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The crimson outer robe was worn with a red gauze skirt and a crimson [[Bixi (clothing)|bixi]] ({{Lang-zh|c=蔽膝}}, knee cover) was fastened around the waist of its wearer.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref> The inner garment was a white robe ({{Lang-zh|c=白纱中单}}).<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref>
The crimson outer robe was worn with a red gauze skirt and a crimson [[Bixi (clothing)|bixi]] ({{Lang-zh|c=蔽膝}}, knee cover) was fastened around the waist of its wearer.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref> The inner garment was a white robe ({{Lang-zh|c=白纱中单}}).<ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref><ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref>


The high [[Guan (headwear)|crown]] was called ''tongtianguan'' ({{Lang-zh|c=通天冠|l=a hat accessing the sky}}<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref>), which was also known as ''chengtianguan'' ({{Lang-zh|c=|l=a hat bearing the sky}}).<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref> The ''tongtianguan'' was exclusively worn by the Emperor during some grand ceremonies.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref> The high crown was originally nine ''[[Cun (unit)|cun]]'' tall and tilting towards the back to form a "rolling shape"<ref>{{cite book|url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120|title=Book of Later Han|chapter=120|quote=通天冠，高九寸，正竖，顶少邪却，乃直下为铁卷梁，前有山，展筒为述，乘舆所常服。}}</ref> made by metal beams, with a "mountain" decoration and ''zhantong'' (展筒) on the front, and pinned on the hair with hairpins made of jade or rhinoceros horn.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref> By the [[Jin dynasty (266–420)|Jin dynasty]], the ''tongtianguan'' added a golden mountain-shaped pendant ornament on the front<ref>{{cite book|url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%99%89%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7025|title=Book of Jin|chapter=25|quote=“通天冠，本秦制。高九寸，正竖，顶少斜却，乃直下，铁为卷梁，前有展筒，冠前加金博山述，乘舆所常服也。 ”}}</ref>, and by the Tang dynasty, tongtianguan of the Emperor had 24 beams.<ref name=":4" />{{Rp|page=91}}
The high [[Guan (headwear)|crown]] was called ''tongtianguan'' ({{Lang-zh|c=通天冠|l=a hat accessing the sky}}<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref>), which was also known as ''chengtianguan'' ({{Lang-zh|c=|l=a hat bearing the sky}}).<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref> The ''tongtianguan'' was exclusively worn by the Emperor during some grand ceremonies.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last1=Zhu|first1=Ruixi|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/953576345|title=A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties|last2=朱瑞熙|date=2016|others=Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu|isbn=978-1-107-16786-5|edition=Updated|location=Cambridge, United Kingdom|pages=7, 41|oclc=953576345}}</ref> The high crown was originally nine ''[[Cun (unit)|cun]]'' tall and tilting towards the back to form a "rolling shape" made by metal beams, with a "mountain"-shape and ''zhantong'' (展筒) on the front<ref>{{cite book|url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E5%BE%8C%E6%BC%A2%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7120|title=Book of Later Han|chapter=120|quote=通天冠，高九寸，正竖，顶少邪却，乃直下为铁卷梁，前有山，展筒为述，乘舆所常服。}}</ref>, and pinned on the hair with hairpins made of jade or rhinoceros horn.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref> By the [[Jin dynasty (266–420)|Jin dynasty]], the ''tongtianguan'' added a golden mountain-shaped pendant ornament on the front<ref>{{cite book|url=https://zh.wikisource.org/zh-hans/%E6%99%89%E6%9B%B8/%E5%8D%B7025|title=Book of Jin|chapter=25|quote=“通天冠，本秦制。高九寸，正竖，顶少斜却，乃直下，铁为卷梁，前有展筒，冠前加金博山述，乘舆所常服也。 ”}}</ref>, and by the Tang dynasty, tongtianguan of the Emperor had 24 beams.<ref name=":4" />{{Rp|page=91}}


A pendant-like ornament called ''fangxin quling'' ({{Lang-zh|c=方心曲领|l=bent collar with a square center}}) was hung around the neck.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref> The ''fangxin quling'' was a notable feature in the ceremonial court attire of the Song and Ming dynasties.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref> It was made out of silk and was cut into a circle (which hung around the neck and shoulder areas) and a square (either solid or open square) which would fall over the cross-collared lapels of the paofu.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref> The shape of the circle and square symbolized the Heaven and earth respectively.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref>
A pendant-like ornament called ''fangxin quling'' ({{Lang-zh|c=方心曲领|l=bent collar with a square center}}) was hung around the neck.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/19814728|title=5000 years of Chinese costumes|date=1987|publisher=China Books & Periodicals|others=Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu|isbn=0-8351-1822-3|location=San Francisco, CA|pages=108–109|oclc=19814728}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web|title=宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网{{!}}最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop|url=http://hanfudian.com/article/show-447.aspx|access-date=2021-12-21|website=hanfudian.com}}</ref> The ''fangxin quling'' was a notable feature in the ceremonial court attire of the Song and Ming dynasties.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref> It was made out of silk and was cut into a circle (which hung around the neck and shoulder areas) and a square (either solid or open square) which would fall over the cross-collared lapels of the paofu.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref> The shape of the circle and square symbolized the Heaven and earth respectively.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://www.worldcat.org/oclc/956711877|title=Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass.|pages=92|oclc=956711877}}</ref>

