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[[File:Regular_Haircut.JPG|thumb|200px|Regular haircut]]
[[File:Regular_Haircut.JPG|thumb|200px|Regular haircut]]
A '''regular haircut''' is a men's and boy's hairstyle that has combable length on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a [[Regular_haircut#Short|short]], [[Regular_haircut#Semi-Short|semi-short]], [[Regular_haircut#Medium|medium]], [[Regular_haircut#Long|long]], or [[Regular_haircut#Extra Long|extra long]] back and sides.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=129-131}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133-139}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98-101}} The style is also known by other names including '''taper cut''', '''regular taper cut''', '''side-part''' and '''standard haircut'''; as well as '''short back and sides''', '''business-man cut''' and '''professional cut''', subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=188}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=122}}{{sfn|Stewart|2003|p=188}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The three elements of a regular haircut are edging, siding and topping.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=61-62}} Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns around the ears and across the nape of the neck.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=62-63}} Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=68}} Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=70}} Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=61}} Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=62-63}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118-120}} There are other methods that can be utilized including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=133-134}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=113-115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=113-115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=103}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=110-111}} A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} {{sfn|Moler|1928|p=90}}
A '''regular haircut''' is a men's and boy's hairstyle that has combable length on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a [[Regular_haircut#Short|short]], [[Regular_haircut#Semi-Short|semi-short]], [[Regular_haircut#Medium|medium]], [[Regular_haircut#Long|long]], or [[Regular_haircut#Extra Long|extra long]] back and sides.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=129-131}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133-139}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98-101}} The style is also known by other names including '''taper cut''', '''regular taper cut''', '''side-part''' and '''standard haircut'''; as well as '''short back and sides''', '''business-man cut''' and '''professional cut''', subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=188}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=122}}{{sfn|Stewart|2003|p=188}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The three elements of a regular haircut are edging, siding and topping.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=61-62}} Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns around the ears and across the nape of the neck.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=62-63}} Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=68}} Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=70}} Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=61}} Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=62-63}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118-120}} There are other methods that can be utilized including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=133-134}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=113-115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=113-115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=103}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=110-111}} A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut, has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}} The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=97}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=90}} The shape and height of the neck edge are important design elements that can affect the appearance of the neck, chin, ears, profile and overall style. Generally speaking, a shorter neck or chin suits a somewhat higher neck edge; a longer neck or chin suits a somewhat lower neck edge. An extra wide neck suits a somewhat narrower neck edge while a thinner neck or protruding ears suit a wider neck edge.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=132-137}}
<div style="margin-top:75px;">
<div style="margin-top:10px;">
== Tapers ==
== Tapers ==
===Short===
{| align="center"
[[File:Short_Tapered_Back_And_Sides.JPG|thumb|80px]]
|-
Other names for this style of taper include '''full crown''', '''tight cut''', and '''fade'''.{{sfn|Booker|1892|p=24}}{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=50}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=40-43}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100}}{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=282}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100-103}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=129}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98}} Sideburns, which may not be visible at the time of the haircut depending on the color, thickness and density of the hair, skin tone and fine clipper blade used, are maintained short between haircuts. Short sideburns extend to the area where the ear cartilage attaches to the skull or slightly lower if ear shape requires to allow a sideburn to be defined.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=128, 129}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=89-90, 135-136}} Can be worn with a regular haircut, [[crew cut]], [[Ivy League (haircut)|ivy league]], [[flattop|flat top crew cut]], [[butch cut|butch]], [[butch cut|brush cut]], [[butch cut|burr]] and other styles; and often the choice with these styles during the summer.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=129, 132, 133, 135, 142, 143}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=108, 110, 113}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
|[[File:Short_Tapered_Back_And_Sides.JPG|thumb|x125px|Short|link=#Short]]
<div style="margin-top:10px;">
|[[File:Semi_short_taper_basketball.jpg|thumb|x125px|Semi-Short|link=#Semi-Short]]
|[[File:Medium_Taper_Cut._Kennedy.jpg|thumb|x125px|Medium|link=#Medium]]
|[[File:Long_Taper_Cut_1943.JPG|thumb|x125px|Long|link=#Long]]
|[[File:Extra_Long_Taper_Cut.jpg|thumb|x125px|Extra Long|link=#Extra Long]]
|}


