Clothing industry: Difference between revisions

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[[File:NMA.0028271, Fashion Photo by Erik Liljeroth 1954.jpg|thumb|Nylon stocking inspection in [[Malmö]], [[Sweden]], in 1954.]]
[[File:Helping Khaleda, one of the survivors of Rana Plaza (14008308964).jpg|thumb|Garment factory workers in [[Bangladesh]], in 2013.]]
By the early 20th century, the industry in the [[developed world]] often involved [[immigrant]]s in "[[sweat shop]]s", which were usually legal but were sometimes illegally operated. They employed people in crowded and hostile conditions, working manual [[sewing machine]]s, and being paid less than a living wage for up to 10-to-13-hour shifts. This trend worsened due to attempts to protect existing industries which were being challenged by [[developing country|developing countries]] in [[South East Asia]], the [[Indian subcontinent]] and [[Central America]]. Although [[globalization]] saw the manufacturing largely outsourced to overseas labor markets, there has been a trend for the areas historically associated with the trade to shift focus to the more [[White-collar worker|white collar]] associated industries of [[fashion design]], [[Model (person)|fashion modeling]] and retail. Areas historically involved heavily in the "rag trade" include [[London]] and [[Milan]] in [[Europe]], and the [[SoHo]] district in [[New York City]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Koskinen |first=Ilpo |date=2005 |title=Semiotic Neighborhoods |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/25223990 |journal=Design Issues |volume=21 |issue=2 |pages=13–27 |issn=0747-9360 |access-date=2023-04-07 |archive-date=2023-03-05 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230305214924/https://www.jstor.org/stable/25223990 |url-status=live }}</ref>
 
There are considerable overlaps between the terms clothing-/garment-, [[textile industry|textile]]- and [[fashion industry]]. The clothing sector is concerned with all types of clothes, from [[fashion]] to [[uniform]]s, [[e-textiles]] and [[workwear]]. Textile industry is less concerned with the fashion aspect but produces the [[fabric]]s and fibres that are required for [[tailoring]]. The fashion industry closely follows - and sets - [[fashion trend]]s to always supply the latest in non-functional clothing.
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[[Working conditions]] in [[Low-cost country sourcing|low-cost countries]] have received critical media coverage, especially in the aftermath of large scale disasters like the [[2013 Savar building collapse]] or the [[Triangle Shirtwaist Factory fire]].
 
In 2016, the largest apparel exporting nations were [[China]] ($161 billion), [[Bangladesh]] ($28 billion), [[Vietnam]] ($25 billion), [[India]] ($18 billion), [[Hong Kong]] ($16 billion), [[Turkey]] ($15 billion) and [[Indonesia]] ($7 billion).<ref>{{Cite web|url = http://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907|title = Exporters hardly grab orders diverted from China|date = 11 August 2017|access-date = 11 August 2017|archive-date = 11 August 2017|archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20170811142826/http://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907|url-status = live}}</ref> By 2025, it is projected that the United States market will be worth $385 billion.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.statista.com/statistics/279757/apparel-market-size-projections-by-region/|title=Global apparel market size 2012-2025 {{!}} Statista|website=Statista|language=en|access-date=2018-02-19|archive-date=2018-02-20|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180220152046/https://www.statista.com/statistics/279757/apparel-market-size-projections-by-region/|url-status=live}}</ref> It is also projected that the e-commerce revenue will be worth $146 billion in the United States by 2023.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.statista.com/statistics/278890/us-apparel-and-accessories-retail-e-commerce-revenue/|title=U.S. online apparel and fashion revenue 2022 {{!}} Statistic|website=Statista|language=en|access-date=2018-02-19|archive-date=2018-02-20|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180220152111/https://www.statista.com/statistics/278890/us-apparel-and-accessories-retail-e-commerce-revenue/|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
===Production in developing countries===
{{See also|Bangladesh textile industry|Textile industry of China|Textile industry in India|Textile industry in Pakistan}}
The worldwide market for textiles and apparel exports in 2013 according to [[United Nations Statistics Division|United Nations Commodity Trade Statistics Database]] stood at $772 billion.<ref name="comtrade">{{cite news|title=India world's second largest textiles exporter: UN Comtrade|url=http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2014-06-02/news/50272849_1_textiles-exports-india-calender-year|agency=Economic Times|date=June 2, 2014|access-date=2019-06-01|archive-date=2014-06-05|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140605121831/http://articles.economictimes.indiatimes.com/2014-06-02/news/50272849_1_textiles-exports-india-calender-year|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
In 2016, the largest apparel exporting nations were China ($161 billion), Bangladesh ($28 billion), [[Vietnam]] ($25 billion), India ($18 billion), [[Hong Kong]] ($16 billion), [[Turkey]] ($15 billion) and [[Indonesia]] ($7 billion).<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907|title=Exporters hardly grab orders diverted from China|date=11 August 2017|website=thedailystar.net|access-date=30 April 2018|archive-date=30 April 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180430001854/https://www.thedailystar.net/business/exporters-hardly-grab-orders-diverted-china-1446907|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
====Bangladesh====
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In 2006, tens of thousands of workers mobilized in one of the country's largest strike movements, affecting almost all of the 4,000 factories. The Bangladesh Garment Manufacturers and Exporters Association (BGMEA) used police forces to crack down. Three workers were killed, hundreds more were wounded by bullets, or imprisoned. In 2010, after a new strike movement, nearly 1,000 people were injured among workers as a result of the repression.
<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.bastamag.net/Au-Bangladesh-une-ouvriere-du|title=Au Bangladesh, une ouvrière du textile meurt tous les deux jours|first=Nolwenn|last=Weiler|website=Basta!|access-date=2019-06-01|archive-date=2020-03-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200329130715/https://www.bastamag.net/Au-Bangladesh-une-ouvriere-du|url-status=live}}</ref>
 
