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| name = Spitsbergen
| image_name = Spitsbergen.png
| image_caption = Map of the [[Svalbard]] archipelago, with Spitsbergen emphasized in solid red. Inset shows the islands' place in [[Northern Europe]].
| locator_map =
| native_name =
| location = [[Arctic Ocean]]
| coordinates = {{Coord|78|45|N|16|00|E|type:isle_region:NO_scale:5000000|display=inline,title}}
| archipelago = [[Svalbard]]
| area_km2 = 37673 <!-- | area = {{convertcvt|39044|km2|sqmi|abbr=on}} -->
| rank = 36th
| highest_mount = [[Newtontoppen]]
| elevation_m = 1717 <!-- | elevation = {{convertcvt|1713|m|ft|0|abbr=on|disp=or}} -->
| elevation_footnotes = <ref name="readersnatural">{{Cite book|title=Natural Wonders of the World|url=https://archive.org/details/naturalwondersof00sche|url-access=registration|publisher=Reader's Digest Association, Inc|year=1980|isbn=0-89577-087-3|editor-last=Scheffel|editor-first=Richard L.|location=United States of America|page=[https://archive.org/details/naturalwondersof00sche/page/355 355]|editor-last2=Wernet|editor-first2=Susan J.}}</ref>
| country = Norway
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| ethnic_groups =
}}
'''Spitsbergen''' ({{IPA|no-NO-03|ˈspɪ̀tsˌbærɡn̩|lang}}; formerly known as '''West Spitsbergen'''; [[Norwegian language|Norwegian]]: ''Vest Spitsbergen'' or ''Vestspitsbergen'', {{IPA-no|ˈvɛ̂stˌspɪtsbærɡn̩|uen}}, also sometimes spelled '''Spitzbergen''')<ref>"Of this Spitsbergen archipelago, the main island (the biggest) had the Norwegian name 'Vest Spitsbergen' ('West Spitsbergen' in English).” Umbreit, ''Spitsbergen'' (2009), p. ix.</ref><ref>”Spitsbergen…"Spitsbergen… an Arctic archipelago… comprising the five large islands of West Spitsbergen…”Spitsbergen…". Hugh Chisholm (ed.), ''Encyclopædia Britannica'' (1911), p. 708</ref><ref>”… the Archipelago of Spitsbergen, comprising, with Bear Island… all the islands situated between 10deg. and 35deg. longitude East of Greenwich and between 74deg. and 81 deg. latitude North, especially West Spitsbergen…” ''Treaty concerning the Archipelago of Spitsbergen'' (1920), p. 1.</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Berulfsen|first=Bjarne|title=Norsk Uttaleordbok|url=https://archive.org/details/norskuttaleordbo00beru|url-access=limited|language=no|year=1969|publisher=[[Aschehoug|H. Aschehoug & Co (W Nygaard)]]|location=Oslo|pages=[https://archive.org/details/norskuttaleordbo00beru/page/n150 301], 356}}</ref> is the largest and the only permanently populated [[island]] of the [[Svalbard]] [[archipelago]] in northern [[Norway]].
 
Constituting the westernmost bulk of the archipelago, it borders the [[Arctic Ocean]], the [[Norwegian Sea]], and the [[Greenland Sea]]. Spitsbergen covers an area of {{convertcvt|37673|km2|abbr=on}}, making it the largest island in Norway and the [[List of islands by area|36th- largest in the world]]. The administrative centre is [[Longyearbyen]]. Other settlements, in addition to research outposts, are the Russian mining community of [[Barentsburg]], the research community of [[Ny-Ålesund]], and the mining outpost of [[Sveagruva]]. Spitsbergen was covered in {{convertcvt|21977|km2|abbr=on}} of ice in 1999, which was approximately 58.5% of the island's total area.
 
The island was first used as a [[whaling]] base in the 17th and 18th centuries, after which it was abandoned. [[Coal mining]] started at the end of the 19th century, and several permanent communities were established. The [[Svalbard Treaty]] of 1920 recognized Norwegian [[sovereignty]] and established Svalbard as a [[free economic zone]] and a [[demilitarized zone]].
 
The Norwegian [[Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani|Store Norske]] and the Russian [[Arktikugol]] are the only mining companies at Spitsbergen. Research and tourism have become the important supplementary industries, featuring among others the [[University Centre in Svalbard]] and the [[Svalbard Global Seed Vault]]. No roads connect the settlements; instead snowmobiles, aircraft, and boats serve as local transport. [[Svalbard Airport, Longyear]]byen provides the main point of entry and exit.
 
The island has an [[Arctic climate]], although with significantly higher temperatures than other places at the same latitude. The [[flora of Svalbard|flora]] benefits from the long period of [[midnight sun]], which compensates for the [[polar night]]. Svalbard is a breeding ground for many seabirds, and also supports [[polar bearsbear]]s, [[arctic fox]]es, [[reindeer]] and [[marine mammal]]s. Six national parks protect the largely untouched, yet fragile environment. The island has many [[glacier]]s, mountains, and fjords.
 
==Etymology==
[[File:Barentsz arctic map.jpg|thumb|left|Portion of 1599 map of Arctic exploration by the Dutch explorer Willem Barentsz. Spitsbergen, here mapped for the first time, appears as ''Het Nieuwe Land'' (Dutch for "the New Land"), center-left.]]
 
The Dutch navigator [[Willem Barentsz]] gave Spitsbergen its name when he discovered it in 1596. The name ''Spitsbergen'', meaning "pointed mountains" (from the [[Dutch language|Dutch]] ''spits'' - pointed, ''bergen'' - mountains),<ref>[{{Cite web |url=http://pubs.aina.ucalgary.ca/arctic/Arctic48-3-248.pdf |title=''In Search of Het Behouden Huys: A Survey of the Remains of the House of Willem Barentsz on Novaya Zemlya'', LOUWRENS HACQUEBORD, p. 250] |access-date=10 September 2010 |archive-date=27 March 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090327084815/http://pubs.aina.ucalgary.ca/arctic/Arctic48-3-248.pdf |url-status=dead }}</ref> at first applied both to the main island and to the associated [[archipelago]] [[Svalbard|as a whole]]. In the 17th and 18th centuries, English [[whaling|whalers]] referred to the islands as "Greenland",<ref>Fotherby, (1613) P45 [https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=-Jg9AAAAYAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=spitzbergen&hl=en&ei=HUk_TMWBK4qQjAfqs4GsBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CEoQ6AEwBTgK#v=onepage&q=Greenland&f=false] by Haven, S (1860)</ref> a practice still followed in 1780 and criticized by [[Sigismund Bacstrom]] at that time.<ref>[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=fBoNxZZ7mOoC&dq=spitsbergen&pg=RA1-PA139&dq=spitsbergen&hl=en&ei=WlI_TP3fA42OjAeN16mVBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=5&ved=0CEAQ6AEwBDgK# "Account of a voyage 1780"], ''Philosophical Magazine'', 1799</ref> The "Spitzbergen" spelling was used in English during the 19th century, for instance by Beechey,<ref>[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=MpgFAAAAMAAJ&pg=PA1&dq=spitzbergen&hlpg=en&ei=HUk_TMWBK4qQjAfqs4GsBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=1&ved=0CDIQ6AEwADgK#v=onepage&q&f=falsePA1 Description] Aston Barker, Beechey,</ref> Laing,<ref>[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=vmcNAQAAIAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dqq=spitzbergen&hl=en&ei=ikg_TLXnK9S5jAe1rZiyBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=3&ved=0CDsQ6AEwAg#v=onepage&q&f=false A Voyage] Laing 1822</ref> and the [[Royal Society]].<ref>[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=tvVKAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA659&dq=spitzbergen&hlpg=en&ei=HUk_TMWBK4qQjAfqs4GsBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=8&ved=0CFQQ6AEwBzgK#v=onepage&q=spitzbergen&f=falsePA659 Proceedings vol 12] Royal Society 1863</ref>
 
