1950 French Annapurna expedition: Difference between revisions

Browse history interactively

← Previous edit

Content deleted Content added

VisualWikitext

Revision as of 18:15, 29 January 2021 edit Thincat (talk \| contribs) Autopatrolled, Extended confirmed users, Pending changes reviewers 31,707 edits Other ← Previous edit		Latest revision as of 20:08, 3 May 2024 edit undo Cewbot (talk \| contribs) Bots 6,570,510 edits m Convert Francis de Noyelle to wikilink (The bot operation is completed 2.8% in total)
(25 intermediate revisions by 12 users not shown)
Line 1: {{short description\|First ascent by Maurice Herzog and Louis Lachenal}} {{coord\|28\|35\|43\|N\|83\|49\|32\|E\|display=title\|format=dms\|type:mountain_region:NP}}▼ {{Use British English\|date=April 2018}} {{Use dmy dates\|date=April 2018}} Line 10 ⟶ 9: ==Background== ===Himalayan mountaineering after World War II=== Annapurna is in the [[Eastern Himalaya]] in Nepal, and no one had attempted to climb the mountain before 1950. All pre–[[World War II]] Himalayan mountaineering expeditions had avoided [[Kingdom of Nepal\|Nepal]] and had travelled via [[Tibet (~~1912–51~~1912–1951)\|Tibet]] or [[British Raj\|India]], but in 1949, alarmed that the [[Chinese Communist Party ~~of China~~\|communists]] seemed to be gaining control in [[Republic of China (~~1912–49~~1912–1949)\|China]], Tibet expelled all Chinese officials and closed its borders to foreigners. In October 1950 [[~~Incorporation~~Annexation of Tibet ~~into~~by the People's Republic of China\|Tibet was occupied by the People's Republic of China]] and its borders remained closed indefinitely.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=238}} For over one hundred years Nepal, ruled by the [[Rana dynasty]], had not allowed explorers or mountaineers into the country. However, by 1946 a possible communist-sponsored revolution was even less welcome than Western influence so Nepal opened diplomatic discussions with the United States. Privately hoping to be able to use Nepal as a [[Cold War]] launching point for missiles, the United States welcomed the new situation.{{refn\|group=note\|According ~~Scientific~~to ~~expeditions~~{{harvp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008}} ~~became~~"Nepal's ~~permitted~~first ~~but~~gesture ~~two~~of ~~requests~~a innew ~~1948~~openness ~~from~~to ~~Switzerland~~Western ~~and~~contact ~~Britain~~was ~~for~~made ~~purely~~to ~~mountaineering~~the ~~expeditions~~United ~~were~~States. ~~refused~~The American chargé d'affaires in New Delhi, [[George Robert Merrell\|George R. AMerrell]], ~~year~~traveled ~~later~~to ~~mountaineers~~Kathmandu ~~were~~in ~~allowed~~1946 ifto ~~they~~discuss ~~were~~the ~~accompanying~~establishment ~~scientific~~of ~~travellers.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=238–241}}{{sfnp\|Ward\|Clark\|1992}}~~formal ~~Nepal~~diplomatic ~~first~~relations ~~gave~~between ~~permission~~the ~~for~~United States and Nepal, initiated on a ~~full~~limited ~~mountaineering~~basis ~~expedition~~the ~~for~~following year. Chargé d'affaires Merrell was convinced that the Himalaya was a ~~French~~region ~~attempt~~of vital strategic importance to the United States in ~~1950~~the onemerging ~~[[Dhaulagiri]]~~cold orwar ~~[[Annapurna~~with Ithe ~~Main\|Annapurna]].{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=242–253}}~~Soviet Union and allied Communist nations; in a cable to Washington in January 1947 he argued that 'in an age of rocket warfare,' Tibet might provide a valuable launching pad for American missiles. He may have harbored similar thoughts regarding Nepal; in any case, he worked diligently to broaden contacts between the two countries on both the official and informal levels.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=240}}}} Scientific expeditions became permitted but two requests in 1948 from Switzerland and Britain for purely mountaineering expeditions were refused. A year later mountaineers were allowed if they were accompanying scientific travellers.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=238–241}}{{sfnp\|Ward\|Clark\|1992}} Nepal first gave permission for a full mountaineering expedition for a French attempt in 1950 on [[Dhaulagiri]] or [[Annapurna I Main\|Annapurna]].