History of Fermented Tofu Scribd 5
History of Fermented Tofu Scribd 5
Including Various Names and Types: Sufu, Red Fermented Tofu, Bean Cheese, Chinese Cheese, Doufu-ru, Soybean Cheese, Soy Cheese, Bean-Curd Cheese, Fermented Soybean Curd, Bean Cake, Tofyuyo / Tofu-yo, Red Sufu, Fu-Yu, Fu-Ru, Chou Doufu / Chou Toufu, Pickled Bean Curd, etc.
2011
Copyright 2011 by Soyinfo Center
Copyright (c) 2011 by William Shurtleff & Akiko Aoyagi All rights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or copied in any form or by any means - graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, taping, or information and retrieval systems - except for use in reviews, without written permission from the publisher.
Published by:
Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234 Lafayette, CA 94549-0234 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com [email protected]
ISBN 978-1-928914-40-2 (Fermented Tofu) Printed 13 Nov. 2011 Price: Available on the Web free of charge Search engine keywords: History of sufu History of bean cheese History of Chinese cheese History of soybean cheese History of soy cheese History of bean-curd cheese History of fermented soybean curd History of tofu-yo History of tofuyo History of bean cake History of Fu-Yu History of nondairy cheeses History of healthy nondairy cheeses History of vegan cheeses Bibliography of sufu Bibliography of bean cheese Bibliography of Chinese cheese Bibliography of soybean cheese Bibliography of soy cheese Bibliography of bean-curd cheese Bibliography of fermented soybean curd Bibliography of tofu-yo Bibliography of tofuyo Bibliography of bean cake Bibliography of Fu-Yu Bibliography of nondairy cheeses Bibliography of vegan cheeses
Inhalt
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Dedication and Acknowledgments.................................................................................................................................. 4 Introduction and Brief Chronology, by William Shurtleff .......................................................................................... 5 About This Book ............................................................................................................................................................. 8 Abbreviations Used in This Book .................................................................................................................................. 9 How to Make the Best Use of This Digital Book - Search It! .................................................................................... 10 Small Graphics ........................................................................................................................................................ 12-16 History of Fermented Tofu: 763 References in Chronological Order ...................................................................... 17 Contains 56 Photographs and Illustrations Subject/Geographical Index by Record Numbers ................................................................................................... 315 Last Page of Index ....................................................................................................................................................... 360
Japanese translation and maps: Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. This book is dedicated to the kings of the Loochoo / Ryukyu dynasty, Dr. Masaaki Yasuda, Nganshou Wai, and Quong Hop & Co. - pioneers in this eld. Loma Linda University, Del E. Webb Memorial Library (Seventh-day Adventist): Janice Little, Trish Chapman. We would also like to thank our co-workers and friends at Soyinfo Center who, since 1984, have played a major role in collecting the documents, building the library, and producing the SoyaScan database from which this book is printed: Irene Yen, Tony Jenkins, Sarah Chang, Laurie Wilmore, Alice Whealey, Simon Beaven, Elinor McCoy, Patricia McKelvey, Claire Wickens, Ron Perry, Walter Lin, Dana Scott, Jeremy Longinotti, John Edelen, Alex Lerman, Lydia Lam, Gretchen Muller, Joyce Mao, Luna Oxenberg, Joelle Bouchard, Justine Lam, Joey Shurtleff, Justin Hildebrandt, Michelle Chun, Olga Kochan, Loren Clive, Marina Li, Rowyn McDonald, Casey Brodsky, Hannah Woodman, Elizabeth Hawkins, Molly Howland, Jacqueline Tao, Lynn Hsu. Special thanks to Tom and Linda Wolfe of Berwyn Park, Maryland. For outstanding help on this fermented tofu book we thank: Masaaki Yasuda, H.T. Huang, Quong Hop & Co., Yasuko Torii, Cecilia Chiang, Jim Miller, Stanley Lee, Ben Lee, Eng Wun-hong. Finally our deepest thanks to Tony Cooper of San Ramon, California, who has kept our computers up and running since Sept. 1983. Without Tony, this series of books on the Web would not have been possible. This book, no doubt and alas, has its share of errors. These, of course, are solely the responsibility of William Shurtleff. This bibliography and sourcebook was written with the hope that someone will write a detailed and well-documented history of this subject.
Part of the enjoyment of writing a book lies in meeting people from around the world who share a common interest, and in learning from them what is often the knowledge or skills acquired during a lifetime of devoted research or practice. We wish to give deepest thanks...
Of the many libraries and librarians who have been of great help to our research over the years, several stand out: University of California at Berkeley: John Creaser, Lois Farrell, Norma Kobzina, Ingrid Radkey. Northern Regional Library Facility (NRLF), Richmond, California: Martha Lucero, Jutta Wiemhoff, Scott Miller, Virginia Moon, Kay Loughman. Stanford University: Molly Molloy, who has been of special help on Slavic-language documents. National Agricultural Library: Susan Chapman, Kay Derr, Carol Ditzler, John Forbes, Winnifred Gelenter, Henry Gilbert, Kim Hicks, Ellen Knollman, Patricia Krug, Sarah Lee, Veronica Lefebvre, Julie Mangin, Ellen Mann, Josephine McDowell, Wayne Olson, Mike Thompson, Tanner Wray. Library of Congress: Ronald Jackson, Ronald Roache. Lane Medical Library at Stanford University. Contra Costa County Central Library and Lafayette Library: Carole Barksdale, Kristen Wick, Barbara Furgason, Sherry Cartmill, Linda Barbero. Harvard Universitys Five Botanical Libraries (especially Arnold Arboretum Library): Jill Gelmers Thomas. French translation: Martine Liguori of Lafayette, California, for ongoing, generous, and outstanding help since the early 1980s.
INTRODUCTION
What is fermented tofu? It is a soft (almost creamy), somewhat salty non-dairy (vegan) cheese that originated either in China or the islands around Okinawa in about the 1500s. It has a rather strong aroma, reminiscent of European mold-ripened cheeses such as Roquefort, Camembert, Blue / Bleu, Brie, Neufchatel, Stilton, Gorgonzola, etc. Many Westerners consider it an acquired taste, but those who try it often grow to love it - or even crave it. It does not melt but it is cut or spreads easily, and is generally used as a condiment, as with rice or rice porridge, or as a spread for crackers. There are many different types made in many different ways just as there are with dairy cheeses, but all can be divided into two basic types: (1) Tofu molded before pickling. (2) Tofu not molded before pickling. It is typically made using a two-part fermentation. For type No. 1: First, 1-inch cubes of rm tofu are inoculated with spores of a special species of mold. These are kept in a warm place (or incubated) for several days until each cube is overgrown with a fragrant white mycelium. Second, these moldcovered cubes are immersed in a brining liquor (often in individual jars) consisting of a mixture of rice wine, water, and salt. There the tofu ages and ripens. It will keep for years unrefrigerated or even longer refrigerated. Brief Chronology of Fermented Tofu. 1596 Fermented tofu (furu) may be mentioned in the Becao Gangmu [The Great Pharmacopea] by Li Shizhen. Scholars disagree. 1610 Earliest known reference to fermented tofu in China appears in Penglong Yehua [Peng Long Ye Hua; Night Discourses by the Penglong Mountain], by Li Rihua. The fermented tofu is named hai fu [hai tofu fu] (Huang 2000, p. 325-26). The next few earliest Chinese documents that mention fermented tofu are from 1680, about 1750, and 1790. 1783 Fermented tofu is rst mentioned in Japan in the Tfu Hyakuchin Zokuhen [One Hundred Rare and Favorite Tofu Recipes: Sequel], by Ka Hitsujun of Osaka. Two types of fermented tofu were mentioned, both red. However this fermented tofu subsequently disappeared and can no longer be found in mainland Japan. 1818 Basil Hall, an Englishman, describing a feast by the king of Loochoo (in todays Okinawa province) says: There was something like cheese given us after the cakes, but we cannot form a probable conjecture of what it was made. It was probably tofuyo. 1855 Jan. Fermented tofu is next mentioned in the Western world by Baron de Montgaudry, the French Consul at Shanghai and Ning-po, China. Writing in French in the Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation he says (after describing regular tofu): For the rich, a seasoning (assaisonnement) is prepared which requires more care and culinary talent. The soybean pat (La pte de Pois) [tofu] is fermented after having been seasoned with pepper, salt, powdered bay/laurel leaves, powdered thyme, and other aromatics. During the fermentation, the producer bastes the pat with soybean oil (lhuile de Pois). After several days of fermentation, the preparation is ready. This pat or cheese (fermented tofu) becomes a very powerful digestive (aid to digestion) and an aperitif, which no one can resist because it is extremely tasty. 1858 April Fermented tofu rst arrives in the Western world in Australia (Melbourne). Called Pickle beans curd [sic], it is part of a shipment of Chinese foods sent to Chinese in Australia because of the Gold Rush (1851-1861). Unlike regular fresh tofu, fermented tofu is not perishable and can be shipped long distances (Towns 1858). 1878 Doufu-ru (Fermented tofu) is rst made in the Western world in San Francisco by Wo Sing & Co., which also makes regular tofu (Wells Fargo & Co.). 1879 June 4 Fermented tofu is rst mentioned in a U.S. newspaper, in the Hartford Daily Courant (Connecticut) in an article titled A Hartford lady at a Chinese dinner. The wife of an American ofcial in China, she calls it salt bean curd. 1882 Doufu-ru (fermented tofu) in now being made by a second tofu company in San Francisco, Sam Sing. 1882 In France, fermented tofu is rst given a real name fromage de soja (Figuier 1882). 1883 Fermented tofu (10 boxes of bean cake) is again imported to Australia from Hongkong, again as part of a shipment of Chinese foods (Brisbane Courier, Queensland, Australia). Another shipment with the same name arrives in June 1885. 1887 In A Primer in the Mandarin Dialect, published by the China Inland Mission in Shanghai, fermented tofu is described on page 197 as teo-fu-ru, bean curd; The three
Chinese characters are given. 1888 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as Beancurd, preserved (Alabaster 1888). 1892 Stinky tofu (a malodorous type of fermented tofu, loved or craved by many) is rst mentioned in English in a dictionary by H.A. Giles under the character Chou (p. 259. No. 2521). The entry reads: Chou fu - stinking bean curd, noxious. 1902 Oct. 15 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as Fermented bean-curd (New York Tribune, Oct. 15). 1904 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as bean curd cheese (Geil 1904). This is the rst of many names containing the word cheese. Indeed fermented tofu is one of the most delicious non-dairy (vegan) cheeses. 1906 (or 1951) Quong Hop & Co. of San Francisco is said to have started making fermented tofu. As recently as 1984, the company was making two popular types, sold in glass jars Bean Cake (Fu-Yu) and Pepper Bean Cake (with akes of hot chili peppers in the brining liquor). Note: Neither we nor the owners of Quong Hop & Co. have been able to nd any proof that the company even existed in 1906. The earliest record we have found that they existed is from a 1930 San Francisco City Directory; they are listed as a grocery store at 135 Waverly Place. The earliest records we have found that they made fermented tofu are from two sources: (1) A listing and ad in a 1951 Yearbook; they were at 133 Waverly Place. (2) A listing in the 1951 San Francisco City Directory; their occupation is described simply as bean cakes. 1909 Oct. 4 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as soy bean cheese (United States Land and Irrigation Exposition). 1919 Dec. Fermented tofu is rst referred to as fermented cheese in a British patent by Li Yu-ying of France. From this fermented cheese he has invented a way to make Western-style cheeses such a Roquefort, Parmesan, or Gruyere. It is interesting to note that all of these Westernstyle cheeses are traditional mold-ripened cheeses. 1912 Tahuli or tahuri, fermented tofu made in the Philippines, is rst described by Gibbs and Agcaoili. 1916 Frank N. Meyer, USDA agricultural explorer in China, rst encounters fermented tofu in China. He sends samples back to Washington, DC. His rst description reads: Parcel No. 125c, contains rst quality Chinese soybean cheese; please taste a little on the point of a knife; it is
extremely appetising. In this future letters he also refers to it as Chinese bean cheese, or bean cheese He notes that there are several kinds of this soft cheese in China. 1917 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as fooyue (Chan 1917). This is the rst of many names with this sound; others are fuyu, fu-yu, foo-yu, etc. 1918 C.Y. Shih, writing in English from the Biology Dept., Soochow Univ., China, describes various types of fermented tofu: ju fu, tsao ju fu, chiang ju fu, ham ju fu, and ching hsien ju fu. 1920 Red fermented tofu is rst mentioned in English by Margaret B. Church of the Bureau of Chemistry, USDA. She refers to it as Chinese red cheese. It is made red by the use of red fermented rice or ang-kak. Church is also the rst to use the terms Chinese cheese, soy cheese, or Chinese soy cheese to refer to fermented tofu. 1929 Sept. 27 The rst scientic studies on fermented tofu are published in a famous article titled A new species of mono-mucor, Mucor sufu, on Chinese soybean cheese, by Nganshou Wai in the prestigious journal Science. Fermented tofu is referred to here (in English) as sufu or tosufu The writer is from the National Hygienic Laboratory, Shanghai, China. The name, which soon starts to be widely used in Western scientic publications, causes considerable confusion because (1) it is largely unknown by Chinese outside of the Shanghai area, and (2) it is not used on commercial products. Wai isolated the main microorganism thought to be responsible for the fermentation and identied it as an new species of Mucor; he proposed the name Mucor sufu. 1944 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as preserved tofu cheese by De Gouy. 1946 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as fermented tofu by Arnold Marquis in a broadcast on NBC radio. 1948 Fermented tofu is rst referred to in English as fermented soybean curd by Manuel E. Arsenio in the Philippines 1949 March A.K. Smith, of the USDA Northern Regional Research Lab. (Peoria, Illinois), after a trip to East Asia to study soyfoods, publishes a long and detailed article in Soybean Digest titled Oriental use of soybeans as food, part of which concerns fermented tofu. He introduces three new varieties and describes how each is made: chee-fan, tsue-fan (drunken cheese), and hon-fan (a red cheese).
1968 N.S. Wai, now living in Taiwan, publishes a nal synopsis of his studies in a major report funded by the United States Agency for International Development. 1970s Many types of fermented tofu begin to be imported into the United States, especially from countries based on Chinese culture (China, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.). 1983-1984 Four articles about delicious tofuyo, made with red koji (beni-koji) are published in Japanese, in leading Japan scientic journals, by Dr. Masaaki Yasuda and colleagues at the Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, University of the Ryukyus (Ryukyu Islands), Okinawa. These included a detailed and carefully documented history (with 37 references) and precise description of the process by which tofuyo is made. With these articles Dr. Yasuda and colleagues introduce tofuyo to the world. 1985 March 9 NHK TV, Japans largest and most respected television station, does a 30-minute documentary titled Tofuyo as part of its series Todays Food. It is lmed in Okinawa. 1990-2010 Dr. Masaaki Yasuda and colleagues in Okinawa publish seven more scientic articles about tofuyo. This time all but the rst have a good English-language summary. 2010 Sept. 22 Quong Hop & Co. les voluntarily for Chapter 7 bankruptcy. The last U.S. maker of wine fermented tofu no longer exists opening up a business opportunity! 2011 July 21 CNN names stinky tofu, a type of fermented tofu, as one of the Worlds 50 most delicious foods (No. 41 out of 50). 2011 Fermented tofu, tofuyo, by Dr. Masaaki Yasuda of Okinawa is published in English as a chapter in a free online book by InTech (Croatia). An excellent summary of his work, with 54 references, it contains good histories of both fermented tofu and of tofuyo. 2011 Popular vegan cheeses in the United States are made by Daiya, Galalaxy Nutritional Foods, and Chicago Soydairy (Teese); each has a website. Most melt, some stretch, The last two are soy-based. But whereas most Chinese love and use fermented tofu, very few vegans or vegetarians are even aware of it or even think of it. Alphabetical list of names of fermented tofu (useful for searching digital / electronic text): Bean cake Bean cheese or bean-cheese Bean curd cheese
Beancurd, preserved Chao Chee-fan Chiang ju fu Chinese bean cheese Chinese cheese Chinese red cheese Chinese soybean cheese Chinese soy cheese Ching Hsien ju fu Chou doufu Chou doufu Chou toufu or chou tou-fu or chou tou fu Doufu-ru or or doufu ru or dou-fu-ru or dou-fu ru Drunk sufu Fermented cheese Fermented curds Fermented bean curd or fermented bean-curd Fermented nam yu Fermented rice sufu (a type of tsao sufu) Fermented soybean curd Fermented tofu Fetid bean curd Fetid tofu Fooh y Foo yee Foo-yu Foo-yue Funan Funiu Funyu Fusu Fuyu Fu Yu or Fu-Yu Fu-Yue or Fu Yue Hakko tofu Ham Ju Fu Hon-fan Hon fang Ju Fu Kwangtung sufu Kwantung sufu Naam y Nam yee Nam yu Nam ye Nan-ru Nan-su Nom yu Nyufu Pehtze (molded tofu cubes) Pickled bean curd or pickled beancurd Pickle beans curd Preserved beancurd
Preserved tofu Preserved tofu cheese Red bean-curd cheese Red fermented tofu Redolent fermented tofu Red preserved bean curd Red soya cheese Red sufu Red sufu cheese Rose sufu Rufu Salted tofu Smelly bean curd or smelly tofu Soya bean cheese Soya cheese Soy bean cheese or soy-bean cheese Soybean cheese Soy curd Soy bean curds Soybean fermented curd Soy cheese or soy-cheese Stinking bean curd Stinking tofu Stinky bean curd Stinky tofu Sufu Tafuri Tahore Tahuli Tahuri Tajure Tajuri Tau-fu yee Tau-hu-yee Tau ju Tau-zu Teo-fu-ru Tofu cheese Tofu-yo or tofuyo Tou fu lu Toufu-ju or Tou-fu-ju Toufu-ru or tou fu ru To-yu Tsao Ju Fu Tsao sufu Tsue-fan or tse-fan Tsui-fang White bean-curd cheese White fermented tofu Wine-fermented tofu Yellow bean-curd cheese Yunnan sufu
44 different document types, both published and unpublished. 709 published documents - extensively annotated bibliography. Every known publication on the subject in every language. 27 original Soyinfo Center interviews and overviews never before published. 50 unpublished archival documents
Thus, it is a powerful tool for understanding the development of this subject from its earliest beginnings to the present. Each bibliographic record in this book contains (in addition to the typical author, date, title, volume and pages information) the authors address, number of references cited, original title of all non-English language publications together with an English translation of the title, month and issue of publication, and the rst authors rst name (if given). For most books, we state if it is illustrated, whether or not it has an index, and the height in centimeters. For commercial soy products (CSP), each record includes (if possible) the product name, date of introduction, manufacturers name, address and phone number, and (in many cases) ingredients, weight, packaging and price, storage requirements, nutritional composition, and a description of the label. Sources of additional information on each product (such as advertisements, articles, patents, etc.) are also given. A complete subject/geographical index is also included.
Most Important Thing: The KEY to using this digital book, which is in PDF format, is to SEARCH IT using Adobe Acrobat Reader: For those few who do not have it, Google: Acrobat Reader - then select the free download for your type of computer. Then... Type [Ctrl+F] to Find. Near the top right of your screen a white box will appear. Click the small down-pointing arrow just to the right of that box to get a menu. Click Open Full Acrobat Search. At the left side of your screen a Search box will open. When asked: What word or phrase would you like to search for? type that word or phrase in the box. For example: tofuyo or Okinawa. No need to use quotation marks. Then click Search. At Results click any line that interests you. For those using a Mac without Acrobat Reader: Safari is often the default browser. Click Edit in the toolbar at top. In the dropdown click Find, then click Find... again. A search bar will open across top of screen with a search box at right. In this box type a word or phrase you would like to search, such as China or Rockefeller Foundation. Click Done then scroll through the various matches in the book. Chronological Order: The publications and products in this book are listed with the earliest rst and the most recent last. Within each year, references are sorted alphabetically by author. If you are interested in only current information, start reading at the back, just before the indexes. A Reference Book: Like an encyclopedia or any other reference book, this work is meant to be searched rst - to nd exactly the information you are looking for - and then to be read. How to Use the Index: A subject and country index is located at the back of this book. It will help you to go directly to the specic information that interests you. Browse through it briey to familiarize yourself with its contents and format. Each record in the book has been assigned a sequential number, starting with 1 for the rst/earliest reference. It is this number, not the page number, to which the indexes refer. A publication will typically be listed in each index in more than one place, and major documents may have 30-40 subject index entries. Thus a publication about the nutritional
value of tofu and soymilk in India would be indexed under at least four headings in the subject and country index: Nutrition, Tofu, Soymilk, and Asia, South: India. Note the extensive use of cross references to help you: e.g. Bean curd. See Tofu. Countries and States/Provinces: Every record contains a country keyword. Most USA and Canadian records also contain a state or province keyword, indexed at U.S. States or Canadian Provinces and Territories respectively. All countries are indexed under their region or continent. Thus for Egypt, look under Africa: Egypt, and not under Egypt. For Brazil, see the entry at Latin America, South America: Brazil. For India, see Asia, South: India. For Australia see Oceania: Australia. Most Important Documents: Look in the Index under Important Documents -. Organizations: Many of the larger, more innovative, or pioneering soy-related companies appear in the subject index companies like ADM / Archer Daniels Midland Co., AGP, Cargill, DuPont, Kikkoman, Monsanto, Tofutti, etc. Worldwide, we index many major soybean crushers, tofu makers, soymilk and soymilk equipment manufacturers, soyfoods companies with various products, Seventh-day Adventist food companies, soy protein makers (including pioneers), soy sauce manufacturers, soy ice cream, tempeh, soynut, soy our companies, etc. Other key organizations include Society for Acclimatization (from 1855 in France), American Soybean Association, National Oilseed/Soybean Processors Association, Research & Development Centers (Peoria, Cornell), Meals for Millions Foundation, and International Soybean Programs (INTSOY, AVRDC, IITA, International Inst. of Agriculture, and United Nations). Pioneer soy protein companies include Borden, Drackett, Glidden, Grifth Labs., Gunther, Laucks, Protein Technologies International, and Rich Products. Soyfoods: Look under the most common name: Tofu, Miso, Soymilk, Soy Ice Cream, Soy Cheese, Soy Yogurt, Soy Flour, Green Vegetable Soybeans, or Whole Dry Soybeans. But note: Soy Proteins: Isolates, Soy Proteins: Textured Products, etc. Industrial (Non-Food) Uses of Soybeans: Look under Industrial Uses ... for more than 17 subject headings.
Pioneers - Individuals: Laszlo Berczeller, Henry Ford, Friedrich Haberlandt, A.A. Horvath, Englebert Kaempfer, Mildred Lager, William Morse, etc. Soy-Related Movements: Soyfoods Movement, Vegetarianism, Health and Dietary Reform Movements (esp. 1830-1930s), Health Foods Movement (1920s-1960s), Animal Welfare/ Rights. These are indexed under the persons last name or movement name. Nutrition: All subjects related to soybean nutrition (protein quality, minerals, antinutritional factors, etc.) are indexed under Nutrition, in one or more of 14 subcategories. Soybean Production: All subjects related to growing, marketing, and trading soybeans are indexed under Soybean Production, e.g., Soybean Production: Nitrogen Fixation, or Soybean Production: Plant Protection, or Soybean Production: Variety Development. Other Special Index Headings: Browsing through the subject index will show you many more interesting subject headings, such as Industry and Market Statistics, Information (incl. computers, databases, libraries), Standards, Bibliographies (works containing more than 50 references), and History (soy-related). Commercial Soy Products (CSP): See About This Book. SoyaScan Notes: This is a term we have created exclusively for use with this database. A SoyaScan Notes Interview contains all the important material in short interviews conducted and transcribed by William Shurtleff. This material has not been published in any other source. Longer interviews are designated as such, and listed as unpublished manuscripts. A transcript of each can be ordered from Soyinfo Center Library. A SoyaScan Notes Summary is a summary by William Shurtleff of existing information on one subject. Note: When this term is used in a records summary, it indicates that the information which follows it has been added by the producer of this database. Asterisks at End of Individual References. 1. An asterisk (*) at the end of a record means that Soyinfo Center does not own that document. Lack of an asterisk means that Soyinfo Center owns all or part of the document. 2. An asterisk after eng (eng*) means that Soyinfo Center has done a partial or complete translation into English of that document. 3. An asterisk in a listing of the number of references [23* ref] means that most of these references are not about soybeans or soyfoods.
Documents Owned by Soyinfo Center. Lack of an * at the end of a reference indicates that the Soyinfo Center Library owns all or part of that document. We own roughly three fourths of the documents listed. Photocopies of hard-to-nd documents or those without copyright protection can be ordered for a fee. Please contact us for details. Document Types: The SoyaScan database contains 130+ different types of documents, both published (books, journal articles, patents, annual reports, theses, catalogs, news releases, videos, etc.) and unpublished (interviews, unpublished manuscripts, letters, summaries, etc.). Customized Database Searches: This book was printed from SoyaScan, a large computerized database produced by the Soyinfo Center. Customized/personalized reports are The Perfect Book, containing exactly the information you need on any subject you can dene, and they are now just a phone call away. For example: Current statistics on tofu and soymilk production and sales in England, France, and Germany. Or soybean varietal development and genetic research in Third World countries before 1970. Or details on all tofu cheesecakes and dressings ever made. You name it, weve got it. For fast results, call us now! BIBLIO: The software program used to produce this book and the SoyaScan database, and to computerize the Soyinfo Center Library is named BIBLIO. Based on Advanced Revelation, it was developed by Soyinfo Center, Tony Cooper and John Ladd. History of Soybeans and Soyfoods: Many of our digital books have a corresponding chapter in our forthcoming scholarly work titled History of Soybeans and Soyfoods (4 volumes). Manuscript chapters from that book are now available, free of charge, on our website, www.soyinfocenter. com. About the Soyinfo Center. An overview of our publications, computerized databases, services, and history is given on our website. Soyinfo Center P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, CA 94549 USA Phone: 925-283-2991 Fax: 925-283-9091 www.soyinfocenter.com
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HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU explanation of food usesis divided into three parts: (1) Explanation of names. Similar to the passage above stating that yellow soybeans are good for making tofu (fu), for pressing to obtain oil, for making jiang, etc. (2) Nature and avor (qiwei): Sweet, warm, nontoxic. (3) Soybean oil (douyou quiwei) nature and avor: Pungent, sweet, and hot (re); slightly toxic. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2003) that uses the term huang dadou to refer to yellow soybeans. Note 3. This is the earliest Chinese-language document seen (Sept. 2006) that uses the term douyou to refer to soybean oil. Note 4. Is fermented tofu (furu) mentioned in this work? After looking carefully through the Chinese document, Dr. H.T. Huang says (2002) he cannot nd any mention of it, after another long search. Moreover, he does not mention this book in the section of his Needham series book about fermented tofu (2000, p. 325-28). However Dr. Masaaki Yasuda, a professor in Okinawa, who has spent his professional career studying tofuyo, a type of fermented tofu, disagrees. When asked by Wm. Shurtleff about this specic point he replied (e-mail of 11 Nov. 2011): You will nd mention of fermented tofu in the Special Issue of Honso Komoku (Bencao Gangmu) by Li Shih-Chen in 1596. Maybe you only checked the main issues of this book, but actually he also published other special issues that were not included in the main issues. You will nd the fermented tofu using the key word furu, not fermented tofu nor rufu. Furu in this book clearly refers to the fermented tofu that you are searching for. Of course I read it myself in this book; I did not hear it from anyone else. Red azuki beans (chixiaodou) are also mentioned in this book; a listing of alternative names, with commentaries, is given. (See Li 1958 #393). White beans (baidou) are also mentioned as follows: White beans (baidou) are mentioned in the Song dynasty. They are also called fandou. The seedlings can be used as a vegetable. They are good eaten raw. In eastern Zhejiang the avor is especially good. They can be used to make jiang and tofu (fu). In the north, the watery white beans (shui baidou) are similar but is not as good. White beans are also called fandou. They can be used to complement congee / gruel (zhou) and cooked rice served as a main dish (fan). According to the author (Li Shizhen) fandou is the same as white azuki beans. Some white beans have a yellow color. The beans are about the size of mung beans (ldou). Plant them in the 4th or 5th month. The leaves of the seedlings are like those of red azuki beans (chixiaodou) and can be eaten. The pods are like those of azuki beans (xiaodou). One kind of pod comes with leaves like those of the soybean (dadou). They can be cooked like rice and used to make tofu (fu). They are of the same category. Nature and avor (qiwei): It is sweet, neutral, and nontoxic. (See Li 1958 #467). (Translated by H.T. Huang, PhD, May 2003). Dr. Huang
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adds: The white bean (baidou) could well be the white azuki bean. 2. Li Rihua. 1610. Penglong yehua [Night discourses by the Penglong mountain]. China. Passage on soy reprinted in C.N. Li 1958 #151, p. 98. Undated. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Png Lung Yeh Hua, by Li Jih-Hua (who lived 1565-1635). Ming dynasty. Penlong mountain is in Anhui province, in central eastern China. The text states (in very literary Chinese): The people of the Xi district are skilled in making tofu. They use a quern (handturned rotary mill stones) made of very ne purple stone. Each pair of stones is worth 2-3 pieces of gold. They are of the quality of inkstone. When the soybeans are ground, the cakes of tofu are completely smooth, without dregs. When you cook them, you do not have to season them with salt or soy nuggets (shi); they have a natural, sweet avor. On this mountain lived old Mr. Wang. He used a clay pot to cook his tofu; the avor is superb. Legend has it that a scholar, Mr. Xu, was unsuccessful in his state examinations. So he threw down his pen and said, How much time does one have in a lifetime? Why not return to my village, heat up my pot, and make tofu? His product became well known as the Tofu of the Xu Pavilion. (Translated by H.T. Huang, PhD, Nov. 2002). The second paragraph has been translated by H.T. Hang (2000, p. 325-26) who notes that this is the earliest document seen (Dec. 2002), worldwide, that mentions fermented tofu: The people from the i District (in southern Anhui) love to ferment hai fu [hai tou fu] in the fall.* They wait until it changes colour and is covered with a hairy coat. The hair is carefully wiped off and the cake gently dried. It is then deep fried in hot oil, just like the making of san pastry. The oil is drained off and the cake cooked together with other food materials. It is said that the product has the avor of yu sh. (Footnote: *Hai is the ancient word for making a sauce by auto-digestion. The hairy growth refers to the fungal mycelium. The i District lies in southern Anhui). Chu Yung-Shung (1981, p. 98A). Fu ru is the fermented form of bean curd. The earliest record for this is in a book called Night Dialogue under the Shade, written by Li Rihuo (1636-1661). He said that fu ru was prepared between summer and autumn in the Qi Men district and briey described the procedure. Yet in the next sentence the author, Chu, contradicts what he has just said. In a famous book on Chinese herbal medicine, Compendium of Materia Medica [Bencao Gangmu], the author, Li Shizhen (1518-1593) describes the preparation in detail. Note 1. This is the earliest Chinese-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls hai fu. Note 2. Concerning the date or year this document rst appeared: C.N. Li (1958, p. 98 #151) gives the date as 1610. H.T. Huang suggests we use that date; it seems reasonable
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU since Li lived 1565-1635. Note 3. Dr. H.T. Huang (Dec. 2002) is unable to nd any mention of fermented tofu in the Bencao Gangmu; he concludes that Chu may have been repeating misinformation started by Morohashi (1955). 3. Shixian hongmi [Guide to the mysteries of cuisine]. 1680. China. Passage on soy reprinted in H.T. Huang 2000, p. 32527. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Shih Hsien Hung Mi. H.T. Huang (2000, p. 623) states that this book is attributed to Wang Shizhen (Wade-Giles: Wang Shih-Chn) but more probably was written by Zhu Yizun (W-G: Chu I-Tsun). Huang states (p. 324) that frozen tofu (dong doufu; W.G. tung toufu) is rst mentioned in Chinese in this work. The section titled Frozen tofu states: In the depths of winter, place a cake of tofu (doufu) outdoors in a basin of water overnight. The water will freeze even though the tofu itself may not. However the beany avor will be lost in the water, leaving the avor of the tofu much improved. Another way is to freeze the tofu itself without the water. When thawed, it will look like a little beehive. Wash it well. Heat it in a soup base or fry it in oil. It will be an unusual dish regardless of how it is cooked. Huang adds that this same description of the process is repeated in the Yang Xiaolu (1698). Note: Dr. Huang states (March 2004) that the term dong doufu almost always refers to tofu that has been frozen, then thawed and dried. However he has never seen an early description of how it was thawed and dried. In addition, he has never heard the term bing doufu (ice tofu), meaning frozen tofu. Huang (2000) states (p. 325) that pressed tofu (doufugan, tofu + dry) is rst mentioned indirectly in this work in connection with the preparation of smoked tofu (xun doufu; W.-G. hsn toufu), which is rst mentioned in Chinese in this 1680 book. The section titled Smoked tofu states: Press tofu until it is as dry as possible. Soak it in brine, wash well, then dry it in the sun [to give doufugan]. Spread sesame oil over the surface, then smoke it. Another method is to soak tofu in brine, wash well, then dry it in the sun. Boil it in soup stock, then smoke it. When William Shurtleff saw pressed tofu (doufugan) prepared in Taiwan and China during the 1970s, it was always pressed using either a hand-turned screw press or a lever-press with huge stones. He never saw it being dried in the sun. Perhaps the efciency of the screw press in removing moisture from the tofu made the sun-drying unnecessary. Note that sun-drying takes extra time and exposes the warm tofu to unwanted microorganisms. Huang (2000, p. 326) translates the earliest known account of making fermented tofu*: To make Fujian (W.-G. Fukien) style fermented tofu (doufuru, W.-G. tou fu ju), press tofu until it contains a little moisture as possible or wrap it in ne cotton paper and desiccate it in fresh ashes. Cut cake into thick square pieces and place them in rows on a
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bamboo steamer pad. After all steamer tiers are lled, cover steamer. [The best time to make it] is in the 2nd or 3rd month in spring or 9th or 10th month in autumn. Place steamer in an airy place. After 5 or 6 days, surfaces [of tofu] will be covered with a hairy growth, which may gradually turn black or greenish red. Wipe hair off tofu squares with a piece of paper. Save it, making sure not to damage the skin. For [the tofu from] each dou of beans, prepare 3 catties of soy sauce and 1 catty of fried salt. (If soy sauce is not available, use 5 catties of salt.) Grind 8 ounces of fresh red ferment spiced with clean peppercorn, fennel and licorice, then mix powder with salt and wine. Place tofu in a jar, add wine sauce mixture, then seal mouth of urn with clay. Allow urn to stand for 6 months; an excellent avour will result. (Footnote: *The original passage is interspersed with notes that describe a variation of the process as it was practiced in Zhejiang (W.-G. Chekiang). These notes make the text somewhat confusing to read, so they were left out in the translation. However, from these notes we can reconstruct the Zhejiang process as follows: After the steamer is lled with tofu squares, steamed them. Place the steamer, while still hot, on a bed of rice straw and cover completely with rice husksin a place with little air movement. Remove tofu squares after 5-6 days. Press down and atten the hairy growth. [This will help to keep the product fresh.] Then layer the squares in a jar. Sprinkle a pinch of salt on each piece of tofu until all surfaces are evenly salted. For each layer of tofu there should be a layer of salt. When salt is dissolved, each piece is heated in the sun by day and marinated in sauce mixture [as indicated in the Fujian process]. Continue sunning and marinating until all sauce is used up. Soak layered tofu in a jar with wine. Then seal mouth of urn with clay. Allow the urn to stand for 6 months and an excellent avour will result). Note: This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2007) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls doufuru. Huang (2000, p. 326) continues by noting: Two other passages in the Shixian Hongmi are also of interest in this connection. One describes a method for making zao rufu (W.-G. tsao ju fu), i.e. fermented tofu (furu) aged with a fermented mash [rice wine dregs]: Transfer ripened rufu or samples that are too salty in layers to a new vessel. Line fermented mash or residue between layers and allow material to age. A product with a unique avor is obtained. The other deals with the making of doufu fu (W.-G. tou fu fu), a deep fried stinky dewatered tofu: Take good quality [pieces of] tofu and grill in oil. Then cover with a cloth screen to keep out ies and other insects. When a stinky odour is developed, fry the pieces again in hot boiling oil. The avor is excellent. Note: This stinky tofu is probably chou doufu. If it is, this is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions a type of chou doufu (stinky tofu). Huang (2000, p. 326-27) comments further: Two
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU interesting points emerge from these passages. First, by the time that the Shixian Hongmi (+1680) was published, furu and rufu had apparently become synonyms for fermented tofu. The word fu could now mean a gel or custard made from any edible suspension or emulsion of food material, and ru any type of dairy or soy milk derived product. Second, although the word zha (W.-G. cha) was not used, there is no question that the frying in boiling oil shown in the second passage indicates that deep frying was a common method of cookery during the Ming dynasty. Huang (2000, p. 341) states that this book contains an interesting recipe in which soy nuggets (shi) are stewed with pieces of pressed tofu (doufugan) and bamboo shoots. A full-page table (Huang, p. 372) shows the Usage of soy condiments in food recipes from the Han to the Qing dynasties. Seasonings based on jiang (fermented soybean paste) are used in 49 recipes: jiang itself in only 8, soy sauce made from jiang named qingjiang in 1 recipe, soy sauce named jiangyou in a whopping 37 recipes, soy sauce named jiangzhi in 2 recipes, and soy sauce named jiangshui in one recipe. Seasonings based on soy nuggets (shi) are used in only 6 recipes: Soy nuggets (shi) in 4 recipes, and soy nugget sauce named shizhi in 2. Talk with H.T. Huang. 2001. Feb. 20. This 1680 book contains a recipe titled Soy Sauce Pressed Tofu (Jiangyou Fugan) which states: Cut pressed tofu (doufugan) into pieces. Mix 1 catty of soy sauce with 2 catties of water. Filter the liquid mixture then boil it. Filter it again to remove any remaining residue. Now add to the liquid: mushrooms and 4 different spices (dingxiang, baiqi, dahuixiang, and guipi {cassia bark, Cinnamomum cassia}), and tofu. Boil for several minutes. Remove from heat and allow to stand for half a day. The color still will not be very dark. Remove tofu from liquid and dry it. After 1 night, repeat the process of boiling and soaking several times. Note: This yields a highly seasoned tofu with a long shelf life at room temperature. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2004) that recommends adding mushrooms or spices / seasonings to soy sauce to enhance its avor. 4. Li Hua-Nan; Li Diao-Yuan. 1750? Xingyuan lu [Memoir from the garden of awareness]. China. Undated. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Hsing Yan Lu, by Li Hua-Nan, compiled by his son Li Tiao-Yan. Qing dynasty. H.T. Huang (2000, p. 324), in the section on frozen tofu, states that dried frozen tofu is rst mentioned in this work, which suggests: Allow a whole batch of thinly sliced frozen tofu squares to thaw slowly, then store them in a cool place so they can be used in the summer. Huang (2000, p. 327), in the section on Making of fermented tofu states: Technically the most interesting accounts of the making of furu are found in the Xingyuan lu (1750). Five recipes are presented, representing two types of methodology. One uses ground wheat ferment as shown
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in the translation given below: First prepare yellow wheat ferment as previously described and comminute it to a ne powder. Take ten catties of fresh tofu and two catties of salt. Cut the tofu into thin rectangular pieces. Sprinkle a layer of salt over a layer of tofu. Allow the tofu to soak in the brine [that is generated]. After ve or six days remove the tofu but keep the juice for later use. Arrange the tofu pieces neatly in a steamer and steam until they are well cooked. Hang the steamer with its contents in an empty room for half a month when the tofu becomes covered with luxuriant fungal growth. After scraping off the hairy surface the pieces are air dried. Now treat the tofu with dry yellow ferment as follows. Decant the salty juice from the soaking step and mix in dried ferment to form a paste. Spread a layer of tofu over a layer of ferment paste and cover with a layer of fragrant (i.e., sesame) oil. Add a few whole pieces of fagara. Place the stacks in a crock and seal the mouth securely with mud. Warm the crock in the sun during the day. After a month the product will be ready for the table. Huang adds (p. 327): The other methodology uses the mash left from the fermentation of wine from grains. Huang (2000, p. 341-42) also notes that the process for making soy nuggets (shi) described in the Bencao Gangmu (The great pharmacopoeia) (1596) is repeated in four recipes in this book. Although the rst stage, the production of soybean koji (molded soybeans) remains unchanged, a variety of additional materials such as fagara, sugar, wine, melon juice, melon meat, melon seeds, liquorice [licorice], mint, magnolia bark, fritillary corm [fritilaria; bulbous herbs of the lily family] etc. have been included in one or more recipes for the second stage incubation. These herbs and spices gave each product its own unique fragrance and avor. One of the four recipes calls for the use of wheat our. Huang observes that when the amount of wheat our is large, the process becomes very similar to that for making soybean jiang. In addition (Huang 2000, p. 363-64) translates the detailed method for making soy sauce, which is presented as a method for making qingjiang (clear jiang): Clean and wash one dou of yellow soybeans. Boil beans until soft and the color has turned red. Blend beans and cooking water uniformly with 24 catties white wheat our. Form into cakes, arrange on bamboo or willow [leaf] trays, then cover with rice straw. Place trays in a wind-free room, and incubate for 7 days or until a good growth of mycelium appears. Remove the straw. Place trays in the sun during the day; bring them indoors at night. Repeat the procedure for 14 days. If it rains during the day, trays should be placed in the sun for addition days until the total of 14 days is attained. This is how to make the yellow koji for jiang (jianghuang). For each dou of yellow koji for jiang, measure 5 dou of well water into an earthenware crock. Measure exactly 15 catties of raw salt into a bamboo basket, and hang the basket in the well water [inside the crock] until all the salt
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU dissolves in the water. Discard any residue in the basket. Mix the yellow koji into the water; let it warm in the sun for 3 days. On the morning of the 4th day, remove earthenware crock from sun and stir contents well with a wooden paddle. Two days later, remove from sun and stir again. Repeat this procedure 3-4 times. After about 20 days, the clear jiang (qingjiang, or soy sauce) should be ready for use. To separate the soy sauce (qingjiang), use a nely woven cylindrical bamboo tube that is open at both ends. People in southern China call this a circular sieve for jiang (jiangchou). It is widely available in local markets of the capital [Beijing]. The same markets also sells various sizes of covers for the crocks. When the jiang / mash is ready [it has a consistency resembling that of applesauce], push the woven bamboo tube down into its center until the bottom of the tube rests securely on the bottom of the crock. Remove the jiang inside the tube so that the bottom of the crock is clearly visible. Place a brick atop the tube to prevent it from oating upwards. Liquid soy sauce will ow from the jiang mash into the tube. The next morning the tube should be lled with liquid. Use a bowl to transfer this clear soy sauce into a clean crock. Cover the crock with a piece of cloth to prevent ies from falling in. Warm the crock in the sun for half a month. To make more soy sauce, increase the amount of raw materials. After the sauce is ready, you can also use a sieve to collect the soybeans that oat to the top of the mash. When half-dried, these beans make delicious soy nuggets or fermented bean relish (doushi). A full-page table (Huang, p. 372) shows the Usage of soy condiments in food recipes from the Han to the Qing dynasties. Seasonings based on jiang (fermented soybean paste) are used in 10 recipes: jiang itself in 4, soy sauce made from jiang named qingjiang in 5 recipes, and soy sauce made from jiang named jiangyou in 1 recipes. A seasoning named douyou is used in 8 recipes. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2005) in which a soy-based seasoning named douyou (W.-G. tou yu) is mentioned. Huang states (p. 371) that douyou is written with the Chinese characters for bean + oil. Wilkinson (2000, p. 646) states that this book (late 18th century) is the rst Chinese collection of recipes from a regional cuisinethat of Sichuan. Fukushima (1989, p. 6): The general manufacturing methods of soy sauce in the Ching (Shin in Japanese) dynasty are recorded in Ching-yuan Lu (sic, Hsing-yuan Lu; Seienroku in Japanese), written by Li Hua-nan (Ri Kanan in Japanese). Cooked soybeans and uncooked wheat were the raw materials used in koji making. The resultant koji was mixed with brine. After aging, the soy sauce was collected by pressing a deep bamboo colander into the aged mash and ladling out the liquid which had accumulated. Bo (1982): Describes the method for making chiang-yu (soy sauce).
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5. Ka, Hitsujun. 1783. Tfu hyakuchin zokuhen [One hundred rare and favorite tofu recipes: Sequel]. Osaka: Kochiya Moheibei. 280 p. (40 cho). Photoreproduction of original edition. Edited by Abe Koryu, with rendering into modern Japanese. Tokyo: Shinshu Shorin. 280 p. Publ. 1971. Japanese summary by Kawakami 1978. [Jap] Summary: The second volume of the popular Tofu Hyakuchin, which see. Beautiful illustrations (black-and-white wood-block prints on unnumbered pages) show: (1) A lady in a kimono kneeling on her right knee in front of a low table on which are piled cakes of tofu. With a knife in her right hand, she is about to cut the tofu.
(2) A restaurant in a temple with various people seated and walking. (3) A busy city street with people walking and eating in restaurants, whose fronts are open to the street, and whose names appear on a little cloth sign (noren) hanging from the eves. (4) Dengaku HoshiA Buddhist priest balancing on a single stilt called a herons leg. (5) A hand holding a Japanese-style vegetable knife cutting a large block of tofu rested in an L-shaped wooden support; this helps in cutting the tofu into thin slices / sheets. (6) A speciallyshaped long wooden box (tsukidashi) having about the same
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU cross section as that of a block of tofu, with a handle on one end, a screen over the opposite exit end, and a wooden pusher, which is used to push a block of tofu into the box and through the screen, thereby creating tofu noodles, similar to those called tokoroten made from a block of gelled tengusa / gelidium seaweed. Masaaki Yasuda states in Fermented tofu, tofuyo (2011, p. 302): The earliest known reference to fermented tofu in Japan comes from Osaka. In 1883, Ka Hitsu Jun published the famous book, Tofu Hyaku Chin Zokuhen (The Sequel to One Hundred Favorite Tofu Recipes). In this book, red tofu and the other fermented tofu, tofu-ji, were introduced. According to the book, how to make the red tofu was a family secret, and few details on its production were provided. The other description was clearly of Chinese style red furu, because the materials not only included red koji from China, shiro zake (white sake, Chinese distilled liquor named Bai-Jiu), sansho (Japanese spice, this spice seems to be used instead of chili), but also refer to it as tofu-ji and use the same method of preparation. 6. Yuan Mei. 1790. Suiyuan shidan [Recipes from the Sui garden]. China. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Sui Yan Shih Tan, by Yan Mei. Qing dynasty. H.T. Huang (2000, p. 323-24), in the section titled Products associated with tou fu, states that this is the earliest document seen that mentions fresh tofu curds. In a recipe for Hibiscus Tofu (fuyong doufu) the famous Qing dynasty gastronome says (p. 100): Place fresh tofu curds (funao = tofu brain) in well water and heat to boiling three times to remove the beany avor. Suspend the curds in chicken soup and heat again to boiling. Before serving, garnish with laver / nori (Porphyra, a sea vegetable) and pieces of shrimp. Later, fresh tofu curds were also called tofu owers (douhua or doufu hua). Concerning frozen tofu, Huang states (p. 324) that a recipe in this book states: Boil the thawed tofu in water to remove the remaining beany avor, then simmer it in a soup base. Huang also states (p. 325, 364) that both pressed tofu (doufugan) and smoked tofu (xun doufu) are mentioned in this book. Concerning fermented tofu, Huang (2000, p. 327) notes: By the middle of the Qing dynasty local varieties of furu had begun to win national fame, such as the furu of Suzhou [in southern Jiangsu; W.-G. Su-chou or Soochow, formerly Wuhsien] and the white furu of Guangxi [or Guangxi Zhangzu, an autonomous region in southeast China; W.-G. Kuangsi]. The Suiyuan Shidan says: Rufu: The ones from the [shops] near the front of the Temple of General Wn in Suzhou are particularly good. The colour is black, and the avour is clean. There are two types, a wet and a dry. The product with some shrimp paste in it is
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also attractive, but may have a slight shy taste. The white furu from Guangxi (Kuangsi) is also outstanding, especially that made by the family of the ofcial Wang Ku. A full-page table (Huang, p. 372) shows the Usage of soy condiments in food recipes from the Han to the Qing dynasties. Seasonings based on jiang (fermented soybean paste) are used in 48 recipes: Jiang itself in 15, soy sauce made from jiang named qingjiang in a 24 recipes, soy sauce named jiangyou in 2 recipes, soy sauce named jiangzhi in 1 recipe, and soy sauce named jiangshui in 6 recipes. Soy nuggets (shi) are used in 2 recipes, and a new type of soy sauce named qiuyou (W.-G. chiu yu) is used in a whopping 62 recipes. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2005) in which a soy-based seasoning named qiuyou is mentioned. Huang states (p. 371) that qiuyou is written with the Chinese characters for autumn + oil, implying a sauce harvested in autumn. Wilkinson (2000, p. 647-48). This was the most famous recipe book of its day, yet wok dishes accounted for only 16% of the recipes. Yuan Mei (lived 1716-1798) was one of Chinas four most famous literati gourmands; they exerted a considerable inuence on the development of a higher cuisine, especially when they compiled their own cookbooks... Letter from Dr. H.T. Huang. 1996. Sept. 29. Page 103 mentions mock roast goose made with yam wrapped in tou fu pi (yuba). Dr. H.T. Huang, expert on the history of Chinese food and agriculture (personal communication, 5 June 1993), gives the date of this document as +1790, and the English translation of the title as Recipes from the Sui Garden. He notes that page 107 contains three recipes for gluten. Newman (1989) states: The idea of freezing bean curd is not new. Iced Bean Curd is one of Yuan Meis recipes from the Xi Yuan Cookery Book written near the end of the 18th century. This book by a poet, government ofcial and author, is a very comprehensive volume of over 300 recipes, only some are about tofu. One difference is that the Iced Bean Curd recipe is meant to be served hot, the doufu in it is rst frozen then prepared for use. Bo (1982): In this work Yan Mei states that it is more graceful for a writer to use the term ching chiang instead of chiang-yu when referring to soy sauce. Hummel (1944, p. 955-56): Yan Mei lived 17161798. A poet, literary critic, and essayist, he was a native of Chien-tang (Hangchow). Resigning (1748) from his post as magistrate of Chiang-ning, he retired (1749) to his newly acquired Garden of Contentment, Sui-yan, near Nanking. From 1784-1795, spent in alternate travel and quiet seclusion, he came to be known as one of the most skillful poets of his time. Reichl (1985): Yuan Mei has been called the the 18th century philosopher of the table. His sayings are widely quoted. For example: A great cook cannot with the utmost
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU application produce more than four great dishes a day. Address: China. 7. Hall, Basil. 1818. Account of a voyage of discovery to the west coast of Corea, and the Great Loo-Choo Island;... London: John Murray. 222 p. See p. 95-97. Translated in 1982 into Japanese by SUDO Toshikazu as Bahiru Hooru Dairyukyuto Kokai Tanken-ki. Dai-ichi Shobo, publisher. See p. 36, 64. [1 ref. Eng] Summary: This book starts when the authors ship lands in China in Aug. 1816. It contains the earliest indirect reference seen to fermented tofu in Okinawa or Ryukyu. In 1816 Captain Hall, an Englishman, visited Naha harbor in Okinawa on his way from China. On 23 Sept. 1816 he and his party and Captain Maxwell went to visit the king of Loochoo (todays Ryukyu Islands, including Okinawa). They enjoyed a meal of local food with a Loochoo chief. A detailed description of the meal is given (p. 95-97). An entertainment was now served, beginning with a light kind of wine, called sackee (sak), which was handed round in very diminutive cups, lled... from a small high pot in which the sackee was kept hot. They insisted on our emptying the cup every time, showing us a fair example themselves. During the whole feast the sackee never left the table, being considered apropos to all the strange dishes which we partook of. The rst of these consisted of hard boiled eggs, cut into slices, the outside of the white being colored red. A pair of chopsticks was now given to each person... There was something like cheese given us after the cakes, but we cannot form a probable conjecture of what it was made. Most of the dishes were so good that we soon made a hearty dinner... The author states (p. 217) that milk is never used on the island. Note 1. The red color was probably imparted to the outside of the shelled eggs by red koji (beni koji) and the food resembling cheese may well have been tofuyo, a special type of fermented tofu, which is also made with red koji and for which this area was famous. There is no information on fermented tofu in Korea. Note 2. If the above conjectures are true, this would be the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions tofuyo or Okinawan wine-fermented tofu, and the earliest Englishlanguage document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu. It would also be the earliest document seen (March 2002) that mentions red koji (beni koji). Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (May 2011) that mentions Okinawa in connection with soy. Note 4. Chopsticks are also mentioned elsewhere in this book (p. 116, 160): for instance, when we rst tried to eat with their chopsticks: on that occasion there was a sort of giggling embarrassment shewn by some of us,... Address: England. 8. Tokashiki, Tskan Peichin. 1832. Gyozen hons [Food
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herbal]. Japan. In Higaonna Kanjuns 1955 hand-written copy of the original book (located at the Okinawa Prefectural Library), see pages 23 and 27. [Jap]* Summary: E.H. Walker (1976) states: Originally published in about 1860. Treats animal as well as plant foods, with Japanese names only... A new edition was published in 1961 in Okinawa. The author, T. Tokashiki, lived 1793-1845. Yasuda (1983, p. 839), in discussing how to eat tofuyo, states In the Gyozen Hons (Food Herbal) (1832, a book about food and medicine) the physician TOKASHIKI Tskan Peichin wrote: Tofuyo has a delicious avor and is good for the stomach. It makes eating a pleasure and is good for various types of sickness (Ref. #9; Note: This book contains the earliest known direct reference to tofuyo. Peichin refers to a high-ranking ofcer). 9. Wang Rizhen. 1850? Huya [Lakeside elegance]. China. Passages on soy reprinted in H.T. Huang 2000, p. 319-20, 324-25. Undated. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Hu Ya, by Wang JihChn. H.T. Huang (2000, p. 319-20), in the section titled Products associated with tou fu, notes that by the 19th century many products derived from soymilk had been developed. The most complete discussion of these appears in this book, published in about 1850: Tofu (doufu) is prepared by grinding soybeans nely [with water], cooking the milk in a caldron, then coagulating it with gypsum or nigari. Before coagulation, the soymilk is called doufu jiang (tofu + thick liquid). Note 1. This is the earliest Chinese-language document seen (Aug. 2003) that uses the term doufu jiang to refer to soymilk. The curds are wrapped in a piece of cloth then placed in a wooden box, where excess water is drained off. The soft product is called soft tofu (shuidoufu, watery tofu). The soft curds (before they are pressed into blocks of tofu) are called doufu hua (tofu owers) or doufu nao (tofu brain). Curds which have been placed in layers between sheets of cloth, then pressed, are known as qian zhang (thousand leaves) or baiye (hundred sheets / leaves). Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2003) that mentions pressed tofu sheets, or the names qian zhang or baiye. When soymilk is heated, a lm forms on the surface. When it is lifted off, it is called doufu i (tofu robes) or doufu pi (tofu skin) as noted in the Bencao Gangmu (The great pharmacopoeia) (+1596). Note 3. This lm is called yuba in English. When small pieces of tofu are deep fried, giving a golden-brown outer surface surrounding a hollow interior, they are called deep-fried tofu (you doufu, literally oil tofu).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note 4. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2003) that mentions deep-fried tofu or you doufu. When rmly pressed tofu is cut into small pieces then simmered in soy sauce, the product is known as doufugan. Note 5. Soyinfo Center believes that pressed tofu is now called doufugan and that pressed tofu simmered in soy sauce is now called jiangyou doufugan. When pressed tofu is cooked with ve spices it is called ve-spice pressed tofu (wuxiang doufugan). The plain pressed tofu is known as bai doufugan (white tofu dry). When dried tofu is smoked by burning shavings it becomes smoked tofu (xun doufu). When pressed tofu is soaked in brine and fermented, the product is called chou doufugan (stinky pressed tofu / foul-smelling pressed tofu). Note 6. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that clearly mentions a type of chou doufu (stinky tofu) or that mentions chou doufugan (stinky pressed tofu). Talk with H.T. Huang. 2001. Feb. 20. Tofu was seasoned and avored long before the rst description of the products in this book in about 1850. The use of ve-spice was already in common use in China during the Ming dynasty (13681644), if not earlier. Five-spice tofu, made by simmering pressed tofu (doufugan) is a sauce seasoned with ve spice, has the advantage of a longer shelf life than regular tofu. 10. Montgaudry, Baron de. 1855. Compte rendu des expriences faites pour lacclimatation des semences importes en France par M. de Montigny [Report of experiments made on the acclimatization of seeds imported into France by Mr. de Montigny]. Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation 2(1):16-22. Jan. See p. 17, 20-22. [Fre] Summary: For years Mr. de Montigny has been sending seeds and plants from China to the Society for Acclimatization. When he last returned from China, in April 1854, Mr. de Montigny brought ve varieties of seeds; a portion of this collection was entrusted to the Society for Acclimatization for experimentation. Mr. Montgaudry was given responsibility by the Society for Acclimatization for distributing these ve varieties of seeds to its members. These seeds were three varieties of rice, a variety of green bean (Haricot) unknown in France, alpist or canary-grass (Alpiste), giant maize / corn (Mas gant), and two varieties of soybeans (Pois olagineux, literally oil peas) (p. 17). The two varieties of soybeans are completely dissimilar. One has small green seeds; the other has rather large yellow seeds. These seeds are very precious and of the highest usefulness for France. Every year, France is obliged to buy from abroad more than 30 million francs worth of edible oil, but during the years when the two types of rapeseed (les Colzas et les Navettes) freeze or cannot produce because of drought, some 60 to 80 million francs
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must leave the country [to buy oil]. The two types of rapeseed only grow successfully on choice land, which must be both light and rich in humus. Generally, this quality of land comprises only a small proportion of the total is almost all localities [in France]. The soybean (Le Pois), however, is much less choosy about the soils where it grows well: it prospers on all terrains. In the valleys it grows wonderfully and on the mountains it gives good crops (p. 20). The soybeans brought back by M. de Montigny are cultivated on a large scale in the elds of northern China. It is principally in the provinces of Honan, Shantung, and Shansi that one nds vast expanses covered with these soybeans. The climate of these provinces is quite similar to that of our own so-called cold provinces. In China there is a large trade based on products obtained from these soybeans. The oil is used in many ways and is preferred to rapeseed oil and colza oil (rened rapeseed oil). Although it has an aftertaste of peas or beans, this is not as disagreeable as the bitterness from rapeseed or colza oils. With the addition of a little lard, it becomes similar in avor to second-grade olive oil. Note 1. He was referring to unrened, probably ltered soy oil. The residue left after expressing the oil is in the form of cakes, which the Chinese use to fatten their livestock and enrich their soil. These cakes are a powerful soil amendment in the countryside. Note 2. Websters Dictionary denes a soil amendment as a substance that aids plant growth indirectly by improving the condition of the soil. In China, soybeans are transformed into both a food for the poor and a seasoning highly regarded by the rich. For the poor, the our of these soybeans [i.e. ground soybeans] is used to prepare a pat resembling that of fromage blanc (a fresh dairy cheese resembling cream cheese), known in France as fromage la pie; it [i.e., tofu] is sold in public places for a few cents (centimes) a portion and cut into cakes by means of a brass wire according to the customers wishes. Ordinarily the Chinese fry their pat or cheese (fromage) [tofu] in the oil which also comes from soybeans; this fried food is highly esteemed. For the rich, a seasoning (assaisonnement) is prepared which requires more care and culinary talent. The soybean pat (La pte de Pois) [tofu] is fermented after having been seasoned with pepper, salt, powdered bay/laurel leaves, powdered thyme, and other aromatics. During the fermentation, the producer bastes the pat with soybean oil (lhuile de Pois). After several days of fermentation, the preparation is ready. This pat or cheese (fermented tofu) becomes a very powerful digestive (aid to digestion) and an aperitif, which no one can resist because it is extremely tasty. At Kaifeng in Honan, at Tsinan in Shantung, and at Taiyuan in Shanshi, the oil and cheese of soybeans are made in huge amounts, and are consumed locally. But the city of Ning-po, capital of Chekiang, is the center of production and of shipping of various products made from soybeans. The
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU port of Ning-po is hard to reach in large vessels, but they can stop at the island of Choushan, where there is a very good port. Thousands of Chinese junks leave Ning-po and travel along the coast of China with no cargo but the products of soybeans, which they carry to all parts of the Celestial Empire, to Japan, and to all countries where they are known. Soybeans have produced seeds in France since 1854. Their acclimatization is assured. Unfortunately we still have only a small quantity of seed, but M. de Montigny, who must return to China, will send the Society a large enough amount so that this precious seed will soon be distributed to all parts of France. This will be an eminent service rendered to the nation. Note 3. Monsignor Louis C.N.M. de Montigny, bearer of the seeds, was born at Hamburg of French parents in 1895. In 1843 he went to China and in 1847 he was appointed Consular Agent at the port of Shanghai, where he stayed, with promotions, until 1895. There he rendered great services to natural science and horticulture by introducing into France useful Chinese plants and animals, via the Society for Acclimatization (Bretschneider 1898, p. 536). Note 4. The Baron of Montgaudry, author of this article, was the nephew of Comte Georges-Louis Leclerc de Buffon (1707-1788), a French naturalist who held the prestigious position of superintendent of the Royal Garden (Jardin du Roi/Roy, Jardin des Plantes) in Paris and was on the cabinet of the Natural History Museum. According to Paillieux (1880, p. 561) starting in 1739, French missionaries in China sent Buffon specimens and seeds of the most important plants in that country. Soybeans were probably received and planted by 1739 or 1740, and denitely by 1779. Buffon was a contemporary and ardent opponent of Linnaeus. He must have been disappointed when, in 1744, Louis XV issued the order that the Linnaean system was to be adopted in the future. Buffon was the author of the superbly illustrated Histoire Naturelle (1749-1804) in 44 volumes, some of them published posthumously. Note 5. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2001) concerning soybeans in France, or the cultivation of soybeans in France. Note 6. This is also the earliest document seen (June 2001) describing the work of the Society for Acclimatization in France with soybeans. Note 7. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that mentions tofu, which it calls La pte de Pois. It is also the earliest French-language document seen that compares tofu to cheese (fromage) or to the particular French cheese named fromage la pie. Note 8. This is the earliest Western-language, or Frenchlanguage, document seen (Sept. 2006) that mentions soy oil, which it calls lhuile de Pois [olagineux]. This is also the earliest document seen (April 2002) concerning the etymology of soy oil. Note 9. This is the earliest Western-language document
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seen (Nov. 2002) that mentions fermented tofu. Note 10. This is also the earliest document seen in the Western World that mentions an industrial (non-food) use of soybeans (as a fertilizer for the soil). Note 11. This is the earliest document seen (May 2005) that mentions avor problems with soyin this case, soybean oil. Note 12. This is the earliest document seen (June 2007) that mentions the use of junks (or barges or boats) or water to transport soybeans or soy products within a country (China). Address: French Consul at Shanghai and Ning-po, China. 11. Geoffroy Saint-Hilaire, Isidore. 1855. Sance du 30 mars 1855 [Meeting of 30 March 1855: Fermented tofu or Chinese cheese from M. de Montigny]. Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation 2:233-40. April. See p. 238-39. [Fre] Summary: The president informed the Society that M. de Montigny [the French consul in Shanghai] had made them a gift of four bottles containing oil obtained from the soybean (des huiles obtenues du Pois olagineux), cotton, tea, and cabbage (Chou [perhaps rapeseed, which later was usually called colza in French]). Our colleague, Mr. Frmy, is in charge of examining these oils. Mr. Montigny likewise made them a gift of a pot of tofu, Chinese cheese made with the soybean (un pot de Teou-fou, fromage chinois faite avec le Pois olagineux); it constitutes one of the principal elements of the Chinese diet. Note 1. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term fromage chinois (Chinese cheese) to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (April 2003) in the Western world that mentions both cotton seed oil and soybean oil. Address: President of the Imperial Zoological Society for Acclimatization (Socit Zoologique dAcclimatation). 12. Towns (B.) and Co. 1858. The undersigned offer for sale, the following Chinese goods... (Ad). Argus (The) (Melbourne, Victoria, Australia). April 24. p. 2. Summary: ... now landing, ex Panama, from Hong Kong, Kum chum, vermicelli, soo lew. Beanstick [probably dried yuba], or maccaroni [macaroni], red dates, peas. Pearl barley, honied dates, green ginger. Chinese oil in jars; salted vegetables. Salted turnips (pieces), white beans curd [tofu]. Pickle beans curd [probably pickled bean curd, which is fermented tofu?], green peas. This ad also appears in the April 26 issue (p. 3). Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (March 2010) stating that beanstick (probably dried tofu), white beans curd (tofu), or pickled beans curd (probably fermented tofu) are now in Australia. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term pickle beans curd / pickled bean curd to refer to fermented tofu. Note 3. In 1851 gold was discovered in Victoria, in southeast Australia. A huge gold rush followed that lasted until the late 1860s. In 10 years from 1851 to 1861 Australias population nearly tripled. As was the case with the California gold rush two years earlier (1849+) large numbers of Chinese joined the stampede. These three Chinese soyfood products were clearly imported for the Chinese. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2010) that uses the word Beanstick (or Beansticks) to refer to what is probably dried yuba rolls. Note 5. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2011) that mentions yuba as an item of international trade. Address: 26 William-Street [Melbourne]. 13. Lachaume, J. 1859. Avantages du Pois olagineux de la Chine [Advantages of Chinese oil peas (soybeans)]. Revue Horticole: Journal dHorticulture Pratique (Paris) 8(8):22224. April 16. Series 4. [1 ref. Fre] Summary: In the Revue Horticole (16 Nov. 1857, p. 568) we have given information about the soybean (Pois olagineux de la Chine; Soja hispida, Moench) and about the type of cultivation that suits it. New experiments, conducted in 1858, have shown us that this legume can be very well acclimatized in France. Thus, on 18 April 1858, some seeds were sown in Vitry-surSeine, a locality whose soil is clay-calcium carbonate and naturally cold... Until Aug. 1, the time when the plants had attained 70 cm of height and were showing their rst owers, the care of the plants was limited to hoeing and weeding. The rest of the seeds were sown the same day in a nursery on a at-band exposed to noonday sun. On April 26, the cotyledons came up; two weeks later, we replanted them in lines with the same spacing as before, without watering them and without the plants becoming fatigued. On June 16, at a temperature of 30C, we planted a third lot of these beans in a square. The rst beans sown on April 18 and those that were replanted, bore the drought without any water other than that which fell from the sky; they came to maturity around Oct. 15. This success permits us to place in commerce, for 1859, the quantity of seeds that we have harvested, with the requirement to keep some for the horticultural societies that will ask for them. The beautiful tests that M. Vilmorin did in Feb. 1858 to determine the quantity of oil contained in his seeds, will encourage amateurs to introduce this new bean into their gardens and farms. According M. Vilmorin, a rst test showed that the seeds contained 21.32% oil, and a second 21.16%. Besides the advantage of yielding oil, these beans can
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furnish an excellent cheese (fromage; [tofu]) that the Chinese make by boiling and then crushing the seeds in a mortar. A very white liquid [sic, curds] is produced that thickens if one applies pressure to it. One next places the paste in molds, adding salt in the French manner. The cheeses thus obtained provide an important source of nourishment for the working class. There are numerous varieties of Soja hispida; we have cultivated some of them experimentally. To summarize, soybeans from China would be a good acquisition from many points of view: 1. As an oilseed; 2. As an edible plant, because the fresh seeds [edamam] are easy to cook and furnish a pleasant (agrable) food, such as the samples from Sept. 1858 have proven; 3. As a forage plant which can yield a large harvest, when one possesses a sufcient quantity of seeds to operate on a large scale; 4. As a plant whose seeds can be used to make cheese [fermented tofu], a test that M. Vilmorin did not hesitate to make. Address: Arboriculteur at Vitry-sur-Seine. 14. Wang Shixiong. 1861. Suixiju yinshipu [Discourse on food and drink from the Random Rest Studio]. China. Passages on soy reprinted in H.T. Huang 2000, p. 319n, 324, 371-73. And in N. Wai, 1964, p. 92. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Sui Hsi Ch Yin Shih Pu, by Wang Shih-Hsiung. Qing dynasty. The section on fermented tofu states: Firm tofu (doufugan) is difcult to digest. Children, the elderly, and sick people should not eat it. If you transform rm tofu into fermented tofu (furu) it will be good for sick people / patients; it gets better the longer it is aged. (Translated by H.T. Huang, PhD, April 2003). H.T. Huang (2000, p. 319n, 653) states that the list of tofu products in this book (p. 63) is similar to that published about 11 years earlier (ca. 1850) in: Hu Ya (Lakeside elegance), by Wang Rizhen. Huang (p. 324) states that this is the second earliest known Chinese document to mention pressed tofu sheets (qianzhang {W.-G. chien chang} or baiye {W.-G. pai yeh}). Huang (p. 371-73) states that, according to this book, the rst batch of soy sauce, produced during the summer and harvested in the fall, was called qiuyou (W.-G. chiu yu) (fall oil). It is called for by this name in 62 recipes in the book. Huang adds that the term is almost never used today. The book also describes an unusual use for wheat gluten: If one accidentally swallows a coin, roast some gluten without destroying its shape, grind well, mix with boiled water and drink. If the coin is caught in the throat, it will be coughed up. If it is in the stomach, it will be eliminated with the stool (Huang 2000, p. 501). Huang (personal communication, 5 June 1993), notes that page 28 states: Mien-chin is made by kneading wheat dough under water. It is cooling, disperses heat, mitigates thirst and dispels anxieties. But it is not easy to digest, and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU should be chewed well. Wai (1964, p. 92) translates the section on fermented tofu: Hardened tofu is difcult to digest, and is not good for children, old people, or patients. Sufu [fermented tofu], which is prepared from tofu and gets better the longer it is aged, is very good for patients. Wai concludes: Therefore, we may presume that soybean cheese [fermented tofu] was sold long before the Ching [Qing] dynasty. He then describes the ancient process. The cubes of tofu are inoculated with the fungus by arranging them on a large bamboo tray and covering them with rice straw (on which the fungus grows wild). 15. Product Name: [Fermented Tofu, and Tofu]. Foreign Name: Doufu-ru, Doufu. Manufacturers Name: Wo Sing & Co. Manufacturers Address: 708 Dupont St., San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1878.
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is approximately proportional to the number of pages of business listings. San Francisco, p. 1-48. Sacramento, p. 4960. Marysville, p. 61. Portland (Oregon), p. 64-68. Stockton, p. 69-74. San Jose, p. 75-83. Virginia City (Nevada), p. 8486. Note: This is the earliest directory seen (i.e., publication with the word Directory in the title; April 2001) that lists a soy-related company. Address: San Francisco. 17. Hartford Daily Courant (Connecticut).1879. A Hartford lady at a Chinese dinner. June 4. p. 2. Summary: A lady, formerly living in Hartford but now the wife of an American ofcial in China, writes to her friends at home and describes a ceremonious dinner she attended recently. The feast was given by the deputy (whom she describes as a lovely old man), and was attended by only seven persons, two American ladies, and two Chinese men besides the host. She describes each briey each course of the twentycourse meal, which was preceded by eight dishes of appetizers. ThirteenthStewed pigeons and bean curd. TwentiethRice with chicken soup, salted cabbage, salt bean curd [probably fermented], chestnuts grown in water and I dont know what. After that, tea and it was over. This was followed by a two days headache. 18. Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation.1879. IV. Bibliographie. II. Journaux et revues. 1879. 3e fascicule.Le Soja hispida [IV. Bibliography. II. Journals and Revues. 1879. 3rd volume of Le Soja hispida]. 26:666-71. Nov. [Fre] Summary: This section contains a summary of the main articles from other periodicals that are connected with the work of the Society for Acclimatization. In the Bulletin de la Socit des Sciences de la Basse-Alsace (1879, Vol. 3) is an article titled Le Soja hispida. In the meeting of 3 Sept. 1897, Mr. Fuehrer read the report of a scientic treatise published recently by M. Hecke on the agronomic trials conducted in Austria, Bavaria, and Silesia [Part of Austria-Hungary in 1879; part of Poland after 1945] of a legume which would have been introduced following the Vienna World Exposition of Vienna, the Soja hispida, and from the seeds of which is made, in Japan, a type of sauce that is served as a condiment. According to this work, soy sauce (la sauce du Soja) was well known in Europe, and it would have even been stylish, at the beginning of this century, in London and Paris, but no-one possessed the plant. It was only after the Vienna Exposition that the attention of some agriculturists, and especially that of Professor Haberlandt, were called to this legume. Some cultural trials were conducted; it was quickly recognized that the varieties originating in Japan and northern China could be best adapted to the climate of central Europe, and the yellow variety was recognized as
New ProductDocumentation: Wells Fargo & Co. 1878. Directory of Chinese Business Houses. p. 43. The rst line is in English: Wo Sing & Co., Bean Cakes, 708 Dupont st. & Co. The 2nd line, written in Chinese characters, states: Wo Sing Company Fermented Tofu [and] Tofu Shop 708 Dupont st. Wells Fargo & Co. 1882. Directory of Chinese Business Houses. p. 69. Wo Sing, Bean Cake. Same address. Note: This is the earliest known commercial tofu product made in the western world. And, this is the earliest known soy product made in California. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) concerning a manufacturer of fermented tofu or tofu in the western world, the USA, or California. It is also the earliest document seen concerning the use of soybeans in California. Note: Wo Sing & Co. probably imported from China the soybeans it made into tofu. 16. Wells Fargo and Co. 1878. Directory of Chinese business houses: San Francisco, Sacramento, Marysville, Portland, Stockton, San Jose, Virginia City (Nevada). San Francisco, California: Britton & Ray. 86 p. [Eng; Chi] Summary: On page 43 is a listing written in English and Chinese, for Wo Sing & Co., Bean Cakes, 708 Dupont st., San Francisco. The Chinese characters indicate that the company made both fermented tofu and regular (nonfermented) tofu. The following table of contents gives a rough idea of the relative size of Chinese populations in various western American cities in 1878, assuming that the population
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU preferable to all others. The good yields produced by the soybean led to its good acceptance by farmers; even more, chemical tests showed that this legume contained one-third more protein than other protein-rich indigenous legumes. And it contained 6 to 10 times more oil. It could even be classied as an oilseed. The author believes that it should be introduced as a food. He took as an example the diet of a family of workers from Silesia, and he concluded that by replacing 3 kg of potatoes (of 9 consumed per day) and 1 kg of rye our (of 2.21 kg consumed) with only one kg of soybeans, this family would nd itself adequately nourished. Lets add again, to analyze this treatise, that in 1878 the plant was attacked by the fungus Septoria sojina, and by the caterpillars of the Belle-Dame (Vanessa carduci) and well as by the nocturnal moth (Acroncyta rumicis; Noctuelle de la Patience). Rabbits searched avidly for soybeans, chickens like the soaked seeds, and sheep are very fond of the straw, which has 203 times the nutritive value of the straw of peas. However, we must note, the introduction of this plant into Europe is not as recent as was thought in Vienna. In April 1854, Mr. de Montigny, the French consul at Shanghai, sent back the rst seeds to the Society for Acclimatization in France, and they arrived under the name oil peas of China (Pois olagineux de la Chine). This plant belonged to the legume family and to the genus Soja (Moench), a relative of Dolichos; its species was Soja hispida. Let us add that in the report that had preceded the creation of the Jardin du Bois at Bologne, read at the meeting of 7 May 1858, Mr. F. Jacquemart veried that the naturalization of this legume was complete. At this time, in effect, the plant was imported and its cultivation had succeeded. It had been reproduced from seeds produced in France. The role of acclimatization was nished. Now it was up to agriculture and industry to see what role it could play, to study whether it could be used in place of peas, lentils, and haricot beans, or whether it could render services other than those of these similar legumes. Each introduction takes a long time, and many obstacles must be overcome before a newly discovered plant can be claimed a success. We will watch with pleasure as the horticulturists occupy themselves anew with Soja hispida. We should add that if Mr. Quihou declares to have tried the cultivation of this legume many times without success (this Bulletin, 1873, p. 489), Mr. Blavet veries that it has been cultivated for three years at tampes (Seine-et-Oise) (Footnote: Seeds harvested at the Garden of Hyres and sent by the Society for Acclimatization to the Horticultural Society of tampes on 29 Nov. 1874). It is found there growing very rustically and giving extraordinary yields; the pods are very easily threshed with a ail, and the pea weevil (la Bruche des Poids) has not yet attacked it (Bulletin de la Socit dHorticulture dEureet-Loire, 25 Feb. 1879). Note: Eure-et-Loire is a department in north-central France. We would not need to return to the numerous studies
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published on the subject of soya in our Bulletin, especially from 1855 on; but since much more will be said about this new plant, perhaps we owe it to our colleagues to save them some research. The soybean (Le Soja) is an essential oilseed, but one which is also used for food. This bean is cultivated on a large scale in the elds of north China, where the climate is quite similar to that of our colder provinces, and much commerce is based on the products made from it: 1. The oil, which is preferable to colza- and to rapeseed oil (de Colza et de Navette). However it has a taste of dry legumes and leaves an aftertaste of beans or peas. Yet, with the addition of a small proportion of lard, it becomes quite similar to commercial second-grade olive oils. 2. The residues from making the oil, which form soybean cakes, used by the Chinese to fatten their livestock and fertilize their elds. 3. A food for the poor, quite similar to fresh white cheese, called fromage la pie in France, which is generally fried in oilincluding soybean oil. 4. A seasoning (assaisonnement) much appreciated by the rich. In this case, the pat of soybeans (la pte de Pois) [tofu] is subjected to fermentation, after the following have been added to it: pepper, salt, powdered bay/laurel leaves, and powdered thyme and other aromatic substances. During the fermentation, the producer sprinkles soybean oil on the pat. After several days of fermentation, the preparation is ready. It (fermented tofu) is a powerful digestive (aid to digestion) and an aperitif, which no one can resist because it is extremely tasty (Report by Baron de Montgaudry, Bulletin, 1855, p. 16). (Continued). Address: France. 19. Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation.1879. IV. Bibliographie. II. Journaux et revues. 1879. 3e fascicule.Le Soja hispida [IV. Bibliography. II. Journals and Revues. 1879. 3rd volume of Le Soja hispida] (Continued). 26:66671. Nov. [Fre] Summary: Continued (p. 670.3): One can read in the Imperial Encyclopedia of Agriculture (Cheou-chi-thongKhao) [from China], book/volume XXVII, folio 8, recto: Yellow soybeans can be used to make tofu (teou-fou, a sort of fermented soybean pat consumed regularly by the lower classes). Oil is removed from the beans using a press; they are also used to make jiang (tsiang, a sort of sauce used as a seasoning). The Treatise on Agriculture, by Fan-Ching states: At the summer solstice, one plants soybeans (dou); they dont require heavy labor. The owers of the soybean dont like to see the sun, otherwise the plants will become yellow and the roots will blacken (Mr. Stanislas Julien, member of the Institute, this Bulletin, 1855, p. 225). Soybean oil (Lhuile de Pois olagineux) is very similar to our edible oils; its odor and taste are agreeable. It is equally suited to combustion [burning in oil lamps].
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Exposed to freezing cold, it thickens; atmospheric oxygen makes it rapidly turn to resin. It belongs, therefore, to the class of drying oils and can, according to this report, replace linseed oil in some of its applications. Soybeans contain 18% oil and, because of the quantity and quality of the oil they contain, should provide a new food and a useful product to the industrial arts (Letter from M.E. Frmy, this Bulletin, 1855, p. 382). At 3 degrees below zero, the plants are not stressed; at 4 degrees the leaves freeze and the pods are slightly injured. If one considers that Haricot beans freeze at zero degrees, one can consider that soybeans are suited to be cultivated in our climate. There follows a detailed botanical description of the plant. Each plant bears 80 to 100 pods. The seed yield is excellent: each plant produces on average 183 seeds which, freshly shelled, make a tenth of liter and weigh 58 gm. A liter of soybeans contains 4,000 seeds and weighs 750 gm. Independently of these oleaginous qualities, soybeans make a delicious vegetable. Cooking them is very easy: just toss the fresh green seeds into boiling water. The seed coat detaches itself from each seed and oats to the surface, where they are removed. After 30 minutes, the cooking is done and furnishes a delicate dish, recalling the taste of green peas, but less sweet (Note from Mr. Lachaume, this Bulletin, 1858, p. 131). Look again at a communication from Mr. Paul Champion on the production of tofu (fromage de Pois), in China and Japan (this Bulletin, 1866, p. 562), etc. Let us say again that in the meeting of the Central Society of Horticulture, on Nov. 13 of this year, Mr. Duchartre read a note on the relative richness of peas, haricot beans, dry beans (Fves), lentils and soya (Soja) in nitrogenous materials (protein) and oil. He concluded that soya is the richest of all. Up until recently, dry beans (Fves) have been considered the richest, containing 30.80% protein and 70% oil; however soya contains 35% protein and 73% oil [sic, this percentage is much too high]. Address: France. 20. Paillieux, Auguste. 1880. Le soya, sa composition chimique, ses varits, sa culture et ses usages [The soybean, its chemical composition, varieties, culture, and uses]. Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation 27:414-71. Sept.; 27:538-96. Oct. 28 cm. [73 ref. Fre] Summary: One of the most important and original of the early publications on soya in Europe. Its in-text bibliography on soya was the largest of any published up to that time. Contents: Part I: Introduction and extracts on soybeans and soyfoods from 30 articles published previously in the Bulletin of the Society for Acclimatization from 1855 to 1880 (pages 414-430). 1. Soybean botany (p. 430-31). 2. The soybean in Japan (p. 431-42): Engelbert Kaempfer and his writings on miso and shoyu, information on soya from a document titled Japan at the World Exposition of 1878
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(Le Japon lExposition universelle de 1878, written in French by a Japanese, p. 29-33), recipe for making shoyu in France, tofu. 3. Soya in Cochinchine (French Indochina, p. 442-46): Black soybeans. 4. Soya in China (p. 446-51): Soy oil (Huile de Soya), tofu (le fromage de soya, teou-fou), soy sauce (tsiang-yeou; In London, England, it is sold under the name of India Soy at Cross & Blackwell, Soho-Square {p. 451}). 5. Soya in Austria-Hungary (p. 452-71): Starting with soybeans at the World Exposition of Vienna in 1873, includes a long, in-depth discussion (with many excerpts) of Prof. F. Haberlandts book Le Soja, published in Vienna in 1878. Tables in Part I show: (1) The chemical composition (in both their normal and dry states) of Chinese soybeans (pois de Chine), tofu (fromage de pois), and tofu curds (p. 427). (2) The yield of tofu. 120 gm of soybeans yields 184 gm of tofu (p. 427). (3) The weight and nitrogen content of the different components when tofu is made from soybeans (p. 428). (4) The Japanese names of 23 soybean (mame) varieties and a very brief description of their characteristics (p. 435-36; e.g., 1. Go-guwatsu no mame {5th month bean}. 2. Use mame [sic, Wase mame] {early}. 3. Nakate mame {half season}. 3a. Okute mame {late}. 4. Maru mame {round}. 5. Shiro teppo mame {white, like a pistol bullet} 6. Kuro mame {black}. 7. Kuro teppo mame {black, like a pistol bullet} 8. Koishi mame {small stone}. 9. Awo mame {Ao, green}. 10. Kage mame {shade, shadow}. 11-15. Aka mame {red; 1 of same species, two of different species}. 16-18. Tsya mame {Cha, tea colored}. 19. Kuro Kura Kake mame {black saddled}. 20. Aka Kura Kake mame {red saddled}. 21-23. Fu iri mame {striped, variegated, mottled; see Uzura mame = speckled like quail eggs}). This nomenclature was taken from a Japanese work titled: Explanation, with gures, of trees and plants recently determined / identied. (5) The romanized Chinese names of six types of soybeans and a French translation of each (e.g., Houangteou = Soya jaune) (p. 447). (6) Two analyses of soybean seeds, reprinted from Chemischer Ackersmann, 1872 (p. 458). (7) The chemical composition of three soybean varieties, including Yellow of Mongolia, Yellow of China, and Reddish-Brown of China; the composition of the original seeds and the rst generation seed is given for each type (p. 460-61). (8) The chemical composition of reddish-brown, yellow, and black varieties of soybeans (p. 469-70; data from M. Schroeder, Mach, and Caplan, published by F. Haberlandt). (9) Weight of 1,000 seeds for four generations grown out in Vienna. Original seeds: 81.5 to 105 gm. First generation: 110.5 to 154.5 gm. Second generation: 141.8 to 163.6 gm. Third generation: 116.0 to 151.0 gm. Contents (continued), Part II. 6. The Soybean, by Count Heinrich Attems (p. 538-60): Soybean culture and harvest, uses, and preparation of whole soybeans. Practical soybean culture trials on a grand scale, in the domain of the archduke Albert, an extract from a booklet by Edmond de
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Blaskovics titled The Soybean, Its Culture, Use, and Value as Forage (Vienna, 1880). Excerpts of six articles on soya from the Wiener Landwirthschaftliche Zeitung (Viennese Agricultural Journal) (Jan. 1879 to June 1880) (p. 548-54). Excerpts of ten articles on soya from the Oesterreichisches Landwirtschaftliches Wochenblatt (Austrian Agricultural Weekly) (March 1879 to Feb. 1880) (p. 554-59). 7. The soybean in France (p. 561-76): History (starting with Buffon, who became director of the Jardin des Plantes [Royal Garden, also called Jardin du Roi] in 1739), varieties grown, cultivation, utilization (mainly as forage plant for livestock and as an oilseed for oil and meal), accessory uses (miso, Japanese-style soy sauce {shoyu}, Chinese-style soy sauce {tsiang-yeou}, Japanese-style tofu {t-fu}, Chinesestyle tofu {tou-fou}, soy nuggets {tou-che}, and soy coffee {caf de Soja}, white fermented tofu {fromage blanc}, red fermented tofu {fromage rouge}, green vegetable soybeans {des graines fraches, cosses encores vertes, comme le Haricot ageolet}, whole dry soybeans {les graines sches comme le Haricot blanc ordinare}). 8. Conclusion and tables showing French analyses of soybeans (p. 576-78). Appendixes (p. 579-96): Summaries of letters to the Society describing 27 cultural experiments with soybeans conducted during late 1880 at various locations in France, Switzerland and Algeria. (Note: Though the publication date of this appendix is given as Oct. 1880, some of the letters are dated as late as 21 Nov. 1880). Reprint of a 2-page letter from Eugene Simon, former French consul in China, on soybean farming in China (p. 591-93). Reprint of a description by Eugene Simon, based on the description of a Chinese, of how tofu is made in China (p. 593-94). A French translation of a 1781 article by Isaac Titsingh on preparation of soy sauce in Indonesia (p. 594-95). And some information about soybeans from the ancient Chinese herbal Pn Tsao Kang Mu (p. 595). Reprints of 2 letters from Eugene Simon in China, on soya and tofu in China. French translation of a 1781 article by Isaac Titsingh on preparation of soy sauce. Note 1. We nd it surprising that this superb work contains no illustrations of a soybean plant, or of any part of the plant, or of any foods made from soybeans; the only illustration (p. 569) is a cross section of an empty pit into which one could put a mixed silage that contained 20% soybean plants. The distance a-b is 3 meters; f-g is 2 meters; e-f is 0.5 meters; a-e is 1 meter; i-h is 0.4 meters. Note 2. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Dec. 1999) that uses the term Huile de Soya to refer to soybean oil. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (March 2001) that has a bibliography of more than 50 references concerning soybeans. Note 4. This is the earliest European-language document seen (Sept. 2004) that mentions the Japanese soybean types Nakata-mame or Okute mame. Note 5. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Feb. 2010) that uses the term tsiang-yeou to refer to Chinese-style soy sauce. Address: France.
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21. Paillieux, Auguste. 1881. Le soya, sa composition chimique, sa culture et ses usages [The soybean, its chemical composition, culture, and uses]. Paris: Librairie Agricole de la Maison Rustique (26 Rue Jacob). 126 p. 28 cm. [42 ref. Fre] Summary: This is largely a reprint in book form of Paillieuxs excellent article by the same title published in the September and October 1880 issues of the Bulletin de la Societe dAcclimatation. The arrangement of text on the pages is somewhat different from (and clearer than) the earlier publication, and it contains small amounts of new informationas on p. 87-88. Note: This is the second book on the soybean published in the western world; the rst was by Haberlandt in 1878. This book contains only one unimportant illustration, the same one found in the preceding articles. Address: Membre de la Societe dAcclimatation, France. 22. Otago Witness (New Zealand).1882. Gleanings. Jan. 21. p. 7. Summary: M. Roman, a French engineer, states that the cultivation of the interesting plant, the soja or soya, has been largely developed in Hungary and in various parts of France. He thinks that it may in the future become as important an article of food as the potato. It grows in any soil, even the driest; and the plant is an excellent fodder for cattle. The seeds are very nutritious and have the form of small kidney beans. An agreeable soup [miso soup] may be made of them. The Chinese use them for various kinds of cheese [tofu, fermented tofu], to make a condiment with oil [soy sauce?], &c. In France the seeds are roasted like coffee, and M. Roman says the decoction of the soja bean is very similar to that of average coffee. Note 1. This article also appeared (again in the Gleanings section) in the May 6 (p. 7) issue of this newspaper. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (March 2010) concerning soybeans (the soja or soya) in connection with (but not yet in) New Zealand. 23. Product Name: [Fermented Tofu, and Tofu]. Foreign Name: Doufu-ru, Doufu. Manufacturers Name: Sam Sing. Manufacturers Address: 615 Dupont St. basement, San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1882.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU New ProductDocumentation: Wells Fargo & Co. 1882. Directory of Chinese Business Houses. p. 45. The rst line is in English: Sam Sing, Bean Cake. 615 Dupont st. basement. The 2nd line, written in Chinese characters, states: Sam Sing Fermented Tofu [and] Tofu Shop 615 Dupont st. Note 1. Wo Sing and Sam Sing, the two companies in San Francisco that made tofu or fermented tofu, were both located on the same street (Dupont St.). Note 2. This is the 2nd earliest known commercial soyfoods manufacturer in California (after Wo Sing, 1878). 24. Figuier, Louis; Gautier, Emile. 1882. Le soya [The soybean]. LAnne Scientique et Industrielle (Paris). p. 391-93. [Fre] Summary: For a long time, French agriculturists have worked to introduce this new leguminous plant which has distinct advantages over its close relatives, the haricot bean and the pea. The soya, or soja, is of Chinese or Japanese origin. For more than a century, the Museum of Natural History in Paris has possessed specimens. The Society for Acclimatization has spread / disseminated the seeds throughout France, but distrust and apathy have always led to the abandonment of the cultivation of this plant, which nevertheless grows very well in our climate. More intelligently, Austria tried importing this plant in 1873, and it had soon spread throughout Austrian territory. In Italy and Bavaria it was also grown here and there. A brief botanical description of the plant is given. In China and Japan the soybean is used in various forms as a food. An oil is extracted from it which, in part, serves domestic needs. But the two principal forms in which it is used are shoyu, a type of sauce or condiment, and to-fu [tofu] or tou-fou of the Chinese, which has the appearance and certain qualities of fromage la pie (the French term for a fresh dairy cheese resembling cream cheese). Many people believe that the Chinese eat a diet composed only of rice; however it is clear that they also have their cheese. An interesting brochure by Mr. Valllieux contains all of the information necessary to make tofu (fromage de soja). Doctor Picard has perfected this process and has arrived at a type of tofu (fromage de soja) that resembles Roquefort cheese [probably fermented tofu]. The dry seeds of the soybean (de soja) can be eaten as such, just like haricot beans; they furnish an excellent pure, and offer non of the inconveniences of haricots. They can also be roasted, in the guise of coffee. The aroma and the properties of the decoction of roasted soybeans would be completely analagous to those of coffee of medium quality, very superior, consequently, to all that are served under the name of coffee in many public establishments. The pods, stems and leaves are fed to cattle and horses.
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Eaten like green clover growing in the elds, these parts of the plant produce very rapid fattening; this is easily explained when one examines the chemical composition of the plant. Cultivation of soybeans is possible throughout the southern part of France; but in the north and in countries which are somewhat cold, they require a great deal of care and attention. In summary, because of its completely unique nutritive qualities, the soybean is a plant whose cultivation should be expanded as much as possible. 25. Wells Fargo and Co. 1882. Directory of Chinese business houses: San Francisco, Oakland, Sacramento, San Jose, Stockton, Marysville, Los Angeles, Portland, Virginia City (Nevada), Victoria (B.C.), Denver (Col.). San Francisco, California: Britton & Ray. 146 p. [Eng; Chi] Summary: On page 45 is a listing written in English and Chinese, for Sam Sing, Bean Cake, 615 Dupont st. basement, San Francisco. On page 69 is a listing for Wo Sing, Bean Cake, 708 Dupont st., San Francisco. The Chinese characters indicate that both companies made both fermented tofu and regular (non-fermented) tofu. The following table of contents gives a rough idea of the relative size of Chinese populations in various western American cities in 1882, assuming that the population is approximately proportional to the number of pages of business listings. San Francisco, p. 1-76. Oakland, p. 77-84. Sacramento, p. 85-96. San Jose, p. 99-106. Stockton, p. 10713. Marysville, p. 114-18. Los Angeles, 119-23. Portland (Oregon), p. 124-31. Virginia City (Nevada), p. 132. Victoria (B.C., Canada), p. 133-38. Denver (Colorado), p. 139-46. Address: San Francisco. 26. Brisbane Courier (Queensland, Australia).1883. Imports (A special charge is made on consignees announcements inserted in this column). June 9. p. 4. Summary: Venice, s. [steamer], from Hongkong: 46 cases merchandise,... 47 boxes soy [sauce],... 1 bag seaweed,... 18 packages preserved ginger, 5 boxes bean curd, 15 boxes sauce, 8 baskets ginger,... 10 boxes bean cake,... 5 boxes bean stick [dried yuba]. Note 1. Bean cake, which is apparently a food, is probably fermented tofu, but could possibly be dried frozen tofu. If it is fermented tofu, this is the earliest Englishlanguage document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls bean cake. Note 2. These goods are clearly for Chinese customers in Australia. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2010) that clearly mentions yuba being imported or exported. 27. Brisbane Courier (Queensland, Australia).1885. Imports (A special charge is made on consignees announcements
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU inserted in this column). June 23. p. 4. Summary: De Bay, s. [steamer], from Hongkong:... 30 cases 20 boxes, 10 packages and 38 bundles tea, 10 cases eggs, 4 boxes opium, 50 cases oil, 2,693 bags and 2 boxes rice, 5 boxes wine, 1 box beans,... 2 boxes beansticks [probably dry yuba],... 29 cases soy [sauce],... boxes bean cake [fermented tofu],... 4 boxes bean sauce,... 4 boxes sauce beans, 4 packages ginger,... 28. China Inland Mission. 1887. A primer in the Mandarin dialect: containing lessons and vocabularies, and Chinese construction and idioms;... Shanghai, China: China Inland Mission; and American Presbyterian Mission Press. xxii + 250 p. Map. 23 cm. Summary: Page 180: (3 CC = Chinese characters given), chao-teo-fu, fried bean-curd. Page 181: 3 CC, tsing-iu-ping, oil cake [press-cake of oilseeds]. Page 197: 3 CC, teo-fu-ru, bean-curd [fermented tofu]; 4 CC, teo-fu-kan-ts, dried bean-curd cakes [pressed tofu]. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term teo-fu-ru to refer to fermented tofu. Page 220: 3 CC, teo-fu tien, bean-curd shop. Page 229: Oil of beans, 2 CC (bean + oil). Address: China. 29. Petit, Lon. 1888. Lhuile de soya. Son emploi en mdecine comme purgatif petite dose [Soy oil. Its use in medicine in small doses as a purgative]. Bulletin de la Societe de Medecine Pratique de Paris. p. 449-52. Meeting of April 26. Presided over by M. Laburthe. [Fre] Summary: Kaempfer rst introduced soybean seeds into Europe from Japan, where they are used to make miso and shoyu (a black and limpid liquid). These two are indispensable condiments in the Japanese diet. They also make a vegetable cheese, tofu, which is usually eaten fresh, and of which the people are very fond. In Cochin China, soya occupies a major place in the culinary art. The Chinese do not consume milk; instead, they crush the soybean and obtain from it a liquid, rich in casein and oils, which they use like we use the milk from cows goats, or sheep. From it, they also make white cheeses, red cheeses [fermented tofu], and a sauce, Tsiang-You (jiangyou or soy sauce), which are greatly appreciated. For my part, I have had the occasion to taste this condiment several times and I admit that I do not share, in its regard, the enthusiasm of the Chinese. Much more, soya enters in the preparation of a ferment used for making spirits and wines. Nothing could be easier than obtaining soybeans; in France, they germinate as easily as haricots. They contain 30-35% protein and make excellent forage. The soybean has been tested as a forage plant, either alone or mixed with hay, oats, barley, sugar beets, etc. Mr.
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Paillieux, a distinguished agriculturalist, even conducted various trials in using the soybean for human food. He cooked the seeds, like one cooks haricot beans, after they had been soaked in distilled water. He also roasted soybean seeds to make a sort of coffee. He successfully reproduced the various Japanese and Chinese food preparations. He even tried to make a our by grinding the beans, but this our degenerated [rancidied] because of the large quantity of oil and fat that it contains. It is possible that if this oil were extracted, the soybean oilcake (le tourteau de Soya) could be ground / reduced into our which would contain more than 40% nitrogenous materials [protein] and would have no bad [after]taste. But unfortunately, this our would have a rather high net cost, because of the manipulations that its production would necessitate, unless a use for soybean oil, which is the object of an enormous trafc in China, is found. This very limpid oil, which has a beautiful yellow color like olive oil, leaves a little acrid taste in the mouth which is not disagreeable. It possesses very obvious drastic qualities. I had a liter at my disposition, and I observed that with a minimum dose of 10 gm, you obtain a very energetic purging [like diarrhea], without any type of abdominal pain / colic (colique). I hope, before long, to receive a certain quantity of soybean oil that I shall place at the disposition of those of our colleagues who would like to test it as a purgative. Note: The writer is the only person ever to ascribe a purging or purgative property to soy oil. There follows a question and answer session. Mr. Terrier asks: Can Mr. Lecerf provide us with some information about the use of this oil in China and Japan? Mr. Petit responds: I believe that the Chinese and Japanese use this oil only for therapeutic purposes. Soy sauce (La liqueur de Soya) is widely employed in England as a condiment. Mr. Lecerf adds: I know nothing about how the Chinese and Japanese use soy oil as a medical substance; but, as I said, this oil is of the highest rank among the oils consumed throughout China. I would say to Mr. Petit that the India Soy, which the English consume, is a product which contains only a small proportion of soybeans; it is made with considerable quantities of barley and rice [sic], and it comes from China. However Shoyu, which I present to you, is originally from Edo [Tokyo, Japan]. Like that from Batavia [Jakarta] (KetJap [ketjap, kecap]), it is made with from equal parts wheat and soybeans (Soya). Mr. Gillet de Grandmont asks: Very precise and extensive information on the cultivation of soybeans can be found in the Annals [Bulletin] of the Society for Acclimatization. This bean, which I have tried to use for food, does not soften easily upon cooking; it always retains a very disagreeable, acrid taste. I could hardly stand it, except consumed in the form of a salad after cooking. Mr. Lecerf replies: In the fresh state [as green vegetable soybeans], soybeans are not hard and their taste is even
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU agreeable. In the dry state, it is easy to render them less tough, by adding a small quantity of sodium bicarbonate [baking soda] to their cooking water, and by taking care to soak them in water 24 hours in advance. Address: M.D., 2 Rue Casmir-Delavigne, Paris. 30. Carrire, E.-A.; Andr, Ed. 1888. Chronique horticole [Horticultural chronicle]. Revue Horticole: Journal dHorticulture Pratique (Paris) 60:217-21. May 16. See p. 220. [Fre] Summary: The section titled Soy cheese (Le Fromage de Soja) states (p. 220): The starch [sic, protein] of the soybean is sometimes used for the preparation of a cheese. Those who try to prevent the consumption of this product from expanding say that it has a rather strong taste of raw haricot beans. The Society for Acclimatization, according to a proposal from Mr. Paillieux, is going to establish a prize of 500 francs to be awarded to the person who nds a practical process for removing this disagreeable taste from soy cheese, fresh or fermented / ripened. Address: France. 31. Alabaster, Chal. 1888. China, Canton. Report on the trade and commerce of Canton for the year 1887. Diplomatic and Consular Reports, Annual Series (Foreign Ofce, Great Britain). No. 415. p. 1-19. Summary: A table (p. 13) titled Trade in native produce, imports has an entries for: Beancurd, preserved [probably fermented tofu]. The quantity in 1886 was 1,707.77 piculs, increasing to 3,027.10 piculs in 1888. Note: If this is fermented tofu, this is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Beancurd, preserved (or Preserved beancurd) to refer to fermented tofu. Beans, black [soy]. The quantity in 1886 was 61,541.72 piculs, increasing to 110,589.00 piculs in 1888. Beans, yellow [soy]. The quantity in 1886 was 500,051.86 piculs, increasing to 670,262.00 piculs in 1888. Address: Acting-Consul, Canton. 32. Leuillieux, Abel. 1888. Le Soya hispida, sa valeur alimentaire, ses indications [Soya hispida, the soybean: Its nutritional value and indications]. Paris: Imprimerie de A. Davy. 53 p. 8vo. [21 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: 1. Historical and botanical description. Soya (Le Soya) in Japan: Miso (according to Kaempfer), shoyu (Le Sooju, Shoyn), soybean varieties (23, soy oil, tofu), Japan at the exposition of 1878, practical recipe in France by the correspondent of the Horticultural Society of Paris (Socite dHorticlture de Paris), soy cheese or tofu (fromage de daizu (To-ju)), soya in China, soy oil, fermented tofu (Le fromage de Soya, Teou-Fou) (white fermented tofu, red fermented tofu), soya in Cochinchina
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(black soybean), soya in France (history), preparation of soya for the table. Letter from Maurice Dupuy (chemist at Vienna, June 1888, to M. Lecerf; nutritional value of Soya hispida, nutritional composition of 2 samples). Conclusions. Bibliography. Address: M.D. Facult de Mdecine, Paris; Former student at the Industrial and Agronomic Institute of Nord [Ancien lve de linstitut industriel et agronomique du Nord]. 33. Giles, Herbert Allen. 1892. A Chinese-English dictionary. London: Bernard Quaritch; Shanghai, Hongkong, Yokohama & Singapore: Kelly and Walsh, Ltd. xlvi + 1416 p. 31 cm. [4 ref. Eng; chi] Summary: This massive volume, weighing almost 12 lb, contains more than 1,450 pages and 13,848 Chinese characters. Contents: Dedication (to the Honourable C.P. Chater). By the same author (17 books). Preface: Number of characters, the characters numbering, duplicate characters, phonetic arrangement, orthography, the tones, the dialects (Beneath the number attached to each character will be found its rhyme (R) as given in the Pei-wn-yn-fu. The romanization of each character is given in Cantonese, Hakka, Foochow, Wnchow, Ningpo, Peking, Mid-China, Yangchow, and Ssuchuan {Szechwan} dialects, as well as in Korean, Japanese, and Annamese, each being distinguished by its initial letter), the denitions, the entries, etymology, grammar, difculty of Chinese, personal. Philological essay (incl. tones, ranging from 4 to 9, in ten dialects). Table of sounds. Examples of soy-related characters: Chiang (p. 122, No. 1220). A soy made by mixing salt with bean-our. Sauce. Pickled food. Fourteen compounds using this character are given, including: Bean sauce, soy. Pickled bean curd [fermented tofu]. Bean sauce. Soy [sauce] is of two kinds, the clear and the thick. Dry relishes. Soy coloura dark reddish drab. He wont use money for vinegar to buy soy. Chih (p. 205, No. 1996). Salted fruits, etc., dried and used as relishes. Four compounds incl.: Salted beans. Soy, sauce. Chou (p. 259, No. 2521). Sweet-smelling; strongsmelling. Stinking. Chou fu. stinking bean-curd; noxious. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions Chou fu which it translates as stinking bean-curd. This is also the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term stinking bean-curd. Fu (p. 458, No. 3686). Rotten; putrid; worthless. Eleven (p. 458, No. 3686). Rotten; putrid; worthless. Eleven compounds and sayings include: Bean curd, see No. 11,417. Bean curd ofcialsa term of contempt applied to certain of the poorer classes of ofcial servants who are compelled to feed largely on this cheap food. Also explained as abby or unenergetic ofcials. A Mongol name for cheese. A kind of milk made from beans (rufu = milk + fu) [Note:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Probably fermented tofu, not soymilk]. Huang (p. 522, No. 5124). Yellow. Compounds: Yellow beans [soja]. Mao (p. 778, No. 7,679). Hair, down, feathers. But the word Hairy beans = edamame does not appear here. Shih (p. 988, No. 9999). See No. 1996. Ta (p. 1,036-37, No. 10,470). Great. But the word Great bean = soybean does not appear here. Tou (p. 1,127, No. 11,417). Beans; pulse. See also No. 11,412. Thirty compounds, incl.: Bean-sprouts. Bean-curd. A cheap restaurant (a bean-curd restaurant). Bean-cake. Bean oil. Big bean, black bean, or yellow bean = the soja bean (Glycine hispida, Max.), used for making bean-curd, soy, oil, etc. Ground-nuts. Yu (p. 1,316-17, No. 13,409). Oil, fat, grease. 45 compounds incl. Sesamum-seed oil. Linseed. Wood oil. An oil factory. Oil dregs. But bean-oil = soybean oil does not appear here. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2007) that contains the term sesamum-seed oil. Note 3. Herbert Giles lived 1845-1935. Note 4. Unfortunately, the pronunciation of the compounds is not given (as in Mandarin). Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (April 2001) that uses the term Bean sauce to refer to soy sauce. Note 6. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2001) that uses the term bean-our to refer to soy bean our. Note 7. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term pickled bean curd to refer to fermented tofu. Note 8. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2002) that uses the term Wood oil to refer to what would later be called China wood oil or tung oil, a pale yellow drying oil obtained from the seeds of tung trees (any of several trees of the genus Aleurites), and used mainly in quick-drying varnishes and paints, and for waterproong. Address: H.B.M. [Her Britannic Majestys] Consul at Ningpo [Zhejiang province, China]. 34. Paillieux, Auguste; Bois, D. 1892. Le potager dun curieux: Histoire, culture et usages de 250 plantes comestibles, peu connues ou inconnues. Dieuxime dition [The inquisitive persons kitchen garden: History, culture, and uses of 200 edible, little-known or unknown plants. 2nd ed.]. Paris: Librairie Agricole de la Maison Rustique. xii + 589 p. See p. 502-49. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [2 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents of section on soy: Introduction: Work of the Society for Acclimatization with soy, structure of this book, excerpts on soy from past issues of the Bulletin the Society for Acclimatization. Botany of the soybean. 1. Soy in Japan: Kaempfers writings, including miso and shoyu, Japan at the Worlds Fair of 1878, miso, shoyu, tofu. 2. Soy
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in Cochin China: Black soybeans, various foods. 3. Soy in China: Soy oil, tofu and fermented tofu, soy sauce, other uses. 4. Soy in Austria-Hungary. 5. Soy in France: Historical, varieties, cultivation, utilization. The authors full name is Nicolas-Auguste Paillieux (lived 1812-1898; he died on 8 Feb. 1898 at age 85). An illustration (non-original line drawing; p. 503) shows a mature soybean plant bearing many pods, plus a close-up of three pods to the lower right of the plant (from an original in J.R.F. 1882). Note: Desire Bois lived 1856-1946. Also discusses (listed alphabetically): arachide (peanuts, p. 26-28), haricot mungo (azuki, p. 201-09), kudzu or ko (p. 271-84), quinoa (p. 460-66), souchet comestible (chufa, p. 498-502, with illustration). Address: 1. Member of the Societe Nationale dAcclimatation 2. Asst. de la Chaire de Culture, Museum dHistoire naturelle de Paris. 35. Inouye, M. 1895. The preparation and chemical composition of tofu. Bulletin of the College of Agriculture, Tokyo Imperial University 2(4):209-15. Aug. [6 ref. Eng] Summary: One of the best early articles on tofu in Japan. Inouye tried to make a product resembling Swiss cheese with tofu, with moderate success. The efforts to prepare an easily digestible food from soya beans led to the preparation of miso and natto, two kinds of vegetable cheese, which were investigated some time ago in the laboratory of this college. (Footnote: On the preparation of miso, by O. Kellner, this Bulletin, Vol. 1, No. 6. On natto, by Yabe; Bulletin Vol. 2, No. 2). But the most interesting preparation is tofu, which consists principally of the protein-matter of the soya bean and which, according to the investigation of Prof. Osawa in Tky, is as easily digestible as beef. This preparation is freshly made every day and sold in the form of tablets [cakes] about 10 c.m. broad, 2 c.m. thick, and 25 c.m. long [4 by 10 by 0.8 inches thick], is of snow-white appearance and of the consistency and taste of freshly precipitated casein of milk, but as there is no trace of bacterial action connected with its preparation, the name vegetable cheese is certainly not justied. A table (p. 211) shows the composition of tofu a determined by Kellner. Tofu is also sold in another form called kori-dofu [dried-frozen tofu]. It is prepared by exposing the fresh tofu tablets to the action of frost, under which they shrink considerably, lose water, and become more compact. While fresh tofu contains, on an average, 89.02% of water, kori-tofu contains only 15.32% in the air dry condition. The analysis of kori-dofu gave me the following results: Water 15.32%. Albuminoids 41.42%. Fat and lecithin 23.65%. Nonnitrogenous extract 15.05%. Cellulose 1.48%. Ash 3.08%. The author then describes the tofu manufacturing process, noting that it is manufactured only on a small scale, by people who sell it in their own shops. The beans are rst soaked for about twelve hours in water and then
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU crushed between two mill-stones until a uniform pulpy mass is obtained. This is then boiled with about three times its quantity of water for about one hour, whereupon it is ltered through cloth. This liquid is white and opaque, exactly like cows milk; while the smell and taste remind one of fresh malt. I also analyzed the fresh milky liquid with the following results for Soya bean milk and cows milk, respectively (p. 212): Water 92.53% / 86.06%. Albuminoids 3.02% / 4.00%. Fat 2.13% / 3.05% Fibre 0.03% /. Ash 0.41% / 0.70%. Non-nitrogenous extract, including carbohydrates 1.88% /. Milk sugar/ 5.00%. The fat contained in this liquid as well as in the tofutablets was found to consist partly of lecithin. Tofu dried at 100 yielded 26.65% fat and 4.83 gr. of this fat yielded, after igniting with carbonate of soda and nitrate of potash in the usual way, 0.280 grm. of magnesium pyrophosphate, which, when multiplied by the lecithin-factor, 7.2703, corresponds to 2.035 grm. lecithin, amounting to 11.2% of dried tofu, leaving for the genuine fat 15.4% (Footnote: A portion of this lecithin was probably present in the soya bean as lecithalbumin; comp. Leo Liebermann, J.B. f. Thierchemie, 1893, p. 32, and E. Schulze, Chemiker Zeitung, 1894, No. 43); more of the latter, therefore, is left in the refuse than of the former. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2001) that contains the word lecithin or lecithalbumin in connection with soyin this case tofu. In the manufacture of tofu-tablets from the freshly prepared milky liquid, about 2% of concentrated brine [natural nigari] as it is obtained as mother liquor from the preparation of sea salt, is added with constant stirring, whereupon a occulent precipitate is soon formed which is separated by means of a cloth lter, slowly pressed, and then cut into tabular shape. I have tried to arrive at a satisfactory explanation of the nature of tofu, and have found that the salt-brine does not act by its chloride of sodium, but by the calcium and magnesium salts which are in it; for we can at once obtain precipitate from the milky liquid if we add a little calcium nitrate or magnesium sulphate, while we can not obtain any separation or precipitation by adding even considerable quantities of sodium chloride or sodium sulphate. I have analysed a sample of the salt brine used for tofu making and found it to contain, besides chloride of sodium, 27.9% of chloride of magnesium and 7.0% of chloride of calcium. Footnote 4 (p. 213): In order to see whether a product similar to Swiss Cheese could be obtained from the crude soya casein or tofu, I infected 50 grm. of fresh tofu with a small dose of pulverised Swiss cheese, and added ten per cent of common salt to the mixture, pressed it in cloth, and allowed it to stand in a moist beeker glass for several months. The product resembled, only to a limited extent, the cheese from milk, but further experiments with the addition
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of small quantities of milk sugar are intended. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that contains the term soya bean milk. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that contains the word milky in connection with soymilk, or that uses the term milky liquid to refer to soymilk. It is the second earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that mentions soymilk, and the earliest that mentions it in connection with Japan. However there is no suggestion that Japanese consume soymilk as a beverage. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the term vegetable cheese to refer to miso. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word kori-dofu to refer to dried-frozen tofu. Address: Ngaku-shi [Prof. of Agriculture], Japan. 36. New Zealand Tablet (National).1897. Science notes: The avours of butter and cheese. Oct. 22. p. 27. Summary: We learn some curious facts about butter and cheese from that section of Professor Marshalls learned Presidential Address on Botany, at the meeting of the British Association, which was devoted to the bacteriology of the dairy. To different forms of bacteria, he tells us, are due the distinctive avours of varieties of butter and cheese... The lecturer suggested that interesting results might be obtained from the investigation of the vegetable cheese [tofu] made in China and Japan from the curd of the soy bean, which is allowed to become mouldy in the process [fermented tofu]. 37. Essais agricoles et industriels faits en Cochinchine depuis la fondation de cette Colonie jusquen 1897 [Agricultural and industrial trials conducted in Cochin China since the foundation of this colony in 1897]. 1898. Saigon, Vietnam: Imprimerie Commerciale Rey. See Vol. 2, p. 190-92. [Fre] Summary: See the chapter titled Fromage de pte de haricots [Fermented tofu], by Tran, Nguyen Hanh. Address: Cochinchina. 38. Tran, Nguyen Hanh. 1898. Fromage de pte de haricots [Fermented tofu]. In: Essais Agricoles et Industriels Faits en Cochinchine Depuis la Fondation de Cette Colonie Jusquen 1897. 2 vols. Saigon, Vietnam: Imprimerie Commerciale Rey. See Vol. 2, p. 190-92. [Fre] Summary: At top of title page of this volume 2: Publications de la Socit des tudes Indo-Chinois de SaigonNo. 1. In middle of title page of volume 2: Extraits des Bulletins du Comit Agricole et Industriel (1865-1883) et de la Socit des tudes Indo-Chinois (1883-1896). With the haricot bean [soybean] (dau-nanh in Annamite) the indigenous people prepare a series of foods which are
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU consumed abundantly in this country [Vietnam] and in China. It could be that with carefully-made preparations, Europeans could make use of it [the bean]. The soybean contains an abundance of a milk-like substance with which the followings cheese can be prepared. 1. Tofu (Dau hu)A type of cheese that is eaten the day it is made. It has a consistency somewhat similar to that of Swiss cheese. It is widely used as an ingredient in other dishes, seasoned with either sugar or salt, or in cooked foods, because heat does not damage it. 2. Pressed tofu (Dau-hu-cu.ng; [cu.ng means hard]) Used in the same way as No. 1, it is always cut into pieces and cooked with other ingredients. Having a rmer consistency than No. 1, it can be kept for a day or so. 3. Yuba (Dau-hu-ky; [literally bean curd skin])This cheese comes in dry sheets. It is cooked in other culinary preparations. It serves as a mild seasoning and as a wrapper like some Italian pastas. Note 1. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Aug. 2010) that uses the word Dau-hu-ky (regardless of hyphenation or capitalization) to refer to yuba. 4. Fermented tofu (Dau-hu-nhan; [nhan means bitter])This fermented and salted cheese will keep for a month or even a year. It is eaten with bread, with cooked rice, or even with meats. 5. ChaoAnother fermented and salted tofu, but sold in an alcoholic brine, and diluted to make a soft paste. Used in much the same way as butter. It sometimes accompanies starchy foods (grains, bread, etc.) and sometimes it is added to meats or sh. 6. Dau-hu-oaA creamy cheese which is eaten with sugar or water sweetened with sugar. Note 2. These are soymilk curds (doufu-hua in pinyin). Also called Tao pho (in Hanoi). Dao-hu hoa (in Hue). Tau-hu (Saigon). The next section describes how to make each of the six different types of tofu and yuba. 1. TofuAs with other cheese, each of these must be prepared with care. Start by crushing soybeans into pieces3 or 4 pieces per bean at most, then soak in water for 18-20 hours. Stir from time to time so that the hulls rise to the surface, then decant then off. Grind the rest nely to obtain a uid puree. Bring to a boil. After 15 minutes, add sea salt to coagulate the liquid. The sea salt can be replaced by gypsum, but the result will not be the same. 2. Pressed tofuPrepare like No. 1 but cook longer and press in a form with a very heavy weight for several hours until it is about 1 cm thick and of rm consistency so that it will last for several days. 3. YubaLift off the thin lms that form on the surface of hot soymilk with a fork. Let them dry in the sun. The lms, which are either white or yellow, will last for a year, if care is taken to dry each lm slowly and for a long time; otherwise they will turn red. 4. Salted, fermented tofu (Da-hu nhan)Cut tofu in
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pieces a little larger than ones thumb and spread them on a plate covered by a banana leaf. According to the season, leave them here for 2-3 days or more, until each piece is entirely covered with mold. Wipe off the mold and layer them in a deep crock. Between each later add powdered salt. Hermetically seal the mouth of the crock / vase and expose it either to the rays of the sun or to a source of heat; continue this for 10-15 days, until the cheese is ready. It is an excellent condiment. 5.Chao. The complex fermentation is described in detail. 6. Soymilk curds before they are pressed. Very light and delicate, with subtle sweetness. 39. Paillieux, Auguste; Bois, D. 1899. Le potager dun curieux: Histoire, culture et usages de 250 plantes comestibles, peu connues ou inconnues. Troisime dition entirement refaite [The inquisitive persons kitchen garden: History, culture, and uses of 250 edible, little-known or unknown plants. 3rd ed. completely redone]. Paris: Librairie Agricole de la Maison Rustique. xvi + 678 p. See p. 575-625. Illust. Index. 25 cm. [2 ref. Fre] Summary: The information about soy in this 1899 third edition is very similar to that in the 1892 second edition, but the page numbers are different. Contents of section on soy: Introduction: Work of the Society for Acclimatization with soy, structure of this book, excerpts on soy from past issues of the Bulletin the Society for Acclimatization. Botany of the soybean. 1. Soy in Japan: Kaempfers writings, including miso and shoyu, Japan at the Worlds Fair of 1878, miso, shoyu, tofu. 2. Soy in Cochin China: Black soybeans, various foods. 3. Soy in China: Soy oil, tofu and fermented tofu, soy sauce, other uses. 4. Soy in Austria-Hungary. 5. Soy in France: Historical, varieties, cultivation, utilization. The authors full name is Nicolas-Auguste Paillieux (lived 1812-1898; he died on 8 Feb. 1898 at age 85). An illustration (non-original line drawing; p. 576) shows a mature soybean plant bearing many pods, plus a close-up of three pods to the lower right of the plant (from an original in J.R.F. 1882). Note: Desire Bois lived 1856-1946. Other related or interesting subjects (listed alphabetically): Adzuki (p. 224). Amande de terre: See Chufa. Amarantus / Amarante (p. 14-16). Arachide / Arachis hypoga (p. 32-35). Chufa / Cyperus esculentus / souchet comestible (p. 571-75). Daikon (p. 173). Gado-gado [Salad with peanut dressing] (p. 224). Gobo (p. 45). Jinenjo (p. 246). Katakuri (p. 336). Koniaku [konnyaku] (p. 289). ko / kudzu (p. 300-315). Mioga (p. 396). Moyashi (p. 226). Phaseolus radiatus / azuki (p. 222-24). Pistache de terre: See arachide. Quinoa (p. 523-25). Udo (p. 448). Voandzou / Voandzeia subterranea (p. 650-53). Wasabi (p. 420). Yama gobo (p. 496). Zingiber mioga (p. 396). Address: 1. Honorary member of the Council of the Societe Nationale dAcclimatation 2. Asst. de la Chaire de Culture, Museum
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU dHistoire naturelle de Paris. 40. Product Name: [Light House brand Soy Sauce, Chiang, Fermented Tofu]. Foreign Name: Jiang-yu, Dou-jiang, Furu. Manufacturers Name: Yeo Hiap Seng. Manufacturers Address: Chang-chou, Fukien [Fujian] province, China. Date of Introduction: 1900. How Stored: Shelf stable. New ProductDocumentation: Letter from Alan Yeo. 1982. April, and YHS news release. 1990. Oct. Yeo Hiap Seng traces its origins to the year 1900 when the patriarch of the Yeo family, Mr. Yang (in the Amoy dialect, his name was pronounced Yeo Keng Lian) purchased a small company named Hiap Seng in the city of Chang-chou (pinyin: Zhang Zhou), Fukien (Fujian) province, China. Hiap Seng means unite to succeed. Yeo Keng Lian changed the companys name to reect his familys ownership. He worked as a manufacturer and retailer of fermented soybean seasonings: soy sauce (jiang-you), Chinese-style miso (dou-jiang), and fermented tofu (furu). All three products were sold from day one under the Light House brand. By working together, the family did succeed. Their soy sauce, fermented in the traditional Chinese way in wooden vats and earthenware jars, was of superior quality and the business prospered. The original plant was located near the center of Chang-chou. In about 1920 a second plant was established in the eastern part of the city, and in the late 1920s a third plant was set up in the southern part of the city. Each of the three fermented soy products were produced in all three plants; the second and third plants also produced some pickled vegetables. In 1935, during the Japanese invasion of China, when life was difcult and unsettled in Fukien province, Yeo Keng Lian sent his eldest son, Yeo Thian In, to Singapore to investigate possibilities there. The son founded the Yeo Hiap Seng Sauce Factory at 410 Outram Road, Singapore 3. He was joined shortly by the rest of the family. Note 1. This is the earliest known commercial soy product (with a brand name) made in China. Note 2. This is the earliest known commercial soy product made or sold by Yeo Hiap Seng. It is also the earliest record seen (Oct. 2001) concerning Yeo Hiap Seng. 41. New-York Tribune.1902. New publications. Some light sketches of Chinese life. Oct. 15. p. 10. Summary: A book review of: Glimpses of China and Chinese Homes, by Edward S. Morse. He gives a list of the foods he had for dinner, with his comments. The last is: Fermented bean-curd soup. Very poor. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that clearly mentions fermented tofu, which it calls Fermented bean-curd (one of two documents).
