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Coordinates: 49°16′16.6″S 73°02′35.6″W / 49.271278°S 73.043222°W / -49.271278; -73.043222
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| first_ascent = 1952 by [[Lionel Terray]] & [[Guido Magnone]]
| first_ascent = 1952 by [[Lionel Terray]] & [[Guido Magnone]]
| easiest_route = [[Franco Argentina]] (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)
| easiest_route = [[Franco Argentina]] (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)
| country = [[Argentina]]<br/>[[Chile]]
}}
}}
'''Monte Fitz Roy''' (also known as '''Cerro Chaltén''', '''Cerro Fitz Roy''', or simply '''Mount Fitz Roy''') is a [[mountain]] in [[Patagonia]], on the border between [[Argentina]] and [[Chile]].<ref name="Acuerdo1998" /><ref name=Difrol>{{Cite web |url=http://www.difrol.cl/region-de-magallanes-y-de-la-antartica-chilena/monte-fitz-roy.html |title=Mount Fitz Roy - Difrol.cl |access-date=26 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180824183304/http://www.difrol.cl/region-de-magallanes-y-de-la-antartica-chilena/monte-fitz-roy.html |archive-date=24 August 2018 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name=AndesHandBook>[http://www.andeshandbook.org/montanismo/cerro/55/Fitz_Roy MONTE FITZ ROY] ''Andes Hand Book, www.andeshandbook.org'', accessed 21 June 2021</ref><ref name=Lugares>[https://101lugaresincreibles.com/2012/06/la-montana-que-parece-echar-humo-fitz-roy-en-la-patagonia-argentina.html La montaña que parece echar humo, en la Patagonia]</ref><ref name=InterPatagonia>[https://www.interpatagonia.com/elchalten/contemplacion-cerro-fitz-roy.html La silueta del Fitz Roy] ''www.interpatagonia.com'', accessed 21 June 2021</ref> It is located in the [[Southern Patagonian Ice Field]], near [[El Chaltén]] village and [[Viedma Lake]]. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists [[Lionel Terray]] and [[:fr:Guido Magnone|Guido Magnone]].
'''Monte Fitz Roy''' (also known as '''Cerro Chaltén''', '''Cerro Fitz Roy''', or simply '''Mount Fitz Roy''') is a [[mountain]] in [[Patagonia]], on the border between [[Argentina]] and [[Chile]].<ref name="Acuerdo1998" /><ref name=Difrol>{{Cite web |url=http://www.difrol.cl/region-de-magallanes-y-de-la-antartica-chilena/monte-fitz-roy.html |title=Mount Fitz Roy - Difrol.cl |access-date=26 June 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180824183304/http://www.difrol.cl/region-de-magallanes-y-de-la-antartica-chilena/monte-fitz-roy.html |archive-date=24 August 2018 |url-status=dead }}</ref><ref name=AndesHandBook>[http://www.andeshandbook.org/montanismo/cerro/55/Fitz_Roy MONTE FITZ ROY] ''Andes Hand Book, www.andeshandbook.org'', accessed 21 June 2021</ref><ref name=Lugares>[https://101lugaresincreibles.com/2012/06/la-montana-que-parece-echar-humo-fitz-roy-en-la-patagonia-argentina.html La montaña que parece echar humo, en la Patagonia]</ref><ref name=InterPatagonia>[https://www.interpatagonia.com/elchalten/contemplacion-cerro-fitz-roy.html La silueta del Fitz Roy] ''www.interpatagonia.com'', accessed 21 June 2021</ref> It is located in the [[Southern Patagonian Ice Field]], near [[El Chaltén]] village and [[Viedma Lake]]. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists [[Lionel Terray]] and [[:fr:Guido Magnone|Guido Magnone]].


