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{{autobiography|date=January 2011}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=April 2020}}
{{Infobox person
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| name = Mark Twight
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| nationality = [[United States|American]]
| nationality = American
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| occupation = mountain climber, strength and conditioning gym owner
| occupation = mountain climber, strength and conditioning gym owner
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'''Mark Twight''' (born November 2, 1961) is an [[American]] [[climber]], [[writer]] and the founder of Gym Jones. He rose to prominence as a mountaineer in the late 1980s and early 1990s with a series of difficult, dangerous alpine climbs in various ranges around the world.<ref>[http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/twight/qa.html Mountainzone interview]</ref> His radical, light-weight approach to [[alpinism]] has seen him regarded as an influential figure in the single-push movement.
'''Mark Twight''' (born November 2, 1961) is an American climber, writer and the founder of Gym Jones. He rose to prominence as a mountaineer in the late 1980s and early 1990s with a series of difficult, dangerous alpine climbs in various ranges around the world.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/99/interviews/twight/qa.html|title=Tales from Mark Twight|website=www.mountainzone.com}}</ref> His radical, light-weight approach to [[alpinism]] has seen him regarded as an influential figure in the single-push movement.


==Climbing==
==Climbing==
He made the first ascent of "The Reality Bath" on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which is unrepeated and described by [[Canadian Rockies]] guidebook author, Albi Sole as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined."<ref>Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Albi Sole 1988 2nd edition</ref> In his guidebook to the range Joe Josephson declared "The Reality Bath is undoubtedly the most dangerous ice route in the range."<ref>Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Joe Josephson, 1994 Rocky Mountain Books</ref> That same season he established a speed record on the 925 meter-high "Slipstream" (2hrs 4min) on the east face of Snowdome.<ref>Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better, Vol 2, pp108, Hans Florine, Bill Wright 2004, Falcon Press Publishing {{ISBN|978-0-7627-3095-7}}</ref>
In 1988, Twight made the first ascent of "The Reality Bath" on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which remains unrepeated. The route has been described by [[Canadian Rockies]] guidebook author, Albi Sole as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined."<ref>Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Albi Sole 1988 2nd edition</ref> In his own guidebook to the Rockies, Joe Josephson declared that "The Reality Bath is undoubtedly the most dangerous ice route in the range."<ref>Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Joe Josephson, 1994 Rocky Mountain Books</ref> That same season Twight established a speed record on the 925 meter-high "Slipstream" (2hrs 4min) on the east face of Snowdome.<ref>Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better, Vol 2, pp108, Hans Florine, Bill Wright 2004, Falcon Press Publishing {{ISBN|978-0-7627-3095-7}}</ref>


Twight's first ascents in the [[Mont Blanc]] [[massif]] near [[Chamonix]], [[France]] include "Richard Cranium Memorial" on the northwest face of Les Droites with [[Barry Blanchard]] (1990), "Beyond Good And Evil" on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins with Andy Parkin (1992), and "There Goes The Neighborhood" on the northwest face of the Aiguille Sans Nom with [[Scott Backes]] (1993).<ref>American Alpine Journal, 2001 pp145 {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref>
Twight's first ascents in the [[Mont Blanc]] [[massif]] near [[Chamonix]], France, include "Richard Cranium Memorial" on the northwest face of Les Droites with [[Barry Blanchard]] (1990), "Beyond Good And Evil" on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins with Andy Parkin (1992), and "There Goes The Neighborhood" on the northwest face of the Aiguille Sans Nom with [[Scott Backes]] (1993).<ref>American Alpine Journal, 2001 pp145 {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref>


In the [[Himalayas]], Twight attempted more routes than he succeeded on, being turned away by the South Pillar of [[Nuptse]] with [[Jeff Lowe (climber)|Jeff Lowe]] (twice), and shut down {{convert|1200|ft}} below the summit of [[Nanga Parbat]] when a storm forced retreat down the the [[Rupal Face]] (accompanied by Barry Blanchard, Kevin Doyle and Ward Robinson).<ref>Extreme Alpinism: Climbing, Light, Fast And High, pp 103, Mark Twight, James Martin 1999 The Mountaineers Books, {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref><ref>[http://classic.mountainzone.com/climbing/twight Mountainzone profile by Jim Martin]</ref> Other notable Himalayan climbs include the first ascent of the northwest face of Kangtega with [[Alison Hargreaves]], Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe.<ref>Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, pp246, Jeff Lowe, 1996 The Mountaineers Books {{ISBN|978-0-89886-446-5}}</ref>
In the [[Himalayas]], Twight attempted more routes than he succeeded on, being turned away by the South Pillar of [[Nuptse]] with [[Jeff Lowe (climber)|Jeff Lowe]] (twice), and shut down {{convert|1200|ft}} below the summit of [[Nanga Parbat]] when a storm forced retreat down the [[Rupal Face]] (accompanied by Barry Blanchard, Kevin Doyle and Ward Robinson).<ref>Extreme Alpinism: Climbing, Light, Fast And High, pp 103, Mark Twight, James Martin 1999 The Mountaineers Books, {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mountainzone.com/climbing/twight/|title=Mark Twight|website=www.mountainzone.com}}</ref> Other notable Himalayan climbs include the first ascent of the northwest face of Kangtega with [[Alison Hargreaves]], Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe.<ref>Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, pp246, Jeff Lowe, 1996 The Mountaineers Books {{ISBN|978-0-89886-446-5}}</ref>


