Surreal Atacama Desert should be on every adventure bucket list

October 15, 2019 // By Dave Stamboulis

By Dave Stamboulis
October 15, 2019

Surreal Atacama colors Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Otherworldly landscape at the Salar Aguas Calientes

Salt flats, rainbow mountains and turquoise lakes are just part of the surreal landscape you'll find in the Atacama Desert. It's like a hallucinogenic landscape painting run amok, and you'll be pinching yourself to make sure it's indeed real.

Herd of wild vicuñas on the altiplano Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Vicuñas grazing under Miñiques volcano

Vicuñas, wild relatives of llamas, inhabit much of the altiplano, the high plains that cover the Peruvian and Bolivian Andes. They graze on grassy meadows under the high volcanoes, and are able to withstand the extreme cold temperatures found here due to their thick coats which keep warm air trapped close to their bodies.

Contrasting colors in the Moon Valley Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Trekking in the salt mountains in the Valle de Marte

There are some amazing contrasts in the Atacama, such as salt deposits that sit at the base of flaming red mountains, which look like snow in the rarefied air. The salt formations are fragile, and yet solid enough to climb up on, offering great photo ops and views of the surroundings.

Solo on a sand dune Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Licancabur volcano rises above the desert landscape

You might be in a sandy desert, but the Atacama is full of extremely high volcanoes. the most famous of which is the stratovolcano Licancabur. It has a crater lake near its summit and marks the border between Chile and Bolivia.

Atacama's highest peak Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Licancabur volcano glimpsed above the Moon Valley

The volcanoes that ring the Atacama have been worshiped for ages. The Inca empire held them sacred, and these days, mere mortals who are acclimatized can attempt their summits. The highest peak is Licancabur, which is 19,420 feet. It is accessible to novice mountaineers, as it's not a technical climb, and although there can be snow and ice on the summit in some years, what usually turns summiters back is the lack of oxygen.

Blue hour colors, Mars Valley Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Sunset in the Valle de Marte

The Valle de Marte, or Mars Valley, changes colors throughout the day, from soft red tones come sunrise and sunset, to harsh bright orange during the day, with plenty of shades and space in between.

Valle de la Luna overlook Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Desert landscape in the Moon Valley

The Moon Valley is a popular afternoon favorite for photographers, looking out to sand dunes and the arid salt mountains that make up the terrain.

Vicuñas make up most of the population in the high desert Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Vicuñas grazing on the altiplano

Out on the altiplano, you'll usually find more vicuñas than people, as they are now protected and have free reign. A decade ago, they were in danger of being wiped out, used for their meat, but as a protected species they have made a stunning comeback and are a big part of any Atacama experience.

Salt and sand, contrasts in the Atacama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Salt and sand: desert landscape in the Moon Valley

The contrasts of elements and colors in the Atacama is astounding. Abundant salt looks like fresh snow, set in front of rising sand dunes.

Eyes of the desert, freshwater pools are an oasis in the Atacama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Ojos de Salar, freshwater pools in the desert

Despite having almost no rainfall, there are pools of water to be found in the arid Atacama. Ojos de Salar, "the eyes of the Salar," are a pair of freshwater lagoons that are popular for swimming. Although the Atacama Desert sits at over 10,000 feet, days are usually sunny and warm, but the pool water is pretty nippy!

Water flow, Gautin Canyon Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

River flowing out of the Puritama Hot Springs in the Guatin Canyon

You'll even find flowing rivers in the "dry" Atacama, with waterfalls and cold pools to plunge into. The Gautin Canyon is one of the best locales, as the river here eventually leads to a series of eight hot spring pools near the canyon's end.

Desert escape at Explora Atacama Photo courtesy of Explora Atacama

Shady courtyard at Explora Atacama

Life in the Atacama might be harsh, but you don't have to rough it while here. Explora Atacama is a luxury hotel set in the San Pedro de Atacama oasis that focuses on active outdoor experiences, with private top-notch guides leading an array of educational and exhilarating outdoor activities. Those experiences include mountain biking, horseback riding and even mountain climbing.

All alone with a magical desertscape Photo courtesy of Explora Atacama

Exploring the magnificent high desert

While the main sights surrounding San Pedro de Atacama can get crowded, Explora takes guests to places that few others in the area know about, from hidden valleys and rivers to cactus-filled canyons or ridgetops where you'll get to see an Atacama that few others do.

A river valley of one's own Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Trekking to the hot river Rio Blanco

Due to the active volcanoes found in the Atacama Desert, there are an abundance of geysers (in fact, the El Tatio geyser field is one of the world's largest), along with mud pools, hot springs and mineral deposits. Perhaps even more unique is the Rio Blanco, a river that is actually boiling hot in its upper reaches! Trekking here is quite exhilarating, descending from the mountains into a silent valley with herds of vicuñas and rabbit-like viscachas as your only company.

Geysers in the desert Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Watching a geyser erupt along the Rio Blanco

One great route takes guests along the Rio Blanco, a hot river full of geysers and fumaroles, which doesn't see any of the visitor traffic that the more popular El Tatio geyser does. Guides point out plenty of flora and fauna through here, along with providing all sorts of interesting facts and stories about life in the desert.

Hot spring heaven at Puritama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Soaking away in the Puritama Hot Springs

Explora also has their own hot spring, a private pool at the Puritama Springs, which the hotel has taken under its wing and is making a protected natural reserve. You can either drive here, or for the more active, hike through the pristine Gautin Canyon for a few hours, before settling into a hot soak to relieve your weary muscles.

Star gazing in the Atacama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Your own private observatory at Explora Atacama

Explora even features its own in-house observatory, and does nightly stargazing and astronomy sessions. The skies of the Atacama Desert are some of the most light pollution-free on the planet, and on most nights here, there are captivating views of all the constellations of the Southern Hemisphere.

Colorful Salar Aguas Calientes Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

The sublime Salar Aguas Calientes all to oneself

Salt flats are found throughout the Atacama Desert, but the most stunning one sits along a curving mountain road that leads over a high pass into Argentina. The entire area looks like an artist's palette, with rainbow mountains soaring above emerald lagoons and the white salt deposits of the Salar. Here, your preconceptions of a monotonous brown desert will be completely dashed. Just make sure your camera batteries are well-charged.

Endless sand and sky in the Atacama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

Alone atop a sand dune in the Valle de la Luna (Moon Valley)

Despite hordes of visitors descending on tiny San Pedro de Atacama during the high season months of December to February, it's still easy enough to escape the crowds if you're willing to walk a bit. Just get a good map or carry a GPS or phone app like MapsMe and make your way into the canyon of your choosing. While the popular viewing points can be crowded, especially at sunset or golden hour, it's not far to find a sand dune of your own.

Last light in the Atacama Photo courtesy of Dave Stamboulis

The day's last hues in the Atacama

Photographers and nature lovers will be in paradise in the Atacama. From sunrise to sunset (as well as after dark for stargazing), it's one of the most remarkable landscapes on earth. There are endless trails to explore and endless vistas to take in; it's a place that should be on every adventure traveler's bucket list.

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About Dave Stamboulis

Dave Stamboulis is a travel writer/photographer based in Bangkok. Born in Greece and growing up in the U.S., Dave discovered Bangkok on a 45,000-kilometer world bicycle trip and moved there in 2005. Dave is the author of Odysseus' Last Stand, which received the Silver Medal for Travel Book of the Year from the Society of American Travel Writers. He is the author of 500 Hidden Secrets to Bangkok, a writer for Lonely Planet, Fodor's and DK Eyewitness Guidebooks, and his travel features and photography appear in publications around the globe.—