In 1906 the Arctic explorer [[Martin Conway, 1st Baron Conway of Allington|Sir Martin Conway]] regarded the ''Spitzbergen'' spelling as incorrect; he preferred ''Spitsbergen'', as he noted that the name was Dutch, not German.<ref>"Spitsbergen is the only correct spelling; Spitzbergen is a relatively modern blunder. The name is Dutch, not German. The second S asserts and commemorates the nationality of the discoverer." – Sir Martin Conway, ''No Man's Land'', 1906, p. vii.</ref> This had little effect on British practice.<ref>Lockyer, N [https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=AWgAB3tJTyIC&q=spitzbergen&dq=spitzbergen&hl=en&ei=E0s_TKzWMNy4jAfIxY2SBw&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=9&ved=0CFQQ6AEwCDgo "The Conway expedition to Spitzbergen"], [[Nature (journal)|''Nature'']] (1896)</ref><ref>[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=ir-OAAAAMAAJ&q=spitzbergen&dq=spitzbergen&hl=en&ei=-Es_TI-uAqmN4gau5ZjYCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=6&ved=0CEQQ6AEwBThG British documents on foreign affairs] [[British Foreign Office]] (1908)</ref> In 1920 the international [[Spitsbergen Treaty|treaty]] determining the status of the islands was entitled the "Spitsbergen Treaty". The islands were generally referred to in the United States as "Spitsbergen" from that time,<ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20110824234632/http://www.time.com/time/magazine/article/0,9171,720834,00.html TIME magazine] ''NORWAY: Formal Annexation''</ref> although the spelling "Spitzbergen" also commonly occurred through the 20th century.<ref>
[https://books.google.co.ukcom/books?id=cnINAQAAIAAJ&q=spitzbergen&dq=spitzbergen&hl=en&ei=vUw_TPKYJsqN4gaQsZjCCg&sa=X&oi=book_result&ct=result&resnum=10&ved=0CFYQ6AEwCTha Hansard] (1977)</ref><ref>{{cite book |last= Jackson |first= Gordon |title= The British Whaling Trade |year= 1978 |publisher= Archon|isbn= 0-208-01757-7 }}
</ref><ref>
[https://books.google.com/ngrams/graph?corpus=26&smoothing=3&content=Spitsbergen%2CSpitzbergen&year_end=2019&year_start=1800&direct_url=t1%3B%2CSpitsbergen%3B%2Cc0%3B.t1%3B%2CSpitzbergen%3B%2Cc0 Chart of historical usage trends]
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[[File:Walvisvangst bij de kust van Spitsbergen - Dutch whalers near Spitsbergen (Abraham Storck, 1690).jpg|thumb|Dutch whalers near Spitsbergen by [[Abraham Storck]] (1690)]]
 
The first recorded sighting of the island by a European was by Willem Barentsz, a Dutch explorer who came across it while searching for the [[Northern Sea Route]] in June 1596.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Bt88AAAAIAAJ&q=Spitsbergen+1662+map&pg=PR12|title=No Man's Land|publisher=CUP Archive|year=1982}}</ref> The first good map, with the east coast roughly indicated, appeared in 1623, printed by [[Willem Janszoon Blaeu]]. Around 1660 and 1728, better maps were produced.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.oldworldauctions.com/detail.asp?owa_id=2145238494 |title=ArchivedOld World Auctions - Auction Lot copyDetail |access-date=4 January 2019 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160810020357/https://www.oldworldauctions.com/detail.asp?owa_id=2145238494 |archive-date=10 August 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.antiquemaps.no/itemimages/pama526.jpg |title=Archived copy |access-date=2010-09-15 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110724174207/http://www.antiquemaps.no/itemimages/pama526.jpg |archive-date=24 July 2011 }}</ref>
 
The archipelago may have been known to Russian [[Pomor]] hunters as early as the 14th or 15th century, although solid evidence preceding the 17th century is lacking. Following the English whalers and others in referring to the archipelago as Greenland, they named it [[Grumant]] (Грумант). The name [[Svalbard]] is first mentioned in [[Icelandic sagas]] of the 10th and 11th centuries, but this may have been [[Jan Mayen]].
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[[File:Spitsbergen labelled.png|thumb|left|Map of Spitsbergen]]
Early [[whaling]] expeditions to Svalbard in general and Spitsbergen in particular tended, because of currents and fauna, to cluster on the western coast of Spitsbergen and the islands off shore. Shortly after whaling began (1611), the [[Denmark-NorwayDenmark–Norway|Danish—NorwegianDanish–Norwegian]] crown in 1616 claimed ownership of Jan Mayen and the Spitsbergen islands, as all of Svalbard was then known, but in 1613, the English [[Muscovy Company]] had done the same.
 