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42. Meyer, Frank Nicholas. 1902. Letters of Frank N. Meyer. 4 vols. Compiled by USDA Bureau of Plant Industry. 2444 [i.e. 2577] leaves. Unpublished typescript. Summary: Only two copies of these rare, magnicent unpublished documents exist. One is Rolls 28-30, Vols. 105-109, Project Studies, Division of Plant Exploration and Introduction, Record Group 54: Records of the Bureau of Plant Industry, The National Archives. The second is at the University of California at Davis. Most are carbon copies of typewritten letters. Includes some illustrations (pencil sketches) by Meyer. The rst letter in this collection, dated 7th Oct. 1902, is from Meyer in Santa Ana, California, to Mr. Adrian J. Pieters (a fellow Dutchman) at USDA in Washington, DC. Meyer arrived in California on 18 Sept. 1902 and started immediately to work for USDA at the plant introduction garden in Santa Ana; he stayed 7 months. In April 1904 Meyer is in Guadalajara, Mexico. In March 1905, Meyer receives an offer from David Fairchild and Pieters to work for USDA as an agricultural explorer in northern China. In August 1905, he is in Nagasaki, Japan. In Sept., he is in Shanghai, China. In Oct. 1905, he writes a long letter to Fairchild. Meyer made four very fruitful expeditions to Asia, eastern Europe, and the Middle East. His rst expedition was to China, Manchuria, and Siberia, 1905-08. His second was to Europe, Russia, Caucasus, Transcaucasia, Turkestan, and Siberia, 1909-12. His third was Russia, Siberia, Manchuria, China, and Japan, 1912-15. And his fourth and nal expedition was to Japan and China, 1916-18. On 23 Dec. 1917, war engulfed Frank Meyer at Ichang (I-chang or Yichang) on the Yangtze River. He was trapped there until 2 May 1918 when he managed to break through lines of soldiers. The last letter in this collection, dated 18 May 1918, is from Meyer to Fairchild written from Hankow, China. He died about 1-2 June 1918, having drowned in the Yangtze River below Anking, and above Wuhu, China. Meyer did not report any soybeans in Russia or Turkestan. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (July 1998) concerning Frank N. Meyer. Note 2. Ichang, which opened as a treaty port in 1876, was a city of 40,000 people by 1920. It is situated at the head of steam navigation on the Yangtze, at the throat of the main outlet from Szechuan, and at the point where the mountains of Szechuan and western Hupeh meet the central plain of Hupeh. Note 3. Soyfoods Center owns all pages that mention soy, plus: (1) The full U.C. Davis cataloging record for the archival collection, which is in Special Collections SB108 A7M49 1902 v1-4. (2) A letter from Melissa Tyler of U.C. Davis, dated 22 Sept. 2003, discussing the collection and its lack of front matter. (3) Appendix A: Bureau of Plant Industry, by Knowles Ryerson about a dispute he had with
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Secretary of Agriculture Henry Wallace involving Nicholas Roerich, Dr. H.G. MacMillan, and James F. Stephens over a plant exploration expedition to Manchuria and the Gobi Desert. In 1934 Ryerson was appointed Chief of the USDAs Bureau of Plant Industry; this dispute led to his removal that same year; he was replaced by Frederick D. Richey. Address: USDA Bureau of Plant Industry. 43. Morse, Edward S. 1902. Glimpses of China and Chinese homes. Boston, Massachusetts: Little, Brown & Co.; London: Kegan Paul. xv + 216 p. Oct. Illust. Index. 21 cm. Reprinted in 2001 by Kegan Paul. Summary: In Chapter 3, A Chinese dinner, the author notes (p. 65): Women are excluded from the table, as in Japan. He gives a list of the foods he was served for dinner, with his comments (p. 67). The last is: Fermented bean-curd soup. Very poor. Edward Sylvester Morse (an American, from Hartford, Connecticut) lived 1838-1925. The book is illustrated by sketches from his journal. Prof. Morse, who lived and taught for several years in Japan in the late 1870s and 1880s, and quickly grew to admire and love the Japanese, nds little to like or admire among the Chinese: In my short experience with the Chinese I do not recall the faintest indications of kindliness, politeness, or urbanity; whether high or low in station, their attitude was always the same. The reception a foreigner encounters in China is due to an intense dislike of us, coupled with an absolute contempt for all we do and for all we have accomplished (p. 206-07). Note: This is the 2nd earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that clearly mentions fermented tofu, which it calls Fermented bean-curd (one of two documents). Address: Former Prof. of Zoology, Imperial Univ., Tokyo. 44. Hosie, Alexander. 1904. Report by Consul-general Hosie on the province of Ssuchuan. Presented to both houses of parliament by command of His Majesty. Oct. 1904. London: Printed for H.M. Stationery ofce, by Harrison and Sons. 101 p. See p. 10-11. 34 cm. China No. 5. Summary: Sir Alexander Hosie (lived 1853-1925) traveled to Ssuchuan in June and July, 1884. In Part A, titled Agricultural and horticultural products, section II on Pulse (p. 10-11) states: 1. Soy Bean (Glycine hispida, Max.).The soy bean does not play the same part in Ssuchuan [Szechwan] as it does in Northern China, and especially Manchuria, where it is cultivated almost entirely for its oil and for the refuse cakes, which nd a ready market not only in China and adjacent countries, but are winning their way as fertilisers into remoter regions. The great oil-yielding plant of Ssuchuan is rape, and although oil is extracted from the soy bean, it is as an article of food, whether cooked whole or in the form of resultant products, that the latter is appreciated in Western China. Three well-
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marked varieties, each with two or more sub-species, are cultivated. A bushel of each weighs 40 pounds. (I.) Yellow Soy Bean (all are ovoid in shape; oil is extracted from the rst two): (a) Pai Huang Tou or White Yellow Bean. This is the lightest in color of the three subspecies of the yellow bean. A bushel of 40 lbs. costs T. [Taels] 0.8.8, or about 2s. 1d. There are about 150 beans per ounce. As a rule they are cooked whole and served as a vegetable condiment. (b) Ta Huang Tou or Large Yellow Bean. Has a light tinge of green. Eaten in the same way as the white-yellow bean. (c) Hsiao Huang Tou or Small Yellow Bean. This bean is much smaller and less expensive than the other two sub-species. For this reason it is in demand for the manufacture of beancurd in its various forms. It is also used as a vegetable. Oil is extracted from (a) and (b), and to a much less extent from (c); but this subject will be dealt with under the head of oil-yielding plants. (II.) Ching TouGreen Soy Bean. There are two subspecies of this bean, (a) where epidermis and inside are both green, and (b) where epidermis is green and inside yellow. The former is more commonly cultivated in Ssuchuan, and both are eaten and cooked as a vegetable. They are also salted and put away in jars for winter use. The bean is of the same size, shape, and weight as the white-yellow bean. The above yellow and green varieties of the soy bean occupy the ground from April to August, whereas the next variety (black) takes a month longer to mature. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (May 2009) that contains the word Green Soy Bean. It refers to mature dry soybeans with a green seed coatnot to green vegetable soybeans. (III.) Hei TouBlack Soy Bean. There are two subspecies of this bean: (a.) The rst is much larger, rounder, and heavier than the yellow and green variety. Only 88 are required to make up an ounce and the cost is T. 0.6.5 per bushel of 40 lbs. Like the green bean, it is used cooked in its fresh state as well as pickled. (b) The second is a small attish bean, about 450 going to the ounce. It is used in medicine and for food, principally the former. The cost is T. [Taels] 0.8.0 for 40 lbs. Both these sub-species are black outside and yellow inside, the epidermis of the former being readily detachable when crushed. In section VI, Products of cereals, pulse, and starchyielding plants, the rst entry (p. 19) is for 1. Beancurd and Jellies.In my book on Manchuria I have fully described the manufacture of beancurd from the yellow soy bean, and it is therefore unnecessary to go into details in this place; but in Chngtu it is preserved and exported in jars like wine. The beancurd is cut into small pieces, drained of its water, and packed in jars with layers of salt. There they remain for forty days, when they are taken out, drained of the brine, packed in other jars with ground up bread, red rice (dyed), star-aniseed, and red wine. The jars are then closely stoppered and the preserved beancurd is ready for export. It is also preserved
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU without the wine, which is replaced by the cold water which had previously drained from it, but with a seasoning of ground-up chillies, star-aniseed, &c. Related products are pea jelly, sweet potato jelly, rice jelly, and buckwheat jelly. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term preserved beancurd to refer to fermented tofu. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word wine (including rice wine or sake / sak) in connection with fermented tofu, and explains how that wine is used in the two-step fermentation process. We also read (p. 19): 3. Soy or bean sauce. Two kinds of soy are manufactured in Ssuchuanwhite or redor, as the latter is frequently called, black:(a) Red soy.In describing the manufacture of soy, I propose to give the exact quantities employed, so that a better idea of the amount of soy yielded by them may be obtained. Twenty-eight catties of yellow soy beans are steeped overnight in cold water. In the morning they are removed in their swollen state and steamed for ve hours. They are then taken from the steamer, spread out on mats, and allowed to cool, after which they are thoroughly mixed with 20 catties of wheat our and placed in a basket made of split bamboo. [Note: The ratio by volume of soy beans to wheat our is 1.4 to 1]. In six or seven days, as soon as yellow mould begins to appear, they are placed in an earthenware jar with 30 catties of cold water (well-water preferred) and 30 catties of granular salt and the whole is thoroughly mixed and the jar covered. In three or four days the jar, which has been placed in the sun, is uncovered and the contents stirred by hand, and the same takes place daily for three months. At the end of this time the liquid has all evaporated. During the following months the cover is removed during the day and replaced at night. The contents are now a black pickle, and may be eaten as such; but to obtain the soy they are divided up into equal parts and placed in two earthenware jars, to each of which is added 40 catties of boiling well-water. The contents of each jar are now thoroughly mixed and stirred up and a ne bamboo sieve in the shape of a basket is placed in the jar. The liquid escapes into the basket while the dregs are kept back by the sieve. In two or three days the liquid has all drained into the basket, when it is baled out and boiled with two catties of white sugar or glucose manufactured from glutinous rice, already described, with the addition of two or three ounces of mixed whole chillies and star-aniseed. Each jar will yield 35 catties of red soy, valued at 96 cash a catty, so that the 28 catties of yellow beans, with the other ingredients, yield 70 catties of soy. A whole year is required from the steeping of the beans to the production of this soy. (b) White soy.In the case of white soy the beans are rst roasted in sand which has been previously heated in an iron pan with a mixture of rape oil. This roasting is complete when the beans open or split, and the sand is removed by
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sieve. They are then placed in an earthenware jar and steeped in cold water for twelve hours. They are afterwards steamed as in the manufacture of red soy, and mixed with our and salt; but, instead of 30, some 60 catties of water are added to prevent the blackening of the beans and the discoloration of the soy. The daily uncovering, stirring, and recovering take place as in red soy, but at the end of 120 days the solid matter is removed and the liquid alone is exposed in the jar to the sun. This soy is ready for use at the end of the 120 days, but improves by keeping and exposure to the sun. No sugar or glucose is used, and the seasoning is placed in the jar with the 60 catties of water. Nor is there any boiling before use. The cost of white soy, which is more yellow than white, is from 80 to 96 cash a catty, according to quality. In the section on oil-yielding plants, p. 34 states: (e.) Glycine hispida, Max.In Ssuchuan the soy bean of Northern China and Manchuria is replaced by rape seed, and it is cultivated more as a vegetable than for its oil. The production of the latter is insignicant from a commercial point of view. In 1922 a derivative work titled Szechwan, its Products, Industries, and Resources, was published in Shanghai by Kelly & Walsh, Ltd. (185 p.). 45. Product Name: Doufu, and Fuyu (Fermented Tofu). Manufacturers Name: Sing-how Lee & Co.? Manufacturers Address: Jackson St., San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1904. New ProductDocumentation: Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1980. History of Tofu. p. 63. based on interview with Stanley Lee: In about 1904 Mr. Sing-how Lee started a tofu shop in San Francisco with several partners. No one remembers the name any longer. Because of conicts with the partners, he left and started Quong Hop in 1906 in Chinatown. The company may also have made fermented tofu. And some fermented tofu was probably being imported to America from Hong Kong and China. 46. Geil, William Edgar. 1904. A Yankee on the Yangtze: being a narrative of a journey from Shanghai through the Central Kingdom to Burma. New York, N.Y.: A.C. Armstrong and Son. xv + 312 p. Plus 100 unnumbered pages of plates. Illust. No index. 21 cm. Summary: The section titled Early rice states (p. 15): These dishes bore frightful dragon and other terrifying decorations, and contained rst, superannuated and odoriferous shrimps; second, sickly bean curd oating gently on a summer sea of native vinegar and mustard seed oil; the third dish boasted pickled turnip tops and other refuse; and the fourth, bean curd cheese which reminded me of wildcats liver soaked in sulphurated hydrogen. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term bean curd cheese
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (regardless of hyphenation) to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. The section titled Mr. Mas inn states (p. 114): We stopped at the Perpetual Provider Inn and had Early Rice at seven-forty, at which meal I ate two large bowls of rice and bean-curd. Address: Doylestown, Pennsylvania. 47. Li, Yu-ying. 1905. Le lait vgtal fabriqu en Chine [The vegetable milk made in China]. In: 2nd Congrs International de Laiterie: Compte-Rendu des Sances (2nd International Dairy Congress: Proceedings): Paris: Comit FranaisFdration International de Laiterie. 548 p. See p. 387-89. Held 16-19 Oct. 1905 at Paris, France. [Fre] Summary: The president of this international milk congress introduces Li Yu-ying as attach at the Chinese Legation, and ofcial delegate to the congress. Li begins by expressing his happiness at being able to speak to the congress and getting to know the many scholars and very competent people from many countries. In China, not much animal milk is consumed. It is replaced by another product: vegetable milk (le lait vgtal). This latter product could not be used here and, therefore, is of little interest to you. I will speak to you about it only as a curiosity, rst to explain the special method employed in my country for the production of vegetable milk and vegetable cheese, and nally to increase interest in these products because of their hygiene and economy. Everyone knows that animal milk is an excellent substance with numerous advantages. One may ask, therefore, why so little of it is consumed by the people of China. The reason is because it is relatively expensive and because cows cannot be raised in all parts of China. Dairying is practiced only in the north and the west of China. In the other provinces dairying is difcult because of the climate and the nature of the soil; so vegetable milk is consumed there. The latter is made with the seeds of Soja hispida or oil peas of China. This is an annual legume which has been imported to England, Spain, Belgium, and France. Presently it is widely cultivated in America as forage. Mr. Lechartier, director of the agronomic station at Rennes, has experimented with this plant in France; he obtained yields of up to 25,000 to 30,000 kg of green forage per hectare. This plant is therefore already known here. As forage, the soja hispida is as rich in protein as clover (tre), horse beans or dried kidney beans (les fveroles), etc.; but it is richer in fats than the other legumes. The seeds are richer in nitrogenous materials [protein] than other plants of the same family. Analyses show that they contain 30% protein, oil, and little starch. The seeds of this plant can also be used to make a cheese (tofou [tofu]) which is a major source nourishment for the peoples of China and Japan. It is consumed, in effect, every day and at every meal, as a main dish.
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The production of these two products [milk and cheese] is very simple. First the seeds are cooked, then they are pressed strongly to obtain a sort of puree, which is coagulated by a mineral salt that plays the role of rennet. The fresh cheese, which is made daily, must be sold and consumed the same day. It can be used in recipes like vegetables or meats. However it can also be preserved, either hot, or by putting it in a salt solution: in this way one obtains various cheeses which are used as desserts, as following: (1). Salted and smoked cheese (Le fromage sal et fum), which in both avor and form bears some resemblance to gruyere cheese. It can be stored for a rather long time; (2) Salted cheese (Le fromage sal), white in color, whose taste somewhat resembles that of goat cheese; (3) Fermented cheese (Le fromage ferment). Its color is white, yellow, or gray, and it avor is very strong, like that of Roquefort. The processes which give rise to Chinese milk and cheese also give residues [okara] which are not lost. They are employed either as fertilizer, or as feed for farm animals. Thus nothing is wasted from soybeans. Moreover, the factories where this plant is processed are very numerous, and the products made by them are the most moderately priced. A square or cake of vegetable cheese (carr de fromage vgtal) (11 by 10 by 2 cm), consumed daily by one person, costs about one centime, or about one-ftieth the price of an animal cheese of average price. It is of interest, nally, to compare the products of the animal dairy with those of the vegetable dairy, not only in terms of their similarity in appearance, but also in terms of their chemical composition. It is well known that animal milk contains a large proportion of casein; the same is true of vegetable milk, which contains legumine that has the same chemical formula as casein. Furthermore, during processing, the peas (le pois, i.e. soybeans) undergo a complete chemical and mechanical transformation which concentrates the nutritive parts and eliminates the others; it is this which explains the richness of the vegetable milk and cheese in nutritive principles. After all these considerations, you can realize the interest present in this industry in China. It can also be interesting in places where raising livestock is impossible. It is evident that this would be more difcult than in the countries which produce animal milk in large quantities. I am well aware that animal milk has a real superiority over vegetable milk, but doesnt it also have its disadvantages: Fraud, on the one hand, and its contagious diseases on the other? Moreover, milk merchants have various categories of milk at different prices; it is clear that the most expensive is the best, and vice versa. But the consumer knows full well that some milk is not of good quality, yet he is obliged to take it in order to earn money. Thus it is the fate of the poor to be condemned to drink milk of inferior quality, and often fraudulent. However, vegetable
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU milk does not support fraud and cannot transmit contagious diseases. It is the same for everyone; the poor consume the same product as the rich. Let the culture of soybeans expand therefore in Europe. One might try to make vegetable milk which will be destined, not for those who have the means to buy good milk, but rather for those who can only afford low-price milk; thus, fraud becomes useless, and this will a benet for public hygiene and for the purse of poor people. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (May 2011) concerning Li Yu-ying. It is also the earliest publication seen by him on the subject of soya. Note 2. These proceedings contain a list of attendees and of excursions. Address: Attach at the Chinese Legation, and ofcial delegate. 48. Katayama, T. 1906. On the preparation of a vegetable cheese from the protein of the soy bean. Bulletin of the College of Agriculture, Tokyo Imperial University 7(1):11719. April. German summary in Chemisches Central-Blatt 1906(2):540. [4 ref. Eng] Summary: Describes experiments to make a cheese similar to Swiss cheese. The soybean contains (according to Osborne and Campbell 1898) as its chief proteid constituent glycinin, a globulin similar in properties to legumin, but of somewhat different composition, containing nearly twice as much sulphur... and having the following composition: Carbon, 52.12; hydrogen, 6.93; nitrogen, 17.53; sulphur, 0.79; and oxygen, 22.63 per cent. This protein can be extracted from [soaked, ground] soybeans by boiling. The liquid thus obtained resembles cows milk in appearance, and when treated with calcium and magnesium salts, yields a precipitate which is sold in Japan under the name of Tfu. The author has attempted the preparation of a cheese from tofu. 450 gm of pressed tofu were mixed with 60 gm of common salt, 50 gm of nelyground Swiss cheese, and the mixture was wrapped in a linen cloth saturated with brine, and left for ve months in a room with an average temperature of 15 C. At the end of this time the mass was of a grey color, and quite compact; it was free from the numerous pores produced by evolution of gas in Swiss cheese. The cheese had an agreeable taste different from that of Swiss cheese, and when extracted with water, yielded a solution in which the presence of albumoses and peptones was detected. Further experiments with mixtures containing larger quantities of milk-sugar, but no casein, gave similar results. Address: Japan. 49. Hosie, Alexander. 1906. Report for the years 1904-05 on the foreign trade of China. Diplomatic and Consular Reports, Annual Series (Foreign Ofce, Great Britain). No. 3725. 120 p. Summary: This is a very detailed report by a seasoned expert on China. Net foreign trade [in 1904] amounted in
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silver to 583,547,291 Haikuan taels (83,580,992l. = pounds sterling). Table H, titled Principal articles of export in order of value (p. 32): Shows the three most valuable exports to be silk (11,208,457 = 78,255,412 Haikuan taels), tea (4,325,802), and cotton (3,553,744). No. 6 was Beans [soy] (705,662 = 4,926,805 Haikuan taels), and No. 17 was Bean cake [soy] (337,436). Other exports include: Oils (vegetable), re-crackers, tobacco, hemp, Chinaware, earthenware and pottery, opium (native; exported to Tonkin, etc.), sesamum seed, joss sticks, groundnuts, aniseed, and rhubarb. Table L, titled Chinas principal exports to Asiatic countries (India excepted), expressed in units of quantity, 1903, 1904, and 1899-1903 average. The top two articles in terms of the 5-year average are [soy] bean cake (3,464,375 cwt) and [soy] beans (2,650,900 cwt). Note: 1 cwt = hundredweight = 112 pounds. The section titled Beans and bean cake (p. 45) states: I have already explained that the shortage in the export of beans and bean cake to Japan was due to the war being waged in Manchuria. In the total export from China, beans decreased by 823,412 cwts. as compared with 1903, and bean cake dropped from 4,052,026 to 1,370,178 cwts. In these products the Yangtsze [Yangtze] Valley is beginning to compete with Manchuria: in 1904 Hankow sent away 3,173,224 cwts. of beans of all kinds, and Chinkiang had an export of 580,989 cwts. of bean cake and 355,670 cwts. of beans and peas. Under the year 1905, soy beans and bean cake are discussed on p. 94 and oils (vegetable) on p. 95. The oils produced in China are numerous and varied. Rape, sesamum, groundnut, tea, wood (Aleurites cordata, M. Arg.), cotton seed, bean, poppy seed, tallow seed (Sapium sobiferum, Roxb.), castor, cocoanut, hemp seed, linseed, perilla seed (P. ocymoides, L.), as well as lighting oils from Amoora Rohituka, W. and A., and Jatropha curcas, L., are all well known. In addition to these we have the essential oilscamphor, cassia, aniseed, peppermint, ginger, clove, orange peel and sandalwood (from imported wood). The most important of these oils from a commercial point of view is wood oil. Address: Acting Commercial Attach to His Majestys Legation at Peking. 50. Product Name: Doufu (Tofu), and Soy Sprouts. Manufacturers Name: Quong Hop & Co. Manufacturers Address: Wentworth Place (between Jackson and Washington Streets), San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1906. How Stored: Refrigerated. New ProductDocumentation: San Francisco City Directories. 1906-1966. In the years prior to about 1927 these directories did not list the names of Chinese residents or companies. In 1927 they listed three companies whose
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU names started with Quong but not Quong Hop & Co. which was rst listed in 1930 as a grocery company at 135 Waverly Place. This listing continued until 1938, when the term groceries was replaced by food manufacturers at 133 Waverly Place. In 1948-49 the company was listed as an importer at the same address. In 1951 for the rst time the company listing was associated with tofu; the occupation was described as simply bean cakes, still at 133 Waverly Place. The term bean cakes may well have referred to fermented tofu, or to both fresh and fermented tofu. This was changed in 1955 to bean cake manufacturers. In 1960 Hom O Hing and Yee Let Wong were apparently the owners. In 1966 the address changed to 1779 Folsom St. The occupation was still bean cake manufacturers. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1975. The Book of Tofu. p. 314. 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. James Miller & Stanley Lee. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1978, Dec. The Book of Tofu (Ballantine pocketbook edition). Appendix B: Tofu Shops and Soy Dairies in the West. p. 393. Quong Hop, 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, 94080. Phone: 415-8734444. Owner: Stanley Lee, Jim Miller: nigari tofu. In S.F. since 1906. Soya Bluebook. 1980. p. 55. 161 Beacon St. Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1980. History of Tofu. p. 63. Based on interview with Stanley Lee: In about 1904 Mr. Sing Hau Lee started a tofu shop in San Francisco with several partners. Because of conicts with the partners, he left and started Quong Hop & Co. [the name means Great Unity] in 1906 in Chinatown, on an alley called Wentworth Place, between Jackson and Washington Streets. In the basement of the store the company made tofu (rm and wine-fermented) and sprouts (soy and mung). The shop was very similar to a typical small tofu shop in China; the foods were sold at the store-front upstairs. After the 1906 earthquake, the company moved across the bay to Oakland for 6 months, then moved back to San Francisco to a new location at 135 Waverly Place in Chinatown. Quong Hop did a good business until the beginning of World War II when their supply of soybeans, all of which were imported from China, was cut off. So they restricted their tofu production to only fermented tofu. In the mid-1960s the company moved to 1779 Folsom St. at 14th. As the natural foods movement began, they decided in 1971 to start again to make regular tofu (plus several new varieties) and soymilk. In 1972 they moved to a large new factory at 161 Beacon St. in South San Francisco and developed many innovative products using tofu and soymilk. Note: This is the earliest record seen (April 2001) concerning Quong Hop & Co. and tofu. But note that the early documentation is missing! The rst solid listing is in 1951!
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51. Product Name: Fuyu Bean Cake (Fermented Tofu). Manufacturers Name: Quong Hop & Co. Manufacturers Address: Wentworth Place (between Jackson and Washington Streets), San Francisco, California. Date of Introduction: 1906. New ProductDocumentation: San Francisco City Directories. 1906-1966. See record for Quong Hop, Tofu. Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 17. Ad ( page, horizontal). The top of this ad is in English: Quong Hop & Co., 133 Waverly Place, San Francisco 8, California. Phone: YUkon 2-1739. A large photo shows a pint jar of Quong Hop fermented tofu. The front label reads: Since 1906. Quong Hop & Co. Bean Cake... Directory entry, p. 38. Category: Funyu wholesalers. Francis Kalnay. 1959. House Beautiful. May. p. 174-75. Soybean has all the answers. A photo shows the jar and label. The English portion of the front panel reads (from top to bottom): Since 1906. Quong Hop & Co. Bean cake. Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan (Year Book). 1970. Page 15. Half-page ad. Across top of ad in English: Quong Hop & Co., 1779 Folsom St., San Francisco, Calif. Phone: 5522476. A large photo at the center of the ad shows a jar of their Bean cake [fermented tofu]. In Japanese: Since 1906 the old maker (shop). Many years of experience and using very selective raw materials. It is the best side dish with your evening drinks. After 3 months you can enjoy it [Does this mean you must wait for 3 months before eating it?]. Please buy it at your local grocery store. (Directory entry, p. 37 under Food Products). Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 1980. History of Tofu. p. 63. based on interview with Stanley Lee: Quong Hop & Co. started in 1906 in San Francisco to make tofu (rm and winefermented) for the local Chinese population. The label bore the Cantonese characters pronounced fuyu, as well as the English term Bean Cake, a termed coined by the company to help health inspectors understand what type of product they were inspecting. During the Prohibition era (1919-1933) and thereafter, the term aided government inspectors from the Treasury Departments Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms to understand what they were taxing. Hop did a good business until the beginning of World War II when their supply of soybeans, all of which were imported from China, was cut off. So they restricted their tofu production to only fermented tofu. In the mid-1960s the company moved to 1779 Folsom St. at 14th. As the natural foods movement began, they decided in 1971 to start again to make regular tofu. Letter from Gordon Chang, Prof. of Chinese Studies, Stanford Univ. 1999. July 19. He likes fermented tofu and would like to learn to make it himself. He called Quong Hop and they no longer make it. They stopped three years ago, much to the dismay of his friends and relatives. 52. Marre, Francis. 1907. Le lait vgtal en Chine [Vegetable
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU milk in China]. Nature (La) (Paris) 35(1776 Supplement):13. June 8. [Fre] Summary: The use of milk as food in China is very limited. The immense empire, which is governed by the Son of Heaven, is not suited for raising livestock, except in its northern and western regions, which occupy only a small part of its total area. Moreover, the climate and nature of the soil do not permit the culture of forage crops. These purely geographical reasons are enough to explain why vegetable milk is consumed abundantly in the majority of Chinese provinces. This milk, whose name seems strange and a bit paradoxical, is made from the seeds of Soja hispida, also called the oil pea of China (haricot olagineux de Chine), an annual plant of the legume family. To obtain it, the seeds are rst [ground with water], boiled and then pressed, making a sort of puree which, when dissolved in water, makes a very nourishing vegetable milk. When treated with a mineral salt, which acts much like rennet in milk, it coagulates and may be made into a kind of cheese (to-fou) [tofu] which plays an important part in nourishing the Chinese and Japanese people. It is one of their basic daily foods and can be made into a great variety of culinary preparations. It is generally consumed fresh, the day it is made. But it may be cooked, and preserved by salting or smoking. In commerce, three principal varieties of vegetable cheese (fromage vgtal) [tofu] are found. One, which is fermented [fermented tofu], is white, yellow or gray, and has a piquant avor like that of Roquefort. The second is white and salty, resembling goat cheese / goats milk cheese. The third is smoked and quite like Gruyere (gruyre). In the process of making vegetable milk and tofu, they recover with care the various by-products [okara, whey] and use them with ingenuity to nourish their animals and as fertilizer for their elds; in this way nothing is lost. Even the stems of the plant and the pods that envelop the seeds are used as forage. Thanks to the fact that every part of the plant can be used, and thanks also to the low cost of manpower in China, soy cheese (fromage de soja) can be sold for such a low price that enough to serve a man for a day (110 square cm of surface by 2.5 cm thick) costs less than a centime [one-fth of a U.S. cent], or 50 to 60 times less than an equal quantity of animal cheese. As for the food value of soymilk, it is approximately equal to that of cows milk; it contains signicant quantities of legumine, whose chemical composition is very close to that of casein. Mr. Li Yu-Ying, an attach at the Chinese legation in Paris, made soymilk (lait de soja) the subject of an important presentation at the last dairy congress, and forecast the introduction of soya (soja) into French culture. Note: This is the earliest French-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that uses the term lait de soja to refer to soymilk. As of Oct. 2003 lait de soja is the modern French word for soymilk.
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53. Hosie, Alexander. 1908. China: Report for the year 1907 on the foreign trade of China. Diplomatic and Consular Reports, Annual Series (Foreign Ofce, Great Britain). No. 4152. p. 1-99. Summary: A list (p. 52) shows that Chinas leading articles of export, in descending order of value (million Haikuan [Haikwan] taels), are silk (89.1), tea (31.7), cotton, raw (16.9), skins and hides, undressed (12.4), bean cake (9.1)... vegetable oils (4.2), re-crackers (4.2)... sesamum seed (3.6)... groundnuts (0.4). A table (p. 62) shows exports of these items from China to Europe and America in 1902-06 (average), 1906, and 1907. Exports of oil (bean, tea, groundnut, wood, etc.) dropped 2.5% in 1907 compared with 1906. A table (p. 64) shows exports from China to Asiatic countries (India excepted) in 1902-06 (average), 1906, and 1907. Exports of bean cake rose from 4,661,956 cwts. [1 cwt = hundredweight = 112 pounds] in 1906 to 4,978,588 cwts. in 1907. Exports of beans dropped from 1,778,037 cwts. in 1906 to 1,591,508 cwts. in 1907. A section titled Beans, bean cake and bean curd (p. 68) discusses soybeans, soybean cake, and tofu. Within the knowledge of the Chinese Imperial Maritime Customs the export of beans from China to foreign countries amounted in 1907 to 1,591,508 cwts. [1 cwt = hundredweight = 112 pounds] of the value of 526,735l.; but the total export was much greater, for Japan alone claims to have taken 2,003,840 cwts., of which Manchuria contributed 1,266,775 cwts. There are also discrepancies in the gures for bean cake, accounted for in part by the fact that there was no Chinese custom-house at Dairen until July 1, 1907, and that during the whole of the year beans and bean cake, especially the latter, found their way from Northern Manchuria by the Chinese Eastern Railway to Vladivostock [Vladivostok], and thence by steamer to Japan without coming under the cognisance of the Chinese customs. The export of the bean product known as bean curd [fermented tofu], which is packed in earthenware jars and shipped for consumption by Chinese emigrants in the East, was larger in quantity but fell in value. A section titled Oils, vegetable and essential (p. 6970) begins: The quantity of oil (bean, groundnut, tea, wood, &c.) shipped to foreign countries in 1907 was 541,999 cwts, or 120,193 cwts. short of the export of 1906. The value of the shipment was 687,714l. [pounds sterling]. It is unfortunate that the Chinese customs authorities continue to group these oils under one heading. A detailed classication would be of considerable value in view of the important position which wood-oil has recently established in foreign markets... The same recommendation is applicable to essential oils which are grouped together as aniseed, cassia-leaf, &c. [incl. camphor oil].
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU A section titled seeds and seed cake (p. 70-71) notes: The most important of all the seeds exported from China is sesamum, which has sprung into prominence within the last few years. Also discusses exports of rape seed, cotton seed; soy is not mentioned in this section. Note: This is the earliest document seen (May 2005) that mentions the Russian port of Vladivostok in connection with soybeans. Address: Sir, Acting Commercial Attach to His Majestys Legation at Peking. 54. Huang Shirong. 1908. Weituiju suibi [Random notes from the plain avor studio]. China. Passage on soy reprinted in C.N. Li 1958 #349, p. 248-49. [Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Wei Tui Ch Sui Pi, by Huang Shih-Jung. Qing dynasty. A revised edition of this book, edited by Huangs son, appeared in 1916 during the Republican period. This is a summary by Mr. Huang (in China) of a publication by Li Yu-yingwho was in France at the time. The section titled Soybeans efcacy and use (gongyong) states: Mr. Li Yu-Ying recommends that China establish an association / society for soybeans and soybean technology for Chinese manufacturing. Li wrote two articles: One, to promote the establishment of a society for soybeans, and the second to promote manufacture of soybean products in China using modern technology. It is most important to invent new methods of production and manufacture, which would have a great effect on the industry. These two, which contained 5,000 words, were published in a Chinese newspaper [probably in China] the 2nd month on the 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th, 10th, 11th, and 12th days. Note: The name of the newspaper is not given. Mr. Huang summarizes the content as follows: The nutrients of the soybean benet health, economics, and commercial production; it is worthy of future development. Its wider propagation will improve the fertility of the soil because the roots contain nodules which x nitrogen to enrich the soil. Soybeans are a rich source of dairy products (milk content) and oil, so they are very nutritious. They can be used to make good substitutes for meat. They are rich in phosphorus and potassium, so they are healthful and strengthen the brain. Since they are lacking in starch, they are good for diabetic diets. Because they are a rich source of dairy products (milk content) and oil, they would be a good material for industrial exploitation. And its very inexpensive; it sells for only about one-fth as much as legumes from other countries. When you compare the milk / protein content with that of meat, milk, or eggs, or with other legumes and cereal grains, it is at least 2-10 times higher. The soybean is rich in phosphorus, which is equal to the efcacy of Western medical phosphorus. Other products: Whole soybeans (douren). Soybean noodles (doumian; wheat pasta enriched with soy); it is a substitute for wheat gluten (mianjin). Soybean oil (douyou). Soybean cakedefatted
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(doubing). Okara or residue from making soymilk (douzha; [mostly fed to animals]). Soymilk (doujiang). Spray-dried soymilk (doujiangfen). Canned soymilk (guandoujiang). Soured soymilk (suandoujiang; by lactic acid fermentation). Soybean extract (doujing). Tofu (doufu). Pressed tofusliced (doufugan yupian). Fermented tofu (faxiao doufu). Whey from making tofu (yujiang). Soy sauce (jiangyou). Sweet wheat-our jiang (tiandoujiang). Soy sprouts (douyacai). Soybean coffee (douren jiafei). (Translated by H.T. Huang, PhD, April 2003). 55. United States Land & Irrigation Exposition. 1909. Will the United States export rice to the Orient? (Ad). Chicago Daily Tribune. Oct. 4. p. 8. Summary: This organization believes that, using highlyproductive mechanized agriculture, the answer to the above question is yes. Food value of rice: The nutritive value of rice is greater than that of any other cereal, and it is easily digested, With a little seasoningdried sh, soy sauce or soy bean cheese [tofu, or fermented tofu] it furnishes for the Oriental a large part of the protein necessary for daily diet. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term bean cheese or the term soy bean cheese (regardless of hyphenation) to refer to fermented tofu. Address: 4th Floor (#407) Commercial National Bank Building, 115 Adams Street [Chicago]. 56. Lemari, Charles. 1910. Les sojas du Japon [The soybeans of Japan]. Bulletin Economique de lIndochine (Hanoi) 13(85):493-98. July/Aug. [4 ref. Fre] Summary: As a contribution to the study of the question of soybeans, so clearly revealed by the Inspector-Consul Mr. Brenier in a recent edition of this Bulletin, he judged it useful to ask me for the notes hereafter collected as much over the course of my lectures as upon the occasion of my voyage to Japan in 1903. I borrow much from Rein (The industries of Japan) and from Messrs. Paillieux and Bois (Le Potager dun Curieux or The Kitchen-garden of a Curious One) who summarized all that we know about soybeans (soja) in Europe up until recently (p. 493). Describes and gives the names of more than twenty cultivated varieties, using the classication system of Rein and the Japanese based on seed coat color. I have already said that it [the soybean] needs heat and frequent watering. These considerations explain, in part, the failures encountered up to now in the attempts to introduce this crop into Europe. I fear the same obstacles for Mr. Liyu-Ying, of Chinese nationality, formerly a student at the school of practical agriculture at Chesnoy, near Montargis (Loiret). Note: Loiret is a department of France just south of Paris. Montargis is a commune in the Loiret department; the ancient town is located about 110 km (68 mi) south of Paris.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU According to a lecture he gave last year to his former classmates, Li set himself the task of taking up these trials on the outskirts of Paris: or was it on the manure elds / sewage farms (champs dpandage) of Gennevilliers or Achres. But even if the cultivation of soybeans in France is not protable, nevertheless the popularization of the diverse products that come from them is no less useful; Indochina, if the need be, could provide for new industrial ventures. With Mr. Albert Demolon, a scientically educated agriculturist (ingnieur-agronome), then professor at Chesnoy, and today director of the Agricultural Station of Aisne [northeast of Paris] and of the Laboratory of Bacteriology at Laon, Mr. Liyu-Ying again took up his previous studies related to these various products. In particular, he compared soymilk, which he calls Casosojane, with animal milk, and he believed [it] possible, employing the highly developed procedures of handling and fermentation used [in France] with cows milk, to obtain forms of tofu (Tou-fou) acceptable for our Western palates. That is to say: rst, before any fermentation, a liquid [form of tofu] lends itself to the same uses as milk, especially useful for articial feeding of livestock; then, after coagulation: 1. a hard cheese, corresponding to cheese of the rm sort (fromage pte ferme), cooked egg, or cooked meat in richness of protein; 2. a soft cheese, corresponding to fresh cheese (fromage frais) and able to be consumed as a legume; 3. a fermented cheese, after sterilization then inoculation with microorganisms of certain special cheeses, corresponding to these diverse fermented animal cheeses (p. 497-98). Also discusses: Azuki (p. 497). Address: Directeur des Services agricoles et commerciaux du Tonkin. 57. Li, Yu-ying. 1910. Vegetable milk and its derivatives. British Patent 30,275. 5 p. Date of application, 30 Dec. 1910. Accepted 29 Feb. 1912.
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Summary: Li gives his occupation as Engineer. This invention consists in the manufacture of a vegetable milk and its derivatives by means of soja grains (Chinese peas), the milk thus produced having the appearance, the colour and the taste of ordinary milk, its chemical composition greatly resembling the same. It has moreover the same nutritive and alimentary properties. The grains are cleaned, decorticated, soaked and ground with water in a mill of the kind specied in British Patent Application 11,903 of 1911. The mechanized mill is composed of a xed lower millstone above which the upper millstone is mounted on a vertical shaft. The clear milky liquid produced by grinding the grain previously mixed with water in combination with the supply of water in the millstone enters a channel then passes into a shoot (t) which conveys it to a tank (u) from which it is drawn off by a pump (v) which forces it under pressure into the ltering press (x). On leaving the lter, it falls, after passing through a sieve (y) into a vat (z). From this vat it is conveyed through a pipe (a) to the boiler or digester (b). It is cooked with steam in a water-jacketed vessel, then pasteurized or sterilized. It is then bottled and is ready for consumption. The soja milk may be utilised in the two following cases. 1st. As a substitute for ordinary milk. It may be consumed as sterilised at temperatures of 110 to 120C. 2nd. As a raw material for use in different manufactures (cheeses, casein, and the like). It must then be heated from 60 to about 120C. It may also be concentrated, dried, or fermented. The milk obtained may be humanised or animalised, i.e., its composition may be brought to resemble that of human or animal milk. It is coagulated for making cheese by magnesium salts, organic salts, rennet, lactic ferments, or sojaobacille, a ferment obtained by cultivation in a mixture of the above-described liquid and sodium chloride
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the fermented paste obtained by putting into salt water soy beans that have been cooked with water and allowed, alone or mixed with cereal our, to stand in the air. For obtaining fermented cheese such as roquefort [Roquefort], parmezan [Parmesan], romatour [Rahmatour; Bavarian cream cheese], camambert [Camembert], and gruyere, suitable ferments are employed. For the fermented milk, the special ferment termed sojaobacille is employed or other ferments used for obtaining fermented milkskephir [ker], yoghourt [yogurt], koumiss, and the like, and which are the saccharomyces cerevis, dispora caucasica, maya bulgare, and the like, and the said milk is modied by the addition of sugar levulose, and the like and particularly of lactose. In making casein, the oil may be expressed from the beans before the preparation of the milk. The casein, obtained by coagulating the milk, may be used as food, paste, etc., or may be mixed with borax, oxide of zinc, magnesia, gelatin, etc., to obtain a hard industrial (non-food) substance termed sojalithe [resembling ivory, horn, or shell]. The lter press residues may be dried and ground to form a food for human beings, or may be used as food for cattle, or as manure. The liquid expressed in making cheese [soy whey] may also be used for feeding animals. An illustration shows a longitudinal view of all the equipment used in the invention; each important part is marked with a letter. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (June 2011) that mentions soy yogurt or fermented soy yogurt. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (June 2011) that mentions the word sojalithe (a hard plastic) or that discusses a specic non-food industrial use for soy protein;
sojalithe is probably derived from Galalith (a registered trademark; see F.G.J. Beltzer, June 1911). Galalith, or Erinoid in the United Kingdom, a synthetic plastic material manufactured by the interaction of casein and formaldehyde, was introduced in 1900 at the Paris Universal Exhibition in France. In France, Galalith was distributed by the Compagnie Franaise de Galalithe located near Paris in Levallois-Perret. It was rst used to make buttons, resulting in a revolution in the button industry. In 1913 some 30 million liters (8 million U.S. gallons) were used to make Galalith in Germany alone. Ever the entrepreneur, Li apparently saw sojalithe as a potential substitute for expensive ivory. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term fermented cheese to refer to a type of fermented tofu, or to a Western-style soy cheese (Roquefort, Parmesan, Camembert, or Gruyere types). It is interesting to note that all of these Western-style cheeses are traditional mold-ripened cheeses. Note 4. Levulose, now more commonly called fructose, is a sugar. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that contains the term soja milk. Note 6. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2011) that mentions the bottling of soymilk or the sale of soymilk in bottles. Address: Engineer, 46 rue Denis Papin, aux Vales [Valles] (Seine), France. 58. Lafar, Franz. 1910. Technical mycology: The utilization of micro-organisms in the arts and manufactures. Vol. I. Schizomycetic fermentation. Translated from the German by Charles T.C. Salter. London: Charles Grifn & Co. xvi + 312 p. Introduction by Dr. Emil Chr. Hansen (Principal of the Carlsberg Laboratory, Copenhagen). Illust. (90 gs). Index is in Vol. II. 23 cm. [Eng] Summary: This rst volume discusses bacterial (schizomycetic) fermentations. Richly illustrated, it also includes accurate historical background on many subjects. An extensive bibliography for both this volume and volume II appears at the back of volume II (p. 417-518). The Preface, by Emil Chr. Hansen of Copenhagen, states (p. vi): Within the last two decades the study of Microbiology has made gigantic strides, both in the pathological and technical branches of the subject; and just as investigations into the Physiology of the higher plants gave the rst impetus to the establishment of Agricultural Experiment Stations in all countries, so, in like manner, have the Physiology of Fermentation and Technical Bacteriology called into existence, within the last few years, a number of Stations and Laboratories for the development of those branches of industry where micro-organisms play an important part. The rst three chapters, comprising the introduction, give an interesting early history of the discovery of fermentation. Their contents: 1. The theory of spontaneous generation:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Denition, discovery of fermentative organisms, Needhams demonstration in favour of Generatio quivoca, Spallanzanis experiments, Franz Schultzes experiment, foundation of the science of antiseptics by Schwann, labours of Schrder and Dusch, Pasteurs examination of the theory, Bchamps microzyme theory, spontaneous generation only unproven, not impossible. 2. Theories of fermentation: The alchemistsStahls theory of fermentation, Gay-Lussacs opinion, Cagniard-Latours vitalistic theory, Th. Schwanns researches, Fr. Ktzings general theory, Liebigs decomposition theory, Pasteurs theory. Ngelis physico-molecular theory, the enzymes and M. Traubes ferment theory, general denition of fermentation, so-called spontaneous fermentation of sweet fruits, decompositions effected by light and air. In Chapter 31, titled The fermentation of cheese and allied decompositions (p. 243-52) are sections on Pure culture ferments (p. 246-47) and Natto and miso (p. 24748; each a kind of vegetable cheese). The latter section also discusses the Soja bean, Fr. Haberlandt, koji, shoyu (called shojou, soy or shoyn), tofu and nukamiso. Reports by H.C. Prinsen-Geerligs on the preparation (by the aid of fungoid ferments) of other dishes from soja beans in Chinese cookery, such as Taohu or bean-cheese [tofu], the sauce Taoyu, &c. In Chapter 33, titled The xation of free nitrogen by bacteria (p. 259-71) are sections on The discovery of leguminous nodules (p. 261-62; Malpighi, Boussingault, Hellriegel), Formation and functions of the nodules (p. 262-64; Lachmann, Frank, Woronin, Hellriegel, Wilfarth), The nodule bacteria (p. 264-66; organized albuminoids, Bacillus radicicola), and The bacteroids (p. 266-69). Concerning bacteroids: The rst successful, articial production of nodules by the aid of pure cultures was made by A. Prazmowski. This worker, in view of the absence of the sporogenic faculty in these organisms, changed the name of Bacillus radicicola, bestowed on them by Beyerinck, into Bacterium radicicola. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2003) that uses the word bacteroids (or bacteroid) in connection with root nodules on plants. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word Taohu to refer to Chinese-style tofu. Address: Prof. of FermentationPhysiology and Bacteriology, Imperial Technical High School, Vienna. 59. Li, Yu-ying. 1910. Ta tou: Le soja [The soybean]. Paris: Socit Biologique de lExtrme Orient. 66 p. Illust. 28 cm. [Chi] Summary: This remarkable work, written entirely in Chinese, was the rst of Lis major works on soybeans and soyfoods. Published in Paris, it was written in Chinese and meant to be read by young people in China interested in
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coming to Paris to study or in helping Li with research on Chinese soybean varieties. An expanded and revised version was published into French the next year (1911). Contents: Soybeans: 1. Introduction. 2. Names and varieties (colors, sizes, and shapes) of soybeans. 3. Where soybeans are produced and their history. 4. The place of soybeans in the hierarchy of plants (taxonomy). 5. Nutritional composition of soybeans. 6. Characteristics of soybeans (physiological, morphological, etc.). 7. Food uses of soybeans (incl. tables comparing the price of tofu with various meats, and the various sicknesses associated with eating different types of meat). 8. Equipment used in making soyfood products (a photo shows the equipment in Lis modern soymilk and tofu plant near Paris; p. 37), and compares soymilk with cows milk. A large soybean utilization diagram in Chinese (p. 44) shows all the products that can be made from soybeans using the wet process (from soymilk) or the dry process (from our). Note: This is the earliest document seen (July 2002) that contains a diagram of this type. 9. Value of soybeans in agriculture (incl. fertilizer use). 10. Conclusion. Appendixes: (1) About the Socit biologique de lExtrme Orient (Far-East Biological Society). (2) Membership form for the Far-East Biological Society (Paris): Date, name, A.K.A., Address, Occupation or subject of study, Place of birth. Please enclose 2 yuan membership fee (p. A6). (3) Bibliography of publications on soybeans by the Society of the Far East (p. A7-8). (4) Special announcement concerning soybean research (p. A9). Illustrations (line drawings) show: (1) Comparison of shapes and colors of 7 different colors of soybeans (p. 5). (2) Five views of soybean pods with beans, incl. outside of pod, inside of both halves when open, with beans in one half, the two cotyledons of a single soybean (p. 11). (3) Soybean plant with pods (p. 12). Photos show: (1) The cellular components and layers of soybeans and hyacinth beans (p. 22, 23). (2) The interior and equipment in Lis soymilk and tofu plant on the outskirts of Paris (p. 37). (3) Microscopic views of soymilk (doujiang) and a liquid resembling soymilk made from soy our (p. 38). Tables show: (1) Size range (length, width, and thickness; maximum, average, and minimum) of 7 colors of soybeans: yellow bean, green skin bean, green bean, dark bean {black or crow bean}, black bean, red bean, spotted bean (p. 4). (2) Composition of four parts of a soybean plant: Comparison, water, protein, oil, carbohydrates, ash (p. 18). (3) Comparison of oil and protein content of 5 colors of soybeans (red, black, green, white, yellow) from various countries and regions: China, Japan, Southeast Asia, Russia, Hungary, and France (p. 19). (4) Composition of soybeans, hyacinth beans, and wheat (p. 21). (6) Comparison of the price of tofu with that of various meats (p. 29). (7) Ash content of soybeans, hyacinth beans, duck, uncooked rice, cabbage, egg, beef, chicken, lamb, pork, carp, wheat our
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HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (p. 31). (8) Carbohydrate content of uncooked rice, wheat our, hyacinth bean, soybean (p. 32). (9) Weight of products containing 100 gm of protein: Soybeans, tofu (somewhat rm), hyacinth bean, uncooked rice, bread, cooked rice, vegetables (p. 32). Publications listed in the Bibliography (p. A7-8): Ta touThe soybean (this book; published 1909). Bean curd20 centuries of great craftsmanship around the world (1908). SoycraftingChinas manufacturing specialty (1908). The Paris Bean Curd Company (1908, illustrated). An outline of the agricultural societies of France (1908). Note: the above publications concern industrial matters. A description of herbs (Chinese medicinal plants etc.) (1909). TB [Tuberculosis] and its cure (1909). Note: the above publications concern medicinal herb and health matters. The benets of soyfoods (1909). Smoking and its relationship to health, economics and industry (1909). Note: the above publications concern industrial and health matters. Special announcement concerning soybean research (p. A9): GentlemenMany of us in this society are researching the benets of the soybean. It may be considered as Chinas greatest resource. We have already published a number of specialized reports. These have been made available to you. In view of the fact that there are so many varieties of soybean in China and that the regions of cultivation are so extensive, we must rely upon you, our colleagues, in all parts of the country to go into the eld and collect data for us. Only then will we be able to complete our research into every variety of Chinese soybean. If we should receive your kind consent, we beg you to be so good as to send the soybean varieties to the Peking postal address of this Society (address is given). We are interested only in soybeans (see pages 1-6 of this book) and need one or two catties (0.5-1.0 kg) of each. Once our research into the benets and properties of these beans is complete, we will submit a further report to this Society, in order to repay your goodwill. If you would please advise us of the cost of the beans and the postal charges, we will make the appropriate refunds. We will also send you a copy of this book as a modest token of our gratitude. Enclosed please nd an explanatory document. Please take the trouble to complete this and send it together with the beans. The Paris/Far-East Biological Research Society On page A-10 is a form to be used when submitting the Chinese soybean varieties. 60. Beltzer, Francis J.-G. 1911. tudes sur la casine vgtale du soja et ses applications [Studies on the vegetable casein of soybeans and its applications]. Revue Scientique 49(23):716-20. June 10. [4 ref. Fre] Summary: The author did his research in Cochin China [todays Vietnam], then a French colony. This is a very original and important article. Contents: Introduction. Vegetable milk [soymilk].
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Vegetable cheese [tofu and fermented tofu]. Industrial vegetable casein (La casine vgtale industrielle; i.e. soy protein). Production of vegetable casein: Cleaning and washing the soybean seeds, extraction of the oil (which can be used in soap), extraction of the casein. Industrial [nonfood] applications of vegetable casein: Paint, paper coating, Galalith, etc. Conclusion. The preparation of vegetable milk and vegetable cheese are widely practiced today in Cochin China and in Annam [todays North Vietnam], as recently discussed by Mr. Henri Labb in Revue Scientique (11 Feb. 1911). Soymilk (lait vgtal). After describing the process for preparing soymilk, the author notes: This soymilk serves for the feeding of infants and for general nutrition (Le lait sert lallaitement des enfants et lalimentation gnerale); it can also be used for the production of a vegetable cheese (fromage vgtal). Tofu (fromage vgtale): When vegetable milk is treated with a mineral salt or an acid, playing a role analogous to that of rennet, it produces curds through coagulation, resembling those of ordinary casein. By draining and washing, one obtains a sort of white cheese (fromage blanc) which plays a major role in the nutrition of the peoples of the Far East. In Indochina the milk is coagulated by the addition of a very small quantity of a powder called Tchach-Kao or plaster [calcium sulfate], which comes from a selenite pulverised by the action of re. Tofu is generally eaten fresh, the same day it is made, but it can also be preserved by salting or smoking. In Annam, three main varieties of tofu are found: 1. Fermented tofu, gray or yellow in color, with a avor resembling Roquefort cheese; 2. White or salted tofu resembling goats cheese; 3. Baked or smoked tofu, resembling Gruyere cheese. At the market in Saigon, Chinese sell regular tofu to the natives for one-tenth the price of Gruyere cheese. Industrial vegetable casein: Defatted soybean meal from oil presses is ground between millstones with cold water to give a slurry that is ltered to obtain soymilk. The soymilk is heated to boiling, then calcium sulfate is added to precipitate the protein, which is collected (just like tofu curds) on lter cloths. The presscake is mixed with forage and molasses, then fed to livestock. The curds are then dissolved in diluted soda lye (sodium hydroxide), ltered, precipitated with acetic acid. The nely divided precipitate is ltered out, washed on the lter, left to evaporate in the open air, then dried to a yellowish powder at a low temperature. The casein thus obtained is white, and, from an industrial viewpoint, very pure. It is insoluble in water, but soluble in dilute caustic alkalies and in ammonia. It exhibits almost precisely the same properties as the casein obtained from ordinary milk. It is found on experiment to be susceptible of the same industrial applications as animal casein, and may come to largely supersede this because of lower cost. 100 gm of soybeans yields about 25 gm of this vegetable protein,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU which has both food and industrial uses. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (June 2011) concerning isolated soy protein. The author says that his vegetable protein has both food and industrial uses. Note 2. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Aug. 2003) that uses the term casine vgtale du soja or casine vgtale industrielle to refer to isolated soy protein. Industrial applications of vegetable casein: Like animal casein, industrial vegetable casein, free of fat or buttermilk, can be used in a host of applications. It can be used in making paints, and for the preparation of moisture-resistant products. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2001) that mentions the use of soy protein in paints. It may be used also for the sizing (coating used to ll the pores) of paper, which consumes such large quantities of ordinary casein. Being soluble in ammonia and caustic solutions it is capable of forming a smooth and solid size. Note 4. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2001) concerning the use of soy protein as a sizing for paper. Other uses are in certain manufacturing processes in the preparation of silks and articial textiles, as well as of rubber, leathers, plastic materials, lms, photographic emulsions, etc. Note 5. This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2001) concerning the use of soy protein to make silks, articial textiles, or other industrial (non-food) bers. Note 6. This is the 2nd earliest document seen (Dec. 2001) concerning the use of soy protein as a raw material for making plastics. Large amounts of animal casein are at present employed in the manufacture of Galalith, from which are made numerous objects which imitate articles made from ivory, tortoise-shell, bone, horn, etc. The Soya casein, when free from fats, is equally well adapted for these purposes. Formol acts upon this casein in the same way as on ordinary casein, rendering it insoluble. Hence it may be used for the water-proong of fabrics, straw hats, etc., as well as for the preparation of sizes and dressings... A solution of vegetable casein and borax can be successfully utilized in the process of calico printing. It will be seen from the foregoing rsum, that the fabrication of vegetable casein for industrial purposes has immense possibilities, only exceeded in importance by the alimentary value of its food products for man and for beast. Note 7. Websters Third New International Dictionary (1963) denes Galalith (a registered trademark)as used for a hornlike plastic [also resembling ivory or bone] made from casein [milk protein] and formaldehyde and used especially in making small molded objects (as buttons, beads, or combs). This is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2003) that mentions Galalith in connection with soy protein. Galalith, a new horn-like product from cows milk, was sold commercially by Nov. 1905 and the process was protected
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by patents in all civilized countries (Monthly Consular and Trade Reports, USA. 1905. No. 302. Nov. p. 243.) Conclusion: A Chinese factory has already been established on the outskirts of Paris (at Valles near Colombes) to make food products based on soya (produits alimentaires base de Soja). This factory now produces tofu (Caso-Sojane) and the following food products: Soy our, soy bread, soy sauce, sweet soya preserves (conture de Soja), soymilk (lait de soja), fermented soymilk (lait de Soja ferment), tofu (fromage de Soja), etc. Note 8. We wonder: Was Beltzer inuence more by Li Yu-ying, or was Li inuenced more by Beltzer? Both did independent and original research, however by Dec. 1910, some 6-7 months before this article was published, Li had applied for two French patents and three British patents which describe how to make various soy products in detail including many of those products described by Beltzer. Therefore, we believe that Li inuenced Beltzer more than Beltzer inuenced Li. The Indochinese prepare, in addition, a fermented liquor, a concentrated milk, an alimentary our, and a casein which forms the essential food of the people... Many Europeans are preoccupied with extracting part of the nutritive principles that exist so abundantly in the seeds, for the feeding of armies at war and of colonial troops... Hopefully the question of food uses of soy will be taken up at the same time as the manufacture of industrial casein, and that this will permit the utilization of the immense resources that our Indochinese colonies offer as raw materials. Note 9. Later in 1911 this article was summarized in Scientic American Supplement and printed as a special booklet. Note 10. This is the earliest document seen (May 2000) that uses the term la Caso-Sojane to refer to a food clearly to tofu. Li Yu-ying coined this term, apparently after considerable thought and research. However the author also uses the term fromage vgtale to refer to tofuperhaps more generically. Martine Liguori, a native French speaker who is interested in tofu, noted in an interview (May 2000): This term for tofu doesnt sound foreign. Rather it sounds somewhat scientic, learned, and upper-class, as from the techno-elite. If you dont know what it means, thats because you are not well enough educated. In France, people will adopt something that is upper class, but they resist foreign thingseven foreign words. This whole idea originated in France when Napoleon created the Grandes Ecoles (French graduate schools) to develop an intellectual elite to replace the royal elite. Note 11. This is the earliest document seen (April 2001) that mentions dried tofu. Address: Ingnieur-chimiste. 61. Barrau, Fernand de. 1911. La situation agricole dans lAveyron: La fve soja; Lait et fromage de soja [The agricultural situation in the department of Aveyron.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Soybeans, soymilk, tofu]. Journal dAgriculture Pratique 75(2):21-22. July 6. [Fre] Summary: The Roquefort cheese industry in the region of Roquefort is experiencing hard times and the author fears that soy cheese (le fromage de Soja) may offer additional competition. Many provinces of China, especially Manchuria, and all the countries of East Asia, cultivate on a vast scale the bean called Soja or Soya from which one can extract at will an excellent bread, oil, milk, butter, or cheese. Already, quite near Asnires (Seine), there exists a factory named Caso-Sojane, supplied by soybeans imported from these distant countries. In this factory attempts have been made to make a special bread for diabetics using the our of this bean. (Soybean seeds are very low in starch, which is the enemy of diabetics, and very rich in oils and protein.) The factory also produces confections, raw milk, cooked and sweetened milk, oil, various cheeses, not to mention the various cakes used to feed livestock. In the region of Roquefort, certain people are starting to ask themselves if they wont soon have to ght against another products besides the cheese made in Corsica, or in the Pyrenees region, or in the plains of the Crau (near Avignon in Bouches-du-Rhone province). This product which they see as a competitor in the near future is soy cheese. With special reference to soy cheeses, it is stated in the Revue Scientique of last June 11, that the Orientals obtain three varieties of it: (1) A fermented variety, gray or yellow in color, reminiscent of Roquefort; (2) A white, salted variety resembling goats cheese; (3) A broiled or smoked variety (cuite ou fume) resembling Gruyre. Since the Orientals themselves make a cheese from soya milk that reminds us of Roquefort, doesnt this tell us that tomorrow the factory at Asnires, with the same milk, wont also imitate Roquefort cheese very well? And how do we know that one day an industrialist wont come right here to Roquefort to establish a factory, similar to that at Asnires, to convert to cheese the milk drawn from soybeans (fves de Soja)? Thus speak those who are always trembling for our old and glorious Roquefort cheese. They would like to limit clearly the territory and the rights of soja, and have Parliament decide that one can never make from it a cheese resembling ours, and above all that such a soy cheese can never be imported into the commune of Roquefort. But is that possible? No. What is possible is to let it be known, by the local tribunals (courts of law), what has already been pronounced 100 times, that Roquefort cheese is made from the milk of sheep, and that a cheese made from vegetable milk cannot be sold under the name of Roquefort cheese. After all this time, we dont really see that soya cheese could jeopardize our Roquefort. And if ever there are measures to take against soya, ordinary local tribunals will doubtless sufce, without national legislators getting involved. Address: France.
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62. Beltzer, Francis J.-G. 1911. Le lait vgtal, la casine vgtale et les produits industriels retirs des graines de soja [Vegetable milk, vegetable casein, and industrial products extracted from soybeans]. Revue de Chimie Industrielle et le Moniteur Scientique, Quesneville 22(259):209-15. July; 22(260):241-51. Aug. (Chem. Abst. 5:3597). Also published in Paris by Librairie Bernard Tignol (1911). Bibliotheque des Actualites Industrielles, No. 144. [13 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Introduction: Chemical composition of the soybean and of soy oil. Fermented soyfoods and koji: Li Yu-ying and his soyfoods plant established near Paris (at Valles, near Colombes), the products it makes (tofu or soy casein {Caso-Sojane}, soy our, bread, sauce, confections, milk, fermented milk, tofu, etc.), soyfoods made in French Indochina. Soymilk (lait vgtal). Tofu (fromage vgtal or to-fou): fresh tofu, fermented tofu (La varit fermente, which is gray or yellow and has a piquant taste resembling that of Roquefort cheese), white and salted tofu (which resembles a goats cheese), smoked tofu (which resembles a gruyre cheese)... Industrial production of vegetable casein from soybeans (cleaning the seeds, extraction of the oil), cost of a plant to make vegetable casein, industrial applications of vegetable casein: in paints, glues, paper coatings, plastics resembling Galalith, conclusion. An illustration (schematic drawing; p. 248) shows two views (a cross-sectional side view and an overhead oor plan) of a factory for producing vegetable casein, with a capacity to process 10 tons of soybeans per day. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2001) concerning the use of soy protein in glues or adhesives. Address: Ingnieur-chimiste, Expert, Professeur de Chimie Industrielle, France. 63. Scientic American Supplement.1911. Extended utilization of soya bean products: Milk, cheese, and a variety of other products from a vegetable seed. 72(1859):115. Aug. 19. Summary of Beltzer 1911, in Revue Scientique. [Eng] Summary: A Chinese factory has been established [by Li Yu-ying] not far from Paris for the purpose of manufacturing alimentary products from Soya, and it has already put on the market Soya our, Soya bread, Soya sauce, Soya Milk, Soya cheese, preserves, fermented milk, etc. The well-known chemical engineer, F.J.G. Beltzer, who has made a careful study of the whole subject, publishes in the Revue Scientique a report of whose most important features we present an abstract. For purely industrial applications it is necessary, as we have said, that the vegetable casein be entirely free from fatty matters. In the industrial treatment of Soya, therefore, the process is somewhat different. The 3 objects sought are: the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU pure oil, the casein entirely free from oil, and the residuary cake. The oil is extracted by pressing, and 2 grades are obtained. The rst or purest is sold for edible purposes, while the second is useful for soap-making and other manufactures where oils and fats are employed... The pure casein is prepared from the pulp which remains after the extraction of the oil. The milky liquid obtained by triturating the pulp with cold water, is ltered and treated with powdered gypsum. About 1 kilo of gypsum per 1,000 liters of the liquid is used. The mixture is brought to a boil and the resulting coagulate is drained and washed in cloth lters. The casein thus obtained is dissolved in a quantity of very dilute soda solution, so weak that the reaction is either neutral or very slightly alkaline. The solution is ltered and then precipitated by acetic acid. The nely divided precipitate obtained is ltered out, washed on the lter and nally dried at a low temperature. The casein thus obtained is white, and, from an industrial point of view, very pure. It is insoluble in water, but soluble in dilute caustic alkalies and in ammonia. It exhibits almost precisely the same properties as the casein obtained from ordinary milk. It is found on experiment to be susceptible of the same industrial applications as animal casein, and may come to largely supersede this because of lower cost. Among the various uses to which it may be applied we may mention its employment in painting, and for the preparation of products having a resistance to moisture. It may be used also for the sizing of paper, which consumes such large quantities of ordinary casein. Being soluble in ammonia and caustic solutions it is capable of forming a smooth and solid size. Other uses are in certain manufacturing processes in the preparation of silks and articial textiles, as well as of rubber, leathers, plastic materials, lms, photographic emulsions, etc. Large amounts of animal casein are at present employed in the manufacture of Galalith, from which are made numerous objects which imitate articles made from ivory, tortoise-shell, bone, horn, etc. The Soya casein, when free from fats, is equally well adapted for these purposes... It will be seen from the foregoing rsum, that the fabrication of vegetable casein for industrial purposes has immense possibilities, only exceeded in importance by the alimentary value of its food products for man and for beast. The residuary cake left after the extraction of both oil and casein still retains sufcient nutritive qualities to be useful as an addition to the feed of animals. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soya cheese to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soya cheese to refer to either (or both) regular tofu or fermented tofu. By 1905
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Li presented a paper (in French) describing how he had tofu to make Fermented cheese (Le fromage ferment). Its color is white, yellow, or gray, and it avor is very strong, like that of Roquefort. In Dec. 1910 he applied for British Patent 30,275, titled Vegetable milk and its derivatives. It was accepted / issued on 29 Feb. 1912. It stated: For obtaining fermented cheese such as roquefort [Roquefort], parmezan [Parmesan], romatour [Rahmatour], camambert [Camembert], and gruyere, suitable ferments are employed. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term Soya casein to refer to an isolated soy protein product; it is used for industrial purposes. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 2004) that uses the term silks (or silk) to refer to spun soy protein ber used like a textile ber. 64. Li, Yu-ying; Grandvoinnet, L. 1912. Le soja [The soybean]. Agriculture Pratique des Pays Chauds (Bulletin du Jardin Colonial) 12(106):28-38. Jan. [16 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents (continued): Soymilk (continued): Chemical properties, composition (comparison with 8 animal milksin bar chart form showing protein, lipids, carbohydrates, and ash), action of ferments [enzymes] and diastases [diastatic enzymes] on soymilk (Action des ferments et des diastases sur le lait de soja) (1. The lactic ferments {ker, yogurt, etc.} act in the same way on vegetable milk and on animal milks. 2. The ferments of certain European cheeses make analogous vegetable cheeses {fromage vgtal dune faon analogue}. 3. Rennet coagulates soymilk, but the optimum temperature is a little higher than for cows milk. 4. The ferments that we have extracted from shoyu [Japanese soy sauce] coagulate animal milks in the same way as vegetable milk). Uses of soymilk (p. 30): They are the same as those of the animal milks. We will note, mostly, its use in China as a substitute for mothers milk. (Footnote 1. One of our parents was nourished, from the rst phase of life, with soymilk. He/ she is now 37 years old and has always been in excellent health). Residues of the [soy] dairy (residus de laiterie; okara). Condensed soymilk (lait de soja concentr). Powdered soymilk (lait de soja en poudre). Fermented soymilk (Ker, yogurt, etc. are increasingly used therapeutically. One can compensate for the lack of carbohydrates in vegetable milk by the addition of lactose {or levulose for diabetics}). Tofu which Li calls Caso-Sojane (fromage de soja)meaning tofu or soy cheese: Method of production, coagulants used, perfected modern production methods at Lis factory (In this factory, tofu can be made into either non-fermented or fermented cheeses. The non-fermented cheeses {Fromages non ferments} are of two types: Fresh and hard/rm. The fresh are white in color and the consistency of hard-boiled eggs. The hard/rm are of two types: In diced sheets {salted or unsalted}, and in salted, semi-dry pieces/morsels. The
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU fermented cheeses {Fromages ferments} may be of the Gruyere, Roquefort, or Camembert types), tofu yields, preservation and storage, composition of tofu (compared with 4 meats on a moisture-free basic, in bar chart form showing protein, lipids, carbohydrates, and ash), digestibility of tofu, culinary preparations based on tofu (tofu omelette with egg, smoked tofu with shoyu, tofu pt, soy sausage made like regular sausage except that meat and fat are replaced by fresh, hard tofu plus butter or cocoa butter). Soy casein (Casine de soja; for food or industrial uses). Contains various tables and charts from other sources. Residues of the [soy] dairy (residus de laiterie; okara, p. 30-31): After ltering the [soy] milk, a slightly rm, aqueous oilcake remains in the lter cloth that is still very rich in nutrients (substances alimentaires). According to Dr. Bloch, it does not contain any trace of starch (our tests agree with this conclusion). Consisting of torn cells emptied of the largest part of their content, it would have the following percentage composition (see Bloch 1907): Protein 0.248, water 88.75, ash 0.36, fat .04, other 10.85. The oilcake (torteau) obtained at the factory of SoyCasein (Caso-Sojaine) and analyzed at the municipal laboratory of Paris yielded: Water 80.04, protein 33, fat 8.44, carbohydrates 22.63, mineral salts 4.24. This oilcake was very easily dried to 10% water. The milk can only be ltered after boiling, thus according to Prinsen [Geerligs]: Proteins 29.38, oil 12.81, ash 4.66, carbohydrates that are convertible to sugar 26.80, ber 11.10, cellulose 10.2. The oilcake can be diluted in water. The liquid thus obtained is used in grinding to make the second extraction of [soy] milk. Soy casein (p. 38): The casein or legumine of soymilk can be prepared by precipitation, purifying it by several dissolutions and precipitations, and nally drying it. One obtains a yellowish powder resembling animal casein obtained by the same processes. It is generally admitted that vegetable albumins have a coefcient of assimilation greatly inferior to those of animal albumins. But conrmation of this is far from being denitive. The experiments of Messrs. H. [Henri] Labb and Marchoisne have showed, in effect, that vegetable albumin is as well assimilated as animal albumin. Legumine is different from animal casein, but the differences are of the same order as those which exist between the various animal caseins. The differences existing between the caseins of the various animal milks have been noted by many chemists. The casein extracted from soymilk can be used in the same applications as casein from cows milk. These are of two types: food and industrial. For food uses, one can point out the manufacture of powders, of lacteal ours (farines lactes, perhaps wheat our enriched with soy casein), of
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whole-grain bread, etc. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (April 2001), worldwide, that mentions a Western-style soy cheese (Gruyere, Roquefort, or Camembert types), or a tofu sausage. This is also the earliest French-language document seen that mentions soy cheese, which it calls fromage de soja. Note 2. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2003) concerning the use of tofu in a second generation product. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen, worldwide, that mentions powdered soymilk or dried soymilk. Note 4. This is the earliest document seen, worldwide, that mentions soy ker. Address: 1. Counseiller de 1ere classe au Ministre de lAgriculture de la Chine; 2. Ingnieur agricole (G.). 65. Gibbs, H.D.; Agcaoili, F. 1912. Soja-bean curd, an important Oriental food product. Philippine J. of Science 7A(1):47-54. Feb. Section A. [13 ref] Summary: Discusses chemical analyses of soybeans, method of manufacture of the curd around Manila, and adulteration of the product in the locality. One of the most important foods manufactured from the soy-bean is the curd which is sold in the form of small cakes. The Chinese have introduced and extended the use of this product throughout the East, and Bloch [1906] states that there is no Chinese settlement without one or two bean-cheese factories. This curd is known by a number of different designations. In English it is often spoken of as bean cake or bean cheese, although it is not entitled to the designation cheese, since no ripening process takes place in its manufacture... Among the natives of the Philippine Islands surrounding Manila, it is called toqua [tokua], a name of Chinese origin. In China the substance is known as teou-fou and tao-hu and in Japan as topu [sic, tofu]. In this district, as far as observation has extended, the manufacture is carried on entirely by Chinese practically in the manner described by Bloch and Geerligs, except that methods have been introduced which border on adulteration [sic, with powdered gypsum, which coagulates the soymilk]. The soja-bean, Glycine hispida Maxim, is imported into the Philippines from southern China in large quantities, principally from Amoy and Hongkong. In the markets of the latter place they are known as soy-beans or pak-tau [white beans]. The author conducted two analyses of baked cakes of toqua and found they contained: Moisture: 73.0% and 72.1%. Protein: 13.88% and 17.56%. Fat: 10.78% and 10.99%. Ash: 1.2% and 1.27%. The same food product, known locally under the name tahuri or tahuli [tofu pickled in brine] is imported from southern China in large stone jars. It is preserved by covering the cakes with a strong salt solution. During shipment, the cakes are somewhat broken, giving to the liquid portion the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU appearance and consistency of an emulsion. The two portions of the mixture were analysed separately. Table III shows that the solid and liquid portions of tahuri / tahuli contain: Water: 55.76% and 57.86%. Protein: 14.56% and 9.56%. Fat: 7.12% and 2.09%. Sodium chloride: 12.7% and 16.38%. Note: In this book the word tahuri appears 21 times compared with only 6 times for tahuli.
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Li Yu-ying and L. Grandvoinnet. 1912. Le soja [The soybean]. Agriculture Pratique des Pays Chauds 12(106):28-38. Jan. See p. 34. Tofu can be made into either non-fermented or fermented cheeses. The fermented cheeses may be of the Gruyre, Roquefort, or Camembert types. Li and Grandvoinnet. 1912. Le soja. p. 101. Li Yu-ying. 1913. U.S. Patent 1,064,841. June 17. Application led Oct. 10, 1911. Method of manufacturing products from soja. The object of this invention is to provide a simple, efcient and economical method of producing a product from soja beans, and from which product it is possible to obtain by adding certain substances a product resembling human or animal milk, and also to obtain fresh or fermented cheese... The coagulated milk is molded and pressed, and cheese of different forms and consistency obtained according to the degree of coagulation or pressure. The cheeses may be eaten fresh or they may be dried. They are salted or not according to the nature of the manufacture... In producing fermented cheese: Roquefort, Permesan, Romatour, Camembert, Gruyre, etc., ferments suitable for the manufacture of those products are employed... 67. Li, Yu-ying; Grandvoinnet, L. 1912. Le soja: Sa culture. Ses usages alimentaires, thrapeutiques, agricoles et industriels [The soybean: Its culture. Its food, therapeutic, agricultural, and industrial uses]. Paris: Augustin Challamel (Rue Jacob 17). 150 p. Illust. Index. 25 cm. Translated into French and expanded from the Chinese edition, published by la Societ Biologique dExtrme-Orient (1910). [151 ref. Fre]
A photo shows the inside of a Chinese bean-curd factory in Manila, with four people, seated on stools, working at a table. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term soja-bean curd or the word toqua, or the word teou fou (or teou-fou) to refer to tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the word tahuri or the word tahuli. There is no suggestion that the product is fermented. However it is salted, and later documents explain that it is pickled / fermented in this salt solution. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Sept. 2006) with the word Soja-bean (or Sojabeans) in the title. Address: 1. Assoc. Prof. of Chemistry, Univ. of the Philippines. From the Lab. of Organic Chemistry, Bureau of Science, Manila, P.I. 66. Product Name: [Fermented Tofu Cheese (Gruyere, Parmesan, Roquefort, or Camembert types)]. Foreign Name: Fromages ferments (Gruyere, Parmesan, Roquefort, or Camembert). Manufacturers Name: Usine de la Caseo-Sojaine. Manufacturers Address: Valles, Colombes (near Asnieres, Seine), northwest of Paris, France. Date of Introduction: 1912. February. New ProductDocumentation: Li, Yu-ying. 1910. Vegetable milk and its derivatives. British Patent 30,275. 5 p. Date of application, 30 Dec. 1910. Accepted 29 Feb. 1912. See p. 2. For obtaining fermented cheese such as roquefort [Roquefort], parmezan [Parmesan], romatour, camambert [Camembert] and gruyere, suitable ferments are employed.
Summary: One of the earliest, most important, inuential, creative, interesting, and carefully researched books ever written about soybeans and soyfoods. Its bibliography on soy was larger than any published prior to that time. It was rst published as a series of eight articles in Agriculture Pratique des Pays Chauds (Bulletin du Jardin Colonial) from September 1911 to April 1912. Before being published as a book, it was revised slightly by adding a table of contents at the back, dividing the material into 5 parts with 19 chapters, and adding several photos (p. 16-17), a world map showing
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU the distribution of soybean cultivation (p. 21), and an interesting 2-page table (p. 66-67). Contents: The soybean: Origin and history. Part I: Soybean culture. 1. Species and varieties of soybeans: Botanical characteristics, species, varieties (Chinese, Japanese, Indian, Indochinese, Hawaiian, USA, European). 2. Needs of the soybean: Climatic, geographical area of the soybean by region worldwide, agrological/soil needs, fertilizers, soil preparation, the place of the soybean in crop rotations. 3. Soybean seeds: Study of seeds (by weight, by germination rate, selection of seeds), time of planting, plant spacing, depth of seeding, rate of seeding per hectare, method of seeding (broadcasting, in rows, in mounds). 4. The soybean during its vegetative stage: Germination, transplanting, types of care (e.g., second dressings), irrigation, owering and fruiting, enemies of the soybean (e.g., insects). 5. Harvest of soybeans: Time for harvest (forage or grain), methods of harvesting (forage or grain; mechanical mower), threshing (use of machine), yields of soybeans (forage and grain in various countries, ratio of seeds harvested to straw is about 1 to 2, yield of nutrients). 6. Fixation of atmospheric nitrogen by soybeans, and improvement of the soil. 7. The soybean in mixed cultures and alternate rows: With corn, cowpeas, rice, sweet sorghum, or millet. Part II: Chemical composition of the soybean. 1. Composition of the plant: Minerals in the leaves and total plant. 2. Study of the seed: Composition, chemical composition, microscopic comparisons, table of analyses by 28 previous researchers, albumins, sugars, starch, dextrin or dextrine, diastase, lipids, ash/minerals. Part III: The soybean as human food and animal feed. 1. The soybean as feed for animals: Green forage and hay. 2. The soybean in human feeding: From the viewpoints of physiology, economy, and gastronomy. The role of soya in special diets: Vegetarianism, remineralization, diabetic, and lactose intolerant. Part IV: Food products based on soya. 1. Soymilk and its derivatives: Soymilk (Methods of manufacture, Chinese and modern at lUsine de la Caso-Sojane, nature and properties [physical and chemical] and composition of the milk, action of ferments and diastases (enzymes) on the milk, uses of the milk, the residue from the soy dairy [okara], condensed soymilk, powdered soymilk, fermented soymilk (ker, yogurt, etc.)), tofu (called Caso-Sojane, or fromage de soya; methods of production, coagulants, yield of tofu, storing tofu, composition and comparison with various meats, digestibility, culinary preparations made from tofu (smoked tofu, tofu pt, tofu sausages)), Soy casein (food and industrial uses). 2. Soy our and its derivatives: Soy our, soy bread, wholemeal bread, other products based on soy our (as biscuits and cakes for diabetic diets). 3. Soy oil and its by-products: Soy oil, physical and chemical properties, usage, residue of the oil mill: the cake, price,
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uses. 4. Use of the soybean as a legume: Whole soybeans (composition and digestibility), soy sprouts (germes de soja), green vegetable soybeans (le soja frais). 5. Fermented soy condiments: Solid condiments from Japan: Tokyo natto (Le Tokio-Natto) and Ping-Ming natto or tao-tche (Le Pingming-Natto; soy nuggets with salt, ginger, orange rind, etc. A similar product is made in China and called tao-tche). Paste condiments: Miso (four types and composition), tao-tjung (Chinese miso). Sauces: Shoyu (its production, varieties, properties, composition), chiang-yu (tsiang-yeou), ketjap [kechap, from Java], tuong (from Annam, with rice or corn), tao-yu (widely used in China and Japan, described by Prinsen Geerligs). 6. Confectionery products: Comparison with chestnuts, roasted soy our to replace chocolate. 7. Soy coffee (with analysis by Kornauth). 8. Special fermented products: Kiu-tsee (a special commercial ferment from Canton described by Thiersant), fermented soymilks. Part V: Industrial uses of soybeans. Oil based: soap, wax candles (bougie), and paint oils. Protein based: sojalithe or soy stone which corresponds to lactite, insulators for electrical apparatus, glue, etc. Conclusion. Addendum (Complment) to Part III, Chapter 1: Soybean straw and stems. Composition of various seeds, including soybeans. Soy our. The cakes from oil mills. Soymilk and the cake from soy dairies (tourteau de laiterie, okara). A very interesting table (p. 66-67, which does not appear in the original 8 articles) shows earlier nutritional analyses of the composition of soybeans by Steuf (from Hungary, Mongolia and China), Schroeder, Caplan, Pellet (from China, Hungary, Etampes), Muntz, Nikitin (black soybeans from Russia, 2 samples), Lipski [Lipskii] (yellow, from Russia), Giljaranski (yellow from Russia, China and Japan; black from China and Japan; green), Knig (Hispida platycarpa black, Tumida yellow, brown and black), Prinsen (white from Java and China), Goessmann, Kellner, USDA, Chemiker Zeitung (white from Java and China, 29 Jan. 1896), Scuff (misomame; miso soybeans), Zulkovski (yellow from China, reddish brown from Mongolia), Institut Agr. de Vienne (Austria; yellow from Vienna, reddish brown from Tirol), Ecole Imp. et Roy dAg. Hong (yellow from Mongolia and China, reddish brown from China), Chez M. Olivier Lecq (from Moravia), Lechartier (Etampes and black), Joulie (yellow), Stingl and Morawski, Bloch (yellow, green, and black), Balland, Cavendish Evelyn Liardet (yellow, brown, green, black, and white), Jardin Colonial (Laos, Tonkin, China), Aufray (Tonkin, Yun-nan), Homes Laboratory (black from China, or white). Photos and illustrations are the same as those referenced in individual sections of the book, except for the following: A eld of soybeans (p. 16). A soybean plant growing in Europe (p. 17). Color illustrations appear facing pages 12, 22, and 64. Address: Li is from Societe Biologique dExtreme-Orient (Chine). Grandvoinnet is from Ingenieur Agricole (G.).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 68. Beltzer, Francis J.-G. 1912. Industries du lactose et de la casine vgtale du soja [Industries producing lactose and soy vegetable casein]. Paris: Librairie Bernard Tignol. 144 p. Undated. (Bibliotheque des Actualites Industrielles, No. 144). [17 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Preface. Part 1: The lactose industry (p. 9-95; 4 chapters). Part II: Vegetable milk, vegetable casein, and products from soybean seeds. Introduction. 1. Vegetable milk (Le lait vgtal; soymilk), microscopic examination of vegetable milk. 2. Vegetable cheese (Le fromage vgtal; tofu). 3. Industrial uses of vegetable casein, proximate analysis of soybean seeds, quantity and dosage determination, the price of soybeans, price of recovery of vegetable casein, industrial production of vegetable casein, cleaning the soybeans, extraction of soy oil, extraction of soy casein. 4. Plan and installation of a factory for processing (10 tons/day of) whole soybeans [to make industrial vegetable casein], estimate and specications for special materials, general materials, the buildings, price of recovery of vegetable casein, industrial uses of vegetable casein. Illustrations (line drawings) show: (1) Microscopic view of soymilk globules. (2) Microscopic view of soya bean tegument (exterior). (3) Schematic drawings (cross section and overview) of a factory for making vegetable casein. The Preface notes that in Indo-China, vegetable milk and vegetable cheese made from the soybean form the base of the peoples nutrition. Cows milk is largely unknown, and the people raise and nourish their children largely with soymilk. Tofu serves equally for the current nourishment of the poor (p. 6). The Introduction (p. 101-07) notes that soy protein is a globulin, called glycinine or vegetable casein (casine vgtale). Osborne & Clapp submitted this substance to acid hydrolysis and found its composition, which is very rich in glutamic acid (p. 102). Soy our (farine de Soja) contains little starch but a large amount of nitrogenous materials, similar to gluten; it is widely used in making bread for diabetics. It can also be used as the basis of foods that are rich in protein and very nutritious, as for colonial or European troops (p. 103). Soy sauce (Soja ferment) is made in Japan from a mixture of soy and wheat (koji). The number of brewers (brasseurs) of soy sauce exceeds 12,000 in the entire Japanese Empire, furnishing more than 2,500,000 hectoliters of this condiment (p. 103). A Chinese factory has been founded on the outskirts of Paris (at Valles, near Colombes) for the production soybased food products (produits alimentaires base de soja). This factory currently makes Caso-sojane [tofu] and the following food products: Soy our (Farine de soja), soy bread (Pain de soja), soy sauce (Sauce de soja), soymilk (Lait de soja), fermented soymilk (Lait de soja ferment), soy cheese [tofu] (Fromage de soja), soy confections (Contures de soja), etc. The Journal, in its issue of 9 Jan.
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1911, under the title Une usine chinoise fonctionee dans la banlieue parisienne [A Chinese factory is operating on the outskirts of Paris] gives some details (p. 106). In our colonies in Indo-China, the indigenous people have long prepared soymilk, tofu, and several other foods. Soymilk is used like regular milk for feeding babies. Soy cheese, when cooked, is analogous to gruyere cheese; fresh soy cheese resembles our goat cheese. Many Europeans are now preoccupied with making the best of the abundant nutritive principles found in the soybean. One can eat green vegetable soybeans (Les fruits verts) like green peas (pois verts). In Annam and Japan a sauce is also made from soybeans; its use has spread from East Asia just like that of tofu (fromage vgtal) (p. 107). The introduction into Europe and France of soyfoods (aliments retirs du Soja), especially soymilk and tofu, will enable us to combat periods of scarcity of animal milk and periods when the prices of certain foods are high. Will the substitution of vegetable casein for milk casein enable us to likewise conserve milk for food use instead of delivering it to industry? (p. 107). Chapter one, Soymilk (p. 108-13), discusses the work of the Japanese chemist T. Katayama (1906) with soymilk and notes that it can be homogenized and condensed. Illustrations show a microscopic view of the globules of soymilk and of okara. The absence of starch in soybeans is a very positive characteristic. Chapter two, Tofu (p. 114-18), notes that in CochinChina, calcium sulfate is called Tchack-kao, and there are three main varieties of tofu: (1) The fermented variety, which is gray or yellow in color, has a piquant taste and resembles Roquefort cheese. (2) The white salted variety resembles goats cheese. (3) The baked (cuite) or smoked variety resembles gruyere cheese and keeps as well as the salted variety. Chapter three, Industrial uses of vegetable casein (p. 119-32), observes that the oil in soybeans must rst be removed by pressing or extraction. A table (p. 120) gives the chemical composition of soybeans from Laos and Cochin China, Tonkin, and China and Manchuria. They contain 17.64 to 18.28% oil. In Indochina a food which Beltzer calls La casine vgtale en lames (vegetable casein in sheets = yuba) has a rather high oil contentabout 2528%. There follows a section (p. 126-32) which contains details on industrial production of soy casein. Chapter four, Design and installation of a factory for processing soybeans into industrial vegetable casein, describes each piece of equipment and its cost, itemizes the costs of general and special materials plus, buildings and working capital. Also includes a detailed schematic diagram (p. 136-37) with three production lines, and both top and side views. Finally, it lists expenses, income, and prot (p. 139). The last section, applications of industrial vegetable casein, includes paints, paper coatings, silk and articial textiles, Galalith, and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU waterproong of textiles and straw hats. The book contains no bibliography, few footnotes, and no mention of the work of Li Yu-yingfrom whom the author appears to have borrowed much. Note: Although this book is undated, all major sources (except a Seattle Public Library bibliography) give its date as 1912. Address: Ingenieur-Chemiste-Expert, Professeur de Chimie Industrielle. 69. Giles, Herbert Allen. 1912. A Chinese-English dictionary. 2nd ed., revised & enlarged. 2 vols. Shanghai, China: Kelly & Walsh, Ltd.; London: Bernard Quaritch. 33 x 26 cm. Reprinted in 1964, 1978. [4 ref. Eng; chi] Summary: These two massive volumes, each weighing about 9 lb, contain more than 1,800 pages and 13,848 Chinese characters. Contents of Vol. I: Part I. By the same author (25 books). Dedication. Preface. Extracts from preface to rst edition. Dialects (The romanized pronunciation of each character is given in Cantonese, Hakka, Foochow, Wnchow, Ningpo, Peking, Mid-China, Yangchow, and Ssuchuan {Szechwan} dialects, as well as in Korean, Japanese, and Annamese, each being distinguished by its initial letter). Tables: Insignia of ofcial rank, the family names, the Chinese dynasties, topographical, the calendar, miscellaneous (the Chinese digits, the Chinese decimal system). The 214 radicals. Radical index. Part II. A Chinese-English dictionary (p. 1-1711, in two volumes). Examples of soy-related characters: Chiang (p. 149, No. 1220). A soy made by mixing salt with bean our. Sauce. Fourteen compounds using this character are given, including: Bean sauce, soy. Pickled bean curd. Bean sauce. Soy is of two kinds, the clear and the thick. Dry relishes. Soy [sauce] coloura dark reddish drab. He wont use money for vinegar to buy soy. Chih (p. 249, No. 1996). Salted fruits, etc., dried and used as relishes. Four compounds incl.: Salted beans. Soy, sauce. Fu (p. 458, No. 3686). Rotten; putrid; worthless. Eleven compounds and sayings include: Bean curd, see No. 11,417. Bean curd ofcialsa term of contempt applied to certain of the poorer classes of ofcial servants who are compelled to feed largely on this cheap food. Also explained as abby or unenergetic ofcials. A Mongol name for cheese. A kind of milk made from beans (milk + fu) [Note: Probably fermented tofu]. Huang (p. 635, No. 5124). Yellow. Compounds: Yellow beans. Mao (p. 955, No. 7,679). Hair, down, feather. But the word Maodou (Hairy beans) = edamame does not appear here. Ta (p. 1,294-96, No. 10,470). Great. But the word Great bean = soybean does not appear here. Tou (p. 1,412, No. 11,417). Beans; pulse. See also No. 11,412. Thirty compounds, incl.: Bean-sprouts. Bean-curd. A
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cheap restaurant (a bean-curd restaurant). Like making bean curdvery tedious. A tongue like a knife, but a bean-curd heart (soft). Bean-cake. Bean oil. Big bean, black bean, or yellow bean = the soja or soya bean (Glycine hispida, Max.), used for making bean-curd, soy, oil, etc. Ground-nuts. Yu (p. 1,661, No. 13,409). Oil, fat, grease. 45 compounds incl. Oil, salt, soy, and vinegar = condiments generally. Sesamum-seed oil. Linseed. Wood oil. An oil factory. Oil dregs. But bean-oil = soybean oil does not appear here. Note 1 (see p. vii): Other earlier important Chinese dictionaries are: Morrison (1819, English). Medhurst (1843, English). Williams (1874, American). Giles (1892, English). Giles lived 1845-1935. Note 2. Unfortunately, the pronunciation of the compounds is not given (as in Mandarin). Address: Prof. of Chinese, Univ. of Cambridge, Cambridge, England; and sometimes H.B.M. Consul at Ningpo. 70. Li, Yu-ying. 1913. Method of manufacturing products from soja. U.S. Patent 1,064,841. June 17. 3 p. Application led 10 Oct. 1911. Summary: Li describes himself as a subject of the Emperor of China, residing at Valles, in France. The object of this invention is to provide a simple, efcient and economical method of producing a product from soja beans, and from which product it is possible to obtain by adding certain substances a product resembling human or animal milk, and also to obtain fresh or fermented cheese, milk in the form of powder and concentrated milk, fermented milk, sauces, preserves, etc. The manufacture of this milk comprises a series of operations viz., the cleaning and decorticating of the beans, which are effected in the ordinary manner, the grinding of the said grain previously mixed with a certain quantity of water, the passing of the crude product through a ltering press, from which the liquid, which is of a milky color, runs off to cool through a lter and passes thence into a boiler heated with a water bath, where it is pasteurized or sterilized, and from which it is removed, ready to be delivered for consumption as milk, or for use in the manufacture of the products mentioned above. The apparatus necessary for this manufacture is illustrated in the accompanying drawings by a longitudinal sectional elevation. Lis signature, written Yu Ying Li, is just below the mechanical drawing. A detailed description of the ingenious equipment and process follows. The ground paste is mixed with water; a pump forces it under pressure into the ltering press... The slurry is cooked in a boiler or digester which is actually a steam-jacketed kettle; there it is heated to a variable temperature for the purpose of pasteurization or sterilization. Concerning the okara: When the operation is nished, the grain [okara] is removed from the lter-press and now forms cakes which can be utilized for feeding human beings
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (they are in that case dried and reduced to powder). They may also be used for feeding cattle, and, even if these cakes are greatly exhausted, they form a very good nitrated manure, after undergoing certain treatment; drying and dressing. The soja milk contains more casein and less lactose and butter than human or animal milk, but by reducing its quantity of casein by adding certain matters a product is obtained resembling human and animal milk. With this milk fresh or fermented cheese can be made as desired. In making fresh cheese [tofu], the milk is curdled or coagulated by means of magnesia salts, organic acids and ferments, rennet or lactic ferments. The coagulated milk is molded and pressed, and cheese of different forms and consistency obtained according to the degree of coagulation or pressure. The cheeses may be eaten fresh or they may be dried. They are salted or not according to the nature of the manufacture... In producing fermented cheese: Roquefort, Permesan, Romatour, Camembert, Gruyre, etc., ferments suitable for the manufacture of those products are employed... The fermented milk is obtained by using ferments such as the ferments employed in producing fermented milks kephir [ker], yoghourt [yogurt], koumis [koumiss], etc. These are the Saccharomyces cerevisiae, Dispora caucasica, Maya bulgare, etc., and the manufacture is effected by modifying the said milk through the addition of sugar (glucose, levulose, etc.), and more particularly lactose. The casein derived from Soja is manufactured either from the milk itself obtained as indicated or with the cakes remaining after the extraction of the oil or fatty matter of the soja beans... In order to prepare it the soja milk is coagulated. The coagulation having been effected, the product is dried, asepticized or not, ground or not, and may be employed as an alimentary or as an industrial product. This latter product may be employed for all purposes; paste, bedding paper, manufacture of the objects, etc. the same as animal casein. To the casein thus obtained chemical products such as borax, oxid of zinc [zinc oxide], magnesia, gelatin, etc., may be added in different proportions in order to obtain solid casein. It is also possible to produce sauce with soja milk the fermentation of which is effected by means of special ferments such as sojaobacille and the acetomyces. This sauce is more or less salted with chlorid of sodium [sodium chloride] and an addition may be made of spices; pepper, clove, nutmeg, piment*, etc. The sauce having been made may be concentrated or dried by heating. Soja preserves may also be obtained with soja milk slightly thickened with sugar. In this case, the soja grains are cooked before being ground and may be mixed with or added to dry fruits, chestnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, cocoa, etc. Note 1. This is the worlds 2nd earliest patent seen (June 2011) concerning a fermented cheese made from soja, and also the earliest U.S. soymilk patent. Note 2. Websters Third New International Dictionary (1963) denes piment as wine avored with spice and honey. It denes pimento as a synonym for allspice. Address: Valles, France.
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71. Independent (The).1914. Milk and cheese from the soya bean. 78:487. June 15. Summary: A large concern known as the Synthetic Milk Syndicate, Ltd. is about to establish a factory in Liverpool, at which soya milk will be made according to the process of Dr. Fritz Goessel, of Essen, Germany. A detailed description of the process follows. It is expected that this milk will be retailed in England at 4 cents a quart. It is claimed to have the same nutritive value as natural milk, and will be free of the characteristic oily avor which makes other soya bean products unpalatable to most people who have not acquired the tastes of the Orient... Treated with a mineral salt or an acid, which acts the part of rennet, vegetable milk can be converted into cheese of several varieties. In Indo-China, where the soya milk industry has assumed large proportions, three principal kinds of cheese are made: a fermented variety with a taste suggesting Roquefort; a white salted variety, resembling goats milk cheese; and a cooked or smoked variety, like Gruyre. Note: This is also the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word smoked (not including smokd) in connection with tofu. Address: England. 72. Meyer, Frank N. 1916. Re: Chinese soybean cheese. In: Letters of Frank N. Meyer. 4 vols. Compiled by USDA Bureau of Plant Introduction. 2444 p. Typed. Summary: Meyer wrote all these letters from China to Fairchild or Dorsett at USDA in Washington, DC. Page 2246-47 (21 Nov. 1916 from Peking). Parcel No. 125c, contains rst quality Chinese soybean cheese; please taste a little on the point of a knife; it is extremely appetising. Mr. [William] Morse of Forage Crops [USDA] wants it and asked me for some samples of Chinese bean cheese in May 1916. I wonder whether the fermenting organism is a new one possibly, that can be made to work in other substances than beancurd. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (April 2001) concerning USDAs work with fermented soyfoods. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term bean cheese or soybean cheese or Chinese soybean cheese or beancheese to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. Page 2282, 2284 (12 Feb. 1917 from Peking). I am sending tomorrow, via Diplomatic Pouch, one small tin case, well soldered up and containing 33 small squares of old bean cheese... Mr. Morse again may be the right man to give it to. The quality is not as ne as that of sample 125b,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU but still, it is passable. There must be several kinds of this soft cheese here in this land and Ill be on the lookout for them when traveling about. My interpreter informs me that in summertime one has to keep this cheese perpetually under a layer of sesame-oil, otherwise maggots get in and eat it all up. Page 2289, 2291-92 (23 March 1917 from Ichang). Well, I am also busy in getting details about Chinese beancheese making; it is getting to be a very interesting process in which fungi and personal experience play their parts. Page 2316, 2321 (6 June 1917 from Hankow, Hupeh). No, the bean-cheese you tasted was not any more spoiled than Limburger or Camembert. Page 2328 (14 June 1917 from Hankow to David Fairchild). It certainly surprised me agreeably that you and your guests dared to eat that bean cheese after its long journeyand that it was found to be a good appetizer. I hope my fotos [photos] and letters relating to the making of same have reached you since and that Mr. Morse can do something with this new food product. Page 2338 (20 June 1917 from Hankow to Fairchild). In my descriptions about the making of bean cheese I have used the word foo instead of fu since the last can be pronounced fyu, as in future, etc. I also mentioned that ground-up capsules of Illicium anisatum are used; now I am not sure whether I. anisatum and I. verum are synonyms; I saw, however, that the last name has been given to the true star-aniseed, which is the one the Chinese are using and which is said to come both from Kwantung [probably Kwangtung province in southeast China] and from Szechuan. Page 2343 (23 June 1917 from Hankow to Mr. Stuntz). Im glad the bean-cheese was so well received. Page 2355, 2358 (27 July 1917 from Hankow). Meyer lists samples he is sending to Mr. Morse and the Bureau of Chemistry: Fermented rice, used in coloring bean cheese red. Bean cheese, one white and one red, each in a little jar. Page 2361, 2363-64 (1 Aug. 1917 from Hankow). I am certainly very much interested to hear that Mrs. [Yamei] Kin has obtained a commission from the Bureau of Chemistry to investigate the bean cheese industry... a subject like this is too fascinating to leave it alone. I do not think Mrs. Kin will nd that bacteria play much of a role in this bean cheese affair; it seems a mould does the work... It pleases me that you and almost everybody to whom you served the bean cheese, liked it... Did Mrs. Kin put you in touch with a New York rm of Chinese products where this bean cheese can be obtained? Page 2369-70 (8 Sept. 1917 from Kingmen, Hupeh). I am quite pleased to hear in your letter of July 5, 1917 that my soy bean-cheese samples have really created so much interest. Mr. Menderson wrote me a long letter on this problem; I cannot give him, however, much more information in my report to Mr. Morse and on the photos.
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[Note 3. This report has apparently been lost.] Beancurd and beanmilk always taste beany. The cheese, however, has lost this unpleasant characteristic. If soft beancurd is beaten up with sugar, it also improves much in avor. I have not heard from Mrs. Kin yet; she surely will get along without my assistance, for she knows the ropes here in her own land. Page 2407, 2409 (25 Oct. 1917 from Kingmen, Hupeh). Yes, Ill get various varieties of bean cheese as soon as I can lay my hands on novelties. Location: University of California at Davis, Special Collections SB108 A7M49. Address: USDA Plant Explorer. 73. Piper, C.V.; Morse, W.J. 1916. The soy bean, with special reference to its utilization for oil, cake, and other products. USDA Bulletin No. 439. 20 p. Dec. 22. [9 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Soy beans in Manchuria. Soy beans in Japan. Soy beans in Europe. Soy beans in the United States. Methods of oil extraction. Soybean meal as human food. Soy-bean meal as stock feed. Soy-bean meal as fertilizer. Uses of soy-bean oil. Analysis of important varieties of soy beans. Possibility of developing a manufacturing industry with American-grown soy beans. Analyses of important varieties of soy beans (p. 16-17):... In determining the range in the oil and protein contents of over 500 varieties grown in the variety tests at Arlington Farm, Virginia, the percentage of oil was found to range from 11.8 to 22.5 [Tokyo had 20.7% and Biloxi had 20.3% oil] and of protein from 31 to 46.9 [Chiquita had 46.9% protein]... At the present time the Mammoth Yellow variety is the most generally grown throughout the South and is the one used in the production of oil. The yellow-seeded varieties, which are most suitable for the production of oil and meal, contain the highest percentage of oil. Environment has been found to be a potent factor in the percentage of oil in the same variety. Considerable differences occur in oil content when soybeans are grown in different localities. The Haberlandt variety grown in Mississippi, North Carolina, Missouri, Virginia, and Ohio gave the following percentages of oil, respectively: 25.4, 22.8, 19.8, 18.3, 17.5; while the Mammoth Yellow variety grown in Alabama, South Carolina, Tennessee, North Carolina, and Virginia gave, respectively, 21.2, 19.6, 19.5, 18.4, and 18.8. Variety tests conducted in various parts of the country indicate a higher percentage of oil with the same variety for southern-grown seed. Similar results have been obtained in Manchuria, the North Manchurian beans showing an oil content of 15 to 17 percent and the South Manchurian beans from 18 to 20 percent. Photos (both by Frank N. Meyer) show: (1) A eet of junks carrying soy beans to Newchwang, Manchuria. (2) Coolies at Newchwang, carrying loads of soy beans from junks to big stacks. An outline map of the USA (p. 8) shows the area to which the soy bean is especially adapted for growing for
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU oil production. The area of double hatching shows that it is especially well suited to the Deep South. The northern boundary of the area were it is less certain of protable production includes the southern one-third of Ohio, Indiana, and Illinois, and most of Missouri. On the west, the less certain area includes the eastern one-third of Nebraska, Oklahoma, and Texas. Tables show: 1. Exports of soy beans, bean cake, and bean oil from the principal ports of South Manchuria (Antung, Dairen, Newchwang), 1909 to 1913, inclusive. 2. Quantity and value of exports of soy beans and soy-bean oil from Japan to foreign countries, 1913 and 1914. The countries are: China, United Kingdom, France, Germany, Belgium, United States, Hawaii, British America, Australia, other countries. 3. Quantity of imports of soy beans, soybean cake, and soy-bean oil from Dairen, Manchuria, into Japan, 1911 to 1914, inclusive. The greatest imports were of soy-bean cake, followed by soy beans, with only small amounts of oil. (4) Quantity and value of imports of soy beans, bean cake, and bean oil by European countries, 1912 to 1914, inclusive. The countries are: Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Italy, Netherlands, Russia, Sweden, United Kingdom. In 1912, the UK imported the most soy beans, while Netherlands imported the most cake and oil. (5) Quantity and value of imports of soy beans, soy-bean cake (Footnote: Includes bean cake [perhaps fermented tofu or canned regular tofu], or bean stick [perhaps yuba], miso, or similar products, with duty, 40 per cent) and soy-bean oil into the United States, 1910 to 1915, inclusive. The quantity of soy bean imports was greatest in 1915 with 3.837 million lb. The quantity of soy-bean cake imports was greatest in 1913 with 7.005 million lb. The quantity of soy-bean oil imports was greatest in 1911 with 41.106 million lb. Prior to 1914 soy beans were not classied separately in the customs returns (p. 9). (6) Composition of soy-bean our in comparison with wheat our, corn meal, rye our, Graham our, and whole-wheat our. (7) Value of a short ton of soy-bean cake and other oil cakes in the principal European countries (Incl. cottonseed, linseed, peanut {Rusque}). Countries: Germany, United Kingdom, Netherlands, Denmark, Sweden. (8) Analyses [nutritional composition] of soy-bean meal and other important oil meals. (Incl. Cottonseed, linseed (old and new processes), peanut (decorticated), sunower seed). (9) Fertilizing constituents [nitrogen, ammonia, phosphoric acid, potash] of soy beans, soy-bean meal, and cottonseed meal. (10) Analyses for protein and oil of important varieties of soy beans grown at Arlington Farm (Virginia), Newark (Delaware), and Agricultural College (Mississippi). The varieties are: Mammoth, Hollybrook, Manchu, Haberlandt, Medium Yellow, Ito San, Chiquita, Tokyo, Lexington, Guelph, Black Eyebrow, Shanghai, Peking, Wilson,
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Biloxi, Barchet, Virginia. Note 1. At the present time, the Mammoth Yellow variety is most generally grown throughout the South and is the one used in the production of oil (p. 16). (11) Acreage, production, and value per ton of cottonseed in the boll-weevil states. Since the boll weevil rst entered Texas in 1892, it has steadily decreased production of cottonseed. The soy beans offers a good replacement. (12) Comparative prices per ton of cottonseed and soy beans on the European market, 1911 to 1914, inclusive. Soy beans are usually slightly more expensive. Note 2. This is the earliest published document seen that contains soy-related photos by Frank. N. Meyer. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen in which William Morse describes soy milk, or mentions natto, or correctly mentions tofu. Note 4. This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2004) that mentions the soybean varieties Biloxi or Lexington. Address: 1. Agrostologist in Charge; 2. Scientic Asst. Forage-Crop Investigations, USDA, Washington, DC. 74. New York Times Magazine.1917. Woman off to China as government agent to study soy bean. Dr. Kin will make report for United States on the most useful food of her native land. June 10. p. 9. (New York Times section 6). Summary: The New York Times Magazine is part of the Sunday New York Times and may be simply cited as such. Dr. Yamei Kin is the only Chinese woman with a physicians diploma from an American college, the Womans Medical College of New York. She left New York a few days ago for the orient to gather data on that humble but nutritious food [the soy bean] for the Department of Agriculture at Washington. During World War I, new demands are being placed on America to feed its citizens and allies. The appointment of Dr. Kin marks the rst time the United States Government has given so much authority to a Chinese. That it is a woman in whom such extraordinary condence is now reposed detracts nothing from the interest of the story. China was the rst country to invent paper, printing, gunpowder, porcelain, chess, playing cards, and silk. And now Dr. Kin is going to see if her native land can teach the United States how to develop a taste for the soy bean in its numerous disguises... The world is in need of tissue-building foods, said Dr. Kin, and cannot very well afford to wait to grow animals in order to obtain the necessary percentage of protein. Waiting for an animal to become big enough to eat is a long proposition. First you feed grain to a cow, and, nally, you get a return in protein from milk and meat. A terribly high percentage of the energy is lost in transit from grain to cow to a human being. The statement is frequently made that the Orientals live almost exclusively upon rice, eating little meat. It is not generally known, perhaps, that deciency in protein is made up by the consumption of large quantities of products of the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU soy bean, which take the place in our dietary of meat and other costly nitrogenous foods. They are eaten in some form by rich and poor at almost every meal. Instead of taking the long and expensive method of feeding grain to an animal until the animal is ready to be killed and eaten, in China we take a short cut by eating the soy bean, which is protein, meat, and milk in itself. We do not eat the plain bean in China at all. It is never eaten there as a vegetable, but in the complex food productsnatto, tofu, miso, yuba, shoyu, and similar dishes. The chief reason why people can live so cheaply in China and yet produce for that nation a man power so tremendous that this country must pass an Exclusion act against them is that they eat beans instead of meat. She then describes how to make tofu. Soup noodles are made out of bean curd. Entres made of bean curd are served with cream mushroom sauce or a hot Spanish tomato sauce. A salad of bean sprouts, accompanied by cheesethe cheese [fermented tofu] a cross between Camembert and Roquefort, and made from the soy beanis very nutritious and palatable. Americans do not know how to use the soy bean. It must be made attractive or they will not take to it. It must taste good. That can be done. We make from it a delightful chocolate pudding. A black soy bean sauce we use as a foundation for sweetmeats in China. Note: None of the various Chinese food experts whom we have asked can understand what Dr. Kin means by the previous sentence. None has ever heard of a black soy bean sauce that is used as a foundation for confections or sweets in China. The two black soy bean sauces made in China, from either soy nuggets or jiang, are both salty. (WRS Jan. 2009). Nevertheless: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term black soy bean sauce to refer to a kind of sauce made from soybeans. The soy bean contains practically no starch, which means that it is a most desirable food for diabetics, and also, of course, for vegetarians. Buddhists kill no animalsthey thrive by making a specialty of the soy bean, which, by the way, is already being used in the French Army. They nd there that soy bean mixed with our makes a good cracker, more nourishing than any other cracker. The Chinese do not know what worn-out soil is. Some places are so fertile and are cultivated with so much care and skill that three or four crops a year are regularly gathered... it is very common to see two crops in the same eld at the same time... The Chinese have a passion for fertilizing the soil... Dr. Kin is a graduate of the Womans Medical College of New York, and her great interests have always been domestic sanitation, civic hygiene, the conservation of life, and questions of nutrition. She is the head of the Imperial Peiyang Womans Medical School and Hospital, near Peking... the Imperial Infant Asylum in Tien-tsin, the Widows Home, and the Girls Refuge all come under
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her supervision as head of the womans hospital work of Northern China. She will return to this country in October, bringing to our Government the detailed results of her study of the uses of the soy bean as a foodstuff needed by this country and by the world in the campaign of food raising and conservation. An illustration (line drawing) shows a portrait of Dr. Yamei Kin. Note 2. This is the earliest published document seen (July 2000) that mentions Dr. Yamei Kin. Frank N. Meyer wrote letters about her in 1911 and 1916. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2001) that mentions a soy pudding (a delightful chocolate pudding made from bean curd). 75. Chan, Shiu Wong. 1917. The Chinese cook book. New York, NY: Frederick A. Stokes Company. 201 p. 20 x 13 cm. Summary: Subtitle: Containing more than one hundred recipes for everyday food prepared in the wholesome Chinese way, and many recipes of unique dishes peculiar to the Chineseincluding Chinese Pastry, Stove Pastries, and Chinese Candies. Contains 151 recipes. Page 15: Chinese white cheese (CC = Chinese characters given). Foo yue [fermented tofu]. (a) Cut bean cake [tofu], made of Chinese white beans, into half-inch squares inch thick. (b) Put into a jar provided with an airtight cover, the size of the jar depending upon the amount to be made. (c) Fill the jar full of Fun Wine. (d) Salt to taste. (e) Cover air tight and put away for not less than two weeks. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Foo yue to refer to fermented tofu. Page 16: Chinese red cheese (CC). Noum yue [red fermented tofu]. For this the bean cake is made of Chinese red beans [azuki?]: (a) Wrap up the cakes in a piece of cloth in any desired size. Put pressure on top for 5 days. (b) Take off the weight. Then the cloth. Scrape off the mold on top. (c) Place in a jar. Fill the jar full with Fun Wine, and add plenty of salt. (d) Cover air tight, and set away for not less than 2 weeks; the longer, the better, provided the jar is kept air-tight. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Noum yue to refer to fermented tofu. Page 147: Bean cake. Do fu. This is a most delicious dish for its price. Many people in Paris can tell you how delicious it is, for there is a factory in Paris that makes millions of dollars each year by manufacturing this cake. The process of making bean cake is really so complicated that it would require a separate volume to describe it. Put white beans in water for a few hours. Then grind in a water stone grinder. Cook for 5 hours with calcium powder. Let it lter through a cloth and run into a cup or bowl. When cool it becomes solid. Tie this in a piece of cloth and boil. This is
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU called bean cake [Note: the above process, which does not even call for soybeans, will not make tofu!]. 76. Lyman, Benjamin Smith. 1917. Vegetarian diet and dishes. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Ferris & Leach. 416 p. See p. 155-58. Index. Portrait. 21 cm. [3 ref] Summary: Discusses the physiological, economical, and ethical advantages of a vegetarian diet, with recipes and principles of preparation. The author, who wrote mostly about geology, lived 1835-1920. A large table titled Composition of foods (p. 44-47) gives the percentage of protein, fat, carbohydrates, and ash (on a dry basis) for many foods, including natto, fresh tofu, soy beandried, Swiss miso, soy [shoyu] No. 1 and 2, and white miso (all gures from Abel 1900), plus peanutsdried. In the chapter titled Foods of vegetable origin (p. 141-267), the section on Pulse (p. 152-78) contains a subsection titled Soy bean (p. 155-58), which begins: The soy bean of China and Japan is perhaps the most important food plant there, next to rice. The bean is eaten to a small extent boiled like other beans; but is generally elaborated into a variety of products remarkably rich in protein and fat and therefore going well with rice so decient in those constituents. The following soy-related subjects are discussed, based largely on the writings of others: Soy sauce (Abel), natto (Abel), miso (R. Takahashi), tofu (Abel), aburage, koritofu, substitutes for milk and cheese, and nutritional comparison with eggs, milk and cheese (Abel, Atwater). The section titled Substitutes for milk and cheese states: The Chinese in Paris [probably Li Yu-ying] have been urging the culture of the soy bean. The seeds, when boiled, mashed, and pressed, yield both milk and cheese; if thinned with water, a very good substitute for animal milk; and if coagulated with mineral salt, a cheese that is usually eaten fresh, though it may be preserved by salting or smoking, after being cooked. Three varieties of the cheese are common in the oriental markets; a fermented kind [fermented tofu], white, yellow, or gray in color, with a piquant taste, like roquefort; a salty and white kind, like goats milk cheese; and a third kind, smoky and resembling Gruyre. The soy cheese costs about a ftieth as much as animal cheese; and in nutritive value, like the vegetable milk, compares very favorably with the ordinary products of the cow. (Phila. Ledger, Sept. 27, 1906). Note 1. No such article in the Philadelphia Ledger or the Public Ledger (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania), of this date, can be found. Note 2. This is the earliest U.S. document seen (Dec. 2008) that mentions smoked tofu. The section on peanuts (p. 158-62) includes roasted peanuts, peanut butter, peanut taffy, and Terralac or peanutmilk (here rst published). Details on how to make peanutmilk at home are given, followed by many recipes for its
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useeach preceded by the word Terralac. Thus: Terralac custards, Terralac punch. Terralac cream, salad dressing, sauce, cream sauce, creams, blanc-mange [blancmange], cream pie, Bavarian cheese, Terralac in soup, Ice-Terralac, or peanut ice-cream, peanut soup, salted peanuts. There are also sections on the cowpea (p. 163+), almonds (p. 263-65; incl. salted almonds, marchpane, macaroons, nougat or almond cake, almond milk, orgeat syrup, burnt almonds, replacing almonds), vegetable-gelatine (p. 384-87, incl. carrageen or carragheen [carrageenan], Irish moss, and kanten), sesame oil or gingelly oil (p. 388), peanut oil or groundnut oil (p. 388), almond oil (p. 389), and sago and sago recipes (p. 390-91, incl. three sago puddings). Note: Merriam-Websters Collegiate Dictionary (1998) denes orgeat (a word rst used in 1754) as a sweet almond-avored nonalcoholic syrup used as a cocktail ingredient or food avoring. 77. Davis County Clipper (Utah).1918. Makes new kind of meat. Feb. 26. p. 7. Summary: On the top oor of 641 Washington street, New York city, is one of the most interesting kitchens in the world, presided over by a Chinese woman doctor. Dr. Yamei Kin, who recently traveled to China for six months to study the soy bean, says that its protein is equal to that of meat. A sort of vegetable cheese [tofu], it is a replacer of meat and forms no acid; it is an alkaline form of protein. The salty black sauce [soy sauce] served on top of chop suey, chow mein and other dishes in Chinese restaurants, is made from soy beans. Dr. Kin can make from soybeans a roquefort cheese [fermented tofu] that looks and smells like the real thing. In all the world there is not a more misunderstood vegetable than the soy bean, says Doctor Kin. An illustration shows Dr. Yamei Kin standing, holding a plate in her left hand. 78. British Medical Journal.1918. A vegetable milk. i(2889):430. April 13. Summary: From a correspondent: In these days of agalactia [failure of the secretion of milk in mammals] any reasonable substitute for milk is certain of a welcome, so that particular interest attaches to the soy bean, an alimentary plant grown on a very large scale in China, and imported into this country [Britain] by hundreds of thousands of tons annually for the sake of the oil it contains, which is utilized in the manufacture of soap, margarine, etc. More interesting from the alimentary point of view is the fact that it can be made to yield a substitute for milk, which in respect of appearance and composition so nearly approximates the familiar article as to be wellnigh indistinguishable therefrom. The process is simple. Five ounces of the bean are soaked overnight in a quart of cold water; it is then coarsely ground, mixed with the water in which it has been soaking, and ltered through muslin [coarse cotton fabric]. The result
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU is a milky uid with a rather strong smell of haricot bean, which disappears after it has been raised to boiling point. Infants take it readily, and, mixed with tea or coffee, the taste is imperceptible. Fresh soy bean milk has a fairly acid reaction; it is quite homogeneous under the microscope, and its physical properties are those of cows milk; rennet causes it to curdle, lactic acid germs cause it to undergo lactic acid fermentation. When boiled it rises like ordinary milk and forms a pellicle [yuba] on the surface. Its composition is: Casein 3.13 per cent., fats 9.89, but it lacks carbohydrates, a shortcoming which can easily be remedied. As the fatty constituent is an oil, butter cannot be made from soy bean milk, but it can be made to provide cheese (120 grams of the bean yields 184 grams of cheese), and the cheese [fermented tofu] can be made to resemble any of the popular cheeses in the market; it is merely a question of employing the proper avouring ferment. Soy-bean milk can be retailed at 3 centimes a litre. The residue, after making milk, is still very rich in alimentary principles, and can be worked up into very palatable almond cakes and biscuits. Being practically free from starch, these cakes are especially suited for consumption by diabetics. Roasted, the bean provides a colourable imitation of coffee, just as do barley and oats, to what a satisfactory degree only those who make use of these substitutes will understand. A practical idea of its alimentary value may be formed by contrasting the cost of this as compared with other albumins: 100 grams of albumin, at before-the-war prices, would costfrom egg 1s. 8d. [1 shilling 8 pence], from meat 1s. 4d., from pork 8d, dried peas 3d., and from soy bean 2d. The bean contains four times as much mineral constituents as meat, and is twice as rich in phosphoric acid. A table compares the nutritional composition of soy beans (water plus 5 nutrients) with lentils, haricot beans, peas, and broad beans. 79. Layosa y Makalindong, Pedro. 1918. Field tests of soy beans. Philippine Agriculturist 6(10):276-91. June. Based on his thesis, College of Agriculture, No. 92. [8 ref] Summary: Of the leguminous crops in the Philippines the soy bean is the only one of which the nished products are used. These nished products, the most important of which are the [salt pickled] soy bean curd (tahuri) and soy bean sauce (toyo) have been long known all over the islands. In spite of this evidence of its economic importance, the crop has been given but very little attention by Filipino farmers. The eld tests were carried out in the Philippines. The author mentions that soy beans are used in China, Japan, and other countries as a substitute for meat. The author has carried on the breeding work with soybeans begun by Maceda in the Philippines to determine their commercial value and to nd the varieties best suited for the rainy and the dry seasons, respectively. It was found
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that the selections from the variety Kedilcie Wit grown during the rainy season and strains from Amis bean grown during the dry season produced the highest yields. Address: Philippines. 80. Bean-Bag (The) (St. Louis, Missouri).1918. Chinese woman doctor favors soy beans. 1(3):28. Aug. Summary: Dr. Yamei Kin, a Chinese woman doctor of New York City, recently spent six months in China, studying and analyzing the soy bean. Dr. Kin says that the protein contained in the soy bean is equal to that of meat, and is of great value to persons who cannot safely eat meat. It is a replacer of meat, a sort of vegetable cheese. It forms no acid. It is an alkaline form of protein. There are several varieties of soy beans, says Dr. Kin. They look like dried peas, and taste like pebbles. Combined with hash or any form of meat leavings, it forms a wonderful food for diabetics, as the curd contains no starch. When you eat chop suey, chow mein and other dishes in Chinese restaurants, the salty black sauce [soy sauce] served with the food is made of soy beans. Excellent cheese [tofu] can be made from soy beans, according to Dr. Kin. She says she can make roquefort cheese [fermented tofu] that smells and looks like the real thing. She also says that when the public becomes educated to the soy bean it will take its place at the head of the procession of American products. In all the world there is not a more misunderstood vegetable than the soy bean, says Dr. Kin. 81. MacDougall, Sarah. 1918. Introducing to America an entirely new foodThe soy bean: Dr. Yamei Kin. Bean-Bag (The) (St. Louis, Missouri) 1(5):17-19. Oct. Summary: From St. Louis Post-Dispatch Sunday Magazine: Soy beans! Once I tried to cook them. After that I never wanted to hear any more about them. But that was before I was invited to a soy bean luncheon in a Greenwich Village apartment. Whenever anyone said soy beans, I would recall that bowl of pebbles and then an unspeakably unpalatable mass of stuff that had to be thrown away. But now! As long as I live soy beans will seem like a symbol of pleasant sensations inside and out. I must tell you about that luncheon. I went the other day to see Dr. Yamei Kin, a charming Chinese woman, who is giving her time and talents to the Government to help solve the food problem. Her specialty is Oriental food, especially soy beans, and she has been spending the summer showing how that food can be adapted to Occidental appetites. I found her in a blue silk kimono and a big white apron, hustling about the kitchen of the United States Department of Agriculture Laboratory in New York. The place looked as if somebody had just milked the cows and brought in the milk pails. On the oor near the stove were two 12-quart pails lled with warm milk. Dr.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Kin was starting to make curds and whey. I watched her put a couple of spoonsful of uid into each pail and saw the milk curdle in the good old way. Then the Chinese boy helper strained the stuff through an aluminum strainer and cheesecloth. They were going to make cheese. The Chinese lad had just nished milking the soy beans before I came in. That may sound queer to a mind that doesnt orientate toward those beans. But its all very simple. If we knew as much as we ought to know about soy beans there wouldnt need to be any cattle or grazing lands or winter fodder. Because soy beans are ready to supply meat and milk and butter and cheese and all the rest of it. Dr. Kin says so. And there are rows of jars and bottles on shelves and tables in that kitchen to prove it. Besides, there was a soy bean luncheon. The beans from which the milk had been extracted were soaked the night before. In the morning the Chinese lad put them through the mill, which is part of the kitchen equipment. It looks primitive, being made of two huge pieces of granite, imported from China. In its homeland this mill is worked by coolies, in New York by electricity. When the grist comes out of the mill it is strained. That was the stuff that lled those two pails. Dr. Kin told me that in China people eat the curds and cheese in their natural state. Here, however, she is making that cheese a base for a series of camouage experiments. We made ours into sh for dinner last night, said a man from a nearby laboratory, who comes in every day to nd out whatever happens to be new about soy beans. How was it? asked Dr. Kin. Great, said the man. My wife fried a couple of sh and then fried some soy bean cheese in the gravy, and, honest to goodness, I couldnt tell which was which. It has a way of absorbing the avor of whatever its cooked with, he explained to me. We had ours with chops, remarked another laboratory expert who joined us. His name was Mr. Gleason. He declared that if he didnt know the difference he might have thought he was eating an extra chop. Everybody in the place was ready to root for soy beans. Dr. Kin explained that the reason the soy bean has been misunderstood in America was because people didnt take the trouble to investigate and analyze It, and to nd out what are its food properties with reference to the nutrition we get from meat and vegetable. Dont try to think about soy beans in a scientic way, she advised me. This thing I am working with is in reality a vegetable cheese. It takes the place of meat. Weve been using soy beans in China for over 2,000 years, and they are really very delicious and nutritious, this in an offhand way, as if an experiment of 20 centuries or so ought to pave the way for the American appetite. She didnt want me to get my mind cluttered with such terms as carbohydrates and proteins.