Twight made several notable ascents in the [[Alaska Range]]. In 1994 he and Scott Backes climbed "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter in 72 hours roundtrip, which halved the previous fastest ascent of the North Buttress.<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=1995, pp11, "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter by Mark Twight, 1995 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-61-0}}</ref> The 39 hours non-stop ascent is considered a landmark moment in the single-push climbing movement.<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp131 Baby Steps: Lessons From Alaskan Alpinism by Steve House 2001, American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref> Twight's participation in this style of climbing culminated with the 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali in June 2000 with Backes and [[Steve House]].<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp48 Mt McKinley's Slovak Route by Scott Backes 2001 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref><ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20040426015136/http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/Jukebox/DENALI/html/matw.htm Denali National Park Jukebox interview]</ref><ref>[http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html Steve House profile] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000237/http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html |date=2010-09-19 }}</ref> During his visits to the Alaska Range Twight participated in a variety of high-profile rescues.<ref>[https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/denali/disp-20000613.html PBS article regarding 2000 rescue]</ref><ref>[http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1995_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf NPS Mountaineering Summary, 1995]</ref> Twight was nominated for the Piolet d'Or twice during his career, in 1993 for "Beyond Good and Evil" and 1995 for "Deprivation".
Twight made several notable ascents in the [[Alaska Range]]. In 1994, he and Scott Backes climbed "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter in 72 hours roundtrip, which halved the previous fastest ascent of the North Buttress.<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=1995, pp11, "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter by Mark Twight, 1995 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-61-0}}</ref> The 39 hours non-stop ascent is considered a landmark moment in the single-push climbing movement.<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp131 Baby Steps: Lessons From Alaskan Alpinism by Steve House 2001, American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref> Twight's participation in this style of climbing culminated with the 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali in June 2000 with Backes and [[Steve House (climber)|Steve House]].<ref>American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp48 Mt McKinley's Slovak Route by Scott Backes 2001 American Alpine Club {{ISBN|0-930410-89-0}}</ref><ref>[https://web.archive.org/web/20040426015136/http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/Jukebox/DENALI/html/matw.htm Denali National Park Jukebox interview]</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000237/http://outsideonline.com/outside/culture/200610/steve-house-mountaineering-3.html|url-status=dead|title=Steve House profile|archivedate=September 19, 2010}}</ref> During his visits to the Alaska Range, Twight participated in a variety of high-profile rescues.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.pbs.org/wgbh/nova/denali/disp-20000613.html|title=NOVA &#124; Deadly Ascent &#124; Dispatches &#124; A Climber Saved (June 13, 2000) &#124; PBS|website=www.pbs.org}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.nps.gov/dena/planyourvisit/upload/1995_Mtnrg_Summary.pdf|title=NPS Mountaineering Summary, 1995}}</ref> Twight was nominated for the [[Piolet d'Or]] twice during his career, in 1993 for "Beyond Good and Evil" and 1995 for "Deprivation".


On February 25th, 2017 Twight received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award from the American Alpine Club.<ref>http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web16f/newswire-aac-benefit-dinner</ref> The award is given annually, "to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in the various fields of mountaineering endeavor."<ref>https://americanalpineclub.org/awards/</ref>
On February 25, 2017, Twight received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award from the American Alpine Club.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://alpinist.com/newswire/american-alpine-club-to-present-five-awards-at-its-annual-benefit-dinner-feb-25/|title=American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25|first=Alpinist|last=Magazine|date=December 12, 2016}}</ref> The award is given annually, "to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in the various fields of mountaineering endeavor."<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://americanalpineclub.org/awards/|title = Awards}}</ref>


