Mount Everest and Makalu cold injury amputation: 40 years on

High Alt Med Biol. 2014 Apr;15(1):78-83. doi: 10.1089/ham.2013.1069. Epub 2014 Feb 21.

Abstract

Freezing cold injuries (frostbite) of the extremities are a common injury among alpinists participating in high altitude expeditions, particularly during inclement weather conditions. Anecdotally, a digit that has suffered frostbite may be at greater risk to future cold injuries. In this case study, we profile a 62-year-old elite alpinist who suffered multiple digit amputations on both his hands and foot after historic summit attempts on Makalu (8481 m) and Mt. Everest (8848 m) in 1974-1979. We describe the clinical treatment he received at that time, and follow up his case 40 years after the first incidence of frostbite utilizing a noninvasive evaluation of hand and foot function to a cold stress test, including rates of re-warming to both injured and non-injured digits. Finger rates of recovery to the cold stress test were not different (0.8 vs. 1.0°C·min(-1)) except one (injured, left middle finger, distal phalanx; 0.4°C·min(-1)). Toe recovery rates after cold-water immersion were identical between previously injured and non-injured toes (0.2°C·min(-1)). Thermocouple data indicate that this alpinist's previous frostbite injuries may not have significantly altered his digit rates of re-warming during passive recovery compared to his non-injured digits.

Publication types

  • Case Reports

MeSH terms

  • Amputation, Surgical
  • Body Temperature
  • Cold Temperature
  • Fingers / physiopathology*
  • Fingers / surgery
  • Follow-Up Studies
  • Frostbite / physiopathology*
  • Frostbite / surgery
  • Humans
  • Male
  • Middle Aged
  • Mountaineering / injuries*
  • Recovery of Function
  • Stress, Physiological / physiology
  • Thermography
  • Toes / physiopathology*
  • Toes / surgery
  • Young Adult