Sebaceous gland development and function is regulated by an expanding array of molecules including transcription factors, hormones, retinoids, growth factors, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors. We have reviewed the literature to present the current understanding of sebaceous gland development and physiology, with particular emphasis on the control of the sebaceous gland and its implications for acne management. Interestingly, retinoids, cytokines and nuclear hormone receptors appear to be promising inhibitors of sebum synthesis, thus offering new approaches to acne management.