==Personal life==
==Later career==
⚫
Mark Twight was the founder of Gym Jones,<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.outsideonline.com/health/training-performance/hell-earth-fitness-plan/|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000227/http://outsideonline.com/outside/bodywork/200811/hell-on-earth-fitness-plan-1.html|url-status=dead|title=The Hell-On-Earth Fitness Plan|first=Nick|last=Heil|date=December 10, 2008|archivedate=September 19, 2010|website=Outside Online}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB124208076438008273|title=Training That's Beyond Boot Camp - WSJ|first=Michael J.|last=Ybarra}}</ref> where he trained athletes (including MMA fighters, NFL players and professional cyclists), military personnel, actors and others.
⚫
Following the Slovak Direct ascent Twight retired from climbing, and during the next several years he focused on shooting pictures and guns.<ref>Mark F. Twight, "Eat or Be Eaten" S.W.A.T., March 2000 (p. 60). PDF version at http://www.rangemaster.com</ref><ref>[http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_151_25/ai_70380678/ "Dane Burns: Practical Guns For Serious Users"] American Handgunner, March 2001 by Mark Twight</ref><ref>[http://marsguns.com/custom1911/THUG1911/THUG1911-SureFireCombatTactics2007.pdf Surefire Tactics review of MARS THUG]</ref> In the mid-2000s Twight competed in ski mountaineering races in Europe and the US.<ref>http://www.gymjones.com/gym/disciple/1/</ref> Twight has become a dedicated and serious road cyclist following shoulder surgery in 2006.<ref>http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/analysis/at-mark-twights-gym-jones-clients-pick-their-poison_270872</ref> He has competed in a wide range of races, from omniums and hill climbs to the grueling [[LOTOJA]] (Logan to Jackson) Classic<ref>https://www.usacycling.org/results/?compid=250690</ref> and has also written essays about cycling on his own and other websites.<ref>https://www.marktwight.com/blogs/discourse</ref><ref>http://thechurchofthebigring.com/author/mark-twight</ref> <ref>https://medium.com/mft-discourse</ref>Twight has lived in [[Salt Lake City, Utah]] since 2001.


⚫
He also consults as the technical director of Mountain Mobility Group, LLC, which provides "cold weather, high altitude, and fitness training, as well as R&D for the Department of Defense."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id%3D1 |title=Mark Twight - Discourse - Biography |access-date=January 30, 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201155530/http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id=1 |archive-date=February 1, 2014 }}</ref> He was hired as the subject matter expert during the development of the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) currently issued to special operations personnel.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://soldiersystems.net/2008/07/24/pcu-alternate-source-of-supply/|title=PCU Alternate Source of Supply - Soldier Systems Daily|date=July 24, 2008}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.backpacker.com/august_2003_feature_special_forces_gear_test/articles/6543?page=4 |title=Backpacker Magazine article |access-date=October 8, 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100221155123/http://www.backpacker.com/august_2003_feature_special_forces_gear_test/articles/6543?page=4 |archive-date=February 21, 2010 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.allbusiness.com/retail-trade/miscellaneous-retail-miscellaneous/4479324-1.html|title=Sporting Goods Business Business, February 1, 2005}}</ref>
==Later Career==
⚫
Mark Twight is the founder of Gym Jones,<ref>[http://outsideonline.com/outside/bodywork/200811/hell-on-earth-fitness-plan-1.html Outside Magazine, "Hell on Earth Fitness"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100919000227/http://outsideonline.com/outside/bodywork/200811/hell-on-earth-fitness-plan-1.html |date=2010-09-19 }}</ref><ref>[https://www.wsj.com/articles/SB124208076438008273 Wall Street Journal online]</ref> where he trains athletes (including MMA fighters, NFL players and professional cyclists), military personnel, and others.


