Colorful and stunning Rajasthan shines brightly in the desert

January 22, 2019 // By Dave Stamboulis

By Dave Stamboulis
January 22, 2019

Jaipur's main tourist attraction the royal Amer Fort Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Jaipur's royal Amer Fort

India’s Rajasthan conjures up an "Arabian Nights" fantasy; ornate maharaja palaces surrounded by the beautiful Thar Desert. With dazzling structures like the Amer Fort, pictured here, you’d be forgiven for thinking that however striking, this would be a land of sand tones, or perhaps just a monochrome brown. Yet the cities of Rajasthan actually have their own color codes, covering a spectrum of the artist’s palette.

The "pink city" of Jaipur has its buildings repainted annually Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Sweeper in Jaipur, the "Pink City"

Jaipur is known as the "Pink City." In 1876, Maharaja Ram Singh had the center of the city painted pink in order to impress Albert, the Prince of Wales, during his visit to Rajasthan. He wanted to emulate Delhi’s Red Fort, but unable to get red stone, opted instead to mix red soil and lime into a colored dye. Ever since then, local law has dictated that historic buildings be terracotta pink, and they are repainted in this color year after year.

The Hawa Mahal 'Palace of the Winds' stands without a foundation Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Hawa Mahal, the Palace of the Winds

The most notable reddish-pink building is the majestic Hawa Mahal, Palace of the Winds, a palace made from red and pink sandstone. It's unique in that it's the tallest building in the world without a foundation, instead just remaining standing due to being curved. With 953 windows, it originally served as a private ladies' chamber, where royal women could watch public gatherings below without being observed.

The Raj Mandir Theater is a beautiful Art Deco building Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Raj Mandir Cinema

Even the Raj Mandir Cinema is painted pink. It’s a beautiful Art Deco building that dates back to 1976, and is one of India’s most magnificent theaters. It often hosts the premieres of top Hindi films and is a popular stop on the Jaipur tourist circuit.

Overlooking a sea of blue Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

The blues of Jodhpur and Bundi

The city of Jodhpur is known as the "blue city," and the ancient town of Bundi, home to forts, palaces and old stepwells, also has many of its homes painted blue. Seen from above, the towns look like a sea of indigo, and appear quite out of place in the middle of their arid and dusty desert terrain.

The small lanes of Jodhpur are a photographer's dream Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Jodhpur in blue

The small lanes and alleyways that run through these towns are fascinating, and create the perfect backdrop for photographers, with women in colorful saris, vendors and even sacred cows making their way through the narrow passageways.

Brahmin homes or just relief from the heat? Bundi blue Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Life in a blue alley

There are several theories as to why Bundi and Jodhpur are blue. Some say that it’s due to the fact that many of the original residents here were from the Brahmin caste, whose homes were painted blue. Others say that it has more to do with the weather, and that the shaded blue color helped to cool down local homes in a hot desert climate.

Pastel walls and murals in sleepy Bundi Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

The picturesque alleys of Bundi

Still, others say that termites were to blame. Evidently, termites were significant pests here, eating their way through foundations and causing significant structural damage to buildings. In an effort to repel them, locals tried using copper sulphate in with their whitewash, which caused the homes to turn blue. Whatever the real reason, Bundi and Jodhpur are two of Rajasthan’s most photogenic places.

Twilight in romantic Udaipur Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Gleaming Udaipur, the jewel of Rajasthan

While white might not be the most captivating of colors, Udaipur, the "white city," certainly is Rajasthan’s most captivating and romantic spot. Full of dreamy white palaces and historic buildings set on several atmospheric lakes, it has some of India’s most filmed locations, as well as some of its most opulent hotels.

Lake Pichola is just one of several lakes in Rajasthan's gorgeous "lake city" Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Lake Pichola view

The star attraction is the glistening Taj Lake Palace, an elegant five-star resort which sits on an islet in the middle of Lake Pichola. Formerly a summer resort for rulers, it’s made entirely of white marble, which shines spectacularly in the sun and looks as if it's floating in the middle of the lake.

