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{{Short description|Historic fortress off the coast of Veracruz, Mexico}}
{{refimprove|date=February 2021}}
{{coord|19|12|33|N|96|07|53|W|region:MX_type:landmark_source:dewiki|display=title}}
{{Infobox military installation
| name = Fortaleza de San Juan de Ulúa
| native_name = Fortress of San Juan de Ulúa
| partof =
| location = [[Veracruz (city)|Veracruz]], [[Veracruz]], [[Mexico]]
| image = Vista San Juan de Ulúa 05 = Tvrđava u Veracruzu.JPGjpg
| image_size = 300px
| caption = View of the fortress facilities
| type = [[Fortification|Fortress]]
| coordinates = {{coord|19|12|33|N|96|7|53|W|type:landmark|display=inline}}
| image_map =
| image_map_caption =
| controlledby = [[Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia]]
| open_to_public = Yes
| built = 1535
| used =
| builder = [[Spanish Empire]]
| materials = Stone
| height =
| condition = Deteriorated
| battles = [[Spanish attempts to reconquer Mexico]] <br> [[Mexican-AmericanMexican–American War]] <br> [[Second French intervention in Mexico|French intervention in Mexico]]
| past_commanders = Francisco Luján <small>(1568)</small> <br> [[José Coppinger]] <small>(1825)</small> <br> [[Mariano Arista]] <small>(1838)</small> <br> Juan Morales <small>(1847)</small>
| website = [http://www.sanjuandeulua.com.mx/ Official website]
}}
 
[[File:Plan du fort de Saint Jean d'Ulloa et vue panoramique 1838.jpg|thumb|Plan and panoramic view of the fort in 1838 from French map during the war between France and Mexico]]
 
'''San Juan de Ulúa''', alsonow known as '''Castle of San Juan de Ulúa''', is a large complex of [[fortresses]], prisons and one former palace on an island of the same name in the [[Gulf of Mexico]] overlooking the [[seaport]] of [[Veracruz (city)|Veracruz]], Mexico. [[Juan de Grijalva]]'s 1518 expedition named the island. On [[EasterMarch Sunday]]30, 1519, [[Hernan Cortés]] met with Tendile and Pitalpitoque, emissaries from [[Moctezuma II]]'s [[Aztec Empire]].<ref name=Diaz>Diaz, B., 1963, The Conquest of New Spain, London: Penguin Books, {{ISBN|0140441239}} {{rp|89}} {{rp|36,38,89}}</ref>
 
It was built between 1535 and 1769.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://fortalezas.org/index.php?ct=fortaleza&id_fortaleza=975|title=FORTALEZA DE SAN JUAN DE ULÚA|website=fortalezas.org|language=Spanish}}</ref> There is a local museum of the fortress, inaugurated in 1984.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.ilam.org/index.php/es/museo?id=2562|title=Museo Local Fuerte de San Juan de Ulúa (SJU) Veracruz, México|website=ILAM Foundation|language=Spanish}}</ref>
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[[File:CastilloSanJuandeUlua.jpg|thumb|The fortress overlooking the Port of Veracruz]]
 
The fort was constructedbuilt during the period of [[New Spain|Spanish colonial rule]], with construction being initiatedbegun in 1535 by the [[List of viceroys of New Spain|Spanish authorities]]. The boundaries of the fort were repeatedly expanded several times during its existence. In 1568, the [[Spanish Army|Spanish forces]] stationed on theThe fortress succeededsaw inno trappingaction a [[Privateer|privateer]] fleet underafter the command of [[John Hawkins (naval commander)|John Hawkins]] in the fortress's harbour. The commanders1560s under Hawkins included hisSpanish cousincontrol, thebecoming youngan [[Francisisolated Drake]]. Although Hawkins and Drake both managed to escape the organized entrapment on their respective [[Warship|warships]], manyoutpost of the trappedSpanish sailorsArmy aboardin theNew ships were killed by Spanish cannon fireSpain. Several ofIn the privateer warships present were sunk1580s, and several more were damaged beyond repair, and [[Scuttling|scuttledBattista Antonelli]] alongredesigned the Mexicanfortress coastline.during Thea shipwrecked sailors were abandoned by Hawkins,stopover whoen choseroute to cut his losses and venture elsewhere on the [[SpanishGulf Mainof Fonseca]].<ref>{{Cite Appletons'|wstitle=Antonelli, Juan|year=1900}}</ref>
 