The primary and most profitable whaling grounds of this joint-stock company came to be centered on Spitsbergen in the early 17th century, and the company's 1613 Royal Charter from the English Crown granted a monopoly on whaling in Spitsbergen, based on the (erroneous) claim that [[Hugh Willoughby]] had discovered the land in 1553.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Hudson |first=Henry |author-linkauthorlink=Henry Hudson |author2=Georg Michael Asher |title=Henry Hudson the Navigator: The Original Documents in which His Career is Recorded, Collected, Partly Translated, and Annotated |url=https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_IwcVAAAAQAAJ |year=1860 |publisher=Hakluyt Society |location=London |pages=clix–clx }}</ref><ref>Schokkenbroek, Joost C.A. (2008). [http://de.scientificcommons.org/30176828 ''Trying-out: An anatomy of Dutch Whaling and Sealing in the Nineteenth Century, 1815-1885''] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110721023214/http://de.scientificcommons.org/30176828 |date=21 July 2011 }}, p. 27.</ref> Not only had they wrongly assumed a 1553 English voyage had reached the area, but on 27 June 1607, during his first voyage in search of a "northeast passage" on behalf of the company, [[Henry Hudson]] sighted "Newland" (i.e. Spitsbergen), near the mouth of the great bay Hudson later named the Great Indraught ([[Isfjord (Svalbard)|Isfjorden]]). In this way, the English hoped to head off expansion in the region by the Dutch, at the time their major rival.<ref>pp.1-22. Georg Michael Asher,(1860). ''Henry Hudson the Navigator''. Works issued by the Hakluyt Society, 27. {{ISBN|1-4021-9558-3}}.</ref><ref>William Martin Conway, (1906). ''No Man's Land: A History of Spitsbergen from Its Discovery in 1596 to the Beginning of the Scientific Exploration of the Country''. Cambridge, At the University Press.</ref>
Initially, the English tried to drive away competitors, but after disputes with the Dutch (1613–24), they, for the most part, only claimed the bays south of [[Kongsfjorden]].<ref>Schokkenbroek, p. 28.</ref>
 
===Danish expansion===
[[File:Bucentaur i Bellsund 1906-08-17.jpg|thumb|A 1906 photograph of the Norwegian whaling factory ship ''Bucentaur'' in [[Bellsund]], Spitsbergen]]
From 1617 onwards, a Danish-chartered company began sending whaling fleets to Spitsbergen.<ref>pp. 18-20 in Már Jónsson. "Denmark-Norway as a Potential World Power in the Early Seventeenth Century", ''Itinerario'', Volume 33, Issue 02, July 2009, pp 17-27.</ref> This successful expansion by Denmark into the North Atlantic has recently been cited by historians as the first step of the Danish-NorwegianDanish–Norwegian state into overseas colonialism. It eventually built [[Danish colonial empire|a small overseas empire]] of East Indian trade posts, North Atlantic possessions (such as [[Greenland]] and [[Iceland]]), and a small Atlantic trade route between possessions on the [[Guinea Coast]] (in modern [[Ghana]]) and what are now the [[United States Virgin Islands]].<ref>Már Jónsson (2009) passim.,</ref><ref>Pernille Ipsen and Gunlög Fur. "Introduction to Scandinavian Colonialism", ''Itinerario'', Volume 33, Issue 02, July 2009, pp 7-16.</ref>
 
The entire Svalbard archipelago, nominally ruled first by [[Denmark–Norway]], and later the Norwegians (as [[Union between Sweden and Norway]] from 1814 to 1905, independent Norway from 1905), remained a source of riches for fishery and whaling vessels from many nations. The islands also became the launching point for a number of [[Arctic]] explorers, including [[William Edward Parry]], [[Adolf Erik Nordenskiöld]], [[Otto Martin Torell]], [[Alfred Gabriel Nathorst]], [[Roald Amundsen]], and [[Ernest Shackleton]].
 
===Spitsbergen Treaty===
[[File:Hornsund1 (js).jpg|thumb|Hornsund Polish Arctic Station, photographed in 2003]]
Between 1913 and 1920, Spitsbergen was a neutral [[Condominium (international law)|condominium]]. The [[Spitsbergen Treaty]] of 9 February 1920, recognises the full and absolute sovereignty of Norway over all the arctic archipelago of Svalbard.<ref>Knowles, Daniel (2018) Tirpitz:The Life And Death of Germany's Last Great Battleship (Stroud:Fonthill Media)</ref> The exercise of sovereignty is, however, subject to certain stipulations, and not all Norwegian law applies. Originally limited to nine signatory nations, over 40 are now signatories of the treaty. Citizens of any of the signatory countries may settle in the archipelago. Once named Spitsbergen after its largest island, the Svalbard archipelago was made a part of Norway – notNorway—not a dependency – bydependency—by the [[Politics of Svalbard#Svalbard Act|Svalbard Act of 1925]]. Since this date, it has been a region of Norway, with a Norwegian-appointed governor resident at the administrative centre of Longyearbyen. Limitations on the imposition of certain Norwegian laws are outlined in the Spitsbergen Treaty.
 
The largest settlement on Spitsbergen is the Norwegian town of [[Longyearbyen]], while the second-largest settlement is the Russian [[coal-mining]] settlement of [[Barentsburg]]. (This was sold by the Netherlands in 1932 to the Soviet company Arktikugol.) Other settlements on the island include the former Russian mining communities of Grumantbyen and [[Pyramiden]] (abandoned in 1961 and 1998, respectively), a [[Polish Polar Station, Hornsund|Polish research station]] at [[Hornsund]], and the remote northern settlement of [[Ny-Ålesund]].<ref>[http://www.hiddeneurope.co.uk/article_info.php?articles_id=239 "Northern Townships: Spitsbergen"], ''Hidden Europe'' magazine, 10 (September 2006), pp.2-5</ref>
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{{Campaignbox Arctic (1941–1944)}}
 
[[Allies of World War II|Allied soldiers]] were stationed on the island in 1941 to prevent [[Nazi Germany]] from occupying the islands. Norway came under [[OccupationGerman occupation of Norway by Nazi Germany|German occupation]] in 1940. Germany took control of the oilcoal fields and the weather station during this time, although most of the inhabitants on the island were Russian and Germany and the Soviet Union had a [[non-aggression pact]] until 22 June 1941. Once the non-aggression pact was ended, the [[United Kingdom]] and [[Canada]] sent military forces to the island to destroy German installations, both the Soviet coal mines and the German weather station.<ref>[http://www.lonesentry.com/manuals/commandos/spitsbergen.html? "Spitsbergen Operation"], Lone Sentry website</ref>
 
In 1943, the German battleship ''[[German battleship Tirpitz|Tirpitz]]'' and an escort flotilla shelled and destroyed the Allied weather station in [[Operation Zitronella]]. On 6 September, a squadron consisting of ''Tirpitz'', the battleship [[German battleship Scharnhorst|''Scharnhorst'']], and nine destroyers weighed anchor in [[Altenfjord]] and Kåfjord and headed for Spitsbergen, to attack the Allied base. At dawn on 8 September 1943, ''Tirpitz'' and ''Scharnhorst'' opened fire against the two 3-inch guns which comprised the defences of Barentsburg, and the destroyers ran inshore with landing parties, destroying a supply dump and wrecking a landing station. By noon, the hostilities had ended, with the landing parties returning to the ships, along with some prisoners. The German ships returned safely to Altenfjord and Kåfjord on 9 September 1943. This was the last operation for the ''Tirpitz''.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.bismarck-class.dk/tirpitz/history/tiropersizilien.html?title=Operation|title=Tirpitz - The History - Operation "Sizilien"|first=John|last=Asmussen|website=www.bismarck-class.dk}}</ref>
 
