Archaeological textiles represent precious remains from ancient culture; this is because of the historical and cultural importance of the information that can be obtained by such relics. However, the extremely complicated state of preservation of these textiles, which can be charred, partially or totally mineralized, with heavy soil or biological contamination, requires highly specialized and sensitive analytical tools to perform a comprehensive study. Starting from these considerations, the paper presents a combined workflow that provides the extraction of dyes and keratins and keratin-associated proteins in a single step, minimizing sampling while maximizing the amount of information gained. In the first phase, different approaches were tested and two different protocols were found suitable for the purpose of the unique workflow for dyes/keratin-proteins: a slightly modified urea protocol and a recently proposed new TCEP/CAA procedure. In the second step, after the extraction, different methods of cleanup and workflow for proteins and dyes were investigated to develop protocols that did not result in a loss of aliquots of the analytes of interest and to maximize the recovery of both components from the extracting solution. These protocols investigated the application of two types of paramagnetic beads, unmodified and carboxylate-coated hydrophilic magnetic beads, and dialysis and stage-tip protocols. The newly designed protocols have been applied to cochineal, weld, orchil, kermes, and indigo keratin-based dyed samples to evaluate the effectiveness of the protocols on several dye sources. These protocols, based on a single extraction step, show the possibility of investigating dyes and keratins from a unique sample of 1 mg or lesser, with respect to the thresholds of sensitivity and accuracy required in the study of textile artifacts of historical and artistic values.
Keywords: archeological textiles; dyes; keratin-associated proteins; keratins; paramagnetic beads.