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I wouldnt waste a minute experimenting with food that was merely nutritious, she told me. This whole movement about nding out the possibilities of food is part of the cultural development of the American people. The older a civilization becomes, the more people like to be surrounded by beautiful things. Chinese art, you know, is the most highly developed art in the world. All this bother about beans is not a question of science or of what is good for us, but it is a question of what is dainty, what is nice, what appeals to the taste. Making a study of eating is a part of the ne art of living. American women, you must admit, are lacking in artistic sense. That is because the country is so young. When the process of renement is farther advanced they will not regard household work, and especially cooking, as drudgery. It is really art. The older nations, being more cultured, make a deeper study of things. Chinese, for instance. But the Americans are very susceptible, very open-minded and frank and eager to acquire new ideas. The trouble with vegetarians was that they expected us to eat such awful things. Im not a vegetarian, but I must admit that I nd great satisfaction in being able to sit down to most of my meals without facing the fact that I am eating slices of what was once a palpitating little animal, lled with the joy of life. I shouldnt be surprised if the soy bean will save the lives of many American animals. On a long table was a row of glass jars lled with what looked like slices of white cheese [fermented tofu]. It was soy bean cheese. A jar was lled with a brownish paste [probably a type of Chinese jiang]. It was soy beans. There were bottles lled with the condiment we get with chop suey. That, too. was made from soy beans. Talk about dual personalities! The soy bean has so many aliases that if you couldnt like it in one form you would be pretty sure to like it in another. Dr. Kin has been trying any number of experiments with a view to boosting the bean to a bigger place commercially. In due time the results of all these experiments will be catalogued at Washington [DC]. Perhaps some day there will be a Bureau of Beans, from which may be obtained for the asking recipes on a thousand ways to prepare soy beans. Because she is working for the Government Dr. Kin doesnt disclose many details about the things she is doing. All that is worth while will be public information in due time, she says. Canning curds and cheese so they can be kept an indenite length of time and then utilized in various forms is something she is trying to perfect. I might talk to you until doomsday about the manifold uses of soy beans, but you wouldnt understand, she told me candidly. Then she invited me to have luncheon in her apartment, promising me a practical and palatable demonstration that would make an impression in the way food ought to interest us. Of course, I was charmed with the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU idea. The only hitch was that I had to have luncheon without my hostess. Dr. Kin was going out of town early in the afternoon. While the Chinese lad was getting his instructions about piloting me to the apartment and serving luncheon, Dr. Kin turned to me and asked what kind of cheese I liked best. Roquefort, said I. Thats good, said she, and then she told the boy something else in Chinese, told me she hoped Id enjoy the luncheon and invited me to spend all afternoon at the at if I cared to read any of her books or look at her pictures. Before we turned in at 56 West Eleventh street, I discovered that Wei, my amiable escort, was somewhat limited as to English vocabulary. He had been here only six months. When he entered the apartment he ushered me into a cool-looking parlor, indicated a comfortable big chair beside an open window, and disappeared with a smile that seemed to say: Ill rustle along the luncheon if you just sit there and fan yourself. In a corner over near a window there was a big mahogany desk that looked like business. On it was the photograph of a Chinese-American youth, a strapping tall fellow who looked every bit a soldier. He is Dr. Kins soldier son, Alexander, 21 years old, who left college to enlist as a private, and is now with Pershings Eighty-second Division. A book and a magazine lay side by side on that desk. The book was Rabindranath Tagores Nationalism. The magazine was The Bean Bag. I took up the magazine. Here are a few things I learned: Three million acres have been cultivated to soy beans in the South, principally in North Carolina; man could come nearer living well on soy beans alone than on any other food: it is the nearest substitute to meat there is; containing starch, sugar, fat, cellulose, albuminoids, mineral salts; a new harvester has been invented that threshes the beans on the vines, over 100 American manufacturers are using soy bean oil for soap, paint, varnish, enamel, salad oil; soy beans are listed in the food market of the District of Columbia; the soy. or soja, is the rst and oldest of the 150 branches of the bean family; Manchuria claims the honor of its nativity; the Manchurian railroad recently opened a branch and an improvement station for distribution of the Ssupingkai special. Continued. 82. Morse, W.J. 1918. The soy-bean industry in the United States (ContinuedDocument part II). Yearbook of the U.S. Department of Agriculture p. 101-11. For the year 1917. See p. 106-10. Contains many photographs by Frank N. Meyer. Summary: Continued from p. 106. Soy beans for human food: In Asiatic countries, especially China and Japan, the soy bean and the various food products made from it are so largely consumed that it is second only to rice in importance as a food crop. The soy bean is eaten only to a very small extent like other beans, but in China and Japan
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it is elaborated into a great variety of products, all having a high percentage of protein and making a well-balanced diet when eaten in connection with the staple food, rice. Some of these products are said to be eaten at every meal and by rich and poor alike. Of these numerous preparations, only one, shoyu, or soy sauce, has been introduced to any extent in other countries. It is quite possible that some of these products would appeal to the American taste and with proper exploitation become established on the American market. Although the soy beans as an article of food has attracted attention from time to time in the United States, thus far it has been used but little except as a special food for invalids. The beans contain only a trace of starch and are highly recommended as a food for persons requiring a diet of low starch content. During the past year, however, much interest has been manifested in the possibilities of the soy bean as a staple food. Many schools of cookery and domestic science throughout the country have conducted experiments rather successfully, utilizing the dried beans in the manner of the navy bean. As a result, the dried beans can now be purchased in the markets in nearly all of the large cities. The variety and palatability of the forms in which the bean can be served make it a very desirable article of food, and it may be expected to grow in favor as it becomes better known (p. 107). Dried beans:... During the season of 1916 about 100,000 bushels of American-grown [dried] soy beans were packed as baked beans by several canning companies in the Central and Eastern States. Properly roasted, the dried beans make a good coffee substitute. Those fond of cereal beverages pronounce it equal to many of the preparations on the market. In China, the beans are soaked in water and roasted, the product being eaten after the manner of roasted peanuts. This method of preparing the beans is improved by soaking the beans for about twelve hours in a 10 per cent salt solution, boiling slowly for about 30 minutes, and then roasting to a light-brown color. The yellow-seeded and green-seeded varieties are preferable, as they make a product of better appearance. Green beans: When soy beans are three-fourths or more grown, the seed makes a most palatable and nutritious green vegetable. As such it may be used much as is the green pea or the Lima bean. The pods are somewhat tough and not desirable to eat. The green beans are rather difcult to shell, but after cooking in the pods for about ve minutes, they shell out very easily. Soy-bean milk: If dried soy beans are soaked, crushed, and boiled a milky emulsion is obtained which is very similar in appearance and properties to cows milk. This liquid, separated out by means of a very ne sieve or through a cloth lter, is the soy-bean or vegetable milk used so extensively in China. Soy-bean milk has a rather strong characteristic taste and odor which may be masked
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU by the addition of a small quantity of coumarin or vanillin. This vegetable milk can be used in numerous preparations, such as breads and cakes, in creaming vegetables, in milk chocolate, and in custards. If allowed to remain in a warm place the milk becomes sour, like animal milk, and in that form may be employed just like sour milk or buttermilk... After separating the milk from the solid material, the residue [okara] is still very rich in nutritive substances. It can be dried and used for cattle feed or possibly made into a meal or our for human consumption. Soy-bean cheese: The addition of magnesium or calcium salts (about a 1 per cent solution) to soy-bean milk when hot precipitates some of the proteid substances, forming a grayish white curd which settles out, leaving a yellowish watery liquid. This curd, after being drained and pressed, represents the tofu, or bean curd, which is so extensively eaten and forms the basis of numerous fermented, smoked, and dried cheeses in China and Japan (Plates III and IV). Tofu is made fresh daily and is a staple article of diet of oriental peoples. In many cities of the United States having a large Asiatic population, fresh bean curd generally may be found in the Chinese markets. Although the fresh curd, or tofu, is tasteless, it is a highly nutritious food and no doubt could be elaborated by the American housewife into a variety of palatable dishes. Soy sauce: Soy or shoyu sauce is a dark brown liquid prepared from a mixture of cooked and ground soy beans, roasted and pulverized wheat (barley is sometimes used), salt and water. This mass is inoculated with a culture known as rice ferment (Aspergillus oryzae) and left in casks to ferment from six months to a year and sometimes longer (Plate V)... This product may well serve as the basis of sauces of the Worcestershire type... The manufacture of soy sauce is conducted on a large scale in China and Japan, and to some extent in India. The yearly production of Japan is said to amount to nearly 2,000,000 barrels. The brewing of this sauce has also become a well established industry in Hawaii. Although there are no factories in the United States, considerable quantities of the sauce are imported annually, and it can be obtained at Chinese stores in most of our cities. Soy-Bean sprouts: Several species of beans are sprouted and used as a green vegetable by the Chinese (Plate VI). Soy beans are used to a very considerable extent for this purpose, as these sprouts are larger and rmer than those of most other legumes. Bean sprouts can be used as a home winter vegetable, for the dried beans are sprouted easily in a short time under proper conditions of heat and moisture. It is quite possible that sprouted soy beans utilized in various vegetable dishes would appeal to the American taste. A table (p. 111) shows the Quantity and value of soy beans, soy-bean cake, and soy-bean oil imported into the United States, 1910-1917, inclusive. Photos on unnumbered pages show: (1) A typical soy
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bean plant. (2) A eld of the Biloxi soy bean grown at Biloxi, Mississippi. (3) Pods and seeds of 7 common varieties of soy beans. (4) Large blocks of freshly made bean curd, tofu [on a round wooden table], ready to be cut up into squares and sold to the housewife. (5) Large bamboo tray of various kinds of soy-bean cheese of the drier type [pressed tofu sheets].
(6) A dark room of even temperature where wooden trays, full of bean curd [tofu] are piled. This is another method of preparing soy-bean cheese [fermented tofu].
(7) Large earthen jars full of squares of bean curd, which are covered with spiced brine and soy sauce. After several months curing a bean cheese [fermented tofu] is formed, which can be kept for many years. (8) A courtyard full of covered pots of fermented soy beans and brine from which soy sauce is made. (9) The basket on the left contains sprouted soy beans, which are sold and used as a green vegetable [in China]* * = Photographed by Frank N. Meyer, Agricultural Explorer, USDA. Note 1. This is the earliest published document seen (Jan. 2001) that contains photos of soyfoods by Frank. N. Meyer. Most of the photos appear to have been taken in
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU China. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Jan. 2001) in which William Morse describes soy-bean sprouts or soybean cheese (tofu). Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soy-bean cheese to refer to fermented tofu. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2003) that uses the term milky emulsion to refer to soymilk. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (May 2005) that uses the term masked (or any other form of that verb) in connection with the undesirable taste or odor of soyfoods (soy-bean milk) or soy beans. Address: Scientic Asst. in Forage-Crop Investigations, Bureau of Plant Industry, USDA, Washington, DC. 83. Shih, Chi Yien. 1918. Beans and bean products. Shanghai, China: Soochow University Biology Dept. 13 p. 24 cm. [Eng] Summary: The authors name in pinyin is probably Shi Jiyan. At the head of each section, the name of each product or type of bean is written in Chinese characters. Contents: Introduction by N. Gist Gee of the Dept. of Biology, Soochow Univ., China. Note 1. Soochow, also called Su-chou (formerly Wuhsien) is a city in southern Kiangsu (pinyin: Jiangsu) province, in eastern China, on the Grand Canal. Introduction and names of soy beans: Classical Chinese names, colloquial Chinese names, Latin names, and English name (Soja bean). Soy beans. The food products of soy beans. Bean curd (Cc). Tou fu koen. Po yeh. Yu tou fu. Ju fu. Tsao ju fu. Ching hsien ju fu. Tou chiang or bean sauce. Chiang yu. Bean ferment or tou huang. Bean Sprouts. Bean relish or tou shih [soy nuggets]. Bean oil. Note: Ju fu refers to fermented tofu. Beans (Four varieties of Phaseolus mungo var. radiatus: chidou = dark-red [azuki] bean, baichidou = white dark-red bean, lchidou = green red bean, and ldou = green [mung] bean): The food products from the green [mung] beans (ldou): Bean sprouts, green bean congee or lu tou chou, green bean soup or lu tou tang, green bean pudding or lu tou kao and lu tou sha. The food products from the red [azuki] bean (quite similar to those made from the green [mung] bean): Congee, rice, pudding, tou sha. Hyacinth beans (Dolichos lablab; ve Chinese varieties / names: biandou, baibiandou, qingbiandou, zibiandou, longzhao biandou). Asparagus beans [cowpeas] (Vigna catiang; four Chinese varieties / names: jiangdou, panxiang jiangdou, manli jiangdou, baimi jiangdou). The food products from Pien Tou and Chiang Tou. Medicine. Flowers and seeds of the Pai Pien Tou, the broad bean, windsor bean, or horse bean (Vicia faba); In China it has two names: (1) Tsan Tou or silkworm bean, because it is harvested at the time the silkworm is making its cocoon; (2) Han Tou or cold
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bean, because it grows through the winter. The food products from Tsan tou (broad bean): Bean shoot (tou miao), Ching tou (as a vegetable), Ja tou (broad bean sprouts), Shien fan and fan bee (made from broad beans and mung beans), Tou sha. The section on the names of beans (p. 1) we will give the English name, Latin name, the classical Chinese names / colloquial Chinese names, and an English translation in parentheses, as follows: (1) Soja bean, Glycine hispida: heidou / heidou (black [soy] bean), huangdou / huangdou (yellow bean), yangyandou / yangyandou (sheep eye bean), maliaodou / maliaodou (horse material / feed bean),/ guguo qingdou (bone wrap green bean),/ jiajia sandou (pod pod three bean), xiangsidou (mutually think bean) / xiaqngzhidou (fragrant branch bean),/ bayue baidou (8th month white bean). Soja bean: Dolichos cultratus quedou (magpie bean) / equedou (chirp magpie bean). Soja bean: Phaseolus vulgaris baidou (white bean) / shui bai dou (water white bean),/ shidou (fennel bean) (Note 3. shiluo means fennel),/ guashudou (melon ripe bean),/ maquedou (sparrow bean),/ niuta biandou (cow tread at bean),/ yadou (sprout bean),/ shijia xiangdou (ten family fragrant bean),/ xifeng qingdou (west wind green bean),/ shizi hedou (persimmon pit bean),/ denglongdou (lantern bean). Note 4. The large title Soy Beans at the top of this table, the right column which says that the English name of each variety is Soja bean, and the next 8 pages which are only about soy beans, strongly indicate that all the colloquial names in this table refer to different varieties of soy beans. Moreover, all these colloquial names appear again on page 3 in a table on planting and harvest times of different varieties of [soy] beans. The bottom half of the colloquial names are probably from different parts of China, since Dr. H.T. Huang (a soybean expert) has never heard many of these colloquial names before. The most puzzling question is: What are Dolichos cultratus and Phaseolus vulgaris doing at the bottom of the Latin name column? Dolichos cultratus is not listed on either of the two comprehensive taxonomy databases (GRIN and ILDIS, which include all past Latin / scientic names). Phaseolus vulgaris refers to the common bean, such as the kidney bean, pinto bean, navy bean, frijole, etc. 2. Soy beans. They were introduced into France during the reign of Chien Lung about 1740 A.D. by a French Consul; into England in 1790, into Australia in 1875, into Germany 1881, and 1888 into America. They were known here from ancient times and were mentioned in the oldest books Pn Tsao Kong Mu, which were written by the Emperor Shen-nung in the year 2838 B.C., and the later Chinese Classics. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2002) that treats Shen Nung as a real, historical gure, or that says the rst written record of the soybean appears in a book written by him. The information about that book is wildly inaccurate. The Bencao gangmu (The
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU great pharmacopoeia), perhaps Chinas most famous materia medica, was written by Li Shizhen (+1596). The above information, which is all wrong, has been cited again and again, down to the present day (2002), in connection with the supposed origin of the soybean. Even during the ancient times they were considered by the people to be the most important of the cultivated leguminous plants. Note 6. This is the earliest document seen (Aug. 2002) which states, incorrectly, that the date of Emperor Shen-nungs book is 2838 B.C. The methods of cultivation are as follows: In general all of the soja beans are planted in rows along the banks of canals and the boundaries of the elds, which separate the elds of one family from those of another, except those which are called oil beans or Eighth month white bean and Water white bean. These last are planted in large elds. The oil beans are planted early in June. The method of cultivation, harvest, and threshing is then described in detail. A table gives the time of planting and harvest for 18 varieties of Chinese soybeans, grouped into 6 types by planting and harvest dates: (1) Plant in latter part of April, harvest in latter part of Sept.: Heidou (black [soy] bean), huangdou (yellow bean), maliaodou (horse material / feed bean), guguo qingdou (bone wrap green bean), jiajia sandou (pod pod three bean), xiangzhidou (fragrant branch bean). (2) Plant in early part of June, harvest in middle part of Sept.: bayue baidou (8th month white bean), shuibaidou (water white bean), maquedou (sparrow bean). (3) Plant in early part of July, harvest in early part of Oct.: equedou (chirp magpie bean). niuta biandou (cow tread at bean), shijia xiandou (ten family fragrant bean), xifeng qingdou (west wind green bean), shizi hedou (persimmon pit bean), denglongdou (lantern bean). (4) Plant in early part of April, harvest in early part of July: guashudou (melon ripe bean). (5) Plant in early part of April, harvest in latter part of July: shidou (fennel bean). (6) Plant in early part of April, harvest in latter part of June: yadou (sprout bean). The rest of the work concerns the food products of the beans, including a detailed description of how each is made. Note 7. This document contains the earliest date seen for soybeans in Australia or Oceania (1875). It is not clear whether or not these soybeans were cultivated in Australia; they may well have been. The source of these soybeans is unknown, as is the authors source of information concerning that early introduction, 43 years before Shih wrote this booklet. He is the rst to give such an early date for the introduction of soybeans to Australia. Yet the date does not seem unreasonably early since there were 17,000 Chinese in Australia by 1855 (see Australian Department of Immigration and Ethnic Affairs. 1985. A Land of Immigrants). Address: Biology Dep., Soochow Univ., China. 84. Shih, Chi Yien. 1918. Beans and bean products: Ju fu
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[fermented tofu], tsao ju fu [redolent tofu], chiang ju fu, ham ju fu, ching hsien ju fu (Document part). Shanghai, China: Soochow University Biology Dept. 13 p. See p. 5-6. [Eng] Summary: (Cc) = Chinese characters inserted in text; pinyin romanization has been added. Ju Fu (Cc = rufu = fermented + tofu): Ju Fu is made from raw Tou Fu Koen (Cc = sheng doufugan = raw + tofu + dry), but it is less compressed than Tou Fu Koen. The different kinds of Ju Fu are prepared by different methods. Chiang Ju Fu is taken as our rst example. A kind of whitish mold, which is called Chiang Hsi, is required to prepare Chiang Ju Fu. This mold is obtained during the middle of the summer in the following way:(1) Wheat our is mixed with cold water to make slipper-shaped cakes. (2) Then these are put into boiling water and cooked thoroughly. (3) After boiling, the cakes are broken into small pieces and put aside in some exposed place to allow them to mold. (4) After about one week, the small pieces are all covered with mold and then they are placed in the sunshine for two days in order to dry them. (5) Next they are ground into powder which is called Chiang Hsi (Cc = jiangxi). To prepare three catties of raw Tou Fu Koen requires six ounces of salt, four ounces of Chiang Hsi. These are thoroughly mixed with the Tou Fu Koen and put into an earthenware jar and one catty of rice wine, one catty of Chiang Yu [soy sauce], one catty and four ounces of sugar solution, (which contains one catty of water and four ounces of sugar), are added into the jar and it is then thoroughly sealed. The method of sealing the jar is interesting. First a cloth is laid across the mouth of the jar, then large bamboo leaves are placed on top of this and they are bound together around the neck of the jar with a cord. Then mouth and neck of the jar are entirely covered with a sticky clay mixed with the owers of the reed to hold it together. The jar must be kept sealed for at least four months before its contents can be used for food, and if the vessel of opened before the end of this time the Ju Fu will spoil. It is used as food throughout the year and is eaten without further cooking as a vegetable with soft rice. It is red in color which is due to the presence of a kind of red rice. Three catties of Tou Fu Koen requires two ounces of red rice (Cc = hongqu). The price is about ten cash for a piece about two inches square and half an inch thick. There is another way of making Chiang Ju Fu. The Tou Fu Koen is rst put on a board and allowed to mold, and then it is salted thoroughly and packed in an earthenware jar for about four or ve days. The Chiang Yu [soy sauce], sugar solution, and red rice (Cc) are added. The proportions of ingredients are as follows: One catty of Tou Fu Koen, two ounces of salt, six ounces of red wine, six ounces of Chiang Yu [soy sauce] and four ounces of sugar in six ounces of water. After this, the jar is sealed and not opened for about
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU four or ve months. It is eaten in the same way as the other Chiang Ju Fu, and the price is approximately the same. Ham Ju Fu (Cc = nantui furu) is the Chiang Ju Fu which has ham mixed with it. Tsao Ju Fu (Cc = zaofuru): Tsao Ju Fu us made from Tou Fu Koen which is rst allowed to mold, just as in the process of preparing Chiang Ju Fu in the second way. After molding, the cakes are thoroughly salted, using about three ounces of salt to one catty of Tou Fu Koen. Then they are put in an earthenware jar for about four days and Chiu Niang (Cc = jiuniang) is added to cover all of the Tou Fu Koen. Chiu Niang is made from rice which is rst steamed and then poured into a big earthenware jar where it is allowed to cool. After this, a kind of yeast powder is added to the rice. Sixty seven pounds of rice requires six ounces of yeast powder. The two are mixed together and cold water is added to moisten the rice. Then a hole is made in the rice at the center of the jar and the rice is pressed back against the side of the jar. A straw cover is used to cover the mouth of the jar and a straw matting is wrapped around it. This is to keep its temperature high enough to hasten fermentation of the mixture. During cold weather the jar must be kept in a warm place. After about three days the wine collects in the central cavity. The fermented rice is called Chiu Niang. After Chiu Niang is poured into the Tou Fu Koen, the jar is sealed in the same way as in the making of the Chiang Ju Fu. The cakes of Tsao Ju Fu can be eaten after about two months. The price is about ten cash for one piece which is about the same size as that of Chiang Ju Fu. Ching Hsien Ju Fu (Cc = qingxian furu): This is made from Tou Fu which is rst divided into small square cakes. These are exposed upon matting or boards to allow them to mold. After about eight or nine days a whitish mold, about half an inch long thoroughly covers the Tou Fu cakes. The cakes are rst salted, using about three ounces of salt to one catty of Tou Fu. Then they are put into a big earthenware jar and covered with cold water to the depth of an inch. It is not necessary to seal the mouth of the jar, so it is only kept free from the dust by being covered with a piece of cloth. After ten or twelve the Ching Hsien Ju Fu is used in the same way as the Chiang Ju Fu. Its price is about sixty cash for one catty. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms Ju Fu or Tsao Ju Fu or Chiang Ju Fu or Ham Ju Fu or Ching Hsien Ju Fu to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Biology Dep., Soochow Univ., China. 85. Palen, L.S. 1919. The romance of the soya bean. Asia and the Americas 19(1):68-74. July. Illust. Summary: The author, who begins by acknowledging his indebtedness to Dr. Yamei Kin, Dr. John Harvey Kellogg, and Mr. W.J. Morse for much of the material in this article,
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gives an overview of the soya bean worldwide. The article contains excellent photos (many by Adachi): (1) Stacks of soya bean cake in open storage on Dairen wharves, South Manchuria. (2) Horses plowing soybean elds in North Manchuria. (3) Modern machinery [a huge steam-powered tractor] used in bean cultivation in remote parts of Manchuria where foreign interests are involved. A Western man and woman ride horses nearby. Caption: To the Manchurian farmer, with his laborious methods of hand cutting and hand winnowing, the introduction of modern Western farming methods would spell many-fold prosperity. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2003) that shows a photo of a tractor in connection with soybeans. (4) Stacks of soybeans piled high in sacks in Manchuria as far as the eye can see. (5) Soybeans stored in huge cylindrical, 20-foot-high osier bins, each covered with a conical top. Soy oil is puried and avored with an admixture of olive oil for use as a salad oil. It also forms the basis of some of our butter and lard substitutes. What Mr. Li Yu-ying accomplished in Paris in the establishment of a Laboratory of Research and of a factory for the production of all the products derived from the soya has been the forerunner of activity on the part of certain independent Chinese companies in America and of government and private investigations. In general the use of whole soya beans has not been attended with much success because of the ever present avor of the oil content and because, with the ordinary method of cooking, they remain hard and unpalatable; but it has been found that cooking at a temperature somewhat above the boiling point, say from 220 to 230 degrees, breaks up the cellulose structure and develops a richness of avor that is not obtainable with the lower temperature. By far the most extensive use of the soya is in the products manufactured from it. And it is here that Dr. Yamei Kin, the talented Chinese physician, is making her chief studies under the direction of the Pure Foods Division of the Department of Agriculture, with the purpose of spreading a knowledge of the soya among Americans. For convenience of consideration the products studied may be divided into sauces, curds, cheeses and milk. Of the sauces the liquid form is already familiar, although unrecognized, perhaps, by a large percentage of Occidentals through the work of early English traders in bringing back the base of the now famous Lea and Perrins Worcestershire Sauce. This original Chinese shi-yu was highly spiced and became a well recognized adjunct to many an English meal. Following the example of Lea and Perrins, others have put out sauces with the same base without, however, attaining the same success, because the makers did not understand that there are many kinds of soya sauce. While they are all made by the same ferments and in the same general way, they differ very greatly in quality according to the locality and to the manufacturer, just as
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU wine, though made from the identical kind of grape and by the same process of fermentation, may be a very different article from different hands. It takes several months to make this liquid form of sauce, while the best kind requires a year or more to attain the nest avor and mellowness. The hot condiment added by Lea and Perrins is not favored by the Chinese, since according to their taste it detracts from a wide use of the soya sauce. Tofu (spelled to-fu) is discussed in detail. There are records to show that it has been used since at least nine hundred years B.C. To-fu making is a staple industry in every little community. Usually it is done at night so that the fresh curd will be ready for the morning demand in the market, or for peddling around the streets. It provides, for the fraction of a cent, the indispensable equivalent of meat and affords very often the explanation of how the Chinese laborer does so much work on what is purely vegetable diet, popularly supposed not to contain much protein. To-fu is made in many different forms and the bean stalls occupy quite as large and prominent places in the city market as the sh and meat stalls... Cheeses are also made from the growth of cheesemaking moulds on tofu. The Chinese resident in America regularly import a certain highly avored red bean cheese for their own use... Perhaps the greatest contribution of the soya to the life of the Occident will be in its form of milk. Back in the golden era of peace there had been established in London a soya bean milk factory which was prepared to place its product regularly on the market, and there were said to be plans consummated for the erection of two others at Manchester and Liverpool; but of what the development has been we have no denite information. In Shanghai, Peking and Dalny Chinese companies are supplying hospitals and individuals with an 8 or 10 ounce bottle of concentrated milk per day at a cost of $1.00 Mex per month. In its competition with the cow the legume has in its favor the following facts: Soya milk can be produced with less contamination; it is tuberculosis-free; its caseins break down much more readily than the caseins of cows milk and do not form curds in the stomach in the same degree... By those who advocate and urge a vegetarian diet, a very strong bill can be drawn in favor of this oriental substitute. In these days when war has thrown new light on many of our life problems, it will be easier to secure acceptance for their contention that the world must for both economic and physiological reasons adopt the biological diet. It has been calculated that, roughly speaking, it takes 100 pounds of foodstuffs to produce 3 pounds of beef and that a given acreage of land can support ve times the population if the necessary protein can be derived directly from vegetable sources rather than going through the roundabout way of an animal form, imposing upon the body the burdens incident to taking in the toxines [toxins]
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resultant from the catabolism of the cells of the animal, and from possible putrefaction. In China the Buddhist priests and people who enter the various temperance societies all depend on varieties of to-fu. 86. Times of India (The) (Bombay).1919. Import manifests. Nov. 4. p. 12. Summary: S.S. Sealda, from Rangoon [Burma]. Agents: M.M. and Co.94,573 bags of rice,... 50 casks lub. [lubricating] oil, 2 jars and 1 case bean curd, 5 cases and 9 tins sauce,... 250 cases groundnut oil. Note: This bean curd, because it is sold in jars and must have a long shelf life in the tropics, is probably fermented tofu. 87. Koenig, Franz Joseph. 1919. Chemie der menschlichen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel. 4 Au. Nachtrag zu Band I. A. Zusammensetzung der tierischen Nahrungs- und Genussmittel [The chemistry of human foods and food adjuncts (stimulants / enjoyables) 4th ed. Supplement to Vol. I. A. Composition of animal foods and food adjuncts]. Berlin: Verlag von Julius Springer. 594 p. See p. 286-87, 346, 528. [6 ref. Ger] Summary: On pages 286-87 is a section on Sunowerseeds, soybean cake and soybean meal (Sojakuchen undmehl) as fodder for milk cows, by Nils Hansson. A table shows the weight of the feed and the resulting milk, and the fat content of that milk. Soybeans are also mentioned in two places on p. 346 as a raw material for soymilkwhich is described in German as a uid resembling cows milk or a soybean emulsion (Footnote: Die Sojabohnenmilch). A table titled Plant cheeses (Panzenkaese) gives the composition of tofu, kori-tofu (frozen tofu), Hamananatto, three types of soybean cheese (Sojabohnenkaese; from the year 1912, one type prepared in a laboratory), Chinese tofu, and Daua-Daua (Dawa-Dawa) cheese made from the seeds of Parkia africana. The source of all data is given, and the lengthy footnotes accompanying each entry in this table take up more space than the table itself. Note: This is the earliest German-language document seen (March 2001) that mentions soy nuggets, which it calls Hamananatto. Address: Germany. 88. Smith, Joseph Russell. 1919. The worlds food resources. New York, NY: Henry Holt and Company. 634 p. See pages 326-27, 360-65. [1 ref] Summary: Contains a brief overview of the soybean, soybean production, and soybeans as a food product, with several long excerpts from Dr. J.H. Kellogg, and the USDA Year Book of Agriculture (about food uses, including shoyu or soy sauce). A photo shows Soy bean curds and cheeses in a Japanese factory, in large earthenware containers (p. 362).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note: This photo of curds and cheeses, taken by Frank N. Meyer, shows the production of fermented tofu, probably in a Chinese factory (See: {1} Morse 1918. The Soy-bean Industry in the United States. Plate IV, g. 2; {2} Piper & Morse. 1923. The Soybean. p. 242). Concerning use of food resources, in the USA and Canada, the chief goal of agriculture is not to feed humans but to feed animals. This was true even in the food crisis of 1918 [at the end of World War I]. About 5,191 million bushels of grain are now grown in the USA; in descending order of importance (in million bushels) they are corn (2,863), oats (1,422), wheat (643), barley (195), rye (54), and buckwheat (14). Of this total of 5,191 million, the American people eat less than 550 million (14.1%). Adding the 340 million bu exported, the total amount used for human food was 900 million bu (17.3%). The rest, 4,300 million, went to our four-footed brethren, who outnumber us and whose food requirements, because of their greater size, are several times our own. In addition to the grain, they get all of the 85,360,000 tons of hay grown on 54,618,500 acres. (More than ten per cent of the half billion acres under cultivation in the United States). They also roam over millions of acres eating all the grass. It is therefore plain that more than four-fths [80%] of the produce of American agriculture, even in 1918 [a war year], went to feed beasts. Address: Prof. of Geography, Columbia Univ., New York. 89. Le Goff, Jean. 1920. Un aliment prcieux pour diabtiques: le soja [A valuable food for diabetics: Soya]. Repertoire de Pharmacie 32(1):1-4. Jan. 10. Series 3. 76th year. (Chem. Abst. 14:1169). [Fre] Summary: A call for the cultivation of the soy beans in France on the ground that they can be the source of valuable food products. Soybeans are said to be especially valuable as a food for diabetics, since they are is composed almost entirely of nitrogenous and fatty materials and contain practically no carbohydrates. Food uses of soya: In the past, it has been objected to as a food because the dried beans are difcult to cook. The fresh beans, however, are said to be as easily cooked as peas and to have a avor somewhat resembling that of chestnuts. The soybean can be used to make: (1) Flour, from which biscuits, pastries, and bread can be made. (2) Edible oil. (3) Vegetable milk (lait vgtal), from which one can make a cheese [tofu] that can be eaten either fresh or dry, smoked or fermented. (4) A coffee substitute, after roasting. A table compares the nutritional composition of soybeans grown in China, Hungary or France; there is no signicant difference in their chemical compositions. Address: M.D., licenci s sciences. 90. Church, Margaret B. 1920. Laboratory experiments on the manufacture of Chinese ang-khak in the United States. J.
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of Industrial and Engineering Chemistry 12(1):45-46. Jan. [7 ref] Summary: This important article begins: Chinese red rice, or ang-khak (ang-quac) (Footnote: See Lafar 1906) is produced by means of a noteworthy fungus, Monascus purpureus Went. Red rice evidently originated in one of the provinces of China and even to-day may be procured only in certain localities of that country. It is well adapted to its special use, the coloring of food products, such as Chinese cheese, because of its property of breaking into ne particles when rubbed or brought into contact with water solutions. The Chinese have been very secretive concerning the preparation of red rice, and the literature contains only the following facts on the subject. These are vague. Not withstanding the competing organisms, Monascus purpureus has always been successfully isolated from Chinese red cheese which are colored with red rice. Dr. Church obtained two strains of Monascus purpureus from silage, sent to her by A.R. Lamb of Iowa State College. Four more strains of Monascus purpureus were secured from Chinese products, three from the supercial red coloring on soy bean cheeses and one from red rice. In Dec. 1917, laboratory experiments with the pure culture manufacture of red rice were begun. Strain E of the mold, which came from Chinese soy cheese, resulted in more promising material. The laboratory products developed by Church were compared with a sample of red rice collected in China by Dr. Yamei Kin, a Chinese woman doctor, working for the USDA Bureau of Chemistry. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms Chinese cheese or Chinese red cheeses (or Chinese red cheese) or soy cheese or Chinese soy cheese to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) which mentions the mold Monascus purpureus in connection with fermented tofu or which states that this species of mold is the cause of the red color in red fermented tofu. Note 3. The author worked with Dr. Charles Thom. This was a study of the Monascus fermentation of rice to produce ang khak or red rice, which was used to color various foods such as fermented tofu, red rice wine, or roast meat. The purpose of the investigation was to determine the cause of the red pigment in commercial ang khak. Note 4. This is the earliest study seen (Feb. 2007) of a fermented food published by a USDA researcher. Note 5. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2007) published in the Western World that mentions ang-khak or Chinese red rice or red rice. Dr. Church discovered the production of the red color in rice to be caused by a mold, Monascus purpureus Went. Not all strains of this mold are adapted to the production of red rice. She demonstrated that the rice moisture level had to
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU be at 25% or lower to get good pigment formation. Address: Bureau of Chemistry, U.S. Department of Agriculture, Washington, DC. 91. Church, Margaret B. 1920. Re: Request for information on and samples of fermented foods in China. Summary of research on these foods in the USA. Letter to Dr. Y.S. Djang, Chichi Industrial Inst., Tientsin, China, April 6. 2 p. Typed, without signature (carbon copy). Summary: Church was given Dr. Djangs name by Carl Fellers, who is presently a member of her Bureau and stationed in San Francisco, California. We are studying in this ofce food products produced from soy beans by controlled fermentation processes, and also red rice (angkak). As it happens we have studied the Japanese process of making soy sauce most specically. Church requests samples of Chinese soy sauce not found on the U.S. market, or sauce avored with decoctions of such things as Perella or Ceirela... We are interested in knowing to what extent sweetening such as molasses, caramel or sugar is used in Chinese soy sauce. Is the practice of sweetening soy sauce local, or conned to broad areas as southern China and not Central China? At times we have attempted to make fermented bean cheese. It would be of value to us if you could send us one or more of those little to-fu cheeses as they might be secured in the middle of the process, when they are covered with an inch or so of white mold... Address: Microanalyst [Biological Laboratory, Bureau of Chemistry, USDA, Washington, DC]. 92. Fellers, C.R. 1920. Re: Information on soy cheese and canned soy curd. Letter to Margaret B. Church at USDA Bureau of Chemistry, Washington, DC, April 20. 1 p. Typed, without signature. [1 ref] Summary: I have obtained some information regarding the manufacture of soy cheese and canned soy curd and have made one factory inspection. I hope to make a couple more soon and will be glad to send you a copy of my report when it is nished. As you probably know, Aspergillus is used in the manufacture of these products. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term soy curd. Soy cheese almost certainly refers to fermented tofu, and canned soy curd to canned tofu. Address: Bacteriologist, San Francisco, California. 93. Chung, H.H. 1920. Re: Offer to gather information about fermented soy products in China for Margaret Church. Letter to Miss Margaret B. Church, Biological Laboratory, Bureau of Chemistry, USDA, Washington, DC, April 27. 1 p. Handwritten. [Eng] Summary: Chung plans to return home this coming July; his address will be Nan Kai College, Tientsin, Chihli
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province, China. I shall be very glad to do my best for you in gathering information about the fermented food products of my country and securing samples of the same, whenever possible, after I have arrived at home. At present I have nothing to add to what I already told you about the making of soy sauce. The people in my province (Kiangsi) also make cheese out of tofu as you described, and we usually dye it with the powder of a kind of seeds which I think are those of Bixa Orellana L. [annatto]. I have never examined the mold with a microscope, so I cannot say what mold is used here. Yours truly... Note: At the top of the letter Miss Church has written Chinese cheese. Address: 120A Conant Hall, Cambridge 38, Massachusetts. 94. Yamazaki, Momiji. 1920-1925. Shinasan hakk kinrui oyobi hakk seihin no kenky [Fermentable fungi and fermentation products of China]. Shina Kenkyu (Reports of the Study of China) No. 1. p. 1-219. Aug.; No. 2. p. 1-105; No. 3. p. 1-104; No. 6. p. 1-144; No. 7. p. 1-158; No. 8. p. 1-168; No. 9. p. 1-193. [Jap] Summary: In No. 1 (Aug. 1920), soybeans and soyfoods are discussed in the following sections (p. 218-19): (7) Yellow soybeans. (8) Soy nuggets or shi (explanation, about the name). (9) Jiang or sh (explanation, about the name). (14) Fermented tofu. Since the text is written in Chinese characters, it is hard to tell the meaning of sections 10-13. No. 2 was published in Nov. 1921. No. 3 in May 1922. No. 7 in March 1924. No. 8 in Sept. 1924. No. 9 in Oct. 1925. Address: Kyju Ngakushi, Tadbunsho-in Shina Kenky-bu. 95. Thom, C. 1920? Utilization of molds in certain foods. 9 p. Undated. Unpublished typescript. Summary: Here is some soy sauce in a bottlethis was made between January and October 1920 in Washington, DC, by the Department of Agriculture. Describes how soy sauce is made and its microbiology. Also discusses miso (red and white), grey-white or red Chinese cheeses based on soybean curd (made by ripening with a mold and then brining; in Foo-chow is made a red vegetable dyemade from ang-quac or red rice made with the red mold Monascus purpureus), katsuobushi. Address: USDA Bureau of Chemistry, Washington, DC. 96. San Francisco Chronicle.1921. Soya bean cheese is passed by Mitchell. July 22. p. 6. Summary: To ascertain whether or not there is any kick in Chinese (?) soya bean cheese made with alcohol,... Director E.E. Mitchell yesterday lunched on this delectable dishthat is, he attempted to make a lunch out of the delicacy. Its sure got a kick all right, he said, after partaking of a sample. But not the kind Im paid to look for. The kick in this cheese is of the limburger variety. No one can get
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU intoxicated on soya bean cheese. Formula approved. Soya bean cheese is made by preparing a paste [sic, rm tofu] from soya beans and cutting it up into pieces which are pickled in 20 per cent alcohol and brine. At the end of sixty days it is ripe. The liquid is poured off and the cheese, which retains 3 (?) per cent alcohol, is used as a condiment. Note 1. We call this product fermented tofu. The text of this article is very hard to read, as indicated by (?) after uncertain words or numbers. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soya bean cheese to refer to fermented tofu. 97. North, J.L. 1921. To solve the cost-of-living problem? A magic bean. Illustrated London News (The). Oct. 8. p. 47677. [1 ref] Summary: The leading article and letter in the Times of Sept. 28 from its Vienna correspondent about Manna our, manna bread, and milk substances made from the Soya bean, are likely to do good if they help us to realise how much we are losing by our neglect of this, the most valuablefor the uses to which it can be putof all legumes. In the letter giving the details of the researches of Dr. Lszl Berczeller of Vienna, there is no reference to the fact that these Manna or Soya bean products were rst made in England before the war. Samples of the our and biscuits are to be seen in the cases of the London Institute of Hygiene, and Manna milk has been for yearsand, no doubt, still issold here under the name of Solac at a price considerably lower than that charged for milk by dairymen. The appearance and rapid rise into importance of the Soya bean is one of the most remarkable commercial events of modern times. In 1790 the [soy] bean was brought to Europe when its cultivation was rst attempted by Young [Arthur Young, lived 1741-1820 in England], the father of British Agriculture, though without success. In 1878 an Austrian professor, Haberlandt, tried it, but failed [Note 1. Haberlandt did not fail; he successfully cultivated soybeans in Austria as early as 1875, and many times thereafter.] When the bean came here in 1908 there was an immediate rush to grow it both in Europe and America. Experiments were started by our Board of Agriculture, the Royal Agricultural Society, and many semi-public bodies. The early experiments failed completely, for the reason that they were made with seed whose climatic origin was unknown, as well as the orthodox Chinese methods of growing it. Later, this was remedied... By 1918 Europeans were aware of 500 different soybean varieties that were growing experimentally at Arlington, Virginia. My interest in the Soya bean began in 1913 with a visit from an agent of a German cultivator at the ofce of the Royal Botanical Society at Regents Park. He was, he
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said, trying to form a syndicate to grow what he called an acclimatised Soya bean, brought from China in 1910, and already in cultivation in Germany. He refused seeds for testing, but sent from Hamburg a plant which had been carefully cleared of the seed, though the empty pods, nearly sixty in number, were left. The syndicate never materialised, and I thought no more of the matter, until later on, whilst examining the dried plant, I noticed a tiny pod, scarcely half an inch long, which contained a seed no bigger than a pins head. Going over the plant I found other pods which evidently had been thought too insignicant to be of use, and from these I obtained thirteen seeds. These were sown in 1914 and resulted in thirteen plants, which produced four hundred and forty seeds. From thirty-three plants in 1915 one thousand seeds resulted, and in 1916 no less than twelve thousand. Many experiments as to the value of different methods of growing them were made in several countries, and with no less than twenty-one different foreign varieties. One thing came clear throughout the tests, and that was that the original variety started with was by far the best. It says a good deal for German astuteness that they should have gone to Manchuria and, from hundreds of varieties, chosen the one best for them and for us. The future of the Soya bean in England is uncertain. Natural selection helps the plants that mature earliest produce most seed; those that mature late die out. It is noticeable that the plants experimented with in England fruit earlier now than they did at rst, and this is a very hopeful sign. Another satisfactory fact is that there is no lessening in the number of pods produced, but rather a gain. This year there are plants with three times the number of pods shown in a photograph of the best German-grown specimen of 1912. In China and Japan the Soya bean enters into the composition of most dishes, and in one form or another, as Soy sauce, bean paste, bean cheese, bean curd, bean milk, bean wafers, bean cakes and confectionery, is used everywhere. For a hundred years Soy sauce has been importedthe principal ingredient in the well-known Worcester [Worcestershire] sauce. Apart from its value as a food, it is used in the manufacture of glycerine, explosives, enamels, varnish, varnish, waterproofs, linoleum, paints, soaps, celluloid, printing inks, and as a lubricant. Photos (all but #1 by Frank N. Meyer of the USDA) show: (1) A typical pod from a soya bean plant grown by Mr. J.L. North at Chiswick, England, in 1921. (2) Two large, thin blocks of tofu (bean curd) on a round, wooden table. Soya bean cheese for human food... Ready to be cut up into squares for sale to the public. Tofu, or Soya bean curd, is made by adding magnesium or calcium salts (about a 1 per cent. solution) to hot Soya bean milk; the product is drained and pressed. (3) Varieties of soya bean cheese on a bamboo tray. Tofu, or Soya bean curd, forms the basis of many
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU fermented, smoked, and dried cheeses in China and Japan. (4) Soya bean cheese [fermented tofu] in preparation: A pile of wooden trays full of bean curd in a dark room of even temperature. (5) Used by the Chinese as a green vegetable: A basketful of sprouted soya beans. (6) Soy bean plant with leaves, many pods and roots, grown at Chiswick. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (March 2002) written by Mr. J.L. North, the pioneer in cultivating soybeans in England. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2010) that uses the term soya bean cheese (or soya-bean cheese) or the term soya bean curd to refer to tofu. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (July 2007) that uses the term magic bean or that uses the word magic as an adjective to refer to the soybean. Note 5. Concerning Arthur Young. He was the author of many books on agriculture, which were very inuential in their day. He was an important advocate for the progressive agricultural practices of his time, advocating such innovations as the seed drill, improved crop rotations, the use of marl as fertilizer, and the enclosure of open elds. In 1767 he undertook the management of a farm in Essex. He conducted various experiments and published the results in A Course of Experimental Agriculture (1770). In 1784 he began the publication of the Annals of Agriculture, a periodical which was continued for 45 volumes and had many contributors. Young traveled to France during 1787-89 and in 1792 published an important book about his travels and observations there. The soybean was rst grown in Paris, France, perhaps as early as 1740, denitely by 1779. So he may have learned about soybean from fellow agriculturalists in Paris while on this trip. Address: Curator of the Royal Botanic Society of London. 98. Piper, Charles V.; Morse, William J. 1923. The soybean. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill Book Company, Inc. xv + 329 p. Feb. Illust. Index. 24 cm. Reprinted unrevised in 1943 by Peter Smith Publishers, New York. [563 ref] Summary: This is the rst comprehensive book about the soybean written in English, and the most important book on soybeans and soyfoods written in its time. Contains an excellent review of the world literature on soybeans and soyfoods with a bibliography on soy that is larger than any published prior to that time (563 references), a good description of the present status of the soybean worldwide based on the authors extensive contacts, and a great deal of original information. It quickly became a key source for people and organizations working with soybeans and soyfoods in all countries, and a major factor in the expansion of the soybean in the western world. Because of its scope and inuence, Soyfoods Center considers the year of its publication to mark the end of the Early Years of the soybean worldwide. It remained in print until about 1986.
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Contents: Preface. 1. Introduction: Name of the plant, origin, literature, use by the Chinese and Japanese, present importance, future prospects in the U.S., recognition of the possibilities. 2. The commercial status of the soybean: Manchuria and China, Japan, Europe, U.S., other countries, summary of imports and exports of soybeans and soybean oil. 3. Botanical history of the soybean: History prior to Linnaeus Species Plantarum 1753, Linnaeus misunderstandings of the soybean, Prains elucidation, other and the correct botanical name. 4. Agricultural history of the soybean: Vernacular names of the soybean, China, Korea, and Japan, India and neighboring regions, Cochin China, Malayan region, early introduction into the United States, later U.S. introductions, the early introduced varieties (grown in the USA by 1898Ito San, Mammoth, Buckshot, Guelph or Medium Green, Butterball, Kingston, Samarow, Eda, Ogemaw or Ogema), soybean in Europe, varieties grown in Europe and identication, Hawaiian Islands, Australia, Africa, Argentina (p. 50), Canada (Soybeans are grown in very small quantities in Canada and then usually as a forage crop), Philippines, Egypt, Cuba (p. 52), British Guiana, Mauritius (p. 53), present culture distribution. 5. Culture of the soybean: Climatic adaptations, soil preferences, water requirement, preparation of seed bed, time of planting, methods and rate of seeding, seeding for pasturage, depth of seeding, inoculation, fertilizer reactions, cultivation, soybeans in mixtures (with cowpeas, sorghums, Sudan grass, Johnson grass, millet, corn, or sunowers and corn). 6. Harvesting and storage of soybeans: harvesting soybeans for hay, silage, for the seed, seed yields, proportion of straw to seed, storing seed, separation of cracked from whole soybean seed, viability of soybean seed, pedigreed, inspected, registered, and certied seed. 7. Composition of the soybean: Proportions of stems, leaves and pods, composition of plant and seed, nutritive and mineral constituents, forms of nitrogen in soybean nodules, factors affecting oil content of seed. 8. Utilization of the soybean: Diversity of uses (a chart, p. 129, shows 59 products that can be made from soybean seeds, and 6 more that can be made from soybean plants), soybeans for green manure, pasturage, soiling, ensilage, hay, straw. 9. Varieties: Japanese, Manchurian, botanical classications, vital characteristics, descriptions of important varieties, key for identication, breeding and improvement, genetic behavior, oil content. 10. Structure of soybean seeds. 11. Soybean oil: Methods of extraction [Manchurian, and solvent], American oil mills, methods of shipping and marketing, prices, utilization in soap manufacture, food, paint manufacture, miscellaneous. 12. Soybean cake or meal: Feeding value, composition, use for feeding for dairy cows, cattle, swine, sheep, poultry, digestibility, injurious effects, fertilizer. 13. Soybean products for human food: Food value of the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU soybean, digestibility of the soybean and its products, mature or dry soybeans, immature or green soybeans (a nutritious green vegetable), soybean our, digestibility of soybean our, soybean bran (p. 225-26), soybean sprouts, soybean coffee, soybean or vegetable milk [soymilk] (preparation, composition, residue from the manufacture of vegetable milk [okara], utilization of soybean milk, condensed vegetable milk, vegetable milk powder, fermented vegetable milk), vegetable casein, tofu or soybean curd (names and brief history, method of manufacture, coagulating agents, manufacturing yields, digestibility, utilization of bean curd and manufactured products, bean curd brains or tofu nao, dry bean curd or tofu khan, thousand folds {chien chang tofu}, fried bean curd {tza tofu}, Fragrant dry bean curd {hsiang khan}, frozen tofu {kori tofu}, Chinese preparation, various dishes), natto, hamananatto [hamanatto], yuba, miso, shoyu [soy sauce], confections. 14. Table dishes of soybeans and soybean products: mature or dry beans, our, tofu, sprouts (86 recipes). 15. Enemies of the soybean: bacterial, mosaic, fungous [fungus], and nematode diseases, insects, rodents. This last chapter is a comprehensive review of the literature on soybean diseases and insects published before 1922. The Preface begins: The soybean, also known as soya or soja bean, has assumed great importance in recent years and offers far-reaching possibilities of the future, particularly in the United States. It is, therefore, desirable to bring together in a single volume the accumulated information concerning this crop... The aim has been to present the information so as to make it useful from both agricultural and commercial standpoints, not omitting, however, much that is mainly of historical or botanical interest... The introduction begins: There is a wide and growing belief that the soybean is destined to become one of the leading farm crops in the United States. Note 1. C.V. Piper lived 1867-1926. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (July 2003) that uses the term soybean bran to refer to soy bran. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (July 2003) in which Piper or Morse describe natto, Hamananatto [Hamanatto], yuba, or miso. Note 4. This book was published by March 1923 (See Ohio Farmer, 10 March 1923, p. 313). Address: 1. Agrostologist; 2. Agronomist. Both: United States Dep. of Agriculture, Washington, DC. 99. Piper, Charles V.; Morse, William J. 1923. Tofu or soybean curd (Document part). In: Piper and Morse. 1923. The Soybean. New York: McGraw-Hill. xv + 329 p. See p. 234-44, 273-78. [6 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Method of manufacture. Coagulating agents. Manufacturing yields. Composition of soybean curd. Digestibility of soybean curd. Utilization of bean curd and manufactured products. Bean curd brains
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or tofu nao. Dry bean curd or tofu khan. Thousand folds (chien chang tofu). Fried bean curd (tza tofu). Fragrant dry bean curd (hsiang khan). Frozen tofu (kori tofu). Chinese preparation. Various dishes. Tofu, a sort of white cheese or curd,... is called Teou fu by the Chinese, Tofu by the Japanese, and Dan Phu by the Annamites [in todays Vietnam]. It is said to have been originated by the Chinese philosopher, Whai Nan Tze, before the Christian Era, and was undoubtedly introduced into Japan from China by the Buddhists. The coagulating agents most generally employed throughout the Orient are the concentrated mother liquid obtained from the manufacture of salt from sea water, burned powdered gypsum, and magnesium chloride... The junior author (Morse) has obtained successful results with rennet and 1 per cent. solutions of acetic, tartaric, and lactic acids. Sour milk has also given satisfactory results as well as the water [whey] drawn from the bean curd after coagulation. By the use of pure salts or rennet the bitter taste which is generally found in the curd made by Oriental methods is avoided. Yields: In commercial tofu production, 1 pound of beans is said to yield about 3.57 lb of tofu (i.e., the yield is 3.57). Champion (1885) got a yield of 1.53 and Paillieux (1880) got a yield of 1.50. Morse conducted many tests to determine the yield of curd from 19 different soybean varieties. His yields ranged from 0.686 to 0.282extremely low. Different types of Chinese tofu: (1) Dry bean curd or tofu khan: bean curd squares are dipped in burnt millet-sugar sauce until rich brown in color. Fine salt also has been rubbed on them. This form of cheese can be kept for several days and is generally eaten in soups. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2011) that contains the term bean curd squares or that uses that term to refer to Chinese-style pressed tofu. (2) Thousand folds (chien chang tofu): This product is prepared by placing very thin layers of the bean curds on cloths, on top of one another, and subjecting them to considerable pressure and allowing them to dry for a short time. The layers of bean curd are then removed and rolled together like a jamroll. It is said to be eaten cut into strips, like noodles, in soups. When allowed to mold for several days it is fried in sesame oil and has a meat like avor. (3) Fried bean curd (tza tofu): The fresh bean curd is cut into small squares and fried in deep fat. After a few minutes the bean curd pieces oat on the surface and they are taken out. This product is often fastened on bamboo bers (Fig. 65) and may be kept for several days. They may also be eaten with syrup as fritters. (4) Fragrant dry bean curd (hsiang khan) [wu-hsiang toufu kan]: This form is made like the ordinary bean curd but great pressure is applied to drive out as much water as possible. The squares (Fig. 66) are rst soaked in a weak brine or bean sauce to which powdered spices and burnt millet-sugar have been added and then are
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU thoroughly dried out. The curd becomes very hard and can be kept indenitely. It is said to be eaten sliced in soups and in various vegetable dishes. (5) Frozen tofu (kori tofu): Frozen bean curd is an excellent example of the application of the freezing process for the drying or concentration of a food. Fresh bean curd contains rather a high per cent. of water and is therefore a very unstable product. The fresh bean curd is cut into small pieces and exposed to severe cold weather. By freezing, the vegetable proteid shrinks and forms a porous cake permeated with ice crystals. This frozen cake can be readily thawed out and dried. It forms a product much resembling gluten bread in appearance. If the tofu is not frozen, it is difcult to dry and the resulting material is dense and horn-like... (6) Chinese preparation:... Tofu is quite generally preserved in loaves (100 to 150 grams) which are cooked in a decoction of turmeric roots. It is also preserved with salt. Often the curd is cut into small pieces and preserved in rice brandy [to make fermented tofu]. When smoked, the curd also keeps very well and can be wrapped in tinfoil for the market. Smoked curd is prepared by cooking the curd in a sauce diluted with water (80 per cent. and 20 per cent. soy sauce) and after cooking the curd is smoked in the same manner as meat. Various American- and European-style recipes: When cut into small pieces and cooked with an egg, it furnishes an excellent omelet. It also may be used as the principal ingredient in baked stuffed peppers. The fresh tofu makes an excellent salad or sandwich lling if the curd is chopped nely and chopped olives, pepper, salt, and mayonnaise dressing are added. When cut into small pieces and cooked in tomato sauce or similar sauces, a very good meat substitute is obtained. Cooked with meat broth, the curd takes the avor of the meat. It is readily seen that the fresh bean curd can be utilized in many ways and when the people of the western world become better acquainted with this simple method of manufacture, it will no doubt, become more generally utilized. Nineteen tofu recipes are given on pages 273-78. Photos show: (1) Large blocks of freshly made bean curd Tofu ready to be cut up into squares and sold for breakfast. (2) A large bamboo tray full of various kinds of bean curd. In the little wooden tubs on the ground the watery sorts of curd are kept immersed in saline water. (3) Squares of fresh bean curd fried in oil and put on a string of bamboo ber. Called tza tofu (fried bean curd) and said to supply a snack in between meals for hard working Chinese laborers. (4) A semi-dry bean curd of the consistency of smoked sausage, called Hsiang khan (fragrant dry) which is eaten sliced in soups, and with vegetable dishes. Two squares, each bearing a stamped mark, are shown next to an open pocket knife for size comparison. (5) A semi-dry fresh bean curd, called Lao to fu (old bean curd) said to be used by the poorer classes of Chinese for breakfast. One
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square (with a cloth-like texture on the surface) on a small plate, and a broken half square are shown. (6) A room in which fermented tofu is being made. A dark room of even temperature where wooden frames, full of squares of bean curd are piled, one on the other, the lowest resting on a layer of somewhat damp rice straw. One tray is open, showing the rows of tofu cubes, each covered with a white mycelium. (7) Large earthen jars, full of squares of bean-curd, which are covered over with spiced brine and soy-sauce. After several months curing a new product has been formed, called FooyuBean cheese [fermented tofu], which can be kept for many years and becomes better with age. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Foo-yu to refer to fermented tofu. Note 3. Each of these 7 photos was taken (probably in China) by Frank N. Meyer, Agricultural Explorer, USDA. Tables show: (1) Yields of bean curd obtained by William Morse from different varieties of soybeans. Variety #37062 gave the highest yield of tofu. 50 grams of soybeans yielded 34.3 gm of tofu and 30.5 gm of Cake [okara]. Note 4. This yield of 0.69 is very low; it should be at least 2.5. Variety #38462 gave the lowest yield, 0.28. (2) Composition of tofu and tofu products, compiled from various sources: Five samples of fresh tofu (6.0% protein on average), one frozen tofu (48.65% protein and 28.65% fat), and one fried tofu (21.96% protein and 18.72% fat). Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term soybean curd to refer to tofu, or that uses the word Teou fu (or Teou-fu), or the word Dan Phu (or Dan-Phu) to refer to Chinese-style tofu. 100. Church, Margaret B. 1923. Soy and related fermentations. USDA Department Bulletin No. 1152. 26 p. May 12. [27 ref] Summary: This long and very informative paper, with its excellent bibliography and review of the literature, is the third earliest study seen of a fermented food published by a USDA researcher. The focus is on Japanese fermentations because of the laboratorys contact with Japanese researchers, such as Dr. T. Takahashi and Dr. G. Kita. The experimental work reported here was conducted under the direction of Charles Thom, mycologist in charge, Microbiological Laboratory, Bureau of Chemistry. Contents: Introduction. Work of previous investigators. Experimental work: Apparatus, material, preparation of ingredients, shoyu-koji, peanut press cake koji, shoyumoromi. Proportions of ingredients. Yields. Chinese soy sauce. Peanut sauce. Relation of enzymic activity to soy processes. Manufacture in the United States. Related fermentations (Miso, soy cheese [fermented tofu], natto). Summary. Bibliography. Soy sauce is a dark-brown salty liquid made by the fermentation of soy beans with, as a rule,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU some additional starchy component. It is widely used as a seasoning throughout Japan, China, and Java [Indonesia], and has been introduced into the Philippines and Hawaii* (* = See letter from C.W. Carpenter, Sept. 23, 1918). Where the occidental would use a vegetable or meat extract and salt, the oriental daily uses soy sauce. Americans are familiar with soy sauce as it is used in the Chinese-American restaurants and as an ingredient which produces the characteristic avor of the Worcestershire type of sauce. In Japan, the process of preparing shoyu-koji, a mold-fermented product made from tane-koji, takes 3 to 4 days. The mold-fermented material is emptied into a strong brine, thus producing a mash. Constant daily attention is given to aeration, even distribution, and stirring of the solid ingredients. Progressive changes take place over a period of from six months to several years, until at last the mature moromi, as the mash is designated by the Japanese, is produced. These changes are due partially to the activity of bacteria and yeasts, but chiey to the enzymes of the mold introduced into the mash with the koji. Experimental work: The Department of Agriculture had certain strains of the Aspergillus avus-oryzae group of molds known to be used in making soy sauce. Through the courtesy of W.T. Swingle, of the Bureau of Plant Industry, a can of commercial Japanese rice tane-koji designed for shoyu manufacture was also received. Dr. Gen-itsu Kita brought additional samples of shoyu tane-koji under sterile conditions directly from Japan. Provided thus with soy beans, wheat, and the mold ferment, experiments with soy sauce were undertaken by the Bureau of Chemistry in 1918. (1) Apparatus: The apparatus was made according to specications drawn by Doctor [T.] Takahashi, of the Imperial University of Tokyo, who worked in the bureau for a month. The usual Japanese koji room (g. 2) is 32 feet long, 11 feet wide, and 7 feet high. The walls are thick, and in the more modern factories are built of brick, which does away with uctuations in the temperature from without. At one end of the room is an entrance and at the opposite end a window. In the ceiling several openings provide means of escape for the carbon dioxid [dioxide] and the damp air. Steam pipes along the oor make it possible to warm the room in cold weather. The ceiling is built with many layers of straw in order that the condensing moisture may be absorbed. One disadvantage of such a ceiling is that infection always occurs in the wet straw. A large area of infection directly over the piles of koji trays is detrimental to the production of sweet koji. In modern buildings, therefore, the surface of the ceiling is coated with cement. When a cement ceiling is used the condensed water drops on the trays of koji, which also is harmful... The burning of sulphur is useful in combatting any infection of a koji room. Material: The mold ferment employed in shoyu-koji manufacture is Aspergillus avus Link, occasionally A. oryzae (Ahlb.) Cohn, or strains intermediate between the
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two species. Certain Japanese manufacturers add cultures of pure yeast belonging to the genus Zygosaccharomyces at the time of placing the rst mold-fermented material in the brine. Preparation of ingredients: While soaking the soy beans, the water should be changed at intervals of several hours to prevent the formation of spore-forming rods, which cause heating and souring. The spores of these bacilli are on the beans as they come from the eld. After being soaked for 20 to 24 hours the swollen beans are cooked in an open kettle or under pressure until they are soft enough to be easily pressed at between the thumb and nger. This desired softness can be obtained by autoclaving at 15 pounds pressure for 50 minutes and also by much longer cooking in an open kettle. Autoclaving under pressure has the advantage of sterilizing the material. After roasting, the wheat is crushed or cracked. It is important to reduce some portions of the kernel to a ne powder or dust. The cooked beans and cracked wheat are mixed in large trays or on mixing tables. Hot beans may be cooled with a draft of air directed over a thinly spread layer. These two ingredients need to be thoroughly mixed, so that the wheat dust may form a coat over each bean. The lower water content thus induced on the exterior of the beans makes them better adapted to mold growth than to bacterial growth. Shoyu-kojiRipening: After the beans and wheat are thoroughly mixed, a very small quantity of previously molded material, such as mature rice koji (tane-koji), some shoyu-koji, or a pure mold culture, is thoroughly mixed into the ingredients. The whole mass is then distributed into the small at koji trays (Plate II, inserted between pages 4 and 5) which are immediately placed into the koji fermentation room before they cool further. Each tray holds about 1.8 liters, or about 2 quarts of raw material. The koji trays are placed in tiers along the wall of the room (Fig. 3). They are usually stacked in a zigzag fashion to ensure adequate aeration. This is extremely important because moisture and the lack of oxygen induce the development of mucors and bacteria, and are said to cause the diastatic enzyme to develop at the expense of the proteolytic enzyme. In some localities in Japan no such trays are used, but a broad straw mat with which very good koji can be secured. The koji room or compartment is kept at a temperature of 24 to 25 C., with a denite humidity. Continued. Address: Microanalyst, Microbiological Lab., Bureau of Chemistry [USDA]. 101. Church, Margaret B. 1923. Soy and related fermentations (ContinuedDocument part III). USDA Department Bulletin No. 1152. 26 p. May 12. [27 ref] Summary: Continued (p. 20): Relation of enzymic activity to soy processes: During the ripening of the moromi, the essential factors are diastatic and proteolytic enzymes produced by the mold. But what part do the enzymes of the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bacteria play? Increasingly great numbers of bacteria in the koji cause an undesirable avor in the nal soy sauce. Manufacture [of soy sauce] in the United States: Making soy sauce is a complex, subtle, and difcult process. If this were not true the process would not be regarded as secret, as it so generally is in the Orient. Church was interested in helping a soy sauce industry to develop in the USA. The majority of soy sauce makers and manufacturers in the Orient employ purely rule-of-thumb methods which have been handed down and individually perfected by more or less successful experience. Accurate knowledge of the reasons for the steps involved in the process as practiced is not common. Of the almost innumerable ways in which soybeans are used in the Orient as more or less elaborately prepared foods, soy sauce seems to offer prospects of more immediate adoption in the United States than any other product... Soy sauce has already gained a strong foothold with frequenters of Chinese-American restaurants. Table sauces containing soy sauce as an ingredient are to be had in a great variety of grades and avors. They also present an unlimited eld for further variation. Concentrated forms of seasoning, such as yeast and vegetable extracts suitable as meat substitutes in avoring soups and other prepared dishes, are receiving consideration by manufacturers. The manufacturers of table sauces and condiments interested in soy sauce are among the largest and best known rms of the United States... One company at least in the United States manufacturers a wholly domestic product. Related fermentations (Miso, soy cheese [fermented tofu], natto). Summary. Bibliography. Address: Microanalyst, Microbiological Lab., Bureau of Chemistry [USDA]. 102. Church, Margaret B. 1923. Soy and related fermentations: Related fermentationsTo-fu ripened with a mold (Document part). USDA Department Bulletin No. 1152. 26 p. May 12. See p. 23. [27 ref] Summary: In China the curd, or to-fu, made from soybean milk, is ripened with a mold preparatory to a ripening in brine. Such products are commonly termed cheese by travelers. The to-fu is cut into square, rather thick pieces which are arranged on the narrow face in rows upon traylike racks. The racks are stacked zig-zag fashion, or so that aeration is possible under damp conditions. The squares of bean curd become overgrown with a mold. The nal cheese as received in the United States shows the mold on the squares of curd as white mycelium with no fruit. After the development of the mold on the curd the squares of to-fu are placed in brine for further ripening. At the completion of this ripening the product is utilized as a food product. It comes into the country commonly as canned white or red squares of fairly salty bean curd, covered with a salty liquid which is thick because of the crumbling from the curd itself. The
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red color in such mold-ripened and brined to-fu is due to red rice, made by changes produced upon rice kernels by the mold Monascus purpureus Went. Address: Microanalyst, Microbiological Lab., Bureau of Chemistry [USDA]. 103. Douglas, Carstairs; Barclay, Thomas. 1923. Supplement to dictionary of the vernacular or spoken language of Amoy. Shanghai, China: Commercial Press Ltd. 276 p. See p. 221. 28 cm. Summary: This edition was found bound at the back (p. 613) of the 1873 edition. See tu (R. t) = pease or beans. chi tu-h soured bean curd. Address: 1. Rev., M.A., LL.D. Glasgow; 2. M.A., DD., Glasgow, Missionary of the Presbyterian Church of England, Tainan, Formos. 104. Minami Mansh Tetsud K.K. Kgy-bu. Nmu-ka. [South Manchuria Railway Co., Industrial Div. Bureau of Agriculture]. 1924. Daizu no kak [Soybean processing]. Dairen, Manchuria: SMRC. 777 p. 30 cm. (Sangyo Shiryo 21). [250 ref. Jap] Summary: Name of company with diacritics is: Minami Mansh Tetsud K.K. Kgy-bu. Nmu-ka. This important, major work was written by Yoshitane Sat. Contents: Photos (on unnumbered pages at the front of the book) show 16 scenes of soybean transportation, storage, and processing in Manchuria, as follows: (1) Mule drivers whipping mules trying to pull carts loaded with large sacks of soybeans over muddy roads. (2) Cylindrical osier storage bins for soybeans. (3) Row upon row of sacks of soybeans piled high in storage near docks. (4) Soy sauce being made in a courtyard; each earthenware jar is covered with a woven conical lid. (5) The inside of a huge and modern soy sauce plant. (6) Wooden kegs and glass bottles of Yamasa shoyu. (7) Soy sprouts growing in round woven baskets. (8-11) Soy oil being pressed using vertical screw presses [as an alternative to hydraulic presses]four views. (12) Boilers used in a soybean mill. (13) A wooden barrel of soybean oil being sealed. (14) Soy oil packaged in many small containers, each surrounded by a wicker basket. (15) Round soybean cakes stacked high on railway atcars. (16) The inside of a modern soy oil factory. Contents: 1. Current status of soybean production and consumption: A. Production: Overview (p. 2), Japan (p. 4), Korea (p. 12), Manchuria (p. 16), China (except 3 eastern provinces, but including Eastern Inner Mongolia, p. 31), USA (p. 34), British colonies (p. 37), European countries (p. 40). B. Consumption: Japan (p. 41), Korea (p. 52), Manchuria (p. 57), China (p. 59), Dutch East Indies (Indonesia, p. 60), USA (p. 61), European countries (p. 63). 2. Characteristics of soybeans: A. From a physical sciences viewpoint (p. 67): Structure (overview, cotyledons, hypocotyl, seed coat), contents of each system (p. 70), appearance (p. 73; color, gloss, shape, size, hilum (fusuma) color, young plumule leaf color, ratio of seed to seed coat).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU B. From chemical viewpoint (p. 82): General composition, structure of each component (p. 109; protein, oil, carbohydrate, ash/minerals, vitamins). C. Appearance and relationship between oil and protein content (p. 126): Oil and protein color related to color, glossiness, shape, size, hilum color, young plumule leaf color. D. Evaluating soybean quality (p. 140): Overview, key points (sizes, shapes, colors, glossiness, hilum color, young plumule leaf color, ratio of seed coat to seed, dryness of seed, volume, weight, smell, mixing of different varieties, ratio of imperfect seeds, amount of other types of seeds), collection of materials for testing, testing and evaluating commercial soybeans. 3. Soybean usage and processing (p. 175). A. One view of main usage of soybeans. B. Nutritional value of soybeans as food (p. 183): Nutritional value of soy protein. C. Processed soyfoods (p. 208): Soy sprouts (p. 208), natto (itohiki natt, p. 212, Hamanatto, p. 224), types of tofu (regular tofu [nama-dfu, p. 226], kori-dofu or koya-dofu, p. 240, aburaage, p. 245, tofu curds [tofu n, p. 247], hard tofu [tofu-kan, p. 247], fragrant hard tofu [k-kan, p. 248], sench tofu, p. 249, fermented tofu [nyfu or funy, p. 249]), tofu-pi or yuba (p. 256), soymilk and articial cows milk, p. 259, soybean our raw, or roasted (kinako, p. 263), shoyu (p. 266; overview of miso and shoyu, Japanese traditional regular shoyu, p. 267, Japanese traditional special shoyu and tamari, p. 269, Chinese soy sauce, p. 272, recent shoyu research and development, p. 274), miso (p. 280; Japanese traditional regular miso, Japanese traditional special and processed miso, p. 282, Chinese miso, recent miso research and development, p, 285). D. Soybeans as feed or fodder (p. 287; green soybeans as feed, p. 290): Fresh forage, dried forage or hay. E. Soybeans as manure or fertilizer (hiry, p. 297; in the Kaij area of Manchuria, have been roasted and steamed, and mixed with compost, and used for green manure (ryokuhi) or soybean cake (daizu kasu). This method has also been used in the northeastern provinces (Tohoku chiho) of Japan in rice elds). F. Soybeans as oilseeds (p. 302). G. Use of soybean protein in industrial products (p. 304). 4. The soy oil extraction industry (p. 305): A. Methods of removing the oil (origins, traditional methods, hydraulic pressing, extraction method, p. 340). B. Advantages and disadvantages of each method (p. 348). C. The soy oil industry in Manchuria (p. 357): History of development, important places for soy oil on the Manchurian Railway, economic condition of the Manchurian oil industry (p. 420), oil extraction in Japan (history, p. 437, commercial factories, p. 442, development of these factories, p. 451). 5. Soybean meal or cake and its composition (p. 464). A. The varieties of soybean meal or cake and the composition of each. B. Evaluation of quality (p. 473). C. Soybean meal or cake as a fodder (p. 478): Feeding value and digestibility, incorrectness of the theory that there are bad effects from feeding soybean meal or cake (p. 479). D. Soybean meal or cake as a fertilizer (p. 490). E. Soybean meal or cake as food
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(p. 504): Use as a raw material for shoyu production (p. 506), use to make soy our (p. 509). F. Soybean meal or cake as a source of protein in industrial products. 6. Soy oil and its processing (p. 526). A. Characteristics of soy oil: Composition, physical characteristics (p. 535), chemical characteristics, testing and evaluating soy oil (p. 564), the quality of commercial soy oil products (p. 577). B. Rening soy oil (p. 587). C. The use and processing of soy oil (p. 631): Overview, rened soy oil as a food, substitute for salad oil, or for deep-frying oil, as an illuminant, as a cutting oil, lard substitute, margarine, in paints, soap, hardened oil, for waterproong, substitute for petroleum oil, glycerin, fatty acids, stearine. 7. Exports and imports of soybeans, soybean meal or cake, and soy oil (p. 708). A. Manchuria. B. Manchurian exports. C. China. D. Japan. E. Korea. Appendix: Bibliography of soybeans (Japanese-, German, and Englishlanguage works; p. 748). List of photos. Note 1. This is the earliest Japanese-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls nyfu or funy. Note 2. This is the earliest Japanese-language document seen (Feb. 4) that uses the term itohiki natt to refer to natto. Address: Dairen, Manchuria. 105. Chinese Economic Bulletin.1926. Soy industry in Foochow. 9(301):316-17. Nov. 27. Summary: Soy manufacturers in Foochow [pinyin: Fuzhou], the capital of Fukien [pinyin: Fujian] province, total about 250, including 100 in the city and suburbs and 150 in the surrounding villages. The leading ones are Kwo Pen-yi (CC = Chinese characters given), Tang Sen-hsing (CC), and Tung An (CC), the rst two capitalized at upward of $100,000, and the third a little below $50,000. Mr. Kwo is an experienced soy manufacturer of Yuki (CC), and Mr. Tang of Kwantow (CC [pinyin: Guantou]). The former started the Foochow branch manufactory at Shangtuwei (CC), Nantai (CC), in 1920, and the latter at Tientangchieh (CC) in 1925. Tung An is the oldest establishment in Foochow, having been operated at Howyangli (CC), Nantai, by a Chuanchow (CC) man for about half a century. These manufacturers are organized into two guilds: The City Guild (CC) and the Nantai Guild. The small manufacturers try to compete with the large manufacturers by offering a better product, but so far they have not been successful. Soy is a sauce manufactured from soya beans. The name soy is derived from the Japanese shoyu, the Chinese name being shi yiu (CC [for soy nugget sauce]) chiang yiu (CC [for soy sauce]). The raw material used, especially by the manufacturers in Kwantow, is the green [soy] bean from Newchwang, sold in Foochow at $10 per 100 catties. The Foochow manufacturers, however, prefer the yellow [soy] beans from Tengchow (CC), Shantung province, where they
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU are cheaper than the green variety by several hundred cash per hundred catties. The method of manufacture is briey as follows. The beans are rst cooked, then mixed with wheat our and table salt, and put in a slightly closed wooden jar. The contents of the jar are afterward sprinkled with salt solution, and then transferred into a porcelain kong [earthenware vessel], in which they are hard pressed. Finally they are heated in the sun: the longer they are exposed to sunlight, the better the taste of the soy produced. The soy [sauce] produced in Foochow is inferior in quality to the Kwantow product. The general processes of manufacture are practically the same, the only difference being in details, which remain a commercial secret among the manufacturers. Other reasons for the superiority of Kwantow soy sauce may be enumerated as follows: (1) Absence of adulterants. Soy [sauce] is generally divided by its color into two kinds, the light color soy and the dark color soy. The former is pure and has a pleasant taste; it is sold at 1,280 cash per catty. The latter is adulterated with molasses, so as to reduce the cost of manufacture; it is therefore much cheaper in price, not exceeding 32 cash per oz. (2) Longer exposure to the sun. The Foochow manufacturers are less spacious and less sunny than the Kwantow manufactories. The soy in the former is exposed to the sun for eight or nine hours a day, while the soy in the latter is exposed from sunrise to sunset. This partly accounts for the superior quality of the Kwantow soy. (3) Long period of preservation. Having been prepared, the soy should remain in the sun for a year before being sold. Old soy is better than fresh soy, as old wine is better than new. However, small manufacturers cannot afford to keep their output for such a lengthy period and often sell it after a few months. While Tang Sen-hsing and Kwo Pen-yi conne their business to soy, the Tung An also deals in the following: Table salt; chiang [jiang] (CC) a semi-solid soy, distinguished from chiang-yiu, which is a liquid soy; distillers grain; vinegar; dried bean curd [probably Chinesestyle pressed tofu, doufu-gan], pickled bean curd [probably fermented tofu]; salt eggs; salt vegetables and melons; prawn oil; samshu; sesame seed oil; salt turnip; &c. Tang Sen-hsing and Kwo Pen-yi are the best soy makers in Foochow, while Tung An produces excellent pickles. Soy and pickles in store are kept in porcelain kongs or sometimes wooden barrels. Soy to be transported to other cities is packed in glass bottles or bamboo bottles, the former having a capacity between half a catty and two catties, the latter between three catties and ten catties. Owing to the increase in the price of salt from $6 to $8 per 10 catties, soy manufacturers in Foochow have raised the price of soy by 16 cash pr catty in May. Prices of other products have also been advanced by the following rates.
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Dried bean curd, from 8 cash to 10 cash a catty. Pickled bean curd, from 20 cash to 24 cash a catty... 106. Pirtle, Thomas Ross. 1926. History of the dairy industry. Chicago, Illinois: Mojonnier Bros. Co. xii + 645 p. Illust. Portraits. Maps. 24 cm. * Summary: Page 539: The liquid substance is like milk in appearance and on coagulation becomes the bean curd, or [when fermented], as it is sometimes called, Chinese cheese. There is an enormous consumption of bean cheese in China and in Japan. Still it is not made in factories. Every small town has a bean-curd shop. It must be made fresh each day and resembles cottage cheese. 107. Maliareffsky, G.I. 1927. [Manufacture of Chinese soy sauce in North Manchuria]. Vestnik Manchzhurii (Manchuria Monitor) No. 12. p. 56-61 + additional photographs. Russian edition. [Rus] Address: Manchuria. 108. Wu, Hsien. 1928. Nutritive value of Chinese foods. Chinese J. of Physiology, Report Series No. 1. p. 153-86. July. Issue title: Metabolism. [7 ref. Eng; chi] Summary: The nutritive value of many Chinese foods (water, protein, fat, ash, crude ber, carbohydrate, calories) is given (with the English name, scientic name, and name in Chinese characters), including the following: wheat gluten, sesame seed (p. 155), yellow soy bean, black soy bean (large or small), green soy bean, soy bean sprout (yellow or green), soy bean our, soy bean curd, soy bean dregs [okara], bean curd (doufu-gan, boiled in salt and spices and partially dried), oil skin ([yuba], from boiled soy bean milk), bean curd skin ([yuba], dried, or rolled like bamboo), soft bean curd, soy bean milk (p. 156), smoked bean curd, sheet bean curd, fermented bean curd, pickled bean curd, soy bean (fresh) (Characters: hair + bean = mao tou), wild soy bean, red gram bean (red small bean, Phaseolus mungo [azuki bean], p. 157), cucumber pickled in soy bean paste (p. 175). Condiments: Thick soy bean paste, thin soy bean paste, fermented soy bean, fermented bean (dried), thin soy bean sauce (white), thick soy bean sauce (white), thin soy bean sauce (black), thick soy bean sauce (black), soy bean sauce (chemical), sweet our paste (p. 176). Table 4 (p. 180) gives the calcium, phosphorus, and iron content of some Chinese foods in percentages of edible portion, including the following: Wheat gluten, jobs tear, yellow soy bean, black soy bean, red gram bean [azuki], green soy bean (fresh), soy bean our, soy bean milk, bean curd (Southern style and Northern style). Table 5 (p. 182) lists foods as sources of vitamins A, B, C, or D, including the soy bean (an excellent source of vitamin B). Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word doufu-gan (or doufu
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU gan) to refer to Chinese-style rm tofu. Address: Dep. of Biochemistry, Peking Union Medical College, Peking, China. 109. Dyson, G. Malcolm. 1928. Mould food of the Far East. Pharmaceutical J. and Pharmacist (London) 121:375-77. Oct. 20. Summary: Discusses Aspergillus molds, soya sauce or shoyu, shoyu-koji, tane-koji, the shoyu-yeast (a strain of Zygosaccharomyces), the sodium salt of glutamic acid (which imparts a meat-like avor to these purely vegetable preparations), aji-no-moto, red miso and white miso (shiromiso), natto, the protein-splitting powers of the enzymes secreted by the molds mentioned above. Red soya cheese is a type of tofu. The ripened curd is immersed in a brine and the maturing is nished by a purple moldMonascus purpureus (Went.)which imparts a red color to the nished tofu. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Red soya cheese to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Ph.D., A.I.C. 110. Dorsett, P.H.; Morse, W.J. 1928. Agricultural explorations in Japan, Chosen (Korea), Northeastern China, Taiwan (Formosa), Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Ceylon (Logunpublished). Washington, DC: USDA Bureau of Plant Industry. Foreign Plant Introduction and Forage Crop Investigations. 8,818 p. Unpublished typescript log. Illust. Partially indexed. 28 cm. Summary: Also called the Log of the Dorsett Morse Expedition to East Asia and (by the National Archives) Dorsett-Morse Expedition to the Far East, 1929-31, this is one of the most important documents ever produced on soybeans and soyfoods. Covering the period from late 1928 until 1932, it consists of 17 volumes of typewritten unpublished manuscript plus handwritten notebooks. The two explorers, who were gone on the expedition for a little more than two years, initially planned to be gone for about three years. They took 3,369 photos of which 95% appear in the report; the original prints are pasted on the pages, each with a number and a caption. The rst negative number is #43196 (p. 238) and the last is #46514. The last numbered page of the report is #8818, but most of the index pages are not numbered and some special reports at the end of the main report each start with page 1. The rst quarter of the pages (to about page 2,500) are indexed, using 4 separate indexes. The only original and 2 microlm copies were at the American Soybean Assoc. (St. Louis, Missouri), however as of Aug. 2011 they are on permanent loan to Rare and Special Collections at the National Agricultural Library (Beltsville, Maryland)which also has 7 photograph albums that accompany the 7 log books. A list of the missing pages has been compiled. One photocopy of a microlm copy is at the Soyinfo Center
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(Lafayette, California). One microlm copy is at the National Archives in Washington, DC, in Records of the Bureau of Plant Industry, Soils, and Agricultural Engineering, Record Group 54. See: National Archives Microlm Publication No. M840. Expedition Reports of the Ofce of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction of the Department of Agriculture, 19001938. Rolls 16-20, volumes 56-73. These microlm rolls may also be available for viewing or duplication at one of the various regional branches of the National Archives (e.g. San Bruno, California). A brief itinerary of the trip is as follows: 1929 Feb. 18The party of 5 people leaves Washington, DC, for Los Angeles by train. It consists of Morse, his wife Edna, their daughter Margaret (age 7), Dorsett, and his daughter-in-law Ruth (Bobbie; the widow of Dorsetts son, she served as Dorsetts secretary and general helper). March 1They sail from San Francisco to Yokohama on the S.S. President Grant of the Dollar Steamship Lines. March 29Arrive in Yokohama, proceed directly to Tokyo, establish headquarters with rooms at the Imperial Hotel, and hire an interpreter, Mr. Suyetake, who works with them for the next 2 years. May 21The Morses go to Hokkaido, the Dorsetts to Kyoto, by sleeper train. Morse returns to Tokyo. Aug. 17The entire party arrives in Hokkaido and establishes headquarters in Sapporo to study soybeans. Oct. 8Leave Hokkaido for the Northeast Provinces, then arrive in Tokyo on Oct. 15. Oct. 22Arrive in Keijo (Seoul), Korea, then take many side trips. Note: 1929 Oct. 29Great Depression begins in USA with stock market crash. Dec. 8Return to Japan via Kyushu, then to Tokyo to study soyfoods. They buy and photograph many! 1930 April 1Travel by steamer to Dairen, Manchuria, where they set up headquarters. Dorsett very sick from April 11 to June 11; taken to a Japanese hospital in Dairen, he almost dies of double pneumonia. Morse does the work of both men and does not inform USDA of Dorsetts critical condition. June 24Morse takes a quick trip to northern Korea, via Mukden and Antung (Tan-Tung), to look for Zoysia grass. July 1Returns to Manchuria via Mukden. July 21. Dorsetts leave for Peking by train; Morses and Mr. Suyetake stay in Dairen. Aug. 21Morse party travels to northern Korea, staying in Heijo (Pyongyang / Pyongyang); takes a 4-day side trip to Seoul. Sept. 28Morse returns to Dairen, Manchuria. Oct. 19Morse party leaves Dairen, arriving in Peking the next day. Nov. 9Morse party returns to Dairen. Nov. 30Morse arrives in Harbin, north Manchuria, then passing through Mukden, returns to Dairen. Dec. 18Morses leave Dairen for Japan, passing through Kobe on Dec. 21 and arrive in Tokyo on Dec. 23. 1931 Jan. 12Travel to Kyoto, Himeiji, and Tatsuno Shoyu. Jan. 16Visit Okazaki and Hatcho miso. Jan. 17 Return to Tokyo. Feb. 17Morse party leaves Tokyo by boat
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU for the USA, arriving in San Francisco on March 4. March 15Dorsett party leaves Peking for Tientsin, Shanghai, and Hankow. March 27. Dorsetts sail from Shanghai to San Francisco. Note 1. The title of this report is puzzling since the expedition never went to Taiwan, Singapore, Java, Sumatra, or Ceylon. It was proposed several times that they visit these places, but the plans did not work out. Note 2. This is the earliest log (unpublished) seen (Oct. 2001) that mentions soy. Address: Agricultural Explorers, USDA, Washington, DC. 111. Tao, L.K. [Tao Menghe]. 1928. Livelihood in Peking: an analysis of the budgets of sixty families. Peking: Social Research Department, China Foundation for the Promotion of Education and Culture. 158 + xxii p. Series: Social Research Publications, Monograph No. III. Facsimile edition reprinted in 1982 by Garland Publ. Co. (New York). Summary: Appendix V is an 8-page table titled Total quantity and fuel value of food consumed by twelve elementary school teacher families in one month. The section on Vegetables (p. xvii) mentions numerous soybean products, with both the English-language name and Chinese characters, including: Bean-curd (dou fu) [rm tofu] Bean-curd, green, fresh (ma dou fu). Bean-curd, preserved (chou dou fu) [stinky tofu]. Bean-curd, smoked (dou fu gan) [smoked tofu]. Bean-curd, smoked, thin (dou fu si) [smoked tofu noodles]. Bean-curd, lamina (qian zhang) [pressed tofu sheets]. Bean, lamina (fen pi) (made from mung beans). Bean-curd, cheese (jiang dou fu) [a type of fermented; tofu preserved in Chinese jiang]. Bean-curd, green, dried (ge xi dou fu). Note: We have never heard of two of these types of tofu before: (1) Bean-curd, green, fresh (ma dou fu). (2) Beancurd, green, dried (ge xi dou fu). From the name and context they appear to be made from soybeans. Address: Formerly Prof. of Sociology, National University, Peking, China. 112. Coville, Frederick V. 1929. Soybean cheese. Science 70(1812):282-83. Sept. 20. Summary: Describes fermented tofu and its preparation. It is probable that the Chinese are the best empirical dieticians in the world... At any Chinese restaurant one may obtain, by asking for it with sufcient diligence, a cheese made not from the animal protein of milk but from the vegetable protein of the soybean. Persistence in the asking is usually required, because the Chinese manager of the restaurant keeps this food on hand for his own use. It is only in rare instances that his American customers know or ask for it. Soybean cheese is highly salted and its use by the Chinese corresponds very closely to our use of Roquefort
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cheese. The Chinese do not serve salt on their own tables, but they salt and at the same time season their food by the addition of one of two substances, soybean cheese and soybean sauce... Soybean cheese is excellent when served with salad, meats, vegetables or bread. Protein is extracted from the soybean in the form of a milky liquid by a process of grinding, boiling and straining. The protein in this soybean milk is coagulated or precipitated to form white curds by adding brine made from impure salt [nigari] containing as impurities magnesium chloride and calcium chloride, in much the same way that cheese curds are precipitated from dairy milk by adding rennet. From the rmly pressed soybean curds, soybean cheese is made through the process of fermentation described in a forthcoming paper titled A New Species of Monomucor, Mucor sufu, on Chinese Soybean Cheese. The author of this paper, Mr. Nganshou Wai, chief chemist of the National Hygienic Laboratory, Shanghai, is a native of Chekiang Province, China, and was graduated in 1924 from the Japanese Imperial University, Kyoto, where he became especially interested in biochemistry. He then worked for two years in Kyoto in the laboratory of Professor Genitsu Kita, whose studies of fermentation are well known. Mr. Wai has isolated from soybean cheese [fermented tofu] a mold which uniformly accompanies the proper fermentation of this cheese. He has grown the mold in pure culture, and by inoculating fresh soybean curd with it, he has produced soybean cheese of characteristic avor and texture. The original account of the experiments was published in Chinese, with illustrations, in December, 1928, in the Agricultural Journal of the Agricultural College, National Central University, Nanking. Mr. Wais paper, an abstract of the original, is the rst presented in English. Note 1. See the next issue of the this journal, Sept. 27, p. 307-08. Note 2. This is the earliest published English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soybean cheese to refer to fermented tofu. 113. Wai, Nganshou. 1929. A new species of monomucor, Mucor sufu, on Chinese soybean cheese. Science 70(1813):307-08. Sept. 27. [1 ref] Summary: The utilization of fermentation microorganisms was known so early in China that we can trace it back to the Hsia Dynasty, 2000 B.C... From the scientic point of view, the old manufacturing methods seem to be fundamentally sound. For example, the regulation of temperature, the purity of the culture and the means of pasteurization and preservation are conducted so skillfully that we can not but be impressed with the painstaking and accurate observations on natural phenomena in the past. The application of mono-mucor in the manufacture of sufu is such an example.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Sufu or tosufu is a well-known dish in the Chinese dietary. It is made from soybeans and sold everywhere in groceries. Soymilk is coagulated with brine to make tofu. The tofu is pressed in wooden molds into blocks of desirable sizes, which are then arranged on bamboo trays and left in the fermentation chamber for about a month. The manufacture of sufu begins in December and ends in February. The average temperature of the fermentation chamber is found to be 14C. After this treatment these blocks are transferred to large earthenware barrels, each having a volume of seven hectoliters. Then salt and Shoushing wine are added one after the other to the blocks, mainly for the purpose of preservation. The barrels are nally closed, covered with wooden plates and left unopened for about three months. After this procedure the blocks, having acquired a peculiar avor, are ready for sale. The products seen on the market are usually red or white blocks 2 to 4 cm square and 1 to 2 cm in thickness. The white ones are untreated, while the red ones are colored with hung chu ch, which is derived from the culture of another mold, Monascus purpureus, on rice. Sufu is manufactured in large quantities in the region of Shoushing [Shaoxing] in Chekiang Province [Zhejiang, a coastal province in central eastern China] and Soochow [Suzhou], Wushih [Wuxi], and Changchow [Changzhou] in Kiangsu Province [Jiangsu, a coastal province in central eastern China]. The native manufacturers know how but not why such avored sufu is produced. They believe that the fermentation is controlled by one of the gods, to whom they make prayers for its success. Early in my research on sufu I found in the fermentation chamber of a factory in Shoushing gray mycelium about 2 cm in height covering the whole surface of the blocks. As I deemed this mycelium to be valuable for scientic research, I made a culture of it on the spot and brought the culture back to Nanking. The mold which produces this mycelium was isolated. It appears to be an undescribed species of Mucor for which the name Mucor sufu is proposed... From the observations recorded above I conclude that the transformation of tofu into sufu is due to the growth of this Mucor. It is also interesting to note that the mono-mucor on sufu manufactured in Shoushing in Chekiang Province and that in Soochow, Wushih, and Changchow in Kiangsu Province is all of the same species. In ancient times traveling was handicapped by lack of railway connections between Chekiang and Kiangsu nearly three hundred miles apart. It is remarkable that the mold on sufu manufactured in these two provinces should be of the same species, a coincidence of historical as well as biological importance. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word sufu or the word tosufu to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. Note 2. Usage of these terms seems to be largely
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conned to the area in and around Shanghai. In Mandarin, this product is widely called doufu-ru or furu (pinyin), fu-ju (Wade-Giles), rufu, or dou-ru. In Cantonese (and in most Western tofu shops run by Chinesewho come from Canton) it is called fuyu, fu yu or funan. The rst Westerner to use the term sufu was Walter T. Swingle (1945), a brilliant plant pathologist and plant physiologist with the USDAas well as an agricultural explorer and sinologist. The rst Western microbiologist or food scientist to use the term was Dr. C.W. Hesseltine in his classic 1965 paper A millennium of food, fungi, and fermentation. From that paper and from the ongoing research on this food by Hesseltine and his coworkers, the term spread rapidly among Western scientists and writers. We feel this is unfortunate, since few Chinese know the meaning of the term sufu. Note 3. Frederick V. Coville, in his article titled Soybean Cheese (Science, 20 Sept. 1929, p. 283), states, in reference to this journal article, that Mr. Nganshou Wai, chief chemist of the National Hygienic Laboratory, Shanghai [the same city where the term sufu is most widely used!], is a native of Chekiang Province, China, and was graduated in 1924 from the Japanese Imperial University, Kyoto, where he became specially interested in biochemistry. He then worked for two years in the laboratory of Professor Genitzu [Gen-itsu or Genitsu] Kita, at Kyoto, whose studies of fermentation are well known... The original account of the experiments was published in Chinese, with illustrations, in December, 1928, in the Agricultural Journal of the Agricultural College, National Central University, Nanking. Mr. Wais present paper, an abstract of the original, is the rst presentation in English. Note 3. The mold Mucor sufu was renamed (actually, rst reported as being identical to) Actinomucor elegans in 1965 (See Hesseltine, C.W. 1964. A millennium of fungi, food, and fermentation). Address: National Hygienic Lab. [Shanghai], China. 114. Nouelle, Georges. 1929. Les emplois du soja [Uses of soybeans]. Annales Coloniales (Les) No. 137. Sept. [Fre]* 115. Wilson, Sadie Mai. 1929. What do you know about China? A source book of materials. Nashville, Tennessee: Cokesbury Press. 266 p. Illust. 20 cm. [56* ref] Summary: In Chapter 7, Recipes, the section titled Home life in China: Dining, states (p. 256): The Chinese are rated among the best cooks in the world... Vegetables are cut up and stewed in oil (usually [soy] bean oil), or with meat that has rst been cut into small pieces. Soy-bean sauce is a favorite seasoning. It should be understood that the people of China have never heard of chop suey, which is an American concoction. Page 257: A more elaborate menu might consist of oranges, water chestnuts, peanuts (fried in oil and served cold), watermelon seeds, rice, salted chicken cold, salted
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU pork, clover leaf and bamboo, sh with rich gravy, sharks n, and fermented bean-curd soup. In a Chinese meal, the fruits and sweetmeats come rst, and if there is soup, it comes last. Page 258: Peanut oil, sesamum seed oil, and soy sauce are used instead of butter. Address: Assoc. Secretary of Missionary Education, General Sunday School Board, Methodist Episcopal Church, South. 116. Nouelle, Georges. 1930. Les emplois du soja [Uses of soybeans]. Revue Agricole (Guadeloupe) 3(4):118-20. April. Reprinted from Les Annales Coloniales, No. 137, Sept. 1929. [Fre] Summary: Describes the various food uses of the soybean, including soymilk, concentrated, powdered, or fermented soymilk, soy our, soy oil, soybeans consumed as a vegetable (fresh soybeans are prepared like peas), soy sprouts, soy sauces, soy confections, soy chocolate, and soy coffee. The soybeans also has uses other than for food, in making candles, colors, and in the form of Sojalithe as an electrical insulator. 117. Shen, Chennen. 1930. The importance of soybean. China Critic (The) = Chung-kuo Ping-lun Chuo Pao (Shanghai) 3(18):416-19. May 1. [Eng] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Domestic consumption of soybeans. Foreign consumption of soybeans. Future prospects. Soybean, called yellow bean in China, is cultivated in all parts of the country, but most abundantly in Manchuria. While in 1913 the export of soybean amounted only to about ten percent of the total export and ranked next to silk and tea in importance, it has in sixteen years increased ve times in value, risen to twenty percent of the total export and taken the premier place in our export trade! No other commodity has ever experienced such an overwhelming prosperity in such a short time in the history of China. Everybody knows that we Chinese live on rice and wheat. But not everybody realizes that we live just as much on soybeans. The soybean is consumed in large quantities by the northerners as well as by the southerners. Its numerous forms of preparations are common articles of food found in every household. Recent scientic investigations have shown that the soybean satises a particular requirement in the Chinese dietary. The human body is like a machine. It needs carbohydrates and fats for fuel and motive power, and protein for repairing worn-out parts. A table compares the nutritional composition of soybean, rice and wheat. It is evident that soybean is entirely different from either wheat or rice. Whereas wheat and rice supply carbohydrates in the form of starch, soybean is mainly the source of protein. It is interesting to note that the poorer class of people in
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China consumes very little meat but seems to have sufcient amount of protein. Remembering that every Chinese takes a large amount of soybeans in various forms of preparation, we can readily understand how the protein requirement is satised. As soybean contains more than twice as much protein as does any meat and is much cheaper, we can satisfy our protein requirement at one-tenth of the cost of meat. Exact data regarding soybean production in China are lacking. The Manchurian crop is more accurately estimated at 5,200,000 tons [probably metric tons] in 1928. The production of soybean in all other provinces has been estimated at 2,000,000 tons by Horvath and 10,000,000 tons by Marakujew [in Russian]. The total exports of soybeans, soybean oil and soybean cake is about 3,500,000 tons, leaving 3,750,000 to 11,750,000 tons for domestic consumption. The consumption per capita is thus 20 to 65 lbs. per year. These two gures at least represent the two extremes. Marakujews gure is probably nearer to the actual. These 65 lbs. of soybean are used: - 1. As soybean oil. 2. As soybean milk, a very popular drink in China, which is to the Chinese as cows milk is to the Westerners. The process for making this milk is described briey and a table compares its nutritional composition with human milk and cows milk. The composition of the three are very similar. One of the products of soybean milk is the pellicula (CC = Chinese characters given) (doufu-pi [yuba]) which is a thin sheet coagulated on the surface of the milk when it is heated. It is especially rich in protein and fat and used as a table delicacy. 4. As soybean curd (CC: doufu), one of the most universal preparations of the soybean. It is relished by the poor as well as the rich. When a coagulating agent like gypsum is added to the bean milk, a thick mass separates out. It is very similar to meat in chemical composition. A table compares the composition (only protein, fat, and carbohydrate on an as is basis) of soybean curd, beefsteak, pork chops, and eggs. Although the protein content of tofu is only half of that of meats, we see the economy of it even if we have to use a double quantity of it. The solid bean curd (CC: doufu gan) is more like meat as it contains less water than tofu and is also extensively used in China. 4. As soy sauce, another popular soybean preparation... Other fermentation products like the fermented soybeans (CC: douchi) and the fermented tofu (CC: furu) serve similar purposes. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term fermented soybeans to refer to these Chinese-style soy nuggets. 5. As a vegetable. Cooked [green vegetable] beans are also used by the Chinese but not very extensively. Experience has taught us that the cooked whole beans are not so digestible as tofu or other preparations. However, soybean sprouts, obtained by germination in water, are
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU highly digestible and contains the antiscorbutic vitamin C, which is lacking in the original seed. The chief demand for soybean in foreign countries is for the oil and the bean cake. The oil is used for either edible or technical [industrial] purposes and the cake is used as a fertilizer or as cattle feed. The soybean owes its popularity to its resemblance to cottonseed oil which is widely used in making soap, lard [substitutes] and oleomargarine. The rst shipment to Europe was attempted by Japanese in 1908. It was warmly received... Due to its peculiar smell, the raw soybean oil is rarely used in western countries for cooking. But now it is possible to rene this oil and render it entirely palatable to the western taste. It has been put on the market as salad and cooking oils. By the process of hydrogenation, the liquid oil can be transformed into a solid fat, which is an excellent substitute for animal lard [or butter]. Thus we see that in a period of twenty years, soybean has extended its usefulness from the Chinese dietary into industries of world-wide importance and is now one of the most valuable agricultural products not only of China but of the whole world. In Germany and Denmark articial milk is regularly manufactured from soybean and sold on a commercial scale. Soybean milk powder is also being manufactured. The soybean curd has also a good future, as it can be used to make meat substitutes. Articial meat has been prepared by a German soybean factory. The biggest possibility in the popularization of soybean as a food is the soybean our. From the bio-chemical point of view, white bread made from the wheat our is decient in protein and vitamins. Therefore a substance like soybean should be a valuable addition to the wheat our. In fact, half a dozen kinds of soybean our are already on the market in Europe and America. The phenomenal rise of the soybean as a universal article is not a matter of accident: It is the result of years of intensive scientic research. We should be thankful that we Chinese are not only the biggest consumer but also the biggest producer of this valuable article. But in the face of keen competition at the present time, we should look out lest this leguminous seed should fall into the same pit as did our silkworm and the tea plant. Up to the present we have been beneted by the researches of foreign countries and also the laboratories of the South Manchuria Railway and the Chinese Eastern Railway, whose immediate interests are not purely Chinese. Are we going to lead the world in soybean production? The future is by no means bright. Already the Chinese soybean oil mills are suffering due to their out-of-date equipment and inefcient process. America is rapidly increasing the acreage for soybean planting. When the American soybean crop is big enough to supply herself and other countries, China will have a difcult battle to ght. China should take an active part in studying and widening
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the usefulness of soybean as a food and as an industrial raw material. 118. Fortune.1930. Soy beans: Which may be glue, milk, cheese, sauce, varnish, axle grease, fertilizer, soap, soup, buttons, articial leather, enamel. 1(5):102, 104. June. Summary: Discusses the history of the soybean in various countries. Its uses in the United States are outlined. A plastic named Satolite is used to make combs and buttons. In Paris there is a cheese factory that makes Rocquefort [Roquefort] from soy bean curd. Soy bean milk has more proteins than cow milk and little danger of contamination. Its our contains four and one-half times more fat, four times more proteins, half as much water, and nearly half as many carbohydrates as the our of wheat. These chemical ingredients make it a food, more interesting, perhaps, than palatable. Though the milk is supposed to be good for one (it arrests cases of retrogression, causes normal growth), it has generally to be drunk sweetened with sugar. Soy bean sauces are better spiced. (For the Chinese taste Lean & Perrins Worcestershire is too hot. The Chinese themselves make their sauces by exposing the crushed bean to sunlight and actually melting it. Certain Korean sauces are thus matured thirty years before they are considered palatable.) But if the beans chemical make-up only indirectly contributes to its success as human food, it is nevertheless the basis of the beans industrial importance. Because of its nitrogen, the bean is valuable as fertilizer and also as poultry and stock feed. And the beans hereinbefore mentioned oil has proved of value to many a manufacturer of paints, enamels, lacquers, and even explosives. The Anglo-Chinese Company at Harbin and the Suzuki Mill at Dairen, both of which use chemical solvent extraction, have succeeded in extracting virtually all of the oil from the soybean; Manchurias traditional crude stone presses were able to extract only about half the soybeans oil content. Perhaps the greatest economic and industrial triumph of the soy bean occurred, oddly enough, in Denmark. Until some thirty years ago this pleasant country was more than self-supporting in the production of cereals, especially wheat. But U.S. mass production and low prices made for perilous and in some cases disastrous competition, even in Denmarks home markets. The Danes bethought themselves of raising live stock, imported the soy bean (using the oil for its usual purposes), and used it as feed for their live stock and poultry. Today 70 per cent of Denmarks export trade consists of live stock and animal products: milk, butter, cheese, bacon, ham, eggs, and the like. And for their countrys regained economic health Danes give thanks to the soy bean... In the United States the paramount importance of soy bean is still its agricultural use. But it is signicant that 75 per cent of the soy bean oil consumed in United States is being used by paint and varnish industries and in
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU manufacture of linoleum, oil cloth, articial leather. Lesser quantities are utilized in printers ink, liquid soaps. Few soy beans are imported into this country. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen that contains the term mass production. 119. Dorsett, P.H.; Morse, W.J. 1930. Pickled soybean curd, red and white [Fermented tofu] (Document part). In: P.H. Dorsett and W.J. Morse. 1928-1932. Agricultural Explorations in Japan, Chosen (Korea), Northeastern China, Taiwan (Formosa), Singapore, Java, Sumatra and Ceylon. Washington, DC: USDA Bureau of Plant Industry, Foreign Plant Introduction and Forage Crop Investigations. 8,818 p. Unpublished log. Summary: Page 6264 (24 Oct. 1930). While in Peiping, China, P.H. Dorsett writes: ... went to Hsi Tan Pailou Street in the northwestern part of the city before tifn where we found a number of kinds of bean curd and other soybean products... We got a number of still and motion pictures, also quite a collection of soybean products which we hope to get photographed during the afternoon. Page 6270. A photo shows several small crocks (about 15 cm {5.7 inches} in diameter) in a small carrying case. Dorsett names them Pickle: soybean curd, white and pink... Peiping, China... Red chiang toufu and white chiang toufu... Chinese name Tu ju [Fu ju = Furu], meaning curd milk (neg. #46120). Page 6271. A photo shows two crocks of about the same size, one with a tied paper lid, the other open at the top. White pickled beancurd. Peiping, China... Chinese name, chiang toufu (white). Small blocks of bean curd placed in jar of rice wine and salt. Jar sealed and placed in sun, where curd cures for a year(neg. #46121). where curd cures for a year (neg. #46122). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms pickled beancurd or White pickled beancurd or Pink bean curd pickled or chiang toufu or Red chiang toufu or White chiang toufu or Tu ju to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Agricultural Explorers, USDA, Washington, DC. 120. Wei, Y.S. 1930. [On the microorganisms of fu-yu]. Hsueh-I Magazine 9(10):113. [Chi]* Summary: From the well-know foodstuff fu-yu or preserved, fermented soybean curd, the author isolated the same species of Mono-Mucor from different samples obtained from Shaoshing (in Chekiang province) and Suchow (in Kiangsu province).
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121. Yamazaki, Momiji. 1931. Shina-san hakk kinrui no hakk kagaku-teki seishitsu no kogai [Studies on fermentation of the fermentable fungi of China]. Jozogaku Zasshi (J. of Brewing, Osaka) 9:12-25, 84-103, 174-93, 25870. [Jap] Summary: Mentions the mold genera Rhizopus, Mucor, Aspergillus, and Monilia. Address: Ngaku Hakase, Japan. 122. Mao, Pi-chiang. 1931. The reminiscences of Tung Hsiao-wan. Translated into English by Pan Tze-yen (Z.Q. Parker). Shanghai, China: Printed by the Commercial Press, Ltd. xv + 159 p. See p. 64. 19 cm. [21* ref] Summary: Page 64: The red bean-curd, after being baked and stewed ve or six times and turning crisp, should be stripped of its outer coat and mixed up with some kind of avour. It will be edible in a few days, and its taste far excels that stored at Kienning * for three years. (Footnote: *Allusion too vague to be interpreted). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term red bean-curd (or red bean curd). It probably refers to a type of fermented tofu. Note 2. The author, Mao Pi-chiang (lived 1611-1693) was an eminent Chinese scholar who lived towards the end of the Ming dynasty. This is a memoir of his deceased concubine, the famous Tung Hsiao-wan, whose beauty and accomplishment were such that she did not die in the prime of her life, but was forcibly carried away from her husband by the Manchu emperor Shun Chih (p. ix). His concubine even met his wife (p. 47). Address: Ming dynasty, China. 123. Ochse, J.J. 1931. Vegetables of the Dutch East Indies. Buitenzorg (Bogor), Java: Archipel Drukkerij. xxxvi + 1005 p. See p. 366, 389-93, 398, 407-08, 732, 943-71. An entirely revised and greatly enlarged second edition of his Tropische Groenten (1925). Translated by Mr. C.A. Backer. Illust. 25 cm. Index. [10 ref. Eng] Summary: This translation (by Mr. C.A. Baker, the reputed ex-Botanist for the ora of Java) of Ochses classic may
Page 6272. A photo shows two crocks of about the same size, one with a tied paper lid, the other open at the top. Pink bean curd pickled... Peiping, China... Chinese name, chiang toufu (red). Small blocks of bean curd placed in jar of rice wine and salt with red rice [fermented red rice; angkak] (produced by fungus growth). Jar sealed and placed in sun,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU be taken as an entirely revised and much enlarged second edition of Tropische Groenten (Tropical Vegetables), which booklet was published in July 1925. The author, a Dutchman who conned his research to Java and Madoera, described the tempeh-making process in detail, saying that the mold used was Aspergillus oryzae and that it was obtained from a former batch of tempeh. Page 366 discusses ontjom (tmp boongkil in Javanese), tetmp, and dag, all made from peanuts. Page 372 notes that the pigeon pea (Cajanus cajan) can be used to make tmp bosok. Pages 389-93 discuss the soya bean, which has various names in local languages. Malay: Katjang djepoon or Kedele. Javanese: Dekeman or Dekenan, Dele, Demekan, Gadele, Kedele, Kedoongsool, or Dangsool. Sundanese: Kadele, Katjang booloo, Katjang djepoon, Katjang kadele. Madura: Kadhele, Kadhellee, or Kedeleh. A description of the plant is given. Illustrations show: (1) A young soybean plant with leaves and pods (half size). (2) A bamboo scaffolding or curing frame, in tripod form with 3 horizontal supports, used for drying bunches of soybeans. Soybeans come in two main forms: Light yellowishbrown seeds, and black seeds. The latter are used to make ketjap (Indonesian soy sauce). Of the ripe seeds plas (Jav.) is made, by mixing them with grated young coconut [coconut], salt, and other ingredients. The mixture is wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed. The seeds can also be roasted and afterwards pounded. The boobook [bubuk, roasted soy our], boobook or boobookan (Jav.) is eaten in the shape of powder, usually with the addition of lombok and other ingredients. The seeds are mixed with a porridge of rice-meal and water and afterwards fried in coco-nut oil. This dish is called rempeyek (Jav.). It consists of brown slices in which the black kedele-seeds are scattered. Rempeyek is eaten either as a delicacy or with the rice table. Tmp [tempeh, p. 391] is a much used product. In East- and Central-Java it takes the same place as the ontjom in West-Java. It is prepared in much the same way as ontjom, and the reaction is brought about by the same fungus, Rhizopus Oryzae, Went et Prinsen Geerligs, which is transmitted by ragi. The seeds are cooked and, after they have cooled, put in a basket. By stirring, rubbing and even by treading, coupled with repeated washing with fresh water, one tries to remove the testa from the seeds. When this has been done, the seeds are put on hurdles (sasak) covered with banana- or waroo-leaves. Now the so-called beeang, i.e. rests of the fungus used for a former batch, is sprinkled over them and the mass is turned over on other sasaks. The tmp-cakes treated in this way are kept within doors and after two or three days the fungus has spread sufciently for giving a light grey colour to the cakes, which then are soft and dry and ready for use. They are sold on the markets either cut into small pieces or divided at
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pleasure, according to the amount of money the buyer wishes to spend. Tmp is used, fried, in the sayor or prepared with all sorts of ingredients. Other products for the native market are tahoo [tofu] and takoh [pressed tofu; Chinese: doufugan]. Both are eaten either boiled or cut into small slices, fried and added to gadogado or, lombok rawit being added, as a side dish. For the preparation of tahoo or takoh the seeds are soaked, ground ne, boiled and pressed through a cloth. The juice which is pressed out is mixed with salt, vinegar, coconut milk or with unburned gypsum (so-called batoo tao), imported from China. By this treatment a white gelatinous mass is formed, which, after cooling, can be cut into pieces. Wet tahoo does not keep well for a long time. For this reason it is soon made into takoh. For this purpose the tahoo is cut into pieces, folded in pieces of cloth, pressed in order to remove part of the water and next boiled in a decoction of koonir [turmeric]. The product obtained in this way has an intense yellow color and is a much relished delicacy, especially with lombok rawit [ery dwarf chilies]. Taotjo [Indonesian-style miso] is a porridge made of soybeans and rice meal. The soybeans are soaked, dehulled (the testa removed), cooked, and left to cool. Then they are mixed with the meal of rice (regular or glutinous), which has been previously roasted. The porridge obtained in this way is poured on winnows (tampah [winnowing trays]) covered with waroo-leaves, sprinkled with ragi or beeang, probably of Aspergillus Wentii, Wehmer, and covered with leaves. The lled tampahs are piled on each other and left alone till the cakes are very mouldy. Then they are dried in the sun, soaked in brine and mixed with sirup of arn [sugar palm] and with tap [tapai; a sweet fermented cake] of rice and glutinous rice. Next the porridge is placed out of doors. After the seeds have become soft by this treatment, which takes three or four weeks, the taotjo is ready for use. Taotjo must be boiled, otherwise the smell is to strong. It is eaten with cooked or raw vegetables. It is used for dressing some dishes of meat or sh, whilst it is also a material of which diverse side dishes are made. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the word taotjo to refer to Indonesian-style miso. According to De Bie (1901), tao djee [tao dji; doushi, douchi] is taotjo alternating with layers of cooked whole kadel-seeds. This stuff is put into a pot or basin with some salt and boiled arn-sugar. The mass is left to itself during a few days till the taotjo has become pervaded by the salt and the sugar and has assumed a uniformly brown colour. Note 2. Tao djee [doushi] is soy nuggets, which are not the same as Taotjo [Indonesian-style miso]. De Bie (1901) seems to have made a mistake. Of the black kadel-seeds soya [soy sauce] is made, exclusively by the Chinese and the natives. First the seeds are cooked in a strong solution of salt. After diverse
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU manipulations the cooked seeds are mixed with arnsugar and so-called soya-condiments and the mixture is concentrated till the salt begins to crystallize. By diluting this product with more or less water one obtains the diverse qualities of ktjap or soya found in commerce. The Pemimpin Pengoesaha tanah of 15 Jan. 1915 lists various ingredients that can be used with black soybeans in making ketjap. Young seedlings, obtained, like taog [taug, soy / bean sprouts], by fermenting, are called ketjambah kedele; they are cooked and eaten as petjel (Jav.) with the rice (ganteng, Jav.) Finally young leaves of Kadele can be eaten, raw or steamed, as lalab. Page 398 describes dag and tmp bengook made from these seeds of the velvet bean (Mucuna pruriens). Roasted tempeh are also discussed. Pages 407-08 states that the seeds of the Katjang oji (rice bean) can be used for the preparation of tempeh. Pages 414-15 state that, when they have no soybeans, the Chinese use mung beans (Katjang eedjo) to make tofu and takoah, but they are most widely used to make mung bean sprouts (taog). Page 634 mentions tmp bosok (overripe tempeh) made with the foul-smelling bruised leaves of the plant Paederia foetida. Page 732 also mentions overripe tempeh. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 1998) which contains detailed information about tempeh, or which refers to tempeh as tmp. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word tahoo or the word takoh to refer to tofu. Address: Buitenzorg (Bogor), Java, Indonesia. 124. Yang, Ximeng; Tao, Menghe. 1931. A study of the standard of living of working families in Shanghai. Peiping: Institute of Social Research. 86 + lvi p. See p. xxxii. 23 cm. Series: Social Research Publications, Monograph No. III. Facsimile edition reprinted in 1982 by Garland Publ. Co. (New York). [40 ref] Summary: Note 1. On the title page, the authors names are given as Simon Yang and L.K. Tao. Contents: Part I: General results. Part II: Statistical tables. In Part I, section IX is titled The standard of living food (p. 47-55). The 2nd most important type of food, after (a) Cereals and products is (b) Legumes and products, which states (p. 48): Of beans, the young soy bean (Chinese characters: mao dou) formed the principal kind, but among the bean products, bean sprouts, bean curds of various makes and mung bean starch were consumed in considerable quantities. Page 49: (g) Fat and oil: Bean oil [soy] formed the most important article in this class, of which the average consumption was 4.78 catties (2.8 kg) per family per month.
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Lard, the second in order, lagged far behind... (h) Condiments: Salt and soy sauce were the principal articles of this class. Page 50: Whereas rice accounts of 44.6% of total expenses, legumes and products account for only 7.6%. More rice and legume statistics appear on page 53. In Part II, Statistical tables, six long tables mention soy as follows: I. Average quantity of and expenditure for the principal articles purchased per family per month, by income groups (p. ii-iii): Yellow soy bean sprouts, 0.15 expenditures. Soy bean curd, 0.26. Sheet bean curd, 0.18 [pressed tofu sheets, pai-yeh or chien-chang]. Bean curd, fried, 0.10. Bean curd, dried [doufu gan] 0.16. Soy bean oil, 1.19. Soy bean sauce 0.38. II. Average quantity of and expenditure for the principal articles purchased per family in each of the twelve months under investigation (p. viii-xxx): There are entries for: Yellow soy bean sprouts, 1.87 annual expenses. Soy bean curd, 3.14. Sheet bean curd, 2.15. Bean curd, fried, 1.19. Bean curd, dried [doufu gan] 1.95. Yellow soy bean, 0.38. Young soy beans with pods [mao dou, edamame], 0.81. III. Average quantity of and expenditure for the other articles of food purchased per family in a year (p. xxxii, xxxvii). Bean curd, fermented, odorous, 0.05 annual expense [chou toufu]. Soy bean milk, 0.17. Fried beans, with salt, 0.21. Fermented bean curd, fried, 0.05. Bean curd skin, 0.02. Bean curd, fermented, with fragrant malt, 0.05. Bean curd, frozen, <0.005 [tung-toufu, ping-toufu]. Bean curd skin, cooked in skein forms, <0.005. Dried bean curd, fried, 0.005. Bean curd, fermented, 0.6. Soft bean curd, 0.05. Soy bean dregs, 0.02 [okara?]. Sheet bean curd, in skein [netlike] forms, > 0.005. Soy bean paste, 0.01. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word odorous or the term Bean curd, fermented, odorous to refer to chou toufu. VI. Average quantity and fuel value of food consumed per family in a year (p. l-li). This table has 6 columns. (1) Classes and articles of food. (2) Quantity, total (grams). (3) Quantity of protein, grams. (4) Quantity of fat, grams. (5) Quantity of carbohydrates, grams. (6) Fuel value, calories. Note 2. For soy products we will give only the quantity / amount purchased each year per person in grams. Yellow soy bean sprouts, 34,229. Soy bean curd, 55,080. Sheet bean curd 8,34. Bean curd, fried, 6,163. Bean curd, dried, 13,218. Yellow soy bean, 2,407. Mung bean sprouts, 15,257. Note 3. The weight of mung bean sprouts purchased was less than half (44.5%) the weight of yellow soy bean sprouts purchased. Young soy beans with pods, 7,180. Bean curd, fermented, odorous, 364. Soy bean milk, 6,963. At the end of the book is a very interesting bibliography of the best books on Chinas economic and social development, divided into these periods: China during the interregnum [Republic of China] (1912-1949). Modern Chinese economy: The late imperial period (late 19th and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU early 20th centuries), the agrarian economy, foreign trade and investment, 20th century economic development, labor and the economy. The wartime economy and postwar problems. Note 4. This book would have been much more useful if the Chinese names of these foods (in both Chinese characters, and transliterated) had been given. We are unsure of the exact identity of: (1) Fried beans with salt. Are these salted, oil-roasted soybeans? (2) Bean curd fermented with fragrant malt vs. bean curd, fermented, odorous. Address: China. 125. Liu, P.W. 1932. Nyfu seiz-ch ni okeru kagaku henka ni tsuite [Chemical studies on the manufacture of fermented tofu]. Nihon Nogei Kagakkai Shi (J. of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan) 8(2):162-72. Feb. [9 ref. Jap] Summary: A very early Japanese study on fermented tofu which is called nyfu (milk + spoiled; the fu of tofu) in Japanese, but written Su Fu, bean curd preserved in roman letters. From both red and white nyfu (preserved, fermented tofu) obtained from Hankow, the author found some species of Aspergillus, Penicillium, Alternaria, Cladosporium, Saccharomyces, Bacillus, and Streptococcus. He showed that the ripening of fermented tofu is caused by enzymes produced by the mold during the fermentation process. Address: Hokkaido Imperial Univ., Japan. 126. Liu, P.W. 1932. Kabi-dfu no kso ni tsuite [About the enzymes of fermented tofu]. Nihon Nogei Kagakkai Shi (J. of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan) 8(3):273-79. March. [Jap] Summary: Note: This is the earliest Japanese-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Kabi-dfu to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Hokkaido Teikoku Daigaku Nogakubu, Nosan Seizogaku Kenkyushitsu, Japan. 127. Liu, P.W. 1932. Kabi-dfu no kso ni tsuite [On the enzymes of mold-fermented tofu]. Nihon Nogei Kagakkai Shi (J. of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan) 8(3):273-79. March. [Jap] Summary: A detailed study of the enzymes of fu-yu, or preserved, fermented tofu. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Hokkaido Imperial University. 128. Williams, Edward Thomas. 1932. China yesterday and to-day. 5th ed., revised. New York, NY: Thomas Y. Crowell Co. xxiv + 743 p. Illust. (plates). Portraits. Map. Index. 22 cm. Previous editions were 1923, 1927, 1929. [369* ref] Summary: This remarkable, sympathetic and very comprehensive book has been revised to May 1932. The author has lived for many years in China, starting before the downfall of the Manchu Dynasty, and for 35 years has had close association with Chinese affairs. The 1st edition was published in 1923. While focusing on the Era of Reform
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(1902-1911) and the period of the Chinese Republic, established on 1 Jan. 1912 by Sun Yat-sen, the book contains many interesting features and appendixes, including a chronology of Important dates in Chinese history (p. 673680a), and a lengthy bibliography. In Chapter 8, The Craftsman, the section titled Bean curd states (p. 174-75): I stopped at a neighboring door to watch a great, lazy-looking water buffalo turning a heavy mill-stone grinding beans. In a shop down the street the bean our was being cooked, mixed with a little gypsum and turmeric to curdle it. The cooked paste, wrapped in cloths, was placed in a cheese press from which, after it should be properly solidied, it would be taken, cut into small cakes, and exposed for sale. It is the cheese of the Chinese and a very popular article of diet, rightly so, indeed, in a land where meat is too dear a luxury to be the daily food of the poor. There are several varieties of this bean-curd; one known as the stinking bean-curd rivals the choicest cheeses of Europe in odor. At an oil-mill another variety of [soy] beans was being ground and pressed for its oil. The refuse nds a ready sale for fertilizing purpose. Vegetable oils are in great demand in China for culinary and other domestic purposes, animal fats not being abundant enough to supply the need. Besides [soy] beans, cotton-seed, rape-seed, peanuts, a variety of tea, or camellia seed, hemp-seed, sesamum, seed of the castor oil plant and nuts of the wood-oil tree are all used for this purpose. The oils of the cotton, rape, beans, hemp and peanut are all used in cooking, and the bean and rape-seed oils are also used for lamps [illumination]. The lamp of the poor man is merely a shallow cup with a spout at one side, like the classic lamp of ancient Rome. A piece of rush pith is placed in it for a wick. The soja bean is used for making soy, the common sauce of the rich and poor alike. It is said to have been suggested to the English [for] the manufacture of their Worcestershire and other sauces. Note: This is also the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term stinking bean-curd. Address: Agassiz Prof. of Oriental Languages and Literature, Univ. of California, Berkeley, California; Formerly American Charg dAffaires, Peking, China; Recently Chief of the Division of Far Eastern Affairs, Department of State (U.S.). 129. Orosa, Maria Y. 1932. Soybeans as a component of a balanced diet and how to prepare them. Manila (Philippines) Bureau of Science, Popular Bulletin No. 13. 53 p. [16 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. The cooking of soy beans (89 Filipino recipes, p. 7-35), incl. roasted soy beans, soy-bean soups etc.most recipes use whole soybeans, but quite a few use tofu (tokua), soy sauce (toyo), soy-bean our, or soy-bean milk, and a few use tahuri (brine fermented tofu) or soy-bean sprouts. Some common foods made from soy beans and methods of preparing them (p. 35-53): Soy-bean milk, condensed soy-bean milk, soy-bean milk powder, soy-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bean casein, soy-bean curd (tofu; tokua or toqua). Tahuri or tahuli (fermented tofu). Frozen tofu. Bean curd brains or tofu nao. Dry bean curd or topu khan (tofu-kan, dipped in burnt millet sauce and rubbed with ne salt). Fragrant dry bean curd. Thousand folds (thin layers of fresh tofu pressed in cheesecloth. On standing, the thousand folds mold and develop a meatlike avor. This is fried in sesame oil and served in place of meat). Fried bean curd. Soy sauce (called by the Chinese chau yau, or drawing oil; or pak yau or white oil by the Japanese shoyu; and the Filipinos, toyo). Natto. Hamanatto (p. 49). Yuba. Miso. Soy-bean our. Soy-bean oil (used in the manufacture of lard and butter substitutes; also in paints, printing inks, etc.). Soybean meal. Soy-bean coffee. Soy-bean sprouts. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term soy-bean casein (or soy bean casein or soybean casein), probably to refer to soybean protein. When and by whom the soy bean was rst introduced into the Philippines, no one can ascertain. The Filipino people have long known some important soy-bean preparations, such as soy sauce, or toyo, bean curd, or tokua, fermented bean curd or tahuri, not knowing that they were prepared from this bean. The seed is known in some parts of the Philippines, where it is grown, as utao. The main object of this pamphlet is to encourage the Filipino people to use more soy beans, and preparations made from them as food (p. 3-4). Soy beans are grown in some parts of the Philippines. According to Doctor Roxas, Director of the Bureau of Plant Industry, 2,481 tons were grown in Batangas in 1921 and 4,218 tons, in 1930. However, the importation of soy beans in 1924 was 4,657 tons. Doctor Roxas says that soybeans can be grown in all parts of the Philippines (p. 6). Immature soy beans may be cooked in the same way as lima beans (patani) (p. 7). The soy-bean curd was rst produced by Whai Nain Tze, before the Christian Era and was introduced into Japan from China by the Buddhists. It was introduced into the Philippines by the Chinese and has become a very popular food in Manila and in places where there are Chinese who manufacture it for sale. Tokua on account of its high fat, protein, and mineral content, is called by the Chinese as meat without bone, or the poor mans meat. The Chinese use burnt gypsum (about 1.5% by weight) as a coagulant. In some cases, the curds are wrapped in individual pieces of ne cheesecloth about the size of a small handkerchief, then pressed lightly for a few minutes. They are unwrapped, spread on shallow bamboo trays (bilao) and partially dried at room temperature. Then they are dipped in a weak solution of turmeric to coat the outside in light yellow coloring. Some manufacturers soak the small cakes of curd in brine solution for a short time, then dip them in a solution of burnt sugar or molasses and bake them slightly before putting them on the
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market. 100 gm of dry soybeans typically yield 350 gm of tofu (tokua) (p. 41). The section titled Tahuri or Tahuli begins with 2 paragraphs and ends with a table very similar to those from Gibbs and Agcaoili (1912): Tahuri is manufactured in China and exported to the Philippines in large stone jars or in small tin cans. There are some tokua manufacturers in Manila that manufacture tahuri for local consumption. Those that are imported from China are preserved in strong brine solution and the cakes are broken during the shipment so the liquid becomes like a thick emulsion containing pieces of the cured curd. It then contains a new paragraph: In Manila, the Chinese method of manufacture is to pack the large pieces of soy-bean curd, about 5 inches long, 4 inches wide, and 2.5 inches thick, with much crude salt, in empty gasoline cans. The curd is allowed to cure for a period of several months. During the curing period the bean curd changes from white to a brownish yellow color and develops a peculiar salty avor to which the Chinese and many Filipinos are educated (p. 42). Note 2. No information about a fermentation microorganism or process is given. The bean curd brains known to many Filipinos as tojo is the unpressed soy-bean curd. The method of making tojo is almost the same as the method used in making tokua, only that a smaller amount of the coagulating agent is used, and the very soft but solid mass formed is left undisturbed in the wooden container until used. The Chinese used to peddle this preparation in a wooden pail-shaped container, through different parts of Manila, but on account of the Philippine Health Service regulations, this product is now sold in the markets only. / The tojo is served with a few tablespoonfuls of medium thick brown-sugar syrup, which gives it avor, the tojo being almost tasteless. Sometimes it is eaten with sweet oil, sauce, and vinegar, or with nely cut meat and spices. (p. 43). Dry bean curd: The fresh bean curd when dipped in burnt millet-sugar sauce and rubbed with ne salt will keep longer than the tokua and is called topu khan. This preparation is usually eaten is soups. Fragrant dry bean curd or hsiang khan (fragrant dry) has the consistency of smoked sausage. It is made by subjecting the fresh bean curd to great pressure, which eliminates much of the water content. The pieces of semidry curd are soaked in a weak brine solution in which is dissolved burnt millet-sugar and to which is added powdered spices. The curd is then dried to hardness. This preparation keeps indenitely and is used in soup making and in vegetable dishes (p. 43). Note 3. Cruz and West (1932, p. 78) state that as part of a campaign by the Bureau of Science to encourage the Filipino people to use more soy beans, Miss Orosa has made excellent cakes, cookies, puddings, sauces, soups, custards, ice cream, and other tasty preparations from Philippine soy beans.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note 4. The author pioneered the branch of the branch of the Home Extension Service in which home demonstrators helped women in solving their home problems. She started the organization as a food preservation unit under the Bureau of Science in 1923, starting with six home demonstrators that she herself trained. That group became the forerunner of the Home Extension Service in the Philippines. For details on her work see: In: A Half Century of Philippine Agriculture. Manila, Philippines: Liwayway Publishing. p. 236-37. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2003) that contains the word meatlike. Note 6. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the word Hamanatto to refer to soy nuggets. Orosas description of Hamanatto is based on that of Sawa (1902). Address: Chief, Div. of Food Preservation, Bureau of Science, Manila. 130. Searle, Townley. 1932. Strange newes from China: A rst Chinese cookery book. With 101 rare and choice Chinese recipes and decorations by the author. London: Alexander Ouseley, Ltd. 231 p. Illust. 22 cm. Summary: Page 83 states that Chow means fry, Too Foo is Bean Curd, and the Chop Suey, although not real Chinese (see Encyclopedia) stands for almost any mixed dish. Soy-related recipes in include: Tou fu hah chi tongBean curd and prawn soup (p. 92; The author states: In trying this recipe we used tinned prawns: Beneath the trade-mark of the tin was the following warning against infringement: If any man imitate this mark, may his sons be thieves and his daughters prostitutes.). Tou fu yuk ming tongBean curd and meat soup (p. 93). Tou fu gai pin tong Bean curd and sliced chicken soup (p. 95). On pages 108-09 are the names and prices of many Chinese foodstuffs, including Chinese soya sauce (1 lb. or 3 lb. net)$0.25 or $0.45 per jug, Chinese bean sauce$0.15 per can, Chinese red bean curd$0.18 per can, Dried Chinese beanstick [yuba]$0.22 per lb., Chinese bean cheese [fermented tofu]$0.50 per jar, Chinese bean cake [tofu] $0.30 per can. The Encyclopedia (p. 215-17) contains descriptions or denitions of the following: Chop Suey (an American Pidgin English term originally coined in San Francisco...). Tou foo (see Bean curd). Soya beanGlycine hispida (One of the most valuable foods in the world. Flour made from the soya bean has immense value as a foodstuff as it contains the only plant albumen which is equal in value to the very much more expensive animal albumen. The Chinese soak the beans in water, then roast them and eat them in much the same way as peanuts. It is claimed that the soya bean will soon become the chief food of the civilised world as it contains a large proportion of protein which is as valuable as the casein in milk... The best way to cook the soya is undoubtedly by means of a pressure-cooker...). Bean sprouts (come from the seeds of the soya and can be used as
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green vegetables all the year round. Describes how to make them). Bean curd (It is of about the same consistency as ordinary thick cream cheese and is ordinarily used fried with vegetables etc. in lard and in omelettes etc.). 131. Sokolsky, George E. 1933. Peiping: Mirror of Chinas vast drama. Again the ancient capital becomes the focal point of the nations struggle with an invader. New York Times. June 4. p. SM4-6 (Sunday magazine). Summary: Peking is two cities. One the public city of teeming highways and loud vendors. The other, the Legation Quarter, is cold, rigid and formal, with cement roads. Here there are no jolly noises, no funeral or wedding processions with loud music; no street vendors selling stinking bean curds [fermented tofu; chou doufu] or sugar candy. 132. Boletin de Agricultura y Trabajo (Nicaragua Ministerio de Agricultura y Trabajo).1933. Soya o soja (Soja Hspida Moench) [Soya or soja]. 5(48):19-20. June. 2nd Series. [Spa] Summary: Contents: Introduction and history of the soybean (it is also called soya), with its extension in the United States. Climate. Soil. Fertilizer. Inoculation. Varieties widely cultivated in the USA (Biloxi, Peking, Virginia and Wilson Five for hay and ensilage. Ito-San, Manchu, Mandarin, and Tokio [Tokyo] for seed. Hahto for use as a food legume at the table {legumbre de mesa}). Uses of the plant: Green manure, forage, pasture (pastaderos), hay, green forage. Food products made from the seeds: Flour, oil, soy sauce, cooked whole soybeans, coffee substitutes, soups, soybean roasts or steaks (soyas asadas), porridge or mush, soymilk (leche vegetal), condensed soymilk, fresh soymilk, casein, confections, soy cheese (tofu; fresh, dry, smoked, or fermented; queso fresco, seco, ahumado, fermentado). Food products: Dry soybeans (semillas secas) are used to make soy sauce, cooked soybeans, coffee substitutes, soups, roasted soybeans, vegetable milk [soymilk], condensed milk, fresh milk, casein, confections or sweets, and soy cheese ([tofu] fresh, dried, smoked, or fermented), and green vegetable soybeans (semillas verdes) are cooked and canned or served in salads. Enemies of the soybean. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2009) concerning soybeans in connection with (but not yet in) Nicaragua. Note 2. This is the earliest Spanish-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls queso fermentado. Note 3. This is the earliest Spanish-language document seen (June 2009) that uses the term semillas verdes to refer to green vegetable soybeans. 133. Bemis, Albert Farwell; Burchard, John Ely, 2nd. 1933. The evolving house. Cambridge, Massachusetts: The Technology Press, Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT). Illust. Index. 24 cm.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: Volume I is A History of the Home (xxxi + 502 p.). In Part III, Modern Homes of the World, Chapter 18 is Asiatic Homes. In the section titled Chinese (p. 328+) we read (p. 334): Famine stalks through the land at frequent intervals despite the simple wants of the people. The wealthy on the other hand eat unusual foods, which if taken in ignorance are not unpleasing to the Western palate. A typical company dinner in the home of a well-to-do man may consist of sake and oranges, water chestnuts, peanuts fried in oil and served cold, watermelon seed, uncooked goose eggs four years old, cold salted chicken, salted pork, clover leaf and bamboo forming a dish like spinach, sh with gravy, sharks n, and a fermented bean curd soup, in the order named. 134. Buck, Pearl S. 1933. The rst wife and other stories. New York, NY: The John Day Co. 312 p. See p. 52. 20 cm. Summary: A book of short stories. In this one, titled The rst wife, the elderly maidservant asks (p. 52): Is there any other dainty for the young master? The wife replies: He likes the red bean curd better than the whitethe curd with red pepper. Have the red today and the best tea. 135. Phillips, J.B. 1934. The utilization of the soya bean. J. of the Society of Chemical IndustryChemistry & Industry Transactions and Abstracts (London) 53(29):627-28. July 20. Summary: This article is based on a Lecture delivered before the Montreal [Canada] Section of the Society of Feb. 21, 1934. It contains a short overview of soybean history, nutritional composition, and utilization (for feed, food, and industry), plus some statistics. In the USA some soybeans are ground into our and used in such articles as bread, macaroni, sausage, chocolate, baby food, etc. Most of the beans which are not used for forage are crushed and the oil separated... The annual consumption of soya bean oil in the United States is approximately as follows (in million lb): For paints and lacquers 9.0; soaps and candles 9.0; cooking oil, mayonnaise, sardines, lecithin manufacture 5.0; linoleum and oilcloth 4.0; printing ink 3.5; oleomargarine and lard substitutes 1.5. In Manchuria, where the soya bean is a staple article of diet, little meat is eaten; the protein of the bean resembles that of meat and may very well be substituted for it. The uses of the oil cake are many and varied. When fermented, the meal produces a cheese which has a strong odour at rst, but which decreases with age. The soya meal, after being heated with lime and then treated with caustic soda, produces an adhesive which is quite water-resistant and is used extensively on the Pacic Coast in the manufacture of plywood. It is also used as a cement in the manufacture of insulating boards intended for use in refrigerators. The soya meal may also be treated with salt solution and borax and the protein extracted. After precipitation, a pure casein
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is obtained which may be used as sizing for paper and as an adhesive. Macaroni may contain as much as 30% soya our, which is also used in the manufacture of cocoa. Some chocolate bars are known to contain 60% of soya our. A plastic may be made from soya bean casein by the use of formaldehyde as in the case of milk casein. The soya bean is unique among vegetables in containing a relatively large amount of lecithin. The commercial product is found to contain about 70% true lecithin and 30% oil or fat. Lecithin is used in the chocolate and baking industries. Address: Dr. [Canada?]. 136. Kennedy, L.W. 1935. The soybean... A new American. Purdue Agriculturist (Indiana) 29(9):83, 86. June. Summary: This article was written with the aid of material taken from an undergraduate thesis submitted by E.A. Johnson, 34 [class of 1934]. Products of the soybean are rapidly becoming more important to agriculture and various manufacturing industries of the nation. Soybean oil meal is an important livestock feed for cattle, hogs, sheep, and poultry. It is also used extensively in the making of glue, water paints, fertilizer, celluloid substitutes, [plastic] gear shift knobs, etc. Breakfast food, diabetic food, infant food, macaroni, crackers, bean curd, soy sauce, vegetable casein, and meat substitute are popular in the list of foods made from soybean oil meal. The meal possesses a nut-like avor and lends itself well to be used as human food. Crude soy bean oil is dark brown in color and has a beany odor. It is largely rened to make special oils for use as paints, varnishes, glycerine, enamel, the waterproong of cloth, fabrics, papers, and sandpapers, the making of oilcloth, shade cloth, rubber substitutes, printers ink, lubricants, hard and soft soaps, insecticides, foundry core oil, and lighting fuels. The food products, salads, edible oils, and lard and butter substitutes are also prepared by a commercial process from soybean oil. In 1930 about 6,000,000 pounds of soybean oil, or one-sixth of the domestic crop, were used in the preparation of edible products. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2001) concerning the use of soybean oil in insecticides or other crop-protecting chemicals (pesticides). A new auto body nish from soybean oil is the result of experiments made by the Ford Motor Company of Detroit, Michigan. Also discusses the vegetable soybean which can serve as a supplement to the garden pea or lima bean. In China vegetable soybeans have long been used as a delicacy on the table. They may be used green, or canned, or made into salads. Dried soybeans serve as a good substitute for coffee and peanuts when properly roasted and prepared. The dried beans are also used in preparing soy sauce, boiled beans, baked beans, breakfast food, soaps, and vegetable
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU milk. From the vegetable milk, meat substitutes, infant food, confections, cheese, and fresh, dried, condensed, and fermented bean curd is prepared. Soybean milk has not received serious consideration in this country, but it has been successfully used as a food for growing infants in China. Address: Class of 1936. 137. Product Name: [Light House brand Soy Sauce, Soybean Jiang, Fermented Tofu]. Foreign Name: Jiang-you, Dou-jiang, Furu. Manufacturers Name: Yeo Hiap Seng. Manufacturers Address: 410 Outram Road, Singapore 3, Singapore. Date of Introduction: 1935. How Stored: Shelf stable. New ProductDocumentation: Letter from Alan Yeo of Yeo Hiap Seng. 1982. April; YHS news release 1990. Oct.; Letter from Charles Yeo of Yeo Hiap Seng. 1984 and 1991. Yeo Hiap Seng started in China in 1900. In 1935, during the Japanese invasion of China, when life was difcult and unsettled in Fukien [Fujian] province, Yeo Keng Lian sent his eldest son, Yeo Thian In, to Singapore to investigate possibilities there. The son founded the Yeo Hiap Seng Sauce Factory at 410 Outram Road, Singapore 3. He was joined shortly by the rest of the family. The company continued to make the same three fermented soy products that it had made since 1900 in China. In 1947 the growing business was moved into larger quarters at 950 Dunearn Road, its present location. The move out of China was a wise one, for in 1949 the three Yeo Hiap Seng plants in Fukien were taken over by the Chinese Communists. By the mid-1940s, Yeos quality soy sauce was a common sight in Singapore. Note: This is the earliest known commercial soy product made in Singapore, or in Southeast Asia. 138. Morphy, Marcelle. comp. and ed. 1935. Recipes of all nations. New York, NY: William H. Wise & Company. 824 p. 22 cm. Summary: Soy is mentioned frequently in the chapter on Japan. One sauce reigns supreme in JapanShoyu, which replaces salt in many dishes and which is used in the cooking of almost everything: soup, sh, poultry, meat, and vegetables. It is the popular condiment with cold sh or meat and is added to salad dressing. It is made from the Soya bean seeds, wheat, and pure salt, and has a pleasant and distinctive avor, unlike that of any of our European bottled sauces. Soy-related recipes include: Nan yoy kow yook (Broiled pork steamed with Chinese cheese [fermented tofu], p. 737). Misoshiru (miso soup with tofu and miso, p. 755). Misozuke (sh with red or white bean curd and red or white miso, p. 758). Seki han (with azuki beans, p. 759). Suki yaki [Sukiyaki] (beef and vegetables, with tofu and shoyu, p. 761). Yokan (Japanese cakes with azuki beans, p. 762). Misso (miso, homemade with soya beans, malt, and salt, p.