{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=242–253}} ===French mountaineering=== Alpine mountaineering was immensely popular in France – the [[Fédération Française des clubs alpins et de montagne]] had 31,000 members in 1950 – and the top mountaineers were second only to footballers in their celebrity. Although French mountaineers included some of the leading alpinists in the world,{{refn\|group=note\|According to [[Eric Shipton\|Shipton]] who was distinguishing rock climbing alpinists from Himalayan mountaineers and explorers.{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|loc=In "Introduction" by [[Eric Shipton]], p. 9}}}} they had not ventured much beyond the Alps{{refn\|group=note\|However a French team, including [[Marcel Ichac\|Ichac]], had attempted [[Gasherbrum I]] in 1936.{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|p=32}}}} whereas their British counterparts, with little truly mountainous terrain of their own and less skill on rock faces, had been reconnoitring Himalaya via annewly-independent India ~~that was no longer British~~.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=234–241}}{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|p=16}} After the travails of war a mountaineering success would be good for the public mood.{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|pp=30–31}} ==Planning the expedition== In 1949 the French Alpine Club requested permission from the Nepalese government to carry out a major expedition. The timing turned out to be ideal, and they were given permission to attempt to climb either Dhaulagiri or Annapurna in remote northwestern Nepal. The two mountain ranges, each consisting of many high peaks, are on each side of the great [[Kali Gandaki Gorge]] – Dhaulagiri I and Annapurna I, the highest in each range, are over {{convert\|8000\|m}} and there had been no previous attempts to climb these mountains.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=242}}{{refn\|group=note\|This article refers to the two highest peaks simply as "Dhaulagiri" and "Annapurna" rather than "Dhaulagiri I" and "Annapurna I". None of the other peaks were attempted.}} The region had only been casually explored previously and the mountain heights had been determined by surveyors with precision theodolites based far away in India.{{sfnp\|Terray\|2001\|p=242}} Other nations felt that they should have been given priority but Nepal had favoured France.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=242}}{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|p=46}} In Britain there had been the hope that international rivalry would cease after the war but this was not the view of the French government (who were providing one third of the resources) or of the banking and industrial sponsors, so the enterprise was to be strictly French.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=242–243}} {{Interlanguage link\|Lucien Devies\|fr}}, the most influential person in French mountaineering,{{refn\|group=note\|At the time Devies was president of ''[[:fr:Club alpin français\|Club alpin français]]'', ''[[Fédération française de la montagne et de l'escalade]]'' and ''[[:fr:Groupe de haute montagne\|Groupe de haute montagne]]''.{{sfnp\|Terray\|2001\|pp=232–233}}}} was responsible for gathering together a team and he chose [[Maurice Herzog]], an experienced amateur climber, to be the leader of the expedition.{{refn\|group=note\|According to Roberts there may have been a class prejudice in choosing the leader – an amateur mountaineer was to be preferred over a professional guide.{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|p=30}}}} Accompanying him were to be three younger [[Chamonix]] professional [[mountain guide]]s, [[Louis Lachenal]], [[Lionel Terray]] and [[Gaston Rébuffat]], and two amateurs [[Jean Couzy]] and {{Interlanguage link\|Marcel Schatz\|fr}}. The [[Expedition medicine\|expedition's doctor]] was {{Interlanguage link\|Jacques Oudot\|fr}} and the interpreter and transport officer ~~{{Interlanguage link\|~~[[Francis de Noyelle~~\|fr}}~~]], a diplomat. The only person who had previously been to the Himalaya was [[Marcel Ichac]] who was the expedition's photographer and cinematographer.