==European discovery==
==First European encounter==
The first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions, who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783. Argentine explorer [[Francisco Moreno]] saw the mountain on 2 March 1877; he named it Fitz Roy in honour of [[Robert FitzRoy]] who, as captain of {{HMS|Beagle}}, had travelled up the [[Santa Cruz River (Argentina)|Santa Cruz River]] in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.<ref name="Moreno1879">{{cite book|last=Moreno|first=FP|author-link=Francisco Moreno|title=Viaje a la Patagonia Austral|page=2|publisher=La Nacion (Elefante Blanco)|year=2006|orig-year=1879|language=es|isbn=987-96054-7-0|quote=Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano}}</ref>
The first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions, who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783. Argentine explorer [[Francisco Moreno]] saw the mountain on 2 March 1877; he named it Fitz Roy in honour of [[Robert FitzRoy]] who, as captain of {{HMS|Beagle}}, had travelled up the [[Santa Cruz River (Argentina)|Santa Cruz River]] in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.<ref name="Moreno1879">{{cite book|last=Moreno|first=FP|author-link=Francisco Moreno|title=Viaje a la Patagonia Austral|page=2|publisher=La Nacion (Elefante Blanco)|year=2006|orig-year=1879|language=es|isbn=987-96054-7-0|quote=Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano}}</ref>


''Cerro'' is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill, while ''Chaltén'' comes from a [[Tehuelche language|Tehuelche]] (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", because a cloud usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.<ref name="Moreno1879" />
''Cerro'' is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill, while ''Chaltén'' comes from a [[Tehuelche language|Tehuelche]] (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", because a cloud usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.<ref name="Moreno1879" />


==Setting==
==Geography==
Argentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,<ref name=Acuerdo1998>{{cite web|title=Border agreement between Chile and Argentina to determine the border from Mount Fitz Roy to Daudet|year=1998|url=http://www.difrol.cl/argentina/acuerdo-para-precisar-el-recorrido-del-limite-desde-el-monte-fitz-roy-hasta-el-cerro-daudet.html|access-date=7 August 2006|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160531163246/http://www.difrol.cl/argentina/acuerdo-para-precisar-el-recorrido-del-limite-desde-el-monte-fitz-roy-hasta-el-cerro-daudet.html|archive-date=31 May 2016}}</ref> but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.<ref>{{cite web|title=Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)|url=http://www.turismovirtual.cl/xii/xii.html|access-date=26 June 2016}}</ref> The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine [[Santa Cruz Province, Argentina|Santa Cruz Province]], which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms.
Argentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,<ref name=Acuerdo1998>{{cite web|title=Border agreement between Chile and Argentina to determine the border from Mount Fitz Roy to Daudet|year=1998|url=http://www.difrol.cl/argentina/acuerdo-para-precisar-el-recorrido-del-limite-desde-el-monte-fitz-roy-hasta-el-cerro-daudet.html|access-date=7 August 2006|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160531163246/http://www.difrol.cl/argentina/acuerdo-para-precisar-el-recorrido-del-limite-desde-el-monte-fitz-roy-hasta-el-cerro-daudet.html|archive-date=31 May 2016}}</ref> but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.<ref>{{cite web|title=Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)|url=http://www.turismovirtual.cl/xii/xii.html|access-date=26 June 2016}}</ref> The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine [[Santa Cruz Province, Argentina|Santa Cruz Province]], which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms.


On February 27, 2014, Chile's [[National Forestry Corporation]] created the ''[[Chaltén Mountain Range Natural Site]]'' by Resolution No. 74, which covers the Chilean side of Mount Fitz Roy and the surrounding mountain range.<ref>{{cite web |title=RESOLUCIÓN NOº:74/2014 |url=https://ia601609.us.archive.org/11/items/resolucion-n-74-2014-de-conaf-que-crea-sitios-en-parque-nacional-bernardo-ohiggins/Resoluci%C3%B3n%20N%C2%B0%2074%202014%20de%20CONAF%20que%20crea%20sitios%20en%20Parque%20Nacional%20Bernardo%20OHiggins.pdf |publisher=Corporación Nacional Forestal |access-date=February 6, 2023 |language=es |date=February 27, 2014}}</ref>
Nevertheless, most of the summit remains in uncontested argentinian territory, including it's famous peak -wich is faily inaccessible from the Chilean side- and even enjoying it's sight remains -in practical terms- pretty much restricted to the western slopes of the Andes.