It saw no action during the [[Mexican War of Independence]], being too far away from the main areas of fighting to see any real action.
Trapped, and with no rescue in sight, these sailors ventured further inland, where they eventually settled among the local population and integrated into the [[Mexicans|Mexican populace]] at large, becoming part of the [[Immigration to Mexico|European diaspora in Mexico]]. Hawkins, along with Drake, continued his attacks on Spanish shipping [[Spanish treasure fleet|transporting valuable cargo]] such as [[Gold|gold]] and [[Silver|silver]] from [[Spanish Empire|Spanish colonies]] in [[Latin America]] to [[Habsburg Spain|Spain]]. The attack by the Spaniards at San Juan de Ulúa is credited as marking Drake's first feelings of intense hatred of [[Anti-Catholicism|both Catholicism]] and [[Hispanophobia|the Spanish]], which would both go on to have an influence on his later career. After the repulse of the privateers, the fortress saw no further action under Spanish control, becoming an isolated outpost of the Spanish Army in New Spain. It saw no action during the [[Mexican War of Independence]], being too far away from the main areas of fighting to see any real action.
 
=== Privateer encounter ===
The fort once held the icon of the Virgin of the Stair / La Virgen de Escalera, whose little chapel entrance was under the stone staircase leading to one of the towers of the fort. Whenever ships arrived into the bay, this marian icon is raised to the top tower to greet the passengers from the boats, and from whence cannons would be fired in her honor. The Virgen de Escalera was known to these travellers and to the surrounding villages in Veracruz. This original icon has been missing for hundreds of years, its memory lost, ever since Mexico gained independence and the [[Manila Galleon]] trade linking [[Veracruz]] with [[Habana]], [[Puerto Rico]], [[Portobelo]], [[Callao]], [[San Blas]] de [[Nayarit]], the shipyards of [[Barra de Navidad]] in [[Colima]], [[Acapulco]], the shipyards of [[Cavite]] La Punta / Cavite El Viejo, and eventually, [[Manila]], was broken.
 
In 1568, the [[Spanish Army|Spanish forces]] stationed on the fortress succeeded in trapping a [[privateer]] fleet under the command of [[John Hawkins (naval commander)|John Hawkins]] in the fortress's harbor. The commanders under Hawkins included his cousin, the young [[Francis Drake]]. Although Hawkins and Drake both managed to escape the organized entrapment on their respective [[Warship|warships]], many of the trapped sailors aboard the ships were killed by Spanish cannon fire. Several of the privateer warships present were sunk, and several more were damaged beyond repair, and [[Scuttling|scuttled]] along the Mexican coastline. The shipwrecked sailors were abandoned by Hawkins, who chose to cut his losses and venture elsewhere on the [[Spanish Main]].
A near replica (some dispute as the true statue) of the Virgen de Escalera was brought by the [[Roxas]] family (ancestors of the [[Zobel de Ayala]] clan), across the Camino de Virrey to Mexico City and to the port of Acapulco in [[Guerrero]], and sailed to [[Manila]], [[Philippines]]. In the mid-1800s, one of the Roxas brothers donated the icon from their family farm house to the little known parish of [[Calatagan]] (where the same family owned a gigantic encomienda, the Hacienda Bigaa). The Virgen de Escalera in Calatagan is still venerated, loved, and fiestas are held in her honor, to this day.
 