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=242}}{{refn\|group=note\|name=sherpas\|Herzog listed the sherpas: [[Ang Tharkay]] (sirdar), Dawathondup, Angtsering, Sarki, Foutharkay, Aila, Angdawa and Ajeepa.{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|p=28}}}} The three mountain guides would have preferred an international approach whereas Herzog welcomed climbing for national prestige.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|pp=242–243, 484}} None were paid, not even the professional guides.{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|p=23}} The [[King of Nepal\|Maharajah of Nepal]] appointed G.B. Rana to accompany the expedition for local liaison, translation and general organisation.{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|p=30}} Two days before the expedition departed, Devies gathered the French team<!--even the Nepalese?--> together and required them to swear an oath that they would obey their leader in everything.{{sfnp\|Isserman\|Weaver\|2008\|p=243}} Line 75 ⟶ 78: Couzy was at the camp so he and Schatz were able to assist Herzog, Rébuffat and Lachenal down the Sickle cliff to Camp IV where there were some sherpas sheltering. Meanwhile, Terray had chosen to stay at IVA trying to get the blood circulation back into his feet. Schatz climbed back up to help him descend, also taking the opportunity to recover the still camera from the crevasse shelter – the cine camera he could not find. As the six climbers descended below Camp IV the air temperature rose rapidly and a crack appeared in the snow right under Herzog's roped group. An avalanche swept them down about {{convert\|500\|feet\|order=flip}} until their rope caught on a ridge. Herzog was left dangling upside down with his rope round his neck while his two sherpas were caught on their end of the rope. Descending further in agony Herzog was becoming reconciled to being close to death. Eventually they reached the comparative safety of Camp II. Herzog now felt he had succeeded as leader – even if he now died his companions would be safe and the mountain had been conquered.{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|pp=212–225}} At Camp II Oudot, the ~~physician~~[[Expedition medicine\|expedition's doctor]], injected Herzog and Lachenal to help improve their blood flow. The injections in the arteries of legs and arms were excruciatingly painful and they needed to be repeated for many days afterwards.{{refn\|group=note\|The first injections were of [[novocaine]] and on subsequent days [[acetylcholine]] was injected. These drugs are now known not to help frostbite.{{sfnp\|Greene\|1954\|pp=494–495}}{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|p=21}}}} On 7 June everyone started descending again with Herzog, Lachenal and Rébuffat lying on sledges. Needing to hurry before the monsoon made the Miristi Kola impassable through flooding, they reached Camp I as the sky clouded over and heavy rains started. From here, on 8 June, they wrote a telegram, announcing that Annapurna had been climbed, to be taken by a runner for sending to Devies in Paris. The route to Base Camp was over terrain unsuitable for sledges so Herzog and Lachenal were carried on the backs of sherpas. Once at base, and just at the right time, a large team of porters arrived to transport the whole expedition back to [[Lete, Nepal\|Lete]] on the [[Gandaki River]].{{sfnp\|Herzog\|1954\|pp=226–240}} ==Leaving the mountain== Line 136 ⟶ 139: ===Reactions in the press=== The combination of Rébuffat's disillusioned story and the obvious censorship of Lachenal's writing caused a storm of revisionism in the French press. Frédéric Potet wrote: "The whole world remembers Maurice Herzog, the first biped to have trod, in 1950, atop a mountain of more than 8,000 metres. The others – Rébuffat, Terray, Lachenal? Who were they? Where did they come from? What did they do?" Major newspapers in France and mountaineering magazines worldwide joined the criticism. In the [[American Alpine Journal]]: "I am sorry we have had to wait so long for the true story. All around us we can see the damage done by false information."{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|pp=41, 147, 179–181}}{{sfnp\|Barthe\|1997}}{{refn\|group=note\|Barthe's review in [[American Alpine Journal\|AAJ]] provides a good brief summary of the situation.