It's thus generally considered a landscape of the Argentine republic.


==Notable ascents==
==Notable ascents==
⚫
[[File:Fitz Roy y laguna Capri.JPG|thumb|x200px|Fitz Roy and Lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares]]
* 1952, Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (''Franco-Argentine Ridge'') (first ascent - 2 February 1952)<ref>{{cite web|last=Silleck|first=H|title=Patagonia: Fitzroy|work=Summitpost.org|publisher=Summitpost.org|date=3 February 2007|url=http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/153622/fitzroy.html|access-date=2 February 2009}}</ref>
* 1965, Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via ''Supercanaleta'' (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in {{frac|2|1|2}} days (second ascent)<ref name="MacDonald">{{cite web|last=MacDonald|first=D|title=Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta|work=Climbing Hot Flashes|publisher=Climbing Magazine|date=15 January 2009|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/haley-solos-fitz-roys-supercanaleta/|access-date=15 August 2016}}</ref>
* 1952, Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (''Franco-Argentine Ridge'') (first ascent - 2 February 1952).<ref>{{cite web|last=Silleck|first=H|title=Patagonia: Fitzroy|work=Summitpost.org|publisher=Summitpost.org|date=3 February 2007|url=http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/153622/fitzroy.html|access-date=2 February 2009}}</ref>
* 1968, Southwest Ridge aka ''The Californian Route'' (third ascent). Ascent by the "Fun Hogs": [[Yvon Chouinard]] (who went on to found outdoor clothing and equipment company [[Patagonia, Inc.|Patagonia]] and climbing equipment company [[Black Diamond Equipment]]), [[Dick Dorworth]], Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores (filmmaker, whose 16mm [[Bolex]] camera footage of the ascent was used for the film of the expedition entitled ''Mountain of Storms'') and [[Douglas Tompkins]] (who, in 1964, had co-founded outdoor equipment and clothing company [[The North Face]]).<ref>{{Cite journal|last=Thompkins|first=D|last2=Carter|first2=HA|title=Fitz Roy, 1968|journal=American Alpine Journal |volume=16|issue=43|pages=263–9|year=1969}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.patagonia.com.au/blogs/roaring-journals/mountain-of-storms|title=Mountain of Storms|last=Patagonia|website=Patagonia|language=en|access-date=7 April 2020}}</ref>
* 1965, Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via ''Supercanaleta'' (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in {{frac|2|1|2}} days (second ascent).<ref name="MacDonald">{{cite web|last=MacDonald|first=D|title=Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta|work=Climbing Hot Flashes|publisher=Climbing Magazine|date=15 January 2009|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/haley-solos-fitz-roys-supercanaleta/|access-date=15 August 2016}}</ref>
* 1968, Southwest Ridge aka ''The Californian Route'' (third ascent). Ascent by the "Fun Hogs": [[Yvon Chouinard]] (who went on to found outdoor clothing and equipment company [[Patagonia, Inc.|Patagonia]] and climbing equipment company [[Black Diamond Equipment]]), [[Dick Dorworth]], Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores (filmmaker, whose 16mm [[Bolex]] camera footage of the ascent was used for the film of the expedition entitled ''Mountain of Storms'') and [[Douglas Tompkins]] (who, in 1964, had co-founded outdoor equipment and clothing company [[The North Face]]).<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Thompkins|first1=D|last2=Carter|first2=HA|title=Fitz Roy, 1968|journal=American Alpine Journal |volume=16|issue=43|pages=263–9|year=1969}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.patagonia.com.au/blogs/roaring-journals/mountain-of-storms|title=Mountain of Storms|last=Patagonia|website=Patagonia|language=en|access-date=7 April 2020|archive-date=7 April 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200407232756/https://www.patagonia.com.au/blogs/roaring-journals/mountain-of-storms|url-status=dead}}</ref>
* 1972, Southeast Ridge (fourth ascent). Ian Wade (U.S.), Dave Nicol (UK), [[Mo Anthoine]] (UK), Guy Lee (UK), Larry Derby (U.S.) & Eddie Birch (UK).
* 1972, Southeast Ridge (fourth ascent). Ian Wade (U.S.), Dave Nicol (UK), [[Mo Anthoine]] (UK), Guy Lee (UK), Larry Derby (U.S.) & Eddie Birch (UK).