In 2005, Twight trained the cast and stunt crew for the movie ''[[300 (film)|300]]'',<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.300ondvd.com/300.html|title=300 main website}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://raincloud.warnerbros.com/wbmovies/300/journals/journal3_hi.mov |title=300 Video Journal No. 3 |access-date=October 8, 2009 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110724220122/http://raincloud.warnerbros.com/wbmovies/300/journals/journal3_hi.mov |archive-date=July 24, 2011 |url-status=dead }}</ref> adhering to a philosophy that "appearance is a consequence of fitness".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.mensjournal.com/health-fitness/top-10-hollywood-bulk-ups-all-time|title=The 25 Most Intense Hollywood Bulk-ups of All Time|first=Matthew|last=Jussim|date=September 9, 2021|website=Men's Journal}}</ref> One training [[regimen]] that his crew underwent in the movie came to be known as the 300 Workout, spawning many variations by other fitness personalities and trainers.
⚫
He also consults as the technical director of Mountain Mobility Group, LLC, which provides "cold weather, high altitude, and fitness training, as well as R&D for the Department of Defense."<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id%3D1 |title=Archived copy |accessdate=2014-01-30 |deadurl=yes |archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20140201155530/http://www.marktwight.com/discourse.php?id=1 |archivedate=2014-02-01 |df= }}</ref> He was hired as the subject matter expert during the development of the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) currently issued to special operations personnel.<ref>[http://soldiersystems.net/2008/07/24/pcu-alternate-source-of-supply/ Soldier Systems blog]</ref><ref>[http://www.backpacker.com/august_2003_feature_special_forces_gear_test/articles/6543?page=4 Backpacker Magazine article]</ref><ref>[http://www.allbusiness.com/retail-trade/miscellaneous-retail-miscellaneous/4479324-1.html Sporting Goods Business Business, February 1, 2005]</ref> Gym Jones' relationship to the military is largely absent on their website, though in the August 2009 issue of [[Muscle and Fitness]] [[Dan John]] quipped that, "There are people in there who officially don't exist, if you catch my meaning, but you sleep better because they do ... It's a whole different world when you're training with folks whose lives are on the line."<ref>[http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0801/is_8_70/ai_n32097549/pg_6/?tag=content;col1 Muscle and Fitness, "Houses of Pain"]</ref>


⚫
Through Gym Jones, Twight continues to prepare actors for movie roles. His credits include, "Man of Steel", "300: Rise of an Empire", "Batman vs. Superman", "Wonder Woman" and "Justice League".<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/03/mark-twight-hollywood-trainer|title = Meet the Trainer Building Hollywood's Most Fit Superheroes|website = [[Vanity Fair (magazine)|Vanity Fair]]|date = March 18, 2016}}</ref>
In 2005 Twight trained the cast and stunt crew for the movie ''[[300 (film)|300]]''.<ref>[http://www.300ondvd.com/300.html 300 main website]</ref><ref>[http://raincloud.warnerbros.com/wbmovies/300/journals/journal3_hi.mov 300 Video Journal #3]</ref> He adhered to his philosophy that "appearance is a consequence of fitness" to make the trainees strong and lean, which happened to give them the physiques of Spartan warriors.<ref>[http://www.mensfitness.com/lifestyle/entertainment/271 Men's Fitness Top Ten]</ref> "The first misconception is that we used a bodybuilding-type program of progressive overload and over-feeding with the goal of making the guys look huge. We took the opposite route of calorie restriction to make them look like they lived off the land, in the wild, all sinewy and ripped."<ref>[http://www.gymjones.com/knowledge.php?id=35 Gym Jones website commentary about 300]</ref> The training was difficult, Twight pulled no punches, refusing to differentiate between actors, stuntmen, or athletes. After being told the details of a day's workout [[Andrew Pleavin]] said, "It feels like you just killed my dog." <ref>[http://www.menshealth.com/cda/article.do?site=MensHealth&channel=best.life&category=life.lessons&conitem=de42ad5c08450110VgnVCM10000013281eac____ Men's Health article about 300] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20090827135028/http://www.menshealth.com/cda/article.do?site=MensHealth&channel=best.life&category=life.lessons&conitem=de42ad5c08450110VgnVCM10000013281eac____ |date=2009-08-27 }}</ref>


⚫
The name "Gym Jones" was chosen by Twight's former wife, Lisa.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.mensfitness.co.uk/lifestyle/1906/gym-jones-training-best |title=Gym Jones: Hollywood's trainer {{!}} Men's Fitness UK |website=www.mensfitness.co.uk |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131011075917/http://www.mensfitness.co.uk/lifestyle/1906/gym-jones-training-best |archive-date=2013-10-11}}</ref> It is a reference to People's Temple leader [[Jim Jones]]. On the Gym Jones website, Mark Twight claims his favorite drink is Flavor Aid,<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20070809184411/http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1|url-status=dead|title=Twight's Disciple page at Gym Jones|archivedate=August 9, 2007}}</ref> the same product that Jones' followers mixed with cyanide in one of the largest murder-suicides in recent history in 1978. Additionally, one of the few Gym Jones shirts available for public purchase comes with the line "there's a fine line between salvation and drinking poison in the jungle" printed on the back. Twight says that "wearing it in public will require some commitment. Some readers will be offended, while others will merely scratch their ignorant heads."<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php|archiveurl=https://web.archive.org/web/20100316195941/http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php|url-status=dead|title=Gym Jones T-Shirts Page|archivedate=March 16, 2010}}</ref>
One training [[regimen]] that his crew underwent in the movie came to be known as the 300 Workout, spawning many variations by other fitness personalities and trainers.