=== Postwar ===
On 29 August 1996, [[Vnukovo Airlines Flight 2801]] crashed on the island, killing all 141 people on board.<ref name="ASN">{{Citecite web |last=Ranter |first=Harro |title=29 Aug 1996 |url=httpshttp://aviation-safety.net/database/record.php?id=19960829-0 |titleaccess-date=ASN26 AircraftAugust accident2010 Tupolev Tu-154M RA-85621 Svalbard-Longyearbyen Airport (LYR)|last=Ranter|first=Harro|website=aviation-safety.net |access-datepublisher=2019-08-31[[Aviation Safety Network]]}}</ref>
 
==Government==
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The [[Svalbard Treaty]] of 1920 established full Norwegian sovereignty over Svalbard. All 40 signatory countries of the treaty have the right to conduct commercial activities on the archipelago without discrimination, although all activity is subject to Norwegian legislation. The treaty limits Norway's right to collect taxes to that of financing services on Svalbard. Spitsbergen is a [[demilitarized zone]], as the treaty prohibits the establishment of military installations. The treaty requires Norway to protect the natural environment.<ref name=treaty>{{Cite news|title=Svalbard Treaty |publisher=[[Wikisource]] |url=http://en.wikisource.org/wiki/Svalbard_Treaty |date=9 February 1920 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|title=Svalbard Treaty |publisher=[[Governor of Svalbard]] |url=http://www.sysselmannen.no/hovedEnkel.aspx?m=45301 |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110723003932/http://www.sysselmannen.no/hovedEnkel.aspx?m=45301 |archive-date=23 July 2011 }}</ref><!--All content is sourced in the first, secondary source, with the primary sources provided for the convenience of the reader--> The island is administered by the [[Governor of Svalbard]], who holds the responsibility as both [[county governor (Norway)|county governor]] and [[chief of police]], as well as authority granted from the executive branch.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/en/dep/jd/Documents-and-publications/Reports-to-the-Storting-White-Papers/Reports-to-the-Storting/19992000/report-no-9-to-the-storting-/5-The-administration-of-Svalbard.html?id=456897 |title=Report No. 9 to the Storting (1999–2000): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=5 The administration of Svalbard |date=29 October 1999 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Although Norway is part of the [[European Economic Area]] (EEA) and the [[Schengen Agreement]], Svalbard is not part of the [[Schengen Area]] nor EEA.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.lovdata.no/all/tl-19921127-109-0.html |title=Lov om gjennomføring i norsk rett av hoveddelen i avtale om Det europeiske økonomiske samarbeidsområde (EØS) m.v. (EØS-loven). |publisher=[[Lovdata]] |date=10 August 2007 |language=no |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20001210194300/http://www.lovdata.no/all/tl-19921127-109-0.html |archive-date=10 December 2000 }}</ref>
 
Residents of Spitsbergen do not need visas for Schengen but are prohibited from reaching Svalbard from mainland Norway without them. People without a means of income can be rejected as residents by the governor.<ref name=residence>{{Cite news|title=Entry and residence |publisher=[[Governor of Svalbard]] |url=http://www.sysselmannen.no/hovedEnkel.aspx?m=45270 |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110723003904/http://www.sysselmannen.no/hovedEnkel.aspx?m=45270 |archive-date=23 July 2011 }}</ref> Citizens of any treaty signatory country may visit the island without a visa.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 106</ref> Russia retains a [[List of diplomatic missions of Russia|consulate in Barentsburg]].<ref>{{Cite news|title=Diplomatic and consular missions of Russia |publisher=[[Ministry of Foreign Affairs of Russia]] |url=http://www.mid.ru/zu_r.nsf/strawebeng?OpenView&Start=1&Count=300&Expand=120#120 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref>
 
== Population ==
[[File:Longyearbyen panorama.JPG|thumb|[[Longyearbyen]]]]
In 2009, Spitsbergen had a population of 2,753, of whom 423 were [[Russians|Russian]] or [[Ukrainians|Ukrainian]], 10 were [[PolesPolish people|Polish]] and 322 were non-Norwegians living in Norwegian settlements.<ref name="islandsize">{{cite web|url=http://www.ssb.no/english/subjects/02/befsvalbard_en/tab-2009-10-22-01-en.html |archive-url=https://archive.today/20110728153613/http://www.ssb.no/english/subjects/02/befsvalbard_en/tab-2009-10-22-01-en.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=28 July 2011 |title=Population in the settlements. Svalbard |publisher=[[Statistics Norway]] |date=22 October 2009 |access-date=24 March 2010 }}</ref> The largest non-Norwegian groups in [[Longyearbyen]] in 2005 were from [[Thailand]], [[Sweden]], [[Denmark]], [[Russia]] and [[Germany]].<ref name=demographics>{{cite web|url=http://www.ssb.no/english/subjects/00/00/20/nos_svalbard_en/nos_d330_en/tab/049.html |title=Non-Norwegian population in Longyearbyen, by nationality. Per 1 January. 2004 and 2005. Number of persons |publisher=[[Statistics Norway]] |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Spitsbergen is among the safest places on Earth, with virtually no crime.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 117</ref>
 
[[Longyearbyen]] is the largest settlement on the island, the seat of the governor, and the only incorporated town. It features a hospital, primary and secondary school, university, sports centre with a swimming pool, library, cultural centre, cinema,<ref name=chp10>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/dep/jd/dok/regpubl/stmeld/2008-2009/stmeld-nr-22-2008-2009-/10.html?id=555006 |title=St.meld. nr. 22 (2008–2009): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=10 Longyearbyen og øvrige lokalsamfunn |date=17 April 2009 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> bus transport, hotels, a bank,<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.svalbard.net/reiser/uk/Shops-services-1-280.html |title=Shops/services |publisher=Svalbard Reiseliv |access-date=24 March 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100412182450/http://www.svalbard.net/reiser/uk/Shops-services-1-280.html |archive-date=12 April 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref> and several museums.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.svalbard.net/reiser/uk/Attractions-1-78.html |title=Attractions |publisher=Svalbard Reiseliv |access-date=24 March 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100125232446/http://www.svalbard.net/reiser/uk/Attractions-1-78.html |archive-date=25 January 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The newspaper ''[[Svalbardposten]]'' is published weekly.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 179</ref> Only a small fraction of the mining activity remains at Longyearbyen; instead, workers commute to [[Sveagruva]] (or Svea) where Store Norske operates a mine. Sveagruva is a dorm town, with workers commuting from Longyearbyen on a weekly basis.<ref name=chp10 />
 