* 1980, following the ''Col Americano'' route, Gino Casassa (Chile, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile) and [[Walter Bertsch]] (Austria) arrived at the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean) climbed to 2,800&nbsp;m.<ref>{{cite web|title=First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros Alpinos.cl|url=http://www.perrosalpinos.cl/relatoshistoricos-fitzroy.html|access-date=21 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160610131646/http://www.perrosalpinos.cl/relatoshistoricos-fitzroy.html|archive-date=10 June 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>
* 1980, following the ''Col Americano'' route, Gino Casassa (Chile, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile) and Walter Bertsch (Austria) arrived at the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean) climbed to 2,800&nbsp;m.<ref>{{cite web|title=First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros Alpinos.cl|url=http://www.perrosalpinos.cl/relatoshistoricos-fitzroy.html|access-date=21 May 2016|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160610131646/http://www.perrosalpinos.cl/relatoshistoricos-fitzroy.html|archive-date=10 June 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref>
* 1984, Polaca Route by Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco Dasal, Michal Kochanczyk, Jacek Kozaczkiewicz and Piotr Lutynski (Poland), 24/12/1984. 900m 6a A2. This route is still unrepeated.<ref>{{Cite web |title=PATAclimb.com - Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, Polish route |url=https://www.pataclimb.com/climbingareas/chalten/fitzgroup/fitz/polish.html |access-date=2023-09-30 |website=www.pataclimb.com}}</ref>
* 1984, Franco Argentina Route by [[Marcos Couch]], Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendinger, and Pedro Friedrich.
* 1984, Franco Argentina Route by [[Marcos Couch]], Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendinger, and Pedro Friedrich.
* 1986, First winter ascent, in July, by Argentines Eduardo Brenner, Sebastián De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, over three days via ''Supercanaleta''.
* 1986, First winter ascent, in July, by Argentines Eduardo Brenner, Sebastián De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, over three days via ''Supercanaleta''.
Line 52: Line 53:
* 2009, [[Colin Haley]], solo via ''Supercanaleta''<ref name="MacDonald"/>
* 2009, [[Colin Haley]], solo via ''Supercanaleta''<ref name="MacDonald"/>
* 2009, Matthew McCarron, solo via ''The Californian Route'' <ref name="MacDonald"/>
* 2009, Matthew McCarron, solo via ''The Californian Route'' <ref name="MacDonald"/>
⚫
* 2014, Between 12 and 16 February, [[Tommy Caldwell]] and [[Alex Honnold]] completed the first ascent of the much discussed "Fitz Traverse", climbing across the iconic ridge line of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks.<ref name="MacDonald2">{{cite web|last=MacDonald|first=D|title=Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse|work=Climbing News|publisher=Climbing Magazine|date=18 February 2014|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/caldwell-honnold-complete-fitz-traverse/|access-date=15 August 2016}}</ref> The route is 5 kilometers long and has approximately 4,000 meters of vertical elevation, with routes ranging in difficulty up to 5.11d.<ref>Garibotti, R. (18 February 2014). [http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14w/newswire-fitz-traverse-caldwell-honnold Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse]. ''www.alpinist.com'' Retrieved 5 September 2018</ref>
⚫
*2019, Jim Reynolds, free solo.<ref name="Levy2019">{{cite web |last1=Levy |first1=Michael |title=Jim Reynolds’ Fitz Roy Free Solo: Putting it in Perspective with the Pros |url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/jim-reynolds-fitz-roy-free-solo-putting-it-in-perspective-with-the-pros/ |website=Rock and Ice |access-date=24 January 2021 |date=9 April 2019}}</ref>
⚫
*2021, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll completed the second ascent and first solo ascent of the "Fitz Traverse", completing the route in reverse.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Slavsky|first=Bennett|title=Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/sean-villanueva-odriscoll-completes-the-fitz-traverse-solo/|access-date=2021-02-13|website=Climbing Magazine|language=en-us}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Patagonia Climbing on Instagram: "Congrats to @seanvillanuevaodriscoll, who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse... alone, with only a rope, a penny whistle and some…"|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/CLLB8R2LZLB/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/CLLB8R2LZLB |archive-date=2021-12-24 |url-access=limited|access-date=2021-02-13|website=Instagram|language=en}}{{cbignore}}</ref>


