Occlusive power evaluation of O/W/O multiple emulsions on gelatin support cells

Int J Cosmet Sci. 1997 Apr;19(2):65-73. doi: 10.1046/j.1467-2494.1997.171701.x.

Abstract

The water content of the stratum corneum plays an important role in providing skin suppleness and smoothness. The diffusion of water through the skin is limited primarily by the stratum corneum and the noncornified part of the epidermis has negligible water barrier properties. Multiple emulsions are vesicular systems utilized for the prolonged liberation of active ingredients. The O/W/O multiple emulsion type is employed in cosmetics because its high oil content is able to maintain an occlusive film (barrier) on the skin surface. The objective of this study was to determine the occlusive power of O/W/O multiple emulsions on gelatin support cells. The results showed that occlusive products form a uniform layer on the surface of gelatin after the test, whereas nonocclusive products form two layers: an aqueous phase on the gelatin, and an oil phase above the aqueous phase. Thus, the different occlusive powers are due to the homogeneity of this layer and to its ability to prevent water evaporation.