Since 2002, [[Longyearbyen Community Council]] has had many of the same responsibilities of a [[municipalities of Norway|municipality]], including utilities, education, cultural facilities, fire department, roads and ports.<ref name=naering>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/dep/jd/dok/regpubl/stmeld/2008-2009/stmeld-nr-22-2008-2009-/9.html?id=554987 |title=St.meld. nr. 22 (2008–2009): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=9 Næringsvirksomhet |date=17 April 2009 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> No care or nursing services are available, nor is welfare payment available. Norwegian residents retain pension and medical rights through their mainland municipalities.<ref>{{Cite news |title=From the cradle, but not to the grave |publisher=[[Statistics Norway]] |url=http://www.ssb.no/this_is_svalbard/velferdstilbud.pdf |access-date=24 March 2010 }}{{dead link|date=July 2019|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}</ref> The hospital is part of [[University Hospital of North Norway]], while the airport is operated by state-owned [[Avinor]]. Ny-Ålesund and Barentsburg are [[company town]]s with all infrastructure owned by Kings Bay and Arktikugol, respectively.<ref name=naering /> Other public offices with presence on Svalbard are the [[Norwegian Directorate of Mining]], the [[Norwegian Polar Institute]], the [[Norwegian Tax Administration]] and the [[Church of Norway]].<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/dep/jd/dok/regpubl/stmeld/2008-2009/stmeld-nr-22-2008-2009-/6.html?id=554944 |title=St.meld. nr. 22 (2008–2009): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=6 Administrasjon |date=17 April 2009 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Svalbard is subordinate [[Nord-Troms District Court]] and [[Hålogaland Court of Appeal]], both located in Tromsø.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.domstol.no/DAtemplates/CourtDetails____2995.aspx?epslanguage=EN |title=Nord-Troms tingrett |publisher=[[Norwegian National Courts Administration]] |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref>
 
[[Ny-Ålesund]] is a permanent settlement based entirely on research. Formerly a mining town, it is still a [[company town]] operated by the Norwegian state-owned [[Kings Bay (company)|Kings Bay]]. While there is some tourism at the village, Norwegian authorities limit the access to the outpost to minimise impact on the scientific work.<ref name=chp10 /> Ny-Ålesund has a winter population of 35 and a summer population of 180.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.kingsbay.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70&Itemid=29 |title=Ny-Ålesund |publisher=[[Kings Bay (company)|Kings Bay]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090310235351/http://www.kingsbay.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=70&Itemid=29 |archive-date=10 March 2009 }}</ref> Poland operates the [[Polish Polar Station]] at [[Hornsund]], with ten permanent residents.<ref name=chp10 />
 
[[Barentsburg]] is the only remaining Russian settlement, after [[Pyramiden]] was abandoned in 1998. A company town, all facilities are owned by Arktikugol, which operates a coal mine. In addition to the mining facilities, Arktikugol has opened a hotel and souvenir shop, catering to tourists taking day trips or hikes from Longyearbyen.<ref name=chp10 /> The village has facilities such as a school, library, sports center, community center, swimming pool, farm and greenhouse. Pyramiden has similar facilities; both are built in typical Soviet style and are the site of the world's two most northerly [[listList of statues of Vladimir Lenin|Lenin statues]] and other [[socialist realism]] artwork.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 194–203</ref>
 
==Economy==
{{Main|Economy of Svalbard}}
 
[[File:Skottehytta-070820.jpg|thumb|Skottehytta in [[Petuniabukta]], Spitsbergen; -[[Adam Mickiewicz University Polar Station|polar base of Adam Mickiewicz University in Poznań, Poland]]]]
The three main industries on Spitsbergen are [[coal mining]], [[tourism]] and [[research]]. In 2007, there were 484 people working in the mining sector, 211 people working in the tourism sector and 111 people working in the education sector. The same year, mining produced a revenue of NOK&nbsp;2,008 million, tourism NOK&nbsp;317 million and research NOK&nbsp;142 million.<ref name=naering /> In 2006, the average income for economically active people was NOK&nbsp;494,700 – 23700—23% higher than on the mainland.<ref name=focus>{{cite web|url=http://www.ssb.no/english/subjects/00/00/20/svalbard_en/ |title=Focus on Svalbard |publisher=[[Statistics Norway]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111113150546/http://www.ssb.no/english/subjects/00/00/20/svalbard_en/ |archive-date=13 November 2011 }}</ref> Almost all housing is owned by the various employers and institutions and rented to their employees; there are only a few privately owned houses, most of which are recreational cabins. Because of this, it is almost impossible to live on Spitsbergen without working for an established institution.<ref name=residence />
 
Since the resettlement of Spitsbergen in the early 20th century, coal mining has been the dominant commercial activity. [[Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani]], a subsidiary of the [[Norwegian Ministry of Trade and Industry]], operates Svea Nord in Sveagruva and Mine 7 in Longyearbyen. The former produced 3.4 million tonnes in 2008, while the latter sends 35% of its output to Longyearbyen Power Station. Since 2007, there has not been any significant mining by the Russian state-owned Arktikugol in Barentsburg. There has previously been some test drilling for petroleum on land, but this did not give results good enough to justify permanent operation. The Norwegian authorities do not allow offshore petroleum drilling activities for environmental reasons, and the land formerly test-drilled on has been protected as nature reserves or national parks.<ref name=naering />
 
Spitsbergen Island coins were issued in 1946, with Russian Cyrillic lettering, in the USSR denomination of 10 and 20 kopecks. Then in 1993, coins were again minted in Russian values of 10, 20, 50, and 100 roubles. Both series have the motto "Arctic coal".
 