⚫
* 2014, Between 12 and 16 February, [[Tommy Caldwell]] and [[Alex Honnold]] completed the first full [[traverse (climbing)#In mountaineering|traverse]] highly prized, ''Fitz Roy Traverse'', climbing across the ridge line of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks.<ref name="MacDonald2">{{cite web|last=MacDonald|first=D|title=Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse|work=Climbing News|publisher=Climbing Magazine|date=18 February 2014|url=http://www.climbing.com/news/caldwell-honnold-complete-fitz-traverse/|access-date=15 August 2016}}</ref> The route is 5 kilometers long and has approximately 4,000 meters of [[cumulative elevation gain]], with technical climbing of up to 5.11d (7a). They were both awarded the [[Piolet d'Or]] for their climb.<ref>Garibotti, R. (18 February 2014). [http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web14w/newswire-fitz-traverse-caldwell-honnold Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse]. ''www.alpinist.com'' Retrieved 5 September 2018</ref>
==Gallery==
⚫
*2019, Jim Reynolds, free solo.<ref name="Levy2019">{{cite web |last1=Levy |first1=Michael |title=Jim Reynolds' Fitz Roy Free Solo: Putting it in Perspective with the Pros |url=https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/jim-reynolds-fitz-roy-free-solo-putting-it-in-perspective-with-the-pros/ |website=Rock and Ice |access-date=24 January 2021 |date=9 April 2019}}</ref>
<gallery heights="200" mode="packed">

File:165 - Fitz Roy - Janvier 2010 - Downsample.jpg|Panorama of Monte Fitz Roy in the morning
⚫
*2021, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll completed the second ascent and first solo ascent of the traverse but completed the route in reverse, which he called the ''Moonwalk Traverse''.<ref>{{Cite web|last=Slavsky|first=Bennett|title=Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo|url=https://www.climbing.com/news/sean-villanueva-odriscoll-completes-the-fitz-traverse-solo/|access-date=2021-02-13|website=Climbing Magazine|date=12 February 2021 |language=en-us}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|title=Patagonia Climbing on Instagram: "Congrats to @seanvillanuevaodriscoll, who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse... alone, with only a rope, a penny whistle and some…"|url=https://www.instagram.com/p/CLLB8R2LZLB/ |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/iarchive/s/instagram/CLLB8R2LZLB |archive-date=2021-12-24 |url-access=limited|access-date=2021-02-13|website=Instagram|language=en}}{{cbignore}}</ref> He was awarded a [[Piolet d'Or]] award in 2022.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.montagnes-magazine.com/actus-piolets-or-2022-trio-georgien-saraghrar-solo-belge-fitz-roy-mention-speciale-annapurna-iii|title=Piolets d'Or 2022 : trio géorgien au Saraghrar, solo belge au Fitz Roy et mention spéciale pour l'Annapurna III|website=Montagne Magazine|access-date=2022-10-14}}</ref>
File:Monte Fitz Roy, El Chalten, Santa Cruz, Argentina.JPG|Mount Fitz Roy, 2015