=== Short ===
===Semi-Short===
[[File:Semi_short_taper_basketball.jpg|thumb|95px]]
Other names for this style of taper include '''full crown''', '''tight cut''', and '''fade'''.{{sfn|Booker|1892|p=24}}{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=50}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=40-43}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100}}{{sfn|Scali-Snipes|1999|p=282}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=133}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=100-103}}{{sfn|Thorpe|1958|p=129}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=98}} Often worn by men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
Also known as a '''half crown'''.{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=51}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91-99}} {{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} Sideburns are generally worn short as the hair grows out or slightly longer than short but not quite medium.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=128, 130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=89=90, 135-136}} Blending at the upper sides can utilize clipper over comb or shears over comb techniques.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118, 119}} While a semi-short taper can be worn with a regular haircut, it is very common with an ivy league, crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch, brush cut, or burr.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130, 132, 133, 142-143}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=108, 110, 113}}
<div style="margin-top:10px;">


=== Semi-Short ===
===Medium===
[[File:Medium_Taper_Cut._Kennedy.jpg|thumb|105px]]
Also known as a '''half crown'''.{{sfn|Modern Barber College|1946|p=51}}{{sfn|Moler|1905|p=41-45}}{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91}} The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=91-99}} {{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} The half crown is favored by certain men and boys during the summer.{{sfn|Moler|1928|p=94}}
A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} The lower edge of hair growth at the nape can alternatively be blocked off in a squared or rounded pattern.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}} Medium sideburns are appropriate with face shapes that are neither long or short. Medium sideburns extend to the top of the ear orifice.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=128}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=89-90, 135-136}} The hair on the middle part of the back and sides can be shortened, thinned and blended using a variety of methods including shears over comb, clipper over comb, thinning shears method, slithering with standard barber's shears, shear point tapering or razor methods.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118-119, 121}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=68-69}} A common style with a regular haircut, medium pompadour or ivy league and also worn with a crew cut or flattop.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130, 132-133, 144}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=108, 110}}

<div style="margin-top:10px;">
=== Medium ===
A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=130}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
=== Long ===
===Long===
[[File:Long_Taper_Cut_1943.JPG|thumb|105px]]
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}}
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99}} A long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern instead of being tapered to the skin.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=115}} Long sideburns are appropriate for average face shapes. Long sideburns extend to the middle of the ear opening. When slightly longer sideburns are worn than are appropriate for a style, it can shorten the appearance of the face; when slightly shorter sideburns are worn than are appropriate, it can lengthen the appearance of the face; therefore, the appearance of a face that is shorter or longer than average, in particular when due to the length of the chin or lower face, can be normalized by altering the length of the sideburns.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=128, 131}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=89-90, 135-136}} The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118-119, 121}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=68-69}} Most frequently worn with a regular haircut or a long pompadour.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=131, 145-146}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-101}}
<div style="margin-top:10px;">


=== Extra Long ===
===Extra Long===
[[File:Extra_Long_Taper_Cut.jpg|thumb|90px]]
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-100}}
A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-100}} An extra long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern; a deconstructed arch around the ears and a deconstructed or shaggy block at the nape are also quite common.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99-101}} Extra long sideburns are appropriate; extra long sideburns extend to the top of the ear lobe.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=89-90, 135-136}} The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.{{sfn|Thorpe|1967|p=118-119, 121}}{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=68-69}} Apart from being worn with a regular haircut, also worn with an extra long pompadour.{{sfn|Trusty|1971|p=99, 101}}
<div style="margin-top:5px;">


==Guards and Blades==
==Guards and Blades==
Line 35: Line 36:


===Blades===
===Blades===
[[File:Thomas Müller, Germany national football team (07).jpg|thumb|400px|Long]]
[[File:Lt. John F. Kennedy skipper aboard the PT-109.jpg|thumb|300px|Medium]]
'''Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades):'''
'''Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades):'''


Line 81: Line 84:


==See also==
==See also==
[[File:Audrey Hepburn and Cary Grant 1.jpg|thumb|220px|Medium-long]]
*[[Butch cut]]
*[[Butch cut]]
*[[Buzz cut]]
*[[Buzz cut]]
Line 96: Line 100:


== Bibliography ==
== Bibliography ==
[[File:Hair cutting chart 1884.jpg|thumb|280px]]
* {{cite book|last=Booker|first =Benjamin|year=1892|title=The Secret of Barbering|publisher=Unattributed Publisher|ref=harv}}
* {{cite book|last=Booker|first =Benjamin|year=1892|title=The Secret of Barbering|publisher=Unattributed Publisher|ref=harv}}