[[File:Hillside mine on Svalbard.jpg|thumb|left|Abandoned mine at [[Longyearbyen]]]]
Spitsbergen haswas historically been a base for both [[whaling]] and [[fishing]]. Norway claimed a {{convert|200|NM|adj=on}} [[exclusive economic zone]] (EEZ) around Svalbard in 1977,<ref name=fisheries>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/en/dep/jd/Documents-and-publications/Reports-to-the-Storting-White-Papers/Reports-to-the-Storting/19992000/report-no-9-to-the-storting-/7.html?id=456920 |title=Report No. 9 to the Storting (1999–2000): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=7 Industrial, mining and commercial activities |date=29 October 1999 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Norway retains a restrictive fisheries policy in the zone,<ref name=fisheries /> and the claims are disputed by Russia.<ref name=cia>{{cite web|url=https://www.cia.gov/the-world-factbook/countries/svalbard/ |title=Svalbard |work=[[World Fact Book]] |publisher=[[Central Intelligence Agency]] |date=15 January 2010 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Tourism is focused on the environment and is centered on Longyearbyen. Activities include hiking, kayaking, walks through glacier caves and snow-scooter and dog-sled safaris. Cruise ships generate a significant portion of the traffic, including stops by both offshore vessels and expeditionary cruises starting and ending in Svalbard. Traffic is strongly concentrated between March and August; overnight stays have quintupled from 1991 to 2008, when there were 93,000 guest-nights.<ref name=naering />
 
Research on Svalbard centers on Longyearbyen and Ny-Ålesund, the most accessible areas in the high Arctic. Norway grants permission for any nation to conduct research on Svalbard, resulting in the [[Polish Polar Station]], Indian [[Himadri (research station)|Himadri Station]], and the Chinese [[Arctic Yellow River Station]], plus Russian facilities in Barentsburg.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/en/dep/jd/Documents-and-publications/Reports-to-the-Storting-White-Papers/Reports-to-the-Storting/19992000/report-no-9-to-the-storting-/8.html?id=456921 |title=Report No. 9 to the Storting (1999–2000): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=8 Research and higher education |date=29 October 1999 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> The [[University Centre in Svalbard]] in Longyearbyen offers undergraduate, graduate and postgraduate courses to 350 students in various arctic sciences, particularly [[biology]], [[geology]] and [[geophysics]]. Courses are provided to supplement studies at the mainland universities; there are no tuition fees and courses are held in English, with Norwegian and international students equally represented.<ref name=unis>{{cite web |url=http://www.unis.no/30_ABOUT_UNIS/4010_Root/intro.htm |title=Arctic science for global challenges |publisher=[[University Centre in Svalbard]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120206141732/http://www.unis.no/30_ABOUT_UNIS/4010_Root/intro.htm |archive-date=6 February 2012 }}</ref>
 
The [[Svalbard Global Seed Vault]] is a "[[doomsday event|doomsday]]" [[seedbank]] to store seeds from as many of the world's crop varieties and their botanical wild relatives as possible. A cooperation between the government of Norway and the [[Global Crop Diversity Trust]], the vault is cut into rock near Longyearbyen, keeping it at a natural {{convertcvt|−6|C|0}} and refrigerating the seeds to {{convertcvt|−18|C|0}}.<ref>{{Cite journal|title=Norway Reveals Design of Doomsday' Seed Vault |journal=[[Nature (journal)|Nature]] |volume=445 |issue=7129 |pages=693 |date=15 February 2007|doi=10.1038/445693a |pmid=17301757 |last1=Hopkin |first1=M. |doi-access=free }}</ref><ref>{{Cite news|url=http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/science/nature/7262525.stm |title=Life in the cold store |work=[[BBC News]] |date=26 February 2008 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref>
 
The [[Svalbard Undersea Cable System]] is a {{convert|1440|km|abbradj=on}} [[Optical fiber|fibre optic]] line from Svalbard to [[Harstad]], needed for communicating with [[polar orbit]]ing [[satellite]] through [[Svalbard Satellite Station]] and installations in Ny-Ålesund.<ref>{{Cite journal|url=http://www.telenor.com/telektronikk/volumes/pdf/3.2004/Page_140-152.pdf |title=Technical solution and implementation of the Svalbard fibre cable |last=Gjesteland |first=Eirik |journal=Telektronic |issue=3 |year=2004 |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080410112805/http://www.telenor.com/telektronikk/volumes/pdf/3.2004/Page_140-152.pdf |archive-date=10 April 2008 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|url=http://www.telenor.com/telektronikk/volumes/pdf/3.2004/Page_134-139.pdf |title=Why and how Svalbard got the fibre |last=Skår |first=Rolf |journal=Telektronic |issue=3 |year=2004 |access-date=24 March 2010 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080410112810/http://www.telenor.com/telektronikk/volumes/pdf/3.2004/Page_134-139.pdf |archive-date=10 April 2008 }}</ref>
 
The [[Arctic World Archive]], a huge digital archiving concern run by Norwegian private company [[Piql]] and the state-owned coal-mining company [[Store Norske Spitsbergen Kulkompani]], opened in March 2017.<ref name=vincent>{{cite web | last=Vincent | first=James | title=Keep your data safe from the apocalypse in an Arctic mineshaft | website=The Verge | date=4 April 2017 | url=https://www.theverge.com/2017/4/4/15159148/norway-data-vault-svalberd-mine-storage | access-date=13 August 2020}}</ref> In mid-2020, it acquired its biggest customer in the form of [[GitHub]], a subsidiary of [[Microsoft]].<ref name=lindner>{{cite web | last=Linder | first=Courtney | title=Github Code - Storing Code for the Apocalypse | website=Popular Mechanics | date=15 November 2019 | url=https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/security/a29811351/microsoft-secret-code-vault/ | access-date=13 August 2020}}</ref>
Line 134:
{{Main|Transport in Svalbard}}
 
[[File:MS Horyzont II Isbjornhamna-1.jpg|thumb|Ships, such as MS ''Horyzont'', are a common way for scientists to get around the island.]]
Within Longyearbyen, Barentsburg and Ny-Ålesund, there are road systems, but they do not connect with each other. [[Off-road]] motorized transport is prohibited on bare ground, but [[snowmobilessnowmobile]]s are used extensively during winter – bothwinter—both for commercial and recreational activities. Transport from Longyearbyen to Barentsburg ({{convertcvt|45|km|disp=or|abbr=on}}) and Pyramiden ({{convertcvt|100|km|disp=or|abbr=on}}) is possible by snowmobile during winter, or by ship all year round. All settlements have ports, and Longyearbyen has a bus system.<ref>Umbriet (1997): 63–67</ref>
 
[[Svalbard Airport, Longyear]], located {{convertcvt|3|km|0}} from Longyearbyen, is the only airport offering air transport for the island. [[Scandinavian Airlines]] has daily scheduled services to [[Tromsø]] and [[Oslo]]; there are also irregular charter services to Russia.<ref>{{Cite news |title=Direkteruter |publisher=[[Avinor]] |url=http://www.avinor.no/lufthavn/svalbard/direkteruter |language=no |access-date=9 September 2009 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090302033736/http://www.avinor.no/lufthavn/svalbard/direkteruter |archive-date=2 March 2009 }}</ref> [[Lufttransport]] provides regular corporate charter services from Longyearbyen to [[Ny-Ålesund Airport, Hamnerabben]] and [[Svea Airport]] for Kings Bay and Store Norske; these flights are in general not available to the public.<ref>{{Cite news|title=Charterflygning |publisher=[[Lufttransport]] |url=http://www.lufttransport.no/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=60&Itemid=65 |language=no |access-date=9 September 2009}}</ref> There are [[heliport]]s in Barentsburg and Pyramiden, and helicopters are frequently used by the governor and to a lesser extent the mining company Arktikugol.<ref>{{Cite book|chapter-url=http://www.regjeringen.no/nb/dep/jd/dok/regpubl/stmeld/2008-2009/stmeld-nr-22-2008-2009-/11.html?id=555023 |title=St.meld. nr. 22 (2008–2009): Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Ministry of Justice and the Police]] |chapter=11 Sjø og luft – transport, sikkerhet, redning og beredskap |date=17 April 2009 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref>
 
