Multi-omics analysis to evaluate the effects of solar exposure and a broad-spectrum SPF50+ sunscreen on markers of skin barrier function in a skin ecosystem model

Photochem Photobiol. 2024 Jul 25. doi: 10.1111/php.14001. Online ahead of print.

Abstract

Sun exposure induces major skin alterations, but its effects on skin metabolites and lipids remain largely unknown. Using an original reconstructed human epidermis (RHE) model colonized with human microbiota and supplemented with human sebum, we previously showed that a single dose of simulated solar radiation (SSR) significantly impacted the skin metabolome and microbiota. In this article, we further analyzed SSR-induced changes on skin metabolites and lipids in the same RHE model. Among the significantly altered metabolites (log2-fold changes with p ≤ 0.05), we found several natural moisturizing factors (NMFs): amino acids, lactate, glycerol, urocanic acid, pyrrolidone carboxylic acid and derivatives. Analyses of the stratum corneum lipids also showed that SSR induced lower levels of free fatty acids and higher levels of ceramides, cholesterols and its derivatives. An imbalance in NMFs and ceramides combined to an increase of proinflammatory lipids may participate in skin permeability barrier impairment, dehydration and inflammatory reaction to the sun. Our skin model also allowed the evaluation of an innovative ultraviolet/blue light (UV/BL) broad-spectrum sunscreen with a high sun protection factor (SPF50+). We found that using this sunscreen prior to SSR exposure could in part prevent SSR-induced alterations in NMFs and lipids in the skin ecosystem RHE model.

Keywords: ceramides; lipids; natural moisturizing factors; skin model; solar radiation; sunscreen.