====Cambodia====
The garment industry in [[Cambodia]] represents the largest portion of the country's manufacturing sector, accounting for 80% of all exports. In 2012, exports grew to $4.61 billion, up 8% over 2011. In the first half of 2013, the [[Economy of Cambodia#Garment industry|Cambodian garment industry]] reported exports worth $1.56 billion.<ref name="investvine">{{cite web|url=http://investvine.com/cambodias-textile-industry-grew-32/|title=Cambodia's textile industry grew 32%|first=Arno|last=Maierbrugger|work=Inside Investor|date=11 July 2013|access-date=11 July 2013|archive-date=29 May 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230529144319/https://investvine.com/cambodias-textile-industry-grew-32/|url-status=live}}</ref> The sector employs 335,400 workers, of which 91% are female.
 
The sector operates largely in the final phase of garment production, that is turning yarns and fabrics into garments, as the country lacks a strong textile manufacturing base.
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Employees of [[Ethiopia]]n garment factories, who work for brands such as [[Guess]], [[H&M]] or [[Calvin Klein]], receive a monthly salary of 26 dollars per month. These very low wages have led to low productivity, frequent strikes and high turnover. Some factories have replaced all their employees on average every 12 months, according to the 2019 report of the Stern Centre for Business and Human Rights at [[New York University]].
 
The report states: "Rather than the docile and cheap labour force promoted in Ethiopia, foreign-based suppliers have met employees who are unhappy with their pay and living conditions and who want to protest more and more by stopping work or even quitting. In their eagerness to create a "made in Ethiopia" brand, the [[Government of Ethiopia|government]], global brands and foreign manufacturers did not anticipate that the base salary was simply too low for workers to make a living from."<ref>[https://www.lemonde.fr/afrique/article/2019/05/08/en-ethiopie-les-petites-mains-de-h-m-ou-calvin-klein-gagnent-23-euros-par-mois_5459655_3212.html En Ethiopie, les petites mains de H&M ou Calvin Klein gagnent 23 euros par mois] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190601143954/https://www.lemonde.fr/afrique/article/2019/05/08/en-ethiopie-les-petites-mains-de-h-m-ou-calvin-klein-gagnent-23-euros-par-mois_5459655_3212.html |date=2019-06-01 }}, ''Le Monde'', 8 May 2019</ref>
 
====India====
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====Pakistan====
The textile industry is the largest manufacturing industry in Pakistan, the fourth largest global producer of cotton, and the eighth largest exporter of textile products in Asia. It contributes to 8.5% of GDP and provides employment to 30% of the 56 million strong national workforce, or 40% of industrial employment. [[Punjab, Pakistan|Punjab Province]] dominates the textile industry in Pakistan. Realising the economic and employment implications of non-compliance for Pakistan, the national government has developed an International Labour Standard (ILS) Compliance and Reporting Programme to improve workplace practices in the textile industry together with the ILO.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Association (PTEA) |first=Pakistan Textile Exporters |date=2015-08-05 |title=Increasing productivity and competitiveness through labour law compliance in Pakistan's textile sector |url=http://www.ilo.org/islamabad/whatwedo/projects/WCMS_388761/lang--en/index.htm |access-date=2022-04-08 |website=www.ilo.org |language=en |archive-date=2022-05-08 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220508085113/https://www.ilo.org/islamabad/whatwedo/projects/WCMS_388761/lang--en/index.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>
 
==== China ====
China has held the position of the world's largest clothing manufacturer for over a decade, commanding over 50% of global apparel production. In 2021, the country's apparel market generated an impressive revenue of $303 billion USD. The province of Guangdong serves as the epicenter of clothing production, housing a vast network of over 28,000 exporting enterprises. In the first quarter of 2022 alone, the province's clothing manufacturing sector contributed $6.3 billion USD in export value. However, since 2015, China's clothing sector has exhibited a notable shift towards sustainability, with a reduced emphasis on expanding scale and a greater focus on technology-driven approaches to enhance productivity. This transformation has been largely motivated by the escalating labor costs, compelling businesses to transition from labor-intensive practices to more efficient and automated methods.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Camarero |first1=Sergio |title=Clothing Manufacturing in China: An Introduction - ARC Group |url=https://arc-group.com/china-clothing-manufacturing-sourcing/#:~:text=China's%20Clothing%20Manufacturing%20Industry&text=The%20country%20has%20a%20revenue,2021%20from%20the%20apparel%20market. |website=arc-group.com |date=23 June 2022 |access-date=30 June 2023 |archive-date=30 June 2023 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230630203452/https://arc-group.com/china-clothing-manufacturing-sourcing/#:~:text=China's%20Clothing%20Manufacturing%20Industry&text=The%20country%20has%20a%20revenue,2021%20from%20the%20apparel%20market. |url-status=live }}</ref>
 