==Climate==
{{Main|Climate of Svalbard}}
[[File:Mountains (js) 11.jpg|thumb|left|Snow is common throughout the year.]]
The climate of Svalbard is dominated by its high latitude, with the average summer temperature at {{convertcvt|4|C|0}} to {{convertcvt|6|C|0}} and January averages at {{convertcvt|−12|C|0}} to {{convertcvt|−16|C|0}}.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://retro.met.no/observasjoner/svalbard/normaler_for_kommune_2111.html?kommuner |title=Temperaturnormaler for Spitsbergen i perioden 1961 - 1990 |publisher=[[Norwegian Meteorological Institute]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |language=no |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://archive.today/20120717125106/http://retro.met.no/observasjoner/svalbard/normaler_for_kommune_2111.html?kommuner |archive-date=17 July 2012 }}</ref> The [[North Atlantic Current]] moderates Spitsbergens's temperatures, particularly during winter, giving it up to {{convertcvt|20|C-change|0}} higher winter temperature than similar latitudes in Russia and Canada. This keeps the surrounding waters open and navigable most of the year. The interior fjord areas and valleys, sheltered by the mountains, have lesslarger temperature differences than the coast, giving about {{convertcvt|2|C-change|0}} lower summer temperatures and {{convertcvt|3|C-change|0}} higher winter temperatures. On the south of Spitsbergen, the temperature is slightly higher than further north and west. During winter, the temperature difference between south and north is typically {{convertcvt|5|C-change|0}}, while about {{convertcvt|3|C-change|0}} in summer.<ref>Torkilsen (1984): 98–99</ref>
 
Spitsbergen is the meeting place for cold polar air from the north and mild, wet sea air from the south, creating low pressure and changing weather and fast winds, particularly in winter; in January, a strong breeze is registered 17% of the time at [[Isfjord Radio]], but only 1% of the time in July. In summer, particularly away from land, fog is common, with visibility under {{convert|1|km}} registered 20% of the time in July.<ref name=t101 /> Precipitation is frequent but falls in small quantities, typically less than {{convert|400|mm}} annually in western Spitsbergen. More rain falls in the uninhabited east side, where there can be more than {{convert|1000|mm}} annually.<ref name=t101 />
 
==Nature==
Line 150:
 
[[File:Svalbard poppy (Papaver dahlianum).jpg|thumb|[[Svalbard poppy]]]]
Three terrestrial mammalian species inhabit the island: the [[Arctic fox]], the Svalbard [[reindeer]], and accidentally introduced [[southern vole]], which are only found in Grumant.<ref name=vernebrosjyre>{{cite web|url=http://www.dirnat.no/attachment.ap?id=1043 |title=Protected Areas in Svalbard |publisher=[[Norwegian Directorate for Nature Management]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |language=no |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110927000359/http://www.dirnat.no/attachment.ap?id=1043 |archive-date=27 September 2011 }}</ref> Attempts to introduce the [[Arctic hare]] and the [[muskox]] have both failed.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 33</ref> There are fifteen to twenty types of [[marine mammalsmammal]]s, including [[whale]]swhales, [[dolphin]]sdolphins, [[pinniped|seals]], [[walrus]]es, and [[polar bearsbear]]s.<ref name=vernebrosjyre /> [[Arctic charr]] inhabit Linne´vatn and other freshwater lakes on the island.<ref name="Omalley 2019">{{cite journal |doi=10.1002/ece3.4891 |pmid=30847088 |title=Characterizing neutral and adaptive genomic differentiation in a changing climate: The most northerly freshwater fish as a model |journal=Ecology and Evolution |volume=9 |issue=4 |pages=2004–2017 |year=2019 |last1=O'Malley |first1=Kathleen G. |last2=Vaux |first2=Felix |last3=Black |first3=Andrew N. |pmc=6392408 |bibcode=2019EcoEv...9.2004O }}</ref>
 
Polar bears are the iconic symbol of Spitsbergen and one of the main tourist attractions.<ref>Torkildsen (1984): 174</ref> While they are protected, persons going outside settlements are required to carry a [[rifle]] to kill polar bears in [[self-defence]], as a last resort should they attack.<ref name="Umbriet 2005: 132">Umbriet (2005): 132</ref> Spitsbergen shares a common polar bear population with the rest of Svalbard and [[Franz Joseph Land]]. The [[Svalbard reindeer]] (''R. tarandus platyrhynchus'') is a distinct sub-species. While it was previously almost extinct, hunting is permitted for both it and the Arctic fox.<ref name=vernebrosjyre />
 
About thirty types of bird are found on Spitsbergen, most of which are [[migratory bird|migratory]]. The [[Barents Sea]] is among the areas in the world with most [[seabird]]s, with about 20 million counted during late summer. The most common are [[little auk]], [[northern fulmar]], [[thick-billed murre]] and [[black-legged kittiwake]]. Sixteen species are on the [[IUCN Red List]]. Particularly [[Storfjorden, Svalbard|Storfjorden]] and [[Nordvest-Spitsbergen National Park|Nordvest-Spitsbergen]] are important [[breeding ground]] for seabirds. The [[Arctic tern]] has the furthest migration, all the way to [[Antarctica]].<ref name=vernebrosjyre /> Only two songbirds migrate to Spitsbergen to breed: the [[snow bunting]] and the [[northern wheatear]]. [[Rock ptarmigan]] is the only bird to overwinter.<ref>Torkilsen (1984): 162</ref>
 