⚫
File:Fitz Roy y laguna Capri.JPG|Fitz Roy and lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - 2015
* 2022, [[Colin Haley]], first solo winter ascent of the ''Supercanaleta Route'' on Fitz Roy.<ref name="colinhaleysolowinter">
File:Laguna de Los Tres Panorama.jpg|Fitz Roy and Laguna de Los Tres Panorama - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares - 2016
{{cite web | url = https://www.climbing.com/news/colin-haley-solos-fitz-roy-patagonia-winter/
File:Monte Fitz Roy 19Mar2018 SkySat.jpg|Off-nadir satellite image of Fitz Roy
| title = Colin Haley on the First Winter Solo of 'Supercanaleta,' Patagonian Classic | date = 3 October 2022
</gallery>
| publisher = Climbing | access-date = 30 October 2022}}</ref>


==See also==
==See also==
{{Portal|Andes}}
{{Portal|Andes}}
* [[Chaltén Mountain Range Natural Site]]
* [[Villa O'Higgins]]
* [[Villa O'Higgins]]
* [[Candelario Mancilla]]
* [[Candelario Mancilla]]
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*{{cite peakware|id=82|name=Fitz Roy}}
*{{cite peakware|id=82|name=Fitz Roy}}
*[http://www.patagonia.com.ar/santacruz/elchalten/fitzroy.php Monte Fitz Roy in History] {{in lang|es}}
*[http://www.patagonia.com.ar/santacruz/elchalten/fitzroy.php Monte Fitz Roy in History] {{in lang|es}}
*[https://www.google.com/maps/contrib/109115074638815197564/photos/@-49.2712309,-73.0432241,3a,75y,359h,90t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sAF1QipMLrFsiTz3oHTbXUr5uquu8o855KQzil_2AA377!2e10!6shttps:%2F%2Flh5.googleusercontent.com%2Fp%2FAF1QipMLrFsiTz3oHTbXUr5uquu8o855KQzil_2AA377%3Dw365-h260-k-no-pi-0-ya323.5-ro-0-fo100!7i8704!8i4352!4m3!8m2!3m1!1e1 Fitz Roy Summit Google Photo Sphere 3Feb2019]
*[https://goo.gl/maps/12AahSBvNNq Fitz Roy Summit Google Photo Sphere 3Feb2019]


{{Authority control}}
{{Authority control}}
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[[Category:International mountains of South America]]
[[Category:International mountains of South America]]
[[Category:Three-thousanders of the Andes]]
[[Category:Three-thousanders of the Andes]]
[[Category:Climbing areas of Argentina]]
[[Category:Climbing areas of Chile]]

Latest revision as of 17:00, 25 July 2024

This article is about the mountain. For other uses, see Fitzroy (disambiguation).

Monte Fitz Roy
Monte Fitz Roy in 2013
Highest point
Elevation3,405 m (11,171 ft)[1]
Prominence1,951 m (6,401 ft)[1]
ListingUltra
Coordinates49°16′16.6″S 73°02′35.6″W / 49.271278°S 73.043222°W / -49.271278; -73.043222
Geography
Monte Fitz Roy is located in Southern Patagonia
Monte Fitz Roy
Monte Fitz Roy
Location in the Southern Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile[2][3][4][5]
StandortPatagonia, Argentina—Chile border[2][3][4][5]
LandArgentina
Chile
Parent rangeAndes
Geology
Mountain typeGranite
Climbing
First ascent1952 by Lionel Terray & Guido Magnone
Easiest routeFranco Argentina (650m., 6a+, 6c/A1)

Monte Fitz Roy (also known as Cerro Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, or simply Mount Fitz Roy) is a mountain in Patagonia, on the border between Argentina and Chile.[2][3][6][4][5] It is located in the Southern Patagonian Ice Field, near El Chaltén village and Viedma Lake. It was first climbed in 1952 by French alpinists Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone.

First European encounter

[edit]

The first Europeans recorded as seeing Mount Fitz Roy were the Spanish explorer Antonio de Viedma and his companions, who reached the shores of Viedma Lake in 1783. Argentine explorer Francisco Moreno saw the mountain on 2 March 1877; he named it Fitz Roy in honour of Robert FitzRoy who, as captain of HMS Beagle, had travelled up the Santa Cruz River in 1834 and charted large parts of the Patagonian coast.[7]

Cerro is a Spanish word meaning ridge or hill, while Chaltén comes from a Tehuelche (Aonikenk) word meaning "smoking mountain", because a cloud usually forms around the mountain's peak. Fitz Roy is one of several peaks the Tehuelche called Chaltén.[7]

Geography

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Argentina and Chile have agreed that their international border detours eastwards to pass over the main summit,[2] but a large part of the border to the south of the summit, as far as Cerro Murallón, remains undefined.[8] The mountain is the symbol of the Argentine Santa Cruz Province, which includes its representation on its flag and its coat of arms.