Mark Twight and Michael Blevins started Nonprophet in 2018.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nonprophet.media/|title=nonprophet|website=nonprophet}}</ref> They released their first episode of The Dissect Podcast on May 11, 2018.<ref>[https://www.nonprophet.media/dissect-podcast/2018/5/11/the-dissect-podcast-ep-1 Unknown]{{Dead link|date=February 2022 | fix-attempted=yes}}</ref>
⚫
Twight continues to prepare actors for movie roles. His credits include, "Man of Steel", "300: Rise of an Empire", "Batman vs. Superman", "Wonder Woman" and "Justice League". <ref>http://www.vanityfair.com/hollywood/2016/03/mark-twight-hollywood-trainer</ref>


==Personal life==
⚫
The name "Gym Jones" was chosen by Twight's former-wife, Lisa.<ref>http://www.mensfitness.co.uk/lifestyle/1906/gym-jones-training-best</ref> It is a reference to People's Temple leader [[Jim Jones]]. On the Gym Jones website, Mark Twight claims his favorite drink is Flavor Aid,<ref>[http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1 Twight's Disciple page at Gym Jones] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070809184411/http://www.gymjones.com/disciples.php?id=1 |date=2007-08-09 }}</ref> the same product that Jones' followers mixed with cyanide in one of the largest murder-suicides in recent history in 1978. Additionally, one of the few Gym Jones shirts available for public purchase comes with the line "there's a fine line between salvation and drinking poison in the jungle" printed on the back. Twight says that "wearing it in public will require some commitment. Some readers will be offended, while others will merely scratch their ignorant heads."<ref>[http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php Gym Jones T-Shirts Page] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100316195941/http://www.gymjones.com/buy.php |date=2010-03-16 }}</ref>
⚫
After leaving climbing, Twight took up photography and competitive pistol shooting.<ref>Mark F. Twight, "Eat or Be Eaten" S.W.A.T., March 2000 (p. 60). PDF version at http://www.rangemaster.com</ref><ref>[http://findarticles.com/p/articles/mi_m0BTT/is_151_25/ai_70380678/ "Dane Burns: Practical Guns For Serious Users"] American Handgunner, March 2001 by Mark Twight</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=http://marsguns.com/custom1911/THUG1911/THUG1911-SureFireCombatTactics2007.pdf|title=Surefire Tactics review of MARS THUG}}</ref> In the mid-2000s Twight competed in ski mountaineering races in Europe and the US.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.gymjones.com/gym/disciple/1/ |title=Gym Jones / Disciples / Mark Twight |access-date=January 30, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131105105558/http://www.gymjones.com/gym/disciple/1/ |archive-date=November 5, 2013 |url-status=dead }}</ref> Twight has become a dedicated and serious road cyclist following shoulder surgery in 2006.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/analysis/at-mark-twights-gym-jones-clients-pick-their-poison_270872 |title=At Mark Twight’s Gym Jones, clients pick their poison |access-date=January 30, 2014 |archive-date=February 2, 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140202111835/http://velonews.competitor.com/2013/01/analysis/at-mark-twights-gym-jones-clients-pick-their-poison_270872 |url-status=dead }}</ref> He has competed in a wide range of races, from omniums and hill climbs to the grueling [[LOTOJA]] (Logan to Jackson) Classic<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.usacycling.org/results/?compid=250690|title = The Official Website - USA Cycling}}</ref> and has also written essays about cycling on his own and other websites.<ref>{{Cite web |url=https://www.marktwight.com/blogs/discourse |title=Discourse - Mark F. Twight |access-date=March 20, 2017 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20170321091030/https://www.marktwight.com/blogs/discourse |archive-date=March 21, 2017 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=http://thechurchofthebigring.com/author/mark-twight | title=Archive by Author | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140203045512/http://thechurchofthebigring.com/author/mark-twight | archive-date=2014-02-03}}</ref><ref>{{cite web| url = https://medium.com/mft-discourse| url-status = dead| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20170321083218/https://medium.com/mft-discourse| archive-date = 2017-03-21| title = MFT Discourse – Medium}}</ref> Twight has lived in [[Salt Lake City]], Utah since 2001.