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763). Tofu (dried bean curd, p. 763). Miso is said to be made as follows: The proportions are 1 bushel of Soya beans, 1 bushel of malt, and 3 bushels of salt. The beans are squeezed and mixed with the malt and salt and kept in a cask for 6 months to mature. Concerning tofu: Cubes of tofu are frequently mentioned in Japanese recipes. Tofu is made by soaking the dry beans in water for a day, pounding them in a stone mortar, straining into square molds and mixing with brine. They are then boiled till they become hard and rm. Address: Countess. 139. Ramsbottom, J. 1936. The uses of fungi. British Association for the Advancement of Science, Annual Report. Sept. 9-16. p. 189-218. See p. 206-08, 212. 106th year. Summary: This was an address to Section K (Botany) of the British Association for the Advancement of Science at Blackpool, Sept. 10, 1936. Discusses: Koumiss (effervescent drink), Egyptian Leben, Arrack, Japanese koji, shoyu, tamari, and miso, fermented tofu. There is a wide range of oriental foods produced by fermentation with Aspergillus. Chinese curd, To-fu, is made from soy-bean milk fermented with mould and ripened in brine. The curd is cut into squares which soon become covered with fungus. They are then placed in brine for further ripening. The curd is canned as white or red squares in a salty liquid. In Japan, four large industries are built on the use of Aspergillus oryzae. Their approximate total yearly output is as follows: Sak (rice wine) 812,000 kiloliters, shoyu (soy sauce) 902,000 kiloliters, miso (soy cheese) 1,690,000 kilograms, and shocho (distilled alcoholic liquor) [sic, shochu or shch, cheap spirits] 39,700 kiloliters. The annual value of all the fermentation industries is approximately 40,000,000. Molds of the genus Penicillium play a large part in the ripening of the Camembert-Brie, and the RoquefortGorgonzola-Stilton series of cheeses. Milk is rst coagulated with rennet or dried calf-stomach linings. Also: Mycorrhiza, Takadiastase, production of glycerin and yeasts in Germany during World War I. Address: O.B.E., President of the Botany Section. 140. Hermano, A.J. 1936. Soybeans a national food for Filipinos. Agricultural Life (Exponent of Philippine Agriculture and Allied Industries) 3(9-10):21-23. Sept/Oct. Summary: Rice is the chief staple food of the Filipinos. But the local diet would be improved by the addition of soybeans and their products. In April 1934 the Nutrition Research Laboratory, Bureau of Science, began to manufacture soybean milk. The method is described, the milk was used with good results in experiments with school children in Paco. Presently 8 liters/day of soybean milk are prepared for the Tondo and San Nicolas Community Health Social
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Centers. The article concludes: Various soybean products, like tokua [tofu], toyo or sauce, tahore toho tohu and other products made by the Chinese are prepared in rather simple ways and could be easily made by the Filipinos. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the word tahore which probably refers to fermented tofu. Address: Chief, Nutrition Research Lab., Bureau of Science [Manila, Philippines]. 141. Gray, George Douglas. 1936. All about the soya bean: In agriculture, industry and commerce. London: John Bale, Sons & Danielsson Ltd. ix + 144 p. Introduction by James L. North. Late curator, Royal Botanic Gardens, Regents Park, London. Index. 28 cm. [19 ref] Summary: A comprehensive, early work on the soybean. Gray was a Scotch physician. Contents: 1. Introducing the soya bean. 2. The soya bean plant and its cultivation. 3. The soya bean as food: Dietetics, immature green beans, mature dried beans, soya bean coffee, soya bean chocolate, soya bean sprouts, soya bean milk, soya bean our (incl. Berczeller our, Soyvita bread made by Messrs. Wm. Beattie, Ltd., Glasgow), bean curd [tofu], soy (also called soya bean sauce, Chinese bean sauce, or shoyu), miso, fermented bean curd (p. 66-67). 4. Soya bean oil. 5. Soya bean trade. 6. The soya bean in agriculture. Addenda: Soya bean products in the USA. Dieting and recipes. Statistics. India. Bibliography. In the chapter on Soya bean oil we read (p. 75): In England, the bean oil trade is carried on by the following rms:The British Oil and Cake Mills Ltd., the ordinary shares of which are held by Lever Bros., Ltd., so that they are a branch of Unilever, Ltd. The Hull Oil Manufacturing Co., Ltd., Hull, now merged in the foregoing concern. The Premier Oil Extracting Mills, Ltd., Hull. Messrs. Wray Sanderson & Co., Hull. The Medina Renery Ltd., Deptford, London. Messrs. J. Bibby & Sons Ltd., Liverpool. The Erith Oil Works Ltd., Erith [Kent]. The rst addendum, titled Soybean products exhibited by the American Soybean Association (at Washington, DC, p. 120-24) lists the following companies and each of the soy products that they manufacture: American Lecithin Corp. (Atlanta, Georgia), Archer-Daniels-Midland Co. (Milwaukee, Wisconsin), Armstrong Paint and Varnish Works (Chicago, Illinois), Battle Creek [Food] Factory (Battle Creek, Michigan), The Blanton Co. (St. Louis, Missouri), Cereo Co. (Tappan, New York), The Davies-Young Soap Co. (Dayton, Ohio), Detroit Graphite Co. (Detroit, Michigan), Eastern Health Food Stores Association (Washington, DC), Funk Brothers Seed Company (Bloomington, Illinois), Harshaw Essential Foods, Inc. (Cleveland, Ohio), Keystone Macaroni Mfg. Co. (Lebanon, Pennsylvania), Kloss,
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Jethro (Takoma Park, Maryland: Fresh [soybean] milk. Pumpkin pie [soybean milk and soybean our]. Soybean cheese. Soybean bread [20% soybean our]. Soybean buns. Soybean sprouts. Soybean cake), Laucks, I.F., Inc. (Bloomington, Illinoishome ofce, Seattle, Washington), Madison Food Company (Madison, Tennessee; Vigorost, Cheese [Tofu], Soybeans canned with Tomato, Soybeans canned plain, Dixie Fruit Crackers), Mead Johnson and Co. (Evansville, Indiana; Makes Sobee [Infant Formula]), Oriental Show-You Co. (Columbia City, Indiana), Paintcraft Co. (Galesburg, Illinois), Prince Macaroni Mfg. Co. (Boston, Massachusetts), Purina Mills (St. Louis, Missouri; makes Cresol disinfectant, Purina turkey and growing fattening chow, Purina lay chow, Purina egg chowder, Purina breeder egg chowder, Purina tting chow, Purina rabbit chow, Purina chick Growena chow, Purina 34% cow chow, Purina chowder, Purina bulky cow chow, Purina 24% cow chow, Purina pig and hog chow, Protena all mash starting and growing food), Shellabarger Grain Products Company (Decatur, Illinois), Soyex Company, Inc. (Nutley, New Jersey), Staley Sales Corporation (Decatur, Illinois), The Stamford Rubber Supply Company (Stamford, Connecticut), Dr. Roy Monier, President, Board of Managers, State Hospitals (Jefferson City, Missouri), United Drug Company (Boston, Massachusetts), Vi-tone Company (Hamilton, Canada), Woolsey Paint and Color Co., C.A. (Jersey City, New Jersey), Bureau of Chemistry and Soils, Department of Agriculture (Washington, D.C.). Page 120 adds: The exhibit also contained some 200 soybean products, mostly foods, brought from the Orient by Mr. W.J. Morse, Senior Agronomist, Department of Agriculture, Washington, DC, U.S.A. Note: Morse and P.H. Dorsett were in East Asia from 1929 to 1931, when they collected many samples of soybeans and soyfoods. In the second addendum, recipes, the author notes that soy our is widely used in diabetic diets. Two leading rms who make soy our in England and who also incorporate it in various products are: Soya Foods, Ltd., Rickmansworth, Herts, and Dietetic Foods Ltd. 124 Victoria St., London, S.W. 1. The former specialize in Soyolk which is our prepared on the principles laid down by Professor Berczeller; it is a mealy powder, fatty to the touch. The latter rm are the sole distributors in Great Britain of the well-known Heudebert Dietetic Food products, a French concern which makes different kinds of diabetic breads. The following recipes are then given; * = Calls for Soyolk soy our: Soybeans, southern style. Soybean salad. Roasted soybeans [like dry-roasted peanuts]. Soybean croquettes. Soybean souf. Stufng for baked sh*. White sponge pudding*. Shortbread*. Madeira cake*. Soya soup la Reine (uses Heudebert soya our). Soya chocolate (with soya our). Soya vegetable soup (with soya our). Soya bean sprout salad. Note: This is the earliest English-language document
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU seen (Feb. 2000) that uses the term soya bean sprouts to refer to these sprouts. Address: M.D. (Scotch physician) England. Late medical ofcer to H.B.M. Legation, Peking, China. Lieut.-Colonel, Retired. 142. Institut International dAgriculture (International Institute of Agriculture). 1936. Le soja dans le monde [The soybean in various countries of the world]. Rome, Italy: Imprimerie de la Chambre des Deputes, Charles Colombo. viii + 282 p. Bibliography, p. 276-82. No index. 25 cm. [90 ref. Fre] Summary: A superb early work, containing extensive original information, looking at developments with soybeans and soyfoods country by country, worldwide. Contents. Preface (p. 1). A. Culture of soy (soja; p. 4): 1. Botanical description, selection, classication of the varieties. 2. Culture properly said. 3. Enemies and illnesses. 4. Culture in the various countries: 4a. The Americas (p. 38): Antigua, Argentina, Bermuda, Brazil, Canada, Chile, Colombia, Costa Rica, Cuba, Dominican Republic, Ecuador, USA (gives details on all varieties grown, and describes production, history, varieties, and cultural practices in North Carolina, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Maryland, Massachusetts, Mississippi, Missouri, New York, Ohio, West Virginia, Wisconsin, Conclusion), Guadeloupe, Guatemala, British Guiana, Dutch Guiana, British Honduras [Belize], Jamaica, Barbados, Martinique, Mexico, Montserrat, Peru, Puerto Rico, El Salvador, Trinidad and Tobago, Uruguay. 4b. Europe (p. 101): Germany, the Danubian countries, Austria, Spain, France, Great Britain, Hungary, Italy, Netherlands, Poland, Romania, Switzerland, Czechoslovakia, Turkey, USSR. 4c. Asia (p. 128): Ceylon, China and Manchuria, Cyprus, Federated States of Malaysia, British India (incl. Punjab, Bihar and Orissa, Burma, Berar, Madras Presidency, Bombay Presidency, Bengal (incl. Nepal, Bhutan, Sikkim, and the district of Darjeeling), Assam, North-West Frontier Province, United Provinces), Netherlands Indies, Indochina (incl. Tonkin, Annam, Laos, Cambodia, and Cochinchine), Japan, Palestine, Siam. 4d. Africa (p. 146): French West Africa, Algeria, Belgian Congo, Cyrenaica, Egypt, Eritrea, Madagascar, Morocco, Mauritius (Ile Maurice), Reunion (Runion), Rhodesia, Anglo-Egyptian Sudan, Tripolitania, Tunisia, Union of South Africa. 4e. Oceania (p. 153): Australia, Fiji Islands, Hawaii, New Caledonia, New Zealand, Philippines. B. Utilization of soya (p. 158): 1. The soybean in human nutrition and in industry: Whole soybeans, chart of the uses of whole soybeans, use of soya in the green state (green vegetable soybeans), soy sauce (dau-tuong of the Annamites, or toyo, named shoyu by the Japanese, or chau-yau or chiang yoo by the Chinese), condiments and sauces based on soya in the Netherlands Indies (tempe, ontjom, tempemori and tempe
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kedele [various types of tempeh and onchom, p. 168-70]), tao tjo [Indonesian-style miso], tao dji [soy nuggets], ketjap, ketiap benteng [Indonesian-style soy sauce], soymilk (le lait de soja), yuba (crme de lait de soja), tofu (le fromage de soja) and fermented tofu (des fromages ferments, made by Li Yu-ying near Paris), soymilk casein (casine du lait de soja, for industrial use, including vegetable albumin, or galalithe [galalith] [isolated soy protein], and articial wool), soy lecithin (lcithine de soja), soy our (la farine de soja, incl. soy bread, soy pastries, and soy cocoa). Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2010) that uses the term benteng ketiap benteng to refer to an Indonesian-style soy sauce. 2. Soy oil (p. 194): Food uses, industrial uses (including soaps, products resembling petroleum, paints, varnishes, linoleum, and articial rubber), extraction, directory of U.S. manufacturers of materials and equipment for soybean processing, directory of U.S. and Canadian manufacturers of food products based on soya (produits alimentaires base de soja, p. 205-06), directory of U.S. manufacturers of industrial soy products (p. 206-07). 3. Soybean in the feeding of domestic animals (p. 207): Forage, hay, silage, pasture, soybean seeds, the minerals in soybeans, soya as a feed for dairy cows, cattle, buffaloes, sheep, hogs, horses and mules, poultry. 4. Use of soya as fertilizer (p. 257). C. The trade of soya and of its by-products (p. 363): Production of soybeans in the principal countries, economic importance of soybean culture in the USA, soybean trade/commerce including tables of the major importers and exporters, and amounts traded annually in 1931-1934, price of soybeans, cost of production. List by region and country of people and organizations that responded to a questionnaire sent by IIA (p. 273-76). Bibliography of main publications consulted, listed by region and country of publication. Reunion (Ile de la Runion): The soybean (Le Soja) is only cultivated as an experimental crop, on a few square meters at the agronomic station (p. 148). Fiji (Iles Fidji): Soybean cultivation is not yet practiced in this colony; however soybean seeds are currently being imported in order to conduct a trial. New Caledonia: In 1928 soybean cultivation was introduced to New Caledonia. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Dec. 2007) concerning soybeans in Bhutan, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Israel, Jamaica, Madagascar, Morocco, New Caledonia, Palestine, Peru, or Runion, or the cultivation of soybeans in Bhutan, Costa Rica, Dominican Republic, El Salvador, Guatemala, Israel, Jamaica, Madagascar, Mexico, the Middle East. Morocco, New Caledonia, Palestine, Peru, or Runion. It is also the earliest document seen (Dec. 2007) concerning soybeans in connection with (but not yet in) Cyprus; it is stated that soybeans are not grown on the island of Cyprus. Soybean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU culture is not practiced in the Italian colonies of Eritrea (Erythre, now part of Ethiopia) or Cyrenaica (Cyrnaque, now part of Libya). Note 3. This document contains the earliest date seen (June 2007) for soybeans in Bhutan, New Caledonia, or Runion, or the cultivation of soybeans in New Caledonia (1928), or Bhutan or Runion (1936) (One of two documents). Note 4. This is the earliest French-language document seen (Sept. 2011) that mentions tempeh, which it calls tempe (p. 168). It notes that, in general, the indigenous people of the Netherlands Indies use soybeans mainly to make tempe, a product which, throughout central and eastern Java, takes the place reserved for ontjom in western Java. Tempeh is found in two forms: either in large at cakes which are cut at the time of sale into small square morsels, or wrapped in folded banana leaves. A detailed description of the preparation of each of these two types of tempeh is given as well as another type of tempe, called tempemori, which is made with soybeans and coconut presscake. Soybean culture is not known to be practiced in the following countries or colonies: Antigua, Barbados, British Honduras (renamed Belize in about 1975), Trinidad and Tobago. Address: Rome, Italy. 143. Shih, You-Kuang. 1937. Study on the molds concerned in the fermentation of wheat gluten in China. Lingnan Science Journal 16(1):27-38. Jan. 13. [21 ref. Eng; chi] Summary: The author begins by discussing the research of others on the well known foodstuff Fu-Yu [fermented tofu, 2 Chinese characters are given] or preserved soy bean curd. Wei (1930) isolated the same species of Mono-Mucor from different samples obtained from Shaoshing of Chekiang [province] and Suchow of Kiangsu Province. He adds that P.W. Liu, in his unpublished work, isolated a species of Mucor from Mei-Tou-Cha [meitauza; Chinese characters are given], or naturally fermented dregs of soy bean curd [i.e., naturally fermented okara], which is a common foodstuff in Wuchang and Hankow. It is prepared by frying in vegetable oil or animal fat. No mention of the so-called Minchin [W.-G. mien chin, pinyin mianjin] fermentation has been made as yet in literature. Minchin is, chemically speaking, the gluten of wheat. Rich in protein, it has a delicious taste. In some districts it is commonly eaten as a substitute for meat by Buddhists who do not eat meat. It is also occasionally used as a palatable dish at banquets. Although we do not know denitely when it came to be used as an article of diet, it probably was at least hundreds or even thousands of years ago. Recently it has become a canning industry in large cities, San-Loh Wusih Minchin of Kiangsu province being a well-known example. The author then gives a detailed description of how raw wheat gluten is made in China. To the high-protein wheat
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our, about 0.5% to 1% by weight of table salt is added before any water is added in a large earthen jar. The dough is allowed to stand for 1-2 hours under water before the starch is removed in a strainer. A high grade of minchin is one that is almost free of starch content, pale in color, and very sticky and exible. Raw wheat gluten is typically made into one of four end products: (1) Fresh minchin: The raw minchin is kneaded into desirable shapes then boiled and seasoned for eating. When prepared for sale at a market in hot weather, it is usually preserved in water to prevent rapid spoilage by bacteria; (2) Roasted minchin is prepared by roasting raw minchin in a at pan over a re. A small mass of raw minchin will bubble up into a large globose shape with a very loose and porous texture. It is usually used to prepare soups, or cooked with other foods, and can be purchased even in small grocery stores in some localities; (3) Fried minchin is prepared by frying raw minchin with vegetable oil and seasoning. Recently the preparation of this kind of minchin has become a canning industry, as noted above. It has an excellent taste and is especially appropriate for travelers; (4) Fermented minchin (fermented wheat gluten) is made by putting fresh minchin into a suitable container, usually an earthen jar, and covering it tightly. After 2-3 weeks at room temperature, it will be overgrown with molds and bacteria. Then an excess amount of table salt (sodium chloride), more than 10% by weight of the molded minchin is added. After thoroughly mixing the salt into the minchin, it is allowed to stand for 2 more weeks to age. It is then commonly cut into thin strips and used as a condiment with other foods. Usually the fermentation is carried on during the winter because in hot weather it spoils rapidly due to bacteria. Minchin is most commonly eaten by the people in northern China, however fermented minchin is rarely heard of except in Wuchang, Hankow and Hanyang of Hupeh Province so far as the author knows. According to the Investigation of diet nutrition of Chinese in Manchuria by Lu (1934), the average amount of Minchin consumed a day by one person of different classes, and its nutritive value are as follows (Table 1): Physicians 14.4 gm of minchin, 3.2 gm of protein; Members of the bank 13.8 gm, 3.1 gm of protein; Ofcials 11.2 gm, 2.5 gm of protein; School teachers 3.7 gm, 0.8 gm of protein; Middle class families 1.8 gm, 0.4 gm of protein. Minchin appears to contain a mixture of molds including Paecilomyces varioti, Aspergillus avipes, Cladosporium elegans, Fusarium orthoceras, Syncephalastrum racemosum, Trichothecium roseum, and Penicillium species. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Fu-Yu to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2011) concerning okara tempeh (which it calls Mei-Tou-Cha), and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU the earliest English-language document seen (Sept. 2011) that uses the term Mei-Tou-Cha to refer to okara tempe. Address: Lab. of Applied Mycology, College of Agriculture, Hokkaido Imperial Univ., Sapporo, Japan. 144. Los Angeles Times.1937. Southland cafes: Worlds choicest menus found in Southland. April 21. p. B39, B41. Summary: Most of us who live in California have a favorite Chinese restaurant, where you can order the usual chop suey and chow mein, as well as the more typical Chinese dishes of distinction. The dollar dinner includes almond chicken, made with bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, dried mushrooms, diced chicken and soy sauce. And there are crispy fried shrimps which you dip into ketchup and mustard sauce,... Or try the bock choy served with Chinese cheese, which is really bean cake [tofu] fermented in wine and tasting much like Roquefort. 145. Bordas, Jean. 1937. Le soja et son rle alimentaire [The soybean and its role as a food]. Paris: Hermann & Cie. 36 p. 24 cm. Series: Actualits Scientiques et Industrielles, No. 557. [24 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Introduction. 1. Botanical characteristics and principal varieties. 2. Chemical composition of soya. 3. Alimentary physiology and the nutritional uses of soya: Seeds (energy value, protein, vitamins, use as a milk substitute), forage. 4. Different uses of soya: Agricultural, industrial (oil, casein, sterol), as human food (sprouts, tofu, fermented tofu, shoyu, miso, tuong of Annam, roasted soy coffee, soy bread for diabetics, the future of soya). 5. The economics of soya: Production, imports, exports. Conclusions. Address: Director, Station dAgronomie et de Pathologie vegetale dAvignon, France. 146. Shojun, Matsuyama Oji (Danshaku). 1938. Tfu raisan [In praise of tofu]. Gekkan Ryukyu (Ryukyu Monthly). June. [Jap] Summary: About tofuyo, Okinawan fermented tofu. Note: This is the earliest document seen (June 2004) that mentions tofuyo or Okinawan wine-fermented tofu. Address: Okinawa. 147. Matsumoto, K. 1938. Genry o kotonishitaru kakushu shyu moromi narabini beni-funy-ch no saikin ni tsuite [Bacteria in shoyu moromi made from various raw materials and in chian-tao-fu (red fermented tofu)]. Jozo Shikensho Hokoku (Report of the Brewing Experiment Station) No. 127. p. 123-298. [8 ref. Jap] 148. Fiene, F.; Blumenthal, Saul. 1938. Handbook of food manufacture: A handbook of practical food information... New York, NY: Chemical Publishing Co. vi + 603 p. See p. 89. Index. 24 cm. Summary: This book contains many commercial scale formulas / recipes. Chapter 2, Description of raw
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materials, includes brief descriptions of corn oil (maize oil), cottonseed oil, arachis oil (also called peanut, ground nut, and earth nut oil), sesame oil (gingli oil, teel oil), soy bean oil, and rape oil (p. 70-71). Chapter 3, Milk and milk products, includes subsections titled Infants milk, synthetic (a recipe for a dry mix in which Soya bean powder, 125 g. is the main ingredient), Soya bean vegetable milk and Soya bean curd (p. 89). Concerning the milk: Soya bean meal after the oil is extracted or whole soya bean meal may be utilized quite as well as the whole bean. The milk can be used successfully in numerous preparations, such as breads and cakes, in creaming vegetables, in milk chocolate, and in custards. After separating the liquid from the solid material, the residue is still very rich in nutritive substances and can be dried and used for cattle feed or made into our for human food. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (May 2008) that uses the term Soya bean vegetable milk to refer to soymilk. Concerning the curd: This curd, after being drained or pressed, represents bean curd of [sic, or] tofu, which is extensively eaten and forms the basis of numerous fermented, smoked, and dried cheeses in China and Japan... In many cities of the United States having a large oriental population fresh bean curd may be found in Chinese and Japanese markets. Chapter 5, on canned foods, notes in the section titled Dried beans (p. 126) that Soya beans sold in cans. Chapter 17, on Bread contains two formulas (p. 37879) for Soya bean our bread, the rst containing 260 lb. wheat our, 65 lb. Soya our, etc., and the second containing 25 lb. Whole soya our, 25 lb Whole wheat our, etc. The straight dough method is used. Chapter 23, titled Health foods begins (p. 445): Natural and vitamin-laden health-building foods and drinks are essential for healthy muscles, nerves, glands, and for the growth and maintenance of a healthy, vigorous, and sound mind. The best diets are those containing plenty of fresh foods and juices. Nuts and soya beans are good substitutes for meats, sh, eggs, and sea foods. A section in this chapter on the Soy bean begins (p. 447): The soy bean is justly entitled to be called the king of the legumes. Not only because it is lowest in starch but also because, rstly, it is the most complete and best protein for both growing children and adults and, secondly, because of its unusually high mineral content being quite high in alkaline potassium, calcium, and magnesium... it is an alkaline food. Formulas for health foods include (p. 454-55): Health dry cereals (six formulas, two if which contain Soy bean middlings [medium size soy grits, probably made by cracking whole soybeans]). Coffee substitutes and health drinks (three formulas, the 3rd containing only 75 oz. roasted whole wheat and 25 oz. roasted soy bean middlings). The
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU next health-food subsection, titled Flour, meals, etc. states (p. 455): Soy bean our, with or without a high percentage of fat, is used to make bread, biscuits, noodles, mayonnaise, candy, etc. Chapter 24, Acid-forming and alkali-forming foods, states: When foods yielding an acid ash predominate in the diet, a condition of acidosis may result unless the resulting constituents are neutralized with alkaline ash foods. Next come two lists: (1) Acid-forming foods, starting with those foods having the least amount of acid-forming ash. The foods with the most acid-forming ash are: 1. White bread. 2. Cheese. 3. Meat, chicken. 4. Fish, haddock. 5. Meat, venison. 6. Meat, beef, lean. 7. Meat, veal. (2) Alkali-forming foods, starting with those foods having the least amount of alkali-forming ash. The foods with the most alkali-forming ash are: 1. Soy bean. 2. Olives. 3. Beans, lima, dried. 4. Linseed oil meal. 5. Spinach. 6. Raisins. 7. Beans, dried. 8. Almonds. Address: 1. PhD, Food Research Chemist; 2. B.S., Consulting Food Chemist and Director of Shirley Labs., New York City. 149. Low, Henry. 1938. Cook at home in Chinese. New York, NY: Macmillan. [xiii] + 274 p. Foreword by Lin Yutang. 21 cm. Summary: The names of recipes and ingredients in this cookbook are in Cantonese. The Preface begins with an old Chinese saying which states that the food of Kwanchow [Canton, Guangzhou, Kwangchow] is well known to be the best in China. Only within the last few years has the American public realized the deliciousness of Chinese foods, prepared in the original Chinese style. It is not necessary to keep a large number of Chinese ingredients on hand in order to enjoy these recipes. If gourmet powder (mei jing [MSG]), soy sauce (see yeou), black beans (dow see [salted black soybeans]), brown bean sauce (mien see), and black sauce (gee yeou) are added to the ordinary household supply they will see one through quite well. The author as had forty years of cooking experience and is considered an authority on real Chinese food. Note: Most recipes call for 1-2 teaspoons gourmet powder (mei jing [MSG]). A Glossary of ingredients (p. 5-18) lists the major ones called for in this book, with the Chinese name romanized in Cantonese and the Chinese characters for each. Soy-related ingredients are: Beans, black (dow see). Cheese, Chinese (foo yu) [fermented tofu]. Cheese, red (nom yu) [fermented tofu]. Curds, bean (dow foo). Curds, bean, dried (tiem jook [dried yuba]). Sauce, black (gee yeou). Sauce, brown bean (mien see). Sauce, soy (see yeou). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term nom yu to refer to fermented tofu. Soy-related recipes: Bean curd soup (Dow foo tong, p. 27). Bean curd and hairy melon soup (Jeat kuar tong, p. 27). Bean curd and mushroom soup (Dow foo tso koo tong, p.
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28). Chinese okra and bean curd soup (Sing kuar dow foo tong, p. 29-30). Snails with black beans (Chow tien lor, p. 67). Sea bass with black beans (Dow see yu, p. 74). Sea bass and vegetables with black beans (Sy wu yu, p. 75). Fried sh with bean curds (Dow foo yu, p. 76). Steamed sh with bean curds (Dow foo jing yu, p. 76-77). Smelts with brown bean sauce (Jui suut yu, p. 84). Sturgeon with bean curds (Mun leung dun, p. 84-85). Crab meat with bean curds [and soy sauce] (Dow foo hai, p. 90). Shrimps with bean curds (Dow foo gee ha, p. 99). Boiled chicken with soy sauce (See yeou gai, p. 10708). Duck with soy sauce (Tung tze op, p. 141). Squab with soy sauce (Tung tse gop, p. 156-57). Beef with bean curds (Dow foo ngow yuk, p. 162). Roast pork with bean curds and oyster sauce (Tar sheou ho yow dow foo, p. 172). Pork with bean curds (Dow foo chow gee yuk, p. 172). Pork with lotus rot and red cheese (Leen gnow nom yu gee yuk, p. 179-180). Steamed spareribs with black beans (Chow pii yuk, p. 18788). Scrambled eggs with bean curds (Dow foo chow don, p. 199-200). Spinach with Chinese cheese (Chow bor choy foo yu, p. 209). The chapter titled Cheese (p. 221-23) has only one entry and no recipes: Chinese cheese (foo yu). The Chinese do not serve their cheese as a separate course at the end of the meal as Americans do, but see it as a main course. It is eaten with hot rice. This cheese (foo yu), strictly speaking, is not a cheese at all because it contains no milk. It is the bean curd (dow foo) aged in Chinese wine. The avor is marked, and a taste for it is easily acquired by cheese-lovers. The author has an entire chapter titled Chow mein (p. 243-52). Plain chow mein is almost the same as Chicken chow mein, but with cup less chicken. Fried noodles in called Jow mein. Chow mein Cantonese is one of the most popular luncheon dishes among the Chinese. Recipes are given for Beef chow mein, Chicken chow mein, Lobster chow mein, Shrimp chow mein. Another entire chapter (p. 253-62) is devoted to Chop suey, including Plain, Chicago, Mixed vegetable, Mushroom, Beef, Pineapple, etc.; none of these recipes call for rice or noodles. 150. Sia, Mary Li (Mrs. Richard H.P. Sia). 1938. Chinese chopsticks: A manual of Chinese cookery and guide to Peking restaurants. 2nd ed. Peking, China: Peking International Womens Club. xvii + 144 + 6 p. Frontispiece. Illust. Index. 19 cm. [Eng; chi] Summary: Tofu recipes: Bean curd and shrimp egg (p. 1). Stewed pork with red bean curd and pork (with 1 large piece of red bean curd [red fermented tofu], p. 28). Stewed spare ribs (with 2 T. [tablespoons] preserved red bean curd, p. 30). Bean curd and prawns (p. 45). Bean curd, eggs and chicken blood (p. 77). Oxtail Soup (with black beans) (p. 81). The List of foodstuffs (p. 130-36) mentions: Bean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU curd, Bean Curd dry, and Bean curd preserved. A recipe (p. 52) for Steamed sh with black salted soy beans (CC = Chinese characters given) (tou chih) calls for 1 T. [tablespoon] black salted soy beans, 1 small piece ginger, chopped, 1 piece garlic, chopped. Note: This 2nd edition has a lovely cover. The names of dishes, restaurants, and their addresses are in English and Chinese. 151. Yanagi, Kaneko. 1939. Ryky chinmi no ichiya [One night enjoying specialty products from the Ryukyu Islands]. Gekkan Mingei (Monthly Folkcraft) 1(240):41-43. May. [Jap] Summary: The author mentions briey (p. 41) that she tasted tofu-yuu [fermented tofu] from the banquet table at Shojun Danshakus home. 152. Borth, Christy L. 1939. Pioneers of plenty: The story of chemurgy. Indianapolis, Indiana and New York: BobbsMerrill. 303 p. Portraits. 22 cm. Summary: Soy is discussed at length (usually in connection with Henry Ford Sr. and Edsel A. Ruddiman) on p. 22, 40, 42, 202-06, 208-11. Henry Ford is also discussed on p. 2122, 30, 69, 76-77, 118, 144, 246. A few years ago, Henry Ford was ridiculed when he said the time would come when most of an automobile would be grown on the farm. Since then, Ford chemists have perfected processes whereby soy beans are converted into plastic substitutes for automobile parts formerly made of metal. Ford Chemist Russell Hudson McCarroll estimated that the use of plastics for interior window moldings alone would increase that companys use of farm-grown metalsubstitutes twenty-ve million pounds annually. (p. 21-22). Dearborn was selected as the [rst chemurgic] conference site because it was the home of Henry Ford, an industrialist who had demonstrated his understanding of the meaning of the farm problem, and because there were, in near-by Edison Institute, working exhibits of the processing equipment which Ford researchers had developed to convert soy beans into some thirty industrial products. (p. 40). At the chemurgic conference Russell Hudson McCarroll, a Ford chemist, described how soy beans are converted into raw materials for industrial use. From the bean oil Ford chemists make a lacquer which is claimed to be superior to the pyroxylin paints usually used in coating metals. From the residue of meal after extraction of oil, Ford chemists make plastic parts for automobiles, these farm-derived parts being substitutes either for metals formerly mined or for rubber formerly imported. (p. 42). Chapter 10, titled Ford links farm and factory (p. 20012) is about Henry Ford, chemurgy, and soy beans. Do you recall the gibes that greeted his [Henry Fords] prediction that man would one day nd a substitute for the cow, as revolutionary as the automobile which displaced the horse? It
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was very funny when the cartoonists and columnists leaped upon it gleefullybut it may not be so fantastic as it once seemed. Lets investigate it. Come now to the foot of Elm Street, in Dearborn, to a rejuvenated farmhouse whose homelike exterior masks a modern laboratory. Follow the truant chemurgists inside and meet Fords boyhood companion, Dr. Edsel a. Ruddiman, the foodchemist whose services were enlisted by his old deskmate. In the back room, once a farm kitchen, is an electric refrigerator, lled with food made from soy beans. Milk, butter and cheesethe latter, fresh, dried, smoked and fermentedare there, soy-bean products all. In the pantry are breakfast foods, macaroni, salad oils, crackers, diabetic foods, infant foods, our, bouillon cubes, soups, confections, coffee substitutes, sauces, gravies and beef substitutesall produced from the soy (p. 202-03). A wonder bean indeed! During the World War [I], when Germany faced famine, German chemists extracted from the soy the glutamic acid which became the basis of the beef-tea that kept patients alive in hospitals. The soy bean gets into Heinz and Lea & Perrins sauces and into oleomargarine (p. 203). A full-page photo (between pages 206 and 207) shows Irne du Pont and Henry Ford talking and enjoying a meal together at a table. 153. A handbook of Philippine agriculture. 1939. Manila, Philippines: College of Agriculture, University of the Philippines. vii + 803 p. No index. 18 cm. Summary: On the title page: Issued in commemoration of the thirtieth Anniversary. The University of the Philippines was founded in 1908. The Foreword (by L.B. Uichanco, Dean, College of Agriculture) states that its College of Agriculture opened on 14 June 1909, at which time scientic Philippine agriculture was virtually nonexistent. The idea for the book originated with the former dean of the College of Agriculture, Dr. B.M. Gonzalez, before he was appointed president of the University of the Philippines. Soybeans and soyfoods are discussed extensively. Coffee adulterants (p. 104), commonly mixed with ground coffee, include roasted ground corn, soybean, peanut, mungo, cashew, and sometimes ipil-ipil (Leucaena glauca). In Chapter 1, Field crops is a long section titled Peanut, soybean, cowpea (p. 132-43). Contents of Culture of soybean (p. 134-41): Varieties. Preparation of the land. Planting. Cultivation. Harvesting and threshing. Yield. Green and yellow seeds of Ami soybean. Soybean sprouts. How to prepareSoybean coffee, soybean cake [dessert, with baking powder], soybean milk, tao-si (salted soybean; Method furnished by Superintendent of the Davao Penal Colony), toyo or soy sauce. The two main kinds of insecticides in 1939 (p. 223-31)
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU were stomach poisons (which kill when eaten; incl. lead arsenate, calcium arsenate, Paris green) and contact poisons (incl. concentrated tobacco decoction, as in Black Leaf 40). Diseases of beans and other legumes (p. 319+) include downy mildew of soybean and rust of soybean. A table (p. 448) gives the content of ve vitamins found in various feeds incl. soybean seeds, soybean leaves, soybean meal, peanut meal, and peanut seeds. Leguminous silage includes that from cowpea, soybean, and mungo [mung bean] (Phaseolus aureus). Tables give: (1) The Average digestible nutrients in feeds incl. soybean (p. 459, 462). (2) The Nutritive value of foods incl. seaweeds (ara-rosip, Gracilaria crassa, p. 534), mungo sprouts (p. 536), green soybeans (p. 537), seguidilla or kalamismis (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus, fresh and sun-dried seeds, p. 538), soy products (p. 538-39) incl. soy sauce (toyo, Superior {Senkee and Co.}, Commercial), soy milkboiled, soy residue (sapal), soy residue after second drawing of toyo, soy curd (toqua [tofu]). (3) Foods as sources of minerals (calcium, phosphorus, iron; p. 580-81), incl. miso or soybean mush, soybeansbaked our, soybeansbaked sprouts, soy curd or toqua, soy sauce or toyo (four brands: Solo, Great Eastern, Violin, Rooster), tahuri or soybean curd preserved in strong brine solution (solid portion). (4) Foods as sources of vitamins (p. 593-94) incl. beanasparagus or cigarillas (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus), beanmungo (in pods or sprouts), beansoy (dry, green, or leaves), peanut butter, seaweed, sesame (p. 601). Address: Manila, Philippines. 154. Read, Bernard E.; Wagner, W. 1940. Shanghai vegetables. China Journal (The) 33(5):206-20. Nov.; 33(6):259-71. Dec. Summary: In the Science department, the Introduction begins: Recent advances in the science of nutrition show the great need for more so called Protective Foods in the diet. This term refers to those things which are rich in essential vitamins and minerals. In section 2, The Legumes (p. 210+), the rst two entries are: (1) The soybean. Latin names. Chinese name: (CC = Chinese characters given), Ta Dou. The yellow, black and green varieties are common in China and marketed from Manchuria, Tsingtao and Shanghai. The young soybean in the pod is a common article of diet in Shanghai, Chinese name, CC. Shanghai: Mau Deu; Peking, Mao tou. Followed by: season, price, nutritive value, and a recipe. (2) Soybean sprouts. Chinese name, CC. Shanghai: Waung Deu Nga; Peking, Huang Tou Ya. Followed by: season, price, how to make, nutritive value, and serving suggestions. There are very many other soybean preparations of
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high nutritional value well worth adding to the diet. Soybean sauce (soy) with added spices is the basis of such things as Worcester [Worcestershire] sauce. Beancurd is really a king of junket containing good digestible protein, it can be added to soups or stews. Made fresh daily... A dry cake is made [pressed tofu], also spiced, pickled, fried and fermented. The latter is just like a kind of strong cheese. Soybean milk is made by grinding the [soy] bean with water, one part of bean to about 9 of water Photos (on unnumbered pages, against a black background, with a small cm ruler show): (1) Four young soybean pods with beans inside. Four soybean sprouts 8-10 cm long. Also discusses many other edible Chinese legumes. Address: 1. Henry Lester Inst. of Medical Research; 2. Public Health Dep., Shanghai Municipal Council. 155. Concepcion, Isabelo. 1941. Signicance of soy bean in the dietary of Filipinos. Acta Medica Philippina 2(4):479-95. April/June. Read before the Sixth Pacic Science Congress, San Francisco, California, July 24 to Aug. 12, 1939. [28 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Composition and nutritive value. Supplementary value of soy bean (to a ricebased diet). Forms of soy bean used in Philippines: Soy bean curd or tokua, fermented bean curd or tahuri, soy bean curd brain or tojo (served with a little thick brown sugar syrup), soybean with shaved ice or mongo con hielo, soy bean our, soy bean milk. Deciencies of Filipino diet. Effects of improper food. The need for a campaign to popularize soy bean products. Conclusions. Soy bean is grown in many parts of the Philippines where it is known as utao and also as Chinese Balatong. It is grown in large quantities in Batangas Province. The green pods are harvested in October and November and the dried seeds may be had in bulk in December and January. Just when soy bean was rst cultivated in the Philippines is not known. For years casual plantings have been made but it is only in comparatively recent years that the cultivation has been seriously considered as an agricultural industry. Statistics indicate that consumption of soy bean in the Philippines has grown faster than production. They also show a growing appreciation of soy bean in the Philippines. Soy bean with shaved ice is a very popular soy bean mixture introduced by the Japanese but now sold in nearly all refreshment parlors all over the Philippines. The preparation consists of a mixture of boiled red mongo and soy bean mixed with cream, brown sugar and ice shavings. This form of soy bean mixture is more nourishing than any other preparation just described on account of its cream and sugar content. The consumption of soy bean products in the Philippines does not amount to very much. The reason for this apparent neglect is the general lack of sufcient information. It is desirable that the government should initiate the necessary
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU campaign to inform the people regarding the valuable nutritive properties of soy bean. Although the Bureau of Science since 1931 has been carrying a demonstration campaign to teach the public the different methods of cooking soy bean with the aim of popularizing its use among the masses, its efforts so far have not yielded the expected results. Another reason is the lack of a central body in the Philippines that can coordinate all the nutrition work to be carried out in that country. Furthermore, there is lacking a denite long range policy for the betterment of nutrition... The popularization among the masses of soy bean and soy bean products like soy bean curd, soy bean our, and soy bean milk should be undertaken along with a more intensive campaign about its nutritive value carried on in the different schools all over the Philippines. Note 1. In section titled Fermented bean curd or Tahuri (4 paragraphs and 1 table), the text is a combination of that rst presented by Gibbs and Agcaoili (1912) and Orosa (1932). Although the word fermented is used here to describe tahuri for the rst time, no information about a fermentation microorganism or process is given. Note 2. This is one of the earliest English-language documents seen (Sept. 2006) that uses the term Soy bean in a new wayas a singular noun, like corn or wheat, not preceded by the. Examples: Soy bean is grown in many parts of the Philippines... ... campaign to teach the public the different methods of cooking soy bean with the aim of popularizing its use among the masses,... Address: Dep. of Physiology and Biochemistry, College of Medicine, Univ. of the Philippines. 156. Giraud-Gilliet, J. 1942. Le soja, aliment davenir: manire de le cultiver; 2 300 faons de le consommer [Soya, food of the future: How to cultivate it; 200-300 ways to consume it]. Saigon: Imprimerie de C. Ardin. 285 p. Index. [Fre] Summary: Contents: Dedication. Introduction. Part I: Summary study of soya (the soybean): Its cultivation. 1. The nature of soya: Its area of expansion. 2. Cultivation of soya: Soil, manure & fertilizer, seeds. 3. Interest in soya: Its richness in nutritive elements and comparison with other foods. Various possibilities for utilization: therapeutic uses for hygiene and diseases (vegetarian diet, diabetes, beriberi, diseases of the nervous system, anemia, slimming, milk diet), agricultural uses for xation of nitrogen in the soil and as a fertilizer, use in the feeding of animals (green forage, dry forage, soybean cake, our, seeds, germinated seeds, straw and pods, soymilk, milk), industrial utilization (soybean oil and its derivatives, glycerine, soy casein), use as human food (whole dry soybeans, soy sprouts, soybeans mashed or ground after they are cooked, soybeans cracked or crushed before they are cooked, fermented soybeans, soymilk, soymilk derivatives / foods made from soymilk {tofu / duphu, yuba / tao hu ky, dry yuba rolls / phu chuc, beverages},
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edible oil), utilization for social work (drops of milk, bowls of soya, inexpensive restaurants, battle against malnutrition and degeneration, for school gardens, pagodas, waste lands). Part II: The main soyfood products and how to prepare them at home. 1. Soymilk, soymilk curds (tau hu hoa), small white cheeses (petits fromages blancs {du-hu ming}), folded sheets of yellow yuba (feuille jaune plisse de crme de soja {du-hu ky vang}), white sheets of yuba (feuille blanche unie {du-hu ky trang}), dried or smoked yuba (plaquettes sches ou fumes {du-hu ky ngot}), fermented tofulike cream cheese (fromages fermentes: cancoillotte comtoise au soja). 2. Soy our: Roasted soy our, soy bread, sojenta (soy polenta), pasta (soy vermicelli and vermicelli of mung beans {du xanh} or song than). 3. Soy condiments. Solid condiments: natto and douchi (taotch), condiments that are pastes: miso and doujiang (tao tjiung) and koji [sic, not a paste but used to make miso, doujiang, shoyu, and jiang-you], liquid condiments: shoyu, jiang-you (tsiang yeou), (tao yu), ketjap (Indonesian soy sauce), Vietnamese soy sauce (tuong). Part III: Recipes. 1. Introduction: Essential recommendations, the cookery of the poor, comparative cuisine, general recipes. 2. Soups and paps. 3. Hors doeuvres and salads. 4. Vegetables. 5. Meat, sh and egg dishes. 6. Breakfasts, sweets, and desserts. Conclusion. Appendix. Errata. Address: Administrateur des S.C. de lIndochine; Vietnam. 157. Lin, Yutang. ed. 1942. The wisdom of China and India. New York, NY: Random House. xiii + 1104 p. No index. 24 cm. Summary: Translations of a wide collection of fables, tales, poems, and excerpts from sacred books introduce the Westerner to the spiritual and cultural wealth of the Orient. In Part Two: The wisdom of China is a section titled Six chapters of a oating life, by Shen Fu (Translated by Lin Yutang); it is an autobiographical novel. Shen Fu lived 1763-1825, during the Qing dynasty, in Suzhou (in todays central eastern China). Page 980: Yn is the wife of the author; they deeply love one another. To this Yn replied: One eats bean-curd because it is so cheap and it goes with dry rice as well as with congee. You yourself eat garlic, for instance, and I have tried to eat it with you. I wont compel you to eat stinking bean-curd, but cucumber is really very nice, if you hold your breath while eating. Yn also prepared pickled bean-curd mixed with sesame seed oil and sugar, which I found also to be a delicacy. We then mixed pickled cucumber with pickled bean-curd and called the mixture the double-avoured gravy. I said I could not understand why I disliked it at rst and began to love it so now. If you are in love with a thing, you will forget its ugliness, said Yn.
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158. Brown, Wenzell. 1943. Hong Kong aftermath. New York, NY: Smith & Durrell, Inc. 283 p. See p. 80. June. No index. 21 cm. Summary: The story of the fall of Hong Kong in 1941, and the experiences of the author in the Stanley Prison Camp, established by the Japanese conquerors. Page 80: We drew up the package and examined it and found that it contained some bean curd cheese and two pomeloes... Bean curd cheese has much the avor of a very strong Gorgonzola. We each had a square of about a quarter of an inch which avored an entire bowl of rice. 159. Perrot, mile. 1943-1944. Matires premires usuelles du rgne vgtal: thrapeutiquehygiene industrie. [Common raw materials from the plant kingdom: therapeutichygieneindustry. 2 vols]. Paris: Masson. See Vol. 2, p. 1515. Illust. [Fre]* Summary: Mentions fermented tofu. Discusses: Therapeutics. Medicinal plants. Pharmacology. Note: Emile Perrot was born in 1867. 160. Bazore, Katherine. 1943. Hawaiian and Pacic foods, a cook book of culinary customs and recipes adapted for the American hostess. New York, NY: M. Barrows. 286 p. Illust. * Summary: Yuba is called bean curd skin. Mentions red bean curd sauce [nam yue?]. Katherine Bazore was born in 1895. 161. Concepcion, Isabelo. 1943. Signicance of soy bean in the dietary of Filipinos. In: Proceedings of the Sixth Pacic Science Congress of the Pacic Science Assoc. See vol. 6, p. 437-47. Held July 24-Aug 12, 1939. Berkeley, CA: Univ. of California Press. [26 ref] Summary: See: Concepcion, Isabelo. 1941. Signicance of soy bean in the dietary of Filipinos. Acta Medica Philippina 2(4):479-95. April/June. 162. Mathews, R.H. comp. 1943. A Chinese-English dictionary. Revised. American ed. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard Univ. Press. Published for the Harvard-Yenching Institute. xxiv + 1226 p. Index. 26 cm. [3 ref] Summary: This excellent dictionary, which romanizes Chinese words using the Wade-Giles system and arranged them in alphabetical order by sound, is a condensed version of the multi-volume dictionary by Giles, and a revised version of Matthews 1931 dictionary. Soy-related characters include: Chiang (No. 661, p. 90)Soy [sauce], pickled vegetables, pickled bean curd (chiang toufu) [fermented tofu]. Fu (No. 1930, p. 285)Tofu.
Ju (No. 3144, p. 473)Milk. The breasts; a teat, a nipple. To suckle. Fuju (rotten milk)A milky preparation from beans. [Note: Probably fermented tofu]. Shih (No. 5805, p. 813)Cantonese soy [sauce], salted beans [soy nuggets] eaten with rice, gruel, etc. Tou (No. 6478, p. 939-40)See No. 6481. Tou (No. 6481, p. 940)Beans, oil expressed from beans, young bean plants, bean stalks, bean our, bean curd, dried cakes of bean curd usually avored with soy, underlings = bean curd ofcials, soft hearted, bean sprouts [mung]used as a vegetable, bean pods, soy [sauce], beancake, four kinds of soya beans (ta-tou, hei-tofu, huang-tou), (Glycine hispida). Note: At Mao (No. 4357, p. 614, meaning hair) there is no entry for Mao tou = green vegetable soybeans. Address: China Inland Mission, Shanghai. 163. Bordas, Jean. 1944. Le Soja: Agronomie du soja, utilisations agricoles et alimentaires, usages industriels, conomie du soja, tat actuel de la question en France. Dieuxme ed. [The soybean: Agronomy, agricultural and food uses, industrial uses, economics, and present status in France. 2nd ed.]. Montpellier, France: Dubois et Poulain. 32 p. The 1st edition (36 p.) was published in 1937. [39 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: 1. Introduction (he notes that World War II is the war we have just lost). 2. Soybean agronomy: Botanical characteristics, varieties (in Japan, China, Manchuria, USA), acclimatization trials in Europe, soybean cultivation (incl. inoculation), 3. Food and agricultural uses of soya: Chemistry of the soybean, alimentary physiology, as a feed for animals (soybean cake, forage, soybean seed and our, soymilk mixed with 25% animal milk), other agricultural uses, as a human food (soy sprouts, tofu, fermented tofu, smoked tofu, how to make tofu), condimentssauces (soy sauce miso, tuong of the Annamites, soy coffee, provisions / rations), human therapy (incl. infant foods). 4. Industrial uses: Soybean oil, casein, plastic materials (Sojalithe), vegetable lecithin, cellulose, sterol. 5. Soy in the economy: Production, imports and exports. 6. The present state of the soybean question in France Conclusion. On page 8 is an interesting map of France which shows: (1) Twelve centers of agronomic research. (2) A shaded zone which is the area of optimal production of soybean seeds. It is in the southeast of France and along the eastern side of France all the way to the northern border. This zone includes (from southwest to northeast) the following centers: Toulouse, Montpellier, Avignon, Antibes, Clermont, Dijon, and Colmar (in Alsace). Pages 5-6: The rst trials made by the agronomic stations in France date from 1901. Mr. Lechartier, director of the station at Rennes, concluded at the end of his observations, that the production of soybean seeds would be
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU more advantageous in a climate that was drier and warmer than that of Brittany (Bretagne). These were the same conclusions that Mr. Brioux, director of the agronomic station at Rouen, arrived at some years later. Starting in 1924 the agronomic station at Avignon, the central station for plant improvement at Versailles, in 1935 the stations at Colmar, Clermont-Ferrand and Dijon, and in 1940 the School of Merle (Bouches-du-Rhne), established soybean [germplasm] collections which originated in many different places, in order to test the earliest and most productive varieties that were adapted to each region. Rouest and Rondet in the south of France, Dr. Balzli in Alsace and de Guerpel in Normandy were the main agronomists and selectionists who were passionately interested in the cultivation of Soya in France. Note: Rouen is the historic capital city of Normandy, in northern France on the River Seine. Address: Ingnieur Agronome, Directeur de la Station Rgionale de Recherches Agronomiques dAvignon, France. 164. De Gouy, Louis Pullig. 1944. The bread tray. New York, NY: Greenberg. vii + 463 p. Foreword by Dorothy Thompson. 21 cm. Summary: This is a book about bread. The 1st chapter is A short history of breads. The chapter titled Soy our breads and biscuits (p. 401-24) includes the following (p. 404-05): In New Yorks Chinatown, stroll inquisitively along Mott, Pell, and Doyer Streets, and you will see how important the soy bean is in everyday Chinese life. Fresh bean sproutssome from soy and some from other beans stand in large hampers in the shops; on the shelves around them are jugs and bottle of soy sauce, for the kitchen or the table. In Chinese shops corresponding vaguely to our delicatessen stores you will see Teou-fu, or tofu, made fresh daily, in cream-white cakes like Philadelphia cream cheese, kept cool and moist in pans of water. It is made from soy bean milk much as cheese is made from cows milk or goats milk, and it was a staple commodity in Chinese cities more than two thousand years ago. The Chinese prepare it for breakfast, dinner or supper in many ways, and a favorite form is ready for you in the shopsTsa tofu, the little cheeses fried in deep fat [deep-fried tofu puffs], that look like wellbrowned and rather robust doughnuts without holes. You can get them hot from the kettle and eat them with syrup or without; a Chinese laborer nds them sustaining and satisfying as a noon-hour meal. Tofu nao is of custard consistency and is eaten in soups and as a custard; Chien chang, or thousand-fold tofu, is made in thin layers rolled together and cut up like noodles for soup or fried in sesame oil. A brown, dry tofu, Hsiang khan [pressed tofu] is colored and avored with caramelized millet sugar and eaten with soups and salads. There are many forms
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of preserved tofu cheese: smoked, salted, spiced and packed in wine and brandy to be used in cooking or as a delicacy like cheeses of the Western World. Yuba, as old as soy beans from which it is made, is the dried creamy lm from boiling soy milk, sold in akes or sheets, or rolled into bean sticks, and it has been one of the most popular commodities in China and Japan for centuries. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term preserved tofu or the term tofu cheese or the term preserved tofu cheese to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. Address: Chef Steward, Consulting food editor of Hotel Management and Restaurant Management magazines, food columnist of Gourmet magazine and author of various cook books. 165. Shih, Kuo-hng. 1944. China enters the machine age: a study of labor in Chinese war industry. Cambridge, Massachusetts: Harvard University Press. xxiv + 206 p. See p. 95. Index. 21 cm. Summary: In Chapter 7, Social accommodations, the section titled Mess hall states (p. 95): On one occasion a badly cooked Chinese bean-curd cheese was served in the unskilled workers mess hall; after a disturbance, workers brought this dish to the shop to show the engineer and asked how they could eat such food and work. Page 97: The calcium intake [of the workers diet] might be adequate if the soy bean curd and pickled vegetables are taken into account. Address: National Yunnan Univ., China. 166. Spencer, Cornelia. 1945. The Chinese people at home. Chicago Daily Tribune. Jan. 11. p. 14. Summary: Chapter three: The section titled Soy bean curd begins: A man is making soy bean curd and setting it out for sale. It stands in shivering squares of white on a cloth which lines the at bamboo tray. Why is this artistic? Well, behind the man is brown dried, pickled bean curd which is used to enhance avors. Also beautiful are the brilliant red bean curd cubes hot with red pepper, which add zest to breakfast. Also framed in the scene are jars of soy sauce. Making this sauce is an art unto itself, for the kind of water used, the amount of fermentation, etc. each affect the nished soy sauce, which is the foundation of Chinese cooking. An illustration shows a handsome and vital Horse, by Ju Pei-hung, part of an exhibition titled Fifteen Contemporary Chinese Painters, organized by the East and West Association, New York. Address: Author of The Exiles Daughter, Made in China, etc. 167. King, Pei-Sung. 1945. Chinese soy sauce and cheese. University of Wisconsin, Fermentation Journal Club, Report No. 22. p. 1-4. June 27. [15 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Review of the literature. Making soy sauce: Laboratory procedure, grades and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU composition of soy sauce (there are 3 grades; the lower the grade, the lower the specic gravity of the soy sauce). Soybean cheese (sufu). An important microorganism for making soybean cheese is Mucor sufu, which was rst isolated by N.S. Wei [sic, Wai] (J. of Chinese Agr. Soc. 1926). Other useful microorganisms for making this product are Monascus (e.g., M. anka, M. purpureus, M. faligiosus [sic, M. fuliginosus], M. major, and M. pilosus), yeasts and bacteria. Some of these have been isolated by the writer in the National Bureau of Industrial Research, China (Bulletin No, 126, 1941). The procedure for making soybean cheese is described, starting with 300 gm of whole soybeans. After pressed tofu cubes are inoculated on the surface with any of various mold species, they are incubated at 25C for 3 days. Then 600 ml of a 16% solution of table salt (NaCl) is added. The 2nd fermentation usually takes two months after which the cheese and liquid are bottled, sterilized, and marketed. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2011) that describes how to make fermented tofu at home or on a laboratory scale. Address: Univ. of Wisconsin. 168. Swingle, Walter T. 1945. Our agricultural debt to Asia. In: Arthur E. Christy, ed. 1945. The Asian Legacy and American Life. New York: The John Day Co. x + 276 p. See p. 84-114. Index. 21 cm. Also published by The Asia Press, 1942. [2 ref] Summary: The beginning and foundation of the Library of Congress Orientalia Collection was the great Chinese encyclopedia, the Ssu ku chuan shu, a gift of the Empress Dowager of China. About 1914, Dr. Swingle, then head of the Ofce of Crop physiology and Breeding, Bureau of Plant Industry, U.S. Dept. of Agriculture, was able to secure the services of a Cornell graduate, Dr. Hing Kwai Fung, to make abstracts and/or translations of information in the Ssu ku chuan shu regarding economic plants. Dr. Swingle interested Dr. Herbert Putnam, Librarian of Congress in increasing the holdings of Chinese books, especially gazeteers [sic, gazetteers] which contain local information. When Dr. Fung returned to China, he was given a modest sum for purchasing books. Dr. Fung was able to persuade the Commercial Press (the largest publishing rm in China, located in Shanghai) to act as receiving agent for books for the Library of Congress, and to ship them to Washington [DC]. Soon after, Dr. Swingle was sent to the Orientin March 1918by the Dept. of Agriculture. There he made arrangements for collecting books in Tokyo and Shanghai. As American merchants and missionaries gradually penetrated into China, they sent home more and more plants and trees. The Arnold Arboretum, organized and directed by the great tree expert, C.S. Sargent, nanced extensive trips to the Orient to obtain botanical specimens and seeds of ornamental trees and shrubs as well as photographs of them
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as they grew in their native habitat. These trees and shrubs revolutionized the garden and park plantings of the northern parts of the United States. The illustrated popular books of E.H. Wilson, who made many trips to the Orient for the Arnold Arboretum, helped to arouse interest in the very rich arboreal ora of China... The Plant Introduction Service of the U.S. Department of Agriculture was organized by David Fairchild in 1897; he did very extensive exploring for foreign economic and ornamental plants from 1898 on, and directed the Plant Introduction Service from 1909 to 1928. I was fortunate enough to be one of the rst agricultural explorers. Of these men Frank N. Meyer and P.H. Dorsett were outstanding, not only for the number and value of the plants they secured, but also for the detailed and accurate descriptions of every plant they sent to Washington. P.H. Dorsett some years later, during the twenties, traveled widely in North China taking many ne photographs of Chinese crop plants and writing descriptions of the culture, harvesting and curing of each. On these trips he collected many varieties of soy beans largely through the utilization of a new and potent method of securing the willing cooperation of all educated Chinese people. A complete translation, prepared by Michael J. Hagerty under my direction in 1917 of the chapter on soy beans contained in a standard Chinese work on economic plants (the Chih Wu Ming Tu Kao by Wu Chi-chun) had been furnished the plant explorers looking for soy bean varieties. This translation, covering eighty-two pages, discussed several hundred varieties, telling where they were largely grown. In all cases the name of the variety and the name of the locality where it was grown were not only spelled out in English but also written carefully in Chinese characters. An index made it easy to turn to any variety under discussion and see what was said about its culture. This was a turning point in eld explorations in China. Such indexed translations in the hands of foreign plant explorers insured the attention of all educated Chinese, who gladly directed the explorer to the nearest source of the various named varieties. I had learned this at rst hand in 1915 when studying varieties of Citrus in southern China. Surprise and skepticism about the foreigners knowledge of Chinese books gave way to astonishment and warm approbation. The soy bean is a striking example of the introduction of a new crop... Soy beans were sent from China to France as early as 1740 and from 1779 were grown in the famous Botanic Garden of Paris. Benjamin Franklin, who had been a member of the French Academy of Sciences since 1772, sent seeds back to the United States and urged that they be given a trial. But in spite of his plea, the soy bean remained merely a curiosity in this country for more than a century. In the late eighties [sic, 1890] Prof. C.C. Georgeson brought soy bean seeds from Japan, where he had been
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU teaching at the Agricultural College at Komaba, and planted them in a eld on the campus of the Kansas State Agricultural College. I could see the stunted soy bean plants from the windows of the botanical laboratory where I was a teen-age research assistant. This variety, adapted to the perpetual spring climate of Komaba near Tokyo, did not do well on the bare Kansas hills, often swept by hot dry winds. And nothing happened. Soy beans did not arouse interest among Kansas farmers until many years after this failure. In the third decade of the twentieth century Dorsett sent to Washington more than 800 named soy bean varieties from China, Manchuria and Japan. These together with shipments secured by Dr. David Fairchild from his numerous correspondents in the Old World, especially in Asia, amounted by 1928 to a total of more than 2800 packages of soy beans, almost all named varieties but many of them duplicated, some of them many times. Meantime tests made by W.J. Morse, in charge of soy bean culture for the Bureau of Plant Industry, showed that many varieties had a narrow range of adaptability. Accordingly, from 1929 to 1931, Morse joined Dorsett in the Orient and these two experts, with trained Chinese helpers, brought to this country the largest single collection of soy bean varieties ever assembled. As soon as Morse returned from studying soy beans in Asia and attacked the problem of nding which Asiatic varieties adapted to the different regions and selecting and breeding to make them t various American soils and climates, a remarkable change occurred in soy bean culture. Yields went up and plantings increased year by year... One of the best-known industrial uses for soy bean proteins is for making water-resistant glue. No less than 30,000 tons of soy bean glue were made in 1942 by a single rm and its licenses annually, most of it being used in the rapidly growing plywood industry. Soy bean proteins have been enthusiastically used by Henry Ford in his automobiles, being mixed with the more expensive phenolic resins, thereby reducing costs and also yielding a more plastic, freer-owing mixture which takes dyes better... As long ago as 1917-1918 Dr. Yamei Kin set up under my general supervision for the U.S. Department of Agriculture a soy bean mill in New York City in the hope of supplying tofu to increase the bulk and food value of meat dishes served to soldiers in training at near-by camps. Dr. Kin succeeded in making excellent tofu. She even served to a group of army ofcers a meal composed entirely of soy bean dishes! However, it proved impossible to test tofu on a large scale at that time, since we could not get priority for transportation of soy beans from North Carolina, then the nearest region where they were grown on any considerable scale. A splendid example of a double fermentation is the soy bean cheese called nam ye by the Cantonese and sufu in North China. It is preferred even to the best Roquefort as a salad dressing constituent by those who have had the
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opportunity to try it. It is made by Chinese masters of the cheesemakers art who believe that its fermentation is an insoluble mystery. Shih Chi-yien, then working in the American University of Soochow, published in 1918 the rst English account of the most important fermented bean foods. He traced the making of tofu from soy beans back to the Han dynasty (A.D. 22). Ten years later Wai Ngan-shou [Nganshou], one of the rst scientically-trained Chinese microbiologists and fermentation experts, was able to isolate and identify as a new species of Mucor the mold that makes possible the nam ye fermentation. It is a curious fungus, Mucor sufu, distantly related to the miraculous Penicillium notatum whose marvelous curative action has only recently been discovered. A third fermentation expert, Shih Youkuang, studied another soy bean fermentation product, meitauza, made by another species of Mucor, and published an illustrated account of it in German in 1937. In his review of the literature of Mucor fermentations, Shih You-kuang cites no fewer than thirty articles by eighteen authors all based on Chinese fermentations... Miss Elizabeth Groff, under my direction in 1918, made a thorough study of the fermentation of soy sauce in the famous factories of Canton, China, and published the rst detailed account of the process in the Philippine Journal of Science for 1919. It has been my privilege to assist in building up a great Chinese library in the Library of Congress, under the enlightened policy of Dr. Herbert Putnam, beginning in 1912. The Orientalia Division, headed by Dr. Arthur Hummel, is now the largest Chinese library outside of Asia and is probably larger than all the European libraries of Chinese books combined. It now contains, Dr. Hummel estimates, about 230,000 Chinese volumes (Chan) and some 20,000 more will soon be added in the form of bibliolm copies of very rare works from the Chinese National Library, sent to Washington for safekeeping. Note 1. This is the earliest secondary document seen that mentions the early introduction of soybeans to America by Benjamin Franklin. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term nam ye to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. It is 2nd earliest Englishlanguage document seen (Oct. 2011) uses the word sufu to refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu, and the rst such document written by a Westerner. Photos show Dr. Walter Tennyson Swingle, and his wife Maude K. Address: Collaborator, Bureau of Plant Industry, USDA; Consultant on Tropical Botany, Univ. of Miami, Florida. 169. Marquis, Arnold. 1946. The Pacic story. Radio broadcast. National Broadcasting Company (NBC). Hollywood, California. June 2. 30 minutes. 23 p. transcript. Summary: This radio broadcast is a fascinating storytold
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU by many voicesof how the Japanese scientically developed soybean production, utilization, and export in their puppet state of Manchukuo, and, how the USA intends to capture the soybean export markets lost by the Japanese when they lost World War II. The Chinese speak of the soybean this way: It is the poor mans meat. It is the cow of China. It is meat without bones. The Japanese speak of it this way: If we could have held Manchuria, it would have guaranteed that Japan could never be starved out. American nutritionists speak of it this way: It is high in protein. It is rich in vitaminsin A, B-1, C, G, and Eand also in the bloodclotting vitamin K. Weight for weight it contains several times as much B-1 as beefsteak. And as for minerals: One-half cup of soy our contains as much calcium as a whole cup of milk... [and] as much phosphorus as two cups of milk. And weight for weight, it contains as much iron as liver, twice as much iron as molasses, and three times as much iron as whole wheat our. The soybean is a wonder food. One pound of soy beans is almost a complete one-day ration for an adult. The USA is now developing two famine-relief foods based on soybeans. The rst contains 50% soybean, plus split peas, wheat our, and a little peanut-meal, onion, salt, and sh-oil. Four million pounds of this mixture and twelve million pounds of another soy-based mixture are being sent to the famine areas of China. In other words, soybean are being sent from the USA to the land of their origin, where they have been a mainstay for ve thousand years. Discusses: The growing of soybeans in Manchuria. The Japanese takeover and extension of their control via the South Manchuria Railroad, whose terminus is Dairen. The importance of Manchurian soybeans to Japan. The Japanese Central Laboratory at Dairen and its research on soybeans. The two Japanese agricultural experiment stations in Manchukuo. Development of the benzine [benzene] solvent extraction process for soybean oil, until there were 200 large bean plants in southern Manchuria. Soybeans as a livestock feed in Manchuria. Use of soybeans as food in China: Tofu is bean-curd... This is fermented tofu. It is very good. Tofu is eaten in several forms. Fresh, fermented, dried or frozen. Just about any way it is prepared, its food value is preserved... We also use the oil of the soy bean. And with the soy bean we make soy sauce. Many Asiatic peoples also use soybeans to make bean milk and bean our. They roast them for confections [kinako]. They eat them green [green vegetable soybeans]. They sprout them [soybean sprouts] and they even make drinks of them. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term fermented tofu. Industrial uses of soybeans in America. How Dairen became Japans great center of the soy bean industry in Manchuria, and the Mixed Storage System. About 55% of the soybeans grown in Manchuria are used for human food. You see, its all tied together. The growing of the
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bean, the processing, the transportation, and the export. Since 1937, the economy of Manchuria has been developed for the benet of Japan. The Japanese and the Bank of Manchukuo (which is an instrument of the powerful Mitsui and Mitsubishi nancial combines) are buying up all the soybean business and trying to eliminate the major European companies that were exporting soybeans before the Japanese moved in, such as Dreyfus Co. (France), and Wassard Co. (Denmark). Although the Japanese claim that Manchukuo is an independent nation, other nations realize it is a puppet state. The Chinese Eastern Railway, which was built by the Russians and has its terminus at Vladivostok, is in competition with the Japanese-controlled South Manchuria Railroad for the soy bean business of Manchuria. The latter uses rebates (kickbacks) to try to eliminate competition. In 1937, after 6 years of dominating Manchuria, Japan invaded China properusing Manchuria to supply their troops. By 1941, Manchuria was yielding some four million tons of soybeans. The Japanese controlled every pound of it. And by 1941 they had fostered the growing of soybeans in Korea, and also in Japan itself. Also, by this time, the Japanese had seized a good part of the soybean country of Japan itself. But by Pearl Harbor [7 Dec. 1941], the United States was also growing soybeans: Over 3 million tons in 1941. By 1945 it was nearly 6 million tons. Now that the war is over, the Japanese have lost the entire soybean industry in Manchuriaincluding the laboratories, bean oil mills, Dairen, the South Manchuria Railroad, and the Bank of Manchukuo which controlled it. China, which now controls Manchuria, will consume much of the soybeans which, before the war, were exported to European countries, and to Japan. The United States has begun to supply this soybean export demand, and in fact is already shipping soybean products back to the Far Eastto the famine stricken areas of China. America Doctor: So far most of our soybeans have gone for feeding livestock. But now we known what they can mean to man. Narrator: Now, in this great crisis, we are learning what the Chinese have known for thousands of years. Chinese: It is the poor mans meat. It is the cow of China. It is meat without bones... Announcer: This is the story of the wonder food and the part it has played in our time. Next comes a 5-minute segment in which W.J. Morse of the USDA Bureau of Plant Industry (Beltsville, Maryland) talks about the signicance of the soybean and its development, and the new Pacic Program. Then the conclusion: For a reprint of this program, send ten cents in stamps or coin to University of California Press, Berkeley, California. The Pacic Story is written and directed by Arnold Marquis. The original musical score was composed and conducted by Thomas Peluse. Your narratorGayne Whitman... This program came to you from Hollywood. This
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU is N.B.C.The National Broadcasting System. Address: USDA. 170. Hilbert, G.E. 1946. Soybean research at the Northern Regional Research Laboratory, 1936-1946. Soybean Digest. Sept. p. 33-34, 72. Summary: In 1936 the U.S. Regional Soybean Industrial Products Laboratory was established at Urbana, Illinois. The chemical and engineering research of that laboratory was transferred by an act of Congress from Urbana to the Northern Regional Research Laboratory at Peoria in July 1942. Removal of part of the laboratory to Peoria has resulted in an expansion of all phases of soybean research. Dr. Reid T. Milner, formerly director of the U.S. Regional Soybean Laboratory, is now head of the analytical and physical chemical division of the NRRL Technological and fundamental research on soybeans is being carried out by the oil and protein division of which J.C. Cowan is in charge. This group is concentrating practically all its activities on soybean oil and meal. Most of our new developments originate in this division. The engineering and development division, headed by C.T. Langford, is translating laboratory developments to a pilot-plant scale. This division obtains cost data and evaluates the economic feasibility of the developments. The fermentation division, headed by A.F. Langlykke, has examined the conversion of soybeans to soybean cheese [fermented tofu] and soya sauce. Address: Director, NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 171. Platt, B.S.; Webb, R.A. 1946. Fermentation and human nutrition. Proceedings of the Nutrition Society (London) 4(1):132-40. [15* ref] Summary: Fermented soy and cereal-soy products found in East Asia may have special nutritive properties as a result of microbial action and they may fall into the group of products of the process which the author calls biological ennoblement. Table 1 includes various fermented soy protein foods from Asia: Soya sauce, fermented whole soya beans, and fermented bean curd. Address: Medical Research Council Human Nutrition Research Unit, National Hospital, Queen Square, London, W.C.1, EnglandEngland. 172. Rodrigo, P.A. 1947. Soybean culture in the Philippines. Philippine J. of Agriculture 13(1):1-22 + 5 plates. Third quarter. Summarized in Soybean Digest, May 1948, p. 41. [14 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Description and history. Climatic and soil requirements. Varieties. Propagation. Preparation of the soil. Fertilizers and lime. Inoculation. Planting. Care of the crop. Harvesting and production: For day, for seed. Cost of production. Uses of soybeans. Diseases. In the big cities in the Islands, many of the soybean products like soy sauce or toyo, tokua, tajuri
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[fermented tofu], tojo [soymilk curds], miso, etc. are becoming more popularly used by the Filipinos, and will be more so as their nutritive values become more fully realized. Already, in some sections of the country where soybean is being grown, the seed is used either as a green or as a dry vegetable. The dried bean is roasted and is eaten offhand or is used in adulterating coffee, and the bean in the dough stage is boiled and eaten like peanut (p. 2). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word tajuri to refer to fermented tofu. Table 1 shows annual imports (in kg) of soybeans and soybean products into the Philippines from 1929 to 1940, including dried beans, soy sauces, soybean meal, tausi (soy nuggets, salted), paste (miso), and total. By far the leading import (by weight) from 1929 to 1937 was dried soybeans. In 1929 some 4,574,497 kg were imported. This gure rose gradually (with ups and downs) to a peak of 5,660,575 kg in 1937, then fell sharply to only 237,666 kg in 1940. Soybean sauces were the No. 2 import, starting with 606,231 kg in 1929, rising to a peak of 1,441,563 kg in 1932, then remaining above 1,000,000 for most years thereafter. Imports of soybean meal started in 1935 with 660,699 kg; they reached a peak 1,023,303 in 1936 (the next year), then remained near 1,000,000 thereafter. Tausi was rst imported in 1940, the amount being 151,571 kg. Table 2 shows the value of these items (in pesos). In 1940 the imports of greatest value were soy sauces (120,346 pesos), soybean meal (50,682), and tausi (20,280). In the Philippines, while the plant has been under cultivation since the Spanish regime [1571-1898], it has not gained much headway due mainly to the lack of a variety suitable for commercial planting, and perhaps due to want of interest among farmers (p. 4-5). The Philippine Bureau of Plant Industry has, to date, introduced more than 200 soybean varieties to the Philippines from the USA, China, Japan, Hawaii, Java, and India, but it presently recommends only a few varieties for commercial planting. These include Ami, which has long been cultivated there and is well adapted to the varied soil and climatic conditions. Based on the results of a number of years trials in different regions of the Islands, the following varieties have been found to be productive: Yellow Biloxi Hybrid (introduced from Hawaii in 1936), Mis 28 E.B. Str. 3910 (introduced from India in 1937), Mis 33 Dixi (introduced from India in 1937), Head Green (introduced from the USA in 1935), and American Black. All of these varieties are good for May and June planting, and all but Yellow Biloxi Hybrid are good for September to December planting (dry season). In the Philippines, the green but fully developed pods are harvested, and the seed is cooked and eaten in practically the same way as lima bean or patani... In Lipa, Batangas, soybean in the dough stage is boiled in the pod and sold and eaten offhand like peanuts. The more common soy
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU products made in the Philippines are soy sauce or toyo, tokua [tofu], tausi [soy nuggets], and miso. Soybean milk is being manufactured by the Bureau of Plant Industry in a limited scale and a big modern rm has started putting soybean milk and other products in the local markets (p. 15-16). Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the word tausi to refer to soy nuggets. Address: Chief, Horticulture Research Section, Bureau of Plant Industry. 173. Brown, Wenzell. 1947. Angry menlaughing men: the Caribbean caldron. New York, NY: Greenberg. xii + 369 p. See p. 33-35. No index. 21 cm. Summary: In the chapter on Cuba, the section titled Havanas Chinatown states (p. 33): Further down the street is a Chinese vegetable shop. Here are sold choi, long white Chinese radishes, cress, and prickly cucumbers. Brown earthenware crocks lled with brine contain white chunks of bean curd cheese, which tastes like strong, ne Roquefort. Mixed with the Chinese vegetables are others which are native to Cuba,... At Wong Kows Restaurant he waits for Wong Kow himself to prepare sweet-sour shrimps and diced spare ribs steeped in a sauce of [fermented] black beans and garlic. There are 32,000 people of Chinese blood in Havana alone. They have become a part of the ber of Cubas life. Chinese were brought to Cuba from Manila and southern Asia more than 100 years ago. The slave trade had been forcibly ended and the sugar plantation owners were in desperate need of substitutes for African slaves. Cuba was the rst foreign country to grant free, unqualied citizenship rights to the Chinese (p. 33-35). Note: The author, an American, has tried to describe the Caribbean as he actually saw it. Americans entered the Caribbean in great numbers during World War II, and in so doing they upset the economy of the lands they entered. America cannot calmly draw out now and leave a wake of ruin. By the expenditure of huge sums of money, we have accepted a grave responsibility to the lands of the Caribbean (p. xii). 174. Smith, Allan K. 1948. Re: Request for information available on the production of foods by fermentation, particularly from soybeans: Soya sauce, miso paste, and soya cheese. Letter to Lewis Lockwood, PhD in Shanghai, China, April 1. 2 p. typewritten. Typed, without signature (carbon copy). Summary: Attached is Smiths 7-page response from the Metropole Hotel, Shanghai, China, dated 7 June 1948. He gives details on the processes for making miso, soya cheese [fermented tofu], katsuobushi, and soy sauce. The questions on soy sauce were answered largely by Mr. Kung and Mr. C.T. Siao of the National Bureau of Industrial Research, 1313 Szechum Road, N. Shanghai, China. The questions on
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miso were answered by Quo Sih Gwan, a Chinese worker that has spent a number of years in Japan. No one around Shanghai knows anything about miso. A second letter from Dr. Smith dated 7 June 1948 (also from the Metropole Hotel, Shanghai), to Dr. Lewis Lockwood at NRRL, Peoria, Illinois, answers questions about miso, katsuobushi, and species of Aspergillus mold (3 pages). Another letter from Smith to Lockwood contains questions concerning soysauce fermentation from Drs. King and Siao. The nal letter from Smith to Lockwood, also dated June 7, contains a questionnaire originally from King and Siao about soya sauce and miso. Smith sends a copy of his responses to Lockwood and asks for suggestions Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 175. Arsenio Manuel, E. 1948. Chinese elements in the Tagalog language: with some indication of Chinese inuence on other Philippine languages and cultures, and an excursion into Austronesian linguistics. Manila, Philippines: Filipiniana Publications. 139 p. April. With a historical introduction by H. Otley Beyer. [110* ref] Summary: Page 58-59: Tah [Taho]: tau (bean) + hu (anything very soft); Bean curd. Variations: toho, tojo. Same in Bikol. Tahu in Sambal. Soybean curd brains are unpressed soybean curd served with medium-thick brown sugar syrup. Thuli [Tahuli]. Variation of thuri [tahuri], which see. Thur [Tahure]. Variation of thuri, which see. Thuri [Tahuri]: tau (bean) + he (semi-liquid, comestible); Fermented soybean curd. Magtatahuri, a maker or seller of tahuri. Variations: tahure, tahuri, tahuli. In Aklanon, Bikol, tawri. Takim: tau (bean) + kim (salty); Salted beans. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Fermented soybean curd refer to Chinese-style fermented tofu. Page 64: Tokwa: tau (bean) + koa (dried, desiccated); Pressed soy-bean curd, or soy-bean cheese; used as an ingredient in pansit, which see, or fried. Magtotokwa, maker or vendor of tokwa. Tokua. Variation of tokwa, which see. Page 65: Toyo: tau (bean) + iu (oil); Soy-bean sauce, soy. Magtoyo, to dress or season with such sauce, to use toyo. Same in Sambal. Tawyo in Bikol. In Mandarin: tou yu. Address: Dep. of Oriental Languages, Univ. of the Philippines. 176. Smith, Allan K. 1948. Re: Visits to plants in China making soy sauce, soy paste, and soy cheese. Letter to Drs. K.B. Raper and L.B. Lockwood, Northern Regional Research Laboratory, Peoria, Illinois, June 23. 1 p. Typed, without signature (carbon copy). [Eng] Summary: I am enclosing further information on soy
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU sauce and soy paste processing. The samples listed by numbers on the descriptions will eventually reach you I hope. In visiting this plant I had two interpreters. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the term soy paste to refer to miso or to Chinese-style miso. I have visited two other soy sauce plants but am not reporting on them at this time. One of these is the Peiping Municipal Soy Sauce Plant which operates much like the pilot plant in Shanghai. I have also visited a sauce plant that claims to have been operating for more than 400 years in the same family and a soy cheese [fermented tofu] plant that has been operated by the same family since the latter part of the Ming Dynasty [mid-1600s]. I doubt if they have changed much in all that time. All of the samples will be in the mails soon... I may have to take some of them back to Shanghai to get them started. Address: Hotel Wagon Lets, Peiping, China. 177. Smith, A.K. 1948. Microorganisms collected in China, Japan, and Korea. 7 p. Unpublished typescript. Summary: Dr. Smith collected 100 samples in Shanghai (58 samples), Nanking (13), Hangchow, Canton, Tokyo, Noda (near Tokyo, Japan), Korea (7). 178. Harris, Robert S.; Wang, F.K.C.; Wu, Y.H.; Tsao, C-H. S.; Loe, L.Y.S. 1949. The composition of Chinese foods. J. of the American Dietetic Association 25(1):28-38. Jan. [12 ref] Summary: Pages 32-33 give a description of (including the place purchased and processing method) and page 35 gives the nutritional composition of the following products: Soybean cheese = Chou tou fu lu. Soybean curd = Tou fu (coagulated with lime). Soybean curd, fermented = Tou fu lu. Soybean curd sheet = Tsian chang tou fu. Soybean curd, smoked = Tou fu kan. Soybean, fermented = Tou chi [soy nuggets]. Soybean, milk clot (oil skin) [yuba] = Yu pi. Soybean sprouts = Huang tou ya. Soybean, yellow (dried) = Ta tou. Soybean, yellow (fresh) = Mao tou. A glossary on page 38 gives the Chinese name (in both Chinese characters, and in Wade-Giles romanization) for the soyfoods mentioned above. Soybean cheese, Chou tou fu lu. Purchased in a shop in Sha Ping Pa. This curd is made by putrefying soybean curd, then sealing it in a preserve jar with wine and spices. After one month it can be eaten with sesame seed oil without cooking. The curd has a very strong odor and avor and it is used as a appetizer by the wealthy and as a main dish by the poor in many provinces. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term tou fu lu or the term Chou tofu fu lu to refer to fermented tofu. Use of the character for Chou may well indicate stinky tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term Tou fu kan [pinyin: doufugan] to refer to smoked tofu. Address: Nutritional Biochemistry Laboratories, MIT, Massachusetts.
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179. Smith, Allan K. 1949. Oriental use of soybeans as food: Notes on Oriental farming practices. II. China. Soybean Digest. March. p. 26-28, 30, 32, 34. Summary: Contents: Soy sauce in China. Sweet our pasteTien Mien Chang [Chiang]. Soy or vegetable milk (incl. Willis Miller, yuba). Soybean curd or tofu (incl. use in Buddhist restaurants to look like meat, poultry, or sh dishes). Soybean cheese [fermented tofu]. Fen-tiao from mung beans (vermicelli). Fermented soybeans [soy nuggets] (made from small black soybeans). Vinegar fermentation process. Address: Northern Regional Research Lab., Peoria, Illinois. 180. Smith, Allan K. 1949. Oriental use of soybeans as food: Soybean cheese [fermented tofu] (Document part). Soybean Digest. March. p. 30. Summary: Soybean curd, previously described, is the starting material for making all types of soybean cheese. In making the curd, it is pressed hard enough so that it can be cut into small cubes, these varying in size for different cheese preparations. Signicant variations in the process, besides the microorganisms, are the proportions of salt and type of solution in which the cheese is aged. The cheese appears to vary somewhat with the locality in which it is produced, a variation due probably to the inuence of climatic conditions on the activity of the fermenting microorganisms. At Hangchow they make a cheese product known as Chee-fan, Chee meaning cheese and fan meaning small cube, hence a literal translation is small cheese cube. This type of cheese was reported to be made in only two localities, Hangchow [pinyin: Hangzhou] and Shoshing [sic, Shao Hsing; pinyin: Shaoxing, in Chekiang (pinyin: Zhejiang) province], the home of the famous Shoshing wine. Chee-fan is a brownish soft cheese. It has both an agreeable smell and taste. The following materials and proportions are recommended for making this cheese. A table shows: Soybeans 70 kg. Salt 25 kg. Yellow wine (Shoshing) 55 kg. In making the cheese the pressed soybean curd, prepared from the recommended amount of beans, is cut into cubes about by by inches. The cubes are inoculated with mold, salted, and placed in an appropriate storage house for about 7 days for development of mold. The mold (Mucor) is grown on wheat our. It exists in Chinese mold of wine and is white in color. Also, Aspergillus glaucus, blue in color, apparently takes part in the cheese development. The cubes are next placed in an earthen crock or wide-mouth bottle of about 2-gallon capacity, and yellow wine and mold of wine are added. It is allowed to age in the wine for about 1 year.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Tsue-fan is another type of cheese that translated literally means drunken cheese. The name probably reects the use of wine in making the cheese. The materials and proportions for this cheese are: A table shows: Soybeans 70 kg. Salt 15 kg. Wine 35 kg. The pressed soybean curd, cut into cubes 1 by 1 by inches, is boiled in water, cooled, and partly dried. It is molded and placed in yellow wine (rice wine) with wine mold added and aged for 6 months. Hon-fan is a red cheese that makes use of soy sauce in its preparation. The materials and their proportions are as follow: A table shows: Soybeans 70 kg. Salt 30 kg. Soy sauce 10 kg. Red mold (from Foochow) 0.75 kg. This cheese is made in the same manner as drunken cheese except that soy sauce rather than wine is used in aging the cheese. It was reported that red cheese is made only in the fall of the year. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Chee-fan or the term Tsue-fan or the term drunken cheese or the term Hon-fan to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Northern Regional Research Lab., Peoria, Illinois. 181. Smith, Allan K. 1949. Oriental methods of using soybeans as food: With special attention to fermented products. Notes on Oriental farming practices. USDA Bureau of Agricultural and Industrial Chemistry. AIC-234. June. 40 p. Summary: Page 1 states: The text of this bulletin, with slight revisions, is as it appeared serially in The Soybean Digest, issues of February through June, 1949, although many additional photos appear herein. It is processed with the publishers permission. Note: An enlarged 65 page edition was issued in July 1961. Photos show: (1) Nine people in a eld cultivating soybean with hoes near Nanking, China. All of these workers but one are women. July 1948. (2) The three-man shovel, Korean version of the turning plow. The motive power is supplied by the mean holding the ropes. (3) A man and donkey threshing wheat with a stone roller. (4) A water buffalo and man pumping water from the rice elds. All parts of the pump and elevator are made of wood. Near Nanking, China, July 1948. (5) Windmill used for pumping water. The sails or vanes are mats woven from grass. (6) Children with baskets of soybean sprouts and inated Chinese national currency in the market place at Canton, China. Aug. 1948. (7) Soybean milk for sale on the streets of Canton, China. Aug. 1948. It is in bottles, carried using a shoulder pole. (8) A wedge press for oilseed operations at Canton, China. Preformed disks of the aked or ground meal are inserted in the slot and turned clockwise in the hollow log; pressure is applied with wooden wedges. July 1948. (9) Equipment for steaming soybeans preparatory to making soy sauce. Steam is passed upward through the wooden tanks from a boiler
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beneath. Peiping, China. 1948. (10) Soy sauce preparation. Steamed soybeans are placed in woven baskets or trays for 3 to 7 days to permit the growth of the mold Aspergillus oryzae. Nanking, China. July 1948. (11) Many earthenware jars for soy sauce production in a courtyard surrounded by houses. Following the growth of a thick mold on the soybeans, they are mixed with parched and cracked wheat and placed with salt solution in earthenware jars for fermentation, which lasts 3 months to 2 years. Soy paste [chiang] is fermented in a similar manner but it contains less water and the fermentation period is about 3 months. Shanghai, China. Aug. 1948. (12) Soybean curd and vegetables displayed for sale in market place, Seoul, Korea. Aug. 1948. (13) Squares of soybean curd covered with white mold on round, woven bamboo trays. This is the rst step in making soybean cheese. Canton, China, Aug. 1948. (14) Two rows of large hydraulic presses in the mill of the China Vegetable Oil Company, Shanghai. June 1948. (15) Men loading round, hydraulic-pressed soybean cakes onto a truck, on the Bund. Shanghai, July 1948. (16) Men and an ox preparing a seed bed at a Japanese agricultural experiment station near Tokyo. 1948. (17) A miso plant in Tokyo. The large tubs [vats] in foreground are used for the fermentation of miso. A part of this plant was destroyed by bombs during the war. Aug. 1948. (18) Three men standing by presses destroyed during bombing raids over Tokyo. These presses formerly were used for ltering monosodium glutamate. July 1948. (19) Many stacked wooden tubs of ajinomoto (monosodium glutamate) ready for shipment at a plant located between Tokyo and Yokohama, Japan. Aug. 1948. This plant had a maximum production of 7.5 million pounds of ajinomoto in 1937. (20) Agricultural Experiment Station near Seoul, Korea. This station was built by the Japanese during their occupation of Korea. Later it was taken over and administered by the newly formed Korean Government. Aug. 1948. (21) A Korean boy standing in a eld of sorghum interplanted with soybeans; this is a common practice in Korea. 1948. (22) A boy using a shoulder pole to carry two wooden buckets of night soil to the land. Korea. 1948. (23) A wooden shopper looking over the different varieties of soybeans in the market place at Seoul, Korea. Aug. 1948. (24) Outline map of Korea showing where principal varieties of soybeans are grown, the section in which each variety is found, the acreage, and production. Address: Head of Meal Products Investigations, Oilseed Crops Lab., Northern Utilization Research and Development Div., Peoeia, Illinois. 182. Bureau of Entomology & Plant Quarantine, Bureau of Animal IndustryU.S. Food & Drug Administration. 1949. Food and DrugAgriculture. List of Imports Detained by the Federal Food and Drug Administration. July 22 to Aug. 19, 1949. American Import & Export Bulletin 31(3):684-89. Sept. Summary: This is a long (6-page) table with 3 columns:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (1) Product and port of entry. (2) Quantity. (3) Reason for detention. Note that the country of origin is not given. Page 684: Port of Chicago. Thin Soy2 casesLabeling inadequate. Chinese Foods (Canned Fish and Thin Soy) 35 casesLabeling incomplete, decomposed. Page 684: Port of San Franciscocontinued. Page 686: Port of New Yorkcontinued Tuna (solid pack in soybean oil)600 cartonsDecomposed; no English label; not Tuna but Bonita. Page 687: Port of San Francisco. Bean Sauce480 lbs Filthy. Bean Curd320 lbsFilthy. Cnd. [Canned] Bean Sauce720 lbsFilthy. Dried Bean Curd Sticks400 lbs Filthy. Cnd. [Canned] Salted Bean Curds200 lbsInsect infected. Note: This may well be fermented tofu. Page 688: Port of San FranciscoContinued. Bean Curd400 lbsFilthy. Dried Bean Curd400 lbsFilthy. Note: Dried Bean Curd is probably dried yuba rather than dried tofu. Cnd. [Canned] Bean Curd48 lbsFilthy. Dried Bean Curd280 lbsFilthy. Bean Sticks800 lbs Filthy. Note: This periodical was published once a month, 2 volumes a year (6 numbers per volume), from July 1934 to March 1974 by the North American Publishing Co. (New York). 80 volumes total. 183. Vegetarian News Digest (Los Angeles).1949. Health in the news: The soy beanwonder food of many uses. 1(9):21. Sept/Oct. Summary: Allan K. Smith of the Northern Regional Research Laboratory, Peoria, Illinois, recently returned to the United States from the Orient where he learned of countless uses for soy beans. In China, Japan and Korea he found soy beans being fermented, ground, and processed in various ways. In its motherland, Smith discovered, the soybean is a source of our and cake, oil, bean sprouts, vegetable milk, various sauces and pastes, curd, cheese, and several other foods. Describes how soy milk is made in China. One restaurant that Smith visited prepared more than 25 different dishes from soybeans. 184. Wilkins, William Vaughan. 1949. Once upon a time: an adventure. New York, NY: Macmillan Co. 359 p. * Summary: A work of ction. Page 91: I have even sampled Nan yoy kow yook, which is pork cooked with Chinese red cheese. 185. Bureau of Entomology & Plant Quarantine, Bureau of Animal IndustryU.S. Food & Drug Administration. 1950. Food and DrugAgriculture. List of Imports Detained by the Federal Food and Drug Administration. Nov. 18 to Dec. 16, 1949. American Import & Export Bulletin 32(2):145-46, 148-49. Feb. Summary: This is a long (4-page) table with 3 columns: (1) Product and port of entry. (2) Quantity. (3) Reason for
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detention. Note that the country of origin is not given. Page 146: Port of Chicago. Chinese Merchandise. Salted Bean Sauce10 casesInsects. Dried bean sticks10 casesInsects. Salted Bean Curds2 casesLabeling incomplete and lthy. Note: This could well be fermented tofu. Page 149: Port of San Francisco. Bean Sauce1,440 lbs.Insect larvae. Dried Bean Curd1,800 lbs.Insects, insect larvae. Note: This could be either dried yuba or pressed tofu (doufu-gan). 186. Nakazawa, Ryoji. ed. 1950-1964. Hakk oyobi seibutsu kagaku bunken-sh [Bibliography of fermentation and biological chemistry]. Tokyo: Nihon Gakujitsu Shinkokai/ Hirokawa Publishing Co. 11 volumes. In European languages and Romanized Japanese. [500 soy ref. Eng; Jap] Summary: Contains extensive, excellent bibliographies on the following soy-related subjects (listed here alphabetically): Amazake (p. 139, only 2 references). Kzi (Koji) (p. 398-410). Mirin (p. 464-65). Miso (p. 465-68). Natto (p. 8-9). Natto bacteria (p. 9-10). Penicillium (p. 210-63; see p. 240 for tempeh and ontjom). Rhizopus (p. 81-97). Soybean and soybean cake (p. 271-77). Syyu [Shoyu] (p. 436-49). Thu (p. 498, only 3 references, all for nonfermented tofu). Each bibliography lists the documents in approximately chronological sequence. An unnumbered page near the beginning titled (in Japanese characters only) Shuy Inyo Bunken [Main Periodicals Cited] lists 51 such periodicals, of which 12 are in Japanese. Of these twelve, all have the title written in Chinese characters, with an English translation, and a Chinese plus a romanized abbreviation of the Japanese title. Two examples: No. 2. Nippon Nogei Kagaku Kaishi. J. Agr. Chem. Soc. Japan [J. of the Agricultural Chemical Society of Japan]. N-ka. No. 4. Nihon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi. J. Fermentation Association Soc. Japan. Zy-Ky. Note that much of the romanization throughout these 11 volumes is based on a system that is no longer used. Nakazawa was born in 1878. Address: Japan. 187. Brown, Helen Evans. 1950. Chang dish book. Los Angeles, California: The Ward Ritchie Press. [21] + 141 + 8 p. Index. 16 x 16 cm. Summary: This stylish little cookbook reects the growing inuence of Asian (especially Chinese) culture and cuisine in Californiaand the authors enthusiasm for it. The recipe for sukiyaki (#93) calls for a soy bean cake [a cake of tofu]. A footnote to the recipe for Chinese spinach (#117) states: The Chinese would add a piece of fermented bean cake to this; a piece of bleu cheese gives much the same effect. Helen Brown uses soy sauce to season all of her Chinese- and Japanese-style recipes: Nos. 32, 60, 64, 73, 77, 87, 89, 91, 93, 117. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term soy bean cake or a soy
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bean cake to refer to tofu. Address: Pasadena, California. 188. Feng, Doreen Yen Hung. 1950. The joy of Chinese cooking. New York: Greenberg. 227 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. Summary: The section on Ingredients describes each basic ingredient, and gives the Cantonese name plus Chinese characters, including: (1) Soya sauce (jeung yow) is an absolutely essential basic ingredient. It can nowadays be found in almost all neighborhood delicatessen or grocery shops (p. 21). (2) Bean sprouts (dow ngaah). They are usually golden yellow in color and possess a strong avor and a rather crunchy texture. An illustration shows these sprouts, which appear to be soybean sprouts (p. 22-23). (3) Two types of dried yuba (fooh jook and tiem jook), both illustrated. When soya bean milk is boiled, it separates into various layers; the rich cream that rises is called fooh jook, and the settling sediment is called tiem jook [sweet yuba]. When dried, they look like stiff boards glazed with enamel, but after they have been cooked they become creamy and gelatinous. Tiem jook is used in sh dishes; while fooh jook is usually cooked in soup (p. 30-31). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term fooh jook to refer to yuba, or the term tiem jook to refer to yubaspecically to the thicker, sweeter, less expensive bottom yuba, called amayuba in Japan. (4) Chinese sauces (jeung) come in bottles or cans (p. 32): (4a) Soya sauce (jeung yow) is an almost black sauce made from soya beans. The best substitute is Maggi. (4c) Bean-curd cheese (fooh y) [fermented tofu] Grayishwhite little cubes of pressed bean-curd fermented in strong wine. It may be used in cooking. (4d) Bean-curd cheese, Eastern style (naam y) [fermented tofu]. Fermented in a brick-red sauce, it is usually used for cooking. (4f) Tiny black fermented beans (dow see) [soy nuggets]. In cooking, these are generally crushed and used to season other strongsmelling ingredients such as sh. They add a delightful spiciness to the sauce. (4g) A famous red sauce (hoy sien jeung) [Hoisin sauce]. This famous red sauce is often used in cooking shellsh and duck; it is widely served with Peking roast duck. There follows a description (p. 33) of how to make bean-curd cheese from fresh bean curd. (5) Oils and fats, incl. vegetable oils like soya bean oil, peanut oil, or sesame oil. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms Bean-curd cheese (with hyphen) or fooh y or naam y to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2008) that mentions Hoisin sauce, whose Chinese name is haihsien chiang (Wade-Giles) or haixian jian (pinyin). Its main ingredient is soybeans. Soy related recipes include: Pigs feet soya bean soup (Jh gerk fooh jook tong, with yuba, p. 80). Oyster sauce
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bean curds (Ho yow dow fooh, with fresh bean curd, p. 155). Many other recipes use soya sauce as a seasoning. Note: This book was rst published in 1950 by Greenberg in New York City (227 p., 24 cm). It was next published in 1952 by Faber and Faber in London (227 p., 23 cm). Grosset & Dunlap (1954) appears to be the third. 189. Product Name: Bean Cake (Ad). Manufacturers Name: Quong Hop & Co. Manufacturers Address: In: Hokubei Mainichi Nenkan [Hokubei Mainichi Year Book]. 1951. p. 17. Phone: YUkon 2-1739. Date of Introduction: 1951. January.
New ProductDocumentation: Ad ( page, horizontal). The top of this ad is in English: Quong Hop & Co., 133 Waverly Place, San Francisco 8, California. Phone: YUkon 2-1739. A large photo shows a pint jar of Quong Hop fermented tofu. The front label reads: Since 1906. Quong Hop & Co. Bean Cake. Ingredients: Soy bean, alcohol, and salt. In Chinese (to right of photo): Since 1906 the old maker (shop). Many years of experience and using very selective ingredients. It is the best side dish with your evening drinks. Please buy at your local grocery store. Text similar to that at top of ad (in English) is repeated to left of photo in Japanese. Directory entry, p. 38. Category: Funyu wholesalers. 190. Product Name: Bean Cake: Funyu. Manufacturers Name: Quong Yuen Sing & Co. Manufacturers Address: 727 Sacramento St., San Francisco 8, California. Phone: YUkon 2-1849. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Ingredients: Soya bean, alcohol, salt. How Stored: Shelf stable. New ProductDocumentation: Ad ( page) Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 17. A fairly large photo shows a pint jar of fermented tofu. The label (in English and Chinese) is hard to read except for the small words Bean cake. Ingredients: Soya bean, alcohol, salt. The
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text in Chinese: Good tasting. Please ask for it at your local Japanese grocery store. Directory entry, p. 38. Category: Funyu wholesalers. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word Funyu to refer to fermented tofu (one of two documents). Note 2. This company is probably not related to Quong Hop and Co. since both have competing advertisements on the same page of this 1951 yearbook. 191. Product Name: Funyo Bean Cakes. Manufacturers Name: Sang Yuen Co. Manufacturers Address: 61 Broadway St., San Francisco 8, California. Phone: YUkon 2-1789. Date of Introduction: 1951. January. Ingredients: Soya bean, alcohol, salt. How Stored: Shelf stable. New ProductDocumentation: Ad ( page) Hokubei Mainichi Year Book. 1951, p. 17. A large illustration shows a pint bottle of fermented tofu. The label states (in English and Chinese): Sang Yuen Co. Bean cakes. Ingredients: Soya bean, alcohol, salt. The text in Chinese: Nutritious and tasty seasoning. Fresh / raw Funyo. Buy it at your nearest Japanese grocery store. Directory entry, p. 38. Category: Funyu wholesalers. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word Funyo or the word Funyu to refer to fermented tofu (one of two documents). Note: A handwritten note in the Soyinfo Center les reads as follows: Soy cheese mfg. [manufacturer]. John Chen, China Pacic Co., 333 Sacramento St., San Francisco, Calif. Written to K.B.R. from H.J. Phaff. The note is
undated; in the 1990s the date was estimated as 1942 and the source as A.K. Smith of the USDA Northern Regional Research Lab. 192. Nicholls, Lucius. 1951. Tropical nutrition and dietetics. 3rd ed. London: Baillire, Tindall and Cox. ix + 476 p. Feb. Illust. 24 cm. [40+* ref] Summary: Table XI (p. 22), Chemical and biological evaluation of proteins for growing rats, contains 6 columns: Foodstuff, digestibility, Biological Value, Net Utilisation [NPU], Protein efciency ratio, chemical score, and limiting amino-acid. There is agreement in all methods of the high value of milk, eggs, and other foods of animal origin, and among those of vegetable origin, the proteins of soya bean our hold a high place. Values for soya bean curd [tofu] are also included. The next section is on supplementing proteins. The long section titled Pulses (legumes) (p. 219-35) has this contents: Introduction. Dhals (Dals; peas which have been shelled, split and polished). Peanut. Bambara earth pea (Voandzeia subterranea). Soya bean: Importance in Asia, used in may forms: Nearly-ripe seeds [edamam or green vegetable soybeans], dry seeds, soya bean emulsion (Milkcontains a detailed description of how soya milk [Vitasoy] is made in Hong Kong, including exact amounts of all ingredients for 800 oz and the nutritional composition (%)), soya bean curd (may be smoked or dried), fermented curds [fermented tofu], fermented beans (tmp), soya bean sauce, sprouted soya beans, soya bean ours, mixtures of soya beans and cereals, milk substitutes (for infant feeding in China). The genus Phaseolus may be divided into two types: Those of Asian origin and those of New World origin (Americas). Cow pea (Vigna sinensis, V. unguiculata,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU V. sesquipedalis). Egyptian kidney bean (Dolichos lablab). Horse gram. Chick pea. Cluster bean (Cyamopsis psoralioides). Four-angled bean or Goa bean (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus). Locust bean (Ceratonia siliqua). African locust bean (Parkia biglobosa, P. licoidea). Sword bean (Canavalia gladiata). Jack bean (Canavalia ensiformis). Velvet bean (Mucuna spp.). Honey locust (Prosopis juliora). Garden pea (Pisum sativum). Broad bean (Vicia fabanot a tropical plant). Yam bean (Pachyrrhizus erosus). West Indian locust (Hymena courbaril). Madras thorn (Pithecellobium dulce). PhaseolusAsian: Phaseolus aureus: green gram [mung bean]. Phaseolus mungo: black gram. Phaseolus calcaratus: rice bean. Phaseolus actinifolius: moth bean. Phaseolus angularis: adzuki bean. New World: Phaseolus lunatus: lima bean. Phaseolus vulgaris: kidney bean. Phaseolus multiorus: scarlet runner. The subsection titled Substitutes for milk (p. 231-35) discusses soya milk. Goitrogenicity of [raw] soya beans (p. 376). Saponins in foodstuffs (incl. soya bean; p. 385). Table 62 (p. 404-05) gives the botanical name and composition of pulses, incl. soya bean, soya bean curd, soya bean milk, carob bean, Goa bean, tepary bean. Table 66 (p. 410-11) does the same for fresh legumes, incl. broad bean, French beans, pea, pea nuts, and sprouted soya. Table 67 does the same for nuts, oil seeds, and miscellaneous seeds, incl. almonds, coconut, coconut water, coconut milk, linseed, pumpkin seed, sesame (gingelly), sunower seed, and sunower seed (kernel). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term fermented curds to refer to fermented tofu. Note 2. The title C.M.G. (Companion of St. Michael and St. George) is an honor conferred upon those for distinguished service in the British colonies or commonwealth. Also discusses: Marmite (autolysed yeast, p. 158, 302). Fluorine in teeth and uorosis (p. 170, 38). The many species of millet and sorghum (p. 216-18). Coconut, coconut milk, palm oil, red palm oil benniseed of Nigeria, gingelly oil, sesame, sim-sim, til (p. 254-60). Yeast (dried; Torula utilis, Brewers yeast, Bakers yeast, Marmite) (p. 302-03). Lucius Nicholls was born in 1884. Address: C.M.G., M.D., B.C., B.A. (Cantab.). Late Director of Bacteriological and Pasteur Institutes, and Director of Div. of Nutrition, Ceylon; Lecturer in Nutrition, Ceylon Univ.; Late Lecturer on Tropical Medicine, Ceylon Medical College; Nutrition Adviser to Commissioner General, South East Asia. Presently at Cookham Dean [just west of London, England]. 193. Brown, Helen Evans. 1952. Helen Browns West Coast cook book. Boston, Massachusetts: Little, Brown and Company. xvi + 443 p. See p. 396. Index. 21 cm. [85* ref] Summary: Reects the history and ethnic diversity of West Coast cookery, including the Asian (especially the Chinese)
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inuenceand the authors enthusiasm for it. For Helen Brown is a superb writer!as much an artist with words as she is with foods. This informal book is a labor of culinary love, about the foods she has cooked and enjoyed in three Pacic Coast statesCalifornia, Oregon and Washington. Soy related recipes: Sukiyaki (p. 108-09), with soy bean cake [tofu] (if desired), cut in cubes. At each place put small dishes for soy [sauce] (shoyu, to the Japanese),... Sculpin Serisawa (p. 160-61). Sculpin is a type of sh. To make the basting sauce, mash a cake of Fu Yu (soy bean cheese [fermented tofu], available in Oriental markets) or 2 tablespoons of blue cheese, and add 2 tablespoons of soy sauce,... Chinatown spinach (p. 396), calls for a slice of fermented bean curd if it is available. (If not, 2 tablespoons blue of cheese may be substitutedits not the same but has a similar sharp avor). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Fu Yu to refer to fermented tofu. Soy sauce is called for in Asian (mostly Chinese) recipes on the following pages: 17, 19, 82, 102, 103, 140-41, 142, 160-61, 163, 165-67, 171, 173, 198-99, 253, 255, 262, 273, 276, 288, 297, 298, 301 307, 311, 331, 337, 352, 363, 369, 370, 376. A large photo of lovely Helen Brown in her kitchen adorns the rear dust jacket. Talk with Akasha Richmond. 2004. Feb. 19. Helen Evans Brown and James Beard were very close friends. He wrote a nice passage of praise for this book on the dust jacket and their collected correspondence has been published as a book. When Beard died, Janet Jarvitz bought his superb book collection, opened a bookstore in the Los Angeles area, and preceded to sell it. Helen Brown married a cookbook collector, Philip, who was also her skilled editor. She made good use of his vast collection in developing her own recipes. Note 2. Before she met her husband, Philip, Helen Evans Brown had a career as a successful caterer and was running a restaurant in New England. Philip courted her and persuaded her to head to the West Coast with him. Married for almost 30 years, they lived in Pasadena, California, from 1937 until her untimely death in 1964. In Southern California, Helen started work as a consultant to a Hollywood bakery and Philip began working in an antiquarian bookshop. Philip did much to build Helens book collection. He also acted as a taster, research assistant, and typist on book projects. Address: Pasadena, California. 194. Lockwood, Lewis B.; Smith, A.K. 1952. Fermented soy foods and sauce. Yearbook of Agriculture (USDA) p. 357-61. For the year 1950-51. Crops in Peace and War. Summary: Contents: Introduction (The whole soybean is not usually eaten. In East Asia, the people favor mostly fermented soy products). In East Asia people live largely on
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU a vegetable diet (In China it is estimated that meat and eggs comprise less than 3% of the food of the peasants, compared with 21% among Americans. An estimated 95% of the protein consumed in China is of vegetable origin, and much of it comes from soybeans, which constitute about 20% of the basic diet in northern China). Japanese soy sauce or shoyu. Soybean paste. Soybean cheeses are made by fermenting soybean curd. Chinese soy saucea two-step fermentation and its organisms (the process is described in detail). Making soy sauce by the chemical method. How to make miso (red miso, black miso). Soybean cheeseshow to make them: Sufu, Red sufu, Chee-fan (a brownish soft cheese made with Shaoshing wine), Tsue-fan, Honfan. Soy sauce in the United States. Red sufu is a red cheese. It is prepared in much the same way that sufu is, except that the curd cubes and red rice are placed in alternate layers in deep vessels where the brine fermentation is started. The red rice is a Chinese product made by growing the mold Monascus ruber in the grains of polished white rice until the entire grain is permeated with the coloring matter. The red rice contributes a pleasant taste and aroma to the red sufu cheese. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Red sufu or the term red sufu cheese refer to fermented tofu. Note: By 1975 Lockwood was at the Biology Dept., Western Kentucky Univ., Bowling Green, KY (see Smith & Berry 1975). Address: U.S. Dep. of Agriculture (Smith; NRRL, Peoria, Illinois). 195. Stern, Arthur Marvin. 1952. Studies on the physiology of Mucor mucedo and its role in the fermentation of soybean curds. PhD thesis, University of Illinois at UrbanaChampaign. 112 p. Page 485 in volume 12/01 of Dissertation Abstracts International. [50+ ref]* Summary: Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (July 2009) that uses the word curds or the term soybean curds to refer to tofu. Address: Illinois. 196. David-Perez, Enriqueta. comp. and ed. 1953. Recipes of the Philippines. Philippines: Published by the author. Printed by Capitol Publishing House, Inc. (Philippines). 124 p. Illust. by S. Serna. No index. 23 cm. Summary: Almost all the recipes in this book have Filipino names, with no English translation of those names. A surprisingly large number contain soyfoods, especially toyo (soy sauce). The glossary (p. 121-23) states: Misu is misoa paste made of fermented rice and soy beans. Tajure is fermented soy beans, caked [fermented tofu]. Tausi is fermented [black] soy beans with salt [soy nuggets]. Tokua is soy bean curd [tofu]. Toyo is Filipino-style soy sauce. Recipes followed by an asterisk (*) call for toyo. Soy-related recipes include: Chicken rellenoI * (p. 15). Chicken pastel * (p. 27). Lengua (with soy sauce, p. 20).