On February 27, 2014, Chile's National Forestry Corporation created the Chaltén Mountain Range Natural Site by Resolution No. 74, which covers the Chilean side of Mount Fitz Roy and the surrounding mountain range.[9]

Notable ascents

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Fitz Roy and Lake Capri - Parque Nacional Los Glaciares
  • 1952, Lionel Terray and Guido Magnone via Southeast Ridge (Franco-Argentine Ridge) (first ascent - 2 February 1952).[10]
  • 1965, Carlos Comesaña and José Luis Fonrouge (from Argentina) via Supercanaleta (1,600m, TD+ 5.10 90deg) in 2+1⁄2 days (second ascent).[11]
  • 1968, Southwest Ridge aka The Californian Route (third ascent). Ascent by the "Fun Hogs": Yvon Chouinard (who went on to found outdoor clothing and equipment company Patagonia and climbing equipment company Black Diamond Equipment), Dick Dorworth, Chris Jones, Lito Tejada-Flores (filmmaker, whose 16mm Bolex camera footage of the ascent was used for the film of the expedition entitled Mountain of Storms) and Douglas Tompkins (who, in 1964, had co-founded outdoor equipment and clothing company The North Face).[12][13]
  • 1972, Southeast Ridge (fourth ascent). Ian Wade (U.S.), Dave Nicol (UK), Mo Anthoine (UK), Guy Lee (UK), Larry Derby (U.S.) & Eddie Birch (UK).
  • 1980, following the Col Americano route, Gino Casassa (Chile, monitor of the Andinism Federation of Chile) and Walter Bertsch (Austria) arrived at the peak together. Alejandro Izquierdo (Chilean) climbed to 2,800 m.[14]
  • 1984, Polaca Route by Wieslaw Burzynski, Miroslaw Falco Dasal, Michal Kochanczyk, Jacek Kozaczkiewicz and Piotr Lutynski (Poland), 24/12/1984. 900m 6a A2. This route is still unrepeated.[15]
  • 1984, Franco Argentina Route by Marcos Couch, Eduardo Brenner, Alberto Bendinger, and Pedro Friedrich.
  • 1986, First winter ascent, in July, by Argentines Eduardo Brenner, Sebastián De La Cruz and Gabriel Ruiz, over three days via Supercanaleta.
  • 1990, First winter solo ascent, in July, by Yasushi Yamanoi.
  • 2002, Dean Potter, first free solo, via Supercanaleta[11][16]
  • 2009, Colin Haley, solo via Supercanaleta[11]
  • 2009, Matthew McCarron, solo via The Californian Route [11]
  • 2014, Between 12 and 16 February, Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the first full traverse highly prized, Fitz Roy Traverse, climbing across the ridge line of Fitz Roy and its satellite peaks.[17] The route is 5 kilometers long and has approximately 4,000 meters of cumulative elevation gain, with technical climbing of up to 5.11d (7a). They were both awarded the Piolet d'Or for their climb.[18]
  • 2019, Jim Reynolds, free solo.[16]
  • 2021, Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll completed the second ascent and first solo ascent of the traverse but completed the route in reverse, which he called the Moonwalk Traverse.[19][20] He was awarded a Piolet d'Or award in 2022.[21]
  • 2022, Colin Haley, first solo winter ascent of the Supercanaleta Route on Fitz Roy.[22]

