A review of cosmetic skin delivery

J Cosmet Dermatol. 2021 Jul;20(7):2020-2030. doi: 10.1111/jocd.14037. Epub 2021 Mar 9.

Abstract

Background: Cosmetic Skin Delivery has a very important impact on the action of cosmetics. More and more cosmetic manufacturers are focusing on cosmetic delivery. Meanwhile, it also brings safety issues and the customization of national laws and regulations.

Objectives: This paper reviews the theoretical knowledge about cosmetic skin delivery and evaluation methods.

Methods: An extensive literature search was conducted using PubMed, Web of Science, and other databases for articles on transdermal/skin delivery in cosmetics from 1985 to 2020.

Results: The importance of skin delivery in cosmetics is outlined. The structure of the skin and the skin barrier, including delivery pathways available to cosmetic molecules in three modalities are introduced. The laws and regulations of various countries on nanomaterials for cosmetics are listed. The in vitro skin absorption test methods for cosmetics are briefly reviewed. Furthermore, the prospect of future skin penetration methods for cosmetics is presented.

Conclusions: Currently, various methods to enhance and evaluate cosmetic delivery through skin are available. However, there are no unified domestic and international laws and regulations about evaluation of transdermal delivery. This article provides a new perspective on the development of novel permeation enhancement technologies.

Keywords: chemical analysis; nanotechnology; permeation; skin barrier; spectroscopy.

Publication types

  • Review

MeSH terms

  • Administration, Cutaneous
  • Cosmetics* / adverse effects
  • Humans
  • Nanostructures*
  • Skin / metabolism
  • Skin Absorption

Substances

  • Cosmetics