Trapped, and with no rescue in sight, these sailors ventured further inland, where they eventually settled among the local population and integrated into the [[Mexicans|Mexican populace]] at large, becoming part of the [[Immigration to Mexico|European diaspora in Mexico]]. Hawkins, along with Drake, continued his attacks on Spanish shipping of [[Spanish treasure fleet|transporting valuable cargo]] such as [[Gold|gold]] and [[Silver|silver]] from [[Spanish Empire|Spanish colonies]] in [[Latin America]] to [[Habsburg Spain|Spain]]. The attack by the Spaniards at San Juan de Ulúa is credited as marking Drake's first feelings of intense hatred of both [[Anti-Catholicism|both Catholicism]] and the [[Hispanophobia|the Spanish]], which would both go on to have an influence on his later career. After the repulse of the privateers, the fortress saw no further action under Spanish control, becoming an isolated outpost of the Spanish Army in New Spain. It saw no action during the [[Mexican War of Independence]], being too far away from the main areas of fighting to see any real action.
 
==The Virgin of the Staircase on top of the Port of Veracruz==
 
The fort once held the icon of the VirginLa ofVirgen thede StairLa /Escalera La(Virgin Virgenof dethe EscaleraStaircase), whose little chapel entrance was under the stone staircase leading to onethe ofBaluarte thede towersSan ofCrispin fort, near the fort.chancery, ammunition room, and treasury room. Whenever ships arrived into the bay, this marianMarian icon iswas raised to the top tower to greet the passengers from the boatsthem, and from whence cannonsthey would befire firedcannons in her honor. The Virgen de La Escalera was known to these travellerstravelers and to the surrounding villages in Veracruz. ThisThe original icon has been missing for hundreds of years, its memory lost, ever since Mexico gained independence as this restricted entrance into the walled citadel and broke the [[Manila Galleongalleon]] trade linking [[Veracruz]] with [[HabanaHavana]], [[Puerto Rico]], [[Portobelo, Colón|Portobelo]], [[Callao]], [[San Blas]], deNayarit|San [[NayaritBlas]], the shipyards of [[Barra de Navidad]] in [[Colima]], [[Acapulco]], the shipyards of [[Cavite City|Cavite]] La Punta / Cavite El Viejo, and eventually, [[Manila]], was broken.
 
A near replica (some dispute as the true statue) of the Virgen de La Escalera was brought by the Antonio Fernandez de Roxas family (ancestors of the [[Zobel de Ayala]] clan also descended from the Zangroniz clan of railroad barons), via the Road of the Viceroys / El Camino de los Virreyes to Mexico City and then down to the [[Pacific]] port of [[Acapulco]] in [[Guerrero]], and sailed to Manila centuries ago. In the mid-1800s, one of the Roxas descendants of Don Jose Bonifacio Roxas donated the icon from their family farm house in [[Calatagan]] where they owned a gigantic [[encomienda]], the Hacienda Bigaa, to the nearby town of [[Nasugbu]] in the province of [[Batangas]] (they once owned parts of this town as well). The Virgen de Escalera is still venerated, loved, and fiestas are held in her honor, to this day, every year on the 2nd of December. Her feast day is known for the crowds of [[Filipinos]] that come to offer thanks and to pray the rosary, as well as watch a bull run called Fiesta De Los Toros, and another one, called Parada de Los Toros, highlighting cows and water buffalo and carromatas (a type of farm buggy or cart) festooned with flowers in a colorful parade, following the blessing of the farm animals.
 