Revision as of 21:52, 21 January 2024

Tongtianguanfu
Emperor Xuanzu (宣祖) of Song wearing tongtianguanfu.
Chinese通天冠服
Literal meaning'Direct links with Heaven' uniform

Tongtianguanfu (Chinese: 通天冠服) is a form of court attire in hanfu which was worn by the Emperor during the Song dynasty on very important occasions, such as grand court sessions and during major title-granting ceremonies. The attire traces its origin from the Han Dynasty.[1][2]: 91 It was also worn in the Jin dynasty Emperors when the apparel system of the Song dynasty was imitated and formed their own carriages and apparel system,[3] and in the Ming dynasty.[4] The tongtianguanfu was composed of a red outer robe, a white inner robe, a bixi, and a guan called tongtianguan, and a neck accessory called fangxin quling.[1]

Terminology

The term tongtian means "direct links with heaven".[5]

Composition and construction

The tongtianguanfu is composed of:

The gauze outer robe (paofu), called jiangshapao (Chinese: 绛纱袍).[6] It was crimson in colour with patterns of clouds and dragons embroidery which was gold and red in colours.[1] There were black borders stitched to the collar, sleeves, lapels and hems of the crimson outer robe.[1]

The crimson outer robe was worn with a red gauze skirt and a crimson bixi (Chinese: 蔽膝, knee cover) was fastened around the waist of its wearer.[1][6] The inner garment was a white robe (Chinese: 白纱中单).[6][1]

The high crown was called tongtianguan (Chinese: 通天冠; lit. 'a hat accessing the sky'[3]), which was also known as chengtianguan (lit. 'a hat bearing the sky').[3] The tongtianguan was exclusively worn by the Emperor during some grand ceremonies.[3] The high crown was originally nine cun tall and tilting towards the back to form a "rolling shape" made by metal beams, with a "mountain"-shape and zhantong (展筒) on the front[7], and pinned on the hair with hairpins made of jade or rhinoceros horn.[1] By the Jin dynasty, the tongtianguan added a golden mountain-shaped pendant ornament on the front[8], and by the Tang dynasty, tongtianguan of the Emperor had 24 beams.[2]: 91 

A pendant-like ornament called fangxin quling (Chinese: 方心曲领; lit. 'bent collar with a square center') was hung around the neck.[1][6] The fangxin quling was a notable feature in the ceremonial court attire of the Song and Ming dynasties.[9] It was made out of silk and was cut into a circle (which hung around the neck and shoulder areas) and a square (either solid or open square) which would fall over the cross-collared lapels of the paofu.[9] The shape of the circle and square symbolized the Heaven and earth respectively.[9]

A belt with ribbons was also tied to the waist.[1]

As footwear, the Emperor would have worn white stockings and black shoes.[1][6]

See also

References

  1. ^ a b c d e f g h i j 5000 years of Chinese costumes. Xun Zhou, Chunming Gao, 周汛, Shanghai Shi xi qu xue xiao. Zhongguo fu zhuang shi yan jiu zu. San Francisco, CA: China Books & Periodicals. 1987. pp. 108–109. ISBN 0-8351-1822-3. OCLC 19814728.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: others (link)
  2. ^ a b Fang, Alex Chengyu (2016). The Language and Iconography of Chinese Charms: Deciphering a Past Belief System. Fran?cois Thierry. [Place of publication not identified]. ISBN 978-981-10-1793-3. OCLC 966360040.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  3. ^ a b c d Zhu, Ruixi; 朱瑞熙 (2016). A social history of middle-period China : the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties. Bangwei Zhang, Fusheng Liu, Chongbang Cai, Zengyu Wang, Peter Ditmanson, Bang Qian Zhu (Updated ed.). Cambridge, United Kingdom. pp. 7, 41. ISBN 978-1-107-16786-5. OCLC 953576345.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
  4. ^ 董进. (2011). Q版大明衣冠图志. Bei jing you dian da xue chu ban she. ISBN 978-7-5635-2501-0. OCLC 885837660.
  5. ^ 臧, 迎春 (2003). 中国传统服饰. 五洲传播出版社. ISBN 9787508502793.
  6. ^ a b c d e "宋代皇帝服饰：通天冠服 - 栖凤阁汉服网|最美中国风 尽在栖凤阁 Powered by Hishop". hanfudian.com. Retrieved 2021-12-21.
  7. ^ "120". Book of Later Han. 通天冠，高九寸，正竖，顶少邪却，乃直下为铁卷梁，前有山，展筒为述，乘舆所常服。
  8. ^ "25". Book of Jin. "通天冠，本秦制。高九寸，正竖，顶少斜却，乃直下，铁为卷梁，前有展筒，冠前加金博山述，乘舆所常服也。 "
  9. ^ a b c Burkus, Anne Gail (2010). Through a forest of chancellors : fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's Lingyan ge, an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou. Yuan, active Liu. Cambridge, Mass. p. 92. ISBN 978-1-68417-050-0. OCLC 956711877.{{cite book}}: CS1 maint: location missing publisher (link)
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