Birds eye view of a waterfall interspersed with vegetation
An undiscovered stretch of the Mediterranean, the Herzegovina wine route takes travellers on a transportive gastronomic journey through the southern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger

Sip your way along the historic Herzegovina wine route

Connecting Mostar with Trebinje, this route takes in the dramatic landscapes and vineyards of southern Bosnia and Herzegovina, with plenty of tipples to try along the way.

Story and photographs byNick St Oegger
August 28, 2024
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK).
Man pouring wine into a wine glass
Snaking through the south of Bosnia and Herzegovina, between Mostar and Trebinje, the Herzegovina Wine Route is the ideal way to explore the region’s striking karst landscape, moving from vineyard to vineyard, tasting a wide range of traditional dishes and exceptional local wines.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Cobbled street in a town
Patterned seat with windows looking out over a river
The route begins in Mostar, named the European Wine City Dionisio 2024. The city’s old town has been carefully restored, with its winding cobblestone streets home to Ottoman houses serving traditional Bosnian coffee and sweets, and the ateliers of craftspeople who work with leather and copper.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Stews, meat, potatoes and chunks of bread served in bowls and baskets on a table.
A 20-minute car journey away, in the mountains behind the city, lies the village of Goranci, where, at Restoran Goranci, you can expect traditional meals such as slow-roasted veal and grah, a Bosnian bean stew, with potato bread and hurda (a local cheese curd).
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Interior of a church with intricately painted murals on a dome ceiling
If Mostar marks the start of the wine route, the end point is the country’s southernmost city, Trebinje (right), where the nearby karst fields, known as Popovo Polje, are considered some of the best agricultural terrain in the country, and where several wineries have their vineyards. The Church of The Holy Transfiguration of God (left) is one of Trebinje’s most striking buildings. Religion has played a key role in the region’s wine production — the nearby Tvrdoš Monastery is one of the largest wine producers in the country.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left)
Woman laughing wearing a yellow jumpsuit
Meanwhile, just outside the city, Household Kovačević is a family-run business producing over a ton of honey every year from its nearly 100 hives, plus cheese, rakija (a Balkan fruit brandy) and other organic products.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Bees on a hive
Different varieties of honey are produced depending on where the bees have been living — honey produced in the forest has earthier pine tones, while honey from the fields has more of a herbal flavour.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Vendor selling fruit from a market stall
Compared to the rest of Bosnia, the Herzegovina region is rich in agricultural land, owing to the good climate and mineral-rich soil. During spring and summer, it’s common to see roadside stalls selling the produce of this landscape in the shape of seasonal fruits and vegetables, direct from local farmers.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Food presented in a dish garnished with herbs
Fresh pasta dough in bowls next to a rolling pin
The town of Stolac and the surrounding region is home to a pasta dish known as stolački jarišti. It’s made with fresh sage, which is briefly submerged in sizzling butter. The pasta is then tossed into the mix together with sir iz mijeha, a local cheese fermented in a special sheepskin sack, as well as
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Man walking through vineyards surrounded by hills
Ivan Nizić walks among the newly planted vineyards on the grounds of the Škegro Family Winery, where the soil is mineral rich, but difficult to work with due to the rocky top layer.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger
Cheeseboard presented on a table with bread salad and crackers
Orange wine served in wine glasses next to a wine bottle
At Nuić Winery, near Ljubuški, the vineyards are planted with three local grape varieties — blatina, žilavka and trnjak. Nuić is known for bringing the trnjak grape back from the brink of extinction and is one of only a few wineries producing a standalone wine from this variety. At the winery’s tastings, they serve a selection of local cheeses, salads and pastries. Orange Žilavka is one of Śkegro’s signature wines — also known as a skin contact wine, orange wines are made when the skins of white grapes are left on during the fermentation process, creating a distinct colour and flavour.
Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Top) (Left) and Photograph by Nick St Oegger (Bottom) (Right)
Published in Issue 24 (summer 2024) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).

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