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Piolets d'Or

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Piolet d'Or
Awarded forMountaineering ascents with emphasis on style, spirit and creativity, self-sufficiency, and technical difficulty
Sponsored by
  • Montagnes
  • Groupe de Haute Montagne
DateOctober
StandortParis, Frankreich
First awarded1992 (1992)
WebsitePiolet d'Or

The Piolet d'Or ([pjɔ.lɛ dɔʁ], "Golden Ice Axe") is an annual mountaineering award given by the French magazine Montagnes and The Groupe de Haute Montagne since 1992. Golden Ice Axes are awarded for achievements in the previous year. It is considered mountaineering's highest honor,[1][2] and is considered to be the "Oscars" of mountaineering and climbing.Nominations are selected by GHM and Montagnes, and the award is chosen by a jury consisting of Guy Chaumereuil (the chief editor of Montagnes when the award was inaugurated), (until 1998) Jean-Claude Marmier (president of GHM when the award was inaugurated), the current president of GHM, the current editor of Montagnes, the previous year's winners and three members invited by GHM, one of whom becomes the president of the jury.

Criteria

In modern mountaineering, the style and manner of climbing take precedence over achieving the goal itself. In order to receive the Golden Ice Axe, you must first of all be a self-sufficient climber, which is associated with the use of the alpine style, which requires having your own skills and excludes the use of mountain guides, high altitude porters, fixed ropes, oxygen supporter and doping substances. The passage must be of a high technical level and the goal originality (e.g. first ascent).

Quotes from a 2006 article:

The selection of potential laureates, as well as the conditions of awarding the trophy obey a strict ethic, which is in line with the founding values of the GHM. High technical level and commitment certainly constitute the principal criteria to which the GHM members feel so attached.

The originality in the choice of the objective and the innovative nature of the manner of conducting the ascent are equally important elements of appreciation. The practice of alpinism is in effect in perpetual evolution, and this dimension should not be forgotten. It's by the crossing of certain stages that were considered impassable that mentalities have evolved, and ascents reputed to be impossible have become commonplace…

Respect for the mountains that surround us, the beauty of movement, and the spirit in which people climb those mountains are also primary conditions for the awarding of the prize. We cannot in fact pass down to future generations summits mutilated in the name of a destructive climbing style without profoundly altering the spirit itself of this activity[3]

Status

The Piolet d'Or is generally considered the highest honor in Alpinism.[4][5] The New York Times described in it 2021, as "Alpinism's biggest prize".[5] They have been called the "Oscars" of mountaineering.[6][7][8]

Opposition

Controversy has surrounded the award, due to the non-quantifiable nature of climbing accomplishments, and the varying interpretations of 'alpinism' and 'respect for the mountains.' The 1997 and 2005 awards were criticised due to the recipient's completing the climbs in 'heavy' style, spending large amounts of time on the ascent and leaving gear behind.

The award in 1998 was to a Russian team for a first ascent on Makalu during which two team members died. Marmier left the jury that year, explaining that "the decision of the jury has been a real disaster."[5][9]

In 2005 Ian Parnell withdrew his nomination, as did Alessandro Beltrami, Rolando Garibotti and Ermanno Salvaterra in 2006 for what might be the first ascent of the north face of Cerro Torre, and in 2008 during the selection process Garibotti asked the jury not to take into consideration the Torre Traverse first ascent he completed with Colin Haley. Marko Prezelj rejected the award in 2007 on stage to express his opposition for competition in alpinism.

2022 award

The 2022 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in October 2022 by a 6-person technical jury consisting of Conrad Anker, Alex Bluemel, Genki Narumi, Paul Ramsden, Patrick Wagnon, and Mikel Zabalza:[4][10]

2021 award

The 2021 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in October 2021 by a 6-person technical jury consisting of Ines Papert, Kelly Cordes, Victor Saunders, Valery Babanov, and Helias Millerioux:[11][12]

  • Yasushi Yamanoi won the 13th Lifetime Achievement award.[11][12]
  • Emperor face (Running in the Shadows) of Mount Robson (2,500m, VI M6 AI5 A0, 2-days, alpine style) in the Canadian Rockies, by American Ethan Berman and Briton Uisdean Hawthorn.[11][12]
  • South face and southwest ridge (Revers Gagnant) of Sani Pakkush (2,600m, M4+ WI 4+, 2-days, alpine style) in the Tolltar Valley, Pakistan, by French climbers Pierrick Fine and Symon Welfringer.[11][12]
  • A "Special Mention" was made for Catalan climber Silvia Vidal for her "cutting edge big wall solo ascents around the world".[11][12]