See also

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References

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  1. ^ a b "Argentina and Chile, Southern - Patagonia Ultra Prominences". Peaklist.org. Retrieved 5 October 2013.
  2. ^ a b c d "Border agreement between Chile and Argentina to determine the border from Mount Fitz Roy to Daudet". 1998. Archived from the original on 31 May 2016. Retrieved 7 August 2006.
  3. ^ a b c "Mount Fitz Roy - Difrol.cl". Archived from the original on 24 August 2018. Retrieved 26 June 2016.
  4. ^ a b c La montaña que parece echar humo, en la Patagonia
  5. ^ a b c La silueta del Fitz Roy www.interpatagonia.com, accessed 21 June 2021
  6. ^ MONTE FITZ ROY Andes Hand Book, www.andeshandbook.org, accessed 21 June 2021
  7. ^ a b Moreno, FP (2006) [1879]. Viaje a la Patagonia Austral (in Spanish). La Nacion (Elefante Blanco). p. 2. ISBN 987-96054-7-0. Como este volcán activo no ha sido mencionado por los navegantes ni viajeros, y como el nombre de Chaltén que le dan los indios lo aplican también a otras montañas, me permito llamarle volcán Fitz Roy - English: Since this active volcano has not been mentioned by navigators or travellers, and since the name Chalten that the Indians call it is also applied to other mountains, I allow myself to name it Fitz Roy volcano
  8. ^ "Map showing the border between Chile and Argentina (partly undefined)". Retrieved 26 June 2016.
  9. ^ "RESOLUCIÓN NOº:74/2014" (PDF) (in Spanish). Corporación Nacional Forestal. 27 February 2014. Retrieved 6 February 2023.
  10. ^ Silleck, H (3 February 2007). "Patagonia: Fitzroy". Summitpost.org. Summitpost.org. Retrieved 2 February 2009.
  11. ^ a b c d MacDonald, D (15 January 2009). "Haley Solos Fitz Roy's Supercanaleta". Climbing Hot Flashes. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
  12. ^ Thompkins, D; Carter, HA (1969). "Fitz Roy, 1968". American Alpine Journal. 16 (43): 263–9.
  13. ^ Patagonia. "Mountain of Storms". Patagonia. Archived from the original on 7 April 2020. Retrieved 7 April 2020.
  14. ^ "First chilean climb of Mount Fitz Roy - Perros Alpinos.cl". Archived from the original on 10 June 2016. Retrieved 21 May 2016.
  15. ^ "PATAclimb.com - Chaltén, Cerro Fitz Roy, Polish route". www.pataclimb.com. Retrieved 30 September 2023.
  16. ^ a b Levy, Michael (9 April 2019). "Jim Reynolds' Fitz Roy Free Solo: Putting it in Perspective with the Pros". Rock and Ice. Retrieved 24 January 2021.
  17. ^ MacDonald, D (18 February 2014). "Caldwell, Honnold Complete Fitz Traverse". Climbing News. Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 15 August 2016.
  18. ^ Garibotti, R. (18 February 2014). Caldwell, Honnold Finish 5k Fitz Roy Traverse. www.alpinist.com Retrieved 5 September 2018
  19. ^ Slavsky, Bennett (12 February 2021). "Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll Completes The Fitz Traverse Solo". Climbing Magazine. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
  20. ^ "Patagonia Climbing on Instagram: "Congrats to @seanvillanuevaodriscoll, who just completed the Reverse Fitz Traverse... alone, with only a rope, a penny whistle and some…"". Instagram. Archived from the original on 24 December 2021. Retrieved 13 February 2021.
  21. ^ "Piolets d'Or 2022 : trio géorgien au Saraghrar, solo belge au Fitz Roy et mention spéciale pour l'Annapurna III". Montagne Magazine. Retrieved 14 October 2022.
  22. ^ "Colin Haley on the First Winter Solo of 'Supercanaleta,' Patagonian Classic". Climbing. 3 October 2022. Retrieved 30 October 2022.

Further reading

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  • Kearney A, 1993. Mountaineering in Patagonia. Seattle, Washington: Cloudcap.
  • Terray L, Conquistadors of the Useless, p. 307-8, Victor Gollancz Ltd., 1963. ISBN 0-89886-778-9
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