Purpose: To investigate mechanisms of compound-corneocyte interactions in a combined experimental and theoretical approach.
Materials and methods: Experimental methods are presented to investigate compound-corneocyte interactions in terms of dissolution within water of hydration and protein binding and to quantify the extent of the concurrent mechanisms. Results are presented for three compounds: caffeine, flufenamic acid, and testosterone. Two compartmental stratum corneum models M1 and M2 are formulated based on experimentally determined input parameters describing the affinity to lipid, proteins and water. M1 features a homogeneous protein compartment and considers protein interactions only via intra-corneocyte water. In M2 the protein compartment is sub-divided into a cornified envelope compartment interacting with inter-cellular lipids and a keratin compartment interacting with water.
Results: For the non-protein binding caffeine the impact of the aqueous compartment on stratum corneum partitioning is overestimated but is successfully modeled after introducing a bound water fraction that is non-accessible for compound dissolution. For lipophilic, keratin binding compounds (flufenamic acid, testosterone) only M2 correctly predicts a concentration dependence of stratum corneum partition coefficients.
Conclusions: Lipophilic and hydrophilic compounds interact with corneocytes. Interactions of lipophilic compounds are probably confined to the corneocyte surface. Interactions with intracellular keratin may be limited by their low aqueous solubility.