Revision as of 06:59, 16 July 2013

Regular haircut

A regular haircut is a men's and boy's hairstyle that has combable length on top, a defined or deconstructed side part, and a short, semi-short, medium, long, or extra long back and sides.[1][2][3] The style is also known by other names including taper cut, regular taper cut, side-part and standard haircut; as well as short back and sides, business-man cut and professional cut, subject to varying national, regional, and local interpretations of the specific taper for the back and sides.[4][5][6][7] The three elements of a regular haircut are edging, siding and topping.[8][9][10] Edging refers to the design of the lower edge of hair growth from the sideburns around the ears and across the nape of the neck.[8][11] Siding refers to the design of the hair on the back and sides between the edge and the top.[8][12] Topping refers to the design of the hair at the front and over the crown.[8][13] Edging comes first, followed by siding and topping.[8][14] Edging is typically done with clippers; siding, shears over comb; topping, shears over finger.[11][15] There are other methods that can be utilized including all clipper cuts, all shears cuts and all razor cuts. Barbers distinguish between a two line haircut and a one line haircut.[16][7] Two line haircuts are standard taper cuts.[17][7] The hair is outlined around the ears and then straight down the sides of the neck.[17][7] The edge of hair growth at the nape of the neck is tapered to the skin with a fine(zero) clipper blade.[18][19] A one line haircut, often referred to as a block cut, has the edge of hair growth at the nape outline shaved, creating an immediate transition between hair and skin and connecting the outline from the right sideburn to the outline from the left sideburn across the nape.[20][7] The outline at the edge of the nape can be in a squared off or rounded pattern. A squared off nape can have squared or rounded corners.[20][7][21] The shape and height of the neck edge are important design elements that can affect the appearance of the neck, chin, ears, profile and overall style. Generally speaking, a shorter neck or chin suits a somewhat higher neck edge; a longer neck or chin suits a somewhat lower neck edge. An extra wide neck suits a somewhat narrower neck edge while a thinner neck or protruding ears suit a wider neck edge.[22]

Tapers

Short

Other names for this style of taper include full crown, tight cut, and fade.[23][24][25][26][27][28][29] The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade from the lower edge of hair growth to or nearly full up to the crown. The clipper is gradually arced out of the hair at the hat band to achieve a taper. A fine clipper is used from the sideburn to about an inch above the ear. Clipper lines are blended out so there is a seamless transition between lengths.[30][31][32] Sideburns, which may not be visible at the time of the haircut depending on the color, thickness and density of the hair, skin tone and fine clipper blade used, are maintained short between haircuts. Short sideburns extend to the area where the ear cartilage attaches to the skull or slightly lower if ear shape requires to allow a sideburn to be defined.[33][34] Can be worn with a regular haircut, crew cut, ivy league, flat top crew cut, butch, brush cut, burr and other styles; and often the choice with these styles during the summer.[35][36][37]

Semi-Short

Also known as a half crown.[38][39][40] The hair on the sides and back is cut with a coarse clipper blade about half way up to the crown; the clipper starts to gradually arc out of the hair at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade is used at the sideburns and at the nape arcing out of the hair to create a blend at a point between the bottom and the top of the ears.[41] [42][43] Sideburns are generally worn short as the hair grows out or slightly longer than short but not quite medium.[44][45] Blending at the upper sides can utilize clipper over comb or shears over comb techniques.[46] While a semi-short taper can be worn with a regular haircut, it is very common with an ivy league, crew cut, flat top crew cut, butch, brush cut, or burr.[47][36]

Medium

A coarse clipper blade may be used on the sideburns, with the clipper immediately arcing out of the hair, completing the taper at the top of the ears. In the nape area, the coarse clipper starts to arc out at the middle of the ears with the taper completed at the top of the ears. A fine clipper blade tapers the lower edge of the hairline at the nape to the skin.[42][43] The lower edge of hair growth at the nape can alternatively be blocked off in a squared or rounded pattern.[20] Medium sideburns are appropriate with face shapes that are neither long or short. Medium sideburns extend to the top of the ear orifice.[48][34] The hair on the middle part of the back and sides can be shortened, thinned and blended using a variety of methods including shears over comb, clipper over comb, thinning shears method, slithering with standard barber's shears, shear point tapering or razor methods.[49][50] A common style with a regular haircut, medium pompadour or ivy league and also worn with a crew cut or flattop.[51][52]