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Morcon * (p. 21). Pancit molo * (p. 22). Adobo * (p. 24). Arroz caldo with chicken (with 3 tbsp. patis or soy sauce, p. 28). Bagus en tochoI (with 1 cube tajure, p. 34), Bagus en tocho2 (with 2 tbsp. each tajure and tausi, and 1 cake tokua cut into pieces 3/4 inch long and 1/8 inch wide, p. 35). Bulanglang1 (with 1 cup tokua, cubed and fried, p. 38). Burong isda (with 1 tbsp. angkakfermented red rice, p. 39). Sauce for pipi-an (with 1 small jar peanut butter, p. 41). Escabecheng apahap (with 4 pieces tokua, p. 46). EscabecheMacao style * (p. 71). Escabeche with papaya * (p. 48). Fritada * (p. 50). Kari-karing pata (with cup ground toasted peanuts or peanut butter, p. 51). Lengua estofada * (p. 53). Lumpia labongBamboo shoot (with 5 bean cakestokua, p. 55). Lumpia sauce (with cup toyo sauce, p. 56). Lumpia with papaya * (p. 56). Lumpia with peanuts (with 2 squares tokuadiced, 2 tbsp. toyosoy sauce, and 1 cup ground peanuts, p. 57). Lumpia with ubod2 (with 2 cakes tokua, and toyo to taste, p. 58). Meat balls with sotanghon * (p. 59). Menudo de rabo * (p. 60). Misu-tomato sauce (with 2 tbsp. misusoy bean paste, p. 61). Paksiw na pata * (p. 64). Paksiwpork (with soy sauce, p. 64). Paksiw na lechon (with 3 tbsp. soy sauce, p. 65). Pancit guisado * (p. 65). Pancit luglug (with cup soy bean caketokuacut into small cubes, p. 66). Pork tapa * (p. 72). Umba (with 2 tbsp. toyo and 1 heaping tbsp. tausi, p. 80). Pastillas de mani (with 1 can ground peanuts, p. 89). A glossary at the end contains brief denitions of uncommon ingredients. Denitions of the soy-related ingredients above are taken from this glossary. Angkak is red-colored grains of rice used as coloring for fermented sh. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word tajure to refer to fermented tofu, or the word misu to refer to miso. Note 2. On the title page is printed 4th printingMay 1956. Address: P.O. Box 3288, Manila, Philippines. 197. Wong, Walter. 1954. The Chinese restaurant. Sanitarian (The) 16(5):236-42. March/April. See p. 240 Summary: Page 240: Foo Yee or preserved soy bean cakes are the Doe Foo preserved in an alcoholic solution. The Chinese eat these directly from the jar, without further cooking, although a small quantity of oil is added before eating. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term foo yee to refer to fermented tofu. 198. Chang, Yet-oy. 1954. Soybean products as supplements to rice in Chinese diets with special reference to their protein and calcium content. PhD thesis, Columbia University, New York. 67 p. Page 1201 in volume 14/08 of Dissertation Abstracts International. [30+ ref]
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: The diet containing soybean curd (Tou fu) gave the best growth and calcication, followed by diets containing dried yellow soybeans (Ta tou),... soybeans, fermented (Tou chi) [soy nuggets], then soybean fermented curd (Tou fu lu) (also called fermented soybean curd in this abstract) [fermented tofu], last. Soybean curd production is encouraged where animal proteins are in short supply. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term soybean fermented curd to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Columbia Univ. 199. Feng, Doreen Yen Hung. 1954. The joy of Chinese cooking. New York: Grosset & Dunlap. 226 p. Undated. Illust. Index. 21 cm. Summary: This hardcover Chinese cook book retails for $3.95. The contents and pagination are the same as in the original 1950 edition of the same title. 200. Huard, Pierre; Durand, Maurice M. 1954. Connaissance du Viet-Nam [Known in Vietnam)]. Paris and Hanoi: Ec. Fse., Impremerie Nationale. 357 p. See p. 189. 25 cm. [Fre]* Summary: The chapter titled Aliments et boissons [Foods and beverages] discusses fermented tofu. 201. Smith, Henry. 1954. Classical recipes of the world, with occasions for their use and master culinary guide. New York, NY: The Macmillan Co. vii + 631 p. 20 cm. Summary: This is a sort of encyclopedia, with the entries listed alphabetically and no index. Under China (p. 165) is a list of Some popular Chinese dishes including Nan Yoy Kow YokBroiled pork stewed with Chinese cheese. Address: F.H.C.I., M.C.F.A., author, Retford in Nottinghamshire, England. 202. Chen, Philip S.; Chen, Helen D. 1956. Soy cheese (Document part). In: P.S. Chen and H.D. Chen. 1956. Soybeans for Health, Longevity, and Economy. South Lancaster, Massachusetts: The Chemical Elements. 241 p. See p. 106-10. Cap. 12. Summary: Soy cheese is tofu. Starts by describing how to make tofu. A very interesting photo (p. 108) shows Early soy cheese production in the United States (probably at Madison College in Madison, Tennessee). Soybean curd contains 7 to 9 percent of highly digestible protein with little carbohydrates and no crude ber, and therefore has been aptly described by the Chinese as the meat without bones (p. 108). From the soybean curd are derived three products of which the Chinese are very fond. They are Tofu Kan [pressed tofu], Tofu Pi [pressed tofu sheets] and fermented soybean cheese [fermented tofu]. These are briey described below. Tofu Kan, or dried soybean curd, is made by lling a small straw or cloth bag with soybean curd and subjecting it to great pressure to reduce further the water content. The
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product [each cake] measured about 2 by 2 by inches and has the consistency of a soft rubber eraser. The dried soybean curd thus prepared may be seasoned with burnt millet-sugar or soy sauce avored with tea or other spices. Tofu Pi, or soybean curd skin, is formed by pressing soybean curd between sheets of cloth under great pressure. The formed Tofu Pi is like a sheet of canvas about one foot square. It is generally used as a wrapper for sausage. Fermented soybean cheese is made in several forms and with different avors. They are prepared by exposing cubes of soybean curd (from by by to 1 by 1 by inches) on matting to mould for a week or longer, and then placing it is salted rice wine or salted soy sauce to age for 6 months to a year. Besides soybean curd and other soybean products, another food product derived from soy milk that is popular among the Oriental people is Yuba. The Yuba is the name given to the protein lm that forms on the surface of soy milk when the latter is heated nearly to the boiling point. It is removed with sticks, hung on a line and dried in the form of sheets or sticks. Before being use, it is wetted back by soaking in water. The Yuba is sheet form is like Tofu Pi and nds similar uses. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2010) in which Chinese author (Philip S. Chen, Ph.D.) uses the Japanese word Yuba to refer to this delectable soyfood, which is popular in both China and Japan. Its Chinese name makes no sense when translated into Englishbean curd skin. Dr. Chen was a Seventh-day Adventist. Address: 1. Prof. of Chemistry, Atlantic Union College, South Lancaster, Massachusetts; 2. National Science Foundation Fellow, Cornell Univ. 203. Sia, Mary Li (Mrs. Richard H.P. Sia). 1956. Mary Sias Chinese cookbook. Honolulu, Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press. 148 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. [Eng; chi] Summary: A recipe (p. 48) for Steamed sh with black beans calls for 1 T. [tablespoon] preserved Chinese black beans, 1 tablespoon chopped ginger, 1 button garlic, crushed. In this edition, tofu is called taofu instead of bean curd as in previous editions. There is paragraph about taofu (p. 21-22). Other soy related recipes: Taofu and shrimp eggs (p. 30). Oxtail Soup (with black beans, p. 36). Taofu, egg and chicken blood (p. 38). Taofu and pork soup (p. 38). Turnip and taofu soup (p. 39). Prawns and taofu (p. 55). Pork and red bean curd (red fermented tofu, p. 98). Pork hash, taofu and peas (p. 102). Red roast pork and taofu (p. 102). Roast pork and taofu (p. 103). Bean sprouts and dried taofu (with pressed tofu = doufu-gan, p. 110). Monks food (with red bean curd = red fermented tofu, p. 113) Stuffed taofu (p. 130). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2008) that uses the word taofu to refer to tofu.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note 2. An almost identical edition of this book was published in 1959 by the same publisher. The recipe for black beans (p. 48) cited above also appears on page 48 of the 1959 edition. 204. Benjamin, Chester R.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1957. The genus Actinomucor. Mycologia 49(2):240-49. March/April. [13 ref] Summary: Actinomucor, one of several monotypic genera of the family Mucoraceae, was originally described by Schostakowitsch in 1898 from Taubenmist from Siberia. Schostakowitsch stated that the genus was closely related to Mucor, but differed in having branched stolons which gave rise to rhizoids and sporangiophores. He also stated that the genus was distinct from Rhizopus and Absidia, two other stoloniferous genera, because of the limited growth of its stolons and the different formation of its columellae and sporangiophores. Fermented tofu is not mentioned, but the species used to make it, Actinomucor elegans, is described and its taxonomic history is given. It has had twelve different scientic names between 1871 and 1946, including Mucor corymbosus (1871), Rhizopus elegans (1884), Mucor harzii (1888), Actinomucor repens (1898), Glomerula repens (1903), Mucor glomerula (1908),... and Actinomucor corymbosus (1939, 1946). Note 1. Letter from Dr. Clifford W. Hesseltine. 1990. Our own observations are in accord with the ndings of Schostakowitsch... Actinomucor is the mold used in making Chinese Cheese, and its nature is not well known, even to mycologists. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (April 2003) that mentions Actinomucor elegans. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 205. Benet, Sula. 1957. Festival menus round the world. New York, NY: Abelard-Schuman. 196 p. See p. 37, 39. Index. 23 cm. [1 ref] Summary: Page 37: A recipe calls for 2 cakes Foo Yu (Chinese cheese). Page 39: A recipe for Tiem shuen yu (Sweet and sour sh) calls for 1 tablespoon thick soy sauce. Note: Shi yau is soy sauce. 206. Marks, Robert W. 1957. The horizontal hour. New York, NY: David McCay Company, Inc. 346 p. 22 cm. Summary: A novel / ction. Dr. Bucholz is a New York psychoanalyst, born in Vienna. Page 193: ; a dish of barbecued spare-ribs with black bean and garlic sauce. And then, as a side dish, some foo yeefermented bean curd. It tastes like Stilton cheese. Without looking at Leslie, Bucholz said, Were having just a plain omelet. You mean you dont want any of the specialties here?
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207. Smith, Allan K. 1958. Use of United States soybeans in Japan. USDA Agricultural Research Service. ARS-71-12. iii + 36 p. April. April. Illust. 28 cm. Typewritten. Summary: An extremely well researched, interesting document based on a survey conducted in 1957 in Japan. Contents: Denitions of Japanese food products. Introduction. 1. Problems of Japanese food processors in using U.S. soybeans: Food production problems, foreign material, broken and dark-colored soybeans in exports. 2. Analysis of the problems. 3. Research proposals. 4. Miso: Processing, uses, production, composition. 5. Tofu and its modications: Processing fresh tofu and frozen tofu, aburage. 6. Natto. 7. Hamanatto. 8. Kinako. 9. New products research: Soybean milk, fermented cheese, soybean our and isolated protein for foods, isolated soybean protein. Acknowledgments. A graph on the front cover (and on p. 6) shows soybean production in the USA from 1938 to 1957 (in millions of acres harvested). Photos show: (1) Drying soybeans before threshing in Japan. (2) Manually operated threshing machine. (3) Power operated threshing machine. (4) Modern smallscale equipment for cleaning soybeans and grading for size. (5) Straw weaving equipment. Straw bags are used for soybeans, rice, and other farm products. (6) Cooling roasted soybeans and hand cleaning for making kinako. (7) Soybean varieties: Lincoln, White Hilum Iwate, and Acadian (six photos, showing each variety wet and dry). (8) Wooden vats used for fermenting miso; each stands a little taller than a man, and is bound with 4 bamboo hoops. (9) Miso in wooden tubs [kegs] ready for market. (10) Hand assembly of wooden tubs for shipping miso and shoyu. (11) Stone mill for wet grinding of soybeans to make tofu. (12) A modern tofu shop, with boiler, pressure cooker, lter, and precipitation vat. Photos 11 and 12 courtesy of Sugiyama Chemical Research Inst., Tokyo. (13) Deep fat frying of tofu for making aburage. (14) Wooden kegs used for fermenting hamanatto. Stone weights are used to compact the beans during fermentation. Other gures: (1) Flow diagram of the miso manufacturing process (incl. koji). (2) Table showing total production of miso in Japan (about 1957) as reported by All Japan Miso Industrial Association. Factory made miso consists of: Rice miso 379,000 tonnes (metric tons), barley miso 146,000 tonnes, soybean miso 58,000 tonnes, total factory made 583,000 tonnes. Homemade miso of all types is 391,000 tonnes (67% of factory made). Total factory and home made: 974,000 tonnes. Ingredients used in this grand total: Soybeans 361,000 tonnes, rice 115,000 tonnes, barley 58,000 tonnes, salt 159,000 tonnes. (3) Table showing nutritional composition of rice miso, barley miso, and soybean miso. (4) Table showing composition of sweet miso, salty miso, and enriched miso. (5) Diagrammatic sketch of equipment used in making fresh tofu. (6) Flow diagram of a frozen tofu factory.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note: The author was in Japan from Oct. 24 to Dec. 24, 1957. The principal localities visited were: Tokyo, Yokohama, Tochigi City, Nagano, Matsumoto, Suwa, Hamamatsu, Nagoya, Kyoto, Osaka, Fukuoka, Kumamoto, Nagasaki, and Sendai. His trip was sponsored by the Agricultural Research Service and the Foreign Agricultural Service of the USDA, and the American Soybean Association (Hudson, Iowa). Note: This is the earliest document seen (July 2000) that mentions barley misoa type of miso made with barley koji, soybeans, and salt. Address: Head of Meal Products Investigations, Oilseed Crops Lab., NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 208. Shigeno, Y.; Sotome, S. 1958. Nyfu no seikagakuteki kenky. I. Nyfu seiz ni kansuru Mukoru rui kinkabu to nyfu no seibun ni tsuite [The biochemical study of fermented tofu (chian toufu). I. The biochemical study of mucor chian, and the chemical contents of chian tofu]. Utsunomiya Daigaku Nogakubu Gakujutsu Hokoku (Bulletin of the College of Agriculture, Utsunomiya University) 4(1):125-28. [4 ref. Jap; eng] Address: Utsunomiya Univ., Japan. 209. Caleva, Harry. 1958. Chinese cookbook for quantity service: Authentic professional recipes. New York, NY: Ahrens Publishing Co., Inc. 169 p. See p. 150-53. Index. 24 cm. Summary: This is basically a Cantonese cookbook; the Chinese words are written in Cantonese. The chapter titled Sauces (p. 150-53) includes recipes for the following: Soy sauce (light) (Yuen You). With 1 lbs. soy beans (crushed). Soy bean jam (Mien-Shee Ding). With 1 lbs. soy beans. Rice jam (Dow-Ding). With 1 lbs. roasted soy beans (mashed). Subgum sauce (Sweet and sour) (Sub Gum Tien-Soon Wu). With 1 tsp. soy sauce (heavy). Oyster sauce (Hoo You). With cup soy sauce (light). Chinese brown gravy. With 1 tsp. soy sauce (heavy). Onion sauce, Cantonese style. With 3/4 cup soy sauce (light). Black soy sauce (Chow You). With soy bean 1 lbs. Salt 2 tbs. [tablespoons]. Water 3 quarts. Molasses 1 pint. Rice wine cup. 1. Combine soy beans, salt, and water; bring to a boil and simmer for ve hours; remove and strain. Pour into a jar and seal airtight, then age in the sun for six months. 2. At the end of six months, add remaining ingredients, reseal and let age in the sun another six months. Note: This sauce is used for seasoning food. Not used in cooking. Note: None of the many recipes that call for months of aging in the sun will work; they do not contain koji (Qu). Glossary of Chinese terms [Cantonese] (p. 161-64): Dow FooBean curd. Dow NgaahBean sprouts. Dow SeeBlack bean sauce. Foo JookSoy bean cream [dried yuba sticks]. Foo YuChinese cheese [fermented tofu]. Gee YeouBlack
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sauce. Gna choyBean sprouts. JeungSauces. Jeung Yow (you)Soy sauce. JookCongee. Mien SeeBrown bean sauce. Naam YuRed bean curd cheese in red sauce. Nom YuRed cheese. Saang Se JeungRed bean sauce (thick). See Yeou (you)Soy sauce [soy nugget sauce]. Tiem JookDried bean curd [dried yuba]. Woo DowDried black beans. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Foo Jook to refer to dried yuba sticks. 210. Richards, Janet; Richards, Charles. 1958. Basic Chinese and Japanese recipes. 3rd ed. rev. and expanded. San Francisco, California: City Lights Books. 75 p. Index of recipes. 17 cm. Summary: Contents: Introduction (General. For epicures, vegetarians, and dieters). Chinese recipes. Japanese recipes. General information: Buffet, party foods & hors doeuvres. To brew tea. Special imported ingredients. Where to get ingredients & equipment. Introduction: Most of the recipes in this book appear constantly on the menus of the Chinese and Japanese restaurants of San Francisco, New York, and a few other cities that have a population segment with Chinese or Japanese ancestry. Many recipes call for soy sauce and up to 1 teaspoon MSG powder. The section For epicures, vegetarians, and dieters states: Of the special foods of the Orient, the most versatile is the soy bean. The number of widely differing foods made from soy beans is very large, including bean thread, noodles, soy sauce, soy milk with its derivatives such as dofu, the fermented nam yu and fu yu of China and miso of Japan. Western food technology has also added to the list. Soy-related recipesChinese: Lo han chai (with dofu and seaweed, p. 19-21). Dofu with oyster sauce (1 block of Japanese tofu, or 2 cakes of Chinese tofu, p. 22). Steamed sh with dofu (p. 29-30). Chicken in soy (with 1 cup soy sauce, p. 31-32). Chinese sauce [commercial]: Foo y (sharp thick sauce [fermented tofu]). Jeung yow (soy sauce). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms nam yu or fermented nam yu or Foo y to refer to fermented tofu. Japanese recipes: Miso soup (with tofu. Miso is fermented soy beans, p. 48). Konbu salad (with soy sauce, p. 49). Egg plant with miso (p. 50). Turnips in soy (soy sauce, p. 50). Misoyaki (p. 54-55). Joints of chicken teriyaki (with Teriyaki sauce, p. 56). Beef sukiyaki (with tofu, p. 5960). Beef teriyaki (cook on a hibachi, p. 60). Teriyaki sauce (p. 61; Ingredients: cup table syrup {light cane molasses}, 1 quart shoyu {high quality Japanese soy sauce}, 3/4 lb. sugar, 2 pieces dashi konbu {dried kelp} 6 inches long, teaspoon MSG powder, 2 tablespoons sake). Quick teriyaki sauce (p. 61; Ingredients: 3/4 cup soy sauce, 3 tablespoons sake {or sherry}, cup sugar, 1 teaspoon grated ginger, tsp. MSG powder). Buta dofu (with soy bean curd, p. 63).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Special imported ingredients (p. 68-71): Japanese Canned foods: Bean curd, prepared black soy beans. Packaged foods: Miso (the light variety, fermented soy bean paste). Bottled foods: Fuy (Chinese bean cake; Order top quality such as Quong Hop brand). Shoyu (soy sauce; Order top quality such as Kikkoman, Higeta, or Marukin). ChineseBottled foods: Soy sauce. Black beans (Dow Shee; for black bean sauce). 211. Wong, Ella-Mei. 1958. Chinese cookery. New York, NY: Arco Publ. Co. 100 p. Illust. 23 cm. * Summary: Foo Jook [dried yuba sticks] and red bean curd are mentioned. 212. Kalnay, Francis. 1959. Soybean has all the answers (or nearly all). House Beautiful 101:174-75, 207-12. May. Summary: The opening 2-page spread contains photos of many commercial soyfood products available in America at the time: Dr. Fearns Soy-O pancake our (one with whole wheat and soya, and the other with just wheat and soya), Pure soya bean powder, and Soya bean granules, Wuests soya-protein bread, Wuests cookies, Wel-Pac kinako [roasted soy our], Yamasa shoyu, Kikkoman shoyu, Oliver Tonkatsu Sauce (Tonkatsu are breaded pork cutlets), Hain soy oil (cold pressed), Amoy soy sauce, Prosperity soy sauce, Golden Sang Chan soy sauce, Madison Zoy-Koff, Hime aka-miso (Pacic Trading Co.), Hime yakidofu, Hime frozen bean curds, Delicious Edamame (Packed by Tokai Kanzume Co. Ltd., Nagoya, Japan), Quong Hop & Co. bean cake [tofu], Schiff soy lecithin, Oriental food shop black soybeans, Climax wheat and soy pure egg noodles (The Pfaffman Co., Cleveland, Ohio), and Prince Veta-Roni (Mezzani or Spaghetti; Prince Macaroni Co.). The subtitle reads: Its a choice gourmet food. Its as nutritious as vitamin pills. It comes in a dozen forms and makes a hundred dishes. The author uses soy-related words in a very modern way: Have you ever noticed the way people who know food pronounce the simple word soy? Their facial expression changes instantly, and their tone of voice turns positively lyric. There are two serious reasons for their extraordinary respect for a bean so little and so innocent. The soybean is enormously rich in protein. This wealth of protein is apparent in both quality and quantity... And because soy oil is high in unsaturated fatty acids, it ts well into todays popular lowcholesterol diets. In our country soy is relatively new... Soy is the most versatile legume imaginable... The glittering star in soys troupe of players is soy sauce (also called soya and shoyu)... The soy food industry is still in its infancy in the U.S. Yet the variety of soy products available is impressive. Note 1. This is the earliest publication seen (April 2001) that mentions Quong Hop & Co. in connection with tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document
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seen (Aug. 2003) that contains the term soya-protein (or soya-proteins). 213. Richard, C. 1959. Le chao: Fromage de soja ferment, sal et alcoolis [Chao: A fermented soy cheese, containing salt and alcohol]. Societe des Etudes Indochinoises, Bulletin (Saigon) 34(3):317-24. Oct. [14 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Introduction and types of soyfoods in Vietnam. Preparation of Chao. Chemical composition. Culinary uses of Chao: In vegetarian diets, in regular diets. Summary. Chao, a cheese analog, is widely consumed in Vietnam. It is prepared as follows: Coagulate soymilk with vinegar or nigari. Press the tofu well, cut it into cubes or parallepipeds from 2 to 4 cm on a side, and let it dry on mats for 20-24 hours. Salt it and leave it for 24-48 hours. Then wash the tofu cubes to remove the excess salt. Put the cubes in pots of glazed stoneware with rice wine; leave for 20 days. Photos show: (1) Tofu in its earthenware pot. (2) Overhead view of the cubes of chao surrounded by the brining liquor. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word Chao to refer to fermented tofu. A table gives the chemical composition of ve samples of Chao sold in South Vietnam. They contain on average: moisture 76%, salt 11%, alcohol 5%, protein 7%, oil 3.5%. Culinary uses: In Vietnam, Chaoa true food condimentserves to season various dishes and to aromatize or perfume (aromatiser) certain sauces. Because of its slightly tart and salty taste, it is much prized by vegetarians, for this soya cheese (fromage de soja) contains only vegetable proteins (protines vgtales). In vegetarian diets, it is incorporated into rice dishes and rice-based soups, and often accompanies various vegetablessuch as cucumbers. Because of its low price, it is often used in place of tuong sauceswhich are also made by enzymatic fermentation of soybeans. Among the upper classes in Vietnamese society, Chao is mixed with pimento, vinegar, sugar, and oil to make a tasty condiment called Chao ti t, which is used to enhance the taste of dishes that contain no meat or sh. On the 1st and 15th days of each month, when Buddhists eat no meat, garlic, or onions, they enjoy this tasty condiment. In regular diets, one usually adds sugar, salt, oil, and pimento. The condiment thus obtained is used to add aroma to roasted or broiled meats, rice noodles, and various legumes. Sometimes it is used as a basting sauce for small pieces of chicken or pork. Address: Docteur en Pharmacie, Chef de Laboratoire, Institut Pasteur de Saigon. 214. Lee, Calvin. 1959. Chinese cooking for American kitchens. New York, NY: G.P. Putnams Sons. 190 p. Illust. by Mabel Wong Lilienstein. Index. 22 cm. Summary: An excellent book, says Craig Claiborne. The many styles and forms of Chinese cooking can be grouped into ve schools: Canton, Fukien, Honan, Shantung [incl.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Peking], and Szechuan. Cantonese cooking is the most popular, even in China itself. This is a Cantonese cookbook. Fukien probably produces the best soy sauce in China (p. 20). Canton is known for its steamed bass with black bean sauce (Jing yu) (p. 22). Soy related recipes: Steak la Lee (with 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, p. 33). Pork chops la Lee (with 2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce, p. 35). Perhaps the most interesting of the condiments used in authentic Chinese cooking is the lowly soy bean. It is a rich source of oil. The pulp of the bean is ground to make a curd extremely high in protein content. These bean curds (dow foo) look somewhat like little rectangles of white custard and can be boiled, stir-fried, or baked. Some of the fresh bean curd is permitted to ferment, making a richly aromatic and tangy cheese. Commonly called Chinese cheese, foo yu is sold in bottles and does not require any cooking. Dow see are small fermented [soy] beans which are used commonly for seafoods such as strong-smelling sh, shrimps or lobsters. They have a delightful spicy avor and should be rinsed in water and crushed before using (p. 46-47). Vegetables: Black beans (dow see). Sold by the ounce. Wash and soak for 10 minutes before using. Recipes: Lobster Cantonese (Chow lung har). Beef with green peppers and tomatoes (Fon care lot tzu ngow). Pork with tomatoes (Fon care gee) (p. 50). Seasonings and sauces: Bean curds (dow foo). Sold fresh or canned in Chinese or Japanese groceries. Recipes: Beef with bean curds (Dow food ngow). Steamed sh with bean curds (Dow foo jung yu). Bean curd soup (Dow foo tong) (p. 52). Fried sh with bean curds (Dow foo jeen yu, p. 106). Steamed sh with bean curds (Dow foo jing yu, p. 107). Soy sauce cooked chicken (See yow gai, p. 116). Beef with bean curds (Dow foo ngow, p. 135). Roast pork with bean curds (Dow foo char shu, p. 145). Address: [New York City]. 215. Taira, Hirokadzu; Ebisawa, H.; Sugimura, K.; Sakurai, Y. 1959. Daizu kak-hin no amino-san in kansuru kenky. I. Shoshu shihan daizu seihin no zen amino-san ganry [Studies on amino acid content of processed soybeans. I. Total amino acids of soybean products]. Eiyo to Shokuryo (J. of Japanese Society of Food and Nutrition) 11(6):351-54. [12 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: The total amino acid content of 16 kinds of soybean products were determined by microbiological assay method. These included tofu, fried tofu pouches (abura-age), okara, dried-frozen tofu, yuba, kinako (roasted full-fat soy our), natto, and nyu-fu (fermented tofu). Address: National Food Research Inst., Tokyo. 216. Manners, Marian. 1960. Theres more than chop suey to Chinese cooking: Food. Los Angeles Times. Oct. 16. p. 44. Summary: Chinese cooking need not be limited to chop
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suey or chow mein... If you have been discouraged from trying authentic Chinese recipes because they are long and complicated, made with obscure ingredients such as fermented bean curd sauce, bitter melon or bok choy heart, try the following... Five Chinese-style recipes are given; three call for soy sauce as an ingredient. 217. Chiang, Tien-chiang. 1960. Ta tou ying yang yu chia kung [Soybeans and soyfoods?]. China. 183 p. [10+ ref. Chi] Address: China. 218. Leach, Bernard. 1960. A potter in Japan, 1952-1954. London: Faber and Faber Ltd. 246 p. Portrait. Illust. Index. 22 cm. Summary: The author is as ne a writer as he is a potter and artist. June 15, 1953 (p. 98). Near the great extinct volcano of Daisen on the borders of Tottori Province, the author and friends climbed up the old rough stone-paved pilgrims way to the Kongoin temple. There we were served the best meal I have eaten in Japan, vegetarian priests food, over which innite pains had been taken... mountain potatoes, crisp fried bean curd and some soft curd mixed into a paste with crushed sesame seed. July 1, 1953 (p. 105): A great feed of Continental sausages and Chinese riceballs stuffed with mincemeat and Funiu. The last is a strange and fascinating decoction of fermented bean curd something like a smoky Camembert in taste and texture. August 19, 1953 (p. 132). In Nagano, Japan, the author and friends visited the very large and famous temple of Zenkoji. They noted all the commercialized signs of Buddhist decadence, as far from Sakya Muni [Shakyamuni, the Buddha] as Rome from Christ... the vulgarized business of popular religion is equally sickening, East or West. After that they made their way to a soba shop and the author ordered Soba Gaki which was not on the menu. This was a kind of porridge no longer in fashion... We ate it rst with shoyu sauce and then with sweet adzuki beans. Oct. 22, 1953 (p. 166). In Toyama the author and his friends had lunch at a Buddhist vegetarian restaurant [probably serving shojin ryri] which made me wish once again that I could share the meal and its setting with artist and craftsman friends in the West. The manner of serving surpassed all, it was the service of the heart. There is a saying that the Chinese eat with their stomachs and the Japanese with their eyes. The sheer beauty of each tray or dish of food, the quiet discretion. This represents a peak of culture and its home is in Japan. Address: Japan. 219. Smith, Allan K. 1961. Oriental methods of using soybeans as food. With special attention to fermented products and notes on Oriental farming practices. USDA Agricultural Research Service. ARS-71-17. 65 p. July. Illust.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 27 cm. Summary: Contents: Part I: China. Introduction. Farming conditions in China. Oilseed production. Soy sauce in China. Sweet our pasteTien mien chang [chiang]. Soybean or vegetable milk (incl. Willis Miller and the Henningsen Produce Co. in Shanghai). Yuba. Soybean curd or tofu. Soybean cheese [fermented tofu]: Chee-fan (cheese + small cube), tse-fan (drunken cheese), hon-fan (red cheese). Fen-Tiao from mung beans. Fermented soybeans [soy nuggets]. Vinegar fermentation process. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term tse-fan (drunken cheese) to refer to a type fermented tofu. Part II. ChinaChinese Institutions. Henry Lester Institute (in Shanghai; Dr. Bernard Read). Academia Sinica (headquarters in Nanking). China Vegetable Oil Corporation (CVOC, Shanghai). The China Oils and Fat Industries Ltd. (Shanghai). National Bureau of Industrial Research. Catholic University (Fu Jen, at Peiping). Yen Ching University (Peiping). Agriculture Experiment Station (Peiping). Part III: Japan. Introduction. Production of miso in Japan. Soy sauce in Japan. Trends in soy sauce production. Part IV: With Raymond E. Culbertson. Korea. Introduction. Breeding work. Soybean varieties. Climatic relations. Soils of Korea. Topography. Land use. Cultural practices. Marketing. Soybeans as foodstuff. Soy sauce. Acknowledgment. Page 19 states: The China National Government has taken an active interest in soybean milk for use by its army. Mr. Willis Miller, with ofces and business connections with the Henningsen Produce Company in the Dollar Building (7th Floor) at 51 Canton Road, Shanghai, had just completed, at the time of my visit, the building of a soybean milk plant for the Chinese Government. The process is patterned after that of the International Nutritional Laboratories at Mt. Vernon, Ohio, for making a powdered or spray-dried milk. Mr. Miller also was supervising the installation of a vegetable canning plant for the same purpose. The text of this bulletin was previously published, serially, with slight revisions, in Soybean Digest, from Feb. to June 1949. Address: Northern Utilization Research and Development Div., Peoria, Illinois. 220. Lee, Dorothy. 1961. House & Gardens Chinese cook book part 1. House and Garden 120(3):149, 151-56. Sept. See p. 152. Summary: The introductory paragraph states: ... Following are the basic principles of Chinese cooking as well as recipes for soups, meats, sh, and vegetables. Part 2 of the H&Gs Chinese Cook Book will appear in the October issue. The section titled Glossary of recipe terms, ingredients includes: Bean curd: Squares of tender white soy bean cheese made by precipitating the protein from soy bean
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milk. Fen szu: Also called bean threads or cellophane noodles. Fen szu is made of pea starch [not soy]... When soaked in hot water, it resembles vermicelli but is translucent. When deep-fat fried in dried form, it puffs up light and crisp. Fu Ju (or Foo Yee): Fermented bean curd, preserved in wine-avored brine. On page 149 is a color photograph of a picture frame framing several Chinese food items with a Buddha gure in the middle background of the frame. The title of the article is across the top of the frame. The text starts on page 151 along with the authors name. 221. Tung, Ta-Cheng; Huang, P-C.; Li, H-C.; Chen, H-L. 1961. [Composition of foods used in Taiwan]. J. of the Formosan Medical Association 60(11):973-1005. Nov. 28. [27 ref. Chi; eng] Summary: Gives the nutritional composition (food calories, moisture, protein, fat, carbohydrate, ber, ash, calcium, phosphorus, iron, vitamin A, thiamine, riboavin, niacin, and ascorbic acid) of 384 foods commonly used in Taiwan. In the section on Legumes, seeds, and nuts, the following soy products are included: Black bean (hei tou, black soybean; 37.1% protein, 15.2% fat), miso, soy bean (huang tou), soy bean curd (toufu), soy bean curd cake (toufu kan), soy bean curd cake, spiced (wu-hsiang toufu kan), soy bean curd cake, strip, soy bean curd, clot (toupi, yuba), soy bean curd, fermented, soy bean curd, fried (yu toufu), soy bean curd, pickled (furu, hu-zu), soy bean, fermented (tou chi), soy bean milk (tou nai), soy bean extracted residue (okara). Address: 1-3. Dep. of Biochemistry, College of Medicine, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan, China; 4. Taiwan Provincial Hygienic Lab. 222. Mendoza, Jose M. 1961. Philippine foods, their processing and manufacture. Manila: Published by the author. 421 p. See p. 152-59. Chap. XV, Sauces and Similar Products. [7 soy ref] Summary: Contents of Chapter 15 titled Sauces and similar products (p. 152-58): Soybean sauce (toyo). Japanese soya sauce: Preparation of the starter, preparation of the material, inoculation, fermentation. Modied Chinese soya sauce. Coco sauce or coprameal sauce (The taste compares favorably with Chinese soy sauce and Japanese soy sauce). Hints and suggestions. Philippine bean sauces. The tao-si [taosi, soy nuggets], tokua [tofu, not fermented], tahore [taori, taore; probably fermented tofu], the tajo (unpressed tofu curds, usually served with medium brown sugar), mongo [mung bean] sprouts, soybean sprouts, Vetsin (contains 1 part monosodium glutamate, 7 parts lactose, and 3 parts salt). Includes a formula for Worcestershire sauce (which contains no soy sauce). Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (May 2003)
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU that contains any Filipino word for unpressed tofu curds, usually served with medium brown sugar, tajo. Note 2. The section titled Tahore (p. 157) states: This product is simply taori whereby the already prepared taore is macerated to mass. Tokua [tofu] is used frequently with tahore. They are both popular food [sic, foods] among Chinese. The Chinese eat them with soft-boiled rice called barabasa. Address: Lecturer in Food Technology and Fermentation Technology, Manuel L. Quezon Univ., Manila. 223. Mendoza, Jose M. 1961. Philippine foods, their processing and manufacture. Manila, Philippines: Philippine Educational Co. 524 p. See p. 186-93. Chap. XV, Sauces and Similar Products. [7 soy ref] Summary: The contents of this edition is basically identical to that of the other 1961 edition published by the author. However the typesetting and the page numbers are different. Address: Lecturer in Food Technology and Fermentation Technology, Manuel L. Quezon Univ., Manila. 224. Tokashiki, Tsukan Peichin. 1961. Gyozen honz [Food herbal]. Okinawa. [Jap]* Summary: E.H. Walker (1976) states that this edition mentions Glycine max (Vol. 5, p. 5): Originally published in about 1860. Treats animal as well as plant foods, with Japanese names only... A new edition was published in 1961 in Okinawa. The author lived 1793-1845. 225. Wong, Ella-Mei. 1961. Chinese cookery. London: Angus and Robertson; New York, NY: Arco Publ. Co. [xi] + 100 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. * Summary: Foo Jook [dried yuba sticks] and red bean curd are mentioned. 226. Foreign Agriculture.1962. Soybean markets in Southeast Asia. 26(2):17. Feb. Summary: Four areas in Southeastern AsiaHong Kong, Malaya, Singapore, and possibly Sarawakare growing commercial markets for U.S. soybeans and soybean oil. Communist China has long been the main source of soybeans for Southeast Asia. The use of U.S. soybeans in the four areas is limited largely to those foods for which splits and broken beans are suitablenamely, soybean curd, soybean sauce, and soybean cheese. 227. Kan, Johnny; Leong, Charles L. 1963. Eight immortal avors. Berkeley, California: Howell-North Books. 246 p. Illust. (by Jake Lee). Index. 24 cm. 2nd edition 1980. Summary: An interesting book, by a master cook and an excellent researcher and writer. Full of new and useful information. From the publishers description: This is the rst cookbookwritten by a Chinese-American to emanate from San Franciscos Chinatownthe mecca for both Oriental
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and Occidental gourmets. It is the only cookbook dealing strictly with Cantonese cookery. The Foreword, written by the famous food writer James Beard (of New York City) in Oct. 1963. notes that he grew up in Portland, Oregon, and was a close childhood friend of the Kan family and of their cousin Johnny Kan, who came to visit from San Franciscos Chinatown [in California]a city within a city. Kans mother was an excellent and ingenious cook. Beard considers Kans Restaurant the outstanding Chinese restaurant today. The Eight Immortal Flavors of Chinese cookery are Homsalty. Tombland (like rice). Teemsweet. Seensour. Foobitter. Lothot (as in chili peppers). Heongfragrant (smell more than taste). Gumgolden (as in citrus peel or kumquat). They are always referred to in this order. Note: In Western cookery there are only four traditional avorssweet, sour, salty, and bitter. The Japanese add a 5th, umami. The chefs and cuisine of Kwangchow (the ancient name for Canton, now spelled Guangzhou) are considered the nest in all of China (p. 28). The chapter titled Native condiments, sauces, and ingredients includes: Bean curd (Tow Fu): One of the most useful of Chinese ingredients, it is usually pressed into -inch by 3-inch squares. Bland in avor, it is a great mixer for highly avored foods. It is even delicious in its fresh state with spicy condiments and is known as the meat without bones. Soybean skin (Foo Jook): Dried skin of soybean milk. Sold in packages, it is at and thin, with a creamy-glaze appearance. Soak it before using in soups, or in smothercooking recipes. It has an enjoyable chewy texture and slightly nut-like avor. Soybean skin, sweet (Teem Jook): Similar but thicker than Foo Jook, its taste is slightly sweeter. Condiments (p. 51-54)Black beans, salted (Dow see): Cured, fermented small black beans... Should be soaked briey and washed before use. A common use is to mash beans with garlic, creating a seasoning popular for both seafood and meats. Monosodium glutamate (Mei Jing): This avor accent powder had its origin centuries ago in old China. A charming story, which we like to believe, involved a contest in which several monks with gourmet tastes competed with each other to produce the most delicious batch of Loh Han Jai, the standard monks food consisting of a variety of various vegetarian ingredients... The winner had added one precious secret ingredient the others did not havea powdered dried seaweed [konbu, Laminaria japonica] which was later discovered to be the rst crude source of monosodium glutamate. It was not until 1908 that Dr. Kikunae Ikeda, the great Japanese scientist successfully extracted Glutamic Acid from edible seaweed and from it crystallized monosodium glutamate and marketed it under the name of Aji-no-Moto. Then in 1921 Chinese
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU scientist Poo-Nien Wu of Shanghai developed a process for extracting monosodium glutamate from wheat protein and was marketing his discovery, Ve-Tsin, in China, Singapore, Malaya, and the Philippines to the amount of 350,000 pounds a year. Other raw material sources are corn, soybean protein, and desugared beet molasses. Sauces (p. 54-55)Bean sauce (Min See Jeong): A brown salty bean paste. Oyster sauce (Ho Yow). Plum sauce (Seen Mouie Jeong). Red seasoning sauce (Hoy Sin Jeong): A thick red sauce that contains soybeans as an ingredient. A table condiment for Peking duck. Spiced red bean curd (Nom Yee): A variation of bean cake fermented. It has a slightly harder consistency, a brickred color, and a pungent, aromatic avor. Soy sauce (See Yow): For Chinese cooking, soy sauce is the great all-purpose and most indispensable of all sauce. There are many grades and types. For the red cooking method, ingredients are incarnadined by the dark sauce. It may be used as a table dip, by itself, or mixed with mustard. Unlike salt, it has the taste of a beef essence. It is made by the fermentation of cooked soybeans, roasted wheat, a yeast mold and salt. The best grades of Chinese soy sauce are still made by the old-fashioned, aged, natural fermentation process, rather than by the quickly made chemical hydrolysis method [HVP soy sauce]. The type know as Sang Chau, light and color and density, is the premier kind for avoring and dipping. But unless you ask for it by name, you will get the darker soy sauce or See Yow. There is no denitive record of the origin of soy sauce. Reference to the sauce has been made as early as the Chou Dynasty [1045-256 BC], some 200 years before Christ!... Undoubtedly since its very origin soy sauce has been made in the home or as a village industry. As a manufactured product it started in 1688. With its long condimentary life, no wonder that, to the Chinese, soy sauce is the Sauce of Life. Vegetables (p. 81-87): Bean sprouts (Ngah Choy): This common and inexpensive little vegetable is overused in some Chinese restaurants as a ller. The name literally means vegetable for the teeth, implying a crunchy sensation. Bean sprouts are tiny shoots which grow from the soy bean. They are one of the trio of basic Chinese foodstuffsbean sprouts, bean curd and soy saucederived from the wonder bean. The sprouts average two inches long, are opaque white and the bean head is yellow... Another variety of bean sprouts, germinated from a larger type of bean, is the Dow Ngah, or Big Bean Sprout. This variety grows a little longer, with a larger golden head, and the sprout is crunchier, but has a more raw beany avor. This variety is not used in Chinese restaurants. Soy-related recipes: Spinach with foo yee sauce (Baw choy foo yee, with 2 preserved bean cakes (Foo Yee) mashed with 2 teaspoons juice from jar, p. 89). Shows how any commonplace vegetable can be turned into an epicurean dish by simply adding preserved bean cake [fermented
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tofu] and a touch of garlic. Try it and you will discover why Foo Yee is often referred to as the miracle ingredient among Chinese condiments. Bean cake sauteed with meat (Dow foo yuke, with 8 bean cakes (Dow foo). Slice each bean cake into 6 pieces, p. 99). Fresh asparagus chicken with black bean sauce (Lei soon gai kow, with 1 full tablespoon mashed fermented black beans (Dow see), combined with 1 clove mashed garlic and 1 tablespoon soy sauce, with a dash of monosodium glutamate, p. 100). Chinese cabbage with foo yee sauce (Siew choy foo yee, with 2 fermented bean cakes (Foo Yee) with 2 teaspoons juice from the jar, p. 107). Mustard greens with foo yee sauce (Gai choy chow foo yee, with 2 fermented bean cakes (Foo Yee) mashed with 2 teaspoons juice from the jar, and 1 teaspoon soy sauce, p. 109). Steamed salmon with black bean sauce (Dow see jing sah-mon yee, with 2 tablespoons fermented Black Beans (Dow See), crushed to paste, p. 131). Prawns with black bean sauce (See jup hah kow, with 2 tablespoons Black Bean Paste (Dow see), p. 133). Steamed sh with black bean sauce (Dow see seen gee jing yee, with 2 tablespoons fermented Black Beans (Dow see), crushed to a paste, p. 141). Dried oysters with bean curd skim (Ho see munn foo jook, with 6 sheets Bean Curd Skim (Foo jook) pre-soaked in cold water for 2 hours. Drain thoroughly. Cut in 2 to 3-inch pieces. p. 143). Note: This is the earliest document seen (Dec. 2010) that uses the term Bean Curd Skim to refer to dried yuba sticks. Continued. Address: 1. Chef, Chinatown; 2. Historian of Chinese life in America. 228. Kan, Johnny; Leong, Charles L. 1963. Eight immortal avors (ContinuedPart II). Berkeley, California: HowellNorth Books. 246 p. Illust. (by Jake Lee). Index. 24 cm. 2nd edition 1980. Summary: Continued from page 146. Fish stuffed in bean cake (Jow yeong dow foo, with 8 square Bean Cakes (Dow Foo), p. 146). Chicken wings with black bean sauce (See jup gai yik, with cup fermented black beans (Dow See). Rinse, drain and crush, p. 158). Soy sauce chicken (See yow gai, with 10 cups soy sauce, p. 170). Red bean curd chicken (Nom yee gai, with 2 tablespoons spiced red bean curd (Nom Yee),... 3 tablespoons soy sauce, p. 171). Soy squab red fried (Hoong siew bok opp, with 2 quarts soy sauce, p. 174). Taro root duck with nom yee sauce (Nom yee woo tow opp, with 1 square red bean cake (Nom Yee), mashed, p. 184). Spareribs with black bean sauce (See jup pai gwut, with 2 teaspoons fermented Black Beans (Dow See), crushed into paste, p. 192). Spareribs with red bean cake sauce (Nom yee pai gwut, with 2 tablespoons Red Bean Cake (Nom Yee), p. 193).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Winter chang dish (Dah bin lo, with Pure soy sauce (Sin Cho) devoid of caramel coloring {soy sauce, (See Yow), contains caramel coloring} and with 2 squares of bean cake [tofu] cut in cubes, p. 212-13). Note: In 1953 Johnny Kan opened his de luxe Kans Restaurant at 708 Grant Ave. in San Francisco, California. Address: 1. Chef, Chinatown; 2. Historian of Chinese life in America. 229. Keys, John D. 1963. Food for the emperor: recipes of Imperial China with a dictionary of Chinese cuisine. Los Angeles, California: Ward Ritchie Press. xxii + 121 p. Introduction by Kee Joon. Illust. Index. 18 x 18 cm. Summary: See the edition published this same year by Gramercy Publishing Co., New York, NY. Address: San Francisco. 230. Keys, John D. 1963. Food for the emperor: recipes of Imperial China with a dictionary of Chinese cuisine. New York, NY: Gramercy Publishing Co. xxii + 121 p. Introduction by Kee Joon. Illust. Index. 18 x 17 cm. Summary: This book is about the Mandarin or Peking school of Chinese cooking. Contents: Introduction, by Kee Joon. Food for the emperor (recipes; for each recipe is given the name written vertically in large Chinese characters, the Cantonese transliteration of that name, and the English translation of that name. On some left-hand pages are short translations from old books related to food). A dictionary of Chinese cuisine (arranged alphabetically by English name of food). Index to the recipes (by recipe type, and within that by English recipe name). Almost all recipes in this book are based on meat, sh, or poultry. There are no soy-related recipes in this part of the book, although many recipes call for soya sauce. The Dictionary includes: Bean curd (dou foo, with 2 recipes). Bean curd cheese [fermented tofu] (the two varieties are white bean curd cheese {foo yoo} and red bean curd cheese {narm yoo}). Bean curd, dried (tim jook [sweet dried yuba sticks; also spelled tiem jook]). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2010) that uses the term tim jook to refer to dried yuba. Actually it refers to sweet dried yuba sticks. Bean lling, sweet (doe sha, made from black soya beans, sugar, and a little oil. This paste is available in Chinese bakeries, and is used in New Years cakes and other sweet pastries). Note: This is the earliest document seen (March 2011) that uses the term Bean lling, sweet to refer to a sweet paste, made of black soybeans, that is used as a lling like for cakes, like sweet red bean paste [azuki bean paste]. Bean saucesee Soya bean condiment. Black bean saucesee Soya beans, black fermented. Black beanssee Soya beans, black fermented. Brown bean saucesee Soya bean condiment. Cheese, redsee Bean curd cheese.
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Fermented black beanssee Soya beans, black fermented. Red bean sauce (sharng she jerng; a popular canned cooking sauce consisting of mashed red soya {or often azuki} beans). Red cheesesee Bean curd cheese. Seaweed (purple laver, hair seaweed). Sesame oil (jee ma yo). Sesame seeds (jee ma). Soya bean condiment (yewn she jerng. Variously called soy jam and brown bean sauce, this condiment is prepared from the residue left when making soya sauce. Wheat is sometimes added to the condiment, which is fermented and then called Meen She Jerng. These condiments are most commonly use in cooking fowl; also in meat dishes). Soya beans, fermented black (doe she. Tiny fermented beans which are washed, crushed, and used to add a pleasant spiciness to dishes. They are often used in sh dishes to alleviate any strong smell. It is a prime ingredient in Cantonese lobster). Soy jamsee Soya bean condiment. Soya sauce. The general term in Cantonese for soya sauce is She Yo. There are three main subdivisions: (1) Shang cho: Light brown, ne taste, light color. Used in cooking delicate foods were a heavy soya avor is not desired. (2) Cho yo: Dark and thick, containing molasses, yet not too strong a taste. Used mostly in restaurants. (3) Jew yo: Most suitable for general cooking purposes and for use at the table. Also: Japanese soya sauce, which is prepared with the addition of malt [koji], is much respected by the Chinese. Sweet-sour sauce: The recipe, which is given, contains 1 teaspoon soya sauce. Sweet vegetable sauce (hoi seen jerg [hoisin sauce]). A canned red sauce prepared from soya beans, red rice, and garlic. It is used in preparing Peking Roast Duck, sh and shellsh dishes. Tomato Catsup: Tomato catsup originated in China, as can be seen from the pronunciation of the Cantonese (Kair = tomato; Jup = sauce). Used in some braised dishes such as Shrimp Braised in Tomato Sauce. Address: San Francisco. 231. Mei, Yu Wen; Adams, Charlotte. 1963. 100 most honorable Chinese recipes. New York, NY: Thomas Y. Crowell Company. xi + 140 p. Illust. by Wen Mei. Index. 24 cm. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Chinese ingredients. Chinese cooking utensils and Western equivalents. Some tips on Chinese cookery. Menu for a Chinese dinner party. Daily dishes. Cold wine dishes. Hot wine dishes. Main dishes. Soups. Rice dishes. Desserts. General recipes. Mail order shops. Geographical locations of honorable recipes. This is a collection of the greatest classical recipes of China. All ve major schools of Chinese cooking are represented: Shanghai, Peking, Yang Chow (120 miles northwest of Shanghai; pinyin: Yangzhou; Wade-Giles: Yang-chou), Szechuan, and Canton. Yu Lin Chuan, one of Old Chinas most renowned restaurateurs, has selected these
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU recipes, all of which were translated by his daughter, Yu Wen Mei, and carefully tested by Charlotte Adamsto ensure ease of preparation by American homemakers. The chapter on Chinese ingredients describes the following soy-related ingredients: Agar-agar, bean curd (fresh, or fermented), Hoisin sauce, laver (seaweed), red beans [azuki] (tiny beans used for making sweet bean paste), sesame oil, soy bean paste (very salty, or lightly salted). Hoisin sauce is A delicious, thick, dark-brownish-red condiment, often used as an ingredient in cooked dishes, also as a side-dish sauce for dipping (p. 2). The chapter titled Some tips on Chinese cookery states (p. 7). Peanut oil is the preferred type of oil. If food is truly ne, there is no reason whatsoever to add monosodium glutamate to it, and you will note that it is required in none of the recipes. We strongly suggest that you buy imported soy sauce by the quart. The soy sauce made here is much saltier than that which comes from Hong Kong, and its use therefore alters the recipes. Many recipes are seasoned with soy sauce or soy bean paste Soy-related recipes: Shrimp and bean curd (Yang Chow; p. 24). Crabmeat and bean curd soup (p. 94). Shrimp ball, ham, and bean curd soup (p. 103). Red roast pork (Yang Chow, with soy sauce; p. 113). Almond bean curd (Peking; p. 121). Red bean paste I and II (p. 127-28). Note: This is the 2nd earliest document seen (Sept. 2008) that mentions Hoisin sauce. Address: New York City. 232. Wai, Nganshou. 1964. Soybean cheese. Bulletin of the Institute of Chemistry (Taiwan). Academia Sinica No. 9. p. 75-94. July. [5 ref. Eng] Summary: One of the best publications on fermented tofu, this work was supported by a grant (FG-Ta-100) from the USDA Agricultural Research Service. Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Experimental. Microbiological investigations (using sufu made at 3 factories in Taipei, Taiwan. All three used the same strain of Rhizopus chinensis). Many photos (magnication to 70 x to 700 x) show Rhizopus chinensis var. chungyuen, Mucor hiemalis and Mucor silvaticus. Procedures and results. Analyses. 3. Discussion. Mucor is the preferred mold. Summary of newly developed method. Appendix: (1) History of tofu. History of sufu. The ancient process for making fermented tofu. Salting. Table showing ve varieties of sufu and their nutritional composition. Soybean cheese (sufu) has been produced in China for many centuries. Which kind of fungus is adaptable for the preparation of sufu is one of the keystone problems in studying this vegetable cheese. The mycelial mat, grown on the cubes of rm tofu, should ideally be white (or slightly yellowish white), and the mycelial mat should be dense and tenacious so that a lm will be formed on the surface of the pehtze to serve as an envelope to protect the nished sufu from distortion in its shape. (Pehtze means the bean curd freshly grown with the fungus but not yet processed and aged
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to become sufu) (p. 75). In Taipei, Taiwan, sufu is made in three factories; all three used the same strain of fungi, which we will designate as Rhizopus chinensis var. chungyuen. Sufu is also made at home. It is well recognized by Chinese housewives that when soybean curd is covered with rice straw it will at last become pehtze of sufu. This may be explained by the fact that a kind of fungus naturally inhabiting on the rice straw may have the chance to grow on bean curd under favorable conditions. Two strains of fungi were isolated from the rice straw: Mucor heimalis and Mucor silvaticus. Many photomicrographs of all three molds are shown. Kaoliang wine is preferred is the typical solution of 12% NaCl and 10% ethanol (generally added as rice wine or distilled liquor) (p. 76-83). As to soybean cheese (sufu) it is not known when it rst started. The Food Encyclopedia, written by Wang Su-Hsiung [pinyin: Wang Suxiong] (1861) of the Ching Dynasty [Qing / Manchu dynasty, 1644-1912] describes [the food] as follows: Hardened tofu is difcult to digest and it is not good for children, old people or petients [ill persons]. Sufu, which is prepared from tofu, is very good for patients. Therefore, we may presume to say that soybean cheese has been put for sale [sold] long before the Ching Dynasty (p. 92). The ve varieties shown in the table are: Rose sufu (to which some rose essence is added), Fermented rice sufu (tsao sufu, to which some pressed residue from rice wine {also called fermented rice mash}, cloves and orange peels are added), Red sufu (to which red koji and soy mash [red rice koji and sake lees] are added; red koji is boiled rice grown with Monascus anka [angkak]), and Kwantung Sufu [sic, Kwangtung Sufu from Kwangtung province in southeast China] (to which salt, red koji, red pepper and anise are added), and Yunnan sufu. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2007) that uses the terms rose sufu tsao sufu fermented rice sufu red sufu Kwantung sufu Kwangtung sufu or Yunnan sufu to refer to different types of fermented tofu. It is also the 2nd earliest Englishlanguage document seen (Feb. 2007) that contains the term fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word pehtze to refer to bean curd freshly overgrown with the fungus but not yet processed and aged to become sufu. Address: Inst. of Chemistry, Academia Sinica, Taiwan. 233. Aykroyd, Wallace R.; Doughty, Joyce. 1964. Legumes in human nutrition. FAO Nutritional Studies No. 19. xi + 138 p. Reissued by FAO in 1982 (152 p.). [119 ref] Summary: Contents: Preface. Introduction. History of legumes. Production and consumption. Composition and nutritive value. Methods of processing and cooking: Soybean preparations in East Asia (p. 48-52)Germination (sprouted
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU soybeans), soybean curd (tofu, incl. chou tofu or stinking soybean curd), soy sauce (shoyu), soybean paste (miso), tempeh, natto, hamanatto, soybean milk, fermented preparations from groundnuts. Groundnut our. Effects of processing on nutritive value: Soaking, decortication, heating, germination, fermentation (mentions tempeh), effects of storage. Toxic substances. Legume proteins. Observations on the value of legumes in human feeding. The place of legumes in human diets. Appendixes: (1) Legumes eaten by man. (2) Nutritive value of important legumes. (3) Amino acid content of legumes. (4) Account of lathyrism in central India by General Sleeman. (5) Bibliography of soybean (11 references). Some legume recipes. References. Soybeans are also mentioned on pages 15 (Table 1, Important legumes), 23 (Indonesia, soybean curd, soy sauce, tempeh), 23-24 (Japan, miso, shoyu, natto, tofu, Korea, Taiwan), 39-40 (carbohydrates in soybeans include galactans, pentoses, and hemicelluloses which are poorly utilized. Fats: only the groundnut and soybean are important sources of it), 55 (heating and trypsin inhibitor, methionine and cystine, raw unheated soybean meal, saridele), 58 (fermentation, tempeh, PER), 75-76 (protein values), 81 (Dean used soybeans to treat a protein deciency), 84 (soybeans in India), 97 (soybean curd). Appendix 1, titled Legumes eaten by man (p. 101-14), lists the various legumes by their Latin names. The entry for Psophocarpus tetragonolobus gives its vernacular names as Goa bean, asparagus pea, winged pea, winged bean, sesquidillas. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2007) that uses the word sesguidillas to refer to the winged bean. Address: 1. Dep. of Human Nutrition, London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine; Former Director, Nutrition Div., FAO, Rome, Italy. 234. Hesseltine, C.W. 1965. A millennium of fungi, food, and fermentation. Mycologia 57(2):149-97. March/April. [38 ref] Summary: A landmark, widely cited work on indigenous fermented foods. Interestingly, it makes no mention of amazake, or kanjang (Korean soy sauce). Contents: Tempeh. Ragi. Sufu (describes process, mentions pehtzes and the mold Actinomucor elegans NRRL 3104). Color photos (sent by Dr. Clifford Hesseltine) show: (1) Luxuriant growth of Actinomucor elegans mold on some skewered cubes of tofu in an incubator; on the top row are uninoculated cubes. (2) Cubes of sufu in their nal form after removal from brine. Thamnidium (meat tenderizer and avor enhancer from the mold Thamnidium elegans). Miso. Shoyu (incl. tamari. In China, shoyu is more of the tamari type, that is, more soybeans are used and less wheat,...). Tea fungus. Ang-Kak (p. 179-81). Advantages of fermenting foods. The future of
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food fermentations. The glossary gives brief descriptions of aga-koji, akakoji, amylo process, anchu, angkak, angkhak, ang-quac, anka, ankak, arack, arak, arrack, atsumandie, awamori, bagoong, bakhar, beni-koji, benikoji, braga, brem, busa, chao, chau yau (Chinese name for shoyu), chee-fan (a type of Chinese cheese or sufu), chiang (Chinese equivalent of miso), chicha, Chinese cheese (sufu), Chinese red rice (ang-kak), chiu-chu (Chinese yeast), chiu-niang (Chinese term for koji), chou [ch] (Chinese equivalent of koji), dahi, dawadawa (made from African locust beanParkia licoidea; soy is not mentioned), dhokla, dosai, fermentation of citron, fermented sh, fermentation of maize, fermented minchin (wheat gluten), fermented soybeans (a Chinese food prepared from small black soybeans. See A.K. Smith 1961 [soy nuggets]), sh paste, sh sauce, sh soy, fu-yu, fu-yue, fuyu (see sufu [fermented tofu] for all 3), ginger beer plant, grib, hamanatto, hon-fan [fermented tofu], hongo, hung-chu, idli, injera, jamin-bang, java yeast, jotkal, kafr beer, kanji, katsuobushi, katyk, ker, ketjap, kimchi, kishk, kisselo mleko, koji, kombucha (tea fungus fermentation), kome-miso, kuban, kumiss, kumys, kushik, kushuk, kvass, kwass, kyoku-shi, lao-chao, leben, lebeny, levain of khasia, levain of sikkin, lontjom (ontjom), magou, mahewu, maize fermentation of the maoris, mazun, medusen tee, meen, meitauza, meju (fermented soybeans of Korea), mn, mien (Chinese yeast), mirin, mish, miso, moromi, mugi miso, murcha, nappi, nata, natto, ngapi, nuoc-mam, nukamiso, ontjom, patis, paw tsay, peh-khak, pehtze, peujeum, peyem, poi, prahoc, pulque, raggi, ragi, ranu, red pepper sauce, red rice, red sufu, sajur asin, saraimandie, sekihan, shiro koji, shottsuru, shoyou, sho-yu, shoyu, soja japonais (shoyu), sonti (a rice beer wine of India), South African fermented corn, soy, soybean cheese [fermented tofu], soy sauce, sufu, su fu [both fermented tofu], sweet our paste, taette, tahuli, tahuri [both Philippine fermented soybean curd], takuwan, tamari, tane koji, tao-cho [taotjo], taokoan [pressed or rm tofu, not fermented], tao dji (see taotjo {sic}), tao-si ([soy nuggets]; see Handbook of Philippine Agriculture. 1939. p. 132-43), tao-tjung, tao-yu, taotjo, tapej, tape ketan, tape ketella, tarhana, tea beer, tea cider, tea fungus, teekwass, teeschwamm, tempe, tempeh, tempeh bongkrek, tempeh kedelee, thamnidium, thumba, tibi, tien mien chang [chiang], tojo, tokua, torani, tosufu, toyo, trassi, tsue fan, tuwak, uri, u-t-iat, wunder pilz, yen-tsai. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions Actinomucor elegans in connection with sufu [fermented tofu]. In 1966 Hesseltine describes it as the best mold for use in making this fermented food. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms fuyu or fu-yue or chao to refer to fermented tofu. Note 3. This is the earliest document seen (July 2000) that mentions mugi misoa type of miso made with barley
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HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU koji. By the mid- to late-1960s, macrobiotic companies in the USA were importing barley miso from Japan and labeling it Mugi Miso. Photos show: (0) Clifford W. Hesseltine (portrait). (1-3) Rhizopus oligosporus mold, used to make tempeh (3 views). (4) Skewered cubes of sufu in an incubator, with one skewer of uninoculated tofu cubes and three rows of tofu inoculated with Actinomucor elegans showing luxuriant growth of mold. (5) Cubes of Chinese cheese [fermented tofu] removed from brine. (6) Dilution plate of tane koji showing different types of Aspergillus oryzae. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 235. Hesseltine, C.W. 1965. A millennium of fungi, food, and fermentation: Ang-kak (Document part). Mycologia 57(2):149-97. March/April. See p. 179-81, 184-85. [4 ref] Summary: Ang-kak, or red-rice, is a product made by fermenting rice with certain strains of Monascus purpureus Went. Our culture, NRRL 2897, used to carry on this fermentation was isolated from a sample of ang-kak bought in the Manila market in the Philippines. Ang-kak is used for coloring various foods including sh and Chinese cheese, and for manufacturing red wine in the Orient. It is used in China, Taiwan, and the Philippines, and presumably in many other countries of the Orient. It is stated also to impart avor. The most recent authoritative account of this product and its fermentation is by Palo, Vidal-Adeva and Maceda (1961) at the Philippine National Institute of Science and Technology. According to them, it is known under the following names: red rice, Chinese red rice, ang-kak, ankak, anka, ang-quac, beni-koji, and aga-koji. Church (1920) points out that strains of this mold may be isolated from many sources but only certain ones are suitable for the fermentation. They must produce a dark red growth on the rice, but also must form the pigment throughout the rice kernels, and must do this at low enough moisture levels to allow the individual grains to remain separate from one another. A long paragraph then describes how to prepare ang-kak on a laboratory scale. After drying, ang-kak can be ground into a our and used to color various foods mentioned above. It contains two pigments: monoascorubrin (red) and monascoavin (yellow). The glossary mentions synonyms for ang-kak: aga-koji [aka-koji], akakoji (Red rice in Formosa), angkak (Chinese red rice), angkhak, ang-quac, anka, ankak, beni-koji, benikoji, Chinese red rice (ang-kak), red rice (used to make red sufu [= red fermented tofu]). Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 236. Ohta, Teruo. 1965. Nyfu [Fermented tofu]. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi (J. of the Society of Brewing, Japan) 60(7):588-91. July; 60(8):695-99. Aug. [3 ref. Jap] Summary: This is the earliest document seen that mentions Yamazaki, who found the earliest reference to fermented tofu in China. Address: Norinsho Shokuhin Sogo Kenkyujo.
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237. Findlay, W.P.K. 1965. Fermented foods. British Vegetarian. July/Aug. p. 282-83. [1 ref] Summary: In 1964 at the Botanical Congress in Edinburgh, Scotland, an American mycologist, Dr. C.W. Hesseltine, gave a fascinating account of the studies he has made of foods fermented with molds. A full account of his work has just been published in Mycologia. 1965. 57(2): March/April. This is a summary of that article, focusing on tempeh, sufu or Chinese cheese, miso, and shoyu or soy sauce. Address: D.Sc. 238. Fukushima, D.; Arai, A. Assignors to Kikkoman Shoyu K.K. 1965. Daizu o genry to shita kabi-chiizu no seizh [Process for making a mold-fermented cheese from soybeans]. Japanese Patent 21,228. 2 p. Application led 19 June 1964. [Jap] Address: Kikkoman. 239. Brandemuhl, William. 1965. Soybean utilization in Japan. San Francisco, California. xxii + 478 p. Unpublished manuscript. 28 cm. [189 ref] Summary: A superb, in-depth, pioneering study, based on extensive original eld research in Japan. It is carefully documented with hundreds of original interviews and published sources properly cited in two different lists of sources (numerical and alphabetical) Contains 30 tables and 190 excellent photosincluding 7 of the author. Table of contents: Preface. Notes. List of tables. List of gures. Map. Part I: Background. 1. The soybean: Birth and spread (legend, botanical inception, Nagatas theory of origin, spread to Japan and beyond, the American story). Part II: Japans production and supply of soybeans. 1. Japan the country and supply of domestic soybeans (Japan the country, domestic soybean production, planting and harvesting, marketing domestic soybean). 2. Importation of Red Chinese soybeans (background, mechanics, advantages, and prospects). 3. Importation of U.S. soybeans (history, method and mechanics of importation, the American shippers, concluding comments on importation). 4. Distribution (use in brief, super-wholesaler, wholesaler, retailer wholesaler, Japans grain exchange). Part III: Soybean utilization in Japan. 1. Utilization of soybeans for oil and meal (oil crushing history, soybean source, delivery of soybeans, the crushing industry, liberalization of soybean oil and meal, oil utilization in Japan, meal utilization in Japan). 2. Tofu (history, use of soybeans, manufacture, the tofu factory, marketing tofu products, recently developed tofu products, tofu as food, concluding comments). 3. Miso (importation, home production of miso, quantity of miso produced, soybean used for producing miso, kinds of miso, fermentation time, comparison of miso rms, manufacturing, packing
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and marketing, price, instant miso, use of miso, miso consumption outlook). 4. Shoyu (introduction, production and manufacturers, manufacture, raw materials, preparation of raw materials for natural shoyu, preparation of materials for chemical method shoyu, preparation of materials for mixed method shoyu, fermentation, ltering and pressing, sterilization, bottling, price, use of shoyu, miscellaneous shoyu products, concluding comments). 5. Natto (description, history, Daitokuji natto, the natto industry, consumption, natto soybeans, processing, making cost and price, marketing, use of natto, problems, new ideas and natto products). 6. Frozen tofu (history, development, frozen tofu soybeans, processing, freezing, defrosting, drying, treatment with ammonia and packing, marketing, preservation, use). 7. Kinako. 8. Yuba (history and development, the plight of the yuba industry, soybeans for yuba, manufacture, classication of yuba, use). 9. Tsukudani and nimame (description, soybean tsukudani, nimame). 10. Hamanatto (history, manufacture, use). 11. Edamame. 12. Moyashi (manufacture, use). 11. Miscellaneous products (fermented soybean curd, MSG, confectionary products, other products). Conclusion. Sources (numerically arranged). Sources (alphabetically arranged). Tables: 1. U.S. soybean production, 1924-1963. 2. United States, Red China, and world production of soybeans (bushels), 1950-1963. 3. U.S. soybean importation, exportation and amount processed for oil and meal, 19241963. 4. U.S. exportation of soybeans (1,000 bushels) total, by continent, and to six largest importing countries, 1958-1962. 5. Japans soybean acreage, production, and merchandising rate. 6. Japans importation of soybeans, total, and Red Chinas portion, 1945-1963. 7. Japans total importation of soybeans and U.S. portion, 1945-1963. 8. Soybean usage in Japan, 1963. 9. Japans processing of oilseeds, 1963. 10. Crushing capacity of selected Japanese oilseed crushers. 11. Eight largest crushers of soybeans and amount of soybeans crushed per month in 1963. 12. Total quantity of soybeans crushed in Japan, 1950-1963. 13. Japans daily per capita intake of edible fats and oils. 14. Japans consumption of edible fats and oils, 1945-1961. 15. Use of soybean meal. 16. Chemical composition of tofu and aburaage. 17. Quantity of soybeans and soybean meal used for tofu-aburaage productions (all Japan), 1950-1963. 18. Miso production and quantity of soybeans and soybean meal used, 1950-1963. 19. Composition of miso. 20. Daily per capita consumption of miso in Japan, 1950-1963. 21. All Japan production of shoyu and use of soybeans and soybean meal, 1950-1963. 22. Composition of shoyu. 23. Yearly per capita consumption of shoyu, 1950-1963. 24. Composition of natto. 25. Production of frozen tofu and use of soybeans. 26. Composition of frozen tofu. 27. Yearly per capita consumption of frozen tofu. 28. Composition of kinako. 29. Composition of yuba. 30. Monosodium glutamate production and use of soybeans and soybean meal. Continued.
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This typed manuscript was sent to Soyfoods Center in July 2004 by Tomoko Brandemuhl, the wife of the author. About the author (based on several interviews with Tomoko, July 2004): William Victor Brandemuhl was born on 30 Nov. 1940 at Iron Mountain, Michigan. He grew up in Florence, Wisconsin, then attended the University of Wisconsin at Madison. He roomed for 3-4 years with various Japanese cancer researchers at the university. He also became close to Tomoko Arai (born 12 Dec. 1937 in Tokyo), a Japanese woman, who was doing graduate studies in social work there as a Rotary International Fellowship student. William initially intended to graduate in June 1962, but stayed an extra year in order to pursue independent studies in Japanese language and soybeans. He became interested in the soybean and its history in an anthropology class taught by Dr. R.J. Miller; William nished his excellent research paper on soybeans in Jan. 1963. He also took one year of Japanese language instruction (night classes). William graduated in Jan. 1963 with a BSc degree in economics. William obtained a grant (no strings attached) from Honeymead Products Co. of Mankato, Minnesota, to study soybean utilization in Japan. Only one American had studied this subject in Japan after World War IIAlan K. Smith of the USDA, who visited Japan and wrote short but detailed reports in 1948-49 and 1958. In Jan. 1963 Brandemuhl arrived in Japan and became research fellow at the Department of Agricultural Economics, Kyoto University, Kyoto, Japan. Between Feb. 1963 and May 1964 (15 months) he conducted eld research on soybean utilization in Japan. In June 1963 (after William had been in Japan for 4 months), Tomoko completed her graduate studies, graduated from the University of Wisconsin, and (since her scholarship was nished), returned to Japanto be with William and to help him with his research in Japanese, which he spoke only moderately well. She traveled with him throughout Japan and translated for him during the many interviews he conducted. At each destination, she spoke about America to the local Rotary clubwhich paid her transportation, room, and board. Williams monthly check from Honeymead paid for his room and boardbut not for his travel and research, so he had to work part time doing English translation for a Japanese company. On trips, he took many photos using his expensive Nikon camera. Tomokos family lived near Kobe, where she and William were married on 8 Aug. 1964three months after he nished his eld research. Several days after the marriage, they returned to the USA to visit his parents in Florence, Wisconsin, and enjoy a wedding party there. William now knew he wanted to pursue a career in international business. He was soon offered a job at Crocker Citizen National Bank (International Division) in San Francisco, California. They drove to San Francisco and got an apartment at 1701 21st Avenue; he began work that fall, and was soon learning the basics of international business. Every evening after work at the bank he returned home to
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU work on transforming his eld notes into a manuscript. As he wrote the rough draft, Tomoko (a skilled pianist but not a skilled typist) typed it on a manual typewriter. The next day he would correct any mistakes and she would retype each page into nal form. In 1965 he had the best carbon copy bound and sent it to Honeymead; he kept the original. It was never published and he received no academic credit for it. On 26 May 1966 their rst son and only child, Konrad Victor Brandemuhl, was born in San Francisco. They bought a house in Pacica. In 1967 he was offered a job with Caterpillar Tractor Co. (International Div.) in Peoria, Illinois. In 1968 he moved with his boss to work at Allis-Chalmers Manufacturing Co., West Allis, Wisconsin. In 1969 he was transferred to Tokyo, Japan, as Far East Representative of the company. In 1970 he was transferred to Singapore as Far East Manager of the company. William and Tomoko later lived for about 10 years near Tokyo, Japan (mostly in Mitaka), and for a while in Singapore. Over the years he showed his typescript on Soybean Utilization in Japan to many people, but nobody was interested. In 1986 he started his own trading company, specializing in textiles, natural rubber, latex thread, and various machine mechanisms. Tragically, William died on 2 April 1998 in Bangkok, Thailand, of pneumonia, during a business trip. He loved the excitement of international business and interaction with people of different cultural backgrounds. Address: San Francisco, California. 240. Burke, Helen; Tong, Fu. 1965. Chinese cooking for pleasure. London: Paul Hamlyn Ltd. 151 + 5] p. Illust. (some color). Index. 29 cm. Summary: Preface, by Fu Tong (Food is my whole life). Introduction, by Helen Burke. The recipes are largely Cantonese, and soy nuggets (dow see) appear in quite a few: Pacic prawns and black soya beans (p. 40; with 2 tablespoons canned black soya beans). Duck with black beans (p. 65; 1 tablespoon canned black [soya] beans). Chicken and black beans (p. 73; 1 tablespoon canned black beans). Soya eggs (p. 138; with 2 tablespoons dark soy sauce). The Glossary (p. 150-51) includes: Red bean curd; comes in 6-oz cans. Yellow and black soya beans; sold in 6-oz. cans. Note: Many recipes call for Ve-Tsin or monosodium glutamate. It is known under many brand names; Accent (made in USA), Aji no Moto (made in Japan). Mei Yen (made by the Spice Islands Co. of California), Stress (made in Great Britain) and Ve-Tsin (made in Hong Kong). Home cooks, in the wake of food manufacturers, are realising, more and more, the virtue of M.S.G. under whatever name it is bought and it is growing in popularity. Like all seasonings and avourings, a little goes a long way. Address: 1. Food writer, London, England, and, British Columbia, Canada; 2. Owner of four Chinese restaurants in Europe.
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241. David-Perez, Enriqueta. comp. and ed. 1965. Recipes of the Philippines. Philippines: Published by the author. Printed by Capitol Publishing House, Inc. (Quezon City). 86 + [14] p. Illust. No index. 22 cm. Summary: This is an expanded edition of the authors 1953 book of the same title. Almost all the recipes in this book have Filipino names, with no English translation of those names. A surprisingly large number contain soyfoods (See Glossary at end). Misu is a paste made of fermented rice and soy beans [miso]. Tajure is fermented soy beans, caked (fermented tofu). Tausi is fermented soy beans [soy nuggets or fermented black soybeans with salt]. Tokua is soy bean curd (tofu). Toyo is Filipino-style soy sauce. Soy-related recipes include: Chicken pastel (with toyo, p. 26). Arroz caldo with chicken (with 3 tbsp. patis or toyo, p. 45). Bagus en tocho2 (with 2 tbsp. each tajure and tausi, and 1 cake tokua, cut into pieces 3/4 inch long and 1/8 inch wide, p. 54). Bagus in soy sauce (with 2 tbsp. soy sauce, p. 54). Bulanglang1 (with 1 cup tokua, cubed and fried, p. 57). Burong isda (with 1 tbsp. angkakfermented red rice, p. 59). Escabecheng apahap (with 4 pieces tokua, p. 71). EscabecheMacao style (with 3 tbsp. toyo sauce, p. 71). Kari-karing pata (with ground toasted peanuts or peanut butter, p. 79). Lumpia labong (with 5 bean cakestokua, p. 83). Lumpia sauce (with cup toyo sauce, p. 84). Lumpia with peanuts (with 2 squares tokuadiced, 2 tbsp. toyosoy sauce, and 1 cup ground peanuts, p. 85). Lumpia with ubod 2 (with 2 cakes tokua, and toyo to taste, p. 87). Misu-tomato sauce (with 2 tbsp. misusoy bean paste, p. 92). Pancit luglug (with cup soy bean caketokuacut into small cubes, p. 97). Umba (with 2 tbsp. toyo and 1 heaping tbsp. tausi, p. 118). Pastillas de mani (with 1 can ground peanuts, p. 133). On the page facing p. 186 is a full page ad for Suki Soy Sauce, made by the Philippine Shoyu Co., Liloan, Cebu, Philippines. It is Pure and fully aged. Seven unnumbered pages later is a full-page ad for Ajino-Moto super seasoning... The purest vetsin ever. A glossary at the end contains brief denitions of uncommon ingredients. Denitions of the soy-related ingredients above are taken from this glossary. Angkak is red-colored grains of rice used as coloring for fermented sh. Note: On the title page is printed 10th printing1965 but no original publication date is given. Address: Philippines. 242. Times (London).1966. Happy Chinese cooking talk. Jan. 17. p. 11, cols. 4-5. Summary: A new book, Chinese Cooking for Pleasure, by Mr. Fu Tong and Miss Helen Burke has been published by Paul Hamlyn. A recipe is given. The book lists three establishments in London that specialize in Oriental supplies:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Bombay Emporium (largest selection), Chinese Emporium, and Hong Kong Emporium. To the inexperienced, the bewildering array of new foods include red bean curd [fermented tofu], black bean [black soya bean], yellow soy bean, and sesame oil. 243. Miller, Gloria Bley. 1966. The thousand recipe Chinese cookbook. New York, NY: Antheneum. First Grosset & Dunlap edition 1970. xiv + 926 p. Illust. magnicently by Earl Thollander. Index. 26 cm. Summary: This excellent, massive volume, by the blondhaired wife (a professional writer; photo shown on dust jacket) of a Greenwich Village sculptor, offers an in-depth introduction to Chinese cooking and ingredients, though it is unusually heavy on esh foods and light on grain and vegetable dishesas the following listing of recipes will show. In describing The Chinese Diet (p. 3-4) the author notes, Meat does not predominate, vegetables do:... There are no dairy products: Butter, cheese and milk are practically unknown to Chinese cooking. (Cattle, few and far between, were more protably put to work as beasts of burden.) Yet, with nutritional ingenuity, the Chinese created their own cow which produced its own dairy products. They took the lowly soybean, whose protein closely resembles that of meat, and transformed it in innumerable ways. They softened and ground the soybean, then mixed it with water, converting it rst to milk, then to curd, and nally to cheese. (They also put it to many other uses: made it into sauce and jam; served its sprouts as vegetables; fermented, dried and roasted it; used it salty as a condiment, sweet in pastries.) Page 75 notes: Soy sauce should be used discreetly in light soups. If possible, it should be light soy. The dark variety can destroy a soups lightness and clarity; its strong taste can overwhelm avors. Soy-related recipes include: Basic bean curd soup (p. 99-100). Basic cold bean curd (p. 114). Slivered bean curd and shrimp (p. 115). Stir-fried pork and bean curd (p. 133). Stir-fried pork with deep-fried bean curd. Stir-fried pork with pressed bean curd (p. 135). Stir-fried roast pork and bean curd I and II (p. 156-57). Basic steamed minced pork (with fermented black beans, p. 167-68). Steamed sliced pork with ham and bean curd (p. 170). Steamed sliced pork with white cheese [white fermented tofu] (p. 171). Basic braised pork with bean curd (p. 174-75). Braised pork with red bean cheese (p. 176). Braised pork with chestnuts, mushrooms and ginkgo nuts (p. 176-77) has a variation that calls for pound dried bean curd sticks. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (June 2011) that uses the term dried bean curd sticks to refer to dried yuba sticks. Braised pork and bean curd (p. 180). Braised ve-ower pork and red bean cheese (p. 18081). Red-simmered pork (with soy sauce, p. 186-88). Stirfried spareribs with black bean sauce [made from fermented black beans] (p. 202-03. Mince garlic and scallion stalk,
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then mash with soaked black beans. Combine with sherry, water and soy sauce). Steamed spareribs with black bean sauce (p. 206. Mince garlic and mash with soaked black beans; then combine with cornstarch, soy sauce and sugar. Pour mixture over ribs). Braised spareribs with black bean sauce (p. 206. Mince garlic and ginger root, then mash with soaked black beans). Braised spareribs with red bean cheese (p. 206). Stir-fried beef and bean curd (p. 215). Redsimmered beef (with soy sauce, p. 245-46). Red-simmered (or cooked) duck (with soy sauce, p. 267-71). Stir-fried chicken with soy jam (p. 325-26). Stir-fried chicken and tomatoes with black beans [fermented black beans] (p. 327-28). Stir-fried deep-fried chicken with brown bean sauce (p. 329). Stir-fried deep-fried chicken with soybean paste (p. 330-31). Red-cooked or soy chicken (p. 366-69). Steamed sh topped with black bean sauce [fermented black beans] (p. 411-12). Braised soy sh (p. 429-32). Braised sh with deep-fried bean curd (p. 434). Braised sh steaks with bean curd (p. 435). Deep-fried bean curd stuffed with minced sh (p. 448). Braised dried oysters with bean curd sticks [dried yuba sticks] (p. 483). Stir-fried shrimp with bean curd I and II (p. 496). Stir-fried shrimp with deep-fried bean curd (p. 497). Stir-fried shrimp with black bean sauce [fermented black beans] I and II (p. 500). Poached shrimp with ham and bean curd (p. 527). Basic omelet with bean curd I and II (p. 551-52). Fried eggs with soy sauce (p. 569). Soy eggs (also called pot-stewed or red-stewed eggs). Soy duck eggs (p. 574). Basic stir-fried bean curd (p. 593). Basic deepfried bean curd (p. 594). Deep-fried bean curd with dried shrimp sauce. Steamed stuffed bean curd (with pork, p. 595). Miscellaneous bean curd (p. 595-96). Stir-fried spinach and white cheese [fermented tofu] (p. 618-19). Stir-fried string beans and white cheese [fermented tofu] (p. 620-21). Basic Buddhist vegetable dish (A vegetarian dish known as Lo Hon Ji or Lohan Tsai; Variation: In step 4, stir 2 tablespoons Chinese red cheese, mashed, into the water-soy mixture;... p. 623). Soy jam noodles (p. 660). Noodles in brown bean sauce (and hoisin sauce, p. 661). Dips (incl. Dip for deepfried bean curd; many use soy sauce or hoisin sauce, p. 70914). Soy-vinegar dressing. Soy-sesame dressing (p. 715, with soy sauce and sesame oil). Soy-oil dressing (with soy sauce and peanut oil, p. 716). Marinades (many use soy sauce, hoisin sauce, brown bean sauce, or red bean cheese, p. 71724). Sauces (many use soy sauce or yellow bean paste, incl. Sweet-and-pungent sauces, p. 725-39). The chapter titled Other Useful Information tells more about bean curd. The extensive Glossary of Chinese Ingredients (p. 844-72) contains the following soy-related entries: Bean curd (bean cakes; note that recipes call for a certain number of cakes of tofu). Bean curd sauce (see cheese, Chinese white). Bean curd sticks (dried bean curd [dried yuba sticks = foo jook]; Long, dried, cream-colored sticks, about
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU inch wide and 20 inches long, but bent in two. Are stiff and striated with an enamel-like surface. Sometimes called Second Bamboo because they come from the residue or second layer of creamy bean curd [yuba]. Must be soaked; then they become chewy in texture, nutlike in avor. Used as a vegetable with soup, steamed sh, stir-fried and braised pork... Other dried varieties include sweet bean curd sticks [tim jook or tiem joke], which are similar but thicker, and are used in sh and vegetarian dishes). Bean paste, yellow (yellow sauce). Bean sauce, brown (see brown bean sauce). Beans, black (Type of beans not given. Note: Sweetened black beans used as a pastry lling sold in Chinese bakeries). Beans, black fermented beans (black bean sauce or salted black beans). Brown bean sauce. Cheese, Chinese red (red bean curd cheese, spiced red bean curd, or southern cheese). Cheese, Chinese white (bean curd sauce, white bean curd cheese, or white bean sauce). Five Spices (ve-avored powder or ve-fragrance spice powder; star anise, anise pepper, fennel, cloves, cinnamon). Hoisin sauce (haisien sauce, Peking sauce, red seasoning sauce, red vegetable sauce, sweet vegetable paste, or sweet vegetable sauce; another variety is called Ten-Flavored Sauce). Pickles, Chinese (pickled vegetables; pickled in soy sauce). Red bean sauce. Soy jam (soybean paste). Soy sauce (light, black, or heavy varieties). Hoisin sauce (p. 855) is a Thick, dark brownish-red sauce, made from soy beans, spices, garlic and chili. Sweet and spicy. Used in cooking and as a table condiment. The chapters titled Storing Information and Soaking Information include such information on many of the foods listed in the glossary. The chapter titled Chinese terminology is especially valuable because it gives the Cantonese names of Chinese foods. It contains the following soy-related entries: Bean curd: Dow foo or dau foo. Bean curd, deep fried: Dow foo pok. Bean curd, spiced: Dow foo kon. Bean curd, watery: Dow foo fa [literally tofu owers; tofu curds]. Bean curd sticks: Foo jook or foo joke. Bean curd sticks, sweet: Tim jook or tim joke. Bean paste, red: Dow sha or dow cha [azuki]. Bean paste, yellow: Wong dow sa [soy]. Beans, black: Woo dow. Beans, black fermented: Dow see or doe shee. Beans, sweet black: Dow sa. Beans, red: Hoong dow [azuki]. Bean sprouts, soy: Dow gna or dow ngah. Brown bean sauce: Min see jeung or mien see jeung. Catsup: Fon ker jeung. Cheese, Chinese red: Nom yee or Narm yoo [fermented tofu]. Cheese, Chinese white: Foo yee or Foo yoo [fermented tofu]. Hoisin sauce: Hoy sin jeung or hoy sein jeung. Oil, peanut: Far sung yow. Oil, sesame: Jee ma yo or jee ma yow. Peanuts: Far sang or far sung. Red bean sauce: Saang see jeung or shargn she jeung. Sesame paste: Jee ma jeung. Sesame seeds: Jee ma. Soy jam: Yewn she jeung. Soy sauce: See yu or shee yau or sho yu. Soy sauce, light: Sang chau. Soy sauce, dark: Chow yau or cho yo. Soy sauce, heavy: See yau or jeow yau.
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Photos show: A bottle of Chou Soy sauce made by Amoy Canning Co. (p. 112). A brick-shaped can of Thick Soy made by Tung Chun Canning Co. (p. 126). An earthenware jug of Ho Sang Yick Soy Sauce (p. 203). A Mason-type jar of fermented bean curd made by Tung Chun Soy (p. 596). A bottle of Koon Chu* soy [sauce] (p. 715). Address: Greenwich Village, New York City. 244. Wong, Ella-Mei. 1966. Chinese cookery. New York, NY: Arco Publ. Co. [xi] + 100 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. Summary: A charming book by an Australian born woman of Chinese ancestry, copyrighted in 1961. She presently conducts the Chinese Cookery course at East Sydney Technical College... She has also published features in the Australian Womans Weekly. The foreword is by D.W. Grover, 1961 Head of Food School, East Sydney Technical College. Chapter 1, Chinese ways and means, includes three sections on ingredients. The rst such section, Dried ingredients, has an entry for Bean curd (foo jook) [dried yuba sticks] (p. 7). This is sold in sticks or sheets [yuba]; soak in warm water for 10 to 15 minutes. It has little avor of its own but is highly nutritious and is served with other foods to absorb their avours. Used in soups and braised dishesthe latter are served on days of fasting. The third such section, Sauces and seasonings, includes (p. 10-11): Hoysin jeung [Hoisin sauce, hoy sin jeung]: Obtainable in tins. This is made of [soy] bean our and spices, very rich in avour and color. It is easy to become accustomed to this taste. Monosodium glutamate... It is of vegetable origin and used very sparingly and with discretion it enhances the natural avour of foods. The Chinese version is a ne white powder called Ve-tsin. In Australia it is known as Zip. Red bean curd [red fermented tofu]: A soy bean product, obtainable in tins. The red colour is added. Soy sauce: Made from salted and fermented soy beans. No Chinese kitchen is ever without it. There are different grades, ranging from thin to thick, and the colour varies from light brown to dark reddish brown... Taofu [tofu]: Made from soy bean curd, a similar texture to soft cheese. It has no avour of its own, but is highly nutritious. It is usually cut into blocks about one inch by 3 inches. In its fresh state it has a milky colour and is also cut into one-inch cubes and deep-fried. White bean curd: Made from soy bean, salted and used as an appetizer or with vegetable dishes. In Chapter 4, Vegetables (p. 31): Bean sprouts can be cultivated in the kitchen by sprinkling green beans [mung beans] with warm water... The soy bean can also be sprouted, but usually the sprout is tougher. In this chapter, the recipe for Fasting food (jie) (p. 33) calls for 3 sticks bean curd (foo jook) and 4 blocks bean curds (taofu). This dish is eaten during the Moon Festival and on the second day of the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU New Year. In Chapter 7, Seafood, the recipe for Steamed whole sh with black beans (dow see jing yee) calls for 1 tablespoon preserved Chinese black beans (dow see) (p. 69). Note 1. Soy sauce and monosodium glutamate (typically teaspoon per recipe) are called for in many recipes in this book. (2) Rice with red beans (Hoong dow farn) calls for 4 tablespoons red beans (hoong dow) (azuki beans) (p. 87). Address: [Australia]. 245. Hesseltine, Clifford W. 1967. Fermented products: Miso, sufu, and tempeh. USDA Agricultural Research Service. ARS-71-35. p. 170-80. May. Proceedings of International Conference on Soybean Protein Foods. Held 17-19 Oct. 1966 at Peoria, Illinois. [12 ref] Summary: Discusses: Miso. Sufu, or Chinese cheese [fermented tofu]. Tempeh. Absence of aatoxin in fermented food products. Table 1 shows mold fermented food products tested for aatoxin and found negative. These include shoyu, miso, Chinese black beans (Soy nuggets from Taiwan), Hamanatto, moromi, soy tempeh, wheat tempeh, rice tempeh, wheat-soybean tempeh. Concerning sufu: The pehtzes [molded tofu cubes] are next brined in various solutions depending on the avor desired. A typical brine would consist of 12% NaCl and 10% ethanol (sometimes added as rice wine). In other instances, only a salt brine may be used. The molded cakes are allowed to age for about 2 months. The nished cheese along with the brine is bottled, sterilized, and marketed as sufu. Of all the various Mucor species tested for use in making, the Actinomucor elegans used commercially is the best proteinase and almost the best lipase producer. This same fungus is used in China to produce a food made by fermentation of wheat gluten Address: Northern Utilization R&D Div., ARS, USDA, Peoria, Illinois. 246. Wang, Hwa L. 1967. Release of proteinase from mycelium of Mucor hiemalis. J. of Bacteriology 93(6):179499. June. [11 ref] Summary: Mucor hiemalis NRRL 3103 is a mold used in Chinese cheese (sufu) fermentation. The optimal pH of the proteinase enzyme ranged from 3.0 to 3.5. It is well known that the great majority of molds produce appreciable amounts of proteolytic enzymes, which may be cell-bound or extracellular according to the type of organism producing them. Since tofu, the substrate on which these enzymes act in making sufu, has an extremely high protein content (60% on a dry weight basis), it is important that the proteinase enzymes be as abundant and as active as possible. Addition of NaCl to the growth medium released the proteinase enzyme from the mycelium. Proteolytic activity was greatest at a NaCl concentration of about 0.5 M. Address:
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Fermentation Lab., NRRL, USDA, Peoria, Illinois 61604. 247. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, Hwa L. 1967. Traditional fermented foods. Biotechnology and Bioengineering 9(3):275-88. July. [8 ref] Summary: Contents: Summary. Introduction. Fish fermentations. Soybean and peanut fermentations: Koji, shoyu, miso, hamanatto, natto, ontjom, sufu, tempeh. Discussion: Advantages of preparing foods by fermentation. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 248. Nakano, Masahiro. ed. 1967. Hakk shokuhin [Fermented foods]. Tokyo: Korin Shoin. 244 p. See esp. p. 81-101. [Jap] Summary: Includes sections on soymilk yogurt (cultured with Lactobacillus bulgaricus) and nyu fu [fermented tofu]. Chapter 6, Nyu fu notes that this is an ancient food that came from China and Taiwan, but has never become a part of Japanese cuisine. In the United States (and English) it is known as Soybean cheese and Vegetable cheese, while in China it is known as Nyufu as well as Chaw taufu, Sufu, Funyu, etc. 6.1.2Places of production and varieties: Nyufu is made mainly in the middle to southern four coastal provinces of China. These include (pinyin / Wade-Giles): Jejiang / Chekiang (Jap: Sekk), Jiangsu / Kiangsu (Jap: Kso), Fujian / Fukien (Jap: Fukken), Guangdong / Kwangtung (Jap: Kanton). A lot of Nyufu is also made in Taiwan, which is located off the coast of Fujian province. Since nyufu has been produced for a long time over a vast area, there are many varieties. A study conducted in the 1920s found the varieties shown in chart 6.1 in the Shanghai market (Shanghai is in Jiangsu province near the mouth of the Yangtze River). (1) Pickled without mold on the tofu. (i) Jianning-dofu: Drain then dry the tofu, add salt, and pickle in jiang or the residue / dregs left after making soy sauce (ii) Doufuru: Drain then dry the tofu. Sprinkle it with salt then pickle it in koji. (2) Culture mold on small cubes of tofu until a fragrant white mycelium surrounds each cube, then pickle. (iii) Jiangrufu: Pickle in jiang or the residue / dregs left after making soy sauce. (iv). Honjiang rufu [red jiang fermented tofu]: Pickle in a mixture of red rice / angkak (a red koji made by growing Monascus mold on rice) and the residue / dregs left after making soy sauce. (v) Zaorufu: Pickle is sake lees. (vi) Hongrufu: Pickle in red sake lees. (vii) Jiujia rufu: Pickle in white sake / daku-shu, like unrened sake (doburoku). (viii) Xiangrufu (fragrant rufu): Pickle in jiang with olive leaves, fragrant mushrooms, etc. Dr. Masahiro Nakano was born in 1907. Address:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU National Food Research Inst., Tokyo. 249. Nelson, John H.; Richardson, Gary H. 1967. Molds in avor production. In: Henry J. Peppler, ed. 1967. Microbial Technology. New York: Reinhold Publishing Corp. x + 454 p. See p. 82-106. Summary: Introduction (Mold-ripened cheese was shipped to Rome from southern France a early as 250 A.D. Sufu, or Chinese cheese, is produced on a limited scale in Formosa [Taiwan]. Research has laid the foundations for large-scale production of tempeh, an Indonesian fermented soybean food). Mold-ripened cheese: Background (This type of cheese was rst made in France during the Roman era. The name Roquefort rst appeared in the year 1070. Roquefort is a mold-ripened cheese made from the milk of female sheep {ewes}. The trade association of Roquefort makers is the Socit de Roquefort manufacturers), species utilized for avor production, characteristics of blue cheese avor, production of mold-ripened cheese, a typical blue cheese manufacturing process. Production of blue cheese avor by submerged culture techniques: Preparation of inoculum, avor development, process modications. There are many cheese varieties in which typical avor development is principally dependent upon the internal and/or external growth of mold. Blue (Bleu, Blue-veined), Gorgonzola, Stilton, Wensleydale, Gammelost, Nu-World, Camembert, Neufchatel, Mycella, Niva and Brie are produced in many nations... But Roquefort is made only in France. Note: Roquefort (sometimes spelled Rochefort in English) together with Bleu dAuvergne, Stilton and Gorgonzola is one of the worlds best-known blue cheeses. Though similar cheeses are produced elsewhere, European law dictates that only those cheeses aged in the natural Combalou caves of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon may bear the name Roquefort, as it is a recognised geographical indication, or has a protected designation of origin. In 1411 Charles VI granted a monopoly for the ripening of the cheese to the people of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon as they had been doing for centuries. In 1925, the cheese was the recipient of Frances rst Appellation dOrigine Contrle when regulations controlling its production and naming were rst dened. In 1961, in a landmark ruling that removed imitation, the Tribunal de Grande Instance at Millau decreed that although the method for the manufacture of the cheese could be followed across the south of France, only those whose ripening occurred in the natural caves of Mont Combalou in Roquefort-sur-Soulzon were permitted to bear the name Roquefort (Source: Wikipedia at Roquefort, Oct. 2011). Address: Dairyland Food Laboratories, Waukesha, Wisconsin.
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250. Olson, Harvey Stuart. 1967. Olsons Orient guide [3rd ed.]. Philadelphia, Pennsylvania: Lippincott. 1008 p. Illust. (by Cy Ferring). Maps. 20 cm. 1st ed., 1962 [1963]. * Summary: Page 692: One can eat squid, lotus roots, roasted sparrows (head, claws and all), raw lobster, embryonic eggs on a stick, cuttlesh painted with soy sauce, blowsh, mud eel, mock turtle, fermented bean curd, bamboo shoots, and quails eggs... 251. Oo, Shu. 1967. Shi Ryky zatsuroku [Miscellaneous reports of the messengers to Ryukyu]. In: Koza Tekisuto Sakuhoshi Roku-shu [Collected Reports to the Chinese Emperor Made by the Messengers to Ryukyu, Lecture Texts]. Compiled by Kadena Sotoku. Published by Kyodoshi Kenkyu-kai. No. 4, p. 23. [Jap]* 252. Peppler, Henry J. 1967. Microbial technology. New York, NY: Reinhold Publishing Corp. x + 454 p. Illust. 24 cm. Revised ed. 1979. 2 vols. Summary: Chapter 3, Lactobacillus acidophilus cultures (by Arnold B. Storrs and Robert M. Stern, of Great Lakes Biochemical Co., Milwaukee, Wisconsin) notes that Lactobacillus acidophilus is known to retain its viability through the digestive tract and thus affords a means of implantation in the lower intestine. A brief review of the literature shows that it has been reported to bring benecial results in about 70-80% of the gastrointestinal conditions that involve intestinal ora. It is essentially a normal remedy, which at best can do much good, and at worst can do no harm. By contrast, L. bulgaricus, one of the principal microorganisms used in making yogurt, is usually not able to survive in the digestive tract. Sufu, or Chinese cheese, is fermented from tofu, or soy curd (p. 94). A description of Sufu (Chinese cheese) production appears on pages 99-100. 253. Sung, Betty Lee. 1967. Mountain of gold: the story of the Chinese in America. New York, NY: Macmillan. viii + 341 p. Illust. Map. Index. 22 cm. Reprinted in 1971. * Summary: Page 206: Add seasonings of fermented bean curd, salt, and a little soy sauce. Put in just enough water to keep the food from burning. Lower the ame slightly. Cover the frying pan until the water boils (about two minutes)... About the Chinese in America: their struggle for survival, acceptance, and full participation in American life, from the Gold Rush to the present. 254. Swanepoel, Zacharias. 1967. Hong KongCrossroads of the Orient: a comprehensive survey for enterprising businessmen. Cape Town, South Africa: Nasionale Boekhandel Bpk. [x] + 157 p. Illust. [plates]. 22 cm. * Summary: Page 37: In addition to routine raw materials an impressive array of weird and peculiar merchandise
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU makes up Chinese cuisine Seaweed, abalone, known as perlmoen, bamboo, lotus seeds, sea-slugs, fermented bean curd, crabs eggs, duck, pork, sh, rose petals and chrysanthemum wines, to name but a few, are commonly used. Snake soup and a fat puppy are... 255. Sugano, D. 1968. [Method of cheese production using Neurospora molds]. Japanese Patent 744/68. Jan. 11. [Jap]* 256. Wai, Nganshou. 1968. Chung yang yen chiu yan hua hseh yen chin so Investigation of the various processes used in preparing Chinese cheese by the fermentation of soybean curd with mucor and other fungi. Taipei, Taiwan: Institute of Chemistry, Academica Sinica. 90 p. Jan. Final technical report. USDA PL 480. Project no. UR-A6-(40)-1. On USDA grant no. FG-TA-100. [24 ref. Eng; chi] Summary: This report is quite similar to (but more detailed than) Wais 1964 article titled Soybean cheese. This report may have been published in Chinese as well as in English. Contents: Summary. Detailed report. 1. Introduction. 2. Results: Manufacture of soybean cheese (description of the process), microbiological investigations, analyses (preliminary analysis, coagulation of soybean protein by calcium ion, changes of protein components during the preparation of soybean cheese, hydrolysis of lipids during aging of soybean cheese, some characteristics of the fungus Actinomucor elegans), machines of laboratory scale designed for the preparation of soybean milk and soybean curd used as raw materials for soybean cheese. 3. Discussion. 4. Conclusion. 5. Need for additional research. 6. List of publications. Appendixes. A. Historical (History of tofu in China). B. The ancient process (for making 5 types of sufu, and table showing the composition of eachRose sufu, Tsao Sufu, Red sufu, Kwantung sufu, and Yunnan sufu). Appendix C: Report on travel to Hongkong and Kowloon for the collection and investigation of fungi used for the manufacture of soybean cheese, by Shuh-Ming Chang and Shu-Chen Sung, Assistant Research Fellows of Institute of Chemistry, Academia Sinica, Taipei, Taiwan (p. 85-88). From 20-29 June 1964 they visited the following factories and collected mold samples from fresh pehtze: (1) Lo-SanChi Sauce Factory at Sham-Chui-Po, Kowloon. It produces 3 types of soybean cheese ([fermented tofu]; Fusu, Nan-su, and Pepper-Fusu), soy sauce, and other sauced products. A description of the process for making soybean cheese is given. (2) Ming-Jean Sauce Nan-su and Canning Company near Clear Water Bay, Sing-Jea, Kowloon. (3) Chen-MangChi Nan-su Fusu Factory, Chung Ching St., Sai Ying Pung, Hongkong. Sufu is the companys only product. (4) Con-Ho Fusu Factory, Fuk Lo Tsun Road, Kowloon. (5) Kowloon Sauce Company, Queens Central Road. It makes sufu, soy sauce, and sauced products. (6) Chu-Rong Sauce Factory at Kam Tin, Sing-Jea. (7) Liao-Mar-Chi Fusu Factory, Shanghai St., Kowloon. It is located inside a market and sells
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tofu and soybean milk at the same time. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms Fusu or Nan-su to refer to fermented tofu. Summary: Four fungi suitable for making fermented tofu were isolated: Actinomucor elegans, Mucor hiemalis, Mucor silvaticus, and Mucor subtilissimus. Although each fungus can be used for the fermentation, Actinomucor elegans is the best one. An improved method for the preparation of sufu was devised. It is described. Four different solutions (containing Kaoliang wine or ethyl alcohol, plus salt) were developed. The pehtze (freshly grown fungi on cubes of rm tofu) can be preserved in these solutions for more than one year. The various enzymes and their activities were studied.
Photos (photomicrographs) show: (1) Columella of Actinomucor elegans. Magnication 700x. (2) Sporangia of Actinomucor elegans. Magnication 180x. (3) Head of Actinomucor elegans. Magnication 70x. (4) Columella of Mucor hiemalis No. 28. Magnication 700x. (5) Sporangium of Mucor hiemalis No. 28. Magnication 700x. (6) Head of Mucor hiemalis No. 28. Magnication 70x. (7) Columella of Mucor silvaticus 508. Magnication 700x. (8) Sporangium of Mucor silvaticus 508. Magnication 700x.
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(9) Head of Mucor silvaticus 508. Magnication 700x. (10) Sporangiophores and sporangia of Mucor subtilissimus. Magnication 60x. (11) Sporangium of Mucor subtilissimus. Magnication 700x. (12) Columella of Mucor subtilissimus. Magnication 700x. (13) Spores of Mucor subtilissimus. Magnication 700x. The cheese fungi used in Hongkong and Kowloon have been isolated and investigated. The morphological mhotomicrographs (Figs. 14-17) show that the fungus is the same strain of Actinomucor elegans as that used in Taiwan. (14) Sporangiophores and sporangia. Magnication 180x. (15) Sporangiophores and sporangia. Magnication 180x. (16) Columella. Magnication 700x. (17) Sporangium. Magnication 700x. Address: Principal Investigator, Research Fellow and Director, Inst. of Chemistry, Academia Sinica, Taiwan. 257. Agricultural Research.1968. From P.L. 480 research... Better sufu. 17(6):6. Nov. Summary: N.S. Wai of the Academy of Science, Taiwan, found that the key to making sufu without a beany avor is to ferment with a pure culture of the fungus Actinomucor elegans. Using the production methods tested and modied by Wai, ARS [USDAs Agricultural Research Service] microbiologist C.W. Hesseltine says acceptable Western avors can easily be incorporated into the soy cheese during the last manufacturing step, the brining process, by adding essences such as garlic, wine, or pepper. Photos show: Skewered, molded tofu cubes. A nished cube of sufu sliced in half. 258. Chicago Daily Defender.1968. Consumer tips. Dec. 14. p. 26. Summary: Sufu is a Chinese soybean cheese. The snafu, or problem was developing a fool-proof method of making good sufu without undesirable off avors. Professor Nganshou S. Wai of Taiwan did just that, working under a grant from the USDA.
259. Claiborne, Craig. 1968. The banquet began with 4 kinds of eel. New York Times. Dec. 21. p. 42. Summary: Taipei, TaiwanChinese cooking is now enjoying its greatest prestige in the history of the West. Yet it is ironic that when Americans think of Chinese cookery, they rarely think of Taipei or Taiwan. When the instructor at a Chinese cooking class at the local Y.M.C.A. used tofu, the common bean curd ingredient so frequent in Chinese cooking, a knowledgeable and welloriented young American housewife told the story of how one of the military wives remarked: You cant even buy that here; at least we cant nd it in the P.X. Note: P.X. stands for post exchange, a store operated by the Army and Air Force Exchange Service on US Army posts. Claiborne also describes a traditional Shanghai restaurant, the Tung Sheng Lou, at 29-4 Jong Hwa Rd. in Taipei. They serve various unique dishes including bean curd with 1,000-year-old eggs... Crab dipped into an excellent sauce of soy, vinegar and ginger. Followed... by an extraordinary and wonderfully inventive dish of fresh pork cooked with fermented bean curd and fresh spinach. 260. Adams, Ben; Lapin, Nora. 1968. San Francisco: An informal guide. 3rd revised ed. New York, NY: Hill and Wang. xvi + 236 p. Illust. (by Charles Mattox). 21 cm. * Summary: Page 89: An unpretentious Chinese eating house with regular dinners and all the tried-and-true Chinatown dishes. But you can also get here some delicious and unusual specialtiesChinese sausage, salted vegetable with pork, and Chinese red cheese and pork. 261. Borgstrom, Georg. 1968. Principles of food science: Food microbiology and biochemistry (Vol. 2). New York, NY: Macmillan. xiv + 473 p. Index. 26 cm. [9 ref] Summary: In Chapter 4, Fermentation, is a section titled soybeans (p. 110-12) which discusses: Toofu or teou-fu, miso, sufu, natto, tempeh, taotjo and ketjap (shoyu / soy sauce). Frozen tofu (kori tofu, or koya dofu) is tofu that has been frozen for several weeks and dried. Aburage is fresh tofu dried in deep fat. Namage is fresh tofu that has been surface-fried. In Chapter 10, Trends in food utilization, is a section titled Soybean (p. 297-301) which discusses: Soybean products and fermented products (These foods are all rather unknown among Western peoples, although they are eaten by millions of people and constitute some of the most common foods on earth. Yet some typical oriental soy foods, such as tofu and tempeh, are nding acceptance in the West. One soy product that is widely used in most parts of the world is soy sauce. Soy our and soy grits were rst made commercially in the USA in the early 1930s. Milk made from the soybean is important in China {see Vol. I, Chap.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 15}. Fermented products include taotjo, soy sauce or ketjap). Soybean protein, including soybean oil and defatted soybean oil meal (In 1961, 9.5 million tons of soybean oil meal was used in the USA, mainly for animal foods, with special grades used for food and industrial products, such as isolated soybean protein. Puried proteins extracted from dehulled and defatted meal, when toasted, are used in Civil Defense emergency rations and by the international organization Meals for Millions. Some 90% of the processed soybean oil in the USA now goes into food uses. Soybean oil is now the most important ingredient in oleomargarine {see Fig. 10.1}. About one-third of the soybeans moved off the farm are exported; Japan is our biggest customer {taking about 57%} followed by Western Europe {27%}, Canada {8%} and Israel {5%}). Soybean uses (Despite its nutritive value, the soybean is not looked upon with favor in many areas for two main reasons: it does not soften well during cooking and it is difcult to digest. Many other legumes share these problems, but they are generally require less cooking. When soy our is used, alone or with cereal ours, the drawbacks almost vanish. Soybean milk is not comparable to animal milk or human milk except in protein content. And it usually has an unpleasant, bitter taste, but this can be removed at list cost by bulk processing. When soybean curd is made in the typical way, many nutritious components are lost, yet it is easy to digest. Soy sauce can be used only as a condiment because of its high salt content. Germinated soybeans make an excellent vegetable, which is rich in vitamin C). Table 10-1 (p. 300) shows utilization of soybean oil (in millions of pounds) (1947-49 to 1967). The columns are: Shortening (the largest use and steadily increasing), margarine, cooking, salad and other edible oils (No. 2), total for food uses, total nonfood uses. Toasted soy protein (Made by General Mills, starting in Belmont, Iowa, and named Hi-Pro and Protein Plus. The Belmont plant has been running at capacity to supply for American Civil Defense stockpiling of toasted soy protein). MPF (Multi-Purpose Food) made by a joint venture between General Mills and the Meals for Millions foundation. Gelsoy (the rst vegetable protein found to have gelling properties). Promine (an edible soy protein). Fibrotein (soy protein spun into laments). Soybean oil (The initial purpose of the U.S. soybean crushing industry was to obtain oil. The residual meal was considered virtually useless). Chapter 13, titled The world food issue, is about world hunger, which is an ever-present specter for 2.3 billion people of the present world population of 3.4 billion. These people are concentrated largely in warm parts of the globe. Also discusses protein malnutrition (the main problem) and the need for more animal protein. North America has an animal protein intake nine times that of the Far East. A section on Plant milks (p. 428-29), which are made from pulses and cereals, includes a subsection titled Soybeans
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which begins: Soybeans form the basis of the most widely used and successful plant milks in China, Hong Kong, Indonesia, and the Philippines. Such milk has recently become available in Europe and the United States, primarily for clinical purposesfor children allergic to the proteins in cows milk. Notes: Many references, divided into English and nonEnglish, books and papers, are given at the end of each chapter. Address: Michigan State Univ. 262. David-Prez, Enriqueta. comp. and ed. 1968. Recipes of the Philippines. Philippines: Zone Printing Co. xiv + 170 p. Plus 8 leaves of unnumbered plates. Illust (some color). 23 cm. * Summary: Mentions tokua [tofu, also spelled tokwa] as an ingredient in Lumpia. The glossary mentions tajure (brine fermented tofu, also called tahuri), tausi (soy nuggets), and tokua. 263. Hahn, Emily. 1968. The cooking of China. New York, NY: Time-Life Books. 206 p. Illust. (many color photos). Index. 28 cm. Series: Foods of the World. Summary: Another superb work in this superlative series from the editors of Time-Life Books. This book is about cooking in China, where the author lived (in Shanghai), before the 1949 Communist revolution. Contents: Introduction: The cooking of the worlds oldest civilization. 1. An ancient and honorable art. 2. Chinese cooking in your own kitchen. 3. Secrets of savor and spice. A reverence for good food. 5. Oriental staff of life. 6. Gentle teas and strong spirits. 7. Feasts for festivals. 8. A cuisine for all continents. China, the worlds oldest existing civilization, has the worlds most ancient cuisineas well as one that is both great and profound (p. 6). When the Red Guards of Chinas Cultural Revolution appeared in the 1960s, they attacked every symbol of what they regarded as bourgeois culture. Among the targets in Peking were the citys ne restaurants. In the process they destroyed much of Chinas culinary heritagebut only inside of China (p. 7). An article by Peggy Durdin in the New York Times was titled Maos great crime against cuisine (p. 184). Chinese food is, of course, about life, but it is also about health, and it can resonate on numerous symbolic levels (p. 7). The southern provinces of China, Fukien, Kwantung, Yunnan, and Kwangsi, enjoy tropical temperatures year round and more than 80 inches of rain. Here rice is the main crop. Yet China is a mountainous country, with 60% of its land at elevation 6,500 feet or higher; only 11% of its land can be cultivated (compared with 80% in the USA) (p. 10). Fukien, a coastal province to the south, makes the best soy sauce in China, and stewing is called red cooking because of the color imparted by the soy sauce (p. 16, 42). Vegetable oil is very important in China because the
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Chinese rarely use butter (p. 29). For protein the Chinese depend heavily on the soybean, which has for this reason been called the cow of the East. Soybean oil is used for cooking. Soybean milk is a good substitute for cows milk. And doctors, even Western doctorsprescribe it for babies who cannot get mothers milk and are allergic to cows milk [sic]. From soymilk one can make bean curd, an exceptionally high-protein food known in China as the meat without bones. Bean curd is made by curdling soybean milk with gypsum, then pressing the curds into pieces about 3 inches square by inch thick. The thickened curd skin [sic, yuba] is a food by itself, with a more concentrated avor. Fermented bean curd [fermented tofu] tastes much like cheese. Both soy and mung-bean sprouts are used in China, In one form or another the soybean can be found in dishes eaten at every meal (p. 29). A two-page color photo spread and legend (p. 61-63) shows (numbered) basic Chinese ingredients, incl. 13. Fresh bean curd. 14. Dried bean-curd skin [yuba]. Buddhist monks and nuns in China are strict vegetarians; special foods that simulate meat have been developed for them. These include vegetarian duck made from crisp beancurd skin, colored and shaped to look like the birds esh and chicken roll in hoisin sauce, the chicken made of soft soybean curd (p. 64, 67, 70). A full-page color photo and legend (p. 74-75) shows (numbered) Chinese sauces and condiments, incl. 1. Hoisin sauce. 3. Soy sauce. 8. Yellow-bean paste, or thick bean sauce. 11. Fermented black beans. 14. Red bean [azuki] paste. Among the best known of Chinese seasonings is soy sauce, which was mentioned in several Confucian classics as early as the Fifth Century B.C. [sic]. Other condiments made from soybeans are bean paste (for preserving and avoring meat) and hoisin sauce (widely served with Peking duck). It is said that the best grades of soy sauce can take as much as six to seven years of aging to reach perfection, and that the making of superb soy sauce requires as much art in its preparation as good French wines (p. 74-75, 77). The controversy over M.S.G. is discussed. A really god Chinese chef considers it a questionable shortcut for giving taste to second-rate foodstuffs, but most Chinese cooks admit that its use in certain dishes is perfectly valid (p. 77-78). The emperor Chien Lung (1735-1796), 4th ruler in the Manchu [Qing] dynasty, wrote an Ode to Tea (p. 91). In China there is an intimate association between eating and health (p. 91). Recipes: Steamed bass with fermented black beans Tou-shih cheng hsien yu (with 2 teaspoons fermented black beans, soy sauce, Chinese rice wine, and shredded fresh ginger root, p. 104). Most festivals (each with a feast) in China are based on events of agricultural importance; the two most important are New Years and the Moon Festival (p. 155, 162, 164-65). A Peking duck is brought to the exact degree of plumpness
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and tenderness through force-feeding, then roasted slowly, suspended by hooks, in a mud-lined oven until the thick, fat skin becomes golden in color. This crackled skin is the choice part of the dish. The skin, a piece of the meat, a spring onion, and thick, sweet hoisin are served enfolded in a thin wheat-our pancake (p. 158, 15). The history of chop suey (unknown in China) and chow mein (had an honorable origin in China) are discussed (p. 178-79). The rst wave of Chinese to America came with the gold rush and transcontinental railway. Most were laborers from southern China. The rst Chinatown in the USA was established in San Francisco (1850s), followed by New York City (Manhattan, 1870s). Most early American Chinese restaurants reected their social status, serving inexpensive foods. In the early 20th century, as Chinas Republican revolution was gaining momentum, a second wave arrived to study. These young people, also mostly from southern China, came from far more prosperous backgrounds than those in the 1st wave and they wanted better food. Restaurants were started or upgraded to suit their tastes. Thus, it was the southern school of cookery that rst spread over the world outside China (p. 179). China has three great regional cuisines: Cantonese (southern), northern, and Szechuan (p. 179). Six photos show The Americanization of the fortune cookie: Assembly line at a factory in New York Citys Chinatown. A twopage spread shows many of the fortunes found in fortune cookies (p. 195-97). A guide to ingredients in Chinese cooking (p. 19899) includes: Bean curd, fresh: Square. Bean-curd skin [yuba] (Thin stiff sheets of dried bean curd. Sold by weight... {5 to 6 sheets weigh about 1 ounce}). Bean sprouts (Young sprouts of the mung bean). Black beans, fermented (Strongly avored, preserved black soybeans. Sold in cans or plastic bags). Brown bean sauce (Thick sauce made from fermented yellow beans [huang dou = yellow soybeans], our and salt. Sold in cans of 1 pound or more). Hoisin sauce (Sweet, brownish-red sauce made from soybeans, our, sugar, water, spices, garlic and chili for use in cooking. Sold in 1-pound cans and up). Oyster sauce (Thick brown sauce with a rich avor, made from oysters, soy sauce and brine). Red bean paste (Thick, sweet paste made from red soybeans [sic, azuki beans]). Salted eggs and thousand-year eggs. Sesame seeds and sesame seed oil. Soy sauce (Pungent, salty, brown liquid made from fermented soybeans, wheat, yeast [sic, mold] and salt). Vegetable steak (A vegetarian food that looks like a small beefsteak but is made from wheat gluten. Sold in cans). Address: Author, lives in England with her husband. 264. Hahn, Emily. 1968. Recipes: The cooking of China. New York, NY: Time-Life Books. 119 p. Illust. (many color photos). Index. 23 cm. Series: Foods of the World. Revised
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU ed. 1973, 1980, 1981. [1 ref] Summary: A recipe for Shua-yang-jouMongolian re pot (rinsed lamb) (p. 28-29) calls for 1 tablespoon fermented red bean curd, mashed. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term red bean curd or that uses the term fermented red bean curd (or fermented red beancurd) to refer to red fermented tofu. The excellent Guide to ingredients used in Chinese cooking (p. 115-19) is identical to that found in the larger companion volume, The Cooking of China (Hahn 1968, p. 198-99). Address: Author, lives in England with her husband. 265. Lee, Elinor. 1969. Elinor Lees notebook: Sufu on rye? Washington Post, Times Herald. Jan. 30. p. D1. Summary: If someone should ask you about Sufu dont be caught short. Tell them Sufu comes from Tofu, and the Chinese have known about it for centuries. And you can tell them that Sufu may soon be available in avors such as garlic, wine, or vinegar. Sufu [fermented tofu] is a soybean cheese made from Tofu, a soybean curd. The Chinese have been making it for centuries. Recently a Taiwanese scientist has found a way to make Sufu without a beany avor. And a USDA scientist says Western avors can be added. 266. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1969. Oriental fermented foods made from soybeans. USDA Agricultural Research Service. ARS-74-50. p. 45-52. Feb. Proceedings of the Ninth Dry Bean Research Conference. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Koji. Shoyu or soy sauce. Miso. Hamanatto. Sufu. Tempeh. Natto. Idli. Conclusion. Flow sheets show the basic process used in making most of these foods. A photo taken in Aug. 1948 shows a miso plant in Tokyo, Japan, with large wooden vats in the foreground. A part of this plant was destroyed during World War II. Address: Northern Utilization Research and Development Div., USDA, Peoria, Illinois. 267. Soybean Digest.1969. New method of making Chinese sufu. Feb. p. 54. Summary: The Chinese have been making a soybean cheese called sufu for centuries; but it remained for U.S. and Taiwan scientists to develop a foolproof method of making good sufu with no undesirable off avors, reports Dr. Clifford W. Hesseltine, a U.S. Department of Agriculture microbiologist. Research on sufu was conducted by Prof. Nganshou S. Wai of the Academy of Science, Taiwan, where he worked under a P.L. 480 grant from USDAs Agricultural Research Service. Dr. Hesseltine, Northern Utilization Research Laboratory, Peoria, Illinois, was the ARS sponsoring scientist. Wai found that the key to making good sufu without a beany avor is to ferment with a pure culture of the fungus
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Actinomucor elegans... Dr. Hesseltine says ARS scientists can easily incorporate acceptable Western avors into the soy cheese. 268. Stanton, W.R.; Wallbridge, A. 1969. Fermented food processes. Process Biochemistry 4(4):45-51. April. [34 ref] Summary: Fermentation of starch tubers such as cassava with fungal organisms such as Rhizopus can result in a food product with signicant increases in protein content. The cassava dough is inoculated then extruded (like noodles) into fermentation trays. Table 1 shows many different vegetable cheeses and related fermented foods. The rst such food mentioned is minchin, made from wheat [gluten] in China. The microorganisms used are Paecilomyces, Aspergillus, Cladosporium, Fusarium, Syncephelastrum, Penicillium, and Trichothecium species. This is an anaerobic fermentation of wheat gluten for 2-3 weeks at room temperature during the winter, with 10% salt added. The product is cut into strips and used as a condiment. Eaten as a meat substitute, it is rich in protein, nutritious, and healthy. Fermented soy products include sufu, tempeh, meitauza, Hamanatto, shoyu, miso, and natto. Address: 1. PhD, Head, Microbiology Section, Tropical Products Inst., London, England; 2. Parke Davis Co. 269. Shojun, Matsuyama Oji (Danshaku). 1969. Tfu raisan [In praise of tofu]. In: Matsuyama Oji Shojun Iko. Yamazato Eikichi henshu [Collected Writings of Matsuyama Oji Shojun. Edited by Eikichi Yamazato]. Published by Shojun Iko Kanko-kai. See p. 7-13. Aug. 10. Originally published June 1938 in Gekkan Ryukyu (Ryukyu Monthly). [Jap] 270. Agricultural Research.1969. Hakko tofu: new food from soybeans. 18(3):14. Sept. Summary: Hakko tofu is a Japanese term meaning fermented soybean curd. This food, to be made from American-grown soybeans, was developed through a Public Law 480 project in Japan sponsored by the U.S. Agricultural Research Service (ARS). The ARS sponsoring scientist, Dr. Clifford W. Hesseltine, says this food contains high quality protein, based on a 21-day rat growth study; the PER is 2.7, compared with 2.2 for regular tofu. The principal Japanese investigator, Dr. Tetsujiro Obara (at the Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Tokyo Univ. of Education) found that a 1:420 ratio of calcium sulfate to soymilk added at 158F gave the best product. Traditionally the enzymes from a mold were used to ripen the tofu, but the investigators experimented with commercial enzymes. Papain gave the best individual performance, but a mixture of papain, pronase, and bioprase gave optimum results for faster ripening and improved texture. For bacterial starters that lower the PH, the best results were obtained from a blend of half Streptococcus
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU cremoris and half S. lactis. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Hakko tofu to refer to fermented tofu. 271. Soybean Digest.1969. Scientists develop new soy food, hakko tofu. Nov. p. 33. Summary: This is a summary of the following article: Agricultural Research. 1969. Hakko tofu: new food from soybeans. 18(3):14. Sept. 272. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1969. Fermented soybean foods. In: Proceedings of the Third International Conference on Global Impacts of Applied Microbiology. See p. 403-20. Held 7-14 Dec. 1969 at Bombay, India. [11 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction: The three fundamental drives of man (food, shelter, reproduction), benets of soybean fermentation. Sufu. Hamanatto. Natto. Tempeh. Magou (now made in South Africa on a modern industrial scale from fermented corn and soybeans). Address: Northern Utilization Research and Development Div., USDA, Peoria, Illinois. 273. Kwon, Shin Han. 1969. Soybeans and soybean products in Vietnam. Saigon: Republic of Vietnam: Ministry of Land Reform and Development of Agriculture and Fisheries, Agricultural Research Inst. (Saigon). 113 p. 28 cm. [60 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Map of South Vietnam showing all provinces and their names. Preface, by the author. 1. Introduction: History of soybean, production and trade in the world and in Vietnam, utilization of soybean (uses, nutritive value of the soybean). 2. Botany of the soybean plant: Seed, stem and pubescence, leaves, ower parts, root and nodule bacteria, genetics. 3. Ecological requirement: Germination, temperature, rainfall, day length, soil. 4. Cultivation and storage: Planting (land preparation, depth of seeding, methods of seeding, rate of seeding, time of seeding, rotation, erosion), fertilizer (manure, nodule bacteria, nitrogen, phosphorus, calcium, potash, molybdenum, application), insects (maggot y, soybean insects found in Vietnam, control), diseases (root disease, foliage disease, seed disease), weed control, harvesting and threshing (harvesting time, methods of harvesting, drying). 5. Variety improvement: Aims of improvement (high yielding variety, disease resistance, insect resistance, day length, varieties tolerant to unfavorable soil conditions, seed size, seed color, oil and protein content in seed, palatability), introduction method, pure line selection method, breeding method (making the cross, pedigree method, bulk method), regional trials, variety purication and multiplication (breeders seed, foundation seed, stock seed, extension seed, maintenance). 6. Seed certication standard. 7. Bibliography. The author thanks for their help: Dr. Thai-Cong-Tung,
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Director of the Agriculture Research Institute, and Mr. Nguyen-Huu-Quyen, Manager of Eakmat Experiment Station. The history of soybean in Vietnam is meager, but the references by Loureiro (1790) and Rumphius (1747) mentioned the cultivation of soybean in Malaysia and Vietnam. Harmand (1877) collected wild soybean (Glycine laotica) in the Hue and Bassac areas, and the herbariums [herbarium specimens] are still available at the Agricultural Research Institute, Ministry of Agriculture, Vietnam. Since the history of Vietnam is closely related to that of China, it seems likely that the soybean has been cultivated for many centuries in what is today Vietnam (p. 1). In Vietnam, the soybean is still not a very familiar crop to the majority of farmers. Although the acreage has gradually increased since 1958, production had not yet reached 10,000 tons by 1967. According to the Agricultural Statistics Yearbook of Vietnam, in 1966 in South Vietnam, total soybean acreage was 6,610 hectares and production was 7,585 metric tons, or 1.148 tonnes/ha (p. 7). The main soybean producing provinces are all in the southern half of South Vietnam: Long-Khanh (40% of total South Vietnamese acreage), An-Giang (20.4%), Chau-Doc, Kien-Phong, and Binh-Dinh (5%). In 1963 some 1,440 tones of soybeans were imported and in 1966 some 100 tonnes were exported (p. 6). Table 4 shows an estimate of the costs and returns per hectare of growing soybeans at the Eakmat Agricultural Experiment Station in Ban-Me-Thuot in 1968. The net income or prot from one hectare was about VN$26,000, which is larger than for any other eld crops, including: cassava (VN$22,766), mung beans ($20,267), sweet potatoes ($19,269), upland rice ($6,828), corn ($6,569), and peanuts (VN$5,100). Uses: In Vietnam, the soybean is not commonly used in daily food, but a number of foods such as soysauce, tuong [a soft kind of miso resembling Chinese chiang in consistency, and sold in crocks], bean curd, vermicelli, soymilk, soybean wine, chao [fermented tofu, sold in bottles], soybean oil, [soy] bean sprouts, and green pods [green vegetable soybeans] are available in the market and they are gradually becoming popular among Vietnamese. Note: This is the 2nd earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word chao to refer to fermented tofu. Photos (p. 11-12) show: (3) Bean sprouts and cooked beans with tomato sauce. (4) A shop that sells soybean products in a Saigon market. Soybean paste [tuong] is in big chars, chao [fermented tofu] is in bottles in front, and bean curds [tofu] are in the front left corner. (5) A Vietnamese girl frying bean curds in the market. (6) Bottles with labels showing various kinds of soy sauces made in Vietnam. The highest yielding soybean varieties in Vietnam are presently Palmetto and E-32. In trials, they yield about 1 tonne per hectare. Address: FAO Agricultural Ofcer. Phone:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Saigon 91.746. 274. Obara, Tetsujiro; Kobayashi, M.K.; Kobayashi, T.; Watanabe, Y.; Ohata, M.; Tanaka, M. 1969. Basic investigations on the development of foods from enzymatically treated soybean protein concentrates to increase the use of United States soybeans in Japan. Tokyo: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Faculty of Agriculture, Tokyo University of Education. 97 p. Undated. Final report, P.L. 480. Project no. UR-A11-(40)-26. Grant no. FG-Ja-122. Report period: 13 Oct. 196512 Oct. 1968. Summarized in Soybean Digest, May 1969, p. 77. [12 ref. Eng] Summary: The group prepared a cheese-like soy protein food by enzymatic treatment. They began by extracting soymilk. The enzymes papain, Bioprase, and Pronase were tested. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Tokyo Univ. of Education, Komaba 2-19-1, Meguro-ku, Tokyo, Japan. 275. Centre de Documentation Internationale des Industries Utilisatrices de Produits Agricoles (CDIUPA). 1970--. IALINE (Industries Agro-Alimentaires en Ligne) base de donnes [IALINE (Food and Agricultural Industries OnLine) database]. 1, avenue des Olympiades91300 Massy, France. [271542 ref. Fre] Summary: This is the worlds best database for Frenchlanguage publications related to food and nutrition. It rst became available for use in Jan. 1970, and that is also the date of the earliest record in the database. It is produced by the Center for International Documentation on Industrial Utilization of Agricultural Products (CDIUPA), founded in 1965 by the French Ministry of Agriculture. CDIUPA is administered by APRIA (Association pour la Promotion Industrie Agricole), which is a member of the International Commission of Agricultural and Food Industries. The current contents of the database is published in a monthly journal titled Industries Agro-Alimentaires: Bibliographie Internationale, which began under that title in Jan. 1983. It was preceded by Bibliographie Internationale des Industries Agro-Alimentaires. Bulletin Bibliographique (published from Jan. 1967 to Dec. 1982). In the monthly journal, the citations are grouped under 6 broad headings: 1. General (with 8 subcategories). 2. Agro-food industries (industries agroalimentaires; with 17 subcategories; Many documents on soyfoods are cited in subcategory N titled Protines dorigine animale, vgtale, microbiologique, algues et levures aliments). 3. Fermentation industries (with 6 subcategories). 4. Food microbiology. 5. Food toxicology. 6. Utilization and adding value to agricultural and foodindustry by-products. Biotechnology. The journal contains 3 indexes: Subject index. Index of sources (periodicals [with journal names written out in full], acts of congress, books, theses). Author index. Information related to soyfoods is likely to be found under the following headings in the subject index:
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Aspergillus oryzae; Farine de soja (incl. soy our, and roasted soy our or kinako); Huile de soja (soy oil); Koji; Lait de soja (soymilk); Miso; Nato (incl. natto); Produit base de soja (incl. dawa-dawa, kinema, soy cheese [western style], soy nuggets/Hamanatto, soynuts, soy ice cream, soy yogurt, thua-nao, yuba), Protine de soja (soy protein products); Protine de soja, Produit extrud (extruded soy products); Protines dorigine animale, vgtale; Sauce de soja (soy sauce); Soja (incl. green vegetable soybeans); Soja, germe (soy sprouts); Sufu (fermented tofu); Tempeh; Tofu. Address: Massy, France. Phone: (1) 69.20.97.38. 276. Gray, William D. 1970. The use of fungi as food and in food processing. CRC Critical Reviews in Food Technology 1(2):225-329. May. (Chemical Rubber Co. Press, Cleveland, Ohio). [348* ref] Summary: The section titled Oriental fungus-processed foods (p. 263) discusses: Broad differences between fermentation processes in the Occident and Orient, miso, shoyu, Hamanatto, tempeh, ang-khak, ontjom, sufu, meitauza, ketjap, katsuobushi, and other fungus-fermented foods: Chee-fan (a type of sufu), fermented minchin (wheat gluten), fermented soybean prepared from black soybeans in China (soy nuggets), tao-cho, tao-si, and taotjo (the last 3 foods made from soybeans). Address: Dep. of Botany, Southern Illinois Univ., Carbondale, Illinois. 277. Wang, Hwa L.; Hesseltine, Clifford W. 1970. Sufu and lao-chao. J. of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 18(4):57275. July/Aug. [8 ref] Summary: Sufu is fermented tofu. Synonyms include tosufu, fu-su, fu-ru [furu], toe-fu-ru [tofu-ru, doufu-ru], toufu-ru, teou-fu-ru, fu-ju, fu-yu [fuyu], and foo-yue. Describes in detail how to make sufu on a small scale. Figure 1, Flowsheet for the production of sufu, shows the three basic steps: (1) Preparation of soybean milk and soybean curd. (2) Molding. (3) Brining and aging. When red rice and soy mash are added, the nal product is known as red sufu or hon-fang. When fermented rice mash or a large amount of rice wine are added to the brine, the nal product has a more alcoholic fragrance and is known as tsui-fang or tsue-fan, which means drunk sufu. The addition of hot pepper to the brine would make hot sufu. (3) Changes in soluble nitrogen and free amino acids in fermented tofu during aging; both increase rapidly during the rst 10 days of the fermentation, then the rate of increase slows. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms hon-fang or tsuifang or drunk sufu or hot sufu to refer to fermented tofu. Lao-chao is a fermented rice product. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois.