[[File:Svalbardrein pho.jpg|thumb|left|[[Svalbard reindeer]]]]
Two partial skeletons of ''[[Pliosaurus funkei]]'' from the [[Jurassic]] period were discovered in 2008. It is the largest [[Mesozoic]] [[marine reptile]] ever found – afound—a [[pliosaur]] estimated to be almost {{convertcvt|15|m|abbr=on}} long.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.sciencedaily.com/releases/2008/02/080229101002.htm |title=Enormous Jurassic Sea Predator, Pliosaur, Discovered in Norway |work=[[Science Daily]] |date=29 February 2008 |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref> Svalbard has [[permafrost]] and [[tundra]], with both low, middle and high [[Arctic vegetation]]. 165One hundred and sixty-five species of plants have been found on the archipelago.<ref name=vernebrosjyre /> Only those areas which defrost in the summer have vegetation.<ref>Torkilsen (1984): 144</ref> Vegetation is most abundant in [[Nordenskiöld Land]], around Isfjorden and where effected by [[guano]].<ref>Umbreit (2005): 29–30</ref> While there is little precipitation, giving the island a [[steppe]] climate, plants still have good access to water because the cold climate reduces evaporation.<ref name=t101>Torkilsen (1984): 101</ref><ref name=vernebrosjyre /> The growing season is very short, and may last only a few weeks.<ref>Umbreit (2005): 32</ref>
 
There are [[list of national parks of Norway|six national parks]] on Spitsbergen: [[Indre Wijdefjorden National Park|Indre Wijdefjorden]], [[Nordenskiöld Land National Park|Nordenskiöld Land]], [[Nordre Isfjorden National Park|Nordre Isfjorden Land]], [[Nordvest-Spitsbergen National Park|Nordvest-Spitsbergen]], [[Sassen-Bünsow Land National Park|Sassen-Bünsow Land]] and [[Sør-Spitsbergen National Park|Sør-Spitsbergen]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.dirnat.no/nasjonalparker/ |title=Norges nasjonalparker |publisher=[[Norwegian Directorate for Nature Management]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |language=no |archive-date=14 September 2010 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100914050729/http://www.dirnat.no/nasjonalparker/ |url-status=dead }}</ref> The island also features [[Festningen Geotope Protected Area]]; some of the northeastern coast is part of [[Nordaust-Svalbard Nature Reserve]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://dnweb12.dirnat.no/nbinnsyn/status/NBdata.asp?FyNr=21&Datasett=VV&Overskrift=true&knrSort=true |title=Verneområder i Svalbard sortert på kommuner |publisher=[[Norwegian Directorate for Nature Management]] |access-date=24 March 2010 |language=no |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110824235325/http://dnweb12.dirnat.no/nbinnsyn/status/NBdata.asp?FyNr=21&Datasett=VV&Overskrift=true&knrSort=true |archive-date=24 August 2011 }}</ref> All human traces dating from before 1946 are automatically protected.<ref name="Umbriet 2005: 132"/> Svalbard is on Norway's tentative list for nomination as a [[UNESCO World Heritage Site]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://whc.unesco.org/en/tentativelists/5161/ |title=Svalbard |publisher=[[UNESCO]] |access-date=24 March 2010}}</ref>
 
==See also==
Line 171:
* {{Cite book|title=Svalbards historie |last=Arlov |first=Thor B. |year=1996 |publisher=Aschehoug |location=Oslo |language=no |isbn=82-03-22171-8}}
* {{Cite book|title=Fra company town til folkestyre |author=Arlov, Thor B. and [[Arne O. Holm]] |year=2001 |publisher=Svalbard Samfunnsdrift |location=Longyearbyen |language=no |isbn=82-996168-0-8}}
* {{Cite book|title=Pyramiden: portrett av ein forlaten utopi |last=Fløgstad |first=Kjartan |author-linkauthorlink=Kjartan Fløgstad |year=2007 |publisher=[[Spartacus Books|Spartacus]] |location=Oslo |language=no |isbn=978-82-430-0398-9}}
*{{Cite book|author1=Tjomsland, Audun |author2=Wilsberg, Kjell |name-list-style=amp |year=1995 |title=Braathens SAFE 50 år: Mot alle odds |location=Oslo |isbn=82-990400-1-9}}
* {{Cite book|title=Svalbard: vårt nordligste Norge |author=Torkildsen, Torbjørn|year=1984 |publisher=Forlaget Det Beste |location=Oslo |language=no |isbn=82-7010-167-2|display-authors=etal}}
* {{Cite book|title=Guide to Spitsbergen |last=Umbreit |first=Andreas |year=2005 |publisher=Bradt |location=Bucks |isbn=1-84162-092-0}}
* {{cite book |title=Spitsbergen. Cold Beauty (Photo book) |last=Stange |first=Rolf |year=2011 |url=http://www.spitsbergen-svalbard.com/?p=7536 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20121209004247/http://www.spitsbergen-svalbard.com/?p=7536 |url-status=dead |archive-date=2012-12-09 |publisher=Rolf Stange |language=en, de, nl, no |isbn=978-3-937903-10-1 }}
* {{cite book |title=Spitsbergen – Svalbard. A complete guide around the arctic archipelago |last=Stange |first=Rolf |year=2012 |url=http://www.spitsbergen-svalbard.com/?p=8434 |archive-url=https://archive.today/20121210174913/http://www.spitsbergen-svalbard.com/?p=8434 |url-status=dead |archive-date=2012-12-10 |publisher=Rolf Stange |isbn=978-3-937903-14-9 }}
*{{Cite book|author1=Tjomsland, Audun |author2=Wilsberg, Kjell |name-list-style=amp |year=1995 |title=Braathens SAFE 50 år: Mot alle odds |location=Oslo |isbn=82-990400-1-9}}
* {{Cite book|title=Svalbard: vårt nordligste Norge |author=Torkildsen, Torbjørn|year=1984 |publisher=Forlaget Det Beste |location=Oslo |language=no |isbn=82-7010-167-2|display-authors=etal}}
* {{Cite book|title=Guide to Spitsbergen |last=Umbreit |first=Andreas |year=2005 |publisher=Bradt |location=Bucks |isbn=1-84162-092-0}}
* {{Cite book |last=Van der Brugge |first=Jacob |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nmBoAAAAcAAJ |title=Journael, of Dagh-register, gehouden by seven matrossen, in haer overwinteren op Spitsbergen in Maurits-Bay [1633-34], etc |publisher=G. J. Saeghman |year=1634 |location=Amsterdam |language=Dutch |trans-title=Journal, of Daily-Register, kept by seven sailors, in winter on Spitsbergen in Maurits-Bay [1633-34] |access-date=23 May 2022}}
 
==External links==
Line 182 ⟶ 183:
{{Wiktionary}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20110723004234/http://www.sysselmannen.no/hoved.aspx?m=44365 Governor of Svalbard]
* [http://www.svalbard.net/ Svalbard Tourism] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20060114073302/http://www.svalbard.net/ |date=14 January 2006 }}
 
{{Svalbard topics}}
{{World's largest islands}}
{{Dutch colonies}}
{{Early modern Netherlandish cartography, geography and cosmography}}
{{Authority control}}