As of 2014, Rob Macdonald (Bobby Maximus) has taken over as GM of Gym Jones.<ref>https://gymjones.com/instructor/10</ref>


==Writing==
==Writing==
His first book, “Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High”<ref>[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1064] Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref> (1999) won the Mountain Exposition award at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival<ref>[http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Exposition.htm Banff International Mountain Book Festival Mountain Exposition award winners]</ref> and the National Outdoor Book Award.<ref>[http://www.noba-web.org/bookrel99.htm National Outdoor Book Award 1999 winners]</ref> “Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber”<ref>[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1248] Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref> (2001) won the Mountain Literature<ref>[http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Literature.htm Banff International Mountain Book Festival Mountain Literature award winners]</ref> category at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival, 2001, and was shortlisted at the Trento mountain book festival in Italy, 2005.<ref>[http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 34th Premio ITAS award winners] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110722034813/http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 |date=2011-07-22 }}, 2005</ref> His personal website contains much recent writing about fitness, mental attitude, and other topics. His essays and articles have been published in seven countries, and translated into five languages.
His first book, "Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High”<ref>[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1064 Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High] {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref> (1999) won the Mountain Exposition award at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Exposition.htm|title=Banff Mountain Book Festival - Mountain Exposition Awards}}</ref> and the National Outdoor Book Award.<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.noba-web.org/bookrel99.htm|title=Media Information Page: 1999 National Outdoor Book Awards|website=www.noba-web.org}}</ref> "Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber"<ref>[http://www.mountaineersbooks.org/productdetails.cfm?PC=1248 Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber] {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}</ref> (2001) won the Mountain Literature<ref>{{Cite web|url=http://www.theragens.com/books/Banff%20Mountain%20Book%20Awards%20-%20Mountain%20Literature.htm|title=Banff International Mountain Book Festival Mountain Literature award winners}}</ref> category at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival, 2001, and was shortlisted at the Trento mountain book festival in Italy, 2005.<ref>[http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 34th Premio ITAS award winners] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110722034813/http://www.gruppoitas.it/index.php?action=dettnotizie&idnotizia=379 |date=July 22, 2011 }}, 2005</ref> His personal website contains much recent writing about fitness, mental attitude, and other topics. His essays and articles have been published in seven countries, and translated into five languages.


==Bibliography==
==Bibliography==
* Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}
* Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber {{ISBN|978-0-89886-887-6}}
* Extreme Alpinism {{ISBN|978-0-89886-654-4}}
* Extreme Alpinism {{ISBN|978-0-89886-654-4}}
* Refuge {{ISBN|978-1-7335180-1-7}}


==References==
==References==

Latest revision as of 15:11, 8 February 2024

Mark Twight
Born (1961-11-02) November 2, 1961 (age 62)
Yosemite National Park, California
NationalityAmerican
Occupation(s)mountain climber, strength and conditioning gym owner

Mark Twight (born November 2, 1961) is an American climber, writer and the founder of Gym Jones. He rose to prominence as a mountaineer in the late 1980s and early 1990s with a series of difficult, dangerous alpine climbs in various ranges around the world.[1] His radical, light-weight approach to alpinism has seen him regarded as an influential figure in the single-push movement.

Climbing

[edit]

In 1988, Twight made the first ascent of "The Reality Bath" on the White Pyramid with Randy Rackliff, which remains unrepeated. The route has been described by Canadian Rockies guidebook author, Albi Sole as "so dangerous as to be of little value except to those suicidally inclined."[2] In his own guidebook to the Rockies, Joe Josephson declared that "The Reality Bath is undoubtedly the most dangerous ice route in the range."[3] That same season Twight established a speed record on the 925 meter-high "Slipstream" (2hrs 4min) on the east face of Snowdome.[4]

Twight's first ascents in the Mont Blanc massif near Chamonix, France, include "Richard Cranium Memorial" on the northwest face of Les Droites with Barry Blanchard (1990), "Beyond Good And Evil" on the north face of the Aiguille des Pelerins with Andy Parkin (1992), and "There Goes The Neighborhood" on the northwest face of the Aiguille Sans Nom with Scott Backes (1993).[5]

In the Himalayas, Twight attempted more routes than he succeeded on, being turned away by the South Pillar of Nuptse with Jeff Lowe (twice), and shut down 1,200 feet (370 m) below the summit of Nanga Parbat when a storm forced retreat down the Rupal Face (accompanied by Barry Blanchard, Kevin Doyle and Ward Robinson).[6][7] Other notable Himalayan climbs include the first ascent of the northwest face of Kangtega with Alison Hargreaves, Tom Frost and Jeff Lowe.[8]

Twight made several notable ascents in the Alaska Range. In 1994, he and Scott Backes climbed "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter in 72 hours roundtrip, which halved the previous fastest ascent of the North Buttress.[9] The 39 hours non-stop ascent is considered a landmark moment in the single-push climbing movement.[10] Twight's participation in this style of climbing culminated with the 60-hour ascent of the Slovak Direct on the south face of Denali in June 2000 with Backes and Steve House.[11][12][13] During his visits to the Alaska Range, Twight participated in a variety of high-profile rescues.[14][15] Twight was nominated for the Piolet d'Or twice during his career, in 1993 for "Beyond Good and Evil" and 1995 for "Deprivation".