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rhythmically bouncing pole), by bicycle, etc. He sometimes sells in periodic markets, so common in developing countries. Page 345: These hawkers may be selling home-grown vegetables, sh, bean curd, ice cream, bamboo baskets... The hawker of prepared foods is often at once his own producer, distributor, and, of course, salesman. Bean curd milk (touchiang) [soymilk] and fried sticks of twisted dough (yu-tiao) offer breakfast fare (Figure 4). Later in the day stinky bean curd (chou tou-fu) is peddled as a late afternoon snack. (Figure 5). Punctuality characterizes the daily arrival of the seller of any of these light foods... Figure 5, a black-and-white photo, shows a man frying chou tou-fu at a pushcart stand. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word stinky or the term stinky bean curd to refer a special type of fermented tofu. Address: Asst. Prof. of Geography, State University College, New Paltz, New York 12561. 279. Saint, Wint F. 1970. Soy foodsWest. Soybean Digest. Nov. p. 32-33. Summary: With such a large number of people of oriental ancestry living along the Pacic Coast of the United States and in the islands of Hawaiiour 50th stateplus the interest in oriental cooking by occidental people, it is hardly surprising that edible soybeans play a prominent part in the ingredients of many oriental dishes and prepared food products in the West. But very few people have ever heard of a food that has been a staple in the oriental diet for centuriesbean cake. Bean cake, which includes tofu and Chinese cheese, is an excellent food, high in protein, and containing all the essential amino acids. Being a soft-curd product, similar in consistency to our cottage cheese, fresh bean cake alone has no distinctive avor. In fact, it is quite bland. However, it very quickly picks up the avor of foods with which it is cooked... Thus it may be considered an extender or food supplement. Briey describes how to make fresh bean cake on a commercial scale, with calcium sulphate used to coagulate the soy milk (also called bean milk). The residue [okara] usually ends up at the local hog ranch. The curded soy milk is scooped into stainless steel trays, or forms, where any excess water is removed. The slabs are then put through another machine which, by means of wires or knives, cuts the cake into small cubes or rectangular pieces which are packed into jars or seethrough plastic trays with a very small amount of water. Printed heat-sealing cello tops are afxed along the top edges of the trays. The tofu-type bean cake is best when fresh, although if kept in water it will hold its freshness for several days in the refrigerator.
278. Knapp, Ronald G. 1970. Itinerant merchants in TaiWan [Taiwan]. Journal of Geography (The) 69(6):344-47. Sept. See p. 345. [5 ref] Summary: The itinerant merchant or peddler (tiaofan) sells his wares from place to place, moving on foot (sometimes toting his goods in two baskets hung from a
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU During the early morning business hours the freshly packed product is delivered to the colorful oriental food shops and restaurants or western supermarkets of the Pacic Coast and Hawaii. A 1969 news release stated that this product accounted for close to $3 million is sales by about 20 U.S. manufacturers and that only slightly over 50% of the consumers were of Oriental descent. Fermented-type cake: The fermented-type bean cake Chinese cheeseis also a soy-milk-based product, but its manufacture is somewhat more complicated, lengthier, and closely guarded than the fresh type. When the fermentation processwhich is a matter of days rather than hourshas been completed,... the small yellow cubes are packed neatly in a solution of water plus alcohol, in hermetically sealed glass jars, to insure perfect keeping qualities. One large local producer [probably Quong Hop & Co.] is distributing his product in practically all the 50 states of the U.S. as well as shipping into Canada, South America, and even to Hong Kong! Of the fermented-type Chinese cheese, the most widely known, and used, is the yellow or Foo Yee, the taste of which can be compared to a mellow Camembert cheese, while the red, or Nam Yee, is more highly seasoned or spicy. The yellow is called for in many Chinese recipes. A jar will be found in most any Chinese-American kitchen, used mainly as a seasoning, as a cheese substitute, or a topping for macaroni or vegetable dishes. The red typeNam Yeebeing of a stronger, spicier avoris usually used as a condiment or a seasoning for avoring roasts, steaks, or with fowl. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Nam Yee to refer to fermented tofu. Oriental recipes calling for the use of bean cake are varied and most interesting. Very simply: bean cake can be eaten as is with just a bit of sugar sprinkled over it, or dipped in soy sauce, to give it avor. Or, it may be diced and scrambled with eggs for a breakfast dish, or prepared with porkknown as Tofu Yukor with beef. A portrait photo shows W.F. Saint. Address: W.W. Saint Co., San Francisco. 280. Wang, H.L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1970. Oriental fermented foods. Paper presented at Part I, Seminar on Protein Food Promotion. 5 p. Typed manuscript. Held Nov. 22 to Dec. 1, 1970 at Inst. of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart Univ., Bangkok, Thailand. [13 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Miso. Hamanatto. Sufu. Natto. Tempeh. Nutritional value of fermented foods. Absence of aatoxin in fermented food products. A note on page 1 of this manuscript states: To be published in Part I of Seminar on Protein Food Promotion, November 22-December 1, 1970, Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Bangkok, Thailand. This was an invited paper. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois.
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281. Benet, Sula. 1970. Festive recipes and festival menus. New York, NY: Abelard-Schuman. 196 p. 22 cm. [1 ref]* Summary: This cookbook was rst published in 1957 under the title: Festival Menus Round the World, by the same publisher with the same number of pages. Page 39: A recipe calls for 1 tablespoon thick soy sauce. 282. Chang, Wonona W.; Chang, Irving B.; Kutscher, Helene W.; Kutscher, Austin H. 1970. An encyclopedia of Chinese food and cooking. New York, NY: Crown Publishers, Inc. x + 534 p. Edited by Lillian G. Kutscher. Charlotte Adams, Consulting Editor. Illust. Index. 26 cm. International Cookbook Series edition. [52 ref] Summary: This comprehensive work, the result of at least 25 years of collaboration, contains over 1,000 recipes. The 4th printing (March 1977) proclaims prominently: The rst Completely Safe Chinese cookbook compiled in accordance with latest food research without MSG (monosodium glutamate). Following introductory chapters titled Chinese Cuisine: Background, Regional Chinese Cooking, Utensils for Cooking, Serving, and Eating, Cooking Preparations, and Cooking Techniques, there is a detailed Guide to Ingredients (p. 22-57), which describes the following soy-related foods and gives Cantonese / Mandarin pronunciation: beans, black (wu dow / wu do); beans black salted fermented beans (dow si / do shih; used as a condiment or avoring agent [seasoning]. Aroma: fragrant, appetizing); bean cake, fermented (fu yu / fu yu [fermented tofu]); bean curd (dow fu); bean curd, dried (dried bean curd [dried yuba], p. 25, 47tiem jook or fu jook pei / tien chu or fu pi chi); bean curd cheese, red (nam yu / nan yu); bean lling, sweet (dow sa / do sa; made from red [azuki] beans or green / [mung] beans); bean sauce, brown or yellow (mien see jiong); bean sprouts (large, from soybeans) (wong dow gna / huang do ya); hoisin sauce (red seasoning sauce) (hoy sin jiong / hai hsien jiang); soy sauce (dark lo tsow / lao tsou; heavyjiong yow / jiang yu [jiang you]; lightsang tsow / sheng tsou; table soy saucesin tsow / shien tsou) Dark soy sauce has caramel added for coloring. Heavy soy sauce, which has a slightly sweet smell, is also known as black soy. Light soy sauce is the most delicately avored and is light brown in color. Japanese soy sauce, somewhere between the Chinese light and heavy, is preferable to domestic brands but inferior to Chinese brands. Vegetable steak (mien gon / mein jing) Meat substitute made from wheat gluten. Shape: 3-inch square or round patty inch thick. Brown, chewy, and rm. Sold in cans. Photos (black and white, p. 47) show fermented black beans, fresh bean curd, pressed bean curd, bean curd sticks and bean curd sheets [both kinds of yuba, but bean curd sheets on p. 47 are called bean curd, dried], brown bean sauce, and large fresh bean sprouts.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2008) that uses the word dow fu (or dow-fu) to refer to Chinese-style tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2008) that uses the term bean curd sheets or the term fu jook pei or the term fu pi chi or the term tien chu to refer to yuba or to dried yuba. Pages 58-60 contain a Shopping list for Chinese cupboard. Foods are listed alphabetically in English, with the Cantonese term romanized and Chinese character forms. Next come the 1,000 Chinese recipes divided into chapters. One chapter is titled Bean Curd (p. 422-34), which includes Ma Po Dow Fu (p. 433); there are so many recipes for regular tofu (dow fu) in this book that we do not have room to list them all. The many other soy-related recipes are listed in the excellent index. Recipes for bean cake, fermented [fermented tofu] are: Scrambled eggs with fermented bean cake (Fu yu don, Canton, p. 134). Duck with fermented bean cake (Fu yu ta, Adapted, p. 276). Steamed pork with fermented bean cake (Fu yu tsing ju yoke, Canton, p. 292). Stir-fried green beans with fermented bean cake (Fu yu tsang dow, Canton, p. 391). Lettuce and fermented bean cake (Fu yu sang tsoi, Canton, p. 392). Spinach and fermented bean cake (Dow fu bo tsai, General, p. 399). Watercress and fermented bean cake (Fu yu sai yong tsoi, Canton, p. 40). Recipes for black beans, salted [soy nuggets] are: Pork with bitter melon and salted black beans (Fu gwa yoke si, Canton, p. 305). Shrimp with bitter melon and salted black beans (Fu gwa dow si har, Canton, p. 306). Steamed spareribs with salted black beans (Dow si pai gwut, Canton, p. 320). Beef with bitter melon and salted black beans (Fu gwa ngo yoke do si jiong, Canton, p. 340). Black bean sauce (Huk dow tsup, Canton, p. 436; with garlic and ginger. Note 3. This is the earliest separate recipe seen {Nov. 2008} for Black bean sauce). Recipes for bean curd, dried [dried yuba] are: Pigs feet with dried bean curd soup (Ju gyok tiem jook tong, Adapted, p. 113; with 10 sheets dried bean curd. Soak sheets in hot water for 30 minutes. Drain, cut crosswise into pieces 1 inch wide, then add to soup). Spare ribs with dried bean curd soup (Pai gwut shiu tiem jook, Adapted, p. 321). Dried bean curd strips with soy sauce (Hung shu tiem jook, General, p. 424). Vegetarian ham dried bean curd (Sue ho twei dow fu, Shanghai, p. 429; with 20 sheets dried bean curd). Recipes for bean curd skin (or bean curd sheets) [yuba sheets, fresh or dried] are: Red-cooked carp with bean curd skin (Fu pi hung sao yu, Shanghai, p. 158; with bean curd skin to cover carp). Red-cooked carp with bean curd skin Approved ulcer recipe (Hung sao li yu dow fu pi, General, p. 158; with lb. dried bean curd skin {about 20 pieces, 1 by 5 inches}. Soak for 30 minutes in hot water. Drain. Cut into 2-inch squares).
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Recipes for frozen bean curd [frozen tofu]: Frozen bean curd with soybean sprout soup (Dung dow fu dow ya tong, Adapted, p. 90; with 2 cakes frozen bean curd and lb. soy bean sprouts. Defrost frozen bean curd by covering with cold water, letting stand 2 to 4 hours before cooking. Then cut each piece into 10 to 12 thin slices). Spareribs with frozen bean curd (Pai gwut shiu dung dow fu, Adapted, p. 320; with 4 cakes frozen bean curd). Stir-fried frozen bean curd (Tsao dung dow fu, Peking, p. 422; with 6 cakes frozen bean curd. * Wrap 2 to 3 pieces fresh bean curd together in waxed paper, freeze until hard). Recipes for pressed bean curd [pressed tofu]: Pressed bean curd shrimp (Sha tze gahn si, Shanghai, p. 178, with 4 pieces pressed bean curd). Golden strips with pressed bean curd (La jiao tsao san sih, Hupeh, p. 313). Pressed bean curd and celery with stir-fried beef (Dow fu gahn ching tsai ro si, Shanghai, p. 357). Stir-fried pressed bean curd with pork (Dow fu gahn tsao ro si, Shanghai, p. 427). Stir-fried pressed bean curd with chicken (Dow fu gahn tsao gee si, Shanghai, p. 427). Recipes for soybean sprouts [soy sprouts]: Spareribs soybean sprout soup (Pai gu dow ya tong, General, p. 112). Beef shank soybean sprout soup (Wu hwa niu ro hwang dow ya tong, General, p. 112). Braised soybean sprouts (Hung sao hwang do ya, Shanghai, p. 376). Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2008) that uses the term hwang dow ya or the term hwang do ya to refer to soybean sprouts. Address: USA. 283. Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Co. Ltd. 1970. The Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Co. Ltd. 1940-1970. Kowloon, Hong Kong. Annual Report. 17 p. Summarized in Soybean Digest, July 1971, p. 30. [Eng; chi] Summary: Written in both English and Chinese, this important document contains an detailed history of the company, which celebrates its year of founding as 1940. Photos show: (1) K.S. Lo, Chairman. (2) Directors and employees in 1940 outside original Causeway Bay factory. (3) Aberdeen factory, an early photo. (4) Employees in 1950. (5) Employees in 1960. (6) Illustration of Kwun Tong factory opened in 1962. (7) Pepsi Cola bottling line. (8) Vitasoy bottles being capped. (9) Quality control. (10) Loading of trucks by more than 20 fork lift vehicles. (11) A retail outlet and cooler; About 15,000 stores sell Vitasoy in the Colony. (12) More than 100 trucks distribute Vitasoy and Pepsi Cola in Hongkong. (13-14) Vitasoy and Pepsi signs are seen everywhere in Hongkong. (15) The board of directors in 1970. (16) The ve Los instant rice dishes soon to be marketed. (17) Meat dicing machine. Packaged Foods Division capable of processing 8,000 lb of meat/hour. (18) Three Los cheese spreads soon to be marketed. (19) Part of production plantCheese division. (20) Los weaning foodrst product developed by the Extrusion Foods Div.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (21) Packaging machineExtrusion Foods Div. A bar chart shows that annual sales grew from $5.1 million in 1960 to $17.0 million in 1965, to $30.0 million in 1969. The number of employees grew from 352 in 1960 to about 630 in 1970. In 1937 K.S. Lo, the founder, who happened to be on a business visit to Shanghai, attended a lecture by Julian Arnold, then Trade Attache to the United States Embassy in Nanking. The subject was SoybeanThe Cow of China. Lo left inspired to do something about the widespread nutritional diseases then found in Hongkong. He applied to the government for a license to manufacture soymilk in 1938. He received such a discouraging and unfavorable reply from the Sanitary Board that he was forced to give up his plan. However, a year later, Dr. P.S. Selwyn Clarke took over the chair of the Sanitary Board, and day by chance he came across Los application. He telephoned Lo and assured him that he would issue him the necessary license. Lo was overjoyed and immediately went to raise a modest capital of $18,000. He put up a small factory at Causeway Bay and the plant was opened in March 1940 by Sir Man-Kam Lo... Sales remained poor for the rst two years. By the end of 1941, when the Pacic War broke out, the Company was almost on the verge of bankruptcy. The factory was occupied by the Japanese soon after Hongkong fell and Lo left for Free China [Taiwan]. In Sept. 1945 he returned to Hongkong and production was restarted in Nov. of that year. Lo started to market his product as a soft drink through soft drink outlets, instead of like milk. Sales grew rapidly. By 1949 the company had accumulated enough capital to buy a piece of land and build a new factory in Aberdeen. In the meantime the company had also acquired the Greenspot franchise. So in 1950, the Aberdeen factory was opened and used for the bottling of Greenspot while Vitasoy remained at the Causeway Bay factory. In 1952 the bottle was changed to a soft drink bottle that was sterilized. Sales skyrocketed. In 1957 the company gave up the Greenspot franchise and acquired the Pepsi Cola bottling franchise. In 1962 a new 6-story, 300,000 square foot factory was opened in Kowloon. In 1964 the company invented a powdered soymilk. That year Lo was invited to present a paper at the International Symposium on Oilseed Protein Foods in Japan. His concepts caught the attention of UNICEF and FAO, which had been trying to nd ways of increasing protein consumption in developing countries. A joint venture with Monsanto proved unsuccessful and was terminated last year. Monsanto was given a license to manufacture a powdered soymilk concentrate. The company has created three new divisions. The Packaged Foods Division will be introducing in the spring a line of precooked foods which are ready for the table after simply heating. They include Chow Fan, Bar-B-Q Spare Rib, Dim Sum, etc. The Cheese Division will be launching this year 3 types of soymilk-based cheese spreads: Chinese
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Fu-Yu, European Blue Cheese, and English Cheddar. The Extrusion Foods Division is developing a high-protein weaning food, and hopes eventually to branch out into snack foods and meat substitutes. 284. Stobart, Tom. 1970. Herbs, spices, and avorings. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill. 261 p. Illust. (part color). Index. 26 cm. Summary: Also titled: The International Wine and Food Societys guide to herbs, spices, and avorings. For a book published in 1970, this book contains a great deal of original and useful information. Note that the word seasoning(s) does not appear in the title or the index. For many entries, the equivalent word in various European languages is given. In addition, for plants, the botanical name and family are usually given. Contents: Black and white illustrations. Colour plates. Introduction: The history of avourings, the importance of avourings, the origin of this book (I come to this subject as a traveller who has lived in a number of different countries), the scientic basis of avouring, scientic, popular and foreign names, synthetic and harmful avourings, avouring in practice, growing herbs. An alphabet of herbs, spices and avourings (The entries are in alphabetic order). Appendix. Soy related entries: Harveys sauce: One of the old English sauces... In 1870, the courts decided there was no exclusive commercial right to the name Harveys Sauce, as there are recipes for it dating back to at least the 17th century. Though there are many formulae, it is, in general, based on walnut and mushroom ketchupavoured with anchovy, garlic, and often soy sauce and vinegar. It has the appearance of Worcestershire sauce, but is not hot although it does contain some chilli. Soy [sauce]Soya bean: The soy bean is undoubtedly the worlds most important legume. It can be eaten as a fresh bean [green vegetable soybeans], as a dried bean and as soybean our. It is a leading source of cooking oil much used as a substitute for olive oil in Spain. From it one can make a kind of milk [soymilk]. In the East [East Asia], it is also fermented to make various kinds of curd and bean cheese. The soy product which concerns us is soy sauce. It originated in China and is thought to have been brought from China to Japan by a Buddhist priest about A.D. 500. In the West it became well known during the nineteenth century. It is one of the ingredients of Worcestershire sauce and Harveys sauce. Worcestershire sauce: See the original 1970 ed. published in England. Also discusses: Ketchup, M.S.G., oil (The word oil is derived from olive), sesame (incl. tahina. The pure oil is almost without taste or smell and does not easily go rancid in hot countries, which is one reason for its popularity). Address: England.
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285. Product Name: Los Cheese Spreads (Based on Soymilk or Tofu) [Fu Yu, Blue, or Cheddar]. Manufacturers Name: Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Co. Ltd. Manufacturers Address: Kowloon, Hong Kong. Date of Introduction: 1971. New ProductDocumentation: The Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Co. Ltd. 1970. 30th anniversary annual report, 1940-1970. The company has established a new Cheese Division. Just as the company has pioneered in the marketing of Soymilk, it now hopes to introduce Cheese made from Soymilk instead of cows milk. Here again, it has taken the Companys Research Staff years of research before Western types of cheese could be processed from soymilk. This year the Company will be putting onto the market three types of Cheese Spreads: Chinese Fu-Yu, European Blue Cheese and English Cheddar. The reason for marketing these cheese spreads (rather than normal hard cheese) is to gradually introduce cheese to the Chinese population. Cheese in the past has been alien to the Chinese diet. The spreads, eaten with bread, rice or noodles, however, have been well received by a test market. A photo shows jars of the three spreads with labels. Talk with K.S. Lo. 1989. Oct. 6. These products were developed by Frank Lo as a project requested by his father, K.S. Lo. Taste tests were done on the products in Hong Kong, but they were never given on ofcial name or trademark, and were never really marketed commercially. 286. Ainsworth, G.C.; Bisby, Guy Richard. 1971. Ainsworth & Bisbys dictionary of the fungi. 6th ed. Farnham Royal, England: Commonwealth Agricultural Bureaux [for the] Commonwealth Mycological Institute. x + 663 p. Illust. 19 cm. 1st ed., 1943; 5th ed., 1961. [1 ref] Summary: Chinese cheese is mentioned on p. 104 and p. 569 (at Sufu). 287. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1971. Fermented soybean foods. In: Y.M. Freitas and F. Fernandes, eds. 1971. Global Impacts of Applied Microbiology, GIAM III. India: Univ. of Bombay. See p. 403-20. Conference held in 1969 in Bombay, India. [11 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction: Nine advantages of fermenting soybeans. Sufu. Hamanatto. Natto. Tempeh. Magou (from South Africa). In South Africa, an interesting fermented native food (magou) is now made on a modern industrial scale from fermented corn and soybeans. Magou is prepared by the fermentation of coarsely ground white corn meal (maize). Pure cultures of Lactobacillus used in this fermentation were isolated from native magou. The culture, which is not pure, is started in coarse whole wheat our. Then it is used to ferment corn meal for 22-24 hours. The mash
from the fermentation tanks is mixed with defatted soybean meal, sugar, whey, or buttermilk powder and yeast. The soybean meals used contain at least 52 per cent protein. After thorough mixing of all the ingredients, the mix is spray dried. Currently this product sells for about 10 cents a pound in 50 pound bags... Magou is used principally for feeding miners and other workers employed in heavy industry. It is well adapted to being taken into the mines and reconstituted at the point of consumption. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 288. Pederson, Carl Severin. 1971. Microbiology of food fermentations. Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. vi + 283 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. * Summary: Page 266: Fermented soybean curd was observed to enhance avor and zest to a limited and monotonous diet. Soybeans contain a very high amount of glutamic acid; in fact, 18% of the amino acid of soybean protein consists of this acid. Address: Cornell Univ. and New York State Agric. Exp. Station. 289. Sung, Betty Lee. 1971. The story of the Chinese in America. New York, NY: Collier Books. viii + 341 p. Illust. Map. Index. 21 cm. Originally published in 1967 under the title: Mountain of Gold: the Story of the Chinese in America. * Summary: Page 206: Add seasonings of fermented bean curd, salt, and a little soy sauce. Put in just enough water to keep the food from burning. Lower the ame slightly. Cover the frying pan until the water boils (about two minutes)... 290. Watanabe, Tokuji; Ebine, Hideo; Ohta, Teruo. eds. 1971. Daizu shokuhin [Soyfoods]. Tokyo: Korin Shoin. 271 p. Illust. Index. 22 cm. [134 ref. Jap; eng+] Summary: This is the best book published to date on soyfoods in Japan; however it is written in Japanese. Contents: 1. Classications and varieties of soybeans (p. 1). 2. Physical characteristics of soybeans (p. 5). 3. Chemical characteristics of soybeans (p. 9). 4. Standards and methods of examining soybeans (p. 47). 5. Special characteristics and problems of using soybeans for food (p. 53). 6. Current status of the soybean industry in Japan (p. 63). 7. Soymilk and various types of tofu: Aburage (deepfried tofu pouches), ganmodoki (deep-fried tofu burgers), kri-dofu (dried frozen tofu), soymilk, and yuba (p. 75). 8. Fermented soyfoods: Natto (p. 123-40), shoyu (p. 141-67), miso (p. 168-95), fermented tofu (rufu) (p. 196-202). 9. Other soyfoods: Kinako (p. 203-04), soy sprouts or moyashi (p. 206-08), tempeh or tenpe (p. 209-17). 10. Quality and usage of defatted soybeans (dasshi daizu) (p. 219). 11. New food uses of soybeans and especially defatted soybeans (incl. 70% soy protein powder, soy protein curds, soy protein isolate, surimi gel, spun soy protein bers) (p. 229). 12. Advice regarding supplying protein from organizations such as the United Nations and FAO (p. 257).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU A 47-page translation of portions of this book (parts of Chapter 6 and all of Chapter 7) by Akiko Aoyagi and Chapters 8.1 and 8.2 by Alfred Birnbaum are available at Soyfoods Center. Tokuji Watanabe was born in 1917. Hideo Ebine was born in 1921. Teruo Ota was born in 1926. Address: National Food Research Inst., Tokyo. 291. Huang, Su-Huei. ed. 1972. Chinese cuisine: Wei-Chuan cooking book. Taipei, Taiwan: School of Home Economics, Wei-Chuan Foods Corp. 181 p. Illust. No index. 22 cm. [Eng] Summary: On each page is one recipe and a half-page color photo of the prepared dish. The title of the recipe is written in English in large bold letters and is also given in (to the right) in small Chinese characters, just above the number of servings. Most of the recipes call for to teaspoon of MSG; many call for soy sauce. On unnumbered pages at the front of the book are (1) A two-page color photo, on a light blue background, of 39 special ingredients, each numbered, with the numbers and names across the bottom of the pages. These include: 9. nori. 24. pickled plum (umeboshi). 25. bean curd noodle [pressed tofu noodles]. 30. bean curd wrapper (pronounced bai ye) [pressed tofu sheets]. 35. bean curd skin [yuba in large, semicircular thin sheets]. (2) Description of some other special ingredients: Hot bean paste (pronounced la jiao jiang). This is made with red peppers [and soy beans] and has a very hot taste. Sweet bean paste (tien mien jiang). This is made with steamed, fermented bread (black color). Note 1. Why is this called Sweet bean paste? What kind of beans are used to make it? Soy bean paste (do ban jiang). This is made with fermented soy beans (black color). Fermented black bean (do shr). This is black [soy] beans which are steamed, then marinated in soy sauce or salt. Pickled bean curd [fermented tofu] (do fu ru or Chinese cheese). This is bean curd which is dried and then pickled; there are many different kinds with different seasonings. (3) Helpful hints: In all recipes you may substitute Worcestershire sauce for dark vinegar. In Chapter 3, Pork and beef, soy related recipes are: Shredded pork with sweet soy bean paste (with 1.3 tablespoons sweet soy bean paste, p. 39). Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2009) that contains the term sweet soy bean paste. See also p. 104 below. Pork ribs with dried black fermented beans (p. 41). Pork in preserved bean sauce (p. 42). In Chapter 4, Sea Food, is a recipe for Steamed carp with fermented black beans (p. 64). In Chapter 5, titled Bean curd and eggs (p. 102-15) are recipes for: Stewed bean curd (with 1 squares bean curd), Assorted dish with hot sauce (with tablespoon hot soy bean paste, 1 tablespoons sweet soy bean paste, p. 104),
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Bean curd stuffed with minced pork, Ma-Pos fried bean curd with pork, Bean curd leaf rolls with minced pork (With bean curd wrappers), Beancurd noodles with celery salad (with 4 oz. {storebought} bean curd noodles), Vegetarian chicken (with 16 bean curd sheets). Also: Green peppers stuffed with chopped meat (p. 122, with 1 tablespoon fermented black beans, crushed). Bitter gourd stuffed with fermented black beans (p. 126, with 2 oz. fermented black beans). Eggplant with bean curd skin (p. 133, with 1 sheet beancurd skin and 1 sheet nori [sea vegetable]). Bean curd in earthen pot (p. 142, with 3 squares bean curd). Address: 19 West Nanking Road, Taipei, Taiwan. 292. Wang, Hwa L.; Ellis, J.J.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1972. Antibacterial activity produced by molds commonly used in Oriental food fermentations. Mycologia 64(1):218-21. Jan/ Feb. [6 ref] Summary: Antibiotics (such as penicillin) have long been made from fungal cultures. Tempeh made with Rhizopus oligosporus (strain NRRL 2710) was found to have natural antibacterial activity. That means that the tempeh mold is capable of synthesizing an antibiotic. It is well established that antibiotics minimize infections. Conclusion: The nding of antibacterial compounds produced by molds commonly used in Oriental food fermentations, therefore, offers a better understanding of the true value of fermented foods. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 293. Menezes, Tobias J.B. de. 1972. Alimentos e molhos obtidos por fermentacao da soja e de cereais [Foods and sauces obtained by fermentation of soybeans and cereal grains]. Boletim do Instituto de Tecnologia de Alimentos (Campinas, Sao Paulo, Brazil) No. 31. p. 49-63. Sept. [24 ref. Por] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Shoyu (molho de soja). Miso. Natto. Tempeh. Sufu. For each food, there is an introduction and a description of the process for making that food, sometimes with a owchart. Note: This is the earliest Portuguese-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that mentions fermented tofu, which it calls sufu. Address: Brazil. 294. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1972. Fermented soybean food products. In: A.K. Smith and S.J. Circle, eds. 1972. Soybeans: Chemistry and Technology. Westport, CT: AVI Publishing Co. xiii + 470 p. See p. 389-419. Chap. 11. [54 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Koji. Miso: Preparation of koji, treatment of soybeans (mixing, fermentation). Shoyu: Incl. chemical shoyu. Natto. Hamanatto. Tempeh. Sufu [fermented tofu]. New soybean products made by fermentation: Cheese-type products, fermented soybean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU milk, an ontjom-type product. 10. Future of fermented soybean foods. Tables: (1) Demand for whole soybeans in Japan (19641967) to make miso, shoyu, and natto. In 1967, only 4.5% of the soybeans used to make miso were used in the form of defatted soybeans, whereas the same year 91.1% of the soybeans used to make shoyu were defatted. The total demand in 1967 (in 1,000 metric tons) was miso 177, shoyu 169, and natto 47. (2) Chemical composition of soybean foods: Miso (salty light, salty light, soybean miso), natto, soybeans. (3) Annual production of miso (1956-1967). Production of 530,078 tons in 1956 decreased to a low of 453,956 tons in 1962, then rose to 520,510 tons in 1967. (4) Composition of miso in relation to time of fermentation and ratio of soybeans:rice:salt for three types of miso: White miso, light-yellow salty miso, and yellow-red salty miso. (5) Average composition of shoyu made from whole soybeans and defatted soybean meal. Illustrations (owsheets): (1) Process for making red miso. (2) Process for manufacture of shoyu. (3) Process for making hamanatto. (4) Tempeh fermentation on a laboratory scale. (5) Preparation of sufu. (6) Preparation of soybean cheese. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 295. Hewitt, Jean. 1972. The New York Times heritage cook book. New York, NY: Putnam. xviii + 804 p. Illust. (full page color photos; line drawings by Ray Skibinski). Index. 25 cm. Summary: This monumental American cookbook contains more than 2,100 recipes organized by region, from the Northeast to the Northwest. Soy related recipes: Teriyaki appetizerHawaii (with cup soy sauce and 2 pounds round steak, cut into strips,... marinated and skewered, p. 660). Tempura, with soy mustard sauceHawaii (with 1/3 cup soy sauce, preferably imported, p. 663). Miso-shiru (Bean paste soup)Northern California (with 2 tablespoons miso paste {fermented bean curd paste [sic]}, and 1 fresh tofu {fresh bean curd}, cubed, p. 667). Rubys teriyakiNorthern California (with the sauce composed of 2 cups imported soy sauce, mirin, 1 cup sugar, grated fresh gingerroot, catchup, monosodium glutamate and crushed garlic, p. 695). Note: The sauce can be used with beef (4 pounds boneless top sirloin) or chicken (2-3 lb). Rubys sukiyakiNorthern California (with 2 cakes fresh tofu {fresh bean curd, see note} and cup imported soy sauce, p. 696-97). Note: Tofu is available in oriental food stores. Fried chicken in teriyaki sauce (with 2 cup imported soy sauce and 1 cup sugar, p. 702-03). A brief biography and portrait photo of Jean Hewitt appear on the inside rear dust jacket. Note: Many recipes call for optional monosodium glutamate. Address: Food reporter and home economist, The New York Times.
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296. Iha, Fuyu; Higaonna, Kanjun; Yokoyama, Shigena. comp. 1972. Ryky shiry ssho [Ryukyu historical material series]. Tokyo: Tokyo Bijutsu. See vol. 1, p. 106. [Jap]* 297. Jensen, J. Stoumann. 1972. Baelgplanten. Frugtens anvendelse og potentiel i menneskelig ernaering. En analyserende og diskuterende oversigt [Leguminous plants. Use of their seeds and its potential for human nutrition. An overview, with analysis and discussion]. Unpublished manuscript. Lyngby, Denmark. 110 p. Forwarded to DANIDA Sept. 1974. Unpublished manuscript. [23 ref. Dan] Summary: Under East Asian soyfoods, mentions soy sauce, miso, natto, sufu, and tempeh. Address: Dep. of Biochemistry & Nutrition, Technical Univ. of Denmark, Lyngby, Denmark. 298. Li, Ling-ai. 1972. Life is for a long time: a Chinese Hawaiian memoir. New York, NY: Hastings House. v + 343 p. 22 cm. * Summary: Page 44: Everyone knew of your mother down on the street near the river where the stores were, where the Chinese bought food from their homelandsalted eggs and pickled cabbage, dried sh and rice, eels and bitter melon, fermented bean curd, watermelon,... 299. Smith, Allan K.; Circle, Sidney J. eds. 1972. Soybeans: Chemistry and technology. Vol. 1. Proteins. Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. xi + 470 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [500+ ref] Summary: One of the best and most comprehensive reviews on the subject, with extensive information on modern soy protein products. Each of the 12 chapters is written by an expert on the subject. Volume 2 was never published. Address: 1. PhD, Oilseeds protein consultant, New Orleans, Louisiana; 2. PhD, Director, Protein Research, W.L. Clayton Research Center, Anderson Clayton Foods, Richardson, Texas. 300. Cowan, J.C. 1973. Soybeans: Their uses are many and expanding all the time. Crops and Soils Magazine 25(5):1014. Feb. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Processing needed. Oil products. Lecithin. Protein products. Texturized protein products. Foreign and fermented products. Future prospects. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 301. Lundstedt, Erik; Lo, Frank Yau-Yee. Assignors to The Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Company, Ltd. 1973. Preparation of cheese from soybean milk. U.S. Patent 3,743,516. July 3. 3 p. Application led 1 Dec. 1970. [8 ref] Summary: A new curd from soya bean milk which is
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU heat-stable, suitable for the preparation of a meltable cheese by the hot-pack process, is prepared by adding 1-10% of fat and 0.5-5.0% of skim milk solids to soya bean milk, pasteurizing, homogenizing, forming the curd, preferably by lactic acid bacteria, at a temperature below 120F, heating to a temperature between 140 and 170F, and draining until the moisture content of the curd is between 60 and 80%. A recipe for Fu Yu soya cheese spread is given. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2007) that uses the term soya cheese or Fu Yu soya cheese to refer to a Western-style soy cheese. Address: 1. South Chatham, Massachusetts; 2. HKSBP, Kwun Tong, Kowloon. 302. Harper, Anne. comp. 1973. Soybean processing and utilization: A partially annotated bibliography. Jakarta, Indonesia: Lembaga Ilmu Pengetahuan Indonesia (Indonesian Inst. of Sciences), Jl. Tjhik Ditiro 43, Jakarta. vi + 56 leaves. 30 cm. [440 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Preface (by Prof. Sarwono Prawirohardjo, Chairman, ASEAN Permanent Committee on Science and Technology). Introduction: The soybean (Glycine max), soybean meal and oil, food uses, industrial uses, scope of the bibliography (excludes references to non-alimentary utilisation of soybeans and to references to alimentary utilisation where the harvested plant has not undergone processing by either fermentation or oil extraction), terminology of soybean processing (soybean meal, soy ours and grits, solvent extraction, miscella, desolventizer-toaster, defatted soy our, low-fat soy our, high-fat soy our, full-fat soy our, lecithinated soy our, soy protein concentrates, soy milk, Saridele, yuba, soybean curd [tofu], aburage, koritofu [kori-dofu, dried frozen tofu], soy protein isolate, protein bre products {spun, spinnerettes}, extrusion-expansion products, fermentation products {ontjom, Neurospora sitophila, soysauce, shoyu, Aspergillus oryzae, koji, moromi, tamari, koikuchi, natto, miso, tempeh, Rhizopus oligosporus, soybean cheese, sufu, Mucor sufu}, Zygosaccharomyces). General (p. 1). Fermentation products (p. 2-16). Soybean oil, meal, and protein (p. 17-42). Nutrition (p. 43-56). Note: 500 copies were printed. Address: Indonesia. 303. Ilany (Feigenbaum), J. 1973. Soybean food for today and tomorrow. Gordian (Hamburg) 73(10):390-91. Oct.; 73(11):428-30. Nov.; 73(12):464-65. Dec. [21 ref. Eng; ger] Summary: This is a short review of what is chiey known at present of this wonderful bean, which only a few years ago, constituted a strange and exotic food. Contents: Introduction. Composition and nutritional value. Green soybeans. Sprouted soybeans. Soybean ours. Isolated proteins. Soy-food products of the Far East: Kinako, soymilk, yuba, tofu or curdsoycheese, aburage, natto, Hamanatto, tempeh, miso, shoyu or soy sauce. Soybean oil.
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Lecithin. Concerning tofu: Tofu made in the regular way is called Fresh Tofu. It does not keep long, even under refrigeration, unless it is further processed. For this purpose it may be canned, frozen, fried, smoked, or fermented. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2011) that contains the term soycheese; it uses this term to refer to regular tofu. 304. Hess, John L. 1973. De gustuibus: When is a shark not a shark? When its jumbo scallop. New York Times. Nov. 20. p. 34. Summary: Mail bag: An importer in Jersey City, New Jersey [on the west bank of the Hudson River, across from lower Manhattan, New York], asks if we have ever found a Chinese cheese. As far as we know, there is none, except among those border nomad people who raise horses and cattle. There is, however, fermented soybean curd, available in cans and jars, which makes a wonderful, rank cheesy dressing for vegetables and pork. 305. Cowan, J.C. 1973. Processing and products [soybeans]. In: B.E. Caldwell, ed. 1973. Soybeans: Improvement, Production, and Uses. Madison, Wisconsin: American Society of Agronomy. xviii + 681 p. See p. 619-64. Chap. 20. [52 ref] Summary: Contents. 1. Introduction. 2. Processing for oil and meal: Preparation of akes, solvents, extraction, desolventizer-toaster, degumming. 3. Conversion to edible oil products: Rening, bleaching, deodorization, hydrogenation. 4. Edible fat products: Salad and cooking oils, status of avor stability, shortenings and margarine oils, lecithin. 5. Essential fatty acids and atherosclerosis. 6. Industrial uses of oil. 7. Meal for livestock and poultry: Nutritional aspects, factors affecting use of meals. 8. Edible protein products: Soy our, concentrates and isolates, textured protein products (textured soy our or textured soy protein bers made into meat analogues resembling chicken, bacon, etc.). 9. Fermented and specialty foods: Tofu, soybean milk (an intermediate step in the manufacture of tofu), miso, shoyu (tamari, light-colored shoyu), sufu, tempeh, hamanatto, and natto. Soybeans ow through a crushing plant as follows: First, they are cracked to release or loosen the hull and to break the cotyledon into about 4 parts. Shakers and aspirators separate the hull from the cracked cotyledons and rollers ake them. Puried petroleum hydrocarbons known as hexane extract the oil from the akes and the solvent is recovered. Moistened akes are heated to inactivate the antinutritional factors and are converted to feeds for livestock and poultry. A small proportion of the akes goes to a wide variety of soybean protein products including our, isolates, and concentrates.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Tables show: (1) Utilization of soybean in U.S. in million pounds, every 5 years from Oct. 1933 to 1970 (Kromer 1970). (2) Use of soybean meal in the USA for feeding livestock and poultry (million tons). In 1969, the estimated amounts used were as follows: Cattle 3.43. Hogs 1.69. Other livestock 1.73. Total livestock: 6.85. Broilers 3.07. Hens and pullets 1.28. Other poultry 1.10. Total poultry 5.45. Total livestock + poultry 12.30. Note that cattle are the single biggest users. (3) Bleaching soybean oil (process, % clay and type, change in Lovibond color rating). (4) Effect of bleaching, citric acid, and light exposure on soybean salad oil. (5) Specications for soybean oil. (6) Effect of linolenate content on avor of soybean oil at elevated temperatures. (7) Composition of certain edible oil products from soybean oil and related products (salad oil, hydrogenated-winterized soybean salad oil, hydrogenated soybean oil liquid shortening, plastic shortening types I and II). (8) Changes in iron and copper content of soybean oil in commercial rening. (9) Properties of all-purpose and highstability shortenings from all-hydrogenated vegetable oils and blends of animal fat and/or vegetable oil (iodine value, melting point, % linoleic acid, solid fat index {% solid at temperatures indicated}). (10) Typical analyses for mellorine and cookie and confectioners fat. (11) Analytical data for typical margarine oils low and high in polyunsaturates (iodine value, melting point, % linoleic acid, solid fat index {% solid at temperatures indicated}). (12) NSPAtentative lecithin specications (NSPA, 1969-1970). (13) Composition of soybean lecithins. (14). Approximate composition of soybeans and meal products (whole bean, cotyledon, hull, hypocotyl, meal {cakeextruded, akessolvent extracted, dehulled akesextracted, mill feedseparated hulls, mill runseparated hulls}). (15) Amino acid analysis of soybean meal (44% protein and 49% protein {dehulled}) and corn. (16) Amino acid analysis of blends of soy our with cereals and milk (Inglett 1968; Corn soy milk {CSM}, Millet soy milk, Wheat soy milk, etc.). (17) Partial formulas for young swine and boiler rations in percent total rations. (18) Partial formulas for dairy feeds (14% protein). A supplement to forage or roughage. (19) Soybean grits and ourscreensize. (20) Composition of soy our. (21) Composition of 4 types of soy protein concentrates. (22) Uses for high-protein soy products (protein 70 [concentrates] and protein 90 [isolates]). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 2004) that uses the term protein 90 to refer to a soy protein isolate. (23) Amino acid analysis of fractions derived from dehulled extracted akes (Rackis et. 1961, 1970). (24) Effect of cooking in salt solutions on texture of structured granules. (25) Composition and use (1,000 metric tons in 1964 and 1967) of soybeans for traditional foods in Japan (Use of whole soybeans in 1967 in 1,000 metric tons: Miso 169. Shoyu 15. Natto 47. Tofu 329. Total 642. Use of defatted akes or grits in 1967 in 1,000 metric tons: Miso 8. Shoyu 154. Natto 0. Tofu 77. Total 284).
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Figures show: (1) Flowchart: Processing of soybeans to oil and meal using hexane extraction. (2) Illustration: A modern soybean processing facility (aerial view, Central Soya, Inc.). (3) Schematic diagram / owchart: Manufacture of edible soybean oil products (salad oil, salad and cooking oil, shortenings, margarines, liquid shortening). (4) Illustration: A continuous deodorizer for soybean oil. (5) Graph: Effect of prolonged storage at 100F on avor score of hydrogenated-winterized soybean oil or soybean salad oil (nitrogen packed, air packed). (6) Illustration: Continuous chilling and working equipment for margarine production (Votator Div., Chemetron Corp.). (7) Flow diagram; Conversion of emulsions of margarine oils and ripened milk to conventional stick, whipped stick, and tub margarines (Votator Div.) (8) Chemical structure of prostaglandin-E2, a fatty acid with hormone activity. (9) Diagram: Vapordesolventizer- deodorizer for soybean akes (Blaw-Knox Co.). (10) Flowchart and diagram: Operations with extrudercooker. (11) Flow diagram: Manufacture of protein 70 [soy protein concentrate]. (12) Schematic diagram: Manufacture of soy protein isolate (Protein 90). (13) Photo: Chickensimulated soy protein meat in three forms (Swift Edible Oil Co.). (14) Photo: Protein tow containing 16,000 monolaments spread apart to show its brous nature; other tows in background (General Mills, Inc.). Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 306. David-Perez, Enriqueta. comp. and ed. 1973. Recipes of the Philippines. Philippines: Published by the author. Printed by Cacho Hermanos, Inc., Corner Pines, and Union Streets, Mandaluyong, Metro Manila, Philippines. xiv + 170 p. Plus 8 leaves of unnumbered plates. Undated. Illust. (some color). 22 cm. Summary: The title page of this book states that the 19th printing was 1973 (Copyright by the author), but no initial date of publication is given. The rear cover states: Reprinted and exclusively distributed by: National Bookstore Inc. Other editions include 1953 (at Library of Congress), 1954, 1960, 1965, and 1968. Contents: Acknowledgement. Introduction. Reminder, Fiesta fare. Everyday dishes. Sweets and desserts. Breakfast and merienda. Pickles and relishes. Refreshments. Glossary. Contains 19 black-and-white photos. Soy-related recipes include: Baguio onion with tokua [rm tofu] (p. 28). Bagus en tocho1 (with tajure, p. 32). Bagus en tocho2 (with tajure, tausi, and tokua). Bagus in soy sauce (p. 33). Bawang guisado (with tokua, cubed and fried, p. 33). Beef steak (with soy sauce, p. 34). Misu-tomato sauce (with miso, p. 74). Paksiw (Pork with soy sauce, p. 78). Paksiw na pata (with soy sauce, p. 78). Pancit luglug (with tokua, p. 80). Pork tapa (with toyo soy sauce, p. 88). Taguba (pork with soy sauce, p. 102). The glossary denes the following soy-related terms: Misupaste made of fermented rice and soy beans. Tajure
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU fermented soy beans, caked. Tausifermented soy beans. Tokuasoy bean curd. Toyosoy sauce. Address: Philippines. 307. Hunter, Beatrice Trum. 1973. Fermented foods and beverages. New Canaan, Connecticut: Keats Publishing Co. 116 p. Index. 18 cm. [38 ref] Summary: In the chapter titled Soybeans (p. 31-49), the author discusses tofu (and how to make it at home with or without fermentation), meitauza (fermented okara), hakko tofu (a newly developed high protein food; fermented soybean curd), sufu (Vietnamese call it Chao), shoyu, miso, ketjap (thick Indonesian soy sauce [probably ketjap manis]), tempeh, Hamanatto, natto, Tao-cho from Malaysia, and Taosi from the Philippines. Note: The author has collected her information (both correct and incorrect) for a number of sources, which she does not cite directly, although she does have a bibliography. 308. Ito, Kazuo. 1973. Issei: A history of Japanese immigrants in North America. Translated by Shinichiro Nakamura and Jean S. Gerard. Seattle, Washington: Executive Committee for Publication of Issei, c/o Japanese Community Service, 1414 S. Weller St., Seattle, WA 98144. xxviii + 1016 p. Illust. Index of personal names only. 24 cm. Translation of Hyakunen Sakura. [100* ref. Eng] Summary: This massive book is basically a history of rst-generation Japanese immigrants to Pacic Northwest (especially Washington, Oregon, and British Columbia), focusing on the great struggles and hardships they met, written from the viewpoint of individual Japanese who tell their stories (often in the rst person), and compiled by a Japanese journalist. The book was rst published in Japanese. Access to the wealth of information it contains is crippled by the lack of a subject index. So if one were looking for information about tofu, miso, or soyfoods, one would have to read the entire book. The index of personal names is well done. At the very front of this book are very interesting maps of the old Japanese districts of the following cities: Seattle, Tacoma, and Spokane, Washington; Portland, Oregon; Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. Unfortunately, none of the maps are dated. The name and location of each Japanese organization or business is shown clearly in English. In the part on Japanese exclusion, the section titled The smell of race [very interesting] (p. 227-28) states: Exclusionists especially point out that Japanese favorite foods and condiments, such as miso, soy sauce, radishes and pickles, are intolerable [in smell]... The neighboring whites complained loudly that they just could not stand the smell of cooking soy sauce... A Japanese smells like miso, and whites in general exude faint waves of the odor of butter and cheese. The smell of their underarm perspiration is really strong. In the part on Railroads, the section titled Life of
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Yoshiichi Tanaka notes that he worked with a gang of young Japanese bachelors who were all trying to save money. For breakfast they had miso soup, which was delicious, so everyone ate more, which caused food expenses to rise. So we skimped on miso and merely added salt for avor. For lunch they sometimes had sh cooked in soy sauce, or a half cake of tofu (bean curd cheese), or radish, carrots and beef boiled hard with soy,... In the Japanese restaurant in Seattle we could ll up on miso soup, rice and pickles for only 10... The part on Alaska (p. 355) is mostly about work in the canneries: We shipped Japanese foods such as rice, soy sauce, miso, dried kelp [kombu] for soup base, dried sea slugs,... fu (a light cake made of wheat gluten), dried seaweed,... Page 359 mentions soy sauce and miso soup with salmon. The part on Sawmills states (p. 402): The food was Japaneserst class rice imported from Japan,... and koyadofu (a dish made from bean curd). For breakfast they served miso soup with vermicelli in it. Lunch was rice, and sh and vegetables boiled hard with soy sauce. On Sundays they had red bean soup with mochi (rice cake). Under Supplementary food (p. 408-09): The meals were mostly Japanese. Breakfast: miso soup... Dinner: Sukiyaki. Some people bought things from Seattle stores like bottles of pickled bean curd (funyu), salted sea urchin, fermented soy beans [natto], salted plums, or seaweed preserved by boiling in soy sauce (nori no tsukudani),... In 1907 we spent $5 to $6 per month for food, and it was poor. For breakfast we ate miso soup and rice;... for lunch rice cooked together with aburage (fried bean curd)... I bought canned salmon and poured soy sauce and sugar on it for dinner. For Saturday dinner we had sukiyaki. Page 410 Breakfast was tofu in miso soup with pickles and rice. Page 411: Deer meat sukiyaki. In the part on Agriculture, we read that Japanese immigrants to American sometimes enjoyed Japanese soyfoods. In about 1910, in Fife, a farming community near Seattle, in about 1910, Gunji Fujimoto had miso soup and pickles for breakfast (p. 440). In about 1916, in Hood River (northern Oregon), Henry Nakamura wrote that Japanese people could get foods from Japan, including fried bean curd (p. 499-500). There they also enjoyed miso soup for breakfast, cooked red beans [azuki] spread on bread for lunch, and rice, pickles, and dried radish strips cooked with soy sauce for dinner (p. 503). In the early 1920s in Oregon, breakfast typically consisted of rice, miso soup, and pickled cucumbers (Shoemon Nakamura, p. 512). The part on Mines in 1917 (p. 557): Dinner was Japanese style with stews, beef and tofu cooked together with soy, sh, miso soup, rice and so on. Page 568: The meals at Endo camp were notorious. Breakfast was miso soup and pickles with rice. When the population increased, the amount of soup was increased
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU by adding water, not miso. The contents of the soup were always wakame (seaweed, all year long... Mr. Endo laid in a huge stock of left-over seaweed and fried dried bean curd, and miso, soy sauce and pickles). Part 20, On the Streets, states that The old Japanese towns in Seattle, Tacoma, Portland, and Vancouver (Canada) can hardly be traced today. The author has tried to reconstruct maps of these towns in roughly the period of the 1920s, but not in any specic year (p. 779-80). In Nov. 1908 Masanao Hanihara, Secretary of the Japanese Embassy, issued a report on his investigations of living conditions of Japanese in the western USA (p. 791). He found the Japanese still lived at the level of immigrant laborers; the conditions in their communities were extremely low and chaotic. The Japanese in these areas hardly mix with white residents, while sometimes they approach or mix with Chinese. There are many ill effects from clique-ishness. The majority of Japanese workers lack knowledge of English, so whenever they make contracts they sign papers blindly (p. 795-96). Hanihara estimated the Japanese population of various states as follows: Washington 9,000 to 10,000, Oregon 3,500 to 4,500, Wyoming 1,000 to 1,500, Idaho 1,000 to 1,500, Montana 1,000, and Alaska 1,000. The largest Japanese community in the region was in Seattle (about 4,000 Japanese). Shinzaburo Ban of Portland is almost the top among successful Japanese on the Pacic Coast. His business, S. Ban Co., headquartered in Portland (where he arrived in 1891), acts mainly as a contract agency for Japanese laborersa sort of employment agency, and his store supplies sake, miso, soy sauce and other such Japanese foods and small items to the laborers (p. 789-93; see portrait photo p. 792). A sidebar (p. 793, by Raisuke Tamura, Seattle) notes that However long they lived in the United States, Japanese had to have Japanese food... Around 1906 I imported from Japan vegetables such as lotus root, Japanese radish [daikon], gobo (burdock), zenmai (fern), abura-age [deep-fried tofu pouches], nigari (bittern, a tofu coagulant), tsukuneimo, yamaimo, and so on, in hundred-pound baskets, and sold them to sawmills and railroad camps (p. 793). The 1 January 1916 edition the Hokubei Nenkan listed all businesses operating in various Japanese towns. These included two tofu-makers in Seattle, Washington (p. 800), at least one tofu maker in Tacoma, Washington (p. 804. Tacoma had a Japanese population of 931 in 1915721 males and 210 females). Spokane didnt have a Japanese town as in Seattle and Tacoma, but in 1915 it did have a Japanese population of 536 (462 males and 74 females). The map of old-town Portland, Oregon, probably from about 1935, shows 90 Japanese businesses located between 1st Ave. and 7th Ave. (running north-south) and between W. Burnside and N.W. Glisan (running east-west). Among these are two tofu manufacturing companies. Ota Tofu Mfg. is located on 5th Ave. between Everett and Flanders. [Note: The actual address was 86 5th N]. Fukei Tofu Mfg. is
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located is on N.W. Davis between 3rd Ave. and 4th Ave. Contents: The book is divided into 21 parts, with each part containing several chapters (the number is shown in parentheses): 1. Sailing (6). 2. Secret passage and shipjumping (5). 3. Japanese exclusion (15). 4. Japanese women (2). 5. Railroads (5). 6. Alaska (4). 7. Sawmills (2). 8. Agriculture (7). 9. Hotels (2). 10. Restaurants (2). 11. Mines (2). 12. Oysters (2). 13 Japanese language schools (2). 14. Studying English (3). 15. Pro-Japanese (8). 16. Furuya Company (4). 17. Lese majesty affairs (2). 18. Gambling (3). 19. Girls (2). 20. On the streets (9). 21. In Memorium [Memoriamto the many who died]. (2). Appendixes: (1) Partial list of Japan-U.S. and Japan-Canada sister cities. (2) Japanese consulates. (3) Chronological table: Japan and America (side by side), 1868-Sept. 1972. Bibliography (p. 967-72, mostly Japanese-language books). Epilogues: To English and to Japanese editions. Index of personal names (p. 988-1016). Address: Tokyo and Seattle, Washington. 309. Circle, Sidney J. 1974. Soy proteins in dairy-type foods, beverages, confections, dietary, and other foods. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 51(1):198A-199A. Jan. Proceedings, World Soy Protein Conference, Munich, Germany, Nov. 11-14, 1973. Summary: Preparation and properties of the following soy-based product groups are given: Beverages: traditional unfermented soy milks, traditional fermentedyogurt-like milks, simulated milks based on soy protein isolate incl. fermented yogurt-like types, still non-carbonated beverages, carbonated beverages. Simulated sweet creams. Sour cream. Margarine and spreads. Cheese-like foods: Tofu, sufu, simulated cream cheese, simulated cured and processed cheese, cheese spreads and dips. Frozen desserts (incl. ice cream and sherbet). Whipped toppings. Substitute nuts and fruits. Table vegetable, green soybeans, and [soy] bean sprouts. Available in canned form, also fresh in season in some areas. Dry beans can be sprouted in home. Soups. Protein fortication as thickener (soy our, soy protein concentrate, or soy protein isolate) or in high protein noodles or croutons. Oriental use of yuba. Address: Anderson Clayton Foods, Richardson, Texas. 310. Dresden, Donald. 1974. Japan Inn: A good show, visually and gastronomically. Washington Post. Feb. 17. p. PO34. Summary: Dining: The Japan Inn, now in its 3rd year of operation, located at 1715 Wisconsin Ave., NW (Georgetown), continues to rank as one of the nest Japanese restaurants in Washington, DC. To make the broth for Miso soup, begin with a Japanese seaweed called sea tangle [kombu], then remove it after it has imported its avor. Add dried bonito akes to produce a delicate, sh-tasting broth. Bean cake [tofu], mushrooms, and chopped green onions
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU nish the dish. Shabu-shabu comes with two dipping sauces. One of these is made by mixing soy [sauce], vinegar, two kinds of sake, seaweed and dried bonito akes. The other contains sesame seeds, oil, and paste. Shabu-shabu also contains hot pepper, aged soy bean cake, soy sauce and two kinds of sake, one of them [mirin] sweet. Note: The meaning of aged soy bean cake is unclear. It could be fermented tofu, although that is rarely used as an ingredient in Japanese cookery. 311. Kushi, Michio. 1974. Natural agriculture and food processing. Michio Kushi Seminar Report (Brookline, Massachusetts) No. 3. Feb. 26 and 27. p. 5-30. Edited by Ane & Mark Riegel. Summary: On Feb. 26 Mr. Kushi, a macrobiotic teacher, lectured on: TekkaTekka is used not only as a condiment, but also for medicinal use. Tekka is made from three different rootscarrots, burdock, and lotus roots. The volume of miso is exible... Homemade tekka is traditionally made in a cast iron frying pan. The Japanese word tekka derives from tetsu (which means iron) and ka (re). For medicinal use, yang miso is better. Miso and miso manufacturing, including how to make malt (rice koji) (8 pages). Note: This section indicates that Mr. Kushi has some basic knowledge of the subject but there are many errors. 1. Koji is not malt (which refers to soaked, germinated cereal grains), but molded cereal grains or soybeans. 2. Koji kin is not malt bacteria, but koji molds. 3. One does not add enzymes to miso and enzymes do not grow. Even modern miso factories do not add enzymes when making miso. 4. The entire mixture is not stirred after 20-25 days to add oxygen. Kushi says you must keep miso for a least 6 months, but to cure sickness it must be kept for 2-5 years. Miso soup can compensate for the bad qualities of meat and eggsso everyone should eat miso soup daily. Soup stocks and miso soup. On Feb. 27 he discussed: General outline for making shoyusoy sauce (4 p.), including discussions with Kikkoman on making natural shoyu starting with whole soybeans. In the early years after 1973, Kikkoman wanted to make natural shoyu and sent Kushi several samples, but he turned them all down, in large part because Kikkoman wanted to use defatted soybean meal instead of whole soybeans. Erewhon is buying shoyu from 3 companies in Japan. But Kushi says the quality is declining compared to ve years ago [i.e., 1969], when it had powerful healing effects when taken with bancha or kuzu. He adds: Around Boston or on our Ashburnham land, I really hope we can begin to make miso or soy sauce. Kushi says that now, after pasteurization, coloring and avoring is added [not true, except in HVP soy sauce]. Traditionally [in Japan] for this they used natural herbs. For a sweeter taste and darker color they traditionally used kanz [sic, kanr] or sweet grass =
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sweet herb. Formerly, until modern technological methods started to be applied, almost each village made their own shoyu like this, either as a joint community project, or someone with money made it and sold it to several villages. Using bean and grain sproutsmoyashi (including soy sprouts). Other soybean products: Fried tofu (two methods for ag). Ganmodoki. Kori-tofu or koya-tofu (freeze-dried tofu). Soybean milk (Soy milk is very yin. Note: Most Japanese and Japanese scientists consider soymilk to be an alkaline {arukari-sei} beverage, which therefore promotes good health). Yuba. In the discussion, soymilk yogurt and Chinese fermented tofu... fu nyu (p. 28) were mentioned. The U.N. [United Nations] recommendations on food, using vegetable proteins. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term freeze-dried tofu to refer to dried-frozen tofu. Address: Brookline, Massachusetts. 312. Chiang, Cecilia Sun Yun; Carr, Allan. 1974. The Mandarin way. Boston, Massachusetts: Little, Brown and Co. xiv + 274 p. Index. 23 cm. Summary: This charming, interesting book (as told to Allan Carr by Cecilia) is combination biography and Chinese cookbook organized by months (moons)so that it ows with the seasons and seasonal foods. For each of the twelve moons of the old lunar calendar, there is one chapter (e.g., First Moon) of Cecilias memories of growing up in China, as one of 13 children in a family of great wealth, followed by an Interlude chapter on a particular theme (e.g., Of shopping and its pleasures) with her favorite recipes for that time of year. Soyfoods (including soy or soy sauce, fresh bean curd, and preserved bean curd) are mentioned throughout the bookfor example: Freshwater dancing shrimp were eaten raw after being dipped in a tangy sauce of preserved bean curd [fermented tofu], pepper, soy sauce, coriander and wine (p. 8). The pork shoulder was red-cooked in soy [sauce] and wine... Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2010) that uses the term preserved bean curd to refer to a type of fermented tofu. Some measure of success in reproducing authentic meals outside of China can be achieved if the basic supplies are obtained either by purchasing them in Chinese shops or ordering them by mail (several sources, with addresses, are given... These include: fresh ginger root, dried bean curd, dried bean curd [pressed tofu; doufu-gan], sheets [yuba], sesame seed paste, sesame seed oil,... soy sauce,... red bean paste [azuki, also called 1 can sweet red-bean paste (p. 164)], hot bean sauce (p. 21)). Fish with hot spicy bean curd sauce (Tou-pan la-y, with 1 tablespoon Szechwan hot bean curd paste, p. 50). Five-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU spiced spareribs, Peking style (with 2 tablespoons pale soy sauce, p. 71). Peking duck (with hoisin (duck) sauce, p. 96). Red-cooked chicken with chestnuts (with 4 tablespoons dark soy sauce, Japanese Kikkoman or imported, p. 116). Chopped spinach with shredded bean curd (Po-tsai pan tou-fu kan, with dry pressed bean curd, p. 138). Szechwan four season beans (with 1 heaping tablespoon hot soy bean paste, p. 162). In San Franciscos Chinatown, where the shops are predominantly Cantonese, the dry goods store provides me with pressed bean curd and bean curd sheets [yuba, doufu pi],... Talk with Cecilia Chiang. 2008. Nov. 15. She says that bean curd sheets refers to yuba or doufu pi; pressed bean curd to doufu-gan. Hot bean sauce is la douban jiang, which is douban jiang with hot chili peppers; both are made with soybeans. Red bean paste is the same as sweet red bean paste, made with azuki beans (xiao hong dou), and the same as Japanese an. Address: 1. Founder and owner, The Mandarin restaurant, Ghirardelli Square, San Francisco, California. 313. Wang, H.L.; Vespa, J.B.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1974. Acid protease production by fungi used in soybean food fermentation. Applied Microbiology 27(5):906-11. May. [17 ref] Summary: The authors investigated growth conditions for maximum protease production by Rhizopus oligosporus, Mucor dispersus, and Actinomucor elegans. In East Asia, the rst of these three molds is used to make tempeh, and the latter two are used to make sufu. Enzyme yields for all 3 were higher in solid substrate fermentations than in submerged culture. Of the 3 substrates testedwheat bran, wheat, and soybeanswheat bran was the best for enzyme production. The optimal conditions for maximum enzyme production were as follows: Rhizopus oligosporus, 50% moisture at 25C for 3-4 days; Mucor dispersus, 50 to 63% moisture at 25C for 3-4 days; Actinomucor elegans, 50 to 63% moisture at 20C for 3 days. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 314. Spira, Ruth Rodale. 1974. Naturally Chinese. Emmaus, Pennsylvania: Rodale Press, Inc. iii + 346 p. Illust. Index. 25 cm. [8 ref] Summary: Soy-related recipes include: Deep-fried bean curd with sesame sauce (p. 91, with 4 cakes bean curd, each of which is cut into 9 pieces, dried on paper toweling, then deep fried at 375F). Chicken and bean curd stick soup (p. 109, with pound bean curd stick [dried yuba sticks]). Bean curd and greens soup (p. 115, with 1 pieces fresh bean curd [tofu]). Stir-fried eggs with soybean sprouts (p. 226). Stir-fried eggs with bean curd (p. 227, with 2 fresh bean curd cakes or 1/3 pound homemade bean curd). Bean curd sauted with eggs (p. 258, with 4 cakes fresh
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bean curd). Stir-fried bean curd with black mushrooms (p. 259). Stir-fried bean curd with squash (p. 260). Homemade bean curd with soybeans (p. 261-62, curded with vinegar or gypsum / calcium sulfate. The residue [okara], which is called Soybean pulp, may be added to ground beef up to a 1 to 2 ratio. Step 8. Remove curd from bag and mix with salt is a new invention in making tofuwhich ends up with a texture like cottage cheese and seasoned with salt). Homemade bean curd with soybean powder (p. 262-63, curded with vinegar or gypsum). Celery cabbage creamed in soy milk (p. 269, with 4 heaping teaspoons soybean powder. 2. Place soybean powder and water in a pint jar. Tighten lid and shake well. Add cornstarch and honey to soybean milk). Soybean sprouts with celery (p. 273). Spinach in soy sauce (p. 276). Vegetarian dish of the Buddhists (p. 277-78, with 2 ounces dried bean curd [probably dried yuba sticks] and 3 cakes fresh bean curd). A guide to Chinese cooking ingredients (p. 289324) and Glossary (p. 325-26) describe: Bean curd (dow footofu, incl. pressed curd {rmer}, canned bean curd {somewhat less creamy than the fresh}). Bean curd, dried (foo jook [dried yuba sticks]; tiem jook is sweeter than foo jook). Bean curd cheese (fooh yu [fermented tofu]). Bean paste, yellow (wong dow sa). Bean sauce, brown (min see jeung). Beans, black soy (kei tou). Beans-black fermented (dow see). Hoisin sauce (hoy sin jeung. A soybean-based sauce...). Soybean sprouts (Da dow ngah). Photos show: (1) Three squares (pillows) of pressed bean curd. (2) A box of Dried bean curd [foo jook] (p. 296). (3) Black soybeans (enlarged) (p. 299). (4) A bag of Salted black bean (fermented black beans) (p. 300). 315. Ali-Bab. 1974. The encyclopedia of practical gastronomy. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill. vii + 471 p. Illust. 24 cm. * Summary: This is a translation of Gastronomie pratique. The Joy of Cooking (1963, p. 542) states that the author refers to soy, Worcestershire, catsups, tabascos, and other such commercial condiments as sauces violentes, which mask out all other avors. Page 44: 83. The catjang is a fermented bean curd. Note: The author, whose real name was Henri Babinsky, was of Polish ancestry, born in 1855 in Paris and died in 1931. The 1st edition (314 p., 20 cm) was published in 1907 by the same publisher in Paris. The 2nd edition (636 p., 26 cm) was published in 1912. 316. Baker, Trudy; Jones, Rachel. 1974. The coffee tea or me girls get away from it all. New York, NY: Grosset & Dunlap. 229 p. 22 cm. * Summary: Page 119: Weve told a million stews that New York is an acquired taste, like yak butter or fermented bean curd, but it doesnt do any good. They arrive on their vacations, wide-eyed and giggly, convinced that this is where
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU the action is... 317. Lo, Kenneth H.C. 1974. Chinese vegetable and vegetarian cooking. London: Faber & Faber, Ltd. 172 p. Index. 21 cm. Summary: This original edition, published in London, is smaller in height, has no illustrations, and 13 fewer pages than the American edition published the same year. The recipes are the same, but on slightly different pages; For details, see the American edition (1974). 318. Lo, Kenneth H.C. 1974. Chinese vegetarian cooking. New York, NY: Pantheon Books (Div. of Random House). 185 p. Illust. by Tom Funk. Index. 22 cm. Summary: Originally published in 1974 in London, England, as Chinese Vegetable and Vegetarian Cooking by Faber & Faber, Ltd. However that book is smaller in height, has no illustrations, and 13 fewer pages than this American edition. The entire text has been lightly edited and re-set for American cooks and readers. The recipes are basically the same, but on slightly different pages, and with some titles slightly changed (e.g., from sesame jam to sesame paste, p. 133). In the Introduction, under Flavoring, the following soybean products are listed: Soy sauce, black beans (salted), soybean paste (yellow and black), bean-curd cheese (red and yellow). Soy-related recipes include: Steamed bean curd with peanut butter sauce (p. 50). Hot-marinated bean-curd sticks [dried twisted yuba] with quick-fried [mung] bean sprouts (with yellow bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu], p. 6061). The Lo Han dish of the monks mixed vegetables (with tofu, and red bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu], p. 72-73). Hot assembly of shredded bamboo shoots and bean curd... (with tofu and bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu], p. 74). Hot assembly of chestnuts, sliced lotus root, gingko nuts, peanuts, Chinese mushrooms, and bean curd (with tofu and white bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu], p. 75). Hot black bean and tomato sauce (Ratatouille Chinoise; with salted black beans and soybean paste, p. 82-83). Basic bean-curd soup (p. 105). Enriched bean-curd soup (p. 105). Soy eggs (with soy sauce, p. 125). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the terms yellow bean-curd cheese or red bean-curd cheese or white bean-curd cheese to refer to fermented tofu. There is an entire chapter titled Bean Curd (p. 13548), with an introduction and the following recipes: Cold bean curd (with soy sauce and peanut oil). Cold bean curd with sesame paste or peanut butter (Use 1 tablespoons sesame paste, p. 136). Hot-and-savory bean-curd pudding (with salted black beans). Hot-and-pungent bean-curd pudding. Red-cooked bean curd with bean-curd sticks [yuba] (with soybean paste and soy sauce; the sticks are about 20 inches long). Stir-fried bean curds. Bean curd stir fried with
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[mung] bean sprouts or spinach. Bean curd stir fried with green beans. Deep-fried bean curd stir fried with duck eggs and cucumber skins. Deep-fried bean curd stir fried with eggs, mushrooms, and wood ears. Stir-fried shredded bean curd with dried bamboo shoots, dried mushrooms, lily-bud stems, and seaweed. Clear-simmered bean curds. Clearsimmered bean curd with lettuce and cellophane noodles. Clear-simmered bean curd with [mung] bean sprouts, water chestnuts, and sliced cucumbers. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (June 2003) that uses the term sesame paste. 319. Okada, Chiyoko; Kataoka, E.; Togano, T.; Tamura, S.; Suzuki, T. 1974. Nyfu no ippan seibun, amino-san oyobi kihatsu-san ni kansuru kenky [Analysis of some components, amino acids and volatile acids of nyufu (fermented soybean curd)]. Eiyo to Shokuryo (J. of Japanese Society of Food and Nutrition) 27(7):309-15. [10 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Nyufu is made by partial dehydration of tofu followed by inoculation with Actinomucor repens. After the mold mycelium covers the surface, it is immersed in soy sauce moromi mash for aging. During ageing, the moisture content decreases, while the contents of salt, reducing sugars, and amino nitrogen increase. Only small amounts of lysine and amino-butyrate are found in nyufu. Formic and acetic acids can be detected at every step, whereas propionic acid and isobutyric acid can be detected only in the moromi mash and nyufu. Isovaleric acid is found in nyufu. Butyric acid is found after inoculation with the mold. Address: 1-3. Dep. of Nutrition, Tokyo Univ. of Agriculture; 4-5. National Food Research Inst., Tokyo. 320. Tovar Galvez, Luis Raul. 1975. Productos derivados del frijol soya tecnologias tradicionales en el Lejano Oriente [Traditional technology soy products in the Far East]. In: American Soybean Assoc., ed. 1975. Memorias: Primera Conferencia Latinoamericana Sobre la Proteina de Soya. Mexico City. 232 p. See p. 185-93. [14 ref. Spa] Summary: Descriptions of and ow sheets for the production of the following basic soyfoods are given: Miso, shoyu (salsa de soya), natto, tempeh, sufu (fermented tofu), and soy yogurt. A table shows the nutritional composition of each of these foods as well as yuba and kori-tfu (driedfrozen tofu). Note 1. This is the earliest Spanish-language document seen (Sept. 2011) that mentions tempeh, which it calls tempeh. Note 2. This is the earliest Spanish-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term kori-tfu to refer to dried-frozen tofu. Address: Faculdad de Quimica, UNAM, Mexico. 321. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1975. The book of
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU tofu: Food for mankind. Hayama-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan: Autumn Press. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi. Index. Dec. 28 cm. Rev. ed. 1977 Autumn Press, Brookline, MA. [53 ref] Summary: This pioneering work started the tofu revolution in America. Contents: Preface. Acknowledgements. Part I. Tofu: Food for mankind. 1. Protein East and West. 2. Tofu as a food: Introduction, rich in high quality protein (NPU, biological value, protein score, amino acid content), high protein complementarity (tofu contains an abundance of lysine, an essential amino acid that is decient in many cereal grains; increase usable protein by combining tofu with wheat, rice, corn, etc.), easy to digest, an ideal diet food, low in saturated fats and free of cholesterol, rich in vitamins and minerals, a health-giving natural food, backbone of the meatless / vegetarian diet, free of chemical toxins, low in cost, easily made at home, quick & easy to use, versatile. 3. Getting started: Introduction, buying and storing tofu, basic ingredients (whole-wheat our, miso {rice-, barley, and soybean miso, special Japanese miso, Chinese chiang}, oil, brown rice, salt, shoyu {natural shoyu, shoyu, Chinese soy sauce, synthetic or chemical soy sauce}, sugar, vinegar, monosodium glutamate {MSG}), Japanese kitchen tools (each illustrated), preparatory techniques (salt rubbing, rinsing and pressing leeks and onions, soaking burdock root, reconstituting dried sea vegetables {dried hijiki, wakame, agar}, wheat gluten and kampyo [kanpyo], parboiling, cutting tofu and vegetables, using sesame seeds, toasting nori, preparing a steamer), basic recipes (soup stocks and broths {dashi}, basic shoyu dipping sauces {tsuke-jiru}, miso toppings {sweet simmered miso / nerimiso, miso saut / abura miso, special miso toppings and dipping sauces, nger lickin miso, and regular miso}, miso salad dressings, nut and seed butter toppings, spreads and dressings, basic sauces, rice, noodles and other basic preparations). Our favorite tofu recipes (lists about 80 recipe names for each of the different types of tofu, plus soymilk, yuba, whole soybeans, g, okara, and curds; very favorites that are also quick and easy to prepare are preceded by an asterisk). Part II. Cooking with tofu: Recipes from East and West (500 recipes). 4. Soybeans: History of soybeans and soybean foods, cooking with whole dry soybeans, roasted soybeans (iri-mame), fresh green soybeans (edamame, incl. a recipe for Sweet emerald bean paste {Jinda}), kinako (roasted full-fat soy our, incl. Japanese health food treats such as kinako am, gokabo, kokusen, kankanbo, and abekawa mochi), soybean sprouts (daizu no moyashi), natto (sticky fermented whole soybeans, with gossamer threads), tempeh (fermented soybean cakes), Hamanatto and Daitokuji natto (raisin-like natto), modern western soybean foods (natural soy our [full-fat], soy granules, defatted soy our and grits, soy protein concentrates, soy protein isolates, spun protein bers, textured vegetable protein {TVP}, soy oil products). 5. G (a thick white puree
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of well-soaked uncooked soybeans). 6. Okara or Unohana. 7. Curds and whey. 8. Tofu (includes history, and preparatory techniques: Parboiling, draining, pressing {towel and fridge method, slanting press method, sliced tofu method}, squeezing, scrambling, reshaping, crumbling, grinding, homemade tofu, tofu quick and easy {incl. Chilled tofu Hiya-yakko}, tofu dressings, spreads, dips and hors doeuvre {incl. Tofu mayonnaise dressing, Tofu tartare sauce, Tofu cream cheese, Tofu sour cream, Tofu cottage cheese, Tofu guacamole}, tofu in salads {Western style and Japanese style salads incl. Shira-ae}, tofu with sandwiches and toast, tofu in soups {Western style and Japanese style soups, incl. miso soup}, tofu in sauces, tofu in breakfast egg dishes, tofu baked, tofu sauted, stir-fried or topped with sauces {incl. Mabo-dofu [Ma Po doufu]}, deep-fried tofu, tofu with grains, tofu broiled {incl. Tofu dengaku}, tofu simmered in one-pot cookery and seasoned broths, tofu steamed, tofu desserts). 9. Deep-fried tofu: Thick ag or nama ag or atsu ag, ganmo or ganmodoki (incl. hiryozu / hirosu), ag or aburag (incl. Smoked tofu, p. 197). 10. Soymilk. 11. Kinugoshi (Kinu means silk; kosu means to strain; well named, kinugoshi tofu has a texture so smooth that it seems to have been strained through silk. It is made from concentrated soymilk). 12. Grilled tofu (incl. sukiyaki). 13. Frozen and dried-frozen tofu. 14. Yuba (incl. many meat alternatives such as Yuba mock broiled eels, Buddhas chicken, Buddhas ham, sausage). 15. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea (incl. Savory tofu {wu-hsiang kan}; see p. 258 for illustrations of many meat alternatives, incl. Buddhas sh, chicken, drumsticks, and duck, plus vegetarian liver and tripe, molded pigs head, and molded ham). One type of Korean soybean miso is called kotsu jang [sic, kochu jang]. When tofu is served with miso [Korean-style, Tenjang] as the dominant seasoning, and with rice, it becomes the popular Tenjang Chige Pekpem (p. 262). 16. Special tofu. Note: This is the earliest (and only) English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the word Tenjang to refer to Korean-style soybean jang (miso). Part IIIJapanese farmhouse tofu: Making tofu for more and more people. 17. The quest. 18. Making community tofu. 19. The traditional craftsman. 20. Making tofu in the traditional way. Appendices: A. Tofu restaurants in Japan; many are vegetarian: In Tokyo: Sasa-no-yuki / Sasanoyuki, Goemon, Hisago, Sanko-in, Shinoda-zushi, Dengaku (south of Tokyo in Kamakura). In Kyoto: Nakamura-ro, Okutan, Takocho, Izusen, Junsei, Nishiki, Hakuun-an, Rengetsu, Sagano, Sorin-an. Tea ceremony cuisine (Kaiseki ryori), Zen temple cookery or Buddhist vegetarian cookery (Shojin ryori), Tea ceremony cookery from China (Fucha ryori), Wild gathered cookery (Sansai ryori). A directory of these and others, with addresses and phone numbers, is given (p. 312). B. Tofu shops in the West (Directory of 43 shops in
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU the USA, 3 in Europe, and 3-7 in Latin America {Mexico City, Rio de Janeiro and Sao Paolo, Brazil}). C. People and institutions connected with tofu. D. Table of equivalents. Bibliography. Glossary. Index. About the authors (autobiographical sketches; a photo shows Shurtleff and Aoyagi, and gives their address as New-Age Foods Study Center, 278-28 Higashi Oizumi, Nerima-ku, Tokyo, Japan 177). Sending tofu in the four directions. Pudding recipes include: Rice pudding with g and apple (p. 76, incl. 2 cups soymilk). Tofu chawan-mushi (p. 147; Steamed egg-vegetable custard with tofu). Tofu fruit whips (p. 148). Tofu rice pudding (p. 150, incl. 1 cup soymilk). Tofu custard pudding (p. 152). Soymilk custard pudding (p. 208). Brown rice pudding (p. 208, with 2 cups soymilk). Soymilk chawan-mushi (p. 209). Chawan-mushi with yuba (p. 249). Dessert recipes include: Tofu whipped cream or yogurt (p. 148; resembles a pudding or parfait). Tofu ice cream (p. 149, with chilled tofu, honey, vanilla extract and salt). Banana-tofu milkshake (p. 149). Tofu cream cheese dessert balls (p. 149). Tofu icing (for cake, p. 149). Tofu cheesecake (p. 150). Tofu-pineapple sherbet (p. 151). Also: Soymilk yogurt (cultured, p. 205). Healthy banana milkshake (p. 206). On p. 160 is a recipe for Mock tuna salad with deep fried tofu. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2007) that uses the term Tofu ice cream to refer to soy ice cream or that contains a recipe for Tofu ice cream. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2000) that uses the term Tofu Cheesecake and the rst to give a recipe for a tofu cheesecake. Note 3. This is the earliest English-language document seen (May 2000) that uses the term Tofu Sour Cream (p. 109) or that contains a recipe for Tofu Sour Cream. Note 4. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 2003) that uses the term tofu milkshake or that gives a recipe for a shake made with tofu. Note 5. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word stringy to refer to natto. Note 6. This is the 2nd earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2011) that uses the term dried-frozen tofu. Note 7. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2004) that describes preparatory techniques for tofu (p. 96-98). Note 8. This is also the earliest English-language document seen (March 2004) that contains the term smoked tofu. Note 9. This is also the earliest English-language document seen (March 2004) that uses the term kinugoshi tofu to refer to silken tofu. Note 10. As of March 2007, the various English-
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language editions of this book have sold more than 616,000 copies. Note 11. This is the earliest English-language document seen (June 2011) that uses the term tofu lees to refer to okara (see p. 22, 77). Note 12. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2011) that contains the term Modern Western soybean foods (see p. 69), a term that Shurtleff would soon (by 1983) replace by the more accurate Modern soy protein products. Address: c/o Aoyagi, 278-28 Higashi Oizumi, Nerima-ku, Tokyo 177, Japan. Phone: (03) 925-4974. 322. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1975. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea (Document part). In: W. Shurtleff and A. Aoyagi. 1975. The Book of Tofu. Hayamashi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan: Autumn Press. 336 p. See p. 25064. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Three varieties of tofu. Doufu: Known as tojo or tokua in the Philippines, or as tahu in Indonesia. Pressed tofu (doufu-kan): Savory tofu (wuhsiang kan), soy-sauce pressed tofu (chiang-yu doufu-kan), pressed tofu sheets (pai-yeh, incl. pressed tofu noodles or beancurd shreds {doufu-ssu, kan-ssu}, pressed tofu loops {pai-yeh chieh}, Buddhas Chicken {su-chi} or Buddhas Ham {suhuo-tui}, salted dry tofu {doufu-kan}). Chinese soft kinugoshi (shui-doufu, sui-doufu, nen-doufu, nan-doufu, shin-kao doufu). Warm soymilk curds: Chinese smooth curds (doufu-nao, dou-nao; often served for breakfast by street vendors), curds-in-whey (doufu-hua). Deep-fried tofu (yudoufu, cha-doufu, doufu-kuo, kuo-lao doufu). Frozen tofu (tung-doufu, ping-doufu). Doufu-ru [fermented tofu]: white fermented tofu (pai doufuru, incl. 5 different types such as red pepper, sesame oil and red pepper, ve-spice, etc.), red fermented tofu (hung doufuru, nanru, nanyu, made by adding Chinese red fermented rice {ang-tsao} to the brining liquor to give it a deep red color, thick consistency, and distinctive avor and aroma; soy sauce is generally used in place of rice wine; another variety is rose essence fermented tofu), stinky fermented tofu (tsao-doufu, chou doufu, incl. green stinky fermented tofu), chiang-doufu (prepared by pickling rm cubes of tofu for several days in either Chinese-style miso {chiang} or soy sauce). Soymilk (doufu chiang, dou-chiang, dou-nai, dou-ru): Widely enjoyed as a spicy hot breakfast soup (p. 204) or a warm, sweetened beverage (p. 207). Sometimes sold bottled by street vendors. Yuba: Much more popular and much less expensive in China and Taiwan than it is in Japan. Called bean curd skin or sheets in most Chinese cookbooks, yuba is known in Mandarin as doufu-pi (tofu skin) or doufu-i (tofu robes). Remarkable Chinese ingenuity and creativity in giving the semblance of meat. In the display case of attractive restaurants or marketplace yuba shops are perfect replicas of
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU plucked hens, roosters, and ducks, light-brown sh (complete with ns, gills, eyes, and mouth), juicy hams, tripe, liver, rolled meats, red sausage links, deep-fried drumsticks, and a life-sized pigs headall made from yuba. Most of these imitation meat dishes are prepared by pressing fresh yuba into a hinged (wooden or aluminum) mold, clamping the mold closed, then steaming it until the yubas shape is xed. Su-tsai restaurants specialize in Buddhist vegetarian cookery. Names of prepared dishes: Buddhas Chicken (suchi), Buddhas Fish (suyu, sushi), Buddhas Duck (suya), Vegetarian Tripe (taoto) or Liver (sukan); Molded Pigs Head (tutao), Molded Ham (suhuo), Sausage Links (enchan), Buddhas Drumsticks (sutsai tsui), Deep-fried Duck (suya). A full-page illustration (p. 258) shows these products. Fresh yuba. Dried yuba (kan doufu-pi, incl. sweet yuba and Bamboo yuba {fuchu}). Tofu and yuba in Chinese cookery: Mandarin cookery, congee (rice porridge), red broiled sauces (hong-sao), meatless days, vegetarian restaurants. The Chinese tofu shop: Description of the process for making tofu. Tofu in Korea. Recipes: Fermented tofu dressings, spreads, dips, and hors doeuvre. Fermented tofu in sauces, egg dishes, and with grains. Illustrations show: (102) A woman cutting doufu at the marketplace. (103) Making pressed tofu using a hand-turned screw press. (104) Pressed tofu noodles. Buddhas chicken. (105) Street vendor selling soymilk curds. (106) Pressing tofu in forming boxes using stone weights. (107) Deep-frying ag triangles in a wok. (108) Threaded thick-ag cubes. (109) Net-like thick ag. (110) A soymilk vendor carrying bottled soymilk using a shoulder pole. (111) Yuba mock meats. (112) Yuba steaming pots. (113) Steam-heated drum can cooker in Chinese tofu shop. Doufu-ru [fermented tofu] cubes on plate, in bottle, in can. Woman selling tofu, seated by the street side. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word doufu to refer to Chinese-style tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest Englishlanguage document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the word tofu skin to refer to yuba. Address: Lafayette, California. 323. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1975. The book of tofu: Food for mankind (Illustrationsline drawings). Hayama-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan: Autumn Press. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi. Index. Dec. 28 cm. Rev. ed. 1977 Autumn Press, Brookline, MA. [53 ref] Summary: Continued: Illustrations (line drawings, both numbered and unnumbered) show: A hearth in a traditional Japanese farmhouse with tofu dengaku roasting around a bed of coals in a sunken open-hearth replace. An old Japanese plum tree blossoming in winter. Three pieces of skewered tofu dengaku with a sansho leaf atop each in a special serving box. A sprig of sansho with berries. Stylized top of a soybean plant in a circle. Fig. (4) Tofu products available in the West (tofu, dofu, kinugoshi, thick ag triangles, cubes,
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and cake, ag and age puffs, hollow ag cubes, soymilk, tofu pudding, doufu-ru {white and red}, ganmo {patties, small balls, and treasure balls}, grilled tofu, dried-frozen tofu, instant powdered tofu, okara, dried yuba, soymilk curds, pressed tofu, savory tofu). A wooden cutting board and Japanese broad-bladed vegetable knife (nagiri-bcho) with vegetables and tofu on a woven bamboo tray. (8) A wooden keg of red miso and a plastic bag of barley miso. (9) Shoyu in a metal can, wooden keg, glass bottle, and table-top dispenser. Traditional Japanese kitchen tools: Miso-koshi (woven bamboo strainer used in making miso soup). cutting board, Japanese vegetable knife, wooden spatula, bamboo rice paddle (shamoji) and spoon, woven bamboo colander or tray (zaru), suribachi, Japanese grater (oroshi-gan), sudar (bamboo mat), pressing sack for tofu or soymilk, serrated tofu-slicing knife, tawashi scrub-brush (made of natural palm ber), wok with draining rack and wooden lid, stir-frying ladle and spatula, long cooking-chopsticks, mesh skimmer, deep-frying thermometer, Chinese bamboo steamer (seiro), charcoal brazier (konro, shichirin), broiling screen. Covered pot steamer. Small lidded pottery pot. More kitchen tools (p. 50-51). (10) A soybean measuring box (issh-bako). (11) The soybean plant. Two views of a soybean seed with seed coat, hilum, and hypocotyl labeled. A bag full of soybean. Roasted soybeans in a woven bamboo tray (zaru). Edamam in the pods. Three shapes of kinako treats. Soybean sprouts. Natto on a bamboo mat (sudare). Natto wrapped in rice straw as it ferments. A hand holding chopsticks that lift natto up from a bowl of nattoconnected by gossamer threads. Tempeh (round and square pieces). Wrapping a small packet of inoculated soybeans to make tempeh. (15) Two Japanese women in traditional clothing using hand-turned grinding stones (quern) to grind soaked soybeans when making tofu. (16) Push-pull grinding stones. (17) Motor-driven grinding stones. (18) Water-powered millstones. (19) Wind-powered millstones. (20) Unohana. (21) A tofu maker sitting on a traditional lever press that presses soymilk from the okara in a pressing sack on a rack. A heavy iron skillet. (22) Folding okara omelet pouches. Okara doughnuts. (23) A bamboo colander. (24) A tofu maker weighting a colander with a brick so that whey will collect in it. (25) Ladling whey from curds; it foams! (27) A horse drinking whey from a wooden vat. Soymilk curds in a bamboo mat. (28) Ladling curds for Awayuki. (29) Fresh tofu in a plastic tub. (30) A tofu maker placing a weight on pressing lids as tofu is pressed in settling boxes (forming boxes). Transferring tofu-lled settling box to sing. Cutting a block of tofu into cakes under water. Eggplant halves in a yin-yang dance. Preparatory techniques used with tofu (slanting press, sliced tofu, squeezing, scrambling, reshaping, crumbling). (32) Utensils for making tofu at home. (33) Three designs for a homemade settling container. (34) Preparing homemade tofu (a-l). (35) Removing tofu from a farmhouse-style settling container (forming box). (36) Chilled tofu. Iceberg chilled tofu. A hot,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU moist, white towelette (o-shibori) is used to wipe the face and hands before (or occasionally after) a meal. Tofu salads in three Japanese pottery dishes. Japanese soups in three types of containers. (37) Chrysanthemum tofu. (38) Tofu poached egg. Tofu-stuffed green peppers. A wok. (39) Filling a wok with oil. (40) testing oil temperature in a wok. (41) Deep-frying tofu tempuraand (42) Serving it in a shallow bamboo basket. (43) Making Kaki-ag. (44) Dengaku Hoshi (from Tofu Hyaku Chin). (45) Skewered Tofu dengaku. Preparing Tofu dengaku in old Japan (from Hokusais sketchbooks). (46) A variety of skewers. (47) Chinese repots. (48) A Simmering Tofu wooden serving container heated by coals from within. (49) Miso oden. (50) Tofu wrapped in rice straw. (51) Nanzenji wrapped tofu. (52) Gisei-dofu. (53) Serving freshly deep-fried ag. (54) The deep-frying area of a traditional tofu shop. (55) Deep-frying tools. (56) Wooden bamboo tray with raised sides. Chinese cleaver. (57) Nori-wrapped sushi with ag (making and serving; six drawings). Eating noodles from old Japan (from Hokusais sketchbook). (58) Preparing homemade noodles. (59) The Oden man on a winters eve. A potter bowl of Oden. Kombu rolls. (60) Making konnyaku twists. (61) Nishime in a multi-layered lacquerware box. (61) Pressing tofu for thick ag in a tofu shop. (62) Deep-frying tofu for thick ag. (63) A tofu maker with deep-fried thick ag triangles on screen trays. (64) Stufng thick ag. (65) Thick ag stuffed with onions. (66) Pressing tofu for ganmo. (67) Adding seeds and vegetables. (68) Deep-frying ganmo. (69) A farmhouse openhearth replace with nabe kettle. (70) Preparing homemade ganmo. Ganmo balls in a draining tray. Ganmo cheeseburger. (71) Cutting tofu to make ag slices (kiji). (72) Deep frying ag. (73) Opening ag into pouches. Ag treasure pouches. (74) Ag pouches sealed with foodpicks. Inari shrine with Shinto torii. (75) Kampyo-tied pouches [kanpyo]. (76) Making rolled ag hors doeuvre. (77) Tofu maker ladling g (fresh soy puree) into a cauldron. (78) Stirring down the g. Pressing soymilk from okara with a hand-turned screw press. (79) Serving fresh soymilk in a tofu shop. Six Japanese commercial soymilk products. Little girl at The Farm (Summertown, Tennessee) seated on a small chair drinking a cup of soymilk. Chinese breakfast soymilk soup with deepfried crullers (Siento-chiang with yu-chiao tsao pi). (80) Takigawa-dofu. (81) Tofu maker pouring the soymilk for kinugoshi tofu. (82) Adding solidier. (83) Trimming kinugoshi from sides of box. (84) Modern lactone kinugoshi (with GDL). (85) Modern kinugoshi factory. (86) Sasa-noYukis Gisei-dofu container. (87) Kinugoshi with ankake sauce. The entrance way to a traditional Japanese restaurant featuring tofu. Traditional metal skewer for making grilled tofu. (88) Traditional tofu maker grilling tofu over a charcoal brazier (hibachi). Grilling tofu in a traditional open hearth. (89) An early method of elaborate grilling. Pieces of tofu on different types of skewers. Farmhouse sukiyaki with grilled tofu. (90) Tying frozen tofu with rice straw. (91) Drying
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farmhouse frozen tofu. (92) Pressing frozen tofu at home. (93) Deep-fried frozen tofu with cheese. (94) Making deepfried frozen tofu sandwiches (Hakata-ag). (95) Frozen tofu wrapped in kombu. (96) Steaming table in a yuba shop. Ten different types / shapes of yuba. (97) Lifting yuba away from soymilk. (98) Yuba sashimi. (99) Yuba envelopes. (100) Deep-fried yuba dengaku. (101) Folding yuba into bundles. Trimming half-dried yuba from a skewer. (102-113) Tofu and yuba in Taiwan, China, and Korea (see separate record). Sesame tofu in pottery bowl. (114) Traditional farmhouse tofu, tied into a package with rice straw rope. (115) Shirakawa-go farmhouses with water-powered rise-husker in foreground. (116) Making seawater tofu at Suwanose. Mortar and pestle for pounding mochi. Making community tofu: Western metal hand mill, hand-turned stone mill apparatus, faces of upper and lower stones, colander and cloth, two shapes of cooking pots, Japanese farmhouse earthen cooking stove, cooking pot set on cut-off oil drum, ladle, two wooden paddles, pressing rack, pressing okara, lever press, pressing sack, wooden settling [forming] container with cloths. (117) Making nigari with salt in bamboo colander, a traditional salt boat for rening salt of nigari. (119) Country farmhouse tofu (5 illust.). (121) Morning shopping at a tofu shop. (122) Diagram of a tofu-shop oor plan. (123) Modern pressure with hydraulic press. (124) Modern centrifuge with 3 soymilk barrels. Thirty-one unnumbered illustrations showing every step in making and selling tofu in a traditional Japanese shop (p. 299-306). (125) Cutting tofu for Dengaku (from Tofu Hyaku Chin). (126) Ladies busy making dengaku (from Tofu Hyaku Chin). (127) Hearth at Nakamura-ro. (128) The garden at Okutan. Six types of Japanese sea vegetables: Hijiki, aonori, wakame, agar, nori, kombu. (129) Japanese vegetables (27 illustrations). Address: c/o Aoyagi, 278-28 Higashi Oizumi, Nerima-ku, Tokyo 177, Japan. Phone: (03) 925-4974. 324. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1975. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea: Doufu-ru (Document part). In: W. Shurtleff and A. Aoyagi. 1975. The Book of Tofu. Hayama-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan: Autumn Press. 336 p. See p. 255-56, 262-64. Summary: Surely the most distinctive genre of tofu prepared in China is doufu-ru, or fermented tofu. Doufu-ru,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU in its many forms, is completely unlike anything prepared in Japan or, for that matter, any food familiar to most Westerners. Known in English as Chinese cheese, tofu-, bean curd-, or soybean cheese, or preserved- or pickled bean curd, it is called doufu-ru, furu, rufu, or dou-ru in Mandarin, fuyu or funan in Cantonese (and in most Western tofu shops run by Cantonese masters), and sufu or dousufu in Shanghai and in most scientic literature. The latter terms, which mean molded milk, are not at all familiar to most Chinese. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term doufu-ru to refer to fermented tofu. Doufu-ru has a softalmost creamyconsistency and strong avor and aroma reminiscent of Camembert cheese. Most varieties, seasoned with minced red peppers, are quite sharp and hot on the tongue, so that a little bit goes a long way. Widely enjoyed as a relish and seasoning, doufu-ru is prepared and sold in special Chinese pickle-and-miso shops rather than in neighborhood tofu shops. Traditionally, it was also prepared in many homes and farmhouses. The process of fermentation and preservation in a brining liquor enables this variety of tofu to last for as long as one to two years, even in semitropical climates, and its low cost makes doufuru especially popular among the poorer classes. Like cheese, wines, miso, shoyu, and many other fermented foods, doufuru gradually improves in avor, aroma, and texture as it ages. As mold enzymes break down and digest the protein in the tofu, the latters sharp avors mellow and its consistency softens: well-aged doufu-ru virtually melts on the tongue. After the tofu has ripened for 6 to 8 months, its color turns from yellowish white to a soft light-brown, and the wineand-salt brining liquor, too, grows richer and mellower. Fermented tofu is the only traditional soybean product made in the manner of Western cheeses, that is, by ripening tofu with a mold. Although one would think that soymilk could easily be made into cheeses similar to those prepared from dairy milk, repeated attempts to produce such cheeseseven in modern Western laboratorieshave until very recently met with failure. But unlike Western cheeses, doufu-ru is immersed in an alcoholic brine during ripening and is generally sold still immersed in the brining liquor in pint bottles or small cans. To prepare doufu-ru, 3/4- to linch cubes of doufu or rm tofu are inoculated with spores of a mucor-type mold, then incubated in a warm place for about 3 to 7 days until each cube is covered with a dense mat of fragrant white mycelium. The molded cubes are immersed in the brine, which generally contains Chinese rice wine and red peppers (or other spices and seasonings). After ripening for one to two months in the brining liquor, the bottled tofu is shipped to Chinese markets where it is often allowed to age for another two to four months before being placed on sale. It is said that if the doufu-ru remains motionless when the jar is spun quickly on its axis, it has been properly aged and is ready to use.
