Filled to the brim with French colonial charm, Grand-Bassam is a town within the Lagunes region of Côte d'Ivoire. It was the capital city of the French colonies in the region from 1893 until 1896, until the administration was transferred to Bingerville after a severe bout of yellow fever. The city's inhabitants recovered, and it remained a key seaport until the growth of Abidjan from the 1930s, which crushed its golden era. By independence in 1960, Grand-Bassam was little more than a ghost town, until a surge of tourism in the 1970s led to its resettlement. Today, a modest 5,000 people call the town their home, although some areas still remain largely abandoned.

Get in

Grand-Bassam is 45km east of Abidjan and will take about 45 minutes by road.

Bush taxis from the Gare de Bassam in Abidjan are the best option, and will cost about CFA 500. Buses are an alternative, which leave from Gare Routière d'Adjamé in Abidjan for CFA 500.

Grand-Bassam's 1 gare routière (bus station) is in the centre of town, just beside the Place de Paix roundabout.

Get around

The town is largely divided into two distinct halves. On the south side of the Ébrié Lagoon is Ancien Bassam, the old French town where most of the colonial buildings and attractions are located. Nouveau Bassam lies to the north of the lagoon, and grew out of the old servant quarters to become the main business centre. The two are connected by a small bridge.

The main area of town is quite compact, so walking is an easy way of getting around. If you feel like venturing further, you will need to organise a bush taxi.

See

An old French colonial building in Ancien Bassam.

• 1 Cathédrale du Sacré Cœur. Beautiful house of worship built by the French in 1910, renovated in 2004. 
• 2 Centre Céramique, Rue Bouët. After tourism, ceramics and pottery are probably Grand-Bassam's biggest industries. This is both a museum of Ivorian traditional ceramic and a exhibition hall for the works of local artisans. 
• 3 Mairie de Grand-Bassam (Town Hall), Boulevard Gouverneur Angoulvant. Recently restored French colonial building. 
• 4 Musée National du Costume (Costume Museum). Housed in the former French governor's palace, it is a architectural gem with a large outer staircase. There are various displays on the local culture and lifestyles. CFA 1000. 
• 5 Old Post Office. An elegant building that has also been restored recently. No longer functions as a post office. 
• 6 Palais de Justice (Law Courts). Constructed in 1910, it was used as a court until 1954. This building has not been as lucky as the other French colonial structures, and has reportedly decayed beyond repair. 

Do

• 1 Swim at Grand-Bassam Beach. The seaside of Ancien Bassam is extremely popular among Ivorians. On the weekends, the place is packed, however, during the weekdays, you may have it all to yourself. Beware of strong currents and the lack of lifeguards. 
• Canoe trips. Some local boatmen can be arranged to take you up the lagoon to see some tradition fishing amongst the landscape. 
• Fête de l`Abissa (Festival of the Dead). The local N'Zima people honour those who have passed away in this colourful and lively festival, held between late October and early November. 

Buy

Maison des Artistes

The 1 central market (Marché) is located right next to the Place de Paix roundabout. It mostly serves produce, but you may be able to find a souvenir or two. A much better option is the hundreds of 2 artisan stalls that thrive on the western edge of town, lining the road from Abidjan.

Eat

There are some options to eat in and around the central market as described above, as well as the eateries within the hotels. A more interesting alternative is the 1 "marquis" restaurants along the northern, lagoon edge of Ancien Bassam, which serve local and traditional African cuisine. The cost is cheap, hovering between CFA 1900 and 2300.

• 2 Le Quai (Northern edge of Ancien Bassam), ☏ (00225) 0769 6975NOCC, [email protected]. Located in the maquis area, along the shore of the lagoon. Serves both African and French cuisine. CFA 3000-4000. 

• 3 Maquis l'Estomac. Also on the lagoon's shore in Ancien Bassam, serving African food. CFA 2000+. 

Drink

Most hotels and even some restaurants have their own bars that are popular with locals on the weekdays and holidaymakers from Abidjan on the weekend.

• 1 No Limit Nightclub, ☏ 49425560NOCC. Fr-Sa: 9pm-6am. What seems to be the only nightclub in town. Set in a modern building in Nouveau Bassam. 

Sleep

A resort-style hotel, common throughout the town.

• 1 Hotel Boblin la Mer, Route d'Azuretti, ☏ 301418NOCC. Small hotel with the beach on its doorstep. CFA 12000 per night. 

• 2 La Maison de la Lagune, Route d'Azuretti (On the Ancien Bassam side, some 7km west of the town). Small 7 room hotel with internet and a pool. 

• 3 Taverne la Bassamoise, ☏ 2130 1062NOCC, [email protected]. Nice lodge with air-conditioning, a pool and a bit of character. 

Connect

There is a 1 Cyber Cafe on the eastern side of the Place de Paix roundabout. Many of the larger hotels have free Wi-Fi.

Go next

• Abidjan - The country's economic capital is only a short drive down the road.
• Assinie - Another beach town that has grown in popularity among locals in recent years.