2020 award

The 2020 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in August 2020 by an 8-person technical jury consisting of Kazuaki Amano, Nikita Balabanov, Aleš Česen, Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner, Helias Millerioux, Enrico Rosso, Victor Saunders and Raphael Slawinski.[13][14][15]

2019 award

The 2019 Piolet d'Or was awarded in September 2019 during the Review of Mountain Films named after Andrzej Zawada in Lądek-Zdrój, Poland. The winners were:[16]

2018 award

The 2018 Piolet d'Or was awarded on September 20–23, 2018 during the Review of Mountain Films named after Andrzej Zawada in Lądek-Zdrój, Poland. The winners were:[18]

2017 award

In April 2017 the following ascents were honored:[19]

2016 award

The 2016 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in April 2016 by a 9-person technical jury consisting of Valeri Babanov, Hervé Barmasse, Seb Bohin, Simon Elias, Yasuhiro Hanatani, Silvo Karo, Michael Kennedy, Victor Saunders, and Raphael Slawinski.[20][21]

2015 award

The 2015 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in March 2015 by a 9-person technical jury consisting of Kazuki Amano, Valeri Babanov, Hervé Barmasse, Stephane Benoist, Andy Houseman, Michael Kennedy, Ines Papert, Raphael Slawinski, and Andrej Štremfelj; in a departure from previous years, the winners were announced before the ceremony so the event was "not a competition, but a celebration".[6][22]

2014 award

The 2014 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in March 2014 by a 6-person technical jury consisting of George Lowe, Denis Urubko, Catherine Destivelle, Erri De Luca (the Italian writer), Karen Steinbach, and Lim Sung-muk;[23] in a compromise, the jury decided to award two Piolet awards out of the six shortlisted ascents.[24][25]

2013 award

The 2013 Piolet d'Or winners were announced in April 2013 by a 4-person technical jury consisting of Stephen Venables, Silvo Karo, Katsutaka Yokoyama, and Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner;[26] in an unprecedented move, the jury announced that the entire short-list of six nominated ascents would receive a Piolet d'Or.[27] Montagnes magazine issued a statement condemning the decision saying that it: "weakens the event and its status, blurs the image of mountaineering in the eyes of the public and does not reflect the true personality of mountaineers who make history".[28][29]

  • Kurt Diemberger won the 5th Lifetime Achievement award.[29]
  • South pillar (Nima Line) of Kyashar (2,200m, 5.10a A0 M5, 7-days) in Nepal, by the Japanese climbers Tatsuya Aoki, Yasuhiro Hanatani, and Hiroyoshi Manome.[29]
  • Northwest buttress (Prow of Shiva) of Shiva (6-days, ED+, alpine style) in Himachal Pradesh, India, by British climbers Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden (2nd award for each).[29]
  • Northeast spur of Muztagh Tower (18-days, semi-Alpine style) in Pakistan, by Russian climbers Dmitry Golovchenko, Alexander Lange, and Sergey Nilov.[29]
  • South face (The Torch and The Brotherhood) of Ogre I (5.9X AI5 M6R) in Pakistan, by American climbers Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster.[29]
  • Southwest face (Spicy Game) of Kamet (2,000m, ED-: 5.10-, alpine style), Uttarakhand, India, by French climbers Sébastien Bohin, Didier Jourdain, Sébastien Moatti, and Sébastien Ratel.[29]
  • Mazeno Ridge of Nanga Parbat (13km traverse, 18-days) in Pakistan, by Scottish climbers Sandy Allan and Rick Allen.[29][7]
  • "Special Recognition" was made of Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk's fair-means ascent of Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, and David Lama and Peter Ortner's first free ascent of the line.[29][30]

2012 award

The winners were:

  • Mark Richey, Steve Swenson and Freddie Wilkinson (USA) for their ascent of Saser Kangri II (7,518m, India);
  • Nejc Marcic and Luka Strazar (Slovenia) for their ascent of K7 West (6,615m, Pakistan);

A third ascent has been given a special mention by the jury: Torre Egger, Argentina, by Bjørn-Eivind Aartun and Ole Lied (Norway)

2011 award

The Piolet d'Or 2011 took place in Chamonix (France) from 16 to 17 April 2011.