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In China, the most popular ways of serving doufu-ru are as a seasoning for congee (hot breakfast rice porridge) or rice, as an appetizer or hors doeuvre with drinks, or as an ingredient in stir-fried dishes or simmered sauces, used to add zest and avor. The brining liquor is also used in many of these preparations. In Western cookery, doufu-ru is delicious used like Camembert or Roquefort cheese in dips, spreads, dressings, and casseroles. Recipes for each of these preparations are given at the end of this chapter. The ideographic character for fu in doufu-ru (also used in the word doufu) means spoiled. The character for ru means milk. These characters have an unusual and very ancient etymology. Although the Chinese had a highly developed civilization long before the beginning of the Christian era, they never developed the art of dairy farming or, consequently, of making cheese. But their northerly neighbors, the Mongols, whom the Chinese regarded as uncivilized barbarians, were quite skilled in the preparation of ne goats cheese. The Chinese called this cheese furu, or spoiled milk. Centuries later, the Chinese learned how to prepare their own variety of fermented cheese, but from soy rather than dairy milk, probably with some help (or at least inspiration) from the Mongols. And the name which they had used derogatorily for the Mongolian cheese gradually came to be used for their own tofu cheese: their insult boomeranged and remains with them to this day. Consequently some modern Chinese and Japaneseespecially those operating expensive restaurantswrite the character fu in the words tofu, doufu, and doufu-ru with a different character which, although pronounced fu, means afuent, ample, or abundant. Records show that doufu-ru was being produced in China by the fteenth century and that it may have originated much earlier. The technique for making fermented tofu spread from China to Vietnam (where similar a food called chao is now prepared) and to the East Indies (where tao tuan is made.) A type of fermented tofu called tahuri is also produced in the Philippines by packing large (4- by 4- by 2-inch) cakes of rm molded tofu into cans with a large quantity of salt. Neither sake nor brine is used in the process. After ripening for several months, the tofu is yellowish brown and has a distinctive salty avor. The four basic types of Chinese fermented tofu are white doufu-ru, red doufu-ru, tsao-doufu (tofu fermented in sake lees), and chiang-doufu (tofu fermented in miso or soy sauce). The brining liquor used for each is also a popular ingredient in many Chinese recipes, especially in dipping sauces. Called doufu-ru chih, it often contains various spices or minced red peppers which make it a zesty seasoning. White Doufu-ru (Pai doufu-ru): In most of China and in the West, this is the most popular type of fermented tofu. Unless it is specically being contrasted with the red variety, it is generally called simply doufu-ru. The tofus avor,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU color, and aroma can be modied either by changing the salt or alcohol composition of the brining liquor or by adding different combinations of spices and seasonings. The most common brine contains about 10 percent alcohol and 12 percent salt; some contain little or no alcohol, while others may contain more than twice as much alcohol as salt. One brine of the latter type yields drunken cheese (tsui-fang) and another yields small cheese cubes (chih-fang). At least ve different varieties of white doufu-ru are sold in markets and marketplaces throughout Taiwan and China. The most popular is red pepper doufu-ru (la doufuru, la-chiao furu, or la furu). Available in the West as Fermented Bean Curd, it contains a hearty portion of minced red peppers which make the avor hot and spicy while also serving as a natural preservative. When sesame oil is added to this type of fermented tofu it is known as sesamered pepper doufu-ru (mayu-la doufu-ru). Some milder and particularly delicious types of doufu-ru are made in liquors containing only rice wine, salt, and water plus an occasional small amount of sesame oil Continued. Address: Lafayette, California. 325. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1975. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea: Doufu-ru (Continued Document part II). In: W. Shurtleff and A. Aoyagi. 1975. The Book of Tofu. Hayama-shi, Kanagawa-ken, Japan: Autumn Press. 336 p. See p. 255-56, 262-64. Summary: Continued Other seasonings include anise, cinnamon, lemon juice, slivered lemon peel, tiny dried shrimp, and diced ham. Spiced, fermented tofu with ve seasonings is called wu-hsiang furu, and a variety of fermented tofu called hsia-tsu doufu-ru is dried after brining, then sold in paper cartons. Red Doufu-ru (Hung doufu-ru, Nanru, or Nanyu): This product is prepared in basically the same way as its white counterpart except that Chinese red fermented rice (ang-tsao) is added to the brining liquor (to give it a deep-red color, thick consistency, and distinctive avor and aroma) and soy sauce is generally used in place of rice wine. The liquor may or may not contain minced peppers. Red doufu-ru is now available in the West packed in a hot red sauce in small (4- to 6-ounce) cans labeled Red Bean Curd. One popular variety is rose-essence doufu-ru (mei-kui doufu-ru, meikui hung nanru, or nanyu), made in a brining liquor similar in appearance to ketchup and seasoned with small amounts of rose essence, caramel, and natural sugar. The seasonings lend a distinctive fragrance to any dish in which it is served. Red doufu-ru is especially popular in spicy hot sauces served with nabe dishes, meats, and fresh or even live dancing shrimp. Tsao-doufu: Prepared by aging either fresh or molded tofu in rice wine and its lees (chu-tsao), this product has a heady alcoholic avor and aroma. Green tsao-doufu (ch ou doufu), a popular Taiwanese food, is prepared in homes
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and marketplace stalls by placing pressed tofu squares into a crock containing sake less, crushed leaves, and a green mucor mold. After the tofu has fermented for 12 hours or more, venders peddle it in the streets. Chou doufu means foul-smelling tofu. While many Chinese themselves dislike its strong aroma and avor, slippery texture, unusual color, and aftermath of bad breath, its devotees claim that once a taste is acquired for this unique food, it is for evermore regarded as a great delicacy. Chiang-doufu: Prepared by pickling rm cubes of tofu for several days in either Chinese-style miso (chiang) or soy sauce (chiang-yu), this product has a reddish-brown color and a salty avor. In some cases it is dried briey or fermented with mold before being pickled; sake lees are occasionally mixed with the chiang. This tofu often has much the same rich sweetness as Japanese Finger Lickin Miso (p. 31). Chiang-doufu sauce (chiang-doufu chih) is prepared by mixing the pickled tofu with its pickling brine, then grinding the mixture until it is smooth; it is used as a condiment for Chinese lamb or beef dishes. On page 262 are three illustrations of Doufu-ru, followed by 15 recipes for using doufu-ru and its brining liquor in the following recipe types: (1) Dressings, spreads, dips and hors doeuvre (8 recipes). Sauces, egg dishes and with grains (7 recipes). The last recipe, Doufu-ru with hot rice (serves 2) states: This is the most popular way of serving doufu-ru in China. The dish is generally served for breakfast. Some people prefer to use the tips of their chopsticks to take a tiny piece of doufu-ru with each bite, whereas others like to mix the doufu-ru with the hot rice or rice porridge (congee) before starting the meal. 2 cups freshly cooked Brown Rice or Rice Porridge (p. 50) 2 to 4 cubes of doufu-ru (white or red) 2 tablespoons thinly sliced scallions or leeks (optional) Place the hot rice in large individual serving bowls and top with doufu-ru cubes and, if used, sliced scallions. Note: This book contains the largest number of recipes for using fermented tofu, seen (Oct. 2011) in any Westernlanguage cookbook to date. Address: Lafayette, California. 326. Li, Shih-chen. comp. 1975-1977. Shinch ktei kokuyaku hons kmoku [Collected essentials of herbs and trees. Illustrated compendium of pharmacopoeia. Translation of the Pen-tsao kang-mu from the Chinese into Japanese by SUZUKI Shinkai under the direction of KIMURA Koichi]. Tokyo: Yoshundo Shoten. For tofu and fermented tofu see vol. 7, p. 224, 256, and Vol. 12, p. 177. [Jap]* Summary: The culmination of the materia medica tradition in Japan. Contains a very early reference to fermented tofu. Address: China. 327. Circle, S.J.; Smith, A.K. 1975. Soybeans: processing
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and products. In: N.W. Pirie, ed. 1975. Food Protein Sources. Cambridge, London, New York, Melbourne: Cambridge University Press. xx + 260 p. See p. 47-64. [88 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Agronomy: Varieties, cultivation, yields. Soybean composition. Protein nutritional value. Traditional processing into nonfermented foods: Soybeans as a table vegetable (green soybeans), soy milk, tofu (soybean curd), yuba, kinako, salted soybeans, soybean sprouts. Traditional processing into fermented foods: Miso and shoyu, tempeh. Others include: natto, hamanatto, sufu (soy cheese), tao-tjo, kochu chang, ketjap, ontjom, and yogurt-like products. Contemporary processing without defatting: Debittering by aqueous treatment, whole bean processing, full-fat our, soy milk and curd. Contemporary defatting processes: Defatting by aqueous processing, defatting with organic solvents, composite our, soy ours, protein concentrates, protein isolates and textured soy products (recipes for using soy protein products in foods are available from several publications). Address: Anderson Clayton Foods, W.L. Clayton Research Center, 3333 Central Expressway, Richardson, Texas 75080. 328. Gin, Margaret; Castle, Alfred E. 1975. Regional cooking of China. San Francisco, California: 101 Productions. 192 p. Illust. Index. 21 x 21 cm. Summary: This book is lled with lovely woodcuts from the Horace Carpentier Collection, East Asiatic Library, University of California, Berkeley. Only 11% of Chinas land area is arable compared to 80% in the USA, yet today its population, mostly squeezed into the eastern third of the country, is four times that of the United States. The best soy sauce in China comes from Fukien [Fujian] and Amoy. The Classic of Mandarin cuisine reached its zenith around 1800, when Yuan Mei wrote volumes about food; these are still considered to be denitive studies of Chinese gourmet cooking in the Mandarin style. There is one entire chapter titled Bean curd (p. 57-63). The book also contains recipes for: Fuzzy melon soup with bean curd (p. 37). Seaweed soup with bean curd (p. 41). Bean curd soup (p. 42). Ma Po bean curd (Szechwan, p. 59). Stir-fried vegetables with black bean sauce (with 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed and mashed, 1 slice ginger root, minced, 1 garlic clove, minced,... p. 90). Stir-fried vegetables with fermented bean cake (fermented tofu, p. 91). Braised soybean sprouts (Shanghai, p. 96). Clams with black bean sauce (with fermented black beans, rinsed and mashed, and slices of ginger root, minced, p. 109). Braised sh with fried bean curd (p. 115). The glossary (p. 178-84) denes: Bean cake, fermented, and fresh (2-inch squares, 1 inch thick). Bean curd cheese, red (nam gooey). Bean-curd cake, deep fried. Bean-curd sheets or sticks, dried [yuba] (Creamy beige-colored thin sheets. Used for vegetarian (Buddhist) dishes congee or as
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substitute for egg roll skins. Stick form is used mainly for soup... Always soak in warm water to make pliable before proceeding with recipe). Bean curd, sweet (Comes in dried, at sheets, about 6 inches by 1 inches. Mocha in color; no sweet taste). Bean paste, hot. Black beans, fermented (= Fermented black beans. Small black beans preserved in salt. Very pungent and moist. Almost always used with garlic and ginger in sauces. Rinse with warm water and mash before using. Purchased in plastic bags by weight in Oriental markets). Brown bean sauce (Also known as yellow bean sauce and ground bean sauce). Fish soy. Hoisin sauce (Thick, smooth, dark reddish brown sauce made from soybeans, spices, sugar, chili and garlic. Mildly sweet in avor). Soy sauce (light vs. dark with caramel added). Address: San Francisco, California. 329. Gin, Margaret. 1975. Ricecraft [a gathering of rice cookery, culture & customs]. San Francisco, California: Yerba Buena Press. 113 p. Illust. (by Win Ng). Index. 22 cm. * Summary: Page 16: I carefully lift it out with a spatula, spread it with foo guey (Chinese fermented bean curd similar to brie cheese) and savor it as an after dinner treat, a kind of Oriental cheese and crackers. Address: San Francisco, California. 330. Meagher, Arnold J. 1975. The introduction of Chinese laborers to Latin America: The coolie trade, 1847-1874. PhD thesis in history, University of California, Davis. x + 492 p. 28 cm. Summary: Table 12 (p. 175A) gives an Invoice of Stores for the use of Chinese Emigrants on the Lord Elgin on the voyage from Amoy to Demerara [Guyana, formerly British Guiana] in 1852. One of the items listed is 90 jars surd [sic, probably curd, i.e. fermented tofu] peculs. Pecul, a variant of the word picul (also spelled picol or pikol) is a Chinese unit of weight, typically equal to 133.33 pounds. Demerara is both a river and a county in Guyana. The source of this table is given as B.P.P., A.S.S., China, Vol. III, 144. If this product is fermented tofu, then this document contains the earliest date seen for soybean products (fermented tofu) in Guyana, South America, or Latin America (1852); soybeans as such had not yet been reported by that date. Talk with Arnold Meagher. 2001. Feb. 12. His thesis was submitted and approved in early 1975. Shortly after receiving his degree, he left this eld and has had no involvement with it since. He can think of no good sources of information on the foods that Chinese took with them as they left China as coolies. He now lives in Eufaula, Alabama. Address: Davis, California. 331. Silverstein, Alvin; Silverstein, Virginia B. 1975. Beans: All about them. Englewood Cliffs, New Jersey: Prentice-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Hall, Inc. 86 p. Illust. by Shirley Chan. Index. 22 cm. Summarized in Soybean Digest, Sept. 1975, p. 43. [7 ref] Summary: This excellent book for children discusses beans in legend and history, how to grow them, and their future as a low-cost protein supplement. Includes experiments, bean recipes, and games. Contents: Beans. The story of beans. The history of beans. Beans in legend and lore. The life story of the bean. Kinds of beans. Beans in the garden and the marketplace. Beans for the future. Fun with beans. Beans for good eating. Page 2: Kuan Yu, a great war god in Chinese folktales, was a bean curd [tofu] seller in his youth. Pages 12-13, a brief (and partially accurate) history of the soybean, begin: Soybeans are native to eastern Asia. The oldest written records of them date back to 2838 B.C. [sic], when Emperor Shen Nung of China wrote a description of the plant. Also mentions: The ve sacred grains, soybean milk, tofu, yuba, [soy] sauces, soybean paste, soybean sprouts, soybean oil, Engelbert Kaempfer, rst introduced to the United States around 1800 when a ship brought some to Philadelphia [Pennsylvania], Commodore Perry (1854), USDA tested about 10,000 different kinds. Now soybeans are the number one U.S. cash crop, accounting for more then 75% of the worlds soybean supply. Soybeans are used as foods for humans (in the form of oil, our, soy sauce, milk substitutes, and meat substitutes and extenders) and feeds for animals. They are also used in the manufacture of more than 250 industrial products, including paints, soaps, lubricants, adhesives, and fertilizer. Page 16: In China, beans were a good luck symbol. A person who wore a string of soybeans hidden around his neck was believed to possess magic powers to do amazing feats. Three dark soybeans soaked in sesame oil for three days were used to foretell the future. The chapter The life story of the bean (p. 18-29) gives (with illustrations) a simple and accurate description of the bean seed and how it grows, discussing the hilum or seed scar, the micropyle or tiny hole at one end of the hilum, the seed coat, the two cotyledons in which food for the young growing plant are stored, the embryo nestled (a plant in miniature) between the cotyledons, with its two tiny leaves (the plumule), a little root (the radicle), and a stemlike part connecting them (the hypocotyl). When the seed is planted, and it germinates or sprouts, the embryo root pokes its tip out through the micropyle and grows out into the soil. Tiny root hairs form along the growing root. They take in moisture and dissolved minerals from the soil. The hypocotyl grows until it suddenly pushes up out of the soilthe rst part of the seedling to emerge. It is bent over, for the cotyledons are still buried in the soil. The hypocotyl continues to grow. In a day or so the seed coat splits, then the top of the plant pops up out of the soil. The empty seed coat is left behind, buried beneath the surface. Now the young bean seedling is growing straight up. The two seed leaves at the top unfold
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and grow quickly. Below them on the stem are the two cotyledons. As sun shines on the growing plant, its leaves, cotyledons, and stem begin to turn greena turning point in the life of the plant. For a while, the growing plant takes the food it needs from the reserves stored in the two cotyledons. But as these reserves are used up, they shrivel and nally fall off. Now the young plant must create its own food using chlorophyll and photosynthesis. Chlorophyll traps energy from the sun. When examined under a magnifying glass, one can see that the surface of a plant leaf contains many tiny openings called stomates, which are usually open during the day and closed at night. When the stomates are open, gases from the air pass freely in and out. Air is about 80% nitrogen, 20% oxygen, plus smaller amounts of carbon dioxide, water vapors, and others gases. In the leaves, carbon dioxide and water are combined, using the sunlight energy trapped by chlorophyll, into sugar, starches, and other complicated chemicals. Scientists call this process photosynthesis (photo means light, and synthesis means a putting together). The byproduct, oxygen, passes out into the air through the stomates; it is the gas that humans and other mammals need to breathe. Describes the underground activities related to plant growth, nodules, bacteria that live symbiotically in the roots and x ammonia and nitrogen. Also describes the bean ower, its parts, self-pollination, the key role of bees, and how the seeds are formed from the ower. The chapter The soybeanNumber one (p. 36-39) describes the current status of the soybean in the USA. The chapter Beans for the future discusses modern developments such as CSM, soyfoods such as sufu, tempeh, miso, spun soy protein bers, soybean meat analogs, textured vegetable protein (TVP). When a bean seed sprouts, how does it know which way is up? Could you ever get a seedling with its roots pointing up in the air and its shoot poking down into the soil? Supposing you cut off all sunlight? No, plants have a built-in gravity sense which scientists call geotropism. A plant hormone called an auxin causes the plant to bend upwardand toward the light (heliotropism). In 1888, the symbiotic partnership between legumes and nitrogen xing bacteria was rst discovered by Hellriegel and Wilfarth. There are short-day plants, long-day plants, and day-neutral plants; owering will not begin until the length of days and nights is just right (p. 54-59). Bean recipes (p. 70-75). Address: 1. Prof. of Biology, Staten Island Community College, New York City; 2. Translator of Russian scientic materials. 332. Wood, B.J.B.; Yong, Fook Min. 1975. Oriental food fermentations. In: J.E. Smith and D.R. Berry, eds. 1975. The Filamentous Fungi. Vol. 1. Industrial Mycology. New York: Wiley & Sons. xi + 336 p. See p. 265-80. [29 ref]
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: Contents: Introduction. Koji. Soya sauce. Soy milk, tofu and sufu (Chinese cheese). Miso. Other Oriental food fermentations (tempeh, ontjom, Hamanatto, Ang-kak and Lao-chao). Conclusions. Most people in the West are now familiar with soya sauce. For most Westerners, the growth of mould on a food is generally associated with the deterioration of that foodwith only a few exceptions, such as Englands Blue Stilton cheese, or Roquefort, Brie, or Camembert cheeses from France. Note: Molds of the genus Penicillium play a large part in the ripening of the Camembert-Brie, and the RoquefortGorgonzola-Stilton series of cheeses. Koji is the central feature in most fungal food preparations. Traditionally, koji was made in baskets made of woven bamboo, which provided very good aeration. How non-toxic molds came to be used for koji in humid subtropical or tropical regions remains a mystery. In Japan, the seed-koji (tan koji) is made by growing Aspergillus soyae or A. oryzae on steamed polished rice, which in China, a mixture of wheat bran and soyabean our is the preferred substrate. To make Hamanatto, soyabeans are initially fermented with Aspergillus oryzae. A Malayan dish called Tao-Cho and one from the Philippines called Tao-Si seem to be somewhat similar... Address: Univ. of Strathclyde, Glasgow, Scotland. 333. Ho, Coy Choke; Koh, Chong Lek. 1976. Microbiology of soybean-based fermented food in South-East Asia. Paper presented at the Third INTSOY Regional Soybean Conference. 7 p. Held 23-27 Feb. 1976 at Chiang Mai, Thailand. Unpublished manuscript. [17 ref] Summary: The relatively well-studied soy-based fermented foods in South-east Asia are tempe, sufu (soy cheese), ontjom tahu [okara tempeh], tau chiow ([tauco, taucho], soybean paste), soy sauce, and thua-nao (natto). These are shown in Table 1, with the microorganisms responsible for fermentation, substrates, uses, and principal references given for each. It can be noted that only a very limited range of genera of fungi are involved in these fermentations, namely Rhizopus, Aspergillus, Neurospora, Actinomucor and Saccharomyces. Furthermore, within a genus only a very limited number of species are actually utilized, for example Aspergillus sojae in soy sauce fermentation, and Neurospora intermedia in ontjom tahu fermentation. Regarding ontjom tahu fermentation, the fungus used was formerly erroneously listed as Neurospora sitophila (Dwidjoseputro, 1961). The authors then use analyses of conidia color and crossing experiments based on meiotic sterility to show that the cultures on okara tempeh (ontjom tahu) belong to a single species, Neurospora intermedia. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the word tau chiow to refer
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to Indonesian-style miso. Address: Dep. of Genetics and Cellular Biology, Univ. of Malaya, Kuala Lampur, Malaysia. 334. Kozaki, Michio. 1976. Fermented foods and related microorganisms in Southeast Asia. Proceedings of the Japanese Association of Mycotoxicology No. 2. p. 1-9. March 20. [16 ref] Summary: Table 1, Main fermented foods using molds, yeasts or bacteria in Southeast Asia, contains four columns: Name of fermented food, raw materials, main related microorganisms, and remarks (incl. names in other countries). Fermented foods listed include amazake (tap / tapeh in Indonesia, with Rhizopus instead of Aspergillus oryzae), tempeh, sufu, ontjom, natto (soy bean fermented with Bacillus subtilis var. natto; Teranatto is same as original miso, Taosi in Philippines). Table 2, Main fermented foods using molds plus bacteria, molds plus yeasts, yeasts plus bacteria and molds, or yeasts plus bacteria in Southeast Asia, contains the same four columns. Fermented foods listed include soy sauce (Aspergillus oryzae, Saccharomyces rouxii, Pediococcus halophylus; called Jan [kanjang] in Korea and Thua nao [sic] in Thailand), Miso (same 3 microorganisms as in soy sauce). Address: Tokyo Univ. of Agriculture, Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, 1-1, Suragaoka, Setagaya-ku, Tokyo. 335. Bortz, Brenda. 1976. The joys of soy. II. Tofu and tempeh. Organic Gardening and Farming 23(3):128-31. March. See also Part I: 23:28-30, 32, 34, 36, 38. Feb. Summary: Two Far Eastern soybean favoritestofu and tempehturn up exciting new menu and nutrition ideas in the OGF Research and Development Groups latest tests... At this time, Dr. Schwartz is inviting a limited number of adventurous OGF readers to help him evaluate the ease and dependability of his method and tempehs potential as a new food for Americans. Readers who would like to join R & Ds modest Soybean Task Force should write to Nancy Bailey, R & D Readers Service, Rodale Press Inc., Emmaus, Pennsylvania, 18049. Those selected will receive soybeans, culture, and complete instructions for making the simple incubator and tempeh itself. Contains a recipe for Tofu Loaf with Onion and Cheese from The Book of Tofu by Shurtleff and Aoyagi. Note: This is the earliest document seen (March 2003) that mentions tempeh, published by or in connection with Rodale Press. 336. Colchie, Elizabeth. 1976. The sensual soybean: Eating well at bargain-basement prices. House and Garden 148:133, 144, 146. April. [1 ref] Summary: A brief introduction to soy our, sprouts, whole dry soybeans, roasted soybeans, bean curd cakes [tofu], fermented curd, bean curd skin [yuba], dried bean curd sticks, bean paste, miso, black beans [soy nuggets]. With
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU illustrations from The Book of Tofu by Shurtleff & Aoyagi. 337. Huang, Su-hei (Miss). ed. 1976. Chinese cuisine: WeiChuan cooking book. Taipei, Taiwan: Wei-Chuan Publishing Co. 221 p. May. Illust. Index (at front). 27 cm. [Chi; Eng] Summary: This attractive book of Chinese cooking from the Wei-Chuan Cooking School is a bilingual Chinese / English edition. On each page is one recipe and a 1/3-page color photo of the prepared dish. The title of the recipe is written in Chinese in large bold characters and is also given (to the right) in smaller bold letters in English. Above the number of servings is the province or region of China from which the recipe comes (e.g., Szechuan, Cantonese, Peking, Hunan, etc.) Most of the recipes call for to teaspoon of MSG; many call for soy sauce. The introduction (p. 2-17) contains: (1) Seasonings for Chinese cooking, incl. soy sauce. (2) Instruments [utensils] for Chinese cooking. (3) Culinary idioms (basic techniques, such as cleaning, cutting, heating the pan, stir frying, etc.). (4) Arrangement of seating order at feast. (5) Arrangement of the dinner sets at a feast. (6) Arrangement of food and menu. (7) Basic principles of arranging the menu. (8) Sample menus for banquets or ordinary meals. (9) Commonly used vegetables (2-page color photo, incl. 9. yellow soybean sprouts). (10) Commonly used dry materials and canned foods (2-page color photo, incl. 6. fried gluten balls {mien jin pau}). 13. pickled plums (umeboshi). 18. agar-agar. 33. nori (purple laver sheet). 35. bean curd skin [yuba, doufu pi]. 36. bean curd roll. 37. Pressed bean curd cake [doufugan]. 39. kau fu. 40. bean curd wrapper (bai yeh; pressed tofu sheets). 41. vegetarian gluten roll (mien jin). 42. dried bean curd noodles [kan-ssu]. 43. Fermented black beans [soy nuggets]. 44. bean curd stick [dried yuba] (fu dzu). 47. Soy sauce. These two pages also show Wei-Chuan Foods Corp. is a manufacturer of many Chinese-style foods. (11) Description of some other special ingredients. 1. Hot bean paste (pronounced la jiao jiang). A thick spicy paste made from ground hot red peppers and soy beans. 2. Sweet bean paste (tien mien jiang). Made from ground, fermented steamed bread and spices [soy is not mentioned]. 3. Soy bean paste (do ban jiang). A thick black paste similar in taste to sweet bean paste, but made from fermented soybeans. 8. Fermented black beans: Small black [soy] beans which have been marinated in soy sauce and salt and are used to avor steamed sh and meat or in stir-fried dishes. 10. Pickled bean curd or Chinese cheese [fermented tofu] (do fu ru). Bean curd cubes which are rst dried and then mixed with wine, spices and salt and allowed to ferment. It is used to season braised pork and duckling. 21. You tiau. A deep-fried crispy Chinese cruller... * Kau fu: A spongy type of vegetarian ingredient made from wheat gluten (see p. 151). Fried gluten ball (mien jin pau): A type of light, round, deep-fried ball made from wheat gluten
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and water. Su tsang: A type of long thin roll made of wheat gluten and water. Interesting soy related recipes: Bean curd noodle and celery salad (with 4 oz. bean curd noodles, Szechuan, p. 23). Steamed spareribs with fermented black beans (with 3 T. [tablespoons] fermented black beans, garlic, ginger root, rice wine, and soy sauce, Cantonese, p. 60). Steamed pork in preserved bean sauce (with 2 squares fermented bean curd (do fu ru), Cantonese, p. 74). Steamed carp with fermented black beans, Hunan, p. 88. Braised carp with hot bean paste (with 1 T. [tablespoons] hot bean paste (la do ban jiang), Szechuan, p. 100). Stir-fried oysters with fermented black beans (Taiwanese, p. 132). One section of the book titled Bean curd & eggs (p. 140-49) contains various tofu and yuba recipes, including: Ma-Pos bean curd (Szechuan, p. 140). Vegetarian chicken loaves (with 16 sheets bean curd skin [yuba], Shanghai, p. 147). Eggplant rolls with chopped pork (with 1 sheet bean curd skin, Taiwanese, p. 148). Stuffed bean curd rolls (with 8 bean curd sheets (bai ye), Shanghai, p. 149). Bean curd is counted in squares. Address: Taiwan. 338. Revelle, Roger. 1976. The resources available for agriculture: The physical resources of earth, air, re (energy) and water are large but essentially xed. The biological and social resources, however, are far from being pressed to the limit. Scientic American 235(3):164-68, 170, 172-74, 17778. Sept. Summary: Pages 170 and 172 discuss the importance of microorganisms and fermentation. The fermentation process not only adds distinctive avors, which are prized in their own right, but also often augments the content of riboavin and other vitamins. Sauerkraut and yogurt are familiar fermentation products in American diets; tempeh, ragi, sufu, shoyu, ang-kak, tea fungus and mizo [sic, miso] are among those eaten in Asian countries. Address: Director, Center for Population Studies, Harvard Univ., Massachusetts. 339. Bhumiratana, Amara. 1976. Small-scale processing of soybeans for food in Thailand. INTSOY Series No. 10. p. 143-46. R.M. Goodman, ed. Expanding the Use of Soybeans (College of Agric., Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign). Summary: Contents: Introduction. Fermented soybeans. Soymilk. Yuba. Yoghert [Soy yogurt, inoculated with Lactobacillus bulgaricus and L. acidophilus and incubated at 37C for 16-20 hours]. Chinese soya bean dessert (Taow Huey). Tofu (white or yellow). Sufu. Soybean snack (protein crisp; deep-fried sufu). Tempeh. Thai dessert. Kanom ping kaset. Baby food. Kaset noodle. Kaset protein. Note: There is a owchart and photo of each product. The Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University, initiated several soybean utilization pilot projects ve or six years ago. Using soybeans alone or combined with other ingredients, we have
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU developed a range of products, such as baby foods, kaset protein, and snacks. Tests indicate that these foods are highly acceptable, being both palatable and nutritious. Some of these products are soon to be manufactured commercially by small-scale industries. This paper is a description of the soy food processing methods developed by the Institute. Address: Inst. of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart Univ., Bangkok, Thailand. 340. Anderson, Sylvia E. 1976. The joy of soy. Pleasantville, New Jersey: New Life Press. 48 p. Dec. Illust. Index. 23 cm. Spiral bound. Rev. ed. 1977. Spiral bound. Summary: Contents: What is the joy of soy. Whole, dry soybeans (My favorite way to cook whole, dry soybeans is to pressure cook them). Soymilk. Tofu. Sweet tofu. TVP. Okara. This vegan cookbook was inspired by The Farm, a large spiritual community in Tennessee, where the author and her children lived for several years. When I arrived on The Farm, I thought I didnt like soybeans... Now I love soybeans and soymilknot because my tastebuds have changed and Ive acquired a new taste for them, but because Ive learned new ways to cook soybeans so that they taste good to those same old tastebuds. The recipes in The Joy of Soy have been developed through feedback from members of The New Life Co-op (326 S. Main St., Pleasantville, New Jersey), where products made from them have been selling rapidly for the past nine months. Note: The authors favorite recipes are: (1) Grandmas chickenless soup with Kreplach (and tofu, p. 19). (2) Cheezy soybean dlishes (p. 6). (4) Garden salad dlishes (with tofu, p. 21). (5) Pizza dlishes (with tofu, p. 23). (6) Tofu cookie bars (sweet, p. 26). (7) Tofu cinnamon rolls (sweet, p. 27). (8) Tofu-lled carob cupcakes (sweet, p. 28). (9) Okara soysage (p. 40). (10) Soysage dlishes (with TVP, p. 37). (11) Okara spice cake (sweet, p. 45). (12) Dairyless macaroni and cheese (with tofu, p. 15). Address: Pleasantville, New Jersey. 341. Product Name: Chinese-Style Tofu [Doufu (Firm Tofu), Hsiao Dou-gan (Tofu Cubes Fried in Spices), Choudoufu (Redolent Fermented Tofu), Yu-doufu (Deep-fried Tofu), Pai-yeh (Pressed Tofu Sheets), Kan-ssu (Pressed Tofu Noodles), Doufu-hwa (Curds in Whey)]. Manufacturers Name: American Food & Candy Co. Manufacturers Address: 166 San Lazaro St., Sunnyvale, CA 94086. Phone: 408-773-0612. Date of Introduction: 1976. How Stored: Refrigerated. New ProductDocumentation: Talk with Peggy Boyd (415-948-9191), then with English-speaking representative of the company. 1988. March 11. The company is run by Chinese Americans. Most do not speak English. They started about 10 years ago, and make many kinds of tofu plus
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soymilk. Talk with Jim Pong of Pure Land Co. in Hayward. 1998. Oct. 21. American Food & Candy was started and owned by Old Mr. Wu in about 1976 in Sunnyvale; his given name was Mei. He worked closely with his daughter, Cynthia, and her husband, Richard Liu. Jim also used to work there. 342. Hesseltine, C.W.; Swain, E.W.; Wang, H.L. 1976. Production of fungal spores as inocula for Oriental fermented foods. Developments in Industrial Microbiology 17:101-15. [25 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Discussion: Inocula for fungi may be prepared in a number of forms or states. Sufu or Chinese cheese. Mold cheese made from milk. Tempeh. Chinese yeast and similar products (incl. ragi and murcha). Koji. Industrial production of Aspergillus oryzae spores (tane koji). Six desirable inoculum characteristics are discussed. Address: NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 343. Lin, Florence. 1976. Florence Lins Chinese vegetarian cookbook. New York, NY: Hawthorn Books. xix + 236 p. Illust. by Nai Gi. 24 cm. Summary: Contains a great deal of information on and recipes using soyfoods. Chinese food expert Barbara Tropp says this book has the best glossary available, and has very creative and interesting but drab recipes. Hoisin sauce is a ground bean sauce to which sugar, garlic, and other avorings have been added. It is the most popular commercially prepared avored bean sauce. Civilized Chinese patterns of eating were established by Confucius. The second great inuence was Taoism, which advocated a simple diet, natural foods, and the basic belief that proper eating leads to good health. The third great inuence was Buddhism, which was opposed to killing, so advocated a vegetarian diet. The art of vegetarian cookery was initially developed mainly in Buddhist monasteries; later it spread to private homes and restaurants. To make good meatless broths use soybeans, soy sprouts, tough or wilted vegetables, mushrooms, and / or bamboo shoots. To make soy sprouts, it is best to use newcrop soybeans, which have the highest germination rate. This book contains many recipes that call for sea vegetables. Soy sauce is widely used in Chinese vegetarian recipes. Chapter 3, titled Soybeans, soybean products, and other legumes contains much useful information and recipes. A diagram titled Chart of soybean products (p. 53) shows the complex relationships, includes Chinese characters for each product, and shows a few soy products that are not in the Glossary: Fermented soybean curd (Fu ju), comes in white (pai), red (hung) and spiced (la). The many interesting recipes, each with a Chinese name (with Chinese characters) and an English name include: Su huo tui and su chi (Mock ham), Su ya (mock pressed duck), and Wu hsiang tou fu kan
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (Seasoned pressed bean curd). Glossary (soybeans, soybean products, and legumes, p. 208-13; Chinese characters are given): Fresh young soybeansMao tou: Delicious. They are in season in the early fall. They come in dark fuzzy pods and are sold by weight. Young soybeans are like corn and should be eaten as soon as they are picked from the plant. They may be cooked with or without the pods. Dried soybeansHuang tou: Yellow soybeans. Soybean sproutsHuang tou ya: Sold by weight. Best when made in cooler weather. When bought fresh, they will keep in the refrigerator for 2-3 days, or longer if kept in a brown paper bag inside a plastic bag. Soybean milkTou chiang:... usually served hot as a beverage with breakfast. Soybean milk skinCalled by many names [Fu yi, fu pi; see p. 53]. Each region has a different name for it, as does each food processor, and the thickness shape and wrapping may be different. Four kinds are readily available in Chinese food stores (1) Erh chu is cut into rectangles 1 x 4 inches and 1/8 inch thick. The pieces some stacked and wrapped in paper, in half- or one-pound packages. (2) Yan chu comes in sticks. When reconstituted, its thickness is about the same as erh chu. (3) San pien fu chu is halfmoon shaped. When still soft, it is folded into 6 x 10-inch rectangles then dried. It is thinner than erh chu. (4) Fu yi is the thinnest of the bean milk skins. It is paper thin and almost transparent. When dried it is very brittle, and must be handled very gently. It is used mainly to wrap llings. It comes in stacks of 8-10 sheets... Soybean milk residueTou fu cha; [okara]. Can be a delicious ingredient in cooking. What is not used for food is made into a feed for animals or put into the ground as fertilizer. Curdled soybean milkTou fu hua: Hua means owers. These very tender curds are eaten hot with soy sauce or cold with syrup as a snack. It is sold only in bean curd factories by the pint. Bean curd coagulantShou shih kao [calcium sulfate]: A white substance which comes in powdered form. It is use to coagulate soybean milk to make tou fu (bean curd). Tender soybean curdNen tou fu: When some water is removed from the curdled bean milk, it is known as fresh tender bean curd. It is cut into squares 4 x 4 by 1 inches. Firm soybean curdLao tou fu: When a coagulant is added to the boiled bean milk of a different concentration and some of the water is removed, the milk becomes rm bean curd. It is rmer than the tender bean curd and is cut into 3 x 3 x 3/4-inch squares. Pressed bean curd sheetPai yeh: Fresh bean curd sheet looks almost like a sheet of unbleached muslin. When it is frozen, the color turns darker, to a light brown. It is made into square sheets of various sizes. It is used to wrap llings and it is also sometimes cut into short strips and cooked in
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dishes along with seasoning vegetables. Pressed bean curd sheet is best eaten fresh... Pressed soybean curdTou fu kanplain: When even more water is pressed out of rm bean curd, it becomes pressed bean curd... it is almost like a rm cheese. It may be bought either plain (Pai tou fu kan) or seasoned (Wu hsiang tou fu kan). The seasoned curd is cooked in soy sauce and star anise [pa chiao], giving it a brown color. The white pressed bean curd should be soaked in salt water (made of 1 tablespoon salt to 4 cups water) in a covered container. The seasoned pressed bean curd should be soaked in salt water and soy sauce. If stored in the coldest part of the refrigerator, they will keep for several weeks. Fried soybean curdYu tou fu:... The bean curd is cut into 1 inch cubes and deep fried in oil until a golden crust forms outside, which the inside... remains soft. It is sold by weight, usually in half- or one-pound bags. Wheat glutenMien ching: (p. 217). Deep-fried glutenYu mien ching: Fresh or dried wheat glutenKao fu: Glossary (condiments and seasonings, p. 219-23): Soy sauceChiang yu: The most important seasoning liquid in Chinese cooking. Comes in light or dark, thick or thin. Dark or thick is Lao chou. Light or thin is Sheng chou. Soy sauce also comes in different avors, such as mushroom soy sauce and, for nonvegetarians, shrimp roe soy sauce. Flavored soy sauces are used mainly for dips and for special avors in salads, noodles, and as a nal touch to a dish. Note 2: This is the earliest document seen (June 2011) that uses the term mushroom soy sauce to refer to a type of dark soy sauce avored with mushrooms. Salted black beansTou shih: These beans [fermented soybeans] are used to avor bland foods, such as eggplant or bean curd. They are never eaten alone. Brown bean sauceYan shai shih: Made from fermented soybeans and wheat our mixed with salt and water. The beans in the sauce may be either ground (to make ground brown bean sauceMo yen shih), or left whole. To this basic beans sauce, spice and other seasonings are added [in different proportions], creating many varieties in different regions of China. In Szechuan, large amounts of hot peppers and crush Szechuan peppercorns are added; in the northern provinces, garlic and scallions are used;... Hoisin sauceHai hsien chiang: A ground bean sauce to which sugar, garlic, and other avorings have been added. It is the most popular commercially prepared avored bean sauce. It is used for cooking, or very often as a dip for deepfried batter-dipped vegetables. Sesame pasteChih ma chiang: Sesame oilMa yu: 344. Nix, Janeth Johnson. 1976. Adventures in oriental cooking. San Francisco, California: Ortho Book Division, Chevron Chemical Company. 96 p. Illust. (color). 28 cm. Ortho book series.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: By Oriental this book means mostly China and Japan. Soy related: Crisp chicken teriyaki (with soy sauce made into teriyaki sauce, p. 14). Tofu salad (with 1 pound soybean cake, p. 15). Fu yu spareribs (with cup fu yu, fermented bean cake, p. 19). The section on Ingredients and equipment (p. 22-31) begins with a full-page color photo in which we can clearly see: Azumaya tofu in a white plastic lm-sealed tub, a plastic bag of salted black bean (ingredients: Black beans, ginger and salt), small pieces of deep-fried tofu, miso in plastic tubs, Kikkoman soy sauce in a large rectangular can, Aji-noMoto in a red can, etc. The text discusses: Soy sauce (The one essential ingredient in Chinese and Japanese cooking). Japanese sauces, seasonings, and pickles (For example, besides soy sauce, you can nd low-sodium soy sauce {for specialized diets}, sukiyaki sauce, teriyaki sauce, and soup base for noodles, p. 24). Note: This is the earliest English language document seen (May 2011) that mentions low-sodium soy sauce. Chinese sauces, seasonings, and pickles, incl. the following which contain soy sauce: oyster sauce, brown bean sauce, Szechwan bean sauce, sweet bean sauce, hot bean sauce. Fermented black beans. Bean cakefresh and fried (Soybean cake is almost as much a staple in Oriental cooking as rice. The regular type is called tofu in Japan and dow-foo in Chinese. But there are other varieties: softer, rmer, dried, fried {comes in cubes, squares, and oblongs...} Fermented bean cake, also called red bean curd, white bean curd, or fu yu, is often sold in jars. Miso, used mainly in Japanese cooking, comes in many colors). Bean sprouts mean mung bean sprouts. Foods from the sea include Japanese kombu and nori. In this same section is a sub-section (p. 30-31) titled The language of Oriental cooking, a glossary that includes: Aburage. Age-zushi. Aka-miso. Buta-dofu (Pork with soybean cake). Dow foo pok (Fried soybean cake). Fu yu (Fermented soybean cake, used as a seasoning). Hoisin (Thick, slightly sweet Chinese sauce made from a soybean base). Kitsune-zushi: See Age-zushi. Miso (Red or white soybean paste). Miso shiru (Japanese miso soup). Miso-yaki (Broiled food that has been marinated in miso). Monosodium glutamate (A white, crystalline avor-enhancing agent). Nori. Norimaki. Shiro miso (White soybean paste). Shoyu (Japanese soy sauce). Sukiyaki. Sumiso. Suribachi. Surikogi. Tempura. Teriyaki. Tofu. Umeboshi. Wakame. Wok. Yin and Yang. Soy related: Miso soup recipes (3, p. 34). Age-zushi (p. 52). Melting spareribs with black bean sauce (with 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, p. 63). Pork roast with miso (p. 64). Stuffed bean cake (with fried bean cake, p. 64). Sukiyaki (with 1 pound square tofu {soybean cake} cut into 1-inch squares, p. 66-67). In the section on Oriental vegetables is a long sub-
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section titled Soybeans (with a color photo of green soybeans growing on a plant, p. 94-95) which includes how to grow them in a home garden. The soybean plant has its own time clock, which gets its signal for owering from the sky. Short nights (long days) delay owering; long nights (short days) speed up owering. Soybeans need a special inoculant of nitrogen-xing bacteria. Describes how to cook and shell the beans in the pods, and to serve them cool, while still in the pod, as is commonly done in Japan. 345. Quebral, Florendo C.; Cagampang, I.C.; Herrera, W.A.T.; Mendoza, E.R.; Mondragon, R.L.; Payumo, E.M.; Ragus, L.N. 1976. The Philippines recommends for soybean 1976. Los Banos, Laguna, Philippines: PCARR. vi + 68 p. Illust. 24 cm. Reissued in 1978. [50 ref] Summary: Contents. Foreword. Acknowledgment. Introduction. 1. Nutritive value. 2. Utilization. 3. Cost and return analysis of soybean production. 4. Marketing. 5. Cultural management: Selection of varieties, adaptation (soil and climate requirements), land preparation, inoculation, planting, water management, fertilization, crop protection. 6. Post-harvest handling: Threshing, drying, storage. 7. Soybeans in multiple cropping. 8. Seed production. 9. References. Appendices: A. Standardization of soybean. B. Multifarious uses and preparation of soybean and by-products. C. Climate in the Philippines. D. Available inoculants and their distributors. E. Symptoms and rst aids for pesticide poisoning. F. Addresses of manufacturers and distributors of pesticides. G. Glossary. Appendix tables. Tables. Figures. A summary of soybean area, production, and yield in the Philippines, 1959-1975 follows: The number of hectares used for planting soybeans went from 1,690 ha. in 1959 up to 2,200 ha. in 1962, and then decreased annually until it was only 1,240 ha. in 1973. However, a record high of 2,780 ha. was reached in 1974, followed by 2,018 ha. in 1975. Production of soybeans was low in 1959-60, only 571.8 and 981.3 tons, respectively. By 1962, however, production had increased to 2,066.9 tons, but decreased steadily over the years until 1974. In 1974, a maximum of 2,214.0 tons was produced. The corresponding annual yields (tons/ha.) reect the sharp rise of soybean production in 1961-62 and the ensuing decline of the industry throughout the rest of the 1960s and early 1970s, until 1974, when production soared to new heights. Address: PCARR (Philippine Council for Agriculture and Resources Research), Los Baos, Laguna, Philippines. 346. Wang, H.L.; Mustakas, G.C.; Wolf, W.J.; Wang, L.C.; Hesseltine, C.W.; Bagley, E.B. 1976. An inventory of information on the utilization of unprocessed and simply processed soybeans as human food. Peoria, Illinois: USDA Northern Regional Research Center, Interdepartmental Report. AID AG/TAB-225-12-76. 197 p. AID contract report.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Undated. No index. 27 cm. Spiral bound. [65 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Home and village traditional soybean foods by country. 1. Soybean food uses and production in Asia. Soaking dry soybeans. In China: Tou chiang (soybean milk; preparation, ways of serving), tou fu (soybean curd; yen-lu is the Chinese name for nigari), tou fu nao (soft curd), tou fu kan (dry / rm bean curd), chien chang (pressed tofu sheets), yu tou fu (fried tou fu), tung tou fu (frozen tou fu), tou fu pi (protein-lipid lm; yuba), huang tou ya (yellow bean sprout or soybean sprout), mao tou (hairy bean, green soybean, or immature soybean), dry soybeans (roasting and frying, stewing and boiling), roasted soybean our. Fermented soybean foods. Production and consumption of soybeans (China and Taiwan). Japan: Tofu (soybean curd), kinugoshi tofu, processed tofu products (aburage or age, nama-age and ganmo), kori tofu (dried-frozen tofu), yaki tofu (grill tofu), yuba (proteinlipid lm), soybean milk, g (ground soybean mash), daizu no moyashi (soybean sprouts), edamame (green vegetable soybeans), whole soybeans, kinako. Fermented soybean foods: Production and consumption. Korea: Tubu (soybean curd), soybean sprouts, whole soybeans (green soybeans, parched or roasted soybeans, boiled soybeans), soybean our, soysauce, bean paste [Korean soybean miso], natto (no Korean name is given), production and consumption of soybeans. Indonesia: Tahu or tahoo (soybean curd), bubuk kedele (soybean powder), tempe kedele, tempe gembus [the name in Central and East Java for okara tempeh], oncom tahu [the name in West Java for okara onchom], other soybean products (soybean sprouts, green soybeans, roasted and boiled soybeans, kecap or soysauce, tauco or bean paste [miso]), food mixtures (Saridele, Tempe-sh-rice or TFR, Soy-rice baby food, soybean residue [okara]-sh-rice), production and consumption of soybeans. Thailand. Philippines: Soybean sprouts, soybean coffee, soybean cake (made from equal amounts of soybean our and wheat our), soybean milk, tou fu and processed tou fu products, production and consumption. Burma. India. Malaysia. Nepal. Singapore. Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Vietnam. West Asia [Middle East; Iran and Turkey]. References Soybean food uses in Asia. 2. Soybean food uses and production in Africa. Ethiopia: Injera, wots and allichas, kitta, dabbo, dabokolo, porridge. Kenya. Morocco. Nigeria: Whole soybeans, soybean paste, corn-soy mixtures (soy-ogi). Tanzania. Uganda. Production. ReferencesSoybean food uses in Africa. 3. Soybean food uses and production in Europe [both Eastern and Western]. 4. Soybean food uses and production in Latin America. Argentina. Bolivia. Brazil. Chile. Colombia. Ecuador. Guyana. Paraguay. Peru. Uruguay. Venezuela (fried arepas with textured soy). Mexico: New village process, commercial developments of soy-based food products, Gilford Harrison, Ruth Orellana, Seguras
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Social. Honduras. Costa Rica. Panama. Dominican Republic. Jamaica. Haiti. Trinidad. ReferencesSoybean food uses in Latin America. 5. Soybean food uses and production in North America. United States: Oriental populations, vegetarian communes, The Farm in Tennessee. Canada. ReferencesSoybean food uses in North America. 6. Soybean food uses in Oceania. Australia. New Zealand. 7. Summary of soybean food uses. Traditional soybean foods: Soybean milk, soybean curd and processed soybean curd products, protein-lipid lm, soybean sprout, tempe (tempeh), green soybeans, boiled soybeans, roasted soybeans, soybean our, soysauce, fermented soybean paste, fermented whole soybeans [Toushih, hamanatto], natto, fermented soybean curd. Experimental soybean foods: Whole soybean foods, soybean paste, soy our, soy beverage. Production and consumption. 8. Recent simple soybean processes, other than traditional. Simple village process for processing whole soybeans: Equipment, process, sanitation requirements, quality of product, evaluation of product in formulas and procedures for family and institutional use in developing countries. NRRC village process. Foods from whole soybeans developed at the University of Illinois (drum dried akes, canned and homecooked soybeans, soy beverages and beverage products, spreads, snacks). Ways of cooking and serving soybeans in the American diet. 9. Industrial processes. Industrial production and selling prices of edible soybean protein products. 10. Barriers to acceptability and utilization of soybeans in food and research recommendations: Availability. Cultural and social factors. Texture. Flavor. Nutrition and food safety. Technology development. Technology transfer. Research recommendations [concerning each of the above barriers]. Concerning Morocco: Cereal-soy blends have been used extensively in Morocco; in scal year 1974 some 14.7 million lb were shipped to Morocco. Mmbaga (1975) reported that soy our is being used in making porridge, with 1 part soy our to 3 parts maize / corn our. Tables show: (1) Soybean production and imports in Taiwan, 1962-1975 (tonnes = metric tons, p. 33). Production rose from a 53,000 tonnes in 1962 to a peak of 75,200 tonnes in 1967, then fell to 61,900 tonnes in 1975. Imports skyrocketed from 62,400 tonnes in 1962 to a record 827,300 tonnes in 1975. (2) Consumption of soybean foods in Taiwan, 1964-1974 (kg/capita/year, p. 34). Total soybean foods not including tofu rose from 1.08 kg in 1964 to a peak of 2.61 kg in 1972 then fell to 1.99 kg in 1974. Consumption of tofu (80% water) rose from 18.75 kg in 1964 to a peak of 33.89 kg in 1972, then fell to 32.04 kg in 1974. (3) Supply and disposition of soybeans in Japan, 1971-1974 (p. 49). Total supply is beginning stocks, plus domestic production, and imports. Total disposition is crushing, plus traditional foods and feed. In 1974 imports accounted for 87.5% of the supply, and crushing accounted for 71.0% of the disposition.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (4) Whole soybeans used in the production of traditional foods in Japan, 1970-74 (tonnes / metric tons, p. 50). Tofu and others rose from 508,000 in 1970 to 539,000 in 1974. Miso rose from 177,000 in 1970 to 192,000 in 1974. Shoyu rose from 13,000 in 1970 to 14,000 in 1974. (5) Defatted soybean meal used in the production of traditional foods in Japan, 1970-74 (tonnes / metric tons, p. 51). Shoyu rose from 163,000 in 1970 to 176,000 in 1974. Tofu and others was constant at 130,000 from 1971 to 1973. Miso decreased from 4,000 in 1970 to 2,000 in 1974. (6) Production of traditional soybean foods in Japan, 1970-74 (tonnes / metric tons, p. 52). Tofu and others rose from 1,867,800 in 1970 to 2,264,900 in 1973. Shoyu rose from 1,334,1000 in 1970 to 1,455,800 in 1974. Miso rose from 552,200 in 1970 to 587,200 in 1974. (7) Production and food use of beans [various types] and consumption of some soybean products in Korea, 19641967 (p. 56-57). In 1967 consumption (in tonnes / metric tons) was: Bean curd 290,000. Bean sprouts 270,000. Bean sauce 69,700. Bean paste 27,700. Total: 11.6 kg per capita per year. (8) Soybean production in Indonesia, 1960-1974 (p. 65). It rose from 442,862 tons in 1960 to 550,000 tons in 1974. (9) Consumption of soybeans in various parts of Indonesia in 1970 (p. 66). (10) Production of soybean foods in the province of Central Java, 1968-1972 (tons, p. 67). Kecap rose from 914,695 in 1968 to 1,524,000 in 1972. Tahu decreased from 18,570 in 1978 to 17,000 in 1972. Tempe rose from 506 in 1968 to 39,000 in 1972. (11) Area planted to soybeans and total soybean production in Thailand, 19641974 (p. 70). Area rose from 213,000 rais (6.25 rais = 1 ha) in 1964 to 1,016,000 rais in 1974. Production (in metric tons) rose from 31,300 in 1964 to 252,400 in 1974. (12) Utilization of soybeans by soybean-consuming countries, 1964-66 (based on FAO 1971 Food Balance Sheets, 196466 average, p. 150). The countries leading in per capita consumption (kg/person/year) are: China (PRC) 6.7. Japan 5.1. Korea(s) 5.0. Singapore 4.3. Indonesia 2.8. Malaysia 2.6. Taiwan (ROC) 1.1. (13) Amounts of cereal-soy blends distributed under Title II, Public Law 480 in scal year 1974 (p. 152-155). (14) U.S. exports of full-fat soy our, 1974-75 (p. 156). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word tubu to refer to Korean-style tofu. Address: Northern Regional Research Center, Agricultural Research Service, Department of Agriculture, Peoria, Illinois 61604. 347. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1977. Tofu & soymilk production: The Book of Tofu, volume II. Lafayette, California: New-Age Foods Study Center. 128 p. Aug. 1. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. No index. 28 cm. Summary: A rough photocopied manuscript with a yellow cover, created in response to a letters from many people requesting information on how to start a tofu shop. Contents: 1. So you want to start a tofu shop or soy dairy? 2. Setting up
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shop; The community shop, the traditional shop, the steamcooker shop, the pressure cooker shop, the soy dairy, the modern factory. 3. Ingredients. 4. Scientic data concerning the tofu-making process. 5. Tofu. 6. Firm tofu. 7. Using okara and whey. 8. Deep-fried tofu: Cutlets, burgers, and pouches. 9. Soymilk. 10. Soymilk ice cream, yogurt, ker, mayonnaise, and cheese. 11. Silken tofu & soft tofu (Silken tofu is made from concentrated soymilk). 12. Lactone silken tofu. 13. Grilled tofu. 14. Wine-fermented tofu. 15. Driedfrozen tofu. 16. Yuba. Appendix A: People and institutions connected with tofu & soymilk production. B: Sketches of tofu and yuba shops in Japan. C: So you want to study tofu in Japan? D: Table of equivalents. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2010) that uses the term silken tofu to refer to Japanese kinugoshi tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term wine-fermented tofu. Address: New-Age Foods Study Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549; 278-28 Higashi Oizumi, Nerima-ku, Tokyo 177, Japan. 348. Chen, Steve. 1977. Re: Tofu and fermented tofu in Taiwan. Letter to William Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study Center, Oct. 14. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. Summary: The following are personal estimates, with guarantee of their accuracy. The Taipei and Taiwan Tofu Associations have about 1,300 members but there are about 2,500 tofu shops in Taiwan. About 100,000 tonnes (metric tons) of soybeans are used each year to make tofu and its related products. Roughly 1,000 tons of this amount are use to make fermented tofu (doufu-ru). The population of Taiwan is about 14.8 million. Daily per capita consumption of fermented tofu is very small, about 0.5 gm. One kg of soybeans will yield about 2.5 kg of fermented tofu. About 200 to 300 shops in Taiwan make fermented tofu. They are essentially small, family-type operations with 2-3 workers per shop. Address: Country Director, American Soybean Assoc., P.O. Box 3512, Taipei, Taiwan. Phone: 7815880. 349. Lin, C.F.; Su, Y.C.; Wan, Wen-Hsiang; Sooksan, R.; Gongsakdi, S.; Pichyangkura, S. 1977. Chinese red rice: Anka (Ang-kah). Paper presented at Symposium on Indigenous Fermented Foods, Bangkok, Thailand. Summarized in K.H. Steinkraus, ed. 1983. Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc. ix + 671 p. See p. 547-53. Summary: Contents: Description. Patterns of production and consumption. Steps in production. Microbiology. Biochemistry. Toxicology. Economics. Anka is also known as ang-kak, angkak, angquac, beni-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU koji, aka-koji, and red rice. It is used and is a commercial product in the southern provinces of China, in Taiwan, the Philippines, Thailand [and Okinawa]. In Taiwan, approximately 200 tons/year of anka are made. The average yearly per capita consumption here is about 12 grams. Historically, Anka was apparently rst noted in the Yuan (Mongol) dynasty (1260-1368). It was introduced to Taiwan by wine makers from Fukien [pinyin: Fujian] province of southern China about 100 years ago (Su and Wang, 1977). It is used to add both color and avor to many foods including hung-lu chiu (red soybean cheese) [fermented tofu], and fu chiu (rice wine). A number of countries are gradually adopting natural pigments to replace coal-tar dyes, which may be carcinogenic. With anka there is no evidence of toxicity or carcinogenicity. Figures show: (26) Flow sheet for the production of Chinese chu chong (from Su and Wang, 1977), starting with rice (stream 1) and Monascus purpureus (anka), Saccharomyces formosensis, polished glutinous rice, and rice wine (stream 2), which yields 2 liters chu kong tsaw, the inoculum. (27) Flow sheet for the production of Chinese red rice (from Su and Wang, 1977). (3) Flow sheet for the production of red rice in Thailand (from Sooksan and Gongsakdi, 1977). There is one table. 350. Lin, L-P. 1977. Sufu: Chinese soybean cheese. Paper presented at Symposium on Indigenous Fermented Foods, Bangkok, Thailand. Summarized in K.H. Steinkraus, ed. 1983. Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc. ix + 671 p. See p. 553-61. Summary: See summary given at Su 1977. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 351. Su, Yuan-Chi. 1977. Sufu (tao-hu-yi) production in Taiwan. Paper presented at Symposium on Indigenous Fermented Foods, Bangkok, Thailand. Summarized in K.H. Steinkraus, ed. 1983. Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods. New York: Marcel Dekker, Inc. ix + 671 p. See p. 553-61. Summary: Contents: Description and synonyms. Patterns of production and consumption. Preparation of tofu (starting with 1 kg of whole dry soybeans). Preparation of pehtze. Salting. Processing and packaging. Inoculation. Incubation. Microorganisms. Biochemical changes. Stability of sufu. Nyufu. Chinese sufu (tau-hu-yi) is a highly avored, creamy fermented tofu made in a two-step fermentation process: (1) Overgrow cubes of rmly pressed tofu with a mold belonging to the genus Actinomucor, Rhizopus, or Mucor; (2) Immerse these cubes, each covered with a fragrant white mycelium, in a salt brine / rice wine mixture and allow to
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stand for several months. The salty avor of sufu is suggestive of anchovies; most types are soft and pale yellow. Typical cubes are 2 to 4 cm square and 1 to 2 cm thick. Red sufu is colored with hung chu or red fermented rice, which is derived from the culture of another mold, Monascus purpureus. Because of the numerous dialects used in China and the difculties of phonetic rendering from Chinese to English, the following synonyms for sufu have been found: tosufu, fu-su, fu-ru, tou-fu-ru, teou-fu-ru, fu-ju, fu-yu, and foo-yue. Other names by which the product is known are to-fu-zu in Mandarin, and tau-zu (tao-hu-yi) in Taiwanese. Sufu is the name that rst appeared in the literature. Literally, sufu means molded milk, and tosufu means molded bean milk. It is not known when production of sufu began, however according to Nganshou Wai (1964): The Food Encyclopedia, written by Wang Su-Hsiung (1861) of the Ching Dynasty [Qing / Manchu dynasty, 1644-1912] describes the food as follows: Hardened tofu is [difcult to digest] and it is not healthful for children, elderly persons or ill persons. Sufu, which is prepared from tofu, is better because it is aged; it is very good for patients. In 1977 in Taiwan, annual production of sufu was about 10,000 tons and consumption was about 12 gm per person per week. A gure (p. 555) shows a ow sheet for the production of sufu from 1 kg of soybeans (Source: L-P. Lin 1977). Traditionally sufu was made in the spring or fall. After the tofu is made and pressed, it is cut into pieces about 8 x 8 x 2 cm., each weighing about 70 gm. Traditionally tofu was exposed to bright sunlight for several hours to both sterilize and dry the surface. Traditionally the tofu was inoculated by placing it on rice straw, but this leads to quality that is not uniform because of contamination. Twenty or more trays are piled up and placed in a room at 10-20C. After 3-7 days, when a white mycelium can be seen growing on the surface of each piece of tofu, they (the pehtze) are removed from the trays and salted. In the modern method, the tofu is cut into cubes, placed in an oven at 100C for 10 min, then inoculated on the surface with Actinomucor elegans NRRL 3104. The traditional pehtze are transferred to large earthenware jars, each having a capacity of 700 liters. Each layer of pehtze is sprinkled with a layer of salt. After 3-4 days, when much of the salt is absorbed, the pehtze are removed, washed with water, and put into a smaller jar for (about 80 liters, typically earthenware) processing. First a dressing mixture, which is different for each type of sufu, is placed in the jar. (1) To make red sufu, for example, red rice koji (angkak) and soy sauce mash are added. (2) To make tsao sufu, rice wine mash, cloves and orange peels are added. (3) To make Kwantung sufu, red chili pepper, anise, salt, and red rice koji (angkak) are added. (4) To make rose sufu,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU some essence of roses is mixed into the dressing. Alternate layers of dressing and pehtze are packed into the jar until it is about 80% full. Then brine with a concentration of about 20% NaCl (table salt) is gently poured in. For some types of sufu, Shaoshing (pinyin: Shaoxing) wine can comprise part of the brine. Finally the mouth of the jar is covered with the sheath leaves of bamboo shoots and sealed with clay. After 3-6 months of fermenting and aging, the sufu is ready to eat. A description of nyufu is given, based on Okada et al. 1974. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word nyufu to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 352. Kolb, H. 1977. Herkoemmliche Verfahren zur Nutzung von Soja im asiatischen Raum [Traditional processes for using soya in Asia]. Alimenta 17:41-45. [35 ref. Ger] Summary: Discusses each of the following foods briey and gives sources of further information: Kinako (roasted soy our), soymilk, yuba, tofu, kori tofu (dried-frozen tofu), aburaage, namaage, kinugoshi tofu, sufu, soy cheese (Western style), soy yogurt, ganmodoki, natto, Hamanatto, koji, tempeh, miso, tao-tjo [Indonesian-style miso], kochujang, shoyu, and ketjap. Note: This is the earliest German-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word sufu to refer to fermented tofu. Address: Institut fuer Lebensmitteltechnologie, Frucht- und Gemuesetechnologie, Technische Universitaet Berlin, Koenigin-Luise-Strasse 27, D-1000 Berlin 33, West Germany. 353. Lai, M.N. 1977. [Production of chau tofu]. Shih Ping Kung Yeh (Food Industry) (Hsinchu, Taiwan) 9(3):25-26. [Chi]* Summary: Chou or chau tofu is a type of fermented tofu. After deep-frying, it has a special odor and a spongy structure. Tofu used for chou tofu should be rmer than regular tofu. It is steeped in a fermentation liquor (consisting of pickles, dried shrimps, and salted egg) for 6 hours at room temperature. Chou tofu [chou toufu] is usually eaten immediately after deep frying, with pickled vegetables, chili paste, and soy sauce. 354. Anderson, Eugene N., Jr.; Anderson, Marja L. 1977. [Food in] Modern China: South. In: K.C. Chang, ed. 1977. Food in Chinese Culture. New Haven, CT, and London: Yale Univ. Press. 429 p. See p. 317-382. Summary: Page 326 states: Soybeansthe fth of the classic Five Staples (or Five Grains)are usually the most important, although other legumes make a surprisingly good showing in south China, no doubt because soybeans grow better in the north. The soybean produces more protein per acre and per pound than any other common humanly edible
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crop, plant, or animal. This has caused them to become more important than any animal food as a protein provider in China. The Chinese have long recognized their similarity to animal products and, indeed, have built up a huge cluster of imitation-meat foods (probably developed originally by, and certainly now associated with, vegetarian Buddhists). The Chinese lack of interest in dairy products is almost certainly, in part, a result of the fact that the soybean provides the same sorts of nutrition more economicallythough a desire to differentiate themselves from the border nomads and to be independent of them in food economy must also be taken seriously as an explanation. (It is the classic Chinese explanation of the phenomenon but has been dismissed by those moderns who believe that all traditional explanations must necessarily be wrong.) Further discourse on the soybean belongs properly in the following section on food processing, for the soybean is used neither in its raw state nor, usually, in a simple boiled or roasted form. There are good reasons for this. The soybean, being so nutritious and succulent, has been faced with intense natural selection pressure by seed-eating insects and other animals; surviving soybean strains contain whole galleries of poisons and other unfortunate chemicals, which protect the seeds against destruction but make them dangerous food in the uncooked and unprotected state (Committee on Food Protection 1973). Simply prepared soybeans are not very digestible, since heat bonds some of the nutrients into hard-to-digest form in the intact bean. Thus almost all soybeans consumed in China are fermented, ground into our, and then processed, sprouted, or otherwise milled. The soybean is so famous that one is surprised to discover from Buck that the broad bean outranks it in some parts of south China. However in genetically susceptible individuals, Vicia faba produces favism, a condition characterized by acute anemia and other unpleasant symptoms. Other important sources of protein are black soybeans (a variety of soybean mentioned by Buck) and sprouts from mung beans and soybeans (tou ya). Bean sprouts bridge the gap between grains and vegetables (tsai) (p. 326-27). A huge bowl of rice, a good mass of bean curd, and a dish of cabbagesfresh in season, otherwise pickledis the classic fare of the everyday south Chinese world. The New World vegetables stand out as a special class because of their common and recent origin in China and their extreme importance. The white and sweet potatoes have become staples, as has corn. In addition to these, the peanut (Arachis hypogaea) has become the most important oilseed through much of south China, as well as a much used food (p. 328). The peanut came from South America. Today, peanuts have become more important in areas where they are grown than rapeseed. Peanut and rapeseed oils are polyunsaturated and contain plenty of linoleic acid, a
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU dietary requirement (p. 333, 343, 348). Mushrooms and their relatives are widely used in vegetarian dishes (p. 332). The section on food processing (p. 337-41) notes that tragic practice of polishing rice, which removes most of the nutrients including ber. There are many questions about the origins of pasta. Egg noodles probably originated in China. Italian spaghetti is similar to Chinese mien and ravioli to chiao-tzu, but they may have existed elsewhere before Marco Polo brought them to Italy from China. The technology of soybean process is too complex to discuss except briey in this chapter. Most important is the production of bean curd or tou-fu (Cantonese tau-fu, Hokkien tau-hu). Hokkien cooks prefer a drier, rmer bean curd. Bean curd is often sold fried. The skin resulting from boiling soymilk [yuba] is skimmed off, dried, and widely used. Other closely related processes produce the range of imitation meats developed by vegetarians, specically Mahayana Buddhists. Credible imitations... are made for chicken, abalone, and other white meats, and even beef and pork. The West has picked up the idea and developed it much further, climaxing in the production of textured vegetable protein (TVP), but has characteristically!ignored the problem of making the result taste good. The ideal in the West seems to be to make it tasteless (p. 339). Concerning sh farming (p. 334-35): Some sh, however, a pond-reared. Those that have been effectively domesticated are carps. These have several advantages: they produce vast amounts of protein per acre; they do not have to be specially fed since they eat algae and weedy grass and small animals of the ponds and pond fringes; they can live in foul water, and thus in stagnant ponds and market sh barrels; they are efcient converters, putting a large percentage of their feed into growth; and relative to other sh, they are easy to breed in captivity. The rst sh farmed in the world were probably the Chinese carps. However, no mention is made of soybeans being fed to the sh. Address: 1. Assoc. Prof. of Anthropology, Univ. of California at Riverside; 2. Riverside, California. 355. Hsu, Vera Y.N.; Hsu, Francis L.K. 1977. [Food in] Modern China: North. In: K.C. Chang, ed. 1977. Food in Chinese Culture. New Haven, CT, and London: Yale Univ. Press. 429 p. See p. 295-316. [2 ref] Summary: Soybean grows easily as a companion crop with kaoliang or corn. It is consumed all over China in various forms; as bean curd [toufu], soybean milk, tou fu nao (bean brainslightly coagulated soymilk, softer than tofu), tou cha [okara] (the ner remains of the soybean from which the bean milk has been extracted is usually fed to pigs, but can be the poor mans tasi [side] dish). Young soybeans in pods, freshly picked from the eld, are boiled in water or baked on the re and consumed as snacks. They are served with soy sauce and sesame oil and eaten by using the teeth to scrape the beans into ones mouth.
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Other soybean products consumed in north China include: soybean sprouts (eaten after submersion in boiling water for 1-2 minutes), fermented bean curd (fu ju), molded bean curd (chou tou fu), dried bean curd [pressed bean curd] (tou fu kan) (p. 301). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term chou tou fu or the term molded bean curd. Address: 1. Evanston, Illinois; 2. Prof. of Anthropology, Northwestern Univ. 356. Schafer, Edward H. 1977. Tang. In: K.C. Chang, ed. 1977. Food in Chinese Culture. New Haven, CT, and London: Yale Univ. Press. 429 p. See p. 85-140. [34 endnotes] Summary: The Tang dynasty lasted from +618 to 907. Contents: Introduction. Foodstuffs. Sweeteners. Condiments and spices (incl. salt). Pickles and preservatives. Cooking. Beverages. Utensils. Visual aspects. Geographical differences. Taboos and prejudices. Food in ceremonies and special occasions (incl. feasts and festivals). Inns and taverns. Footnotes (34). Legumes (tou) were an important part of the Chinese diet in Tang times. Soybeans (ta tou = large beans) had a variety of uses and received considerable attention from the Tang pharmacologists, who claimed to have discovered that the beans had different effects on the body depending on the way they were prepared. For example, when stirroasted they were excessively heating, boiled they were too chilling [cooling], made into a relish (shih = soy nuggets) they were very cool, but pickled to make chiang (Chinesestyle miso) they were balanced. However when stir-roasted and taken in wine, they were said to be curative of certain kinds of paralysis. The young shoots of a variety of soybean called white legume (po tou) were much admired for their avor, either cooked or raw, and were said to be good for the kidneys (p. 90). Also important in the diet were true millet (chi; Panicum miliaceum), foxtail milletalso called spiked or Italian millet (su; Setaria italica), shu was the common word for glutinous millet and no was that for glutinous rice, various sea vegetables such as purple-leaved laver, green laver or sea lettuce, and the sugary sweet tangle (p. 91), Far Eastern eggplant or brinjal (p. 93), and the jujubewhich resembled the Western date (p. 95). Sesame seeds were chiey of interest as a source of oil, but they were also fried and eaten (p. 98). Concerning animal milk, there is the widespread idea that a line divides East Asia into two cultural groups: One depends on milk products (Indians, Tibetans, and many Central Asian nomads), and the other (which includes the Chinese) rejects them with loathing. Indeed some evidence for this classication can be found at every period of Chinese history, even though warm milk was regarded as a highly nutritious food from very ancient times (Cooper and Sivin
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 1973, p. 227). It seems, however, that after Han times, when the intermingling of Chinese and Altaic customs became pronounced to a new degree, the barrier of prejudice broke down, and by Tang times milk products formed a signicant part of the diet of the upper classes. Probable reasons for this change are given. Milk was modied in many ways. It was curdled to make, for instance, (ju fu), analogous to bean curd [tofu]. Indeed. much more popular than unaltered milk were a number of fermented or soured derivatives. Three of these, which formed a hierarchy, were given special attention and spiritual signicance corresponding to the development of the Buddha spirit: kumiss (lo, the lowest), kaymak or Devonshire cream (su), and claried butter (ti-hu, the highest) (p. 105-06). Fresh ginger had a cooling property if used with the skin intact, but was warming if the root was peeled (p. 111). The section titled Pickles and preservatives notes that the most characteristic and traditional Chinese methods of preserving involved fermentation processes which reduced proteins into their component amino acids and amides by the action of enzymes, ferments, and molds. A very special species of pickle was called chiang, which has been aptly translated bean-pickle. The word chiang appears in altered form as the rst syllable of the Americanized Japanese expression for shoyusoya. However in pre-modern times, chiang was not necessarily a soybean product. Indeed the word was sometimes applied to pickles based on meats and seafoods (Shih 1959, p. 84-85; Fan Sheng-chih Shu)... I shall use the term bean-relish to represent the Chinese word shih, the name of a popular relish of decomposed soybeans that assumes a dark color by interruption of the hydrolytic process or by drying at a high temperature (Shih 1959, p. 87). The name was given to a number of similar concoctions, some prepared with wine, some with vinegar, some with brine, and so on. The differences were frequently local. One authority mentions a variety peculiar to a region in Honan that was made from steamed soybeans, with salt and fagara added. It matured in two or three days of warm weather. It was said that this salty pickle could be kept for ten years without spoiling. The milky bean curdalso known to Westerners by its Japanese name, tofu (Chinese tou-fu)was a ferment made from many kinds of beans and peas. It was an ancient and familiar product (S.C. Li 1965 ed. of Pen-tsao kang-mu, 25:5). Note: The author must be referring to fermented tofu, which was usually made from soybeans. In the discussion of sh farming (p. 102) no mention is made of soybeans being fed to the sh. Address: Prof. of Oriental Languages, Univ. of California at Berkeley. 357. Sho Sugyo; Ka Shiyo. 1977. Shi Ryky-rok [Reports of the messengers to Ryukyu]. In: Naha-shi Shiryo-hen, Sakuhoshi-roku Kankei Shiryo (Yomikudashi-hen) [Naha City Research Materials Concerning the Reports to the
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Chinese Emperor Made by the Messengers to Ryukyu]. No. 1. Vol. 3. Naha-shi Kikaku-bu Henshu-shitsu Henshu [Compiled by the Naha city Planning Dept., Editorial Room]. See p. 28, 37. [Jap]* 358. Shu, Ko. 1977. Ryky koku shi ryaku [A short history? of the Ryukyu kingdom]. Tokyo?: Sanichi Shobo. See p. p. 340, 365. [Jap]* 359. Photographs of brine-fermented tofu (tahuri) and soy nuggets (tao-si) in the Philippines. 1978. Manila, Philippines.
Summary: These three color photographs (each 3 by 5 inches) were taken on 9 Jan. 1978 by William Shurtleff during a research trip (Jan. 6-15) to The Philippines. They show: (1) A container with squares of brine-fermented tofu on a table. In the glass jar are black soy nuggets (tao-si). (2) A single cube of fermented tofu on a spoon held over a sheet of paper. In the small cup are soy nuggets. (3) Tao-si being
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU ladled out of glass jar in a Philippine market. Note: Tahuri (the word is Talog) is made with Aspergillus elegans mold and a little soy sauce in the brining liquor. 360. Bennett, Jean. 1978. Soybean curd: Ancient staple of the Oriental diet. Los Angeles Times. May 4. p. J25. Summary: An introduction to tofu, based on a talk with Dr. Genevieve Ho, home adviser, UC Extension Service; she was born in China and educated in the USA. The use of bean curd in China was recorded in about 160 BC during the Han dynasty. With this long history of development and renement, and with continuous regional and local innovation, it is easy to understand why bean curd has become so tremendously popular in China and in nearby countries, and why so many varieties exist today. Ho adds that fermented bean curd has sufcient vitamin B-12 to prevent pernicious anemia. In East Asia, Buddhists do not eat anything that contains blood. Nor do they eat milk, eggs, or shellsh. In this vegan diet, tofu is a very valuable food. Strict vegetarian restaurants serve dinners and banquets made of food from only plant sources. Main dishes include mock chicken, mock sh, and mock sausage. In our world, with increasing population and decreasing food supply, the soybean is invaluable in helping us to return to original foods as opposed to converted foods. When a food is converted from a plant to an animal food, it requires 7-11 units of plant protein to obtain 1 unit of animal protein. No wonder I am always trying so hard to get people to eat more bean curd. See also The Book of Tofu by Shurtleff and Aoyagi (Autumn Press, Box 469, Soquel, California 95073; $6.95). Includes 4 recipes for bean curd supplied by Dr. Ho. One of these, Hot spicy bean curd, includes 1 teaspoons hot fermented bean paste and 1 pound fresh bean curd, cut into -inch cubes as ingredients. A photo shows Dr. Ho at a market in Chinatown. A comparative nutritional evaluation chart gives the nutritional composition of soybean curd, pressed soybean curd, milk (cows, whole uid), and soybean milk. Address: Times staff writer. 361. Whitaker, John R. 1978. Biochemical changes occurring during the fermentation of high-protein foods. Food Technology 32(5):175-80. May. [42 ref] Summary: Foods are fermented to improve the avor, color, aroma, and texture, and to remove toxic constituents. Occidental fermentations generally use bacteria and nonlamentous fungi, whereas Oriental fermentation procedures generally use lamentous fungi. The following foods are discussed: Cheeses (particularly Roquefort and Cheddar), sufu, yoghurt, meat, sh, soy sauce, miso, tempeh, and angkak. Flow sheets show the production of sufu and soy sauce. Contents: Reasons for fermenting foods. Occidental vs.
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oriental fermentations. Major fermented high-protein foods. References. Address: Dep. of Food Science and Technology, Univ. of California, Davis, California. 362. Product Name: Miso Cheese (Tofu Fermented in White Miso). Manufacturers Name: Soy Plant (The). Manufacturers Address: 211 East Ann St., Ann Arbor, MI 48104. Phone: 313-663-0500. Date of Introduction: 1978. September. Ingredients: Firm tofu, miso. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: Sold fresh in slices in a deli. How Stored: Refrigerated. New ProductDocumentation: Interview with Steve Fiering. 1988. June 10. He is at 30 Newell Rd., Palo Alto, California 94303. Phone 415-326-7123. This product was developed in the fall of 1978 by a person name Jura (pronounced Ju-RAH) McDowell, who was a black American Rastafarian and a vegan from Alabama. He made very rm tofu, sliced it into -inch-thick slices, and embedded it in young, usually sweet white miso in a crock. Some of the miso they made in house, and some they bought from Westbrae, who bought it from Miyako/Cold Mountain in Los Angeles. The tofu was not wrapped in cheesecloth. After about 4-6 weeks they would remove the tofu, scrape off the miso for use later in cooking, then sell the tofu slices in the deli. The tofu was never pureed (like Simply Natural did) to give a cream-cheese consistency. By the time it had been through the fermentation it has lost the rubbery aspect of its texture. It was pretty soft, but we never processed it any further. It was sort of like the cream cheese you buy in a slab, wrapped in a piece of Saran. It was always quite tasty when we would make it. I always thought it was great, and a great original idea. It was very rich, kind of like Brie. We used to love it when we could get it. We just never sold it outside our Soy Deli and even in the Deli we usually had a very limited amount of it. People would use it as a spread. It was quite expensive for us to make, probably over $6 a pound, mainly because of the cost of the miso. That was prohibitive, so it never really became anything. We could never make any money on it. Jura also made delicious stuffed tofu pouches (Ag) and yuba rolls that were sold in the Deli. He did a lot of experimenting. 363. Shurtleff, William. 1978. Notes on visit to Wo Chong tofu factory in San Francisco. Lafayette, California: NewAge Foods Study Center. 1 p. Unpublished manuscript. Summary: The company uses 2,000 lb/day of dry soybeans to make rm tofu, sui-doufu (silken tofu), deep-fried tofu cubes (puffy but not hollow) with no expanding agent, and soy sprouts. Walter Louie says that both Wo Hop and Wo Chong both used to make fermented tofu; they started at about the same time as Quong Hop. George Young was in Charge.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Walter Louie arrived at Wo Chong in about 1949. He stopped making it because he was short of manpower. Note: This is the earliest document seen (April 2001) that contains tofu industry or market statistics for smaller companies. Address: 790 Los Palos Manor, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 283-3161. 364. Beuchat, Larry R. 1978. Food and beverage mycology. Westport, Connecticut. AVI Publishing Co. x + 527 p. See p. 224-42. Illust. Index. 23 cm. [300+* ref] Summary: Chapter 9, Traditional fermented food products (p. 224-53), by Larry R. Beuchat, is cited separately. In Chapter 13, Metabolites of Fungi Used in Food Processing (p. 368-96), by R.J. Bothast and K.L. Smiley, the section on enzymes (p. 378) begins: Fungal enzymes have been used for hundreds of years, especially in the Orient. However, modern industrial enzyme technology probably started with Takamine (1894) [Note: In Sept. 1894 he was issued two U.S. Patents for Process of making diastatic enzyme, Nos. 525,820 and 525,823] and his work with Aspergillus oryzae. Today many industrial enzymes are of fungal origin. These include -amylase (from Aspergillus oryzae and A. niger), glucoamylase, pectic enzymes or pectinases, naringinase, invertase (sucrase), -galactosidase, lactase (Beta-D-galactosidase), protease (from Aspergillus oryzae), rennet (called rennin, if pure; from Mucor pusillus, Mucor miehei, or Endothia parasitica; used in many types of cheeses), and glucose oxidase, cellulase, lipase, catalase. There are also chapters on: 14. Myctoxins, by N.D. Davis and U.L. Diener. 15. Methods for detecting mycotoxins in foods and beverages, by L.B. Bullerman. 16. Methods for detecting fungi in foods and beverages, by B. Jarvis. Address: Assoc. Prof., Dep. of Food Science, Agric. Exp. Station, Univ. of Georgia, Experiment, GA. 365. Beuchat, Larry R. 1978. Traditional fermented food products. In: L.R. Beuchat, ed. 1978. Food and Beverage Mycology. Westport, Connecticut. AVI Publishing Co. xi + 527 p. See p. 224-53. Chap. 9. [69* ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction, Koji. Soybeans: Shoyu, miso, natto (incl. itohiki-natto, yukiwari-natto, and hamanatto / hamanatto), sufu, meitauza, tmp. Peanuts: Oncom. Rice: Lao-chao, ang-kak, idli. Maize: Ogi, kaanga-kopuwai, injera. Cassava: Tap, gari. Taro (Colocasia esculenta): Poi. Cacao beans: Cocoa, chocolate, and chocolate liquor are products derived from cacao fruits (Theobroma cacao). Tables show: (1) Some fermented foods of fungal origin. For each food is given: Product name, geography, substrate, microorganisms, nature of product, and product use. Soy-related products include: Chee fan, Chinese yeast, Hamanatto, ketjap, meitauza, meju, miso, shoyu, sufu, tao-si, taotjo, and tmp. Yukiwari-natto is made by mixing itohiki natto with rice koji and salt, and aging at 25 to 30C for about two
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weeks. Note 1. Yukiwari natto is natto resembling miso, featuring the stickiness (nebari) of natto and the sweetness of koji. It is made by a two-step fermentation. Another process: (1) Make the natto and the koji, separately. (2) Mince natto nely and mix it with koji, shoyu, and dashi made from kombu. Ferment at 30-33C for 30-40 days. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Aug. 2006) that mentions the term yukiwari-natto (or yuki-wari natto). Address: Dep. of Food Science, Agric. Exp. Station, Univ. of Georgia, Experiment, GA. 366. Ford, Barbara. 1978. Future food: Alternate protein for the year 2000. New York, NY: William Morrow and Company, Inc. 300 p. Index. 22 cm. [40+ ref] Summary: The author concludes that soybeans are most likely to be the protein source of the future. Chapter 2, The Cinderella Bean (p. 32-53) and Chapter 3, Soybeans, Oriental Style (p. 54-71) both discuss the benets of soybeans. Pages 37-38 note that soybeans were once called haybeans and their hay was called haybean hay. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that which uses the term haybean or haybeans. The work of the USDA Northern Regional Research Lab. (NRRL) with soyfoods is described at length. While at the NRRL she rst encountered sufu. In Chinese markets, sufu is not called sufu but bean curd or bean cake. As soon as I saw sufu I realized it has an image problemnot as unappetizing as natto, but distinctly unpleasant. Picture grayish chunks of some odd-looking material oating in a murky liquid, like biology specimens in a bottle, and you have a typical bottle of sufu. Sufu looks so bad that my husband, who has faithfully eaten a number of odd-looking sources of protein that I have purchased over the years, refused it. It took a little courage for me to tackle one of the grayish lumps myself but I nally ate one. To my surprise, it was good, rather like a tangy dairy cheese but with a distinctive, nonbeany avor of its own (p. 60-61). Chapter 6, It Aint (Just) Hay, is about alfalfa leaf protein and leaf protein concentrate. Research on leaf protein really started during World War II, when British scientist N.W. Pirie suggested the use of leaves to augment dwindling meat supplies... Piries proposal never got underway during the war because of the costs involved, but after the war he was given a laboratory where he carried out most of the pioneering work on leaf protein. Chapter 9, SCP: Promises, Promises, is about single-cell proteins such as the bacteria Cellulomonas and Pseudomonas (the champion, which can double its weight in 9 minutes). A probable culprit in SCPs is nucleic acids, which have been shown to cause elevated uric acids in humans if used over an extended period of time. Raised uric acid levels lead to gout, kidney stones, and gallstones. Some
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bacteria contain from 15 to 16 percent nucleic acids, a fairly high level. Yeasts and fungi contain from 6 to 11 percent, still a high level. Algae have less. It is recommended that humans not consume more than 2 grams (0.7 ounces) or nucleic acids per day. Address: USA. 367. Frazier, W.C.; Westhoff, D.C. 1978. Food microbiology. 3d ed. New York, NY: McGraw-Hill Book Co. xvi + 540 p. Index. 24 cm. [400+* ref] Summary: Contents: 1. Food and microorganisms. 2. Principles of food preservation. 3. Contamination, preservation, and spoilage of different kinds of foods. 4. Foods and enzymes produced by microorganisms. 5. Foods in relation to disease. 6. Food sanitation, control, and inspection. In the section on Oriental fermented foods (p. 387-91), the following soy-related foods are mentioned: Koji (chou in Chinese), soy sauce, tamari sauce, miso, tempeh, natto, soybean cheese or tou-fu-ru. Address: 1. Univ. of Wisconsin 2. Univ. of Maryland. 368. Hokama, Shuzen. 1978. Konko kenju. Kohon to kenky [Dictionary of women in the Ryukyu kingdom. Comparisons of old texts and research materials]. Tokyo?: Koto?kawa Shoten. See p. 68. [Jap]* 369. Lai, H.M. 1978. Island of immortals: Chinese immigrants and the Angel Island Immigration Station. California History 57(1):88-103. See p. 96, 102. [59 ref] Summary: This issue (spring 1978) is a special issue titled The Chinese in California. Fermented bean curd is mentioned in two footnotes on page 102; both refer back to page 96. Footnote 40: Breakfast may include dried bean sticks [dried yuba sticks]. Dinner includes a main dish plus one small dish. The small dish could be salt sh, preserved olive, fermented bean curd, sweet pickles or plum sauce. Note 1. Footnote 40 refers to a menu listed in Chinese World, 28 Feb. 1910 for three meals served in one day at Angel Island. Complaints about food were common so the government agreed to have the food provided by private concessionairesthe rst one being a rm run by a Chinese man, Fong Wing (Kuang Zhujing) and his white partner. The dinner meal consisted of a main course plus one small dish as described above. Footnote 42. ... pork and mustard greens soup, fermented bean curd (Tues.); pork with greens, salt sh (Wed.); pork with dried bean sticks, plum sauce (Thurs.); pork and winter melon soup, bean curd with soy sauce (Fri.);... Note 2. Footnote 42 mentions another menu provided by the white concessionaire who won the next bid. A similar menu was offered which also included fermented bean curd, plus dried yuba sticks and tofu. Address: Vice president and
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past president of the Chinese Historical Society of America in San Francisco and an instructor in Asian American Studies at the University of California, Berkeley. 370. Perkins, David W. ed. 1978. Hong Kong and China Gas Chinese cookbook. Hong Kong: Published for the Hong Kong & China Gas Co. by Pat Printer Associates Ltd. (Hong Kong). 319 p. Illust. (mainly color). Index to recipes. 31 cm. Summary: A treasure for anyone who admires Chinese cookery, this large, oversized, visually spectacular and beautifully designed book is also rich in culture and history. Comprehensive, with many insights, it contains numerous two-page color spreads. One of the best books seen to date (1978) on Chinese cookery, except for its poor index. Hong Kong is located on the Pearl River Delta in China, bordering the province of Guangdong to the north and facing the South China Sea to the east, west and south. Its cuisine resembles that of Canton. A full-page color map of China shows (with different colors) Chinas four main regional cuisines: Northern (incl. Beijing), Eastern (incl. Shanghai and Nanking), Southern (incl. Canton, Kwantung and Kwangsi), and Western (incl. Hupei, Hunan, Szechwan, Kweichow, and Yunnan). Peking is only 40 miles away from the nearest point of the Great Wall of China, which started to be built during the Chin / Qin Dynasty (225 BC to 207 BC) as protection against invasion by Tartar Hordes. Genghis Khan (11621227) is said to have been the rst to penetrate it (p. 21). The last period of Imperial rule in China was the longlasting Ching / Qing Dynasty (1644-1911) (p. 22). Since ancient times, when the feet become swollen, the Chinese have eaten peanuts and soya beans (p. 38). Buddhist vegetarian cookery has existed in China since the 10th century AD (p. 60). The section titled Soya beans (p. 62-63) mentions bean curd or tou fu (the most versatile of foods in the hands of any cook with any degree of imagination), soy sauce, soya bean milk, dried bean curd, frozen bean curd, and mao tou [green vegetable soybeans] (which make a delicious hors doeuvre when prepared Shanghainese-style). The mysterious MSG (Monosodium glutamate) is a ubiquitous instant avouring; but more dishes have been spoiled by the addition of too much MSG rather than by the addition of too little (p. 76). A large colored photo and accompanying numbered outlined diagram (p. 77-78) shows many different seasonings, incl. Hoisin sauce, hot bean paste, dark soy sauce, light soy sauce, and Worcestershire sauce. Soy sauce rules the kitchen as undisputed emperor. Basically a fermented extract of the soya bean with salt added, it is available in three main types: heavy or black; dark, containing caramel as colouring and light (both in colour and avour). The nest, most expensive, and most concentrated is the rst extraction. Specialty soy sauces avoured with
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU mushrooms or shrimp roe are also available. Black bean sauce is a near relative of soy sauce, being made from salted, fermented black soya beans. Again, mention must be made of the three main types of soya bean pastes: hot (with chillies), sweet (with our, sugar and spices [tien mien chiang]) and yellow, which is very salty indeed... Hai Hsien [Hoisin] sauce combines garlic, chilli, beans and ginger with other elements. A color photo shows most recipes. Soy related recipes include: Shredded pork with dry beancurd saute (p. 112). Chopped soya bean sprouts with pork (p. 113). Stewed lamb with dried beancurd (p. 127). Stir fried chicken with [soya] bean paste (p. 135). Roast Peking duck (with 4 tablespoons sweet bean paste, p. 153). Braised duck with lo han vegetables (and 60 gm fried beancurd cubes, p. 156). Lu Shui goose (p. 157; the Lu Shui sauce is made with 250 gm sugar, 250 gm salt, 2 ve-spice bouquets, 250 ml light soy sauce, 10 slices ginger). Braised sh with beancurd and vegetables (p. 161). Eight treasure beancurd soup (with 4 squares soft beancurd, p. 193). Vermicelli and fried beancurd soup (p. 199). Beancurd with shredded pork in soup (p. 201). Fried beancurd (p. 204-05). Spicy beancurd with ground pork (Ma Po tou fu, p. 208). Braised beancurd with mushrooms (p. 212). Beancurd stuffed with shrimp paste (p. 215). Steamed sh and beancurd cake (p. 221). Vegetarian goose (Su ngo, with 20 dried beancurd skins [yuba], about 41 cm = 16 inches in diameter, p. 227). A fullpage photo shows a quern = hand turned stone mill (p. 243). Sweet bean paste dip (tien tou chiang, with 4 tablespoons sweet bean paste, p. 278). Also: Sweet red bean paste (hung tou sha hsien, with small red beans [azuki], p. 278). Glossary (p. 302-11; all Chinese words are given only in Chinese characters, which we have romanized in pinyin) incl.: Beancurd (doufu). Beancurd, dry (toufu gan). Bean curd cubes, fried (zha doufu). Beancurd cubes, preserved (la furu, spicy fermented tofu); also known as preserved beancurd and Chinese cheese. Beancurd skins, dried (fupi) [doufu pi, yuba]. Beancurd sticks, dried (fuzhu); used frequently in vegetarian cooking. Bean pastes (gan shi jiang). Sauces produced from soya beans and other ingredients: Hot bean paste (xiang shi la jiang), soya bean paste (mo shi jiang), sweet bean paste (tian shi jiang; produced from fermented black soya beans, our, sugar and spices. Substitute: Hoisin sauce. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2009) that uses the term sweet bean paste to refer to a Chinese paste made with soybeans. Yellow bean paste (dou ban jiang). Bean sprouts: Shoots of the mung bean or the soya bean (da dou ya cai), the latter being much larger and stronger avoured. Black beans (dou shi): Salted, fermented black soya beans, Lightly salty in avour. Used as seasoning. Will keep indenitely in dry conditions. Chinese cheese (see beancurd cubes, preserved). Dry beancurd (see beancurd, dry). FlourHigh gluten our
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(gao jin fen): A special kind of strong our, which gives extreme elasticity, making it possible to roll out the dough to very ne layers. Used for wonton wrappers. Fried beancurd cubes (see beancurd cubes, fried). Hoisin sauce (hai xian jiang): A seasoning sauce or condiment made from red beans (hong dou) [azuki], soya beans, sugar and spices. Sweetspicy and tangy in avour. Sold in cans or jars... Also known as Seafood Sauce and Barbecue Sauce. Hot bean paste (see bean paste). Lu Shui sauce (lu shui zhi, in Cantonese Lu Soy). A master sauce or more accurately, a stock made with soy sauce, sugar, ve spices and ginger. Used for simmering foods, particularly poultry, It gives a rich avour and deep brown colour. For recipe see p. 157. Note: Widely used in Shanghai, and in Jiangsu and Zhejiang provinces). Mao tou green peas (mao dou): Small beans, grown in the north, with dark-green, slightly hairy pods, which should be removed. Substitute: lima beans. Monosodium glutamate. Oyster sauce (hau you): A viscous dark-brown sauce made from oysters and soy sauce through a process of fermentation. Used as a avouring and/or colouring agent ad as a condiment. Sold in bottles. Preserved beancurd (see beancurd cubes, preserved). Red beans (hong dou), [azuki]. Soya bean paste (see bean paste). Sweet bean paste (see bean paste). Yellow bean paste (see bean paste). Talk with Cecilia Chiang, founder of The Mandarin restaurant in San Francisco. 2009. Feb. 16. She has this book. The authors of this book are not well known in China; they are mostly amateurs. The best Chinese cookbooks are written by Fu Peimei, a lady who was a real authority on all the different styles of Chinese cooking; she is no longer living. Many of her cookbooks are in both English and Chinese. Concerning Bean paste, some of these are no longer available in the USA. Cecilia says Sweet bean paste may be something like tien mien chiang. Hoisin sauce is not used in Beijing, Shanghai, or anywhere in northern China; it is used mainly in Canton and south China. Cecilia thinks Sweet bean paste (tien shih chiang, p. 303) may be used only in Hong Kong. Most Chinese have never heard of this kind of sweet bean paste. True Cantonese food is quite different from that of Hong Kong. Cecilia knows Cantonese cooking very well; she goes there several times every year. Cantonese make the best soups, the best steamed sh and steamed chicken, and also their famous pork sausage (la chong?). Beijing cookery uses hard tofu, but most soft and silky tofu is imported from Japan. 371. Smith, Allan K.; Circle, S.J. eds. 1978. Soybeans: Chemistry and technology. Vol. 1. Proteins. Revised. Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. xiii + 470 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [500+ ref] Summary: This revised edition contains relatively few, unimportant changes from the original, classic 1972 edition. The following changes have been made: Addition of a 7-line preface to the revised second printing dated 4 Oct. 1977,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU updating of a graph of U.S. soybean production (p. 1). Updating (to 1976) of a table on U.S. and world production of important oilseeds (soybeans, cottonseeds, peanuts, sunower, rape, sesame) (p. 2). Minor textual changes on pages 18-19. Addition of a table showing distribution of the 3 leading soybean varieties in 14 major states and the percentage of acreage harvested for each variety in 1976 (e.g., in Illinois, Williams accounted for 25.1% of harvested acreage, Amsoy 17.3%, and Wayne 12.8%). And updating of a table on U.S. soybean production by state showing acreage harvested, yield per acre, and production for 1974, 1975, and 1976 (p. 32). The foreword, chapter titles, and index have not been changed at all. Note: Vol. 2 was never published. Address: 1. Oilseeds protein consultant, Hot Springs, Arkansas; 2. Oilseed protein consultant, Protein Technology, Richardson, Texas. 372. Wu, Jingrong. 1978. A Chinese-English dictionary. Beijing, China: Shang wu yin shu guan. 976 p. 27 cm. [Eng; Chi] Summary: This comprehensive dictionary uses pinyin romanization / transliteration, with accents; Chinese characters are given and denitions are in English. It contains over 6,000 single-character entries, including characters with variant tones. There are over 50,000 compound-character entries and over 70,000 compound words, set phrases and examples. The Chinese title is Han Ying ci dan. Soy-related terms include: Page 92: chi, douchi; see Douchi below. Page 125: Dadou (soybean, soya bean). Page 164: Doubanjiang (thick broad-bean sauce). Doubing (defatted soya bean cake; bean cake). Douchi (fermented soya beans, salted or otherwise [soy nuggets]). Doufu (bean curd [tofu]). Doufufang (bean-curd plant [tofu shop]). Doufugan (dried bean curd [pressed tofu]). Doufunaor (jellied bean curd). Doufuru (fermented bean curd). Doufupi (skin of soya bean milk [yuba]; thin sheets of bean curd). Doujiang (soya-bean milk). Douqi (bean stalk). Dousha (sweetened bean paste). Douyou (soya-bean oil). Douzha (residue from beans after making soya-bean milk; bean dregs [okara]). Douzhipin (bean products [soyfoods]). Pages 210-11: Fu (rotten, putrid). Furu (fermented bean curd). Fuzhu (dried bean milk cream in tight rolls [dried yuba sticks]). Page 294: Huangdou (soya bean, soybean [yellow soybean]). Page 324: Jia (pod). Jiaguo (pod, legume). Pages 336-37: Jiang (1. A thick sauce made from soya beans, our, etc. 2. Cooked or picked in soy sauce, such as pork or braised pork; tomato sauce, ketchup). Jiangcai (vegetables pickled in soy sauce, pickles). Jiangyou (soy sauce, soy). Jiangyuan (a shop making and selling sauce, pickles; sauce and pickle shop).
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Page 459: Maodou (young soya bean [edamame, green vegetable soybean]). Pages 470-71: Mianjin (gluten [wheat gluten]). Miao (young plant, seedling). Page 487: Nai (breasts, milk, suckle, breast-feed [dounai = soymilk]). Page 553: Qi (beanstalk). Page 561: Qu (leaven, yeast, Aspergillus [koji]). Page 661: Taijiquan (a kind of traditional Chinese shadow boxing [taichi]). Page 957-59. PinyinWade-Giles conversion tables. Page 972: A brief Chinese chronology [of dynasties]. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word doufugan to refer to Chinese-style tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term doufupi (regardless of hyphenation or spacing) to refer to yuba. Address: Peking, China. 373. Birnbaum, Alfred. 1979. Re: Comments on new condensed edition of The Book of Tofu. Letter to William Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study Center, Jan. 26. 1 p. Handwritten (in pencil) and signed. Summary: He received the condensed version from Shurtleff and Aoyagi. I think that the compact format should reach a large readership. Excellent work! I particularly liked your having created a separate section on Fermented Tofu, and of course I noticed your updating the sections on natt, Daitokuji natt & hamanatt. No doubt you did considerable revision. On rereading some parts of the original edition for comparison I did have some questions (I am not sure if I had brought them up with you or not): P. 312, unabridged. 4 Chinese characters (CC). You have read as Nishiyama Sodo, though when I went there I was told it was called Seizan Sodo. (Incidentally it was there that I had what I consider probably the nest tofu dinner I can remember). pp. 309, 312, unabridged; p. 385 revised = 4 CC. I have always heard this read as Fusa Ryri, not Fucha, though perhaps the case is that same as with 2 CC, which can alternatively be read sado or chado [the way of tea]. Note: Major Japanese dictionaries and glossaries all say fucha ryri. Incidentally, have you seen the new Shufu-no-tomo English translation out on Shojin Cooking ($7.95)? 374. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. The book of tofu: Food for mankind. Condensed and revised. New York, NY: Ballantine Books. xii + 433 p. Jan. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 18 cm. [60 ref] Summary: This book has been extensively revised and updated. Many names of Japanese tofu have been
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Americanized. Contents: Preface. Acknowledgements. 1. Protein East and West. 2. Tofu as a food. 3. Getting started: Favorite tofu recipes. 4. Soybeans. 5. Fresh soy puree. 6. Okara (Soy pulp). 7. Curds and whey. 8. Tofu & rm tofu. 9. Deep-fried tofu: Tofu cutlets, burgers, treasure balls, and pouches. 10. Soymilk. 11. Silken tofu. 12. Grilled tofu. 13. Frozen & dried-frozen tofu. 14. Fermented tofu. 15. Yuba. Appendices: A. Tofu restaurants in Japan. B. Tofu shops and soy dairies in the West. C. Varieties of tofu in East Asia. D. Table of equivalents. Bibliography. Glossary. Contains 250 recipes and 100 illustrations. Price: $2.95. This new edition features: (1) New recipes: Over fty new American-style tofu recipes including Creamy Tofu Dressings, Tofu Teriyaki, Tofu Burgers, Tofu Eggless Egg Salad, and the like. The key to the book is an updated list of favorite tofu recipes plus suggestions for incorporating them into a weekly menu (p. 56). (2) New sections: An extensive new introduction to Soy Protein Foods (p. 66), dairylike products made from tofu (p. 150), dairylike products made from soymilk (p. 302) including soymilk yogurt (fermented), ice cream, ker, mayonnaise, whipped cream, popsicles, buttermilk, and soy shakes. (3) New chapters: Fermented Tofu and Varieties of Tofu in East Asia. (4) New basic methodologies: The key recipes for homemade tofu and homemade soymilk have been simplied and improved. (5) Updates: A complete listing of the 120 tofu shops and soy dairies now operating in the West; over 60 Caucasianrun shops have opened in the past two years. (6) New Americanized tofu names: Including tofu burgers, tofu cutlets, silken tofu, wine fermented tofu, and fresh soy puree. (7) No sugar. Page 110: In Japan, tofu is also called momengoshi (cotton-ltered) to distinguish it from its popular counterpart kinu-goshi (silken tofu). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2004) that uses the term silken tofu. Note 2. This is the 2nd earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term Winefermented tofu (p. 361). In Jan. 1988 a new printing (but not a new edition) of this book (the 13th), slightly revised, appeared. It had a new cover and many new small illustrations. The subtitle was Protein Source of the FutureNow! The heading: The Worlds Bestselling Book on Tofu. Address: New-Age Foods Study Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 375. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. Appendix C: Varieties of tofu in East Asia (Document part). In: William Shurtleff and A. Aoyagi. 1979. The Book of Tofu. New York: Ballantine Books. 433 p. See p. 402-05. Summary: Gives the local, vernacular name for and a description of many varieties of tofu found in China and Taiwan, Indonesia, South Korea, Philippines, Thailand, and
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Vietnam. China and Taiwan: Taiwan, with a population of 15 million people, has about 2,500 tofu shops. There are no statistics yet available on the number of shops in mainland China, but if the proportion of shops to people is the same as in Taiwan, we can expect there to be 158,000 shops serving Chinas 950 million people. Unless otherwise stated, all Chinese terms are standard Mandarin. The t in toufu is pronounced like the d in doe. Chinese-style Firm Tofu (toufu; dowfu or daufu in Cantonese). The most popular type. Coagulated with calcium sulfate (gypsum) and sold in 3-inch squares weighing about 4 ounces each. Contains 10 percent protein. One special type made in Shantung province is called taian toufu; another made in Anhui province, Chunnan, is called pakung-shan toufu. Pressed Tofu (tofu-kan): Similar to rm tofu but pressed until as rm as ham. Contains 22 percent protein. Often simmered in mixtures of water and burnt millet sugar, molasses, turmeric, or tea to create a variety of colors and avors and increase shelf life. Five-Spice Pressed Tofu (wu-hsiang toufukan or hsiang toufukan): Made by simmering pressed tofu squares in a mixture of soy sauce, oil, and ve spice powder (ground anise, cinnamon, cloves, plus fennel and Szechuan chili powder or ginger and nutmeg). Now prepared in San Francisco, it has a avor and texture resembling smoked ham. Soy-sauce Pressed Tofu (chiang-yu toufu-kan): Made by simmering small squares of pressed tofu in a mixture of soy sauce and water. Pressed Tofu Sheets (pai-yeh or chien-chang): Tofu pressed into very thin sheets that look like a 6-to-12- inchsquare of canvas. Pressed Tofu Noodles (toufu-ssu or kan-ssu): Made by cutting pressed tofu sheets into noodlelike strips. Pressed Tofu Loops (pai-yeh chieh). Made by cutting pressed tofu sheets into -inch-wide strips. Each is then tied into a simple overhand knot. Salt-dried Tofu (toufu-kan): Made from squares of pressed tofu that are rubbed with salt, tied together with strands of rice straw, and hung in the sunlight to dry. Hard tofu (lao-toufu): A general term for all tofu that is not soft. Chinese Silken Tofu (shui-toufu, nan-toufu, nen-toufu, or shih-kao toufu): One popular type is like a soft Japanese silken tofu; another is so soft it cannot be cut into cakes. Smooth Soymilk Curds (toufu-nao): Literally tofu brains. Sold in the West as Tofu Pudding. Sold by street vendors in China topped with a brown sugar & peanut sauce. Curds-in-Whey (toufu-hua or rou-hua): Literally tofu owers. Available at some Chinese restaurants in the West. Deep-fried Tofu (yu-toufu or cha-toufu): A general term
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU for deep-fried tofu cutlets, cubes, triangles, or netlike cutlets. Hollow Deep-fried Tofu Cubes (toufu-kuo or cha-toufu): Made by deep-frying 1-inch cubes of rm tofu. Sauted Tofu (kuo-lao toufu): Made by thinly slicing rm tofu and frying it over low heat in a skillet until it turns a rich brownish yellow. Frozen Tofu (tung-toufu or ping-toufu): Made by setting rm tofu out overnight in the snow. Fermented Tofu (toufu-ru): See Chapter 14. Varieties include nan-ru, nan-chiang toufu, ru-fu, mei-kui ru-fu, and chiang-toufu. Soymilk (toufu-chiang tou-chiang, or tou-ru): See Chapter 10. Chinese-style Yuba (toufu-pi, tou-yu pi, or yu-pi): See Chapter 14. Bamboo Yuba (fu-chu): U-shaped, dried rolls. Okara (tou-cha): See Chapter 6. Indonesia: Over 11,000 tofu shops make tofu for this countrys 130 million people. Indonesian tofu (tahu): Similar to Chinese rm tofu (toufu). In many shops, the whey, allowed to stand overnight until it ferments, is used as the coagulant. Pressed tofu simmered in turmeric (also called simply tahu) is popular. Deep-fried Tofu Cubes (tahu goreng): 1-inch cubes deep-fried fresh by market vendors. Served crisp and hot, often with a ery chili perched on top. Tofu Chips (krupuk tahu): Salted tofu sliced into long, thin strips and sun-dried. Broiled until crisp, then eaten as a snack or topping for Gado-gado (cooked vegetables with peanut sauce). Fermented Tofu (taokoan or takoa): Steamed and pressed into thin slices before being fermented. Okara (ampas tahu): Usually made into delicious okara tempeh or okara onchom. South Korea: There are more than 1,000 tofu shops scattered throughout this country of 32 million population. If there were a proportional number in North Korea, there would be 470 shops for 15 million people. Korean Tofu (tubu): Slightly rmer than its Japanese counterpart; not as rm as Chinese toufu. Deep-fried Tofu Strips (yubu): Each strip is about 7 by 1 by 3/4 inch. Unique. Soymilk Curds (sun tubu): Widely used. Okara (piji): Also popular. Philippines: Philippine Tofu (tokwa): Identical to Chinese rm tofu (toufu). Soymilk curds (tajo): Pronounced ta-HO; made by Chinese. Sold topped with a little brown sugar. Brine-fermented Tofu (tahuri): Made like Chinese brinefermented tofu but with an Aspergillus elegans mold and a little soy sauce in the brining liquor.
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Thailand: Thai Tofu (tao-hu): Identical to Chinese rm tofu (toufu). Made mostly by Chinese. Deep-fried Tofu (tao-hu tod): Small (l-inch) cubes of deep-fried tofu. Often sold strung on split bamboo and tied in a loop. Soymilk (nom rua-liung): Sold hot each morning by Chinese. A thin soymilk is called nam tao-hu. Soymilk Curds (tao-huey): Sold by street vendors, topped with grated gingerroot and brown sugar syrup. Red Fermented Tofu (tao-hu yee): A Chinese product. Sold in 2-inch squares wrapped in either banana leaves or paper. Lactone Silken Tofu (tau-hu lord or tau-hu lawd): A modern product. Vietnam: Vietnamese Tofu (dau hu or dau phu; these and all of the following terms are spelled with many diacritical marks): Similar to Chinese rm tofu. Smooth Soymilk Curds (dau hu): Similar to the Chinese product of the same name. Served warm in a sauce of brown sugar and ginger. Fermented Tofu (chao): Similar to Chinese fermented Tofu. Soymilk (sua dau nanh): Identical to Chinese soymilk. Pressed Tofu Sheets (mi cang): Identical to the Chinese product. Yuba (dau phu truc): Identical to Chinese yuba. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word daufu to refer to Chinese-style tofu or the word tokwa to refer to Philippinestyle tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2010) that uses the word nan-ru to refer to fermented tofu. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 376. Wang, H.L.; Mustakas, G.C.; Wolf, W.J.; Wang, L.C.; Hesseltine, C.W.; Bagley, E.B. 1979. Soybeans as human food: Unprocessed and simply processed. USDA Utilization Research Report No. 5. iv + 54 p. Jan. Slightly revised, July 1979. Jan. No index. 28 cm. Compiled for USAID. [50+ ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. 1. Soybean food uses in Asia. China: Soaking dry soybeans, tou chiang (soybean milk), tou fu (soybean curd), processed tou fu products, tou fu pi (protein-lipid lms), huang tou ya (soybean sprouts), whole soybeans, fermented soybean foods, production and consumption. Japan: Tofu (soybean curd), kinugoshi tofu, processed tofu products, yuba (protein-lipid lm), soybean milk, g (ground soybean mash), daizu no moyashi (soybean sprouts), whole soybeans, fermented soybean food, production and consumption. Korea: Tubu (soybean curd), processed tubu product, soybean sprouts, whole soybeans, soybean our, fermented soybean food,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU production and consumption. Indonesia: Tahu or tahoo (soybean curd), bubuk kedele (soybean powder), tempe kedele, tempe gembus [the name in Central and East Java for okara tempeh], oncom tahu [the name in West Java for okara onchom], other soybean products (soybean sprouts, green soybeans, roasted and boiled soybeans, kecap {soy sauce}, tauco {soybean paste}), food mixtures, production and consumption. Thailand: Tofu (tauhu), soy sauce, green soybeans in the pods (tourae). Philippines: Soybean sprouts, soybean coffee, soybean cake, soybean milk, tou fu and processed tou fu products, production and consumption. Burma. India. Malaysia. Nepal. Singapore. Sri Lanka (Ceylon). Vietnam. Middle East. ReferencesSoybean food uses in Asia. 2. Soybean food uses in Africa. Ethiopia: Injera, wots and allichas, kitta, dabbo, dabokolo, porridge. Kenya. Morocco. Nigeria: Whole soybeans, soybean paste, cornsoy mixtures (soy-ogi). Tanzania. Uganda. Production. ReferencesSoybean food uses in Africa. 3. Soybean food uses in Europe and U.S.S.R. 4. Soybean food uses in Latin America. Argentina. Bolivia. Brazil. Chile. Colombia. Ecuador. Guyana. Paraguay. Peru. Uruguay. Venezuela. Mexico: New village process, commercial developments. Honduras. Costa Rica. Panama. Dominican Republic. Jamaica. Haiti. Trinidad. ReferencesSoybean food uses in Latin America. 5. Soybean food uses in North America. United States. Canada. ReferencesSoybean food uses in North America. 6. Soybean food uses in Australia. 7. Summary of soybean food uses. Traditional soybean foods: Soybean milk, soybean curd and processed soybean curd products, proteinlipid lm, soybean sprouts, tempe (tempeh), green soybeans, boiled soybeans, roasted soybeans, soybean our, soy sauce, fermented soybean paste, fermented whole soybeans, natto, fermented soybean curd. Experimental soybean foods: Whole soybean foods, soybean paste, soy our, soy beverage. Production and consumption. 8. Simple village process for processing whole soybeans: Equipment, process, sanitation requirements, quality of product, evaluation of product in formulas and procedures for family and institutional use in developing countries. NRRC village process. 9. Industrial production and selling prices of edible soybean protein products. 10. Barriers to accepting and using soybeans in food: Availability. Cultural and social factors. Texture. Flavor. Nutrition and food safety. Technology development. Technology transfer. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 377. Fukushima, D. 1979. Fermented vegetable (soybean) protein and related foods of Japan and China. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 56(3):357-62. March. [10 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Soy Sauce: Fermented soy sauce: Japanese and Chinese styles of soy
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sauce and their characteristics. Manufacturing process. Comparison of fermented soy sauce with chemical soy sauce. Fermented soy paste. Chinese soybean cheese (sufu). Fermented whole soybean (natto). New fermented soybean products. A photo shows Fukushima. Fig. 3 shows two chromatograms comparing the organic acids of fermented and chemical (HVP) soy sauce. Fermented soy sauce has an abundance of lactic acid, whereas HVP soy sauce has an abundance of formic acid. Address: Kikkoman Foods, Inc., P.O. Box 69, Walworth, Wisconsin. 378. Leon, Sonia V. de. 1979. Tropical foods in the Far East. In: G.E. Inglett and G. Charalambous, eds. 1979. Tropical Foods: Chemistry and Nutrition. Vol. 1. New York: Academic Press. x + 701 p. See p. 351-63. [15 ref] Summary: The section titled Fermented Cereals and Grains gives basic information about the following fermented soybean foods: Tempeh, soy sauce, miso, and sufu or Chinese cheese. Address: Dep. of Food Science and Nutrition, Univ. of the Philippines, Diliman, Quezon City, Philippines. 379. Winarno, F.G. 1979. Fermented vegetable protein and related foods of Southeast Asia with special reference to Indonesia. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 56(3):363-66. March. [22 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Fermented foods and food needs. Tempeh and oncom. Bongkrek (and its toxic-producing bacteria) and tauco. Wholesomeness of fermented foods. Development of food supplement using fermented food as a basic ingredient. Table I shows the population, population growth rate, and average national income per capita in ten Southeast Asian countries. Indonesia has by far the largest population (136.9 million), followed by Vietnam (47.3). Khmer republic (Cambodia) has the highest population growth rate (2.8%), followed by the Philippines (2.7%); Singapore has the lowest (1.3%). Singapore has by far the highest average national income per capita (US$2,510), followed by Malaysia ($720), then Maungthai (Thailand$350); Khmer Republic and Laos have the two lowest per capita incomes ($70). Table II shows the nutritional composition of tempeh, oncom, bongkrek, and tauco per 100 gm. Table III shows 7 fermented vegetable protein foods in Southeast Asia: Tempeh, bongkrek, oncom, tauco kecap (shoyu), ang-kak, and sofu (sufu); for each is given the microorganism used, substrate, nature of product (solid, liquid), and area where article is sold commercially. Table IV shows the composition and nutritional value of TFR (Tempeh-Fish-Rice), as developed at the National Research Institute, Bogor, Indonesia. A photo shows F.G. Winarno. Address: Bogor Agricultural Univ., Fatemeta, IPB, Jalan Gunung Gede, Bogor, Indonesia. 380. Shurtleff, William. 1979. Notes on visit to Quong
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Hop & Co. tofu factory in South San Francisco. Lafayette, California: New-Age Foods Study Center. 1 p. Unpublished typescript. April 26.
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then pumped onto a vibrating screen and down into the Brown soymilk extractor. The soymilk from the screen is run directly into a huge steam-jacketed holding tank. The soymilk extracted by the Brown is run back into the slurry tank. Curding is done in barrels. Pneumatic pressers are used to press the curds into tofu. Vacuum packaging with a Multivac vacuum packager. Then pre-weighed labels are applied with a Hobart. But the labels are too small and unattractive; need two labels per package. Tofu burgers: Run through three-patty former. Arrange on trays. Deep fry on screens in batch oil fryer. Slow. They have an oven for Savory Baked Tofu, which is pre-dipped in hot teriyaki sauce mixture. Address: Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 283-3161. 381. Smith, Allan K. 1979. Re: History of soybean foods in the United States. Letter to William Shurtleff at New-Age Foods Study Center, June 3. 2 p. Typed, with signature. [1 ref] Summary: Gives a brief overview of the history. Discusses what Dr. Smith sees as the bright future of tofu and fermented tofu, and the work of Dr. Harry Miller. I do know from past experience that an excellent fermented cheese product can be prepared [from soybeans]. You will nd a description of the use of soy milk in making cheese an chapter 10 and eleven in our book [Soybeans: Chemistry and Technology]. Address: 4 Nacozari Lane, Hot Springs Village, Arkansas 71901. 382. Hesseltine, Clifford W.; Wang, Hwa L. 1979. Fermented foods. Chemistry and Industry (London) No. 12. p. 393-99. June 16. [4 ref] Summary: Contents: Fermentation: Advantages of fermented foods. Need for more research. Need for a worldwide fermented foods catalogue. Investigating the process. Characteristics and microorganisms. Fermentation: 12 aspects that merit attention. Improvement: Example of tempeh spores and plastic bags. New foods (such as wheat and cereal tempehs). Future of traditional fermented foods (it looks bright). Mahewu. Kafr/Bantu beer.
Summary: Quong Hop is the leading (and perhaps the only) manufacturer of fermented tofu in North America. We were allowed to study and photograph the process in detail, and all our questions were answered. The entire process is described, with illustrations, in Tofu & Soymilk Production, by Shurtleff & Aoyagi (1979) in the Chapter 16 titled Fermented tofu (p. 283-86). Taken that day, photos show: (1) A man standing next to rolling rack of skewered inoculated tofu cubes, which are about to be incubated. (2) Pouring brining liquor over mold-covered tofu cubes packed into empty glass jars. (3) A close-up view of the previous view showing labels of the two different types of fermented tofu made by Quong Hop & Co.Bean Cake (Fu-Yu) and Pepper Bean Cake (with hot chili akes in the brining liquor). (4) A sample of well-molded tofu cubes. Also describes the process and equipment used by the company to make tofu. The soybeans are ground in a Rietz disintegrator. The whole system is run by a control panel from Japan. You must have an in-house repairman for the control panel says owner Stanley Lee. From the slurry tank, the slurry is pumped into a two-chamber continuous cooker. The slurry lls the chambers and cooked slurry exits by overowing. It works well. The cooked slurry is
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HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Finally we would like to suggest several fermented foods that might be possible candidates for future development outside the Orient. These are miso, natto, hamanatto, and sufu. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 383. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. Tofu & soymilk production: A craft and technical manual. Lafayette, California: New-Age Foods Study Center (Renamed Soyfoods Center in Sept. 1980). 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. July. 28 cm. First published in Aug. 1977 as a rough photocopied manuscript with a yellow cover. [223 ref] Summary: Contents: Preface. 1. How to start a tofu shop or soy dairy. 2. Setting up shop; The community or village shop; The traditional caldron shop; The steam cooker plant; The pressure cooker plant; The soy dairy; The automatic steam cooker plant; The modern factory. 3. Ingredients. 4. Sanitation and safety. 5. Principles of tofu & soymilk production. 6. Tofu. 7. Firm tofu, pressed tofu & smoked tofu. 8. Foods made from tofu: Introduction, creamy tofu dressing, tofu chip dip, tofu mayonnaise, tofu cream cheese, cottage cheese, sour cream, tartare sauce, tofu eggless egg spread or missing egg salad, tofunash spread or salad, tofu rice salad, tofu cheesecake (Sprucetree Baking Co. and White Wave), tofu pies, tofu creamies or tofu-coconut cream bars, tofu tarts, tofu turnovers, tofu puddings, fruit whips, custards and parfaits, tofu cinnamon rolls, tofu whipped cream, tofu icing and cream cakes, marinated tofu (fried or baked, p. 166), tofu jerkey [sic, jerky] (p. 166), teriyaki tofu, tofu teriyaki, savory baked tofu, savory pressed tofu (with ve spice powder, wu-hsiang toufu-kan), nori rolls with brown rice & tofu, tofu & brown rice burgers, tofu baby foods, tofu in ready-made sandwiches. 9. Using okara, whey, curds & hulls. Deep-fried tofu (cutlets, cubes, burgers, treasure balls, burger balls, pouches, puffs). 11. Soymilk. 12. Dairylike products made from soymilk: Frozen soymilk desserts (soymilk ice cream, frozen soymilk yogurt, soymilk sherbets, soysicles, frozen soymilk custard, ice soymilk), fermented or cultured soymilks (soymilk yogurt, acidophilus soymilk, soymilk ker, soymilk piima, soymilk buttermilk and other fermented milks), soymilk cheeses (unripened fresh, unripened soft {quark, queso blanco, panir, etc.}, ripened soymilk cheeses), soymilk mayonnaise, soy shakes and energy drinks, soymilk eggnog (soy nog), soymilk whipped cream, chip dips, puddings, custards. 13. Silken tofu & pressed silken tofu (Silken tofu is made from concentrated soymilk). 14. Lactone silken tofu (GDL). 15 Grilled tofu. 16. Fermented tofu. 17. Dried-frozen tofu. 18. Yuba. Appendix A: Resources. People & institutions connected with tofu & soymilk production. B: Weights, measures & equivalents. Bibliography. About the New-Age Foods Study Center. See -page ads in East West Journal. 1979. Dec. p. 4. 1980. Jan. p. 19. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language book seen
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with the term soymilk, spelled as one word, in the title. Note 2. This is the earliest document seen (Feb. 2002) that mentions tofu jerky or any kind of soy jerky. Note 3. This is also the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word quark, or queso blanco. or panir in connection with soy cheese or tofu. Note 3. This is also the 2nd earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term smoked tofu, but the rst that uses it in its modern sense. Note 5. This book was rst printed on 1 Aug. 1977 in a photocopied and rough-typed edition with a yellow and black cover. Note 6. Reviews of this book appeared in many publications: (1) Richard Leviton. 1980. Soycraft (Massachusetts). 2(1):63-64. Winter. An indispensable operating manual for soyfoods entrepreneurs... The illustrations alone make the book a valuable reference tool... a sustained inspiration. The only book of its kind in English. (2) Food Chain (Intermediate Technology, England). 1997. No. 20. March. p. 6. Address: New-Age Foods Study Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 384. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1979. Fermented tofu (Document part). In: Shurtleff and Aoyagi. 1979. Tofu & Soymilk Production. Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, CA 94549 USA. 336 p. See p. 283-86.
Summary: Contents: Introduction. Making wine-fermented tofu at Quong Hop. Red, redolent & savory fermented tofu: White-wine fermented tofu, red-wine fermented tofu, redolent fermented tofu, savory fermented tofu. There are two types of Redolent fermented tofu (chou or tsao toufu): (1) Drunken (tsao-toufu-ru): Age plain or molded tofu cubes in a mixture of sake lees (chu-tsao) and a large portion of rice wine. For variety add cloves and orange peels. Green (chou toufu): Age plain squares of pressed tofu (toufu-kan) for at least 12 hours in a crock containing a mixture of sake lees, and a green Mucor mold. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word redolent to describe chou toufu. Illustrationsline drawings: (1) Fermented tofu on
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bamboo trays. (2) Increase in soluble nitrogen and free fatty acids with aging of wine-fermented tofu (Source: Wang and Hesseltine 1970). (3) Three types of fermented tofu. (4) Molded tofu cubes in incubator. (5) Rolling rack of skewered inoculated tofu (Quong Hop, San Francisco). (5) Adding brining liquor to molded tofu cubes in jars. Address: NewAge Foods Study Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 385. Simonds, Nina. 1979. Chinese cuisine: Bean curd. Gourmet. Sept. p. 28-29, 84-91. Summary: Contains a discussion of regular tofu, fermented tofu (chou tou fu, tou fu ju), tofu sheets (bean curd skin, pai yeh), tofu noodles (kan szu), fried tofu, pressed tofu (tou fu kan), and yuba in East Asia, how tofu is made, and 11 recipes. A full-page color photo shows a dish of Cold bean curd with carrot and celery... The recipe is given. Taipei in the morning in Taipei is teeming with food smells, including the aroma of deep-fried Chinese crullers. But in stark contrast to the delightful panorama of aromas was a putrid odor that deed classication. That bafing pungent smell, present throughout the entire day in every part of the city, I soon traced to stinky bean curd (chou tou fu), a favorite snack of the Chinese. Vendors of this unsavory delicacy can be found all over the city with their portable deep fryers. The children in my Chinese familys house, all great fans of the stuff, used to race outside excitedly with empty plates at the stinky bean curd mans call (The smell usually preceded him by two blocks). This foodstuff is a type of fermented bean curd which is generally deep-fried and eaten with a choice of soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, and chili paste. It is but one of many bean curd products made by the Chinese. When a coagulant is added to hot soymilk, the liquid is transformed into a delicate custardlike substance. Chinese love to eat bean curd in this tender statesometimes adding a little cornstarch as a stabilizerwith a sugar syrup and softened peanuts or avored with sesame oil, scallion and pickled vegetable. The tofu recipes are: (1) Leng teng tou fu (Cold bean curd with red-in-snow; from Szechwan, with ve 3-inch squares of bean curd). (2) Pan kan szu (Cold bean curd with carrot and celery; from Szechwan). (3) Ma po tou fu (Spicy bean curd; from Szechwan). (4) Hung shao tou fu (Redcooked bean curd with vegetables). (5) Tung ku pa tofu fu (Braised bean curd with black mushrooms; from Szechwan). (6) Hsieh jou pa tou fu (Stir-fried bean curd with crab meat). (7) Pa pao la chiang (Eight-treasure stir-fried vegetables with pork; from Szechwan). (8) Hsiang tofu fu (Stuffed bean curd pockets, from Canton). (9) San hsien kan szu tang (Threeavor bean curd soup; from Shanghai). (10) Kuo tieh tou fu (Panfried stuffed bean curd). (11) San hsien tofu fu tun (Steamed three-avor molded bean curd).
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386. So, Enshi. 1979. Taiwan no hakk shokuhin [Fermented foods of Taiwan]. Hakko to Kogyo (Fermentation and Industry) 37(2):102-12. [Jap; eng+] Summary: Includes a good map of Taiwan and its prefectures. In 1976 there were 433 soy sauce manufacturers in Taiwan. Taiwanese divisions of grading soy sauce plants numbered as follows: A (Ko) class, 39; B (Otsu) class, 12; C (Hei) class, 223; others 159. They produced the equivalent of 1,681,870 dozen bottles/month. Each bottle contains 540 ml of soy sauce, so 12 bottles contain 6,480 ml or 6.48 liters or 1.712 gallons. Thus Taiwan produces 10.89 million liters a month or 130.71 million liters/year of soy sauce. This is equivalent to 2.878 million gallons a month or 34.53 million gallons a year. Taipei prefecture produced 46.8% of this total, followed by Changhwa prefecture with 10.7%. Soy sauce was initially made by monks. Because they didnt eat meat, it gave them important protein and fat. Gradually, it became more popular and spread to all parts of China. Monks also transmitted the method of soy sauce production to Japan and all over East Asia. It is said that around 1230 A.D., the Zen monk, Kakushin of Kofukuji, Kishu Yura, went abroad to southern Sung in China and brought back to Japan fermentation methods of Miso and Kinzanji Miso. There are 3 types of soy sauce produced and sold in Taiwan today: (1) Tou-yu, soy sauce (daizu shoyu) which originated in China, (2) Inyu, black bean sauce which is the traditional Taiwanese soy sauce, and (3) Chemically prepared soy sauce (kagaku shoyu) which was invented in Japan. Processing techniques for making Koji and pressurestraining methods have made great progress in recent years. Address: Kokuritsu Taiwan Daigaku Kyoju, Ken Nogyo Kagaku Kenkyu-jo sho-cho, Ngaku Hakase. 387. Barer-Stein, Thelma. 1979. You eat what you are: A study of ethnic food traditions. Canada: McClelland & Stewart, Ltd. xii + 13-624 p. Index. 23 cm. [550+* ref] Summary: This is largely a compilation of information from many other books and articles. On the cover is a color painting of The Gardener (or Vertumnus), from his series, The Four Seasons, c. 1590, by Giuseppe Arcimboldo (or Arcimboldi) of Milano. In Chapter 12, on China, the section titled Meats and alternates (p. 110-13) notes that the soybean is called the Chinese Cow [sic, Cow of China] because of its versatility. Soybeans are used as whole dry beans and as sprouts, or they can be made into a rm white curd called Chinese cheese [sic], which can be used in many different ways. Soybean milk may be used in much the same way that westerners use cows milk. They are fermented to make the favourite condiment, soy sauce. Bean curd sauce is fermented bean curd that is packed in jars and sold as red bean curd sauce or white bean curd sauce,... Cantonese
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU names for soy products are (p. 111-12): Mien chiang: A syrup-like sweet bean paste. Dow-foo (tofu). Foo yu (fermented tofu). Tiem jook (dried yuba, broken into pieces). Wow doo [Wu dou]. Black soybeans. Dow see [doushi, soy nuggets]: Salted, fermented black bean paste [sic, fermented black soybeans] often garlic avoured and used in small amounts as a condiment or seasoning. In Chapter 30, on Japan, the section titled Meats and alternates (p. 336-37) notes that products made from soybeans include: (1) Shoyu, a sweetish soy sauce made from wheat and barley [sic], soybeans, salt, and water. (2) Miso, or fermented soybean paste, used mostly for avouring soups [miso soup]. (3) Tofu, or soybean curd, is a staple in Japanese cookery. Its smooth, custard-like texture and bland avour make it an ideal ingredient. It is extremely versatile and readily absorbs other avours. Many restaurants in Japan take great pride in their tofu dishes. In Chapter 31, on Korea, the section titled Fruits and vegetables (p. 350-51) discusses soybeans and their products at length. Soy sauce is used to season kim (nori) and other edible seaweeds. Soy sauce is an ingredient in hot pepper mash [kochu jang]. Soybeans are used to make soybean mash [doen jang]. Dry soybeans are roasted in an iron pot, then ground, and the roasted soy our is used as a garnish over rice cakes [mochi] or plain cooked rice; children enjoy eating the coarser roasted bits that are sifted out of roasted our or meal. Soybeans sprouts are eaten lightly cooked as a vegetable. Soybeans are also made into tofu (tu bu); a brief description of the process is given, in which the drained curds are left in their hemp bag to form a rm cake, which may be cut, dipped into soy sauce, or fried in sesame oil. Oil can also be made from the soybeans, but it is not commonly used or prepared. Although commercial soy sauce, made in factories, is now widely available, many Korean households still prepare their own soy sauce each fall. Boiled soybeans are pounded, molded into a cone shape, and set to dry until hard. They are then wrapped with rice straw, hung from eves, rafters or ceilings, and allowed to ferment for several weeks [until they become meju]. During the winter, these fermented cones may be stored in huge rice-straw bags kept in a cool place. In the spring, break the cone into small pieces and place in a large earthenware jar, nearly lled with water. Add salt, spices, red peppers, and a few charcoal lumps. Leave this in the sun for a few days [sic, 30-60 days] until the molded soybean chunks oat to the top and the resulting liquid turns black. Ladle out and lter the black liquid, then boil it to make soy sauce. The solids remaining in the jar are used as soybean mash [after the charcoal is removed]. A portrait photo of the author, with a brief biography, appear on the rear cover and in the Introduction. Address: Ph.D. student, Ontario Inst. for Studies in Education, Toronto, Ontario, Canada.
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388. Doyle, Rodger Pirnie. 1979. The vegetarian handbook: A guide to vegetarian nutrition and foods. New York, NY: Crown Publishers. x + 182 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [20+ ref] Summary: Table 3, Daily food guide for vegan adults (p. 30) recommends soy milk, tofu, and fermented soybean curd [fermented tofu]. The section titled Weaning infants on vegan diets (p. 40-44) also discusses soy milk and The Farm in Tennessee. Soy milk is also recommended for pregnant and lactating women (p. 54-55). Chapter 9, titled A pair of unusual diets, discusses macrobiotic diets and fruitarian diets. The author is quite critical of a number of macrobiotic practices and teachings: Studies have shown nutritional deciencies. Restricted intake of liquids may lead to kidney stones and kidney failure. The greatest danger of a macrobiotic diet is not to adults but to newly weaned infants... Dont wean infants on Kokoh... Wean them instead on either milk or fortied soy milk. Page 93 states: Soybeans are among the most valuable of vegetarian foods, not only because of their high-quality protein but because they can be made into soy milk and tofu (soybean curd)... Two other soy products that are widely used in the United States are soy sauce and miso. Pages 9697 discuss soy milk and textured vegetable protein (TVP). 389. Grigson, Jane. 1979. Jane Grigsons vegetable book. New York, NY: Atheneum. 607 p. Illust. (by Yvonne Skargon). Index. 24 cm. Summary: Combines recipes and cooking tips with information on the history and lore of every kind of vegetable from artichokes to yams. The recipe for Mongolian re pot (Shua yang jou) (p. 224-25) calls for (in the Sauce): 5 teaspoons canned fermented red bean curd. The section titled Soya beans, mung beans, and bean sprouts (p. 459-61) notes that bean sprouts are easily grown at home. Soya beans have been grown in China since at least the Western Chou dynasty (1027-770 B.C.). During the Tang dynasty [618-906 AD] in China, Buddhist vegetarians, in their temple kitchens, were the rst to turn soya bean-curd [sic, yuba] into imitation meats, imitation poultry and imitation sh, which they prepared with great tastiness. The practice continues in China to this day. Recipes are given for: Stir-fried bean sprouts. Chop suey. Note: When speaking of bean sprouts she does not distinguished between soy sprouts and mung bean sprouts. Address: Broad Town & Tro, England. 390. Hsiung, Deh-Ta. 1979. Chinese regional cooking. New York, NY: Mayower Books; London: Macdonald. 224 p. Illust. (chiey color). Maps. 28 cm. 1st American ed. Summary: A superb and beautiful book, loaded with beautiful color photos printed on glossy paper. It identies
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU four regional schools: Peking (Northern school). Shanghai (Eastern School). Sichuan (Western school). Canton (Southern school). The Pearl River delta, with Canton as the capital of Guangdong (W.-G. Kwangtung) province, is undoubtedly the home of the most famous of all Chinese cooking styles... Because Canton was the rst Chinese port opened for trade, foreign inuences are particularly strong in its cooking. Note: Likewise, what most Westerners have traditionally thought of a Chinese cooking comes from Canton. Archaeological evidence shows that by 5000 B.C. the people of north China had begun to settle down, to farm, and to make painted pottery and cooking utensils. Written records rst appeared in about 3500 B.C. Later, during the Chou dynasty (11th century to 221 B.C.) soy beans were added to the Chinese diet (p. 32.). Northern soy-related recipes: Fried bean-curd [tofu] (with 2-3 cakes of bean curd) and a color photo of A beancurd factory run by a unit of the Peoples Liberation Army on the outskirts of Peking (p. 53). Rinsed lamb in re-pot (with 2 cakes of bean curd, fresh or frozen, p. 68-71). The Yangtse [Yangtze], Chinas longest river, is a natural divide between north and south in China. Those in the north eat more wheat and soybeans (p. 94). Shanghai / eastern soy related recipes: The Yangtse River has already traveled 3,000 miles before it reaches its Lower Plain where many crops, including soy beans are grown (p. 98). A page titled Buddhist and Taoist dishes, notes that they are vegetarian (actually vegan), since Chinese vegetarians are not allowed anything remotely connected with animals, including eggs or milk. They get their protein mainly from the soy bean and its by-products, such as bean-curd and imitation meat. Curiously these imitation meats (known as vegetarian meat, chicken, sh, and so on) bear an amazing resemblance to their eshy counterparts in form, texture and avor. For some unknown reason, the best vegetarian restaurants [in China] are to be found in Shanghaia thriving commercial center and seaport... (p. 119). Buddhas fry (with 1 oz. dried bean-curd skin [yuba], p. 120-21). A small color photo shows sheets of dry yuba. Eight treasure bean curd (p. 132). This recipe used to be called Princes BeanCurd and originally appeared in Sui-yuan Shihtan (Recipes of Sui-yuan), by the 18th century man of letters and gourmet, Yuan Mei. A small color photo shows fresh bean-curd on a wooden table in a Chinese market stall. Bean curd a la maison (p. 144). Sichuan / western soy related recipes: Bean curd sh in chili sauce (p. 164). Steamed beef with ground rice (with 1 tablespoon {15 ml} salted black beans, crushed). Pock marked woman bean curd (Mabo doufu, with salted black beans, p. 173). This is another nationally popular dish that originated in Sichuan. The woman was the wife of a wellknown chef who worked in Chengdu about 100 years ago;
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she created the dish. Hot and sour soup (with 1 cake bean curd, p. 174). Fish soup (with bean curd, p. 181). Soy braised duck (with Hoi Sin sauce and soy sauce, p. 182). Cantonese / southern soy related recipes: Fish and beancurd casserole (p. 194-95). Eight treasure stuffed bean-curd (a well known Hakka dish, p. 198). Squid and peppers with shrimp (prawn) balls (with 1 tablespoon crushed black bean sauce, p. 202-03). Fish head casserole (with 2 cakes beancurd, p. 203). Steamed bass in salted black beans (p. 209). Glossary of main ingredients (p. 219-21) has entries for: Bean-curd (toufu, incl. dried bean-curd skin). Bean sauce: Sometimes called Crushed bean sauce, this thick sauce is made from black or yellow [soy] beans, our and salt. It is sold in tins... (N.B. Black bean sauce is very salty, while yellow bean sauce is sweeter with sugar added). Bean sprouts: Of the two kinds, yellow soy bean sprouts are sold only in Chinese provision stores. A large excellent photo (p. 219) shows: 1. Hoi Sin [hoishin] sauce in white bowl. 2. Salted black beans in can. 3. Light soy sauce in bottle. 4. Dark soy sauce in bottle. 5. Red bean-curd sauce in small brown crock. 6. Crushed yellow bean sauce in bowl. 7. Yellow bean sauce in white bowl. Chili paste: Also called Chili pure, is made of chili, soy bean, salt, sugar and our. Sold in jars; will keep almost indenitely. Hoi Sin sauce: Also known as barbecue sauce. Made from soy beans, sugar, our, vinegar, salt, garlic, chili, and sesame. Red bean curd sauce: A thick sauce made from fermented bean curd and salt. Sold in cans or jars, will keep indenitely. Salted black beans: Whole bean sauce, very salty. Sesame seed oil: Chinese typically use vegetable oils; soy bean oil is very widely used. Soy sauce: The darker colored sauces are strongest and more often used in cooking, whereas the lighter are used at the table. 391. Lo, Kenneth H.C. 1979. The encyclopedia of Chinese cooking. New York, NY: A & W Publishers, Inc. viii + 369 p. Plus 10 unnumbered pages of color plates. Illust. Index. 26 cm. Summary: The Introduction notes: Everybody who has lived through the last couple of decades in the West has noted the tremendous expansion in the desire for increased sensuality; for the freer and fuller use of our senses of sound, sight, taste, and touch (p. 1). Chinese meals are communal meals. Chinese food and cooking are undoubtedly one of Chinas unique contributions to the sum total of the worlds civilization (p. 3). Note: This book calls for the use of monosodium glutamate in many recipes. Soy related recipes: Peking soy-meat sauce for noodles (with soy sauce, brown bean paste, and hoisin sauce, p. 39). Soy-celery sauce for deep-fried chicken (with soy sauce, p. 42). Soy-stock sauce for deep-fried chicken (with soy
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU sauce, p. 42). Soy-vinegar sauce for deep-fried chicken (with soy sauce, p. 42). Soy and mixed vegetable sauce for deepfried chicken (with soy sauce, p. 43). Soy-stock sauce for boiled, white-cut, or sliced chicken (with soy sauce, p. 43). Soy-red bean cheese marinade for pork or spare ribs (with 1 tablespoon red bean cheese, p. 48). Basic soy-vinegar dressing (with soy sauce, p. 49). Strengthened soy-vinegar dressing (with soy sauce, p. 49). Hot soy dressing (with soy sauce, p. 50). Soy-sesame dressing (with soy sauce, p. 50). Soy-onion dressing (with soy sauce, p. 50). Basic condiments: Soy sauce (p. 52). Hoisin sauce (p. 53). Soy sauce comes in three grades: light, dark, and heavy. The heavy type can be used as a tasty dip. Good quality heavy soy-sauce has a avor of its own... Various dips for chicken (all with soy sauce): Soy-oil dip for chicken (p. 55). Soy-oil-garlic dip (p. 55). Soy-oil-ginger dip (p. 55). Soy-ginger-garlic dip (p. 55). Soy-oil-scallion dip (p. 56). Soy-mustard dip (p. 56). Hot soy-oil dip (p. 56). Soy-sherry dip (p. 56). Hoisin or plum sauce for pork (p. 56). Soy-sesame dip for pork (p. 57). Dip for deep-fried bean curd (with soy sauce, peanut butter, sesame oil, etc., p. 58). Sliced pork and bean curd soup (with 2-3 cakes bean curd, p. 67). Hot noodles with soy jam and fresh vegetables (with 6 tablespoons soy jam or paste, p. 102). The chapter titled Vegetable and vegetarian dishes (p. 106-21) begins: There are three background factors in Chinese vegetable and vegetarian cooking which give them strength, tradition, and variety. The rst of these is the widespread use of soy beans and their by-products [soyfoods] which, as we have already seen, add a great deal of avoring power to Chinese meat cooking, as well as the cooking of other foods. One must also recognize that the use of bean curds is of great importancefor shear versatilityfor shear versatility they have few equals in the whole realm of food materials. This type of cooking is derived principally from Buddhist monastery and temple cooking. Soy beans and their byproducts (soy sauce, soy paste [jiang], soy cheese [fermented tofu], soy bean curd, and fermented salted black beans) act as a common denominator between meat and vegetable dishes. The Basic vegetarian stock has three main ingredients: fresh and dried mushrooms and mushroom stalks, 1 lb yellow [soy] beans, and teaspoon MSG. The technique of Splash frying is used in the recipe for Splash-fried bean sprouts (p. 112). Soy related: Vegetarian toasted shrimp (with 2 cakes bean curd and 1 teaspoon bean curd cheese, p. 119). Vegetarian spring rolls (with 2 cakes bean curd 1 teaspoon bean curd cheese, p. 119). Spare ribs with black beans (Chinese style) (with 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, p. 142). Spare ribs with black beans (overseas Chinese style) (with 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, p. 142). Spare ribs with red bean curd cheese (p. 143-44). Sliced roast pork
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stir-fried with bean curd (p. 150). Diced chicken in soy jam (with 2 tablespoons soy jam or paste, p. 212-13). Soy eggs (made by simmering hard-boiled eggs in soy sauce). The Glossary (p. 343-46) includes entries for: Bean curd. Bean curd cheese (It is used extensively for avoring, and is often eaten in small quantities with congee {plain, boiled rice porridge} for breakfast in China). Bean sprouts (Young sprouts of the mung bean). Black beans (Fermented) (Small, black, salted soy beans). Hoisin sauce (Literally translated it means Sea-Fresh Sauce. The ingredients are soy sauce, soy paste, ground yellow beans, garlic, sugar and vinegar). Light soy sauce. Monosodium glutamate (It can be eliminated from the recipes if desired). Red bean curd cheese. Soy jam (soy bean paste) (It is somewhat less salty but often tastier than soy sauce). Note: This book was rst published in 1974 by William Collins Sons & Co. in London. 392. Nakano, Masahiro. 1979. Tezukuri no kenk shokuhin: Hakk riy no subete [Handmade healthy fermented foods]. Tokyo: Nosan Gyoson Bunka Kyokai. 227 p. Illust. 18 cm. [Jap; eng+] Summary: Describes how to prepare homemade soymilk cheese (p. 139-42), soymilk yogurt (p. 155), tempeh, and miso (16-39, 84-91), and fermented tofu (p. 117-24). Address: Tokyo, Japan. 393. Ng Sock Nye. 1979. Soya beanNutritious food for the people. Malaysia: Institut Masyarakat Berhad, 9 Lorong Kucing, Pulau Tikus, Penang. 19 p. Illust. 21 cm. [3 ref] Summary: A very original and informative booklet, containing many photos and illustrations (line drawings). Contents: Nutritional value of soya bean, soya bean milk (tau chui; soymilk), soya bean curd (tau fu fah; soymilk curds), soya bean jelly (tau fu; tofu), fried bean cake cubes (tau fu pok; deep-fried tofu cubes), bean cakes (tau kuah; pressed tofu), dried soya strands (tau ki / fu chok; bamboo yuba), soya skin sheets (tau pui; yuba), sweet bamboo (tim chok; sweet yuba), vegetarian duck (chai ak; Buddhas duck), vegetarian salted sh (chai kiam hu; Buddhas sh), vegetarian meat (chai tu kar; Buddhas ham), soya bean sprouts (tau geh; soy sprouts), soya sauce (tau eu; soy sauce), salted soya beans (tau chio [Malaysian soy nuggets]). Bibliography. 394. Pederson, Carl Severin. 1979. Microbiology of food fermentations. 2nd ed. Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. ix + 384 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [38 soy ref] Summary: Chapter 11, on Nutritious fermented foods of the Orient contains (p. 310-33): Introduction. Soy sauce. Natto. Koji, ragi, and similar inocula. Miso. Sufu or Chinese cheese. Monosodium glutamate. Aroz fermentado of Ecuador. Tempeh (The term catsup originated from the Chinese ketsiap, a salty condiment prepared from sh {p.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 325-26}). Fish sauces. Taro. Address: Prof. Emeritus Cornell Univ. and New York State Agric. Exp. Station. 395. Peppler, Henry J.; Perlman, D. eds. 1979. Microbial technology. 2nd ed. Vol. 1. Microbial processes. Vol. 2. Fermentation technology. New York, NY: Academic Press. Vol. 1, 544 p. Vol. 2, 536 p. Subject index. Summary: Contents of Vol. 1: 1. Beer brewing. 2. Cheese. 3. Distilled beverages. 4. Mold modied foods, by Hwa L. Wang and C.W. Hesseltine (p. 95-129, cited separately; incl. soy sauce, miso, hamanatto, sufu, tempeh). 5. Wine. 6. Vinegar. 7. Ketogenic fermentation processes. 8. Mushroom fermentation. 9. Inocula for blue-veined cheese and blue cheese avor. 10. Microorganisms for waste treatment. 11. Elementary principles of microbial reaction engineering. 12. Microbial culture selection. 13. Methods for laboratory fermentations. 14. Instrumentation of fermentation systems. 15. Computer applications in fermentation technology. 16. General procedures for isolation of fermentation products. 17. Use of immobilized cell systems to prepare ne chemicals. 18. Economics of fermentation processes. 19. Fermentation processes and products: Problems in patenting. Page 111: Sufu, a traditional Chinese food, is a soft cream cheese-type product made from cubes of soybean curd (tofu) by the action of a mold. In the Western world, sufu has been referred to either as Chinese cheese or as bean cake. Because of the numerous dialects used in China, the product is also known as fu-ju, tou-fu-ju, and others (Wang and Hesseltine, 1970a). Address: 1. Universal Foods Corp., Milwaukee, Wisconsin; 2. School of Pharmacy, Univ. of Wisconsin, Madison. 396. Voldeng, Harvey D. 1979. Soybeans in CanadaPast, present and future. Based on an article [sic, manuscript] by Dr. H. Voldeng. In: 1979. Fats and Oils in Canada: Annual Review. Ottawa, Ontario, Canada: Grain Marketing Ofce, Dept. of Industry, Trade and Commerce, Agriculture Canada. [vi] + 95 p. See p. 1-10. Chapt. 1. [7 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Introduction of soybeans to Canada. Importance of the soybean [worldwide]. Utilization. Food uses of soybeans: Oriental foodsSoy milk, tofu, sufu, miso, soy sauce, tempeh, Hamanatto, natto. Western ingredientsFull fat our, defatted our, soy protein concentrates (70% protein), soy protein isolate (more than 90% protein), textured soybean protein. Soybeans in Ontario. Development of short season varieties. Soybeans in Quebec and the Maritimes. Soybeans in the Prairies (southern Manitoba and Alberta). A table shows soybean acreage in Ontarios leading counties in 1978. Kent 205,000. Essex 192,000. Lambton 170,000. Elgin 63,000. Middlesex 40,000. Other 7,000. Total (Ontario) 705,000 acres. Soybeans grown in Ontario can be crushed at three plants: (1) Victory Soya Mills (owned by Procter and
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Gamble) in Toronto. (2) Canadian Vegetable Oil Processing Limited (owned by Canada Packers) in Hamilton. (3) The recently completed Maple Leaf Monarch plant (afliated with Unilever Corporation) in Windsor. Total crushing capacity in Ontario is about 35 million bushels per year. The CSP Foods Plant in Altona, Manitoba, has in some years crushed limited amounts of soybeans imported from the U.S. Development of short season varieties: The justication for the effort to develop a large acreage outside of southwestern Ontario as been the magnitude of imports of soybeans, meal and oil. This has been and continues to be sizeable. The situation (in metric tons = tonnes) is outlined below for the 1977/78 crop year: (1) Whole soybeans: Production 527,361. Imports 262,835. exports 64,173. Domestic crushing 728,400. (2) Soybean oil: Imports 28,100. Exports 1,400. Domestic production 125,600. (3) Soybean meal: Imports 376,300. Exports 45,600. Domestic production 575,400. Source: Fats and Oils in Canada, Annual Review, 1978. Letter (e-mail) from Dr. H. Voldeng of Agriculture and Agri-Foods Canada. 2010. Feb. 16. The original article was not an article but a manuscript that was sent to the publishers of this volume; they reduced the length slightly. It was never published separately, no longer exists, and cannot be cited separately. Address: Agriculture Canada, Ottawa, Ontario. 397. Wang, Hwa L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1979. Mold-modied foods. In: H.J. Peppler and D. Perlman, eds. 1979. Microbial Technology. 2nd ed. Vol. 2. Fermentation Technology. New York: Academic Press. 544 p. See Vol. 1, p. 95-129. [90 ref] Summary: Volume 1. Microbial processes. Volume 2. Fermentation technology. Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Soy sauce. 3. Miso. 4. Hamanatto. 5. Sufu [fermented tofu]. 6. Tempeh. 7. Ang-kak (red rice, used as a color agent). 8. Absence of mycotoxins in fermented foods. 9. Conclusions. For each food is given: General description, method of preparation, composition [chemical / nutritional]. In addition for tempeh is given: Tempeh-like products, biochemistry and physiology of Rhizopus oligosporus, changes occurring during fermentation, nutritional value. Soy sauce is known as chiang-yu on China, shoyu in Japan, kecap in Indonesia, kanjang in Korea, toyo in the Philippines, and see-iew in Thailand. In the Western World the product is often referred to as soy sauce. Japan is the leader worldwide in sauce production; it has the largest fermentation plant and uses the most advanced technology. Hamanatto: Products similar to Japans hamanatto are known as tou-shih in China, tao-si in the Philippines, and tao-tjo [sic] in the East Indies [Indonesia]. A typical process for making hamanatto in Japan, based on information supplied by Dr. T. Kaneko of Nagoya Univ., Japan, is as
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU follows: Wash soybeans, then soak, steam until soft, drain, and cool. Mix with parched wheat our in the ratio of 2 parts soybeans to 1 part our. Inoculate the soybeans with a short- or medium-stalked strain of Aspergillus oryzae. Incubate for 1-2 days until the beans are covered with a fragrant mycelium and have become soybean koji. Pack the soybeans in a container [wooden keg] with (for example) 2.5 kg soybean koji, 650 gm salt, 3.6 liters water and some freshly sliced gingerroot. Cover the container tightly and age under pressure for 6-12 months. Remove beans from liquid and dry them in the sun to give hamanatto. The composition of the brine may differ among manufacturers.; thus the nished hamanatto differs somewhat in taste and appearance. Japanese hamanatto is rather soft, having a high moisture content. Chinese tou-shih has a much lower moisture content... and therefore is not so soft. Tao-tjo tends to have a sweet taste because sugar is often added to the brine. Shoyu in Japan: Although there are more than 4,000 shoyu makers in Japan, the largest 4-5 companies produce about 50% of the total. Note: A wide variety of dairy cheeses, especially of French origin, are made with surface mold growth. Typical varieties are Camembert, Coulommiers, and Brie. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 398. New York Times.1980. Science watch: Chinese liver cancer. Jan. 15. p. C1. Summary: Liver cancer is found with unusually often in certain parts of China, especially along the north shore of the Yangtze river, at its mouth. A survey reports that the cause appears to be the drinking of stagnant, highly polluted ditch water. The report notes that the Chinese commonly eat fermented bean curd and other moldy [mold-fermented] foods, yet the liver cancer incidence seems unrelated to such eating habits. Rather, the report points the nger at toxic substances washed from the elds, such as pesticides and fertilizers. The start of the unprecedented increase in liver cancer, it is reported, coincides with the local introduction of organochlorine pesticides such as DDT. Their effect should not be lightly excluded. 399. Hanes, Phyllis. 1980. A cooks tour of China. Christian Science Monitor. June 5. p. 12. Summary: During a two-week tour of China with a group of 15 American chefs and food writers, I sampled Chairman Maos favoriteStinky Bean Curdat the Fire Palace Restaurant in Changsha (a port, and the capital city of Hunan province). Note: Mao Zedong was born on 26 Dec. 1893 at Shaoshan, Xiangtan, Hunan province, Chinaduring the Qing Dynasty. Changsha was the site of Mao Zedongs conversion to communism. Address: Food editor, Christian Science Monitor.
