Metabolites resulting from the bacterial fermentation of dietary fibers, such as short-chain fatty acids, especially butyrate, play important roles in maintaining gut health and regulating various biological effects in the skin. However, butyrate is underutilized due to its unpleasant odor. To circumvent this organoleptic unfavorable property, phenylalanine butyramide (PBA), a butyrate precursor, has been synthesized and is currently available on the market. We evaluated the inhibition of mushroom tyrosinase by butyrate and PBA through in vitro assays, finding IC50 values of 34.7 mM and 120.3 mM, respectively. Docking calculations using a homology model of human tyrosinase identified a putative binding mode of PBA into the catalytic site. The anti-aging and anti-spot efficacy of topical PBA was evaluated in a randomized, double-blind, parallel-arm, placebo-controlled clinical trial involving 43 women affected by photo-damage. The results of this study showed that PBA significantly improved skin conditions compared to the placebo and was well tolerated. Specifically, PBA demonstrated strong skin depigmenting activity on both UV and brown spots (UV: -12.7% and -9.9%, Bs: -20.8% and -17.7% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001). Moreover, PBA brightened and lightened the skin (ITA°: +12% and 13% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001). Finally, PBA significantly improved skin elasticity (Ua/Uf: +12.4% and +32.3% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.001) and firmness (Uf: -3.2% and -14.9% after 15 and 30 days, respectively, p < 0.01).
Keywords: PBA; anti-aging; depigmentation; hyperpigmentation; phenylalanine butyramide; short-chain fatty acids; tyrosinase.