{{sfnp\|Barthe\|1997}}}} Line 149 ⟶ 152: Roberts' book about the controversy has itself also been criticised. In reviewing ''True Summit'' the American Alpine Journal said "David Roberts has none of the Himalayan expedition experience necessary to put the events in context."{{sfnp\|Palais\|2001}} ==Summit Controversy== ~~==Did they really reach the summit?==~~ Even as far back as 1950 a small number of people doubted the expedition had reached the summit. One of the problems was the famous "summit photo" ''(see image at head of article)'' that seems to show the ground sloping up higher than Herzog's feet. Also, after Lachenal's death it was claimed he used to say he had no memory of the summit, or another version was that he had once said had not got there at all. Even fifty years later there were doubts from a small minority. Herzog had written there was a fierce wind at the summit but in the photo he seems to be having to hold the flag out straight. The only summit photograph taken by Herzog, one of Lachenal, he kept hidden until after Lachenal's death. This blurred image shows him sitting leaning against a rock not looking at all victorious.{{sfnp\|Roberts\|2001\|pp=216–218}} Line 167 ⟶ 170: ===Works cited=== * {{cite news\|last1=Barcott\|first1=Bruce\|title=No Room at the Top\|url=https://archive.nytimes.com/www.nytimes.com/books/00/06/04/reviews/000604.04barc.html\|work~~=archive.nytimes.com\|publisher~~=[[The New York Times]]\|date=4 June 2000}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Barthe\|first1=Patrick\|title=Book review: Carnets du Vertige\|journal=[[American Alpine Journal]] \|date=1997\|page=365\|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199736400/Carnets-du-Vertige}} * {{cite web\|last1=Ballu\|first1=Yves\|title=Herzog et Lachenal sont-ils parvenus au sommet de l'Annapurna? – Kairn\|url=http://kairn.com/herzog-et-lachenal-sont-ils-parvenus-au-sommet-de-lannapurnaij/\|website=Kairn\|language=fr-FR\|date=26 December 2012}} * {{cite book\|last1=Bonington\|first1=Chris\|author1-link=Chris Bonington\|title=Annapurna South Face\|date=1971\|publisher=Book Club Associates}} * {{cite web\|last1=Cusick\|first1=James\|title=Maurice Herzog: Mountaineer who became one of the first two men to ascend Annapurna\|url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/maurice-herzog-mountaineer-who-became-one-of-the-first-two-men-to-ascend-annapurna-8418156.html \|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180614074715/https://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/maurice-herzog-mountaineer-who-became-one-of-the-first-two-men-to-ascend-annapurna-8418156.html\|archive-date=14 June 2018 \|url-status=live\|website=The Independent\|date=14 December 2012}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Day\|first1=Henry\|title=Annapurna Anniversaries\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=2010\|pages=181–189\|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_2010-11_files/AJ%202010-11%20179-189%20Day%20Annapurna.pdf}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Greene\|first1=Raymond\|title=High Altitude Medecine\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=14 July 1954\|volume=59\|issue=289\|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1954_files/AJ59%201954%20493-498%20Correspondence.pdf}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Harper\|first1=Sue\|title=Other Annapurnas\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=1999\|volume=104\|issue=348\|pages=170–174\|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1999_files/AJ%201999%20170-174%20Harper%20Annapurnas.pdf}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Annapurna\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=1951a\|volume=58\|issue=282\|pages=155–168 \|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1951_files/AJ58%201951%20155-168%20Herzog%20Annapurna.pdf~~\|ref={{sfnref\|Herzog\|1951a}}~~}} * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Annapurna\|date=1954\|publisher=Reprint Society \|translator1-first=Nea\|translator1-last=Morin\|translator1-link=Nea Morin \|translator2-first=Janet\|translator2-last=Adam Smith\|translator2-link=Janet Adam Smith }} Introduction by [[Eric Shipton\|Shipton, Eric]]. * {{cite