==Retail==
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The clothing retail sector is highly competitive, with retailers constantly innovating to stay ahead of the competition. Fast fashion retailers such as [[H&M]], [[Zara (retailer)|Zara]], and [[Forever 21]] have gained popularity by offering trendy clothing at affordable prices. However, the environmental and social impact of [[fast fashion]] has come under scrutiny in recent years, leading to a rise in popularity of sustainable and ethical fashion.
 
[[Fast fashion]] is a major source of retail sales for the clothing industry. Retailers do not typically manufacture their own items and henceforth they purchase their goods from wholesalers and manufactures. This makes it so that they can mark down their prices, and make them cheaper to consumers. This process is called a [[Supply chain|Supply Chain]], which is the way in which companies and suppliers are able to distribute products to consumers.<ref>{{Cite web |date=7 April 2022 |title=What is retail and what can retail software do for your business? |url=https://erply.com/what-is-retail/ |url-status=bot: unknown |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220520223214/https://erply.com/what-is-retail/ |access-date=7 April 2022 |website=ERPLY |archive-date=20 May 2022 }}</ref> [[Fast fashion|Fast-fashion]] based companies can quickly manufacture and distribute their designs. These quick made designs often result in extra waste, low-paid workers, and [[overconsumption]]. Fast fashion companies include [[Zara (retailer)|Zara]], [[Forever 21|Forever21]], [[Old Navy]], and [[Gap Inc.|Gap]].<ref>{{Cite journal |last1=Desai |first1=Anuj |last2=Nassar |first2=Nedal |last3=Chertow |first3=Marian |date=2012 |title=American Seams: An Exploration of Hybrid Fast Fashion and Domestic Manufacturing Models in Relocalised Apparel Production |url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/jcorpciti.45.53 |journal=The Journal of Corporate Citizenship |issue=45 |pages=53–78 |doi= |jstor=jcorpciti.45.53 |issn=1470-5001 |access-date=2022-04-04 |archive-date=2022-07-08 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20220708015651/https://www.jstor.org/stable/jcorpciti.45.53 |url-status=live }}</ref>
 
Overall, the retail sector plays a vital role in the clothing industry, connecting manufacturers with consumers and driving demand for clothing. The sector is constantly evolving and adapting to changes in consumer behavior and societal trends.
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[[File:Sewing factory in Buryatia.jpg|thumb|Clothing factory in Buryatia, Russia]]
The clothing industry has grown to an eco-friendly packaging solution to limit the amount of waste.<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Coelho|first1=Patricia Megale|last2=Corona|first2=Blanca|last3=ten Klooster|first3=Roland|last4=Worrell|first4=Ernst|date=2020-05-01|title=Sustainability of reusable packaging–Current situation and trends|journal=Resources, Conservation & Recycling: X|language=en|volume=6|pages=100037|doi=10.1016/j.rcrx.2020.100037|s2cid=219075227|issn=2590-289X|doi-access=free}}</ref> The regulator, Fast-Moving Consumer Goods (FMCG) companies, and retailers are contributing their efforts to the eco-friendly packaging commitment. China banned imports on packing waste in 2017, Canada implemented Zero Plastic Waste in 2018, and U.S introduced bills around reducing single use packing waste.<ref>{{Cite web|title=The drive toward sustainability in packaging--beyond the quick wins|url=https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/paper-forest-products-and-packaging/our-insights/the-drive-toward-sustainability-in-packaging-beyond-the-quick-wins|access-date=2021-11-29|website=McKinsey & Company|language=en|archive-date=2021-11-29|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211129000426/https://www.mckinsey.com/industries/paper-forest-products-and-packaging/our-insights/the-drive-toward-sustainability-in-packaging-beyond-the-quick-wins|url-status=live}}</ref> The [[nonprofit organisation]] [[As You Sow]] produced a report in 2010 which argued that "apparel industry leaders have made changes to their purchasing practices ... to improve working conditions in factories".<ref>As You Sow, [https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59a706d4f5e2319b70240ef9/t/5a7f6a069140b73f5d0da92b/1518299654690/Apparel_Report.pdf Best Current Practices in Purchasing: The Apparel Industry] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210424063342/https://static1.squarespace.com/static/59a706d4f5e2319b70240ef9/t/5a7f6a069140b73f5d0da92b/1518299654690/Apparel_Report.pdf |date=2021-04-24 }}, published 10 July 2010, accessed 24 April 2021</ref>
 
===Trade unions===