Long

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape area, arcing out of the hair at the bottom of the ears with the taper completed at mid ear. A fine clipper blade is used to taper the edge at the hairline.[53][43] A long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern instead of being tapered to the skin.[20] Long sideburns are appropriate for average face shapes. Long sideburns extend to the middle of the ear opening. When slightly longer sideburns are worn than are appropriate for a style, it can shorten the appearance of the face; when slightly shorter sideburns are worn than are appropriate, it can lengthen the appearance of the face; therefore, the appearance of a face that is shorter or longer than average, in particular when due to the length of the chin or lower face, can be normalized by altering the length of the sideburns.[54][34] The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.[49][50] Most frequently worn with a regular haircut or a long pompadour.[55][56]

Extra Long

A coarse clipper blade is used in the nape, immediately arcing out of the hair, with the taper completed below the bottom of the ears. A fine clipper blade may be used to taper the lower edge of the hairline to the skin.[57] An extra long taper is frequently blocked at the nape in a squared or rounded pattern; a deconstructed arch around the ears and a deconstructed or shaggy block at the nape are also quite common.[56] Extra long sideburns are appropriate; extra long sideburns extend to the top of the ear lobe.[34] The middle section of the back and sides is most often cut shears over comb or shears over fingers; can also be cut with a razor. Thinning, layering and blending of the middle section of the back and sides can be accomplished with thinning shears, slithering or razor techniques.[49][50] Apart from being worn with a regular haircut, also worn with an extra long pompadour.[58]

Guards and Blades

Three types of clippers can be utilized to achieve a regular haircut: taper clippers, rotary clippers and outliner/edger clippers.[59] Taper clippers are powered by a linear or pivot motor. The blades are not readily interchangeable. Taper clippers have an adjustable taper lever that sets the cutting length within a certain range, usually from #000 blade length, 1/50"(0.5 mm) on the fine side to #1 length, 3/32"(2.4 mm) on the coarse side. For longer lengths, clipper guards are attached. The guard will cut at the numbered guard length when the taper lever is in the shortest cutting position. Clipper guards are also known as clipper guide combs.[60] [61] Fade clippers are identical to taper clippers with the exception of the range of cutting lengths which is entirely within the fine blade range. Most fade clippers cut between #00000 blade length, 1/125"(0.2 mm) and #000 blade length, 1/50"(0.5 mm. As with regular taper clippers, clipper guards can be attached for longer cutting lengths.[62] Rotary clippers have blades that readily snap on and off. Blades are available that leave from 1/250”(0.1mm) to 3/4”(19mm) of hair on the scalp when the clipper is guided over the head with the teeth of the clipper blade in contact with the scalp. Blades are numbered differently than guards. Rotary clippers are designed to accept a certain standard blade type, so that blades from a variety of manufacturers designed to the specific standard may be utilized on a clipper designed to that standard, regardless of manufacturer.[63][64] Outliner/edger clippers have a very fine cutting blade and no taper lever and are used to outline a defined arch around the ear and for block cuts, the edge at the nape of the neck. [65][66][67][68][69][59]

Guards

Human scalp hair grows on average about one eighth inch per week or one half inch per month.[70] Most clipper guards are numbered in eighths of an inch. The number of the guard denotes the number of week's hair growth left on the scalp when a clipper with a certain numbered guard is guided over the head with the guard in contact with the scalp. A #1 guard leaves 1/8"(3mm), one week's growth of hair growth on the scalp; a #2 guard leaves 2/8"(6.3mm), two week's hair growth, on the scalp; a #3 guard leaves 3/8"(9mm), three week's hair growth, on the scalp; and so on.[60]

Blades

Long
Medium

Fine cutting blades (also referred to as zero blades):

a #000000 blade leaves 1/250"(0.1mm), 5 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #00000 blade leaves 1/125"(0.2mm), 10 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0000 blade leaves 1/100"(0.3mm), 15 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0000A blade leaves 1/75"(0.4mm), 20 hours of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #000 blade leaves 1/50"(0.5mm), one day of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #00 blade leaves 1/30"(0.8mm), a day and a half of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #0 blade leaves 1/25"(1mm), two days of hair growth, on the scalp.

an #0A blade leaves 3/64"(1.2mm), 2.5 days of hair growth, on the scalp.


Medium coarse cutting blades, #1, #1A, #1.5:

a #1 Blade leaves 3/32"(2.4mm), 5 days of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #1A blade leaves 1/8"(3.2mm), one week of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #1.5 blade leaves 5/32"(4.0mm), 9 days of hair growth, on the scalp.