The ornate City Palace is actually made up of eleven small palaces Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Udaipur's regal City Palace

The City Palace is another gleaming white building, dating from the mid-1500s, and built by rulers of the Mewar dynasty. It's actually made up of eleven small palaces with intricate architecture, and overlooks the entire Lake Pichola and the Lake Palace.

Floating posh Taj Lake Palace hotel Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Overlooking the opulent Taj Lake Palace

For the best views of the palaces, lakes and all the glistening white old buildings, head up to the Shri Manshapurna Karni Mata Temple, just a short hike from downtown. It’s a steep climb up to the holy temple, but there are sweeping views of all the surroundings from up here.

Jaisalmer, a truly golden desert city Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Golden hour in Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer perhaps best represents the deserts of Rajasthan. It's known as the "Golden City," famed for its sandstone architecture and beautiful golden and yellow hues when the buildings are hit by the late afternoon or early morning sunlight.

Jaisalmer Fort, one of the world's only "living" forts Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Jaisalmer Fort at dusk

The Jaisalmer Fort is incredibly picturesque, as it towers above everything in the city. It's quite atmospheric at night, when it's lit up with golden lights. It's one of the only "living" forts in the world, with about a quarter of Jaisalmer’s population still residing inside of its walls. The fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site and dates back to 1155.

Bada Bagh's glowing golden cenotaphs at sunset Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Bada Bagh cenotaphs at sunset

As the sun goes down, Jaisalmer is at its most colorful. The cenotaphs of Bada Bagh, located just outside of town, face west and are lit up by the last rays of sunlight in the desert. The empty tombs here were built by a maharaja’s son in remembrance of his father.

Beautiful carved sandstone at Patwon Ji Ki Haveli Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Patwon Ji Ki Haveli, Rajasthan's most ornate haveli

One of the highlights of Jaisalmer are its ancient havelis. Havelis were merchant homes, dating back to the 1800s, and were noted for their intricate architecture, especially the courtyards, balconies and gates. The Patwon Ji Ki Haveli is Rajasthan’s most famous, made entirely of yellow and brown sandstone.

Camel safari; sunset in the Thar Desert Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Camels at sunset, a Thar Desert norm

Of course, to see Jaisalmer at its most golden, head out into the Thar Desert for a camel safari. The sun going down over the sand dunes is one of Rajasthan’s most iconic experiences. Camping out here under the stars is an unforgettable experience, as well.

Bangles for sale, Jodhpur Market Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Bangle market in Jodhpur

In addition to colorful cities, Rajasthan also shows off more than just desert colors through its various arts, crafts and culture. Saris, bangles and turbans here are often more colorful than other spots in India, and any market visit will reveal a bright display of spices, clothing and other luminous wares.

The hypnotic Ghoomar dance Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Twirling Ghoomar dancers

Traditional Rajasthani dances make use of brightly colored costumes, and the ghoomar dance is perhaps the most famous. It comes from the Hindi word ghoomna, which describes the twirling motion made by the dancers as they weave their way in and out of a dance circle.

The locals of Rajasthan are as colorful as the sights Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Bright colors in the desert, dazzling Rajasthan

It may be the desert and it may be dry, but the colors of Rajasthan are as varied and bright as they come, only outshined perhaps by the desert sun.

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About Dave Stamboulis

Dave Stamboulis is a travel writer/photographer based in Bangkok. Born in Greece and growing up in the U.S., Dave discovered Bangkok on a 45,000-kilometer world bicycle trip and moved there in 2005. Dave is the author of Odysseus' Last Stand, which received the Silver Medal for Travel Book of the Year from the Society of American Travel Writers. He is the author of 500 Hidden Secrets to Bangkok, a writer for Lonely Planet, Fodor's and DK Eyewitness Guidebooks, and his travel features and photography appear in publications around the globe.—