On February 25, 2017, Twight received the Robert and Miriam Underhill Award from the American Alpine Club.[16] The award is given annually, "to a person who, in the opinion of the selection committee, has demonstrated the highest level of skill in the mountaineering arts and who, through the application of this skill, courage, and perseverance, has achieved outstanding success in the various fields of mountaineering endeavor."[17]

Later career

[edit]

Mark Twight was the founder of Gym Jones,[18][19] where he trained athletes (including MMA fighters, NFL players and professional cyclists), military personnel, actors and others.

He also consults as the technical director of Mountain Mobility Group, LLC, which provides "cold weather, high altitude, and fitness training, as well as R&D for the Department of Defense."[20] He was hired as the subject matter expert during the development of the Protective Combat Uniform (PCU) currently issued to special operations personnel.[21][22][23]

In 2005, Twight trained the cast and stunt crew for the movie 300,[24][25] adhering to a philosophy that "appearance is a consequence of fitness".[26] One training regimen that his crew underwent in the movie came to be known as the 300 Workout, spawning many variations by other fitness personalities and trainers.

Through Gym Jones, Twight continues to prepare actors for movie roles. His credits include, "Man of Steel", "300: Rise of an Empire", "Batman vs. Superman", "Wonder Woman" and "Justice League".[27]

The name "Gym Jones" was chosen by Twight's former wife, Lisa.[28] It is a reference to People's Temple leader Jim Jones. On the Gym Jones website, Mark Twight claims his favorite drink is Flavor Aid,[29] the same product that Jones' followers mixed with cyanide in one of the largest murder-suicides in recent history in 1978. Additionally, one of the few Gym Jones shirts available for public purchase comes with the line "there's a fine line between salvation and drinking poison in the jungle" printed on the back. Twight says that "wearing it in public will require some commitment. Some readers will be offended, while others will merely scratch their ignorant heads."[30]

Mark Twight and Michael Blevins started Nonprophet in 2018.[31] They released their first episode of The Dissect Podcast on May 11, 2018.[32]

Personal life

[edit]

After leaving climbing, Twight took up photography and competitive pistol shooting.[33][34][35] In the mid-2000s Twight competed in ski mountaineering races in Europe and the US.[36] Twight has become a dedicated and serious road cyclist following shoulder surgery in 2006.[37] He has competed in a wide range of races, from omniums and hill climbs to the grueling LOTOJA (Logan to Jackson) Classic[38] and has also written essays about cycling on his own and other websites.[39][40][41] Twight has lived in Salt Lake City, Utah since 2001.

Writing

[edit]

His first book, "Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High”[42] (1999) won the Mountain Exposition award at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival[43] and the National Outdoor Book Award.[44] "Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber"[45] (2001) won the Mountain Literature[46] category at the Banff International Mountain Book Festival, 2001, and was shortlisted at the Trento mountain book festival in Italy, 2005.[47] His personal website contains much recent writing about fitness, mental attitude, and other topics. His essays and articles have been published in seven countries, and translated into five languages.

Bibliography

[edit]
  • Kiss or Kill: Confessions of a Serial Climber ISBN 978-0-89886-887-6
  • Extreme Alpinism ISBN 978-0-89886-654-4
  • Refuge ISBN 978-1-7335180-1-7