Full coarse cutting blades, #2, #3.5 and #3.75:

a #2 blade leaves 1/4"(6mm), two weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #3.5 blade leaves 3/8"(10 mm), three weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a #3.75 blade leaves 1/2"(13mm), four weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.


Longer cutting blades:

a 5/8 H/T leaves 5/8"(16 mm), five weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

a 3/4 H/T leaves 3/4"(19 mm), six weeks of hair growth, on the scalp.

[71][59]

See also

Medium-long

References

  1. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 129-131.
  2. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 133-139.
  3. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 98-101.
  4. ^ Scali-Snipes 1999, p. 188.
  5. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 122.
  6. ^ Stewart 2003, p. 188.
  7. ^ a b c d e f Trusty 1971, p. 97.
  8. ^ a b c d e Thorpe 1967, p. 118.
  9. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 131.
  10. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 61-62.
  11. ^ a b Trusty 1971, p. 62-63.
  12. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 68.
  13. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 70.
  14. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 61.
  15. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 118-120.
  16. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 133-134.
  17. ^ a b Thorpe 1967, p. 113-115.
  18. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 103.
  19. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 110-111.
  20. ^ a b c d Thorpe 1967, p. 115.
  21. ^ Moler 1928, p. 90.
  22. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 132-137.
  23. ^ Booker 1892, p. 24.
  24. ^ Modern Barber College 1946, p. 50.
  25. ^ Moler 1905, p. 40-43.
  26. ^ Moler 1928, p. 41-45.
  27. ^ Moler 1928, p. 100.
  28. ^ Scali-Snipes 1999, p. 282.
  29. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 133.
  30. ^ Moler 1928, p. 100-103.
  31. ^ Thorpe 1958, p. 129.
  32. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 98.
  33. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 128, 129.
  34. ^ a b c d Trusty 1971, p. 89-90, 135-136.
  35. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 129, 132, 133, 135, 142, 143.
  36. ^ a b Trusty 1971, p. 108, 110, 113.
  37. ^ Moler 1928, p. 94.
  38. ^ Modern Barber College 1946, p. 51.
  39. ^ Moler 1905, p. 41-45.
  40. ^ Moler 1928, p. 91.
  41. ^ Moler 1928, p. 91-99.
  42. ^ a b Thorpe 1967, p. 130.
  43. ^ a b c Trusty 1971, p. 99.
  44. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 128, 130.
  45. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 89=90, 135-136.
  46. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 118, 119.
  47. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 130, 132, 133, 142-143.
  48. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 128.
  49. ^ a b c Thorpe 1967, p. 118-119, 121.
  50. ^ a b c Trusty 1971, p. 68-69.
  51. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 130, 132-133, 144.
  52. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 108, 110.
  53. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 131.
  54. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 128, 131.
  55. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 131, 145-146.
  56. ^ a b Trusty 1971, p. 99-101.
  57. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 99-100.
  58. ^ Trusty 1971, p. 99, 101.
  59. ^ a b c Thorpe 1967, p. 54.
  60. ^ a b Andis (2003), Model ML (PDF) Cite error: The named reference "Eok" was defined multiple times with different content (see the help page).
  61. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76023-510
  62. ^ Andis (2004), Form 01604 (PDF)
  63. ^ Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades
  64. ^ Thorpe 1967, p. 55.
  65. ^ Andis (2003), Form 04942 (PDF)
  66. ^ Andis (2003), Form 04941 (PDF)
  67. ^ Andis (2007), Form 15341 (PDF)
  68. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76059-010
  69. ^ Oster (2013), Model 76059-030
  70. ^ Victoria Sherrow (2006), Encyclopedia of hair, ISBN 9780313331459
  71. ^ Oster (2013), Classic 76 Clipper Blades


Bibliography

  • Booker, Benjamin (1892). The Secret of Barbering. Unattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Modern Barber College (1946). Modern Textbook of Barbering. Modern Barber College. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Moler, A.B. (1905). The Barbers', Hairdressers' and Manicurers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Moler, A.B. (1928). Standardized Barbers' Manual. Unnattributed Publisher. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Scali-Snipes, Mara (1999). Milady's Standard Textbook of Professional Barber Styling. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Stewart, Helen; Ford, Gilly (2003). Hairdressing with Barbering. Heinemann Educational Publishers. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1958). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Thorpe, S.C. (1967). Practice and Science of Standard Barbering. Milady Publishing Corporation. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)
  • Trusty, L. Sherman (1971). The Art and Science of Barbering. Wolfer Printing Co. {{cite book}}: Invalid |ref=harv (help)