==Post-Spanish era==
{{See also|Bombardment of San Juan de Ulúa}}
 
After [[Mexican War of Independence|Mexico's independence]] in 1821, a large body of Spanish troops continued to occupy San Juan de Ulúa as late as 1825. It was the last site in the former colonyKingdom of New Spain to be held by the Spanish and was surrendered to Mexican General [[Miguel Barragán]] in November 1825. The justification for the order of expulsion issued by [[President of Mexico|President]] [[Vicente Guerrero]] was their [[Spanish attempts to reconquer Mexico|failed attempt atto re-conqueringconquer Mexico]]. Since then, San Juan de Ulúa has served as a military and political symbol of Mexican resistance to foreign invasions and occupations, thanks to several of which took place during the nineteenth19th century. In 18361838 the [[July Monarchy|French]] bombarded the fortress in the [[Battle of Veracruz (1838)|Battle of Veracruz]] during the [[Pastry War]], a conflict resulting from a French citizen in Mexico seeking [[Reparation (legal)|reparations]] for his allegedly damaged [[Pastry|pastry]] shop; during the [[Mexican–American War]], a conflict which resulted from disputes over the nascent [[Republic of Texas]], the [[United States]] [[Siege of Veracruz|laid siege]] to the fortress during the war, a conflict which resulted from disputes over the nascent [[Republic of Texas]], and in 1863, the [[Second French Empire|French]] [[Second French intervention in Mexico|briefly occupied]] the city whenwhile installing [[Maximilian I of Mexico|Maximilian I]] as [[Second Mexican Empire|emperorEmperor of Mexico]]. For much of the nineteenth19th century, the fort served as a [[Law enforcement in Mexico|prison]], especially for [[Political prisoners|political prisonersprisoner]]s judged to be opposition to the government. Many prominent Mexican politicians spent time here while they were not in power.
 
The last foreign incursion came in 1914, on the eve of the [[World War I|First World War]], when an American expedition [[United States occupation of Veracruz|captured and occupied]] Veracruz as a response to the [[Tampico Affair]] against the background of the [[Mexican Revolution]]; which threatened the [[Petroleum industry in Mexico|regional oil industry]] in which Americans were heavily invested. After a short but bloody firefight the Americans captured the city, including San Juan de Ulúa. After seven months of U.S. occupation, the Americans departed and handed back the city to the Mexicans. The national legislature awarded the port and city of Veracruz the title of ''Heroic'' for the fourth time following this incident. A portion of San Juan de Ulúa also served several times as the [[presidential palace]], housing presidents such as [[Benito Juárez]] and [[Venustiano Carranza]]. The citadel was also used as a prison, especially during the early 20th-century regime of President [[Porfirio Díaz]]. It was alleged by some sources that in order to prevent prisoners from escaping, [[Shark|sharks]] were placed into the waters surrounding the island, so that they would kill anyone attempting to escape.{{whom|date=March 2021}}
 
==Modern times==
The fortress was ultimately closed ("decommisioned"decommissioned) when it was no longer required for the defencedefense of Mexico, being too impractical to serve as a modern naval base. After several years of decay, renovations were begun on the complex in the late 20th century. Some of the renovation projects are still under construction today. San Juan de Ulúa has been preserved in a somewhat deteriorated form and has been transformed into a museum open to the public. The prison, along with the remaining fortress complex are all open to the public, with the exception of the former presidential palace, which suffered severe decay and is still undergoing renovations as of 2020. The complex is a very popular tourist attraction among the Mexican public. The fortress has also been featured in [[Cinema of the United States|Hollywood]] movies, with San Juan de Ulúa was used to depict the fortress in [[Cartagena, Colombia]], in the climax of the 1984 film ''[[Romancing the Stone]]''.
 
== Gallery ==
 
<gallery>
File:Utvrda San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz, Meksiko.jpg
File:San Juan de Ulua, Meksiko.jpg
File:San Juan de Ulua 2022.jpg
File:San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz, Meksiko 2022.jpg
File:San Juan de Ulua, Meksiko 2022.jpg
File:Utvrda San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz 2022.jpg
File:Utvrda San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz, Meksiko 2022.jpg
File:Tvrđava San Juan de Ulua, Veracruz.jpg
File:U Veracruzu tvrđava.jpg
File:Tvrđava u meksičkom gradu Veracruzu.jpg
File:Utvrda u meksičkome gradu Veracruzu.jpg
File:Kolonijalna tvrđava.jpg
</gallery>
 
==See also==