The winners were:

  • Yasushi Okada and Katsutaka Yokoyama on the Japanese Mount Logan expedition (south-east face of Mount Logan).
  • Sean Villanueva, Nicolas and Olivier Favresse (Belgium), Ben Ditto (USA) and Bob Shepton (UK) for the "Greenland Big Walls" expedition.[32]
  • Doug Scott was awarded the 3rd Lifetime Achievement Award.[33]

2010 award

The Piolet d'Or 2010 took place in Chamonix (France) and Courmayeur (Italy) from 8–10 April 2010.

The winners were:

2009 award

The Piolet d'or 2009 took place in Chamonix-Mont-Blanc (France) and Courmayeur in the Aosta Valley (Italy) on the 24th and 25 April 2009.[35]

The 2009 awardees were:

2008 award

For 2008, the Piolet D'Or was canceled. The co-founders of the award decided to initiate a new process for selecting the nominees and winner, and the process could not be completed on a timely basis for 2008.[38]

2007 award

The 2007 Piolet d'Or was awarded on January 26, 2007 in Grenoble, France. The winners were:

Other finalist were:

List of earlier recipients

  • 2006 Steve House and Vince Anderson for the first rapid alpine-style ascent of the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat
  • 2005 Russian team led by Alexander Odintsov for the first direct ascent of the north face of Jannu
  • 2004 Valery Babanov and Yuri Koshelenko for an ascent on the south face of Nuptse
  • 2003 Mick Fowler and Paul Ramsden for a new route on the north face of Siguniang (6250m) in China
  • 2002 Valery Babanov for a solo first ascent of Meru Central (6310m)
  • 2001 Thomas Huber and Iwan Wolf for the first ascent of the direct north pillar of Shivling (6543m)
  • 2000 Lionel Daudet and Sébastien Foissac for the ascent of the south-east face of the Burkett Needle
  • 1999 Andrew Lindblade of Australia and Athol Whimp of New Zealand for the first direct ascent of the north face of Thalay Sagar
  • 1998 Russian team from Ekaterinburg led by Sergey Efimov for the first ascent of the west face of Makalu
  • 1997 Slovenians Tomaž Humar and Vanja Furlan for a new route on the east face of Ama Dablam
  • 1996 Andreas Orgler, Heli Neswabba and Arthur Wutsher Germany for numerous new routes in the Ruth Glacier area of the Alaska Range and especially a new route on the south face of Mount Bradley
  • 1995 Francois Marsigny of France and Andy Parkin of England for the new ice and rock route up the Esperance Col on Cerro Torre
  • 1994 The youth high altitude expedition of French Alpine Club (median age 20 years) for ascents in the Pamir Mountains
  • 1993 Michel Piola and Vincent Sprungli for the ascent of the east face of Torre South del Paine in Patagonia (the name of the route is "Dans l'Oeil du Cyclone")
  • 1992 Slovenians Andrej Štremfelj and Marko Prezelj for a 3000m ascent of the South Pillar of Kanchenjunga's South Summit, 8476m, in the Himalaya

