Background: Lactic acid is a common active ingredient in many topical skincare products; however, measuring its delivery into the skin is challenging due to the presence of a large level of endogenous lactic acid. In this study, matrix-assisted laser desorption/ionization mass spectrometry imaging (MALDI-MSI) was used to quantitatively and qualitatively measure the delivery of lactic acid into the skin from a range of topical skincare products.
Materials and methods: Porcine skin samples were treated with various skincare products containing lactic acid. After 24 h, skin samples were sectioned and treated via H&E staining or prepared for MALDI-MSI using chemical derivatization. Samples were then analyzed by MALDI-MSI imaging to obtain lactic acid distribution in the entire skin section.
Results: Due to the high level of endogenous lactic acid in the skin, a "triple isotope" of lactic acid (L-Lactic acid-13 C3 ), was needed to provide full resolution from the skin's background signal with MALDI-MSI. With this approach, the topically delivered lactic acid could be quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed from a variety of skincare products.
Conclusions: The combination of L-Lactic acid-13 C3 and MALDI-MSI was successfully used to quantitatively and qualitatively measure the topical delivery of lactic acid from a variety of skincare products. This approach could be used in future work to better understand the mode of action of lactic acid as an active ingredient in skincare products.
Keywords: Franz cell; cationic xylene; chemical peels; derivatization; isotope labeling; stratum corneum; trichloroacetic acid.
© 2023 Colgate Palmolive and The Authors. Skin Research and Technology published by John Wiley & Sons Ltd.