web\|last1=Horrell\|first1=Mark\|title=An early history of the 8000m peaks: the first ascent of Annapurna\|url=http://www.markhorrell.com/blog/2016/an-early-history-of-the-8000m-peaks-the-first-ascent-of-annapurna/\|website=Footsteps on the Mountain\|publisher=Mark Horrell\|date=30 March 2016}} * {{cite book\|last1=Isserman\|first1=Maurice\|author1-link=Maurice Isserman\|last2=Weaver\|first2=Stewart\|title=Fallen Giants : A History of Himalayan Mountaineering from the Age of Empire to the Age of Extremes\|date=2008\|publisher=Yale University Press\|location=New Haven\|isbn=~~9780300115017\|edition=1~~978-0300115017\|chapter=The Golden Age Postponed\|url-access=registration\|url=https://archive.org/details/fallengiantshist00isse}} * {{cite web\|title=Kleber 1950\|url=https://agricultural.klebertyres.co.uk/All-about-the-KLEBER-brand/The-KLEBER-agricultural-story/1950\|publisher=Kléber\|author=Kléber\|~~archiveurl~~archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180325094203/https://agricultural.klebertyres.co.uk/All-about-the-KLEBER-brand/The-KLEBER-agricultural-story/1950\|year=1950\|~~archivedate~~archive-date=25 March 2018\|url-status = live}} * {{cite web\|language=fr\|url=http://www.parismatch.com/Actu/Medias/L-Himalaya-a-sauve-Paris-Match-par-Patrick-Mahe-138308\|first=Patrick\|last=Mahé\|title=L'Himalaya a sauvé Paris Match\|publisher=Paris Match\|date=26 March 2009}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Palais\|first1=Robert\|title=Book review: True Summit\|journal=American Alpine Journal\|date=2001\|page=420\|url=http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12200142001/True-Summit-What-Really-Happened-on-the-Legendary-Ascent-of-Annapurna}} * {{cite book\|last1=Roberts\|first1=David\|author1-link=David Roberts (climber)\|title=True summit : what really happened on Maurice Herzog's first legendary ascent of Annapurna\|date=2001\|publisher=Constable\|location=London\|isbn=978-1-84119-339-7}} * {{cite web\|title=Maurice Herzog et l'Annapurna : un exploit confisqué?\|date=14 December 2012\|author=RTL\|url=http://www.rtl.fr/actu/maurice-herzog-et-l-annapurna-un-exploit-confisque-7755848007\|website=RTL.fr\|~~publisher~~archive-url=~~RTL\|language=fr-FR}}~~ https://web.archive.org/web/20180404193015/http://www.rtl.fr/actu/maurice-herzog-et-l-annapurna-un-exploit-confisque-7755848007\|archive-date=4 April 2018\|publisher=RTL\|language=fr-FR}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Soroka\|first1=Waldemar\|translator1-last=Doubrawa-Cochlin\|translator1-first=Ingeborga\|title=Annapuma North..West Ridge\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=1998\|url=https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1998_files/AJ%201998%2089-92%20Soroka%20Annapurna.pdf}} * {{cite book\|last1=Terray\|first1=Lionel\|title=Conquistadors of the useless: from the Alps to Annapurna\|date=2001\|publisher=Baton Wicks\|location=London\|isbn=~~9781898573388~~978-1898573388\|chapter=Annapurna\|pages=232–306}} {{cite journal\|last1=Ward\|first1=M. P.\|last2=Clark\|first2=P. K.\|title=Everest, 1951: Cartographic and Photographic Evidence of a New Route from Nepal\|journal=The Geographical Journal\|date=March 1992\|volume=158\|issue=1\|pages=47–56\|doi=10.2307/3060016\|jstor=3060016}} {{cite journal\|last1=Ward\|first1=~~Michael~~M. P.\|last2=Clark\|first2=P. K.\|title=~~The~~Everest, ~~Great Angtharkay~~1951: ACartographic and Photographic Evidence of a New Route from ~~Tribute~~Nepal\|journal=~~Alpine~~The Geographical Journal\|date=~~1996~~March 1992\|volume=158\|issue=1\|pages=~~182–186~~47–56\|~~url~~doi=~~http://www.alpinejournal~~10.~~org.uk~~2307/~~Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20182-186%20Ward%20Angtharkay.pdf~~3060016\|jstor=3060016}} * {{cite journal\|last1=Ward\|first1=Michael\|title=The Great Angtharkay: A Tribute\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=1996\|pages=182–186\|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1996_files/AJ%201996%20182-186%20Ward%20Angtharkay.pdf}} * {{cite web\|author=anon\|title=Annapurna 1950, chronologie de l'affaire -– Summit Day\|url=https://summit-day.com/annapurna-1950-chronologie-de-laffaire/\|website=Summit Day\|language=fr-FR\|date=11 January 2016}} For dates camps were established. ==Other accounts== Line 198 ⟶ 202: ===First-hand accounts of the expedition=== In chronological order of first (French) publication. * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Annapurna, premier 8000\|date=1951\|publisher=[[:fr:Arthaud (maison d'édition)\|Éditions Arthaud]]\|language=fr}} ** {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Annapurna. Conquest of the First 8000-Metre Peak (26,493ft)\|date=1952\|publisher=Jonathan Cape\|location=London\|translator1-first=Nea\|translator1-last=Morin\|translator1-link=Nea Morin \|translator2-first=Janet\|translator2-last=Adam Smith\|translator2-link=Janet Adam Smith\|ref=none}} Introduction by [[Eric Shipton\|Shipton, Eric]]. * {{cite journal\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Annapurna\|journal=Alpine Journal\|date=November 1951\|volume=58\|issue=282\|pages=155–168 \|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1951_files/AJ58%201951%20155-168%20Herzog%20Annapurna.pdf\|ref=none}} * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|last2=Ichac\|first2=Marcel\|title=Regards vers l'Annapurna\|date=1951\|publisher=Arthaud\|language=fr}} * {{cite book\|last1=Lachenal\|first1=Louis\|editor1-last= Herzog\|editor1-first=Gérard\|title=Carnets du vertige\|year=1956\|publisher=Pierre Horay\|location=Paris\|language=fr}} No English translation. * {{cite book\|last1=Terray\|first1=Lionel\|title=Les conquérants de l'inutile. Des Alpes à l'Annapurna\|date=1961\|publisher=[[:fr:Éditions Gallimard\|Éditions Gallimard]]\|location=Paris\|language=fr}} ** {{cite book\|last=Terray\|first=Lionel\|translator1-first=Geoffrey\|translator1-last=Sutton\|title=Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna\|date=1963\|publisher=[[Victor Gollancz Ltd\|Gollancz]]\|ref=none}} * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Les grandes aventures de l'Himalaya. Annapurna, Nanga Parbat, Chogori, K2\|date=1981\|chapter=Un autre regard\|publisher=JC Lattes\|location=Grenoble\|language=fr}} * {{cite book\|last1=Ballu\|first1=Yves\|title=Gaston Rébuffat : une vie pour la montagne\|date=1996\|publisher=[[:fr:Hoëbeke\|Éditions Hoëbeke]]\|location=Paris\|isbn=978-2842300159\|language=French}} Not first-hand but a posthumous biography, published with Rébuffat's approval. * {{cite book\|last1=Lachenal\|first1=Louis\|title=Carnets du vertige\|year=1996\|publisher=[[:fr:Éditions Guerin\|Michel Guérin]]\|language=fr}} Unexpurgated version. * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=L'autre Annapurna\|date=1998\|publisher=[[:fr:Éditions Robert Laffont\|Éditions Robert Laffont]]\|location=Paris\|isbn=978-2221087138\|language=fr}} * {{cite book\|last1=Herzog\|first1=Maurice\|title=Renaître: une autre vie après l'Annapurna\|date=2007\|publisher=Jacob-Duvernet\|location=Paris\|isbn=~~9782847241624~~978-2847241624\|language=fr\|ref=none}} ===Other=== * {{cite news\|last1=Buffet\|first1=Charlie\|title=Maurice Herzog, 81 ans, héros de l'Annapurna, cultive depuis 1950 la légende qui lui a ouvert une vie d'honneurs et de pouvoir. Droits d'hauteur\|url=http://www.liberation.fr/portrait/2000/06/07/maurice-herzog-81-ans-heros-de-l-annapurna-cultive-depuis-1950-la-legende-qui-lui-a-ouvert-une-vie-d_326793\|work=Libération.fr\|date=7 June 2000\|language=fr\|ref=none\|access-date=4 April 2018\|archive-date=4 April 2018\|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180404193226/http://www.liberation.fr/portrait/2000/06/07/maurice-herzog-81-ans-heros-de-l-annapurna-cultive-depuis-1950-la-legende-qui-lui-a-ouvert-une-vie-d_326793\|url-status=dead}} * {{cite web\|last1=Douglas\|first1=Ed\|title=Maurice Herzog obituary\|url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2012/dec/14/maurice-herzog\|website=Guardian\|date=14 December 2012\|ref=none}} * {{cite book\|last1=Messner\|first1=Reinhold\|title=Annapurna: 50 years of expeditions in the death zone\|date=2000\|publisher=Mountaineers Book\|location=Seattle\|isbn=~~9780898867381~~978-0898867381\|ref=none}} * {{cite journal\|title=Victoire sur l'Himalaya\|journal=Paris Match\|date=19 August 1950\|pages=12–27\|ref=none}} {{authority control}} ▲{{coord\|28\|35\|43\|N\|83\|49\|32\|E\|display=title\|format=dms\|type:mountain_region:NP}} {{DEFAULTSORT:Annapurna expedition, 1950 French}} [[Category:Expeditions from France\|Annapurna 1950]]