See also

References

  1. ^ Chavez, Nicole (30 April 2017). "Famed Swiss climber Ueli Steck dies in Everest training accident". CNN. Retrieved 14 February 2020.
  2. ^ McMillan, Kelley (4 April 2014). "Swiss Climber's Feat Honored Despite Lack of Proof". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 14 February 2020.
  3. ^ "Grivel North America - Headlines - 14th Piolet d'Or". Archived from the original on 9 May 2006. Retrieved 25 June 2006.. 14th Piolet d'Or. URL accessed June 25, 2006.
  4. ^ a b c d e f Walsh, Anthony (19 October 2022). "Alpinism's Highest Honors Announced: The 2022 Piolets d'Or Recipients". Climbing. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  5. ^ a b c Levy, Michael (29 November 2021). "A Climbing Award That May Be a Winner's Last". The New York Times. ISSN 0362-4331. Retrieved 30 November 2021.
  6. ^ a b c d e f Boermans, Menno (14 April 2015). "Highlights from the 23rd Piolets d'Or". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 January 2023. The Piolets d'Or (Golden Ice Axes) were long considered to be the "Oscars of Mountaineering,"
  7. ^ a b "Scots pair win climbing's 'Oscars'". BBC News. 22 April 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  8. ^ Mettler, Katie (1 May 2017). "Ueli Steck, famed Swiss mountain climber, dead after plunging 3,280 feet near Mount Everest". Washington Post. Retrieved 1 January 2023. But Steck returned in 2013 and achieved the first solo climb of the Annapurna south face, receiving the "Piolet d'Or" — the Oscar of mountaineering — for his feat, reported the AP
  9. ^ Parnell, Ian (1 July 2006). "Victors of the Unwinnable". Alpinist. 16 (Summer 2006). Jackson, WY, USA: Alpinist Magazine: 58. Retrieved 9 February 2008.
  10. ^ a b c d e "The Piolets d'Or 2022 list of significant ascents". PlanetMountain. 16 November 2022. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  11. ^ a b c d e Walsh, Anthony (29 October 2022). "Alpinism's Highest Honors Announced: The 2021 Piolets d'Or Recipients". Climbing. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  12. ^ a b c d e "Piolets d'Or 2021 announces awarded ascents, Silvia Vidal receives Special Mention". PlanetMountain. 8 October 2021. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  13. ^ a b c d e f Walsh, Anthony (13 August 2020). "4 Climbs Honored With 2020 Piolet d'Or Awards". Climbing. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  14. ^ a b c d e f "Piolets d'Or 2020: Chamlang, Tengi Ragi Tau, Link Sar and Rakaposhi the winning climbs". PlanetMountain. 12 August 2020. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  15. ^ a b c d e f Franz, Derek (11 August 2020). "Four "significant ascents" announced for 2020 Piolets d'Or". ALpinist. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  16. ^ "Piolets d'Or an Lama, Auer und Livingstone".
  17. ^ "Piolet d'Or Carrière dla Krzysztofa Wielickiego!".
  18. ^ "Piolets d'Or Press Release July 2018" (PDF). Archived from the original (PDF) on 28 August 2018. Retrieved 28 August 2018.
  19. ^ a b Franz, Derek (15 April 2017). "Jury selects two teams for Piolets d'Or awards this year for 2016 ascents". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  20. ^ a b c "Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured". PlanetMountain. 7 April 2016. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  21. ^ a b c "2016 Piolets d'Or Award Recipients Announced". Rock & Ice. April 2016. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  22. ^ a b c d e Samet, Matt (11 March 2015). "2015 Piolets d'Or Recipients Announced". Alpine. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  23. ^ a b c d Griffin, Lindsay (2014). "The 2014 Piolets d'Or" (PDF). Alpine Journal. 118. The Alpine Club: 397-399. ISBN 9780956930934. Retrieved 1 January 2014.
  24. ^ a b c d "Ueli Steck and Raphael Slawinski & Ian Welsted win the Piolets d'Or 2014". PlanetMountain. 29 March 2014. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  25. ^ a b c d McDonald, Dougald (29 March 2014). "Annapurna, K6 West Win Piolets d'Or". Climbing. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  26. ^ "Piolets d'Or 2013, the nominations for the 21st edition". PlanetMountain. 11 March 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  27. ^ "Piolets d'Or 2013: everyone wins". PlanetMountain. 6 April 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  28. ^ Douglas, Ed (4 April 2013). "Everyone's a winner at the Piolets d'Or (almost)". British Mountaineering Council. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  29. ^ a b c d e f g h i Cameron, Gwen (12 April 2013). "Piolets d'Or 2013: Six Nominees, Six Awards". Alpinist. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  30. ^ "Piolets d'Or, special mention to Kennedy, Kruk, Lama and Ornter". PlanetMountain. 22 March 2013. Retrieved 1 January 2023.
  31. ^ 2012 - Robert Paragot at pioletsdor.net
  32. ^ "Piolets d'Or 2011", ukc.com, 18 April 2011
  33. ^ 2011 - Doug Scott at pioletsdor.net
  34. ^ 2010 - Reinhold Messner at pioletsdor.net
  35. ^ "The 2009 recipients are..." Piolet d'Or. Archived from the original on 5 March 2012. Retrieved 14 April 2010.
  36. ^ "K2climb.net - Guide to K2".
  37. ^ 2009 Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement : Walter Bonatti
  38. ^ Griffin, Lindsay (23 January 2008). "2008 Piolet D'Or Canceled". Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 9 February 2008.
  39. ^ Lambert, Erik (29 January 2007). "Prezelj, Lorencic Win 2007 Piolet D'Or". Alpinist. Alpinist Magazine. Retrieved 9 February 2008.
  40. ^ "Sharpening the Piolet d'Or: Nominations pick fast, alpine-style climbs - and civilian courage". Mount Everest dot net. ExplorersWeb Inc. 12 December 2006. Retrieved 9 February 2008.