References

[edit]
  1. ^ "Tales from Mark Twight". www.mountainzone.com.
  2. ^ Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Albi Sole 1988 2nd edition
  3. ^ Waterfall Ice: Climbs In The Canadian Rockies, Joe Josephson, 1994 Rocky Mountain Books
  4. ^ Speed Climbing! How to Climb Faster and Better, Vol 2, pp108, Hans Florine, Bill Wright 2004, Falcon Press Publishing ISBN 978-0-7627-3095-7
  5. ^ American Alpine Journal, 2001 pp145 ISBN 0-930410-89-0
  6. ^ Extreme Alpinism: Climbing, Light, Fast And High, pp 103, Mark Twight, James Martin 1999 The Mountaineers Books, ISBN 978-0-89886-887-6
  7. ^ "Mark Twight". www.mountainzone.com.
  8. ^ Ice World: Techniques and Experiences of Modern Ice Climbing, pp246, Jeff Lowe, 1996 The Mountaineers Books ISBN 978-0-89886-446-5
  9. ^ American Alpine Journal |year=1995, pp11, "Deprivation" on Mount Hunter by Mark Twight, 1995 American Alpine Club ISBN 0-930410-61-0
  10. ^ American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp131 Baby Steps: Lessons From Alaskan Alpinism by Steve House 2001, American Alpine Club ISBN 0-930410-89-0
  11. ^ American Alpine Journal |year=2001, pp48 Mt McKinley's Slovak Route by Scott Backes 2001 American Alpine Club ISBN 0-930410-89-0
  12. ^ Denali National Park Jukebox interview
  13. ^ "Steve House profile". Archived from the original on September 19, 2010.
  14. ^ "NOVA | Deadly Ascent | Dispatches | A Climber Saved (June 13, 2000) | PBS". www.pbs.org.
  15. ^ "NPS Mountaineering Summary, 1995" (PDF).
  16. ^ Magazine, Alpinist (December 12, 2016). "American Alpine Club to present five awards at its annual Benefit Dinner Feb. 25".
  17. ^ "Awards".
  18. ^ Heil, Nick (December 10, 2008). "The Hell-On-Earth Fitness Plan". Outside Online. Archived from the original on September 19, 2010.
  19. ^ Ybarra, Michael J. "Training That's Beyond Boot Camp - WSJ".
  20. ^ "Mark Twight - Discourse - Biography". Archived from the original on February 1, 2014. Retrieved January 30, 2014.
  21. ^ "PCU Alternate Source of Supply - Soldier Systems Daily". July 24, 2008.
  22. ^ "Backpacker Magazine article". Archived from the original on February 21, 2010. Retrieved October 8, 2009.
  23. ^ "Sporting Goods Business Business, February 1, 2005".
  24. ^ "300 main website".
  25. ^ "300 Video Journal No. 3". Archived from the original on July 24, 2011. Retrieved October 8, 2009.
  26. ^ Jussim, Matthew (September 9, 2021). "The 25 Most Intense Hollywood Bulk-ups of All Time". Men's Journal.
  27. ^ "Meet the Trainer Building Hollywood's Most Fit Superheroes". Vanity Fair. March 18, 2016.
  28. ^ "Gym Jones: Hollywood's trainer | Men's Fitness UK". www.mensfitness.co.uk. Archived from the original on October 11, 2013.
  29. ^ "Twight's Disciple page at Gym Jones". Archived from the original on August 9, 2007.
  30. ^ "Gym Jones T-Shirts Page". Archived from the original on March 16, 2010.
  31. ^ "nonprophet". nonprophet.
  32. ^ Unknown[permanent dead link]
  33. ^ Mark F. Twight, "Eat or Be Eaten" S.W.A.T., March 2000 (p. 60). PDF version at http://www.rangemaster.com
  34. ^ "Dane Burns: Practical Guns For Serious Users" American Handgunner, March 2001 by Mark Twight
  35. ^ "Surefire Tactics review of MARS THUG" (PDF).
  36. ^ "Gym Jones / Disciples / Mark Twight". Archived from the original on November 5, 2013. Retrieved January 30, 2014.
  37. ^ "At Mark Twight's Gym Jones, clients pick their poison". Archived from the original on February 2, 2014. Retrieved January 30, 2014.
  38. ^ "The Official Website - USA Cycling".
  39. ^ "Discourse - Mark F. Twight". Archived from the original on March 21, 2017. Retrieved March 20, 2017.
  40. ^ "Archive by Author". Archived from the original on February 3, 2014.
  41. ^ "MFT Discourse – Medium". Archived from the original on March 21, 2017.
  42. ^ Extreme Alpinism: Climbing Light, Fast and High ISBN 978-0-89886-887-6
  43. ^ "Banff Mountain Book Festival - Mountain Exposition Awards".
  44. ^ "Media Information Page: 1999 National Outdoor Book Awards". www.noba-web.org.
  45. ^ Kiss or Kill – Confessions of a Serial Climber ISBN 978-0-89886-887-6
  46. ^ "Banff International Mountain Book Festival Mountain Literature award winners".
  47. ^ 34th Premio ITAS award winners Archived July 22, 2011, at the Wayback Machine, 2005
[edit]
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