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400. Hanes, Phyllis. 1980. Maos favorite dishes, one called stinky bean curd. Christian Science Monitor. June 12. p. 14. Summary: One of her most memorable dinners in China was at the Fire Palace Restaurant in Changsha, Hunan provincea favorite eating place of Chairman Mao, who was born in this province and attended and taught school there. This restaurant dates back to the Ching Dynasty. Maos last visit was on 14 April 1958. We were served the Stinky Bean Curd (Chou Tou Fou), which was ne, interesting, but not very exciting in avor, I thought, although it is a favorite Chinese snack food. It looks like a dark brownie, 3 or 4- inches square, pungent, with a smoky, caramel, interesting taste. Made from an ancient recipe, it is a bean curd made of broad beans that have been marinated in sesame oil, red pepper, and other ingredients, then deep-fried and eaten with a choice of soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, and chili paste. Note: Most stinky bean curd in Taiwan and China is said to be made from soybeans, not broad beans (Vicia faba). Could it be made from different beans in different parts of China? Address: Food editor, Christian Science Monitor. 401. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, H.L. 1980. The importance of traditional fermented foods. BioScience 30(6):402-04. June. [12 ref] Summary: Table 1 gives, for each food, the name, area or country, microorganism used, substrate, nature and uses. The following soy-related foods are included: Soy sauce (chiangyu, shoyu, toyo, kanjang, kecap, see-ieu), miso (chiang, doenjang, soybean paste, tauco), Hamanatto (toushih, tao-si, tao-tjo [sic, tao-tjo = tauco is Indonesian-style miso]), sufu (fu-ru, fu-ju, tou-fu-ju, bean cake, Chinese cheese), tempeh, bongkrek, ontjom (oncom), natto. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 402. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, Hwa L. 1980. Fermented foods. Food Trade Review 50(9):473-79. Sept.; 50(10):54345. Oct. [4 ref] Summary: Discusses shoyu, tempeh, wheat soya tempeh, sufu, natto, koji, miso, ragi, and soy yogurt. Address: USDA NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 403. Hesseltine, C.W. 1980. Re: Sufu, tempeh, vitamin B-12. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Oct. 24. 2 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. Summary: Thanks for the two beautiful slides. We didnt have any slides of the actual production of sufu. Tempeh should be cooked before it is eaten since the Rhizopus mold is still alive and there are members of the Mucorales which can grow in the body of diabetics and those using anticancer drugs that reduce resistance. They apparently get in by growing in breaks in the skin
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and lining of the digestive tract. So, like other soyfoods, tempeh should not be eaten as a raw food. Address: Chief, Fermentation Lab., USDA/NRRL, Peoria, Illinois. 404. Wang, H.L.; Swain, E.W.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1980. Phytase of molds used in Oriental food fermentation. J. of Food Science 45(5):1262-66. Sept/Oct. [26 ref] Summary: Except for Mucor dispersus NRRL 3103 and Actinomucor elegans NRRL 3104, all the other molds tested produced both extra- and intracellular phytase. Molds were tested that make the following fermented foods: Sufu, tempeh, Lao-chao, soy sauce, and miso. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 405. Somporn, Wannee. 1980. Review of solid substrate fermented products in Thailand. In: ASEAN Sub-Committee on Protein, ed. 1980. Report on the Second ASEAN Workshop on Solid Substrate Fermentation. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 415 p. See p. 235-49. [3 ref] Summary: Table 3 shows fermented foods prepared in Thailand from legumes and cereals. Fermented foods having soybeans are the main substrate are: See iew (a condiment, made in central and south Thailand using bacteria, molds, and yeasts). Thua nao (main dish, made in north Thailand using bacteria). Tao hoo (tofu, main dish, made in central and south Thailand using bacteria, molds, and yeasts). Tao jiao (avoring, made in central and south Thailand using bacteria, molds, and yeasts). Tao si ([soy nuggets], avoring agent, made in south Thailand, using molds). A survey of all soy sauce factories in Thailand was conducted in 1975. Representative samples were analyzed for both pathogenic organisms and aatoxin, but neither was found (Biological Science Division, 1975-1976). Note:. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word Tao hoo (or Taohoo) to refer to tofu. Address: Biological Science Div., Dep. of Science Service, Ministry of Science, Technology and Energy, Thailand. 406. Soriano, M.R.; Navarro, N.S.; Parel, S.O. 1980. Solid substrate food fermentation technology in the Philippines. In: ASEAN Sub-Committee on Protein, ed. 1980. Report on the Second ASEAN Workshop on Solid Substrate Fermentation. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 415 p. See p. 198-223. 29 cm. [45 ref] Summary: This paper gives a brief history of the development of food fermentation technology in the Philippines, including fermented soy products such as toyo (soy sauce), tausi (or tao-si [soy nuggets], called taoushih by the Chinese and tao tjo [sic] by the East Indians), tahuri (fermented tofu, sufu, or Chinese cheese. Cubes of tofu are inoculated with an Actinomucor mold; angkak is often used to impart a red color), and miso (called chiang in China). A related product is angkak, or red rice, made
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by fermenting rice with the red mold Monascus purpureus Went for coloring and avoring. The science of fermentation can be said to have dawned in the mid-1800s when Louis Pasteur discovered that every fermentation process was associated with a corresponding organism. Before World War II the use of microorganisms for the processing of foods was an unexplained eld of study in the Philippines. The four pioneering studies from 1934 to 1937 included one by Yenko and Baens in 1940 the use of rice as a source of carbohydrate in the production of soy sauce. The rst scientic investigation (1934, with nata) was done in the University of the Philippines, College of Agriculture in Los Baos, Laguna, and the last three studies were pursued in the former Bureau of Science, now the National Institute of Science & Technology (NIST). There are no local written reports or scientic investigations of tausi, tahuri, or miso. Their manufacture is dominated by Chinese in the Philippines. Much attention, however, has been given to the production of soy sauce (toyo). Reviews of studies conducted in the Philippines have been given by Soriano (1975) and Soriano and Pardo (1977). Work is presently being done at NIST on the replacement of soy beans with local beans, and wheat with rice, cassava or banana our in the production of soy sauce. Address: National Inst. of Science and Nutrition, Manila. 407. Tang, Charles Chang Chiu. 1980. Studies of solid substrate fermentation in Singapore. In: ASEAN SubCommittee on Protein, ed. 1980. Report on the Second ASEAN Workshop on Solid Substrate Fermentation. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 415 p. See p. 225-233. [5 ref] Summary: Many of Singapores fermented foods are traditional indigenous foods. These include: (1) Fermented soya beans used in the koji to make soya sauce. (2) Fermented whole soya beans, which are preserved in brine (soy nuggets) or made into a paste (like Chinese soybean jiang). (3) Fermented cubes of tofu. Of these fermented food products, only the fermentation process for making soya sauce has been studied at length by the National University of Singapore and the Singapore Institute of Standards and Industrial Research. Their ndings of improved Aspergillus mutants for the production of better quality soya sauce have been reported at a previous ASEAN Workshop on Soya Sauce Manufacturing technique (1978 Singapore). The Department of Scientic Services has analysed samples of fermented Tofu, soya beans, soya sauce and shrimp paste and found that aatoxins were absent in these fermented products. Address: PhD, Dep. of Scientic, Outram Road, Singapore 0316. 408. Bau, H.M.; Debry, G. 1980. Lart de lutilisation du soja: Habitudes et traditions [The art of soya utilization: Customs and traditions]. Cahiers de Nutrition et de Dietetique 15(4):277-84. Oct/Dec. [40 ref. Fre; eng]
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: For many centuries, soybeans have meant meat, milk, cheese, bread, and oil to the people of Asia. Because of their great food value, they not only have long had a denite place in the oriental diet but now belong in the diet of America and of the entire world. In Europe, the use of soybean products in the quotidian diet is still limited, however it is sure that they will be an important factor in the balanced diet of the future. Note 1. Soyfoods Center has a 16-page Englishlanguage translation of this article. Note 2. Websters Dictionary denes quotidian (derived from the French quot = as many as + dies = day) as occurring every day. Address: University of Nancy, France. 409. Han, Suyin. 1980. My house has two doors. London: J. Cape; New York, NY: Putnam. 655 p. See p. 302. Illust. 23 cm. Summary: Han Suyins eloquent autobiography, covering the years from 1949 to the present, offers a unique portrait of the persons and events that have formed todays Red China. Chapter 12, titled Survival: 1960-1961 states (p. 302): Before I left Chengtu, Sixth Brother procured for me an enormous ten-kilo caulked basket of pickled beancurd [fermented tofu]; that wonderful red beancurd made in Pihsien, the small town where our family had lived for three centuries or more. How had they obtained it? Nowhere had I seen beancurd that year. From a farmer I know... The countryside ate up its own beancurd,... Sixth Brother had cycled twenty-ve kilometers back and forth, after his work, to get the beancurd for me. It had such a wonderful beancurdy tang that my room in the hotel was redolent with it; and outside in the corridor I would nd groups of curious people, standing still, breathing in the beancurd smell... The Family looked at the beancurd, and our mouths watered as we contemplated the paunchy container, but no one would share it with me. Its yours. Its yours. Note: The strong, redolent smell of this beancurd suggests that it was probably chou toufu or stinky tofu. Address: Lausanne, Switzerland. 410. Quong Hop & Co. 1980. Quong Hop. Quality soy foods since 1906. Now vacuum packed. Recipes inside (Leaet). South San Francisco, California. 6 panels. Front and back. Summary: Contains 6 recipes, one for each of their products, with a color photo of each. The products are Soy Milk, Savory Baked Tofu, New Leaf Tofu Burgers, Fresh Tofu, Deep-Fried Tofu Cutlets, and New Leaf Tofu Dressing. The top half of one panel shows an old black-andwhite photo of two men standing in Chinese food store, surrounded by wooden, boxes, sacks, and shelves. Plainly visible on the back wall is a wooden plaque with two large gold letters bearing the company name. [Note: In a 1986 leaet from Quong Hop & Co. we are told that this photo
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was of The Family Store, 1911]. The Chinese characters for Quong Hop appear on the back wall. The text reads: The traditional soy foods of China have been our familys business for three generations. Since 1906, when our doors opened in San Franciscos Chinese settlement, we have maintained a rm commitment to quality in every product we manufacture. In 1976, we were the rst company to pioneer a return to the use of traditional, time-proven methods and completely natural ingredients in the commercial manufacturing of fresh tofu and soy milk. Today, our organic Nigari tofu is widely regarded as the nest made. To further develop the expanding soy foods marketplace, we are now offering a complete line of vacuum-packed soy products. Our historical commitment to quality and, more recently, to the adaptation of soy foods to the American marketplace, have placed us at the forefront of the Soy Foods Revolution. We offer a growing line of soy products based on Western Recipes, including Tofu, Burgers, Creamy Tofu Dressing, and soon Tofu Salad and other items. Address: 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. 411. Bhumiratana, Amaret. 1980. Traditional fermented foods in Thailand. In: 1980. Proceedings of the Oriental Fermented Foods. Food Industry Research and Development Institute, P.O. Box 246, Hsinchu, (300) Taiwan. iv + 229 p. See p. 58-70. [19 ref] Summary: Tao-jeow is Thai miso. Sufu is fermented tofu. The author uses the terms tao-nou and thuo-nao instead of thua-nao throughout; he even misspells it when citing Sundhagul 1970. It is sold as a paste or chips. Soy sauce (the Chinese type), soy paste and fermented soybean curd are commonly available throughout the country although
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU they are more common in the Chinese community. Tao-nou, however, is the product which is popular in the northern part of the country. Flowcharts show the processes for producing soy sauce and tao jeow, tofu and sufu, and thuo-nao. Address: Dep. of Microbiology, Faculty of Science, Mahidol Univ., Rama VI Rd., Bangkok 4, Thailand. 412. Fessler, Stella Lau. 1980. Chinese meatless cooking. New York, NY and Scarborough, Ontario, Canada: New American Library. 298 p. Illust. by Janet Nelson. Index. 20 cm. Summary: This vegetarian cookbook, which contains more than 180 recipes, demonstrates vividly how much Chinese vegetarian cookery depends on soyfoodsespecially tofu (bean curd). The glossary includes excellent descriptions of bean curdfermented red (nan-ru), bean curdfermented white (tofu-ru), bean curdpressed threads or noodles, bean curd sheets (tofu-pi [yuba]), bean curd sheets (er-ju), bean curd sheetspressed or hundred-leaf (bai-yeh), bean curd sticks (folded bean curd sheets), brown bean paste or brown bean sauce, bean pasteSzechuan hot bean or spicy soy, bean sproutssoy or yellow, fermented or salted black beans, Hoisin sauce, Oyster sauce (with soy), soy sauce, soy sauce light or thin. The chapter on soups stocks notes that soybeans or soybean sprouts have a delicate avor and are most suitable for making stock. Soy sprouts, which are much larger than mung bean sprouts, have a more chewy texture and a very sweet, delicate taste; they are often used to strengthen the avor of a dish (see recipe p. 90). Soy-related recipes (each with the name written in Chinese characters) include: Mixed pressed bean curd threads (p. 68). Spinach and deep-fried bean curd puff salad (p. 70). Soybean sprout salad (p. 73). Pressed bean curd salad (p. 76). Monks in a storm of wind and snow (Asparagus and bean curd salad, p. 82). Soybean sprout stock (p. 90). Deepfried bean curd and mung bean noodle soup (p. 93). Spinach and bean curd soup (p. 98). Seaweed and bean curd soup (p. 99). Soybean soup (p. 100). Soybean with fried gluten soup (p. 101). Asparagus and bean curd soup (p. 106). Goddess of Mercy (Kuan-yin) soup (With bean curd and tiger lily bulbs, p. 112-13). One long chapter (p. 118-160) is titled Bean curd dishes, mock meat dishes, and mock sh dishes. It gives good denitions of and home-scale recipes for: Bean curd. Deep-fried bean curd puffs. Plain pressed bean curd cakes. Five-spice pressed bean curd cakes. Braised deep-fried bean curd puffs. Bean curd with oyster sauce (not vegetarian). Braised bean curd. Spicy bean curd. Steamed bean curd with spicy bean paste sauce. Bean curd with tomatoes. Bean curd with fresh mushrooms. Cold bean curd. Stubborn stones obeisance (Fried bean curd with vegetables). Braised frozen bean curd with chives. Braised Fukien [Fujian] bean curd. Stir-fried Chinese chives with pressed bean curd. Stir-
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fried pressed bean curd with carrots and bamboo shoots. Mock lions head (with ve-spice pressed bean curd). Stirfried green peppers with mock meat (pressed bean curd). Mock moo goo gai pan (Stir-fried pressed bean curd with vegetables). Mock roast duck (with dried bean curd sheets and soy sauce). Mock soy sauce chicken (with fresh or frozen hundred-leaf bean curd sheets). Mock velvet chicken (fried bean curd with egg whites). Spicy mock chicken (with mock soy sauce chicken). Mock ham (with dried bean curd sheets). Bock abalone (braised gluten balls). Mock mu-shu pork (with ve-spice pressed bean curd, shredded). Fried mock squab (with chopped pressed bean curd). Mock twicecooked pork (with ve spice pressed bean curd). Bean curd with thousand-year eggs. Other interesting recipes include: Wheat gluten (homemade mein jin or vegetable steak, p. 165-66; At Chinese grocery stores, wheat gluten is sold in various formsfried, dried, steamed, boiled, canned, and frozen). Fried gluten balls. Boiled gluten. Lo Han vegetable dish (with fried wheat gluten balls, p. 169-70). Chinese mustard greens in black bean sauce (p. 173-74). Stir-fried leeks with bean curd (p. 186). Fresh soybeans stir-fried with fresh mushrooms (p. 187). Boiled fresh soybeans in their pods (p. 188). Bean sprouts stir fried with wheat gluten (p. 190). Stir-fried soybean sprouts with bean curd puffs (p. 191). Cauliower and bean curd sticks (p. 192). Winter melon with red fermented bean curd sauce (p. 195). Stir-fried asparagus with fermented bean curd (p. 197). Stir-fried lettuce with white fermented bean curd sauce (p. 198). Sweet and sour fried gluten and cabbage (p. 208). Two immortals in the apricot garden (fried gluten with vegetables and almonds, p. 209). Braised eggs with bean curd sticks (p. 213-14). Scrambled eggs with fermented bean curd (p. 214). Bean curd with salted eggs (p. 216-17). Wonton soup (with fresh bean curd, p. 233-34). Fried wontons (lled with ve-spice pressed bean curd, coarsely chopped). Soybean milk, sweet soybean milk, and salty soybean milk (p. 247-48). Deepfried crullers (yu chiao; sometimes served in hot soymilk, p. 249-50). Noodles with spicy bean paste sauce (and ve-spice pressed bean curd, p. 258-59). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term red fermented bean curd to refer to red fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term white fermented bean curd to refer to regular white fermented tofu. Address: Cornell Univ., Ithaca, New York. 413. Fukushima, Danji; Hashimoto, Hikotaka. 1980. Oriental soybean foods. In: F.T. Corbin, ed. 1980. World Soybean Research Conference II: Proceedings. Boulder, Colorado: Westview Press. xv + 897 p. See p. 729-743. [7 ref] Summary: Contents: Fermented soybean foods. Nonfermented soybean food. Conclusion. References.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU The following statistics show the amount (tons) of whole soybeans/ defatted soybean grits/ total of whole and grits consumed for various soybean foods and feeds in Japan in 1976. Fermented soyfoods: Shoyu (soy sauce) 10,000/ 165,000/ 175,000, miso 190,500/ 5,000/ 195,500. Natto 69,000/ 0/ 69,000. Non-fermented soyfoods: tofu and aburage (fried tofu pouches) 411,500, 55,000/ 466,500. Kori-tofu (dried-frozen tofu) 29,000/ 0/ 29,000. Others 16,000/ 75,000/ 91,000. Animal feeds: 30,000/ 1,950,000/ 1,980,000. Thus total use for foods and feeds is whole soybeans 756,000. Defatted soybean grits 2,250,000, total of both 3,006,000. By type of use, animal feeds account for 65.9% of total Japanese usage of whole soybeans and defatted grits, nonfermented soyfoods account for 19.5%, and fermented soyfoods account for 14.6%. The top three food users are tofu (466,500 tons, 45.5% of all food uses), miso (195,500), and shoyu (175,000). There are 35,000 tofu plants in Japan. Fermented soybean foods described are shoyu (soy sauce; 5 types), miso (3 basic types, 6 varieties), sufu (Chinese soybean cheese), tempeh (fermented soybean cake), natto (fermented whole soybeans; itohiki-natto and hamanatto), and fermented soymilk (recently a new fermented soybean product appeared on the market in Japan. It is a soy milk drink fermented by lactic acid bacteria). Non-fermented soybean foods described are tofu (soy milk curd), aburage (fried tofu pouches), kori-tofu (driedfrozen tofu), yuba (coagulant lm of soy milk), kinako (roasted soybean powder), moyashi (soybean sprouts), and soybeans. Production, chemical composition, and use of each of these foods is discussed. Address: Kikkoman Foods Inc., P.O. Box 69, Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. 414. Kan, Johnny; Leong, Charles L. 1980. Eight immortal avors. Rev. ed. San Francisco, California: California Living Books. xiii + 236 p. Illust. 24 cm. 1st edition 1963. Summary: The title page states: Including new recipes kitchen-tested by Master Chef Sun Pui Wong, Executive Chef, Kans Restaurant. This book is almost identical to the original 1963 edition. However Roman numerals have been assigned to the front matter, so the recipes are on different pages. None of the original soy-related recipes or denitions have been changed or deleted. On the rear cover (undated): Will probably become a standard reference work... It is admirable for its scope and authenticity. Address: 1. Chef, Chinatown; 2. Historian of Chinese life in America. 415. Lai, Him Mark.; Lim, Genny; Yung, Judy. 1980. Island: poetry and history of Chinese immigrants on Angel Island, 1910-1940. San Francisco, California: Hoc Doi (History of Chinese Detained on Island); Chinese Culture Foundation. Distributed by San Francisco Study Center. 174 p. Illust.
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(photos). Portraits. 24 x 20 cm. A project of the Chinese Culture Foundation of San Francisco. [Eng; Chi] Summary: This is a remarkable book, another painful example of American racism and insensitivity. The majority of the approximately 175,000 Chinese immigrants (most from Canton) who came to the United States from 1910 to 1940 passed trough the detention center at Angel Islandthe West Coast counterpart of Ellis Island. Here they awaited jurisdiction on the outcomes of medical examinations, interviews, and immigration papers. It was an ordeal that left many scars. Some wrote poems on the walls of the center to express their grief or sadness. The poems, written on facing pages in both Chinese and English, are divided into chapters. There are also many transcriptions of interviews, each accompanied by a Chinese persons name, age, and date, plus some footnotes of explanation. In the chapter on The detainment Mr. Dea, age 26, writes in 1939 (p. 74): We would get up in the morning and there was no set time for this, and have plain congee with fermented bean curd. Then, after breakfast, we could go out and exercise... In the same chapter, Mr. Low, Kitchen helper, 192325, wrote (p. 77): The main dish included soup, and the following served in turn: vermicelli and pork, dried bean curd and pork, potatoes and beef, dried greens and sh... The small dish was usually either salted sh, fermented bean curd, or hoisin sauce. Footnote 20: Soya bean is one ingredient in hoisin sauce. Address: California. 416. Ryukyu Shinpo. comp. 1980. Higaonna Kanjun zensh [Complete works of Higaonna Kanjun]. Tokyo?: Daiichi Shobo. See vol. 8, p. 302. [Jap]* 417. Su, Yuan-Chi. 1980. Traditional fermented foods in Taiwan. In: Proceedings of the Oriental Fermented Foods. Food Industry Research and Development Institute, P.O. Box 246, Hsinchu, (300) Taiwan. iv + 229 p. See p. 15-30. Held 10-14 Dec. 1979 in Taipei, Taiwan. 8 tables. 9 gs. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Bean sauce: Soy sauce, black bean sauce (in-yu [inyu]), in-si or tou-si (made from the dried mash of black bean sauce). Fermented jam: Tou-chiang (Taiwanese miso), tou-pan-chiang (made from sprouted broad beans; soy is not used), tien-mien-chiang (made with wheat our; no soy). Fermented tou-fu: Tou-fu-ju (also named sufu, soybean cheese, or Chinese cheese), choutou-fu (also named fetid bean curd [stinky tofu]). Anka (also called ang-kak or red koji, made by growing a Monascus mold on rice). Discussion. Color photos are given of in-si (tou-si) and the pehtze of fermented tofu overgrown with Mucor mold species. A owchart is given describing the production of most of these foods. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Tou-fu-ju to refer to
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU fermented tofu. Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term fetid bean curd to refer to stinky tofu. In 1978 there were 433 soy sauce plants in Taiwan (39 produced a class-A product, and 12 produced class B; most were unclassied) with an annual production capacity of 160,000 kiloliters. This is equivalent to an annual consumption of 9 liters per capita. The 8 largest manufacturers control 45% of the Taiwanese market. 25% of the soy sauce is 100% fermented, 5% is HVP chemical soy sauce, and 70% is a blend of the two. Originally, whole soybean was used as the protein source. Now it is replaced by defatted soybean [meal], and the whole soybean is used only when high quality soy sauce is desired. The Chinese National Standards (CNS) for soy sauce were established in 1954 and have since been revised several times. On 24 Oct. 1971 the CNS 423 was established. Grade A soy sauce must have the following composition in gm/100 ml: Pure solid matter excluding NaCl > 12, total nitrogen > 1.3, formol nitrogen > 0.56, and pH from 4.5 to 5.3. The corresponding gures for grade B are: Pure solid matter excluding NaCl > 9, total nitrogen > 0.9, formol nitrogen > 0.40, and pH from 4.5 to 5.3. In-yu or black bean sauce is undoubtedly Taiwans the oldest prepared condiment. In-yu is different from soy sauce in that it is produced from black [soy] beans and its avor becomes stronger as it is cooked. Therefore it is used by many families in frying and cooking meat. Currently, in south Taiwan, the market for in-yu is about 30% that of soy sauce. Production of Taiwanese miso (tou-chiang) is currently 11,000 tons. Per capita consumption is decreasing. Fermented tofu (Tofu-fu-ju) is produced both commercially and domestically. The annual production is about 10,000 tons while weekly consumption is about 12 gm per capita. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 418. Tsai, Wei-Chong; Wong, C.M. 1980. Proceedings of the Oriental fermented foods. Food Industry Research and Development Institute, P.O. Box 246, Hsinchu, (300) Taiwan. iv + 229 p. Held 10-14 Dec. 1979 in Taipei, Taiwan. Illust. No index. 26 cm. Summary: The symposium was jointly sponsored by ASPAC Food and Fertilizer Technology Center (FFTC), President Enterprises Corporation, and Food Industry Research and Development Institute (FIRDI). The information contained in this book is a blend of theoretical considerations and practical applications on the Oriental food fermentations. In addition to the above, it includes some studies of microbiology and biochemistry relevant to the discipline, which have hardly caught due attention before. The welcoming address is by Paul C. Ma, director of
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FIRDI. Opening remarks are given by Carson K.C. Wu (director of the Food and Fertilizer Technology Center), and by Chin-yuan Kao (president of President Enterprises Corporation, who generously paid for the printing of the proceedings, and who notes that Taiwanese consume 9.3 liters of soy sauce per capita). Address: 1. FIRDI; 2. FFTC. 419. Root, Waverley. 1981. A cordial bow to the byproducts of the soybean. Los Angeles Times. Jan. 15. p. J42. Summary: This article is indebted to: Simonds, Nina. 1979. Chinese cuisine: Bean curd. Gourmet. Sept. p. 28-29, 8491. The soybean, which offers extraordinary versatility as a human food, can be transformed into soybean milk, the soybean milk skin [yuba] derived from the milk, the bean sticks [bamboo yuba] made from the milk skin, the also edible sediment given off by the milk [okara], untreated bean curd [regular tofu and perhaps silken tofu], pressed bean curd which produces bean curd noodles [pressed tofu noodles], more tightly compressed bean curd cakes, and frozen-and-thawed bean curd [dried frozen tofu]. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Nov. 2011) that uses the term frozen-and-thawed bean curd to refer to dried frozen tofu. In the process of making pressed bean curd, another soybean food is createdbean curd skin [pai yeh, pressed tofu sheets], which should not be confused with soybean milk skin [yuba]. Dried bean curd skin, which needs no refrigeration and is often stuffed, for example with chopped meat, is sold by weight by Chinese specialty shops throughout the world; ve or six sheets weigh one ounce. There is a whole family of foods made from fermented bean curd [fermented tofu]. Bean curd can be fermented in various ways. Bean curd loaves, for example, can be stored for the winter in a cool dark place; micro-organisms from the air cause fermentation. The loaves acquire a fungoid coating, which has to be scraped off, and as far as I know is not used for food,... Fermented bean curd, which has been called soybean cheese, is easier to digest than unfermented bean curd. Bean curd can also be marinated in rice wine, avored with spices, and then allowed to ferment. A most unusual type of fermented tofu is stinky bean curd (shou tou fu), a favorite Chinese snack. In Taipei, there are many street vendors who ply the streets with their portable deep fryers. This fermented tofu is usually deep-fried and usually eaten with ones choice of soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, and chili paste. Other fermented foods include miso, natto, hamanatto (which is of Korean origin), tempeh (of Indonesian origin), and shoyu (Soybean sauce, soy sauce). It is said that the best grades of soy sauce can take as much as six to seven years of aging to reach perfection, and that the making of a superb soy sauce requires as much art in its preparation as good French wines.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Flavorings are added to some Chinese soy sauce various herbs, especially citronella; spices (ginger); aromatic vegetables (onions); and not only fermented sh, but even fermented chicken meat. To produce three liters (3.1 quarts) of sauce requires on kilogram (2.2 pounds) of beans. Fukien has the reputation of producing the best soy bean sauce in China and consequently stews many foods in it, giving them a color which has caused the culinary techniques of this region to be called red cooking. Soybean sauce is often an important ingredient in many more complicated saucesfor instance Hoisin sauce in China and Worcestershire sauce in England. 420. Flinders, Carol. 1981. Notes from Laurels Kitchen: Chinese cooking, vegetarian style, uses soybeans for meat. Hartford Courant (Connecticut). Jan. 21. p. E8. Summary: The traditional teachings of both Buddhism and Taoism prohibit the eating of any food that requires killing animals, birds, sh, or other sea creatures. For this reason the native culinary genius of China has produced a superb vegetarian cuisine. It has ourished for centuries, mainly in Buddhist monasteries. Now Stella Lau Fessler has written Chinese Meatless Cooking which contains authentic recipes. The next step is to locate a store in your town that sells Oriental foods. Tofu, sesame oil, and even shiitake mushrooms are now widely available. Soybeans make an impressive showing throughout the recipes: As tofu in many forms (did you know theres a fermented tofu, tofu-ru, which acionados compare with blue cheese?), as soybean milk, and even as just plain soybeans, boiled fresh in the pods. 421. Fukushima, Danji. 1981. Re: History of tofu in Japan. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Jan. 22in reply to inquiry. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. [2 ref] Summary: Tofu was rst introduced into Japan in the 8th century; from that time until about the 12th century it was called okabe. Source: Tomomi Kono. 1970. Encyclopedia Japonica. Tokyo: Shogakukan. Vol. 13, p. 227. Please see enclosed photocopy. Fermented tofu originated in China in the 5th century A.D. Source: T. Watanabe, H. Ebine, and T. Ota. 1971. Daizu Shokuhin. Tokyo: Korin Shoin. p. 196. Please see enclosed photocopy. In Japan today, several factories produce 50,000 to 100,000 packages of packaged tofu per day. By separate mail, Dr. Fukushima is sending a copy of a color slide showing Kibuns Soena. Address: Kikkoman Foods, Inc., Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. 422. Wang, H.L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1981. Use of microbial cultures: Legume and cereal products. Food Technology
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35(1):79-83. Jan. [38 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Use of nontoxinproducing cultures. Safety of fermented foods: Several factors contribute to their safety: Soaking and cooking, salting, acid formation, antibiotic production, alcohol production, low surface moisture, decrease of aatoxin by Rhizopus and Neurospora. Shelf life of fermented foods. Nutritive value of fermented foods: Complementary effect of mixed proteins, protein efciency ratio and digestibility, vitamins. Future of fermented legume-cereal foods. The following fermented soy-related foods are described briey, including names, area of origin, organisms used, substrate, and nature and use: Soy sauce (chiang-yu, shoyu, toyo, kanjang, kecap, see-ieu). Miso (chiang, doenjang, soybean paste, tauco). Fermented bean (hamanatto, tou-shih, tao-si). Sufu (fu-ru, fu-ju, tou-fu-ju, bean cake, Chinese cheese). Tempeh (tempe kedelee). Natto. Ontjom (onchom). Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 423. Burros, Marian. 1981. Chinese New Year: The year of the rooster. Gathering around the re pot. Washington Post. Feb. 5. p. A1, A15 (E15). Summary: The re pot (the Chinese version of a chang dish) is specially popular during the Spring Festival, which Americans call Chinese New Year. In Mandarin it is called huo kuo, while in the Cantonese dialect it is ta pin lou. Popular ingredients include tofu, frozen tofu (made by slicing and freezing fresh tofu), soy sauce, and red fermented tofu. One recipe is given for Aline Bermans re pot, and another for Fire pot sauce. 424. Chu, Yung-shung. 1981. Soybean protein food in China. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 58(2):96A, 98A, 100A. Feb. Reprinted in APCC Quarterly, 30 June 1981, p. 23-27. Summary: Contents: Abstract. Methods of preparation: Bean curd (tu fu), bean curd derivatives (tough bean curd, smoked tough bean curd, dried soybean sheets, fried bean curd, vegetable chicken), fermented bean curd (fu ru), dried bean milk cream (fu tsu [bamboo yuba]). For 4,000 years soybean have been one of the main crops cultivated in China. The history of extracting protein to prepare tofu is about 1,000 years old. The soybean was important not only as a food but also as a seasoning. The earliest fermented soybean products were dou-jiang (soybean chiang) and dou-chi [soy nuggets]. The preparation of these two products was recorded briey in On Medical Emergency Treatment written by Si Yu during the Western Han Dynasty (100 B.C.). [Note: This is the Chi chiu pien by Shih Yu.] Later, these procedures were described in detail in the Peoples Agricultural Calendar written by Cui-Zi during the Han Dynasty (200 A.D.). Illustrations of techniques appeared in 600 A.D. in special chapters of The Principal Methodology of Economics, by Jia Si-Yi.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU According to historical literature of the Min [Ming] and Qing [Ching] Dynasties, the preparation of bean curd [tofu] was rst recorded in Han Zi, written by Liu An, King of Huai Nan (179-122 B.C.) In the book of Qin-Yi, Tao Gu (907-960 A.D.) said that bean curd was a common food in the market of the south Huai district. Fu ru is the fermented form of bean curd. The earliest record of this is in the book called Night Dialogue Under the Shade, written by Li Ri-huo (1636-1661). He said that fu ru was prepared between summer and autumn in the Qi Men district and briey described the procedure. In a famous book on Chinese herbal medicine, Compendium of Materia Medica, the author, Li Shizen (1518-1593), describes the preparation technique in detail. Later, these procedures were described in detail in the Peoples Agricultural Calendar written by Cui-Zi during the Han Dynasty (200 A.D.). Illustrations of techniques appeared in 600 A.D. in special chapters of The Principal Methodology of Economics, by Jia Si-Yi. Address: Oil and Fat Research Inst., Shaanxi, China. 425. Fukushima, D. 1981. Soy proteins for foods centering around soy sauce and tofu. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 58(3):346-54. March. [41 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Soy sauce varieties: Koikuchi, usukuchi, tamari, saishikomi, and shiro shoyu. Soy sauce manufacturing process (for each of the 5 types). Miso. Other fermented products: Tempeh and natto. Tofu and related products: Regular and silken tofu, driedfrozen tofu, deep-fried tofu. Fermented tofu (Sufu). Other soy products: Soy milk, fermented soy milk beverages, yuba. This paper discusses traditional Oriental soy protein foods which are growing rapidly in popularity in the USA among non-Asian-Americans. Generally speaking, soy sauce is divided into two groups: fermented soy sauce and chemical soy sauce. Fermented soy sauce has a long history as a human food, whereas chemical soy sauce has a history of only several decades. In fermented soy sauce, the proteins and carbohydrates contained in the materials are hydrolyzed very slowly under mild conditions below 30C for over six months, whereas in chemical soy sauce they are hydrolyzed quickly by hydrochloric acid at 80C for 8-10 hours. Chemical hydrolysis is a cheap and rapid process, but during the hydrolysis, various secondary reactions occur and produce undesirable compounds, e.g. dark humins, furfurol, dimethyl sulde, hydrogen sulde, levulinic acid and formic acid, which are not present in fermented soy sauce. Furfurol, dimethyl sulde and hydrogen sulde, which have strong, bad odors in themselves, are derived from pentose, methionine, and sulfur-containing amino acids respectively. Furthermore, tryptophane, one of the nutritionally important amino acids, is destroyed almost completely. As shown in Figure 1 [two chromatograms], the main organic acid of
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fermented soy sauce is lactic acid, whereas the main organic acid of chemical soy sauce is formic acid. Levulinic acid, present in chemical soy sauce, does not exist naturally. To improve the odors of chemical soy sauce, semichemical soy sauce was devised. It is made by hydrolyzing raw soybeans with a lower concentration of hydrochloric acid (7-8%) as the rst step, followed by fermenting the hydrolysate with osmophilic yeasts in the presence of wheat koji. In Japan, chemical soy sauce is not used as a soy sauce in itself, but as an extender for fermented soy sauce. Table 1 gives the typical chemical composition (per 100 ml) of the ve varieties of traditional soy sauce in Japan, including B [Baum; a measure of the relative density of liquids], sodium (koikuchi is lowest at 17.6%, usukuchi is highest at 19.2%), total nitrogen (koikuchi has 1.55 gm, tamari has 2.55 gm or 65% more), formol nitrogen, reducing sugar, alcohol (koikuchi is 2.2%, by far the highest), pH (ranges from 4.6 to 4.8), and color. A brief description of each of the ve traditional varieties: (1) Koikuchi: This dark-colored shoyu is by far the most popular of the ve types of fermented soy sauce in Japan, comprising 85% of the total. It is an allpurpose seasoning with a strong aroma, complex avor, and deep, reddish-brown color. These characteristics are mainly derived from the use of equal amounts of wheat and soybeans in the koji; (2) Usukuchi [light-colored] shoyu is characterized by a lighter, red-brownish color and a milder avor and aroma. It is used mainly for cooking when one wishes to preserve the original avor and color of the food itself. As in koikuchi, equal amounts of soybeans and wheat are used in the koji, but the fermentation is done under conditions which prevent the development of a dark color. (3) Tamari shoyu has a higher amino acid content, but it lacks aroma. The koji is made primarily from soybeans with little or no wheat. (4) Saishikomi (twice-fermented) shoyu is made using equal amounts of wheat and soybeans in the koji, but using raw (unpasteurized) soy sauce instead of salt solution, which is mixed with the harvested koji. Saishikomi is characterized by aroma and full-bodied taste. (5) Shiro (clear, or white) shoyu is made by using a very high ratio of wheat to soybeans in the koji, and further by fermentation under conditions which prevent dark color development. It is characterized by a very light yellow to tan color, though the amino acid content is very low because of the low soybean content in the koji. Flow sheets show the process for manufacturing koikuchi, usukuchi, and tamari shoyu. Each has three basic parts: Koji making process, brine fermentation process, and rening process. Concerning soy sauce production and consumption: The total annual production of soy sauce in Japan in 1979 reported by the Japanese Agricultural Standard (JAS) was 1,252,431 kiloliters (kl). In 1979 in Japan, about 70% of the soy sauce products in Japan were purely fermented, 25%
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU contained some semichemical soy sauce, and the remaining 5% contained chemical (HVP) soy sauce. The most recent estimates of annual consumption of soy sauce in the USA are as follows: Fermented soy sauce 17,850 kl; Chemical (HVP) soy sauce 25,500 kl. Within fermented soy sauce, production of koikuchi soy sauce is estimated to be 16,500 kl/year. In Japan an instant tofu powder is actually a spraydried soy milk. This product was made and introduced by Nihon Tanpaku Kogyo (Japan Protein Industry) about 15 years ago (ca. 1966) and was used mainly as a raw material for making regular or silken tofu in order to save time. Recently, however [1973], the product was placed on the market as an instant powdered tofu [named Hausu Hontfu] by Hausu [House] Foods Co. A photo shows D. Fukushima. Address: Kikkoman Foods, Inc., Walworth, Wisconsin 53184. 426. Hodgson, Bryan. 1981. Singapore: mini-size superstate. National Geographic 159(4):540-61. April. See p. 543. Summary: Page 543: And so, in a nondescript village only ten miles from the city, I shared rice porridge and fermented bean curd with Mr. Cheh Wang Teck, the happy-go-lucky practitioner of a Chinese cult so old and complex that it really doesnt have a name. Address: Senior staff writer.. 427. Soyfoods Center; Soycrafters Assoc. of North America. 1981. Soyfoods Production in America and the West (News release). Lafayette, California: New-Age Foods Study Center. 1 p. April. Updated in Sept. 1981 in a neater format. Summary: A table shows production statistics for 25 types of soyfoods. Number of manufacturers in the USA, Canada, Other West, Total; Tons of raw soybeans/year used by each food. Yield of food from 1 unit weight of soybeans. Wholesale value. Retail value. Number of people employed. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 428. Wang, Hwa L. 1981. Oriental soybean foods: Simple techniques produce many varieties. Food Development 15(5):29-34. May. Summary: Methods of preparation are given for the following soyfoods: Tofu, soy sauce, miso, hamanatto, sufu, tempeh, natto. A table gives local names, descriptions, and uses for traditional East-Asian non-fermented soyfoods: Fresh green soybeans (mao-tou, edamame), soybean sprouts (huang-tou-ya, daizu no moyashi), soybean milk (tou-chiang), protein-lipid lm (tou-fu-pi, yuba), soybean curd (tofu, tou-fu, tubu, tahoo, touhu, taufoo, dou-fu, dan-fu), and soybean our (tou-fen, kinako). Local names, organisms used, substrate, and description of the product are given for traditional East-Asian fermented soyfoods: soy sauce, miso, hamanatto, sufu, tempeh, and natto. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word taufoo to refer to Chinese-style tofu. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois.
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429. Chu, Yung-shung. 1981. Soybean protein food in China. APCC Quarterly Supplement. June 30. p. 23-27. [Eng] Summary: This article was rst published in the Journal of the American Oil Chemists Society (1981, Feb. p. 96A). Address: Oil and Fat Research Inst., Shaanxi, China. 430. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1981. Das TofuBuch: Nahrung fuer alle Band 2 [The book of tofu: Food for mankind. Vol. 2]. Soyen, West Germany: Ahorn Verlag. 288 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. July. 23 x 21 cm. Translated from the English by Rainer Bosch and Gudrun Klein. [43 ref. Ger] Summary: Contains 500 recipes. Contents: How to use this book. Preface. Acknowledgements. 1. Protein East and West. 2. Tofu as a food. 3. Getting started. 4. Soybeans. 5. Fresh soybean puree (Frisches Sojapree). 6. Okara. 7. Soymilk curds and soymilk (Sojaquark und Sojamolke). 8. Tofu (History, how to make at home, basic preparatory techniques). 9. Recipes for regular and rm tofu. 10. Deep-fried tofu: tofu cutlets, burgers, and pouches (Vorfritierter Tofu: Tofuschnitzel, Tofuburger, Tofutaschen). 11. Grilled tofu (Gegrillter Tofu). 12. Frozen and driedfrozen tofu (Gefrorener Tofu und gefriergetrockneter Tofu). 13. Fermented tofu (Fermentierter Tofu). 14. Soymilk (Sojamilch). 15. Silken tofu (Seidentofu). 16. Yuba. 15. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea. 17. Farmhouse tofu for large families. 19. The ethos and tradition of handmade tofu production. 20. Making tofu in a traditional shop. Appendices: A. Tofu restaurants in Japan. B. Varieties of tofu in East Asia. C. People and institutions connected with tofu worldwide (Incl. directory of tofu manufacturers). D. Sources of supply for tofu production. Bibliography. Glossary. Favorite tofu recipes. About the authors and their work (autobiographical). TofuAn opportunity for poor and rich lands. The tofu kit (from Sojaquelle in West Germany and Oekullus in Switzerland). Note 1. This is the earliest publication seen that uses term Tofurei to refer to tofu shops/manufacturers. The term was coined by Gabriele Furth-Kuby of Ahorn Verlag. Note 2. Sojaquark is used to refer to soymilk curds rather than to tofu. Published in a hardcover edition only. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991. 431. Inkson, Ms.; Mann, E.J. comp. 1981. Thesaurus: Food Science and Technology Abstracts. 2nd ed. Shineld, Reading, England: IFIS (International Food Information Service). 238 p. No index. 30 cm. First edition, 1977. [Eng] Summary: The Introduction states: The original IFIS word list, issued in 1970, did not attempt to give more than the barest outline of the relations between the terms encountered. In 1977, therefore, an FSTA Thesaurus was published, in which the basic structuring of the material found in FSTA
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU was set out. The Thesaurus was designed to give maximum compatibility with the EEC Multilingual (English / French / German / Italian) Food Thesaurus, published in 1979 (and itself based largely on the FSTA system for the English version), and to take into account the needs of on-line users. The terms are divided into headings (main terms or descriptors), which are printed in capital letters, and lead-in terms (non-descriptors) printed in lower case. Additional information is included in square brackets. The following abbreviations show the types of relationship between terms: BT = broader terms. NT = narrower terms. RT = related terms. UF = used for. lead-in term followed by see heading (e.g. bean curd see TOFU). Soy-related terms: Beverages: UF soy milk. Lecithins: BT Emulsiers, Phospholipids. UF phosphatidylcholine. Legumes: NT Soybeans. Miso: BT Soy Products. natto: see Soy Products. Sauces: NT Soy Sauces. soy our: see Soy Products. soy milk: see Beverages; Soy Products. Soy Products: BT Soybeans, Vegetable Products, Fermented Products. NT Miso, Soy Proteins, Soy Sauces, Soybean Oils. UF natto, nyufu, soy our, soy milk, sufu, tempeh, tofu, tsukudani, vital. Soy Proteins: BT Protein Products, Soy Products, Proteins Vegetable. RT Textured Vegetable Proteins. UF okara protein, Promine [Central Soya Co.], Supro 620, yuba. Soy Sauces: BT Fermented Products, Sauces, Soy Products. UF moromi, shoyu. Soybean Oils: BT Oils Vegetable, Soy Products. Soybeans (Glycine max): BT Legumes, Oilseeds. NT Soy Products. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Sept. 2003) that is a thesaurus containing terms related to soybeans and soy products. Address: IFIS (International Food Information Service), Lane End House, Shineld, Reading RG2 9BB, England. 432. Cohen, Richard L. 1981. Local tofu makers and sellers trying to stir up interest within food market. San Francisco Business Journal. Oct. 20. p. 18-19. Summary: This interview with Jim Miller begins with the early history of Quong Hop & Co. The characters Quong Hop can be translated as expanding oneness or immense unity. The company is one of the largest tofu makers on the West Coast, and, so far as the company knows, it is the oldest in the country having been started shortly before the 1906 earthquake and re in San Francisco. Founded by Lee Sing How on Wentworth Street in [San Franciscos] Chinatown, the company spent the year after the earthquake in Oakland, and then returned to San Francisco to a new location on Waverly Place. During those early years, tofu was manufactured daily on the premises and sold. It was customary for many in San Franciscos Chinese community to get up at dawn and go to their local tofu
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shopwhich had been open since 2 a.m.and buy their daily needs. Quong Hop did well as a business until the start of World War II when a shortage of soybeans occurred, since almost all of the companys soybeans used at that time were imported from China. So Quong Hop stopped making regular tofu and restricted its product line to regular tofu, a product used as a condiment. In the early 1960s the company moved to a new location on Folsom Street, maintaining its factory but eliminating its retail store. Then the natural foods movement arrived and Quong Hop was swept up in it. In 1971 the company decided to expand its product line back to what it had once been, several varieties of tofu and soymilk. But Quong Hops main customers remained basically the same; Chinese Americans. In 1976 Quong Hop began using completely natural ingredientsincluding natural nigari. Today Quong Hops products are distributed to three main types of markets: (1) Oriental groceries and restaurants. (2) health and natural food stores. (3) supermarkets and other restaurants.
Photos show: (1) Jim Miller. (2) Some of Quong Hops many soyfood products. 433. Oka, Takashi. 1981. Italians trail Marco Polo; China triumphs at soccer. And Mongolian hot pot returns to the capitals restaurants. Peking diary. Christian Science Monitor. Nov. 2. p. 8. Summary: In Peking, the Mongolian hot pot is a doughnut-shaped charcoal-heated chang dish. The pot, which has a central chimney (i.e., the hole of the doughnut),
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU is associated with the Muslim minority, who do not eat pork. Donglaishun Restaurant is Pekings best-known hot pot restaurant, and now that cold weather is setting in, this way of cooking and its thinly sliced rinsed mutton are coming back into their own. You make your own sauce, ery or mild to suit your taste buds, out of sesame oil, shrimp sauce, fermented bean curd sauce, chili oil, garlic, and coriander. Muslim dietary habits, trampled on during the Cultural Revolution [1966-1976], are again being respected. Address: Staff correspondent. 434. Hodgson, Moira. 1981. Special holiday touch by special people. Special Thanksgiving touch. New York Times. Nov. 18. p. C1. Summary: Isaac Bashevis Singer, the author: Im a vegetarian, I eat neither meat nor sh. Im not going to kill a turkey as an expression of my gratitude to America. Betty Bao Lord, author of Spring Moon: For Thanksgiving we always have Mongolian hotpot... On the table there is a tray of sesame oil, soy sauce, shrimp paste, peanut butter, chili peppers, fermented bean curd and fresh eggs. Each person mixes his own sauce to taste. Address: Staff correspondent. 435. Product Name: [Tofurin Tofu Cheese (With Miso)]. Foreign Name: Tofurin. Manufacturers Name: Stichting Natuurvoeding Amsterdam. Renamed Manna Natuurvoeding B.V. in 1982. Manufacturers Address: Meeuwenlaan 70, 1021JK, Amsterdam, The Netherlands. Date of Introduction: 1981. Ingredients: Tofu, miso. New ProductDocumentation: Richard Leviton. 1983. Trip to Europe with American Soybean Assoc. Oct/Nov. Unpublished manuscript. p. 25. Tofurin tastes like cheese. It is tofu fermented with miso, then sterilized at 100C for 1 hour. Letter from Sjon Welters. 1989. July 24. Tofurin was developed by Sjon Welters for Manna and introduced together with Mannas tofu spreads [in 1981], in the same size glass jar. It was not really fermented, just tofu mixed with miso. Manna Bulletin. 1983. 5(4):1. June. The price of Tofurin has been reduced from 3.90 to 3.45 guilders. 436. Wood, Brian J.B.; Hounam, Laura. 1981. Dairy products from soy beans. In: 1981. Proceedings of Dairy Symposium at the Food Industries Exhibition, London. See p. 19-23. [16 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. History (of soy milk). Preparation and nature of traditional soy-milk and tofu. Practical aspects of soy milk and tofu. Products derived from tofu (salted tofu, smoked tofu, spiced and avored tofu, tofu
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burgers, Sufu {resembling Camembert cheese}). Economic considerations. Address: 1. Dep. of Applied Microbiology; 2. Centre for Industrial Innovation. Both: Univ. of Strathclyde, Glasgow, Scotland. 437. Hesseltine, Clifford W. 1981. Thom Award Address: A microbes view of fermentation. Developments in Industrial Microbiology 22:xv-xvi, 1-18. [21 ref] Summary: Pages xv to xvi give a brief biography and photo of Dr. Clifford W. Hesseltine, winner of the tenth Charles Thom Award on 14 Aug. 1980, presented by the Society for Industrial Microbiology. Dr. Hesseltine knew Dr. Charles Thom and was strongly inuenced by him, even though the two men never worked together. Dr. Hesseltines studies on the taxonomy of the Mucorales have resulted in a classication now in worldwide use... The research of Dr. Hesseltine on mycotoxins is world famous. He has directed the aatoxin project of the Fermentation Laboratory, NRRC... Dr. Hesseltines studies on fermented foods are equally well known. Included in this research has been the use of soybeans and cereals in Oriental fermented foods including tempeh, miso, Chinese cheese, and shoyu. Just 100 years ago the rst pure cultures of fungi were made by Brefeld, a German, who published his results in 1881. The development of submerged culture of penicillin production began in 1941 at the NRRL. The USA lost its leading role in industrial fermentation early in the 1960s due to weakness in research in many elds. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 438. Hom, Ken; Steiman, Harvey; Kee, Willie. 1981. Chinese technique: an illustrated guide to the fundamental techniques of Chinese cooking. New York, NY: Simon & Schuster. 345 p. Illust. 29 cm. * Summary: This comprehensive, illustrated guide to the art of Chinese cooking provides step-by-step instruction in the basic techniques of Chinese cuisine and more than one hundred traditional recipes. Page 217: Sauce: 2 cubes fermented red bean curd. 439. Jaffrey, Madhur. 1981. Madhur Jaffreys World-of-theEast vegetarian cookery. New York, NY: Alfred A. Knopf, Inc. 461 p. Illust. by Susan Gaber. Index. 20 x 20 cm. A second edition was published in 1983 in London by J. Cape. Summary: The Indian woman author of this creative book presents 21 recipes for bean curd (tofu), 7 for tempeh, and some for yuba and miso. Green soy beans with sauce (p. 7). Cabbage with miso (p. 15). Eggplant slices with white miso (p. 22-23). Fresh soy beans, steamed (p. 57). Spinach with fermented bean curd (p. 59). Stuffed yellow squash (with yuba, p. 62-64). Pecel (Vegetable salad with spicy peanut sauce, plus tofu and tempeh; p. 73-74). Tempura (with tofu; p. 75-77). Soy bean sprouts (how to grow; p. 100). Soy-bean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and mung-bean sprouts seasoned with sesame oil (p. 105). Tempeh, Fried tempeh, Fried, preseasoned tempeh, Sambal goreng tempeh kering (Sweet and sour tempeh), Tempeh cooked in coconut milk (p. 108-110). Thai fried rice (with Red Bean Curd or Nam Yee [red fermented tofu]; p. 150-51). One chapter (p. 160-89) is titled Soy milk, bean curd, and wheat gluten. Making your own soy milk. Making your own bean curd. Udofu (Yudofu, simmering bean curd with seasonings). Bean curd with watercress. Korean-style bean curd in a hot water bath. Hiya-yakko (Chilled bean curd). Bean curd with Chinese parsley. Bean curd with broccoli. Cabbage cooked with bean curd. Bean curd with a deliciously spicy sauce. Carrots and beans with bean curd dressing. Bean curd, mushrooms, and peanuts in hoisin sauce. Sauted bean curd. Tofu dengaku (Toasted bean curd with a miso topping). Fried bean curd cubes, soy-bean sprouts sauted with fried bean curd. Fried bean curd with a sweet-and-sour sauce. Fried bean curd cakes with a mustard surprise. Inari-zushi (Bags of fried bean curd stuffed with sushi rice). Pressed bean curd with cabbage. Salad of pressed bean curd, mung-bean sprouts, and agar-agar. How to make fried and baked wheat gluten balls (plus 5 gluten recipes). Buddhas delight (with yuba and fried bean curd). Chawanmushi (Steamed savory custards, with tofu; p. 192-94). Omelette with bean curd (p. 198-99). Soy sauce eggs (p. 209). Paneer (milk cheese; p. 237-40). Hot or cold noodles with a soy-sauce dressing (p. 248). Noodles with a hot-and-sour bean sauce (p. 250). Vegetarian mee krob (Crisp noodles with pressed bean curd and eggs, from Thailand, p. 255-56). Noodles with quail eggs, mushrooms, spinach, and yuba (Japan; p. 256-57). Hoppers (yeast pancakes from Sri Lanka). Roti (Flat whole-wheat bread). Delicious stock made with soy-bean sprouts. Clear soup with enok mushrooms, bean curd skins [yuba], and spinach (p. 297). Clear soup with soft bean curd and celery cabbage (p. 298). Miso soup with bean curd (p. 307). Miso soup with carrots and mushrooms (p. 308). Fried, munchable soy beans [soynuts] (p. 321-22). Potato and tempeh patties (p. 339). Dipping sauces (with soy sauce; p. 357-59). Kombu relish (with soy sauce, p. 374). Shoyu daikon (White radish pickled in soy sauce). Ginger quick-pickled soy sauce (p. 375). Aomidaikon (Quick pickled small white radishes, with slightly sweet yellow miso; p. 377-78). Chinese-style jellied bean-curd sweetmeat with a peanut topping (p. 399-400). General information (p. 418-36; lots on soyfoods, see: bean curd [regular, fried, fermented (Nam Yee), pressed, pressed seasoned], kochu chang [jang], miso, soy-, tempeh, yuba). Sources (of ingredients; p. 437-40). Address: New York City, NY. 440. McCallum, Cass. 1981. The real food guide. Vol. 2: Pulses, grains and seeds. Glasgow, Scotland: The Molendinar Press. 196 p. Index. 20 cm. Summary: The section on Anti-nutritional factors in
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pulses discusses those found in many legumes (such as haemagglutinins, trypsin inhibitors, phytic acid, atulence factors) and those of importance in specic legumes; for soybeans, only heat-resistant trypsin inhibitors are mentioned. The section on Basic bean cookery gives general guidelines and tips (never add salt until beans are cooked tender). A table (p. 54) shows that soybeans require the longest cooking time of any bean listed. The section titled A-Z pulses gives details (incl. the scientic name) concerning many legumes listed alphabetically. Includes adzuki, kura mame [sic, kuro mame = black soybeans] (p. 65), and winged beans. By far the longest section is on soy beans (p. 71-82). Contents: Introduction. Nutritional values. Dried soy bean products: Soy grits, soy coffee, soy our (full fat, medium fat, fat free), soy nuts, soy milk, soy yolk (a concentrated form of soy our), textured vegetable protein, soy splits, tofu powder. Fermented soy bean products: Black beansfermented, chao, chee-fan, chiang (Chinese miso), Hamanatto, ketjap, koji, meitauza, miso, mame miso, Hatcho miso, kome miso, mugi miso, natto, okara. Soy sauces: Introduction, Chinese soy sauce, ketjap, synthetic sauce, tamari. Sofu [sic, sufu], tahuri, tamari, tao-cho, taokoan or tao koan, taotjo or tao dji, tempeh, tofu. Tofu from whole beans (homemade recipe). Tofu from powdered [soy] milk. The part titled Recipes (p. 129-92) is divided into three sections. Soy-related recipes in each are listed here: (1) Soups and starters: Iced tofu (p. 134). miso soup (p. 138). Adzuki bean soup (p. 141). (2) Main dishes: Deep-fried tofu (p. 167). Szechuan bean curd (p. 168). (3) Bread, side dishes, sauces and desserts: Miso lemon sauce (p. 186). Miso ginger sauce (p. 187). Peanut butter (homemade recipe, p. 191). The rear cover states: These books ght a war against junk foodand win. The author is a woman. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word tao koan (or taokoan) to refer to tofu. Address: United Kingdom. 441. Rand McNally and Company. 1981. A guide to all China. Chicago, Illinois: Rand McNally. 143 p. Illust. (color). 21 cm. * Summary: Page 83: Changsha is famous for its marionette and shadow puppet theatres and visitors can also try the various restaurants offering hot and spicy Hunanese food. The regional specialty is chou doufustinking beancurd! Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term chou doufu. 442. Stobart, Tom; Owen, Millie. 1981. The cooks encyclopedia: Ingredients and processes. New York, NY: Harper & Row, Publishers, Inc. xii + 547 p. Illust. 25 cm. [20 ref] Summary: Soy related entries include: Bean curd (incl. tofu). Bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu]. Bean paste and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU bean sauce (incl. Red bean paste) is sweet and made from adzuki beans. Yellow bean paste is made from soybeans and is salty and pungent. Fermented salted black beans is made from a black variety of soybeans; these salted black beans can be used to make black bean sauce which can be used as a avoring in sh, lobster, chicken, and pork dishes. Soybean (incl. soya bean, soja bean, our {pork soya links used in Britain during World War II}, sprouts, soy oil, soy sauce, soymilk, vegetable yogurt [soy yogurt], vegetable cheese [soy cheese], tempeh, bean curd skin [yuba], miso, tamari, soy sauce, soy protein isolate, soy granules or grits, textured plant protein [textured soy protein]). The name in four European languages is given. Soy sauce or shoyu (It is said to be one of the ingredients of Worcestershire sauce. Incl. the very heavy Indonesian ketjap {ketjap manis or ketjap benteng}, which is a type of soy sauce,...). The name in four European languages is given. Textured plant protein (a high-protein foodstuff manufactured from plants (soybeans, peanuts, wheat, cottonseed, etc.). Originally it was aimed at the vegetarian market. Also called textured vegetable protein in the USA. Incl. textured soy our, textured soy protein gel and bers). Worcestershire sauce: Begins with a history (starting in 1837) based on the fanciful story so widely known. Thus was born what is probably the worlds best-known and most ubiquitous bottled sauce, one which has become a standard ingredient. Note: How about soy sauce? The exact formula is secret. Although it is much imitated, nobody seems to be able to get quite the taste of the original. Also contains entries for adzuki, ketchup (Javanese katjap [ketjap], for example, is a very sweet soy sauce), peanut (groundut or monkey nut), pulses, seaweed, sesame seed, tahini. Note: Millie Owen prepared the American edition of this book. Address: 1. Hassocks, Sussex, England; 2. Northeld, Vermont. 443. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1982. Tofu & soymilk production: A craft and technical manual. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Feb. 28 cm. [223 ref] Summary: The contents is identical to that of the original Aug. 1979 edition, but the publishers name has changed to Soyfoods Center from New-Age Foods Study Center. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 444. Product Name: Tofu: Soy Bean Curd. Manufacturers Name: Cauldron Foods Ltd. Manufacturers Address: Sunny Bank, Chapel Lane, Fish Ponds, Bristol 16, England. Phone: 858-881. Date of Introduction: 1982. March.
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Ingredients: Soy beans, water, nigari, magnesium chloride. How Stored: Refrigerated. New ProductDocumentation: Soyfoods Center Computerized Mailing List. 1983. June 20. Owners: Philip Marshall and Peter Fagan. Original address: Sunny Bank, Chapel Lane. Later: 4, Conduit Place, Lower Ashley Rd., St. Pauls, Bristol BS2 9RL, England. Richard Leviton. 1983. Trip to Europe with American Soybean Assoc. Oct/Nov. Unpublished manuscript. p. 2628. See history of the company. Philip Marshall and Peter Fagan started their partnership in Cauldron Foods in Sept. 1981. Philip was previously a partner with Paul Jones, and at the time he joined with Peter he was already a Bristol tofu maker selling some tofu in bulk to the converted. They now make 1,2001,500 lb/week of tofu, all in one day. They are planning to do a fermented tofu spread. Labels. 1983. 4 by 3 inches. Self adhesive. Blue and green on white. Bean vine drawing. Soy Bean Curd. All Natural Ingredients. High Protein. Cholesterol Free. Low Calorie. Label. 1983, undated. 3 by 4 inches. Self adhesive. Red, beige, green, and white. Soy Bean Curd. High protein 9.3%. Cholesterol Free. Low Calorie 85Kcal per 100 grams. All Natural Ingredients. Address: 4, Conduit Place, St. Pauls, Bristol, BS2 9RL. Soya Bluebook. 1985. p. 100. Ad in The Vegan. 1986. Summer. p. 4. Cooking with tofu? Look for the mark of quality. Tofu and smoked tofu. Address: 149A South Liberty Lane, Ashton Vale, Bristol, England. Letter from Neil Robinson. 1989. Aug. 7. The three major tofu products in Britain, as far as I know, are (1) Tofeata Tofu by Haldane Foods (Hera), Leicester, England; (2) Cauldron Foods, Bristol, England; (3) Truehealth Tofu by Birchwood Foods, Wrexham, Wales. Talk with Philip Marshall, founder. 1990. March 29. Cauldron Foods was founded in 1980 and began to produce tofu in late 1981 in Bristol. This was a pioneer tofu company in England. Note: This is the earliest record seen (April 2001) in connection with Cauldron Foods Ltd. 445. Quebral, Florenco C. 1982. [Soybeans in] The Philippines. INTSOY Series No. 22. p. 166-71. J.B. Sinclair and J.A. Jackobs, eds. Soybean Seed Quality and Stand Establishment (College of Agric., Univ. of Illinois at UrbanaChampaign). Summary: Contents: Introduction. Cultivar improvement. Planting. Inoculation and fertilization. Pests and diseases. Intensive cropping. Utilization. Costs and returns. Marketing. Marketing program. Areas that need attention. Cooperating agencies. The domestic supply of soybeans has never been sufcient to meet national demands for food, feed, and industrial uses. Total domestic soybean production in 1978 was reported to be 7,099 metric tons. Approximately
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 176,000 metric tons of soybeans, costing $30.8 million, were imported. To boost domestic production, the government has launched projects like Masaganang Maisan, the white corn and feed grains program, and the National Soybean Development Program... Researchers at the University of the Philippines at Los Baos have produced bottled soymilk (Philsoy) using the hot water grind technique... Fermented soybean products, such as soy sauce, soy cheese (tokwa [tofu]), soy paste (miso), soy curds (tahuri [tofu in brine]), and canned salted beans (tausi) are the most common soybean products used as ingredients in traditional Filipino dishes. A cheese-like product served with sugar syrup (taho) is sold by ambulant peddlers in urban centers. Address: Prof. of Plant Pathology, College of Agriculture, the Univ. of the Philippines at Los Baos. 446. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1982. Soyfoods industry: directory and databook. 2nd ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 56 p. June. 28 cm. [24 ref] Summary: A detailed study of the rapidly emerging soyfoods industry and market. Contains original statistics compiled by the Soyfoods Center through interviews with companies. Contents: 1. Terminology: The many types of soyfoods, traditional and modern. 2. Soyfoods industry directory: Names and addresses of over 850 soyfoods manufacturers in the Western world, plus major soymilk, miso, shoyu, and yuba manufacturers in East Asia. 3. Analysis of the soyfoods industry in the U.S. 4. Trends in U.S. and world soybean production: Graph of world soybean production (1922-1979) including graphs for the world total, USA, Asia total, and Latin America. Graph of U.S. soybean production, yields, and exports (1924-1979). 5. Analysis of the tofu industry in the West: The U.S. tofu market: overview and outlook. Graph of the number of tofu (and tempeh) manufacturers in the West from 1975 to 1982. Four-year analysis of the tofu industry in the West. Listing of North Americas largest tofu manufacturers and their weekly tofu output. Japans largest tofu manufacturers and their daily output. Favorite tofu, soymilk, and tempeh recipes as served at U.S. soyfoods, delis, cafe, and restaurants, or marketed as ready-to-serve products. Books on tofu published in America. 6. Analysis of the tempeh industry in the West: Graph of number of tempeh manufacturers. Recipes. Listing of North Americas largest tempeh manufacturers and their weekly output. 7. Analysis of the worldwide soymilk industry: Analysis of the soymilk industry in the United States. Analysis of the soymilk industry in Japan. Major Japanese soymilk companies and their products. 8. Analysis of the soy sauce / shoyu and miso industries worldwide. Statistics on fermented soyfoods in East Asia.
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The shoyu / soy sauce market in Japan (1886-1980). The miso market in Japan (1930-1980). Overview of the miso market in the United States. Miso exports from Japan (1981). Japans ten largest miso manufacturers and their output. 9. Other: Analysis of the soynuts industry in the U.S. North Americas larger soyfoods delis, cafes & restaurants. The soybean crushing industry; overview. 10. Soyfoods terminology and standards (Glossary of soyfoods terms): I. Traditional nonfermented soyfoods: Fresh green soybeans, okara, roasted soy our (soy coffee, soy chocolate), soybeans, soymilk (soymilk ice cream, soymilk soft serve, frozen soymilk yogurt, soymilk mayonnaise, soy shakes, soy nog, soymilk whipped cream), soynuts, soy sprouts, tofu (regular tofu, deep-fried tofu {deep-fried tofu cutlets called nama-age or atsu-age in Japan, deep-fried tofu burgers or burger balls, called ganmodoki or hiryozu in Japan, deep fried tofu pouches (called aburage in Japan; the words deep-fried may be dropped from the names after the initial usage, and in recipes or on package labels, if desired}, silken tofu {made without separation of curds and whey, called kinugoshi in Japan; modern types, all made with glucono delta-lactone as coagulant, and all known in Japanese as juten-dofu, are packaged lactone silken tofu, bagged lactone silken tofu (fukuro-dofu), sealed lactone silken tofu (buro-dofu), and Ever-Fresh Lactone Silken Tofu (in Tetra-Pak}), grilled tofu, frozen and dried-frozen tofu. (Note: It is illegal to describe the latter product as freezedried tofu, since freeze-drying is a completely different process), terms associated with making tofu {fresh soy puree, a coagulant or curding agent, forming box, lter bag or pressing sack, tofu comes in cakes, not blocks}), whole soy our, akes, and grits, yuba. II. Traditional fermented soyfoods: Fermented soymilk products (soymilk yogurt {Soy Yogurt, Soyogurt, Soygurt}, acidophilus soymilk, soymilk ker, viili, piima, buttermilk {Soy Ker, etc.}), fermented tofu (wine-fermented tofu, brine-fermented tofu), miso (rice miso, barley miso, soybean miso, Chinese soybean chiang), natto (thua-nao from Thailand and kenima from Nepal; all are non-salted), soy nuggets (Chinese soy nuggets know as shih, tou-chih, tou-shih, or dow-si; savory soy nuggets called Hamanatto in Japan, Daitokuji soy nuggets called Daitokuji natto in Japan, Philippine soy nuggets called tausi or tao-si in the Philippines, Indonesian soy nugget paste called tauco, formerly spelled tao-tjo, Malaysian soy nugget sauce called tao-si), soy sauce (shoyu. The ve basic types of Japanese shoyu are: regular shoyu called koikuchi shoyu in Japanese, light-colored shoyu called usukuchi shoyu, tamari shoyu, clear shoyu called shiro shoyu, and rich shoyu called saishikomi shoyu), tempeh, other fermented soyfoods. III. Soy oil and modern soy protein foods: soy oil, defatted soy our, akes and grits, soy protein concentrate, soy protein isolate, textured soy protein products (TSP, TVP is a registered trademark of the Archer Daniels Midland
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Company and cannot be used as a generic name for this product), meat analogs (foods typically made from spun soy protein bers to resemble meat, sh, or poultry products). 11. Names of soyfoods around the world: Names of 40 products. Brazilian / Portuguese names. British English names. Chinese names (fermented tofu is Toufu-ju or Sufu). French names, German names. Japanese names. Spanish names. 12. Key institutions working with soyfoods in the West: The Soyfoods Center, Soyfoods Association of North America, INTSOY, American Soybean Association, Bean Machines, Inc., Soycrafters Apprenticeship Program, USDA Northern Regional Research Center, Sojaquelle. About The Soyfoods Center. Note: This is the 2nd market study published by Shurtleff. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 447. Dominguez de Diez Gutirrez, Blanca. 1982. Re: Names of soyfoods around the world: Spanish. Form lled out and returned to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, July 9. 1 p. Handwritten. [Eng] Summary: Gives the names of all the various soyfoods in Spanish. Note: A typed list of these names is published in Soyfoods Industry and Market: Directory and Databook, 1985. 5th ed. p. 164. Fresh green soybeansFrijol de soya tierno o ejote de soya. Whole dry soybeansLa soya, Frijol de soya. Black soybeansFrijol de soya negro. Fresh soy pureePure de frijol de soya. Soy sproutsGerminados de soya. Soynuts Soya-nuez (nuez means walnuts or pecans), Soya-huate (means peanuts from cacahuate). Oil roasted soynutsSoya nuez tostada (meaning nut). Dry roasted soynutsSoya-huate tostado (meaning peanuts). Soynut butterMantequilla de soya. Roasted soy ourHarina de soya tostada (kinako). Soy coffeeSoyafee. Soy chocolateSoyalate. Soymilk Leche de soya. Soymilk ice creamHelado de leche de soya. Soymilk curdsCuajada de soya, Jocoque de leche de soya. TofuTofu, Queso de soya, Cuajada de soya. Soft tofuTofu blando. (Regular) TofuTofu comun. Firm TofuTofu rme. Extra rm tofuTofu extra rme. (Deep fried) Tofu cutlets chuletas de tofu. (Deep fried) Tofu burgersHamburguesas o tortitas de tofu. (Deep fried) Tofu pouchesSaquitos de tofu. Silken tofuTofu sedoso. Pressed silken tofuTofu sedoso prensado. Grilled tofuTofu a la parrilla. Dried frozen tofu Tofu seco congelado. Okara or soy pulpOkara, pasta de soya, pulpa de soya. YubaYuba. Soy nuggetsPalanquetas de soya. Miso or soybean jianMiso (el). Soy sauceSalsa de soya. ShoyuShoyu (el). TamariTamari. HVP soy sauceHave not found it. TempehTempeh (el). Fermented tofutofu fermentado. Fermented / cultured soymilkLeche de soya fermentada. Natto, thua-nao, kinemaNatto (el). Soy oilaceite de soya. Soy lecithinLecitina de soya. Soy fourHarina de soya. Whole (full fat) soy ourHarina de
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soya entera. Defatted soy ourHarina de soya degrasada. Soy grits and akesSoya martajada y hojuelas de soya. Cereal-soy blends (CSM, WSB, etc.)Soyavena (with oatmeal). Soy protein concentrateConcentrado de proteina de soya. Soy protein isolateAislado de soya. Textured soy protein productProductos de soya texturizada. Textured soy our, TSF, or TSPHarina de soya texturizada. Textured soy concentratesConcentrados de soya texturizada. Textured soy isolateAislados de soya texturizada. Spun soy protein bersFibra de protea hilada de soya. Soy casmar, Soya Cocoa, Coco soyaBeverages made with chocolate or cocoa. PastisoyaLike spaghetti or noodles of different kinds made with soy ourcommercial products. VegesoyaCommercial products for soups. Soya mex and Chocosoyafor beverages. Soya pacTextured soya like meat, also a commercial product. Address: Apdo. Postal 226, Jalapa, Veracruz, Mexico. 448. Ebine, Hideo. 1982. Re: Retirement from the National Foods Research Institute, Japan. Chapter on nyufu. Kibuns soy yogurt. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Aug. 13. 1 p. Handwritten, with signature on letterhead. [Eng] Summary: On 1 April 1982, Ebine retired from the National Food Research Institute (NFRI). In the 1971 book Daizu Shokuhin (by Watanabe, Ohta, and Ebine), the chapter on Nyufu [fermented tofu] was written by Ohta. In 1981 Kibun started to sell commercial soy yogurt in Japan. Address: Japanese Society of Food Science and Technology, 2-1-2 Kannondai, Yatabe-machi, Tsukuba-gun, Ibaraki 305, Japan. 449. Spencer, Colin. 1982. Food... and dont rely on sympathetic waiters. Guardian (England). Oct. 1. p. 10. Summary: Todays column is about vegetarianism. The Vegetarian Society has recently come up with a new symbol, a green V for restaurants, pubs, eating houses and snack bars to display. Vegetarian Restaurants in England, compiled by Leslie Nelson (published by Penguin) is a useful guide. The Seven Sheaves in the East West Centre [macrobiotic] (188 Old Street, London, EC1) is another remarkable restaurant, where I ate my rst bowl of tempeha fermented tofu [sic] high in protein. It tasted of eld mushroom, white trufe anddare I say it?grouse. Note: Tempeh, which is a cake of fermented soybeans, is completely different from tofu, which is not fermented. And fermented tofu is much different from regular nonfermented tofu. 450. Soyplant (The). 1982. Getting to know your tofu (Leaet). Ann Arbor, Michigan. 1 p. Undated. 28 cm. Summary: Contents: What is tofu? Taste. Texture.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Freshness. Cooking methods. Blending. Freezing. Marinating. Measuring. Draining. Variations: Frozen tofu, dried-frozen tofu, fermented tofu, deep-fried tofu. Address: Ann Arbor, Michigan. Phone: (313) 663-8638. 451. Tsuchiya, Kanji. 1982. Tny. Shinban [Soymilk. 2nd ed.]. Tokyo: Shoku no Joho-sha. 223 p. First edition was published in 1980. Illust. 17 cm. [Jap] Summary: Continued. Pages 31-32. In the literature of Japans Muromachi period it is written that after eating confections (tenshin such as okashi, oyatsu) they ate light and simple food (tanpaku na tabemono). One of the latter was called tofu no uwamono, which means yuba. A ow diagram (p. 35-36) gives Chinese names of soymilk, yuba, fermented tofu, etc. Part III (p. 39-64) titled Soymilk around the world, has chapters on the USA, Korea, Hong Kong, China, Taiwan, Southeast Asia, and Europe. Soymilk in America (p. 4752) includes a 1975 table showing major manufacturers of soymilk and soy-based infant formula, their location, and the names of their products. Soymilk in Korea (p. 53-54): In 1968 the Keijo Shison Shokuhin Kenkyujo made soymilk using the regular tofu making equipment adjusted to make a product as similar as possible to dairy milk, then bottled it in cider bottles, pasteurized it, and sold it. They made 500 to 800 bottles a day and sold it nationwide. It was brownish in color and tasted like soybean cooking liquid; there was no comparison between that and todays soymilk in quality. The head of this research lab was Dr. Son Zaien, who also ran the childrens hospital and was a professor of pediatrics at Seoul Medical University. As a pediatrician his concern was that the soymilk promote the growth and health of children; he was not concerned about its acceptance among adults. The children accepted it within 2-3 days. Later, in May 1982, Tsuchiya visited Korea again. They had developed their own method of making soymilk and the soymilk plant had been expanded. Now they produced 500,000 bottles a day (180 cc each, retort sterilized); they call it Vegemil / Vegemeal. It contains added fat and sugar to make it closer to dairy milk., but the sugar content is 10%, which is sweeter than Japanese soymilk. The plant is built on a lot of 4-5,000 tsubo and has 24 retort sterilizers; each machine has 2,500 bottles capacity. Th Yury, as part of a Korean technical joint venture with Kibun in Japan, is going to make 120-130,000 Tetra Brik cartons (each 200 cc). Also other dairy milk makers (Soj and Sangan) are going to have some sort of equipment to start making soymilk. Also, I head that Ta Shokuhin (K.K.), a pharmaceutical company, is planning a joint venture with Meiji in Japan to make soymilk. Also, Lotte Chilsung Beverage Co. is planning to use Marusans (Japan) technology to make soymilk. They are constructing a plant to start to making soymilk in Feb. 1983.The population of Korea is about 40 million and the GNP 24,000 million won (unit of currency) a year; it is the
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largest in Asia. But it is a tough war for market share among these ne companies. Soymilk in Taiwan (p. 57-61): People who were born in Taiwan [the former Japanese colony of Formosa (18951945)] have Japanese food habits and dont like soymilk as much as the Chinese. Also, Taiwanese young people dont like soymilk much. In mainland China people only drink water that has been boiled and cooledjust as they do with tea. The same with soymilk. They boil soymilk in a at pan (hira-nabe) for 20-30 minutes before selling it. The buyers dont buy it without seeing that it has been properly boiled. If you cook soymilk in a at pan for a long time, you can eliminate much of the beany smell and avor, the antidigestion substances, and harmful bacteria. They dont care about a little burned avor, bitterness, or beany avor. But this is ancient wisdom. There they continue to drink soymilk up to this day and it is still very popular. It is said that the annual sale of soymilk in Taiwan is about 5,000 million yen. In China, sellers of ice candy (like ice Popsicles) call out loudly kaishui bingo. Kaishui means boiled and cooled water. Bingo means Popsicle. In the Philippines, about 10 years ago, the University of the Philippines developed soymilk and a blend of soymilk and coconut milk for American children. It was test marketed among the students and teachers of elementary schools, junior and senior high schools, and universities. It was acceptable only to comparatively well educated people. A 200 ml bottle (about 7 ounces) sold for 15 cents, making it more expensive than most other drinks. The taste was plain but the bean smell was not completely removed. In October 1982 Dr. William G. Padorina and other economically inuential people came to Japan at the request of President Ferdinand Marcos and studied Marusans soymilk plant. They are planning a Food Development Symposium in Feb. 1983 and they would like to have nutritious soy products that contain coconut oil (they account for 70% of the worlds production). They have asked Marusan to cooperate in the effort. In Denmark, a company named Starna [Nutana?] makes various soyfoods such as textured soy our (daizu nikku), defatted soymilk, and soymilk. They are selling these products in Denmark and neighboring countries. The Book of Tofu by Shurtleff and Aoyagi is mentioned on pages 46 and 117. Okazaki Marusan makes a soy yogurt named Tgurt / Tguruto in Japanese. The character t, which means bean, is also the rst character in the word tfu (p. 71). Address: Technical consultant, Okazaki Marusan, Japan. 452. Kurima.1982. Okinawa no shoku: Tfuy [Okinawan foods: Tofuyo fermented tofu]. No. 9. p. 164. [Jap; eng+] Summary: Some people compare tofuyo with Chinesestyle fermented tofu (funy), however tofuyo has a more
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU complicated avor. It is good to drink millet brandy (awamori) as you nibble on tofuyo. People used to make tofuyo at home but it takes too much time, so nowadays it is found mainly at specialized restaurants. Tofu is cut into squares about 1 inch on a side and the pieces are dried in the shade for a few days until they get slimy. They are washed with millet brandy and immersed in rice malt which has been moistened with millet brandy. You may start to eat tofuyo after one month, but it seems to reach its peak of avor after 6 months. Tofuyo is a type of cheese created in Okinawa, where tofu and millet brandy are loved. It is sold at Urizen, 388-5 Anni, Naha city, Okinawa. Phone: 0988-85-2178. Hours: 5:30 p.m. to midnight. Closed the 2nd and 4th Sunday of each month. Note: As of Nov. 2011 awamori is made from Thai-style long-grained Indica rice (not millet) and black koji mold, indigenous to Okinawa; after distillation it is often aged like whiskey. 453. Product Name: Maggy Jinns Bean Cake Dressing. Date of Introduction: 1982. New ProductDocumentation: Talk with Jim Miller, V.P. Marketing & Personnel, Quong Hop & Co., 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. (Phone: 415-8734444 or 761-2022), 1985. June 13. In about 1982 the rst commercial Western-style prepared food using fermented tofu as a primary ingredient was introduced. Called Maggy Jinns Bean Cake Dressing it was a Roquefort-style salad dressing sold in a bottle as part of a six-pack of bottled dressings and sauces. The fermented tofu was imported from Hong Kong. 454. An, Tzu-chieh (An, Zijie). 1982. Cracking the Chinese puzzles. 5 vols. Hong Kong: Stockows Co. 24 cm. Summary: Vol. 2, p. 1099 contains an entry for the Chinese character Fu, which means rotten, putrid, stale, corroded, bean curd,... Doufu is bean curd. Furu is fermented bean curd. Fuzhu is dried bean milk cream in tight rolls [i.e., shaped into tight rolls]. Fuzhu might also be called dried yuba sticks. Note: Vol. 2 contains pages ix + p. 675-1358. 455. Aykroyd, Wallace R.; Doughty, Joyce. 1982. Legumes in human nutrition. 2nd ed. Rome, Italy: Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO). viii + 152 p. Illust. 28 cm. The original edition was 1964. [Eng]* Summary: Contents: Preface. Introduction. History of legumes. Production and consumption. Composition and nutritive value. Methods of processing and cooking. Effects of processing on nutritive value. Toxic substances. Legume proteins. Observations on the value of legumes in human feeding. The place of legumes in human diets. Appendixes. References.
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On pages 49-51 are sub-sections on: Traditional fermented soybean products (methods of preparation are detailed in Appendix 5): Soy sauce (shoyu), soy paste (miso), tempeh, natto, Hammanatto. Protein separation and other extraction techniques. Soy-milk. Soybean curd (tofu). Modern products from soybeans. Soy our and grits. Soy protein concentrates. Isolated soy protein. Under tofu (p. 50): The curd may also be fermented to make soy-cheeses, which resemble the more highly avoured European cheeses. These are known in China as chou tofu, which means stinking bean curd. See also p. 120, where yuba is mentioned. Note: This 1982 edition was made by revising the original 1964 edition. The revisions were made by Joyce Doughty and Ann Walker (Dep. of Food Science, University of Reading). Dr. Wallace Aykroyd died in Feb. 1979 just as he was taking the rst steps toward this revision. Address: 1. Dep. of Human Nutrition, London School of Hygiene and Tropical Medicine; Former Director, Nutrition Div., FAO, Rome, Italy. 456. Bernstein, Richard. 1982. From the center of the earth: The search for the truth about China. Boston & Toronto: Little, Brown and Co. xii + 260 p. Index. 24 cm. Summary: Page viii, titled A Note on Romanization, states: Every system ever devised for rendering the Chinese language into the Roman alphabet has its imperfections. The Communist Chinese in 1979 put into use an alphabet called pinyin (literal meaning: combine sounds) that has gained international acceptance. It is the system that I have used for most Chinese names and phrases. It has a couple of idiosyncrasies. The initial x is pronounced like the English sh; for example, Deng Xiaoping might be more phonetically rendered as Deng She-ao Ping. The letter q, which in pinyin is sometimes not followed by a u, sounds like the English ch, as in the Emperor Qianlong (pronounced Chee-en Loong). The letter c is pronounced ts, as in Cao Yu, the famous dramatist, whose name was formerly spelled Tsao Yu. Otherwise, pinyin gives a pretty close idea of the way Chinese words are actually spoken. In two kinds of situations, however, I do not use pinyin. First, for two well known gures, Mao Tse-tung and Chou En-lai (pinyin would be Mao Zedong and Zhou Enlai), I have stuck with the old alphabetization for reasons of greater familiarity. The second case concerns some words that by common practice have for decades been spelled in a way that conformed to no standard system of romanization. These include the place-names Peking (pinyin: Beijing), Canton (Guangzhou), Nanking (Nanjing), Chungking (Chongqing), and Hong Kong (Xianggang), as well as a few historical gures, like the ancient philosopher Chuang-tse and Nationalist leader Chiang Kai-shek. These alphabetizations are more likely to be recognized by the nonspecialist than are the standardized pinyin spellings.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU During the three disastrous yearsthe period from 1959 to 1961after the Great Leaf Forward, there was extensive starvation in China, but the number of those who died were never made public (p. 199). Tang remembers the time that prisoners were given some pieces of bean curd to eat. She was so overjoyed that she didnt want to eat all of it at once but kept some of it apart and managed to ferment it. She says that it was the most delicious thing that she ever ate in her life (p. 213). Address: Time magazine correspondent, China. 457. Coyle, L. Patrick, Jr. 1982. The world encyclopedia of food. New York, NY: Facts on File, Inc. xv + 790 p. Illust. Index. 28 cm. Summary: Contains basic information (sometimes interesting, often supercial, with quite a few errors) about some 4,000 foods and beverages, including worldwide staples (potatoes, soybeans, apples), local specialties, delicacies, major brand-name products (Coca-Cola) and oddities (penguin eggs, grasshoppers). With 200 line drawings, 150 black-and-white photos, and 50 color plates. See entries for soybean (incl. black soybeans, fermented tofu, miso, soybean our, soybean milk, soybean oil, soy sauce, tempeh; tofu, white soybeans), and Worcestershire sauce (which is said to contain more than 100 ingredients, including soy sauce, vinegar, molasses, chili, anchovies, garlic, shallots, tamarinds, limes and many spices). Tofu: A fermented form of this, called stinking tofu, is a favorite snack of the Chinese. It has a pungent smell and is usually deepfried [deep fried] and seasoned with soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic or chili paste. The food value is high... (p. 643). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term stinking tofu. Also has entries for: Almond, chufa, peanut, peanut butter, peanut oil, seaweed (incl. algae, dulse, laver, rock weed / sea wrack, agar-agar, carrageen, kelp), sesame (with illustration of leaves, ower, and pods). Address: Freelance writer, Oceanside, California. 458. Reddy, N.R.; Pierson, M.D.; Sathe, S.K.; Salunkhe, D.K. 1982. Legume-based fermented foods: Their preparation and nutritional quality. CRC Critical Reviews in Food Science and Nutrition 17(4):335-70. [125 ref] Summary: Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Soy sauce. 3. Tempeh. 4. Meitauza. 5. Miso. 6. Natto. 7. Sufu. 8. Fermented soybean milk and other fermented legume milk products. 9. Kenima [sic, kinema]. 10. Oncom (fermented peanut press cake). 11. Waries. 12. Papadams. 13. Dhokla. 14. Khaman. 15. Idli. 16. Dawadawa. 17. Other legumefermented foods. 18. Future of legume-based fermented foods. References. Nutritional composition is given. Note: The source of the misinformation about kenima is Batra and Millner (1976). Address: 1-2. Virginia
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Polytechnic Inst. and State Univ., Blacksburg, Virginia; 3. Univ. of Arizona, Tucson; 4. Mahatma Phule Agricultural Univ., Rahuri, Maharashtra State, India. 459. Reed, Gerald. ed. 1982. Prescott & Dunns industrial microbiology. 4th ed. Westport, Connecticut: AVI Publishing Co. xii + 884 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. Summary: Chapter 12 (p. 492-538; 129 refs.), by H.L. Wang and C.W. Hesseltine, is titled Oriental Fermented Foods. It discusses: Soy sauce, miso, tempeh, ontjom, Hamanatto (known as tou-shih in China, tao-si in the Philippines, and tao-tjo in the East Indies [No! Tao-tjo is Indonesian-style miso]), sufu (also called Chinese cheese or bean cake), natto, idli, ang-kak, fermented sh products (incl. nuoc-mam), absence of mycotoxin in fermented foods, summary. Address: Vice president, Amber Labs, Milwaukee, Wisconsin. 460. Simonds, Nina. 1982. Classic Chinese cuisine. Boston, Massachusetts: Houghton Mifin. xi + 353 p. Illust. Map. Index. 23 cm. Summary: This is a remarkable book by one who is part of a new generation of American chefs and food writers. The Pinyin system of romanization, which was of romanization, which was ofcially adopted by the Peoples Republic of China in 1979, has been used for most of the Chinese words in this book (p. vi). A map of China (facing page 1) shows the individual provinces and the four main culinary schools: northern, western, eastern, and southernas explained on pages 1-4. Taiwan is considered part of the eastern school. The southern school is comprised of only two provinces: Guangdong (which includes the city of Guangzhouformerly named Canton) and Guangxi. Soyfoods are used and discussed liberally throughout this book. The section titled Condiments, seasonings, and special ingredients (p. 5-11) gives detailed discussions of hoisin sauce, oyster sauce, soy sauce (the three grades are light, medium and heavy, with light having a delicate and slightly more subtle avor than the other varieties), sweet bean sauce (and bean pastes including brown bean paste and yellow bean paste), fermented black beans (and black bean sauce). The next section, Selected fresh and pickled vegetables (p. 11-14) has an entry for bean sprouts (the two main types are sprouted from mung beans {which are green} and soybeans {which are yellow}; soybean sprouts have a stronger avor and require longer cooking). Soy related recipes: Beef with noodles in a pot (with 2 cakes bean curd, p. 76). Cold spicy noodles (with 2 cakes bean curd, about 3 inches square and 1 inch thick, p. 80). One chapter, titled Soybeans and bean curd (p. 11329) begins with a charming introduction to stinky bean curd (fermented tofu). As evening fell after dinner, luscious
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU scents and fragrances lled the air. Yet there was a putrid smell that deed classication. What was that bafing, pungent odor, present in every part of the city. After a bit of research she soon discovered that it came from stinky bean curd (chou dou fu), a favorite snack of the Chinese. Vendors of this unusual delicacy ran rampant all over the city with their portable deep deep-fryers. My Chinese surrogate sister and brothers, who were great fans of the stuff, used to race outside, armed with empty bowls and chopsticks, at the sound of the stinky bean curd mans call. (The smell usually preceded him by two blocks, giving everyone plenty of notice.) It is made by fermenting fresh bean curd squares in a brine with assorted spices and pickled vegetables. The resulting cakes are deep-fried... until golden and eaten with soy sauce, vinegar, mashed garlic, or chili paste. The soybean is used to make various Chinese seasonings including soy sauce, hoisin sauce, sweet bean sauce or paste, and hot bean paste. Fresh green soybeans are cooked and served with soy sauce and sesame oil. Whole dry soybeans are fried and eaten as a snack. The nutritious properties of the soybean further explain why it is so popular with the health-conscious Chinese. Heating soybean milk gives bean milk sheets (fu pi). Also mentions bean curd sticks (fu zu), bean curd sheets (bai ye), and bean curd noodles (gan si). In terms of consistency, the three basic types of bean curd are soft, medium, and hard (dou fu gan). Bean curd is also fermented in rice wine and spices to make a popular seasoning (dou fu ru), which has a slightly cheeselike avor. Nina concludes the introduction: As most nutritionists will agree, the soybean and its many by-products are the foods of the future. Line drawings show: soybeans, bean curd, bean milk sheets, bean curd sheets, bean curd sticks, and bean curd noodles. Recipes in this soy chapter: Meatball and soybean casserole (with 4 cups dry soybeans, p. 116). Sweet soybean milk (How to make at home; the Chinese equivalent of Americas cup of coffee for breakfast, with 2 cups dry soybeans and 1 cup sugar. Typically accompanied by a sesame at bread {shao bing} and a fried cruller {you tiao}). Stir-fried soybean sprouts with red-in-snow. Stuffed bean curd rolls (with 8 dried bean curd sheets or bean milk sheets). Sweet-and-sour sh slices (with 10 dried bean milk sheets). Eggplant rolls (with 6 dried bean milk sheets). Buddhas delight (a well-known vegetarian dish, with 2 ounces bean curd sticks). Cold tossed bean curd and celery shreds (from Sichuan, with 8 cakes bean curd, about 3 inches square and 1 inch thick). Red-cooked bean curd. Braised bean curd with black mushrooms in oyster sauce (from Sichuan). Stuffed bean curd (from Canton). Ma po bean curd (from Sichuan). Eight-treasure stir-fried vegetables with meat (with 3 cakes bean curd, about 3 inches square and 1 inch thick). Northern-style bean curd (p. 129). More soy related recipes: Steamed sh llets in black
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bean sauce (with 1 tablespoon fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and minced, p. 183). Double-cooked pork slices (with 3 cakes bean curd, p. 230). Steamed spareribs in black bean sauce (with 2 tablespoons fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and coarsely chopped, p. 234). Stuffed peppers in black bean sauce (with 1 tablespoon fermented black beans, rinsed, drained, and minced, p. 272). One entire chapter is titled Vegetarian dishes (p. 279-94). The introduction discusses the Kuantu Temple (a Buddhist-Taoist sanctuary about 1 hour drive from Taipei), and the origin of vegetarian cuisine in China in early Buddhist and Taoist monastery kitchens. Wheat gluten (mian jin) and related preparations such as deep-fried wheat gluten balls (mian jin pao) steamed wheat gluten chunks (kao fu), plus seasonings such as pickled bean curd (dou fu ru) are often used. Soy related: Broccoli in mock crabmeat sauce (with 1 cake bean curd, p. 285). Vegetarian lions head (with 4 cakes bean curd, p. 287). Mock goose (with 20 bean milk sheets, p. 290-91). Vegetarian eight treasures (with 2 cakes bean curd, p. 291). Wheat gluten (how to make at home from wheat our, p. 292). More soy related: Eight-treasure mixed soup pot (with 2 cakes bean curd, p. 310-11). Hot and sour soup (with 2 cakes bean curd, p. 316). About the author: A photo of Nina Simonds (in Chinese clothing) appears on the inside rear dust jacket. She studied Chinese food and cooking, language and culture, in Taiwan for more than three years (she arrived there at age 19) with Chinese master chefs at the Wei-Chuan school in Taipei, while living with a Chinese family. She subsequently received the Grand Diplme from La Varenne cole de Cuisine in Paris, where she also taught Chinese cooking. For the past eight years (prior to 1982) she has taught in cooking schools all over the United States and Canada and her articles have appeared in Gourmet and Cuisine magazines and the Boston Globe (from the inside rear dust jacket). Address: Salem, Massachusetts. 461. Tropp, Barbara. 1982. The modern art of Chinese cooking. New York, NY: William Morrow and Co. 623 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. Summary: One of the best and most authoritative books on Chinese food written by a Westerner, who is a Chinese scholar turned Chinese cook, and who lives in San Francisco. Contains an excellent, long Glossary of Ingredients (p. 529-81) with extensive information about Chinese foods (plus their names spelled phonetically in Mandarin and Cantonese) including: Hoisin sauce (Mandarin: hai-hsyenjyang; Cantonese: hoi-seem-jyenug. The characters mean sea-freshness sauce. She uses a widely distributed brand, Koon Chun, that is jam-like in consistency and on the sweet side). Mock meat (Mandarin: myen-jin; Cantonese: ming-gun. incl. Companion brand Braised Dried Bean Curd, Curried Braised Gluten, Curry Vegetarian Mock
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Duck, and Longevity brand Curried Mock Abalone). MSG (Originally made from dried fermented wheat gluten). Salted black beans (Mandarin: doe-jrr; Cantonese: dao-see; soy nuggets. This popular Chinese seasoning is also known as Chinese black beans, salted beans, fermented black beans, and occasionally ginger black beans. Shreds of ginger or orange peel or a dash of ve-spice powder occasionally added to season the beans in the nal soaking stage. Barbara prefers salted black beans that are seasoned with ginger and she avoids the kind seasoned with ve-spice powder. She uses Mee Chun brand and does not wash salted black beans, as is common; it is a practice she has never understood). A recipe for Hot and sour Hunan chicken (p. 142-43), in the ingredients section titled Aromatics, calls for 2 tablespoons Chinese salted black beans (page 561). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (July 2011) that uses the term Chinese salted black beans to refer to soy nuggets. This term is also used in recipes for Garlic-stewed sparerib nuggets (p. 203) and Hunan eggplant with spicy meat sauce (p. 293). Soyfoods: Introduction, soy sauce (Kikkoman soy sauce {Barbaras everyday favorite}, thin soy sauce, black soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce; good Chinese brands are Superior and Koon Chun). Tofu (fermented tofu {incl. Pepper Bean Cake with hot chili akes[la jiao doufu-ru]}, fresh tofu, pressed tofu. Mushroom soy sauce is a avored soy sauce, something between thin soy sauce and black soy sauce in saltiness. The brand I like best is Pearl River Bridge, which is made specically with straw mushrooms and is classied in Chinese as black soy sauce owing to a touch of sugar that is included in the mixture, p. 569). Note: This is the earliest document seen (June 2011) that uses the term ginger black beans to refer to soy nuggets (douchi). Ms. Tropp (see photo on inside rear dust jacket) studied Chinese language, poetry, and art history at Columbia University, Yale, Princeton, and the University of Taiwan. Her two-year sojourn in Taiwan found her living with remarkable Chinese families. On the rear cover is a nice long quotation from James Beard. 462. Wang, H.L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1982. Oriental fermented foods. In: G. Reed, ed. 1982. Prescott & Dunns Industrial Microbiology, 4th ed. Westport, CT: AVI Publishing Co. xii + 883 p. See p. 492-538. Chap. 12. [129 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Soy sauce. Miso. Tempeh. Ontjom. Hamanatto. Sufu. Natto. Idli. Ang-kak. Fermented sh products (esp. nuoc mam). Absence of mycotoxin in fermented foods. Summary. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 463. Whole Foods (Berkeley, California).1983. Getting to know your tofu. Jan. p. 13. [2 ref]
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Summary: A one-page introduction to tofu based on Tofu Cookery by Louise Hagler and The Book of Tofu by Shurtleff and Aoyagi. Contents: What is tofu? Taste. Texture. Freshness. Cooking methods. Blending. Freezing. Marinating. Measuring. Draining. Variations: Frozen tofu, dried-frozen tofu, fermented tofu, deep-fried tofu. 464. Hansen, Barbara. 1983. Cookbook welcomes the new year: A few celebrity recipes added to old favorites. Los Angeles Times. Feb. 10. p. L1, L29. [1 ref] Summary: The Los Angeles Chinese Womens Club has reissued its cookbook, Gourmet Celestial, rst published in 1970. Income from sales is used to fund scholarships. The book includes several meatless recipes that are traditionally served during the 24-hour fasting period that runs from midnight of Chinese New Years Eve to the sundown of New Years day. One of these given here, Chinese meatless dish (Law Hon Jai) includes: pound dried bean curd stick [bamboo yuba], soaked overnight and cut into 2 inch lengths,... pound sweet dry bean curd, soaked overnight then halved,... 4 or 5 pieces fried bean curd, quartered,... cup fermented bean curd cake [fermented tofu], cup red bean curd. Address: Times staff writer. 465. Leonard, Thom. 1983. Pioneering work with miso in America (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Feb. 12. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: In the fall of 1974, Thom Leonard made his rst batch of barley koji and barley miso using a recipe in Herman Aiharas new book titled Soybean Diet. The 80-pound batch of miso was aged in a soy sauce keg from Hong Kong. He then made 80-pound batches of chunky wheat miso in the fall of 1975 (he later pickled tofu in it) and of barley miso in early 1976. After moving to Fayetteville, Arkansas, he and Jim Hemminger made larger scale miso equipment and on 15 April 1977 packed their rst 35-gallon cedar vat with brown-rice miso. Soon over 1,000 lb were aging in the vats. This miso was sold to and distributed by the Ozark Cooperative Warehouse. Thom and Richard Kluding founded the rst Caucasianrun miso company in North America, Ohio Miso Co. in Monroeville, Ohio. They began production on 13 March 1979. By Jan. 1980 Ohio Miso was making several varieties of miso: brown rice, barley (one or two year), mellow brown rice, mellow red, and black soybean; output was 2,400 lb/ week. Then in the spring of 1980 Leonard and Kluding split up, largely because of interpersonal problems. In the summer of 1980 Leonard taught miso classes at the macrobiotic Spiral Inn and Moniteau Farm in Missouri. Then in late 1980 he taught 2 classes on making miso, natto, tofu, and tempeh at the Kushi Institute in Boston, Massachusetts, with 30-40 people per class. In 1981 and 1982 he taught 8 similar classes out of his home in Boston, plus four 3-day
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU residential workshops on the same subjects. All were sold out every time. In 1983 he plans to travel Ireland to start a miso plant in County Kilkenny. Friends of his own several old buildings. The Irish government will help pay startup costs, covering 45% of the required startup capital plus 25% of the rent for the rst 5 years. He hopes to be start in July 1983 and be producing miso by late 1983. He hopes to make 100,000 to 200,000 pounds of mostly barley miso, both mellow barley and 12-24 month barley miso. Thoms constitution is so yang that he cant eat much misowhich is also very yang. But this week he enjoyed miso soup twice, which is more than he has had for the past year. Note: Thom and his wife went to Ireland but they never started a miso plant or commercial miso production there. Address: Brookline, Massachusetts. 466. Yasuda, Masaaki; Uechi, Gensaku; Miyazato, Koshin. 1983. Tfuy seiz ni mochiiru beni kji no seiz [Studies on the manufacture of Okinawan fermented tofu (tofuyo). V. Production of red koji with Monascus sp. for production of tofuyo]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 30(2):63-67. [11 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Red koji (beni-koji), made my growing Monascus mold on steamed rice, is an important material for manufacturing tofuyo (red soybean cheese). Optimum conditions for producing red koji were investigated. Two kg of steamed rice inoculated with 120 gm of koji starter (tankoji, ground in water) was wrapped in a cloth and incubated at 32C. After 38 hours of incubation, the temperature of the materials was controlled (kept from overheating) by mixing them by hand. When the moisture level in the koji dropped to 30% or less, the koji was sprayed with water to add moisture. By these treatments, the growth of the mold and the formation of red pigment in the koji were markedly enhanced. Optimum incubation time for the koji after inoculation was 150 hours (6 days). The highest production of enzyme activities and pigment from the koji was obtained by using autoclaved non-glutinous rice; these two factors were not affected by storage conditions of -20C for 12 months. The alpha-amylase and saccharifying amylase of the koji were alcohol-tolerant, but the protease was not. Note: This is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2011) that describes how to make tofuyo or fermented tofu on a commercial scale. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, University of the Ryukyus, Okinawa. 467. Steinkraus, Keith H.; Cullen, R.E.; Pederson, C.S.; Nellis, L.F.; Gavitt, B.K. eds. 1983. Handbook of indigenous fermented foods. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker. ix + 671 p. May. Illust. Index. 26 cm. Microbiology Series, Vol. 9. [200+ ref] Summary: Contents: Foreword by E.J. Da Silva. Preface. 1. Indonesian tempeh and related fermentations: Protein-rich
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vegetarian meat substitutes. 2. Indigenous fermented foods involving an acid fermentation: Preserving and enhancing organoleptic and nutritional qualities of fresh foods. 3. Indigenous fermented foods in which ethanol is a major product: Types and nutritional signicance of primitive wines and beers and related alcoholic foods. 4. Indigenous fermented amino acid / peptide sauces and pastes with meatlike avors (p. 433-571): Introduction. (A) Soy sauces: Japanese shoyu: Koikuchi, usukuchi, and tamari; Chinese chiang-yu, by Tamotsu Yokotsuka (p. 437-51). Taiwanese soy sauce, by Liu (p. 451-56). Malaysian soy sauce: Kicap, by Ong, Mercian, Poesponegoro and Tanuwidja (p. 456-61). Indonesian soy sauce: Kecap, by Saono, Poesponegoro and Tanuwidja (p. 461-65). Korean soy sauce, by Chang (incl. homemade kanjang and meju, p. 465-66). Taiwanese black bean sauce: Inyu, by Jan et al. (p. 466-67). Philippine taosi, by Steinkraus (p. 467). (B) Fermented soybean pastes: Japanese miso, by Ebine, Shurtleff and Aoyagi (p. 468-79). Indonesian tauco, by Saono et al. and Winarno (p. 479-82). Korean Doenjang and kochujang, by Chang, Shurtleff and Aoyagi (p. 482-87). (C) Fermented sh-shrimp sauces and pastes (p. 487526). (D) Fish-soy sauce and sh-soy paste, by Ismail (p. 52630). (E) Miscellaneous Oriental fermentations. Japanese natto (itohiki natto), by Hayashi and Ota (p. 530-45). Japanese Hama-natto (hamanatto) and related products (incl. yukiwari natto, p. 545-47). Chinese red rice: Anka (Angkah [ang-kak, angkak]), by Lin, Su and Wang, Sooksan and Gongsakdi, and Pichyangkura (p. 547-53). Chinese sufu, by Su and L.-P. Lin (incl. nyufu, p. 553-61). Note: Chapter 4 contains about 195 references. 5. Mushrooms: Producing single cell (microbial) protein on ligno-cellulosic or other food and agricultural wastes. 6. General papers related to indigenous fermented foods: Contributions of the western world to knowledge of indigenous fermented foods of the orient, the importance of microbial genetics in indigenous food fermentations, new uses for traditional food fermentations, mycotoxin problems in indigenous fermented foods and new methods for mycotoxin analysis. Less widely known fermented foods include: Idli, dosa/ dosai, dhokla (with soy, 131-35), enjera (162), tef/teff (164), wot (165), hopper (173), kishra (175), lambic (179), ogi (with soy, 189-98), mahewu (203), gari (208), dahi (249-57), srikhand and lassi (256-57), laban rayeb, laban zeer, yogurt (257-59; cultured soy yogurt is mentioned on p. 616), liban, mast, mass, taw (260), tairu (with soy, 260-65), kishk or kushuk (267), Metchnikoff (266), trahanas or tarhanas (27176), rabdi, jalebi (275), koumiss (276), ker (277-80). Alcoholic beverages and foods: Honey wine, mead, metheglin (305), tej (306), sugar cane wines, basi, bubod, binubudan (307), palm wine or toddy (315-28), pulque (328-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 37), kafr (344), tesguino (352), bouza (357), pito (358), busaa (365) sake (373-79), yakju and takju (379), tape = tapeh (381-400), ragi (381), tapuy (400), lao-chao (402), madhu (406), brem (408), tropical vinegar (410-14), nata (414-20), tea fungus (421), nuoc-mam (516-21). Reviewed in Scientic American (Nov. 1983, p. 37), and in Bio/Technology (1984. p. 364). Address: Inst. of Food Science, Cornell Univ., Geneva, New York. 468. Mayer, Jean; Goldberg, Jeanne. 1983. Nutrition. Washington Post. June 1. p. E4. Summary: A reader writes to ask about the sodium content of Chinese condiments. Ans: In the April 1983 issue of the Journal of the American Dietetic Association, Theresa Chew, a registered dietitian, published statistics (including sodium content) on 14 different condiments commonly used in Chinese cooking. For some condiments, she found considerable variation among brands. Although Chinese condiments are generally considered to have a very high sodium content, several contained less than 200 milligrams of sodium per teaspoon. They are: sweet bean sauce, hoisin sauce, satay sauce, fermented bean cake [fermented tofu], fermented black beans, and dried shrimp. 469. Shurtleff, William. 1983. Fly from Guangzhou (Canton) via Changsha to Zhengzhou (June 1 to 3) (Document part). In: William Shurtleff. 1983. Log of Soyfoods Research Trip to China and Japan: 29 May to 10 July. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 117 p. See p. 6-8. Unpublished manuscript. Summary: June 1. Take a long walk around the major market in Guangzhou. I dont see much tofu. It is always in 18 inch squares, 2 inches thick. Also saw dao-gan (pressed brown tofu squares) and dao-pok (small deep-fried tofu cubes). 11:00 Fly to Zhengzhou (capital of Henan province). Turbulent airplane ride; after a very long wait in a small airport, it is decided we must stay overnight at Changsha. June 2, Thursday. Zhengzhou seminar #1 on ground oor of hotel lobby. Maotai banquet #1 in evening, with ten toasts and a 25-course meal. Question: How does the cost of aseptic Tetra Pak cartons compare with the cost of other aseptic or sterile pouches, bottles or cans? Ching-sha Fujook is Bamboo yuba in a medium-thick tan sauce at the Maotai banquet. Question: Is China now a net importer or exporter of soybeans? June 3, Friday. Zhengzhou. 6:00 a.m. walk with Eddie Siu to the big Zhengzhou market (largely indoors). See lots of soft tofu and soymilk. For each type of product you must stand in a different line, and each line is very long sometimes requiring a wait of 20-30 minutes! I thought the Communist motto was Serve the people. What a huge waste of everyones time.
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Types of tofu: Most is soft tofu (Shui-doufu, like Japanese Momen-dofu) 15 slabs on wood boards 18 x 18 x 4 to 5 inches thick. Pieces are cut with a knife, weighed in a scoop on a hand held lever arm, and put into customers bag. (b) Dofu-gan, tan squares 1.5 x 1.5 x 3/8 inches. (c) Thousand sheets are very thin (like paper). 10-inch squares called qian zhang. (d) Tofu rolls (dou-fu ? = maki) 3 inches in diameter and 8 inches long make of tofu wrapped in cloth and boiled (illustration). (e) Doufu-ru = fermented tofu in jars. (f) Doufu-fen = soy our (full fat?) used to make tofu and soymilk. (g) A semi-rm tofu. Buying: You must present a ration ticket an also pay money. 500 grams of shui-dofu costs 10 cents (i.e., 0.10). If you use up your tofu ration tickets, you may go to a separate place and use a grain ration ticket, but it costs more. Sprouts: Saw 2 baskets (wicker 18 inch diameter, 14 inch deep) sold outdoors next to 5 baskets of mung beans. Lu Dou-Ya = mung sprouts. Huang Dou-Ya = soy sprouts. Flour: Doufu-fen. Probably whole soy our? In a plastic bag containing 500 grams? Instructions read (in Chinese): 1. To make soymilk (dou-jiang): Add 13-15 jin (6.5 to 7.5 kg or liters) of water (cold or hot) to contents of bag, adding a little at rst to make a paste. Then, add the rest and mix/beat until contents of bag are smooth and bring to a boil. 2. To make doufu-fa (tofu curds): Proceed as for soymilk using any 3-4 kg of water per bag. Then, add coagulant (what coagulant? No pack of it in the bag) to 0.15 kg of water. Pour boiled milk into coagulant solution and let stand for 5-10 minutes. 3. To make doufu: Wrap tofu curds (#2) in a cloth and press for 20 minutes. (Made in Zhengzhou: Tel. 26644) This product is widely sold. 1 bag cost 0.40? Soymilk is now one of the hottest subjects in the food eld in China. Interest has grown rapidly since 1982 because (1) Vitasoys success in Hong Kong (yet Vitasoy still has no plant in China and no joint venture). (2) Japan and Southeast Asias soymilk success. (3) Alfa Laval-Kibun and DTDs competing efforts to sell soymilk plants to China. I predict that there will soon (in 3-10 years) be many modern soymilk plants in China, most run by the Ministry of Light Industry. One of the new AB-9 Tetra Pak machines sells for about $665,000 in July 1983. It has a capacity of 3,000 liter/hr of milk. Jiaozi = (Chiao-tsi) = meat dumplings. Tetra Pak is a family-run business. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991. 470. Shurtleff, William. 1983. In Harbin (June 6-7) (Document part). In: William Shurtleff. 1983. Log of Soyfoods Research Trip to China and Japan: 29 May to 10 July. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 117 p. See p. 10-12. Unpublished manuscript. Summary: 6:00 a.m. I walk to the local market. See one stall (a mobile cart) selling gelled tofu curds (doufu-fa) over
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU which is poured a sweet brown sauce then topped with some diced red chilies and green herbs. Served with deep-fried breadsticks. One other place serves soymilk hot with deepfried breadsticks. No tofu at all in the market. Some say it is sold only in winter. No other soyfoods seen. Soymilk terminology: (1) Dou Naiit sounds more modern than Dou Jiang. Implies or connotes no beany avor, is thicker and has a higher protein content. (2) Dou Ru(Alfa Laval used this) is harder to pronounce. [Henan Area grows lots of soybeans]: more than Heilongjiang? The money to build soymilk plants in China is partially foreign capital. People and institutions are falling all over each other to help China develop China Orient Leasing. 50% are Japanese. Eaton [Eton], A consortium from Cleveland, Ohio, is planning to build a $50 million oil extraction and protein rening plant in Jiamusi. Oil = extract, rene, make margarine, shortening, etc. Protein = feed, isolate, concentrate, tofu and soymilk production. Tuesday June 7, 1983 (Harbin): Min-Lite = the Ministry of Light Industry is interested in a soymilk plant. Also, the State Farm Bureau (Bean processing division) and the Soybean Institute is working in breeding (for both protein and oil), diseases, and physiology. Soymilk Taste Tests in Harbin: Chocolate was vastly the rst choice, second was sweetened, third was plain / dairylike. They dislike added oil in soymilk and would like to try fruit-avored soymilk (apple, pineapple). Added fat coats the mouth with a greasy / gummy lm. Vitasoy has no added fat. Dou Ru Fen: Niu Nai Mai Jing. 205 gm. This product consists of a white powder containing 10% cows milk powder, 40% soymilk powder (spray-dried traditional soymilk, not soy our), and 50% (!!) sugar. 1000 tonnes a year are made, starting in 1978 or 1979. Sold to housewives who use it to make breakfast soymilk. Costs RMB 0.780.80 = 70-80 cents. Cows milk powder is stirred into hot soymilk. The mixture is concentrated and spray dried. Also made in Beijing, but this one is the best quality. Pure: Soymilk powder is made in Beijing by Beijing Foodstuff Corp. since 1980. Called Doujiang-Fen (Soymilk powder) and also retailed to housewives for breakfast use. It is 50% powdered soymilk and 50% sugar. It is spray dried. Fresh green soybeans (Maodou = Hairy bean): Mostly eaten by farmers. Also sold in markets. Not packaged or canned. Whole dried soybeans: some canned in China. It is sold in Beijing. Tofu in Heilongjiang: None is sold during the summer because it spoils easily and people do not like to eat tofu in the summer. A lot is sold in winter. Soybean use: Of Chinas 9 million tonnes produced, one man estimates that 80% of soybeans are crushed. The meal is used mainly for feed, but some for tofu, soy sauce, and textured vegetable protein (TVP). Main uses for foods made with whole soybeans in
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approximate order: (1) Tofu and kan-dofu. (2) Soymilk. (3) Soy sauce. (4) Miso = Doujiang. (5) Yuba. (6) Fermented tofu. Main uses for foods made with defatted soybean meal: (1) Tofu. (2) Soy Sauce. (3) Miso. (4) Soymilk. Soy nuggets are made y in the south of China. This state farm bureau man estimates that there are 200,000 tofu shops in China, one in every village, but there are no statistics on tofu. Big tofu factory in Harbin. Ministry of Light Industry people in charge. He does not think as many soybeans will ever be used for soymilk as for tofu. Many government groups are doing research on soyfoods, such as tofu and shoyu, but no single group. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991. 471. Shurtleff, William. 1983. In Beijing. Our guide. Meet Mr. Pan. (June 9) (Document part). In: William Shurtleff. 1983. Log of Soyfoods Research Trip to China and Japan: 29 May to 10 July. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 117 p. See p. 17-18. Unpublished manuscript. Summary: Morning: Ms. Chen Xihau is our guide. She says fear is everywhere in China. Everyone is a potential spy. Fermented tofu (doufu-ru) and soy nuggets (douchi) are sold in salty vegetable (sien tsai) shops. Mr. Pan is the top man in the federal Ministry of Light Industry (MinLight). Super guy. He is director of the Food Industry Bureau. He is interested in developing a soymilk industry in China. Cows milk cannot meet the demands of a large population. A new policy in China is to increase soybean production. Recently the American Soybean Association (ASA) sponsored 6 MinLight (Ministry of Light Industry) people (both federal and Beijing municipality) on a trip to study soymilk production in Hong Kong, Japan, and Thailand. They are now considering whether or not to use the wet or dry process. He says that Vitasoy uses the dry process. The traditional Chinese method of making soymilk extracts / recovers only about 60% of the protein in the soybeans; the modern method and technology recovers 8085%. New products he would like to make from soymilk are ice cream (he saw it in Japan, tasted it and liked it), yogurt, and infant foods. He would like to use soybean protein in meat products (they are testing this now). He attended a recent meeting in Shanghai (not related to ASA) on the use of soy protein isolates. China seems unaware of the vast potential of soy our. He says that the government policy based on direct use of the soybean as food makes better use of the land than use in a feedlot or feeding soybeans to animals and then eating the animals. The policy is for plant protein to be the major source of protein and for animal protein to be secondary.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Vitasoy is Witanai (pronounced wi-TAH-nai). Hi-C is Yangwan. For soymilk, Mr. Pan prefers the term douru to dounai. Danny Wang says the World Bank is helping to nance reclamation of 2 million ha (hectares) of farmland in the three rivers area of Heilongjiang. One-third of this will be planted to soybeans. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991. 472. Shurtleff, William. 1983. In Beijing (June 10-11) (Document part). In: William Shurtleff. 1983. Log of Soyfoods Research Trip to China and Japan: 29 May to 10 July. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 117 p. See p. 20-23. Unpublished manuscript. Summary: Soy sauce, miso, and fermented tofu (doufu-ru) are all sold at one type of store, a pickle shop that sells salted foods. I visited one of these named Tien Yuan Jiang Yuen. A color photo shows various types of soy sauce sold in Beijing. In the market, the sign above the soyfoods section reads Douzhi Shipin. In this section they sell fuzhu (bamboo yuba), Doufu-fen (a type of soy our made in Beijing), cubes of fried tofu (1 inch on a side, called doubao). In 1949 the East Asiatic Co. (which is owned by rich Danes) was the leading exporter of soybeans from China. They started exporting soybeans from China in the 1920s. When exporting, they had ofces in Dalien (Dairen), Harbin, etc. The company now has about 80,000 employees worldwide. It is the biggest company in Denmark and the biggest foreign trading company in China, except for several Japanese companies such as Marubeni, Nissho Iwai, etc. June 11, Saturday. Beijing seminar #1 in downstairs room. Talk with Mr. Chen of the Food and Fermentation Research Institute. Mr. Chen says the most popular vegetable oils in China are: 1. Peanut. 2. Soy (not generally rened). 3. Rapeseed. Two organizations do research on soyfoods in Beijing: (1) His Food and Fermentation Research Institute (under MinLight, the Ministry of Light Industry); three people who work there are Mr. Chen, Mr. Dai Jiakun, and Mrs. Xu Lin. (2) Beijing Municipal Food Research Institute; contact Mr. Dai Xinjun (Dong [East] Zongbu Lane, Beijing). Four acid tests for the buyer of any soymilk process and equipment: (1) Equipment cost (xed). (2) Processing cost (including labor, energy, water, etc.). (3) Soymilk avor. (4) Protein and solids recovery (percentage). The Chinese name for thin pressed tofu sheets (1,000 sheets / 1,000 folds) is Qianzhang or Baiyeh. The best local markets (which have more variety of produce in the winter) are: Chongwen Vegetable Market and Xidan Vegetable Market (Chinese characters are given for both). The Chinese term for soyfoods is dadou shipin (soybean products). There is a new Chinese method (in Shanghai) for continuous pressed tofu sheets.
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Commercial soy products made by Mr. Chens institute: (1) Formulated soymilk for infant food. (2) Soy protein concentrate. (3) Later a modern soymilk plant will use this to make (1). Plain and sweetened soymilk in glass bottles, plus fruit (citrus = orange avor) and malt. There are some technical problems with using plastics bags as soymilk containers; they leak and are fairly expensive. Later he will work on a lactic soymilk drink. Research on soy sauce: Improved method. Low salt, done in factories in Beijing and Shanghai. Most soy oil in Beijing is not rened. People like the avor OK, but they do not know the rened avor. Rapeseed oil is used mostly in South China. In Beijing, mostly peanut and soy oil; peanut is more expensive and has a higher class image. Rapeseed is the cheapest but people dont like it. The debate over more meat vs. more protein. Recently Chinese ofcials have come to understand the problem better. Send him Diet for a Small Planet, by Lapp. In 3-4 months, Mr. Chen will send me an article about soyfoods in ChinaTell Ira Leviton. I visit a bookstore and buy a pinyin dictionary and a book (published last year in Chinese) about tofu. Visit the Forbidden City and a very famous square in central Beijing. Address: P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 415-283-2991. 473. Herrmann, Karl. 1983. Ueber Sojabohnen und Sojaprodukte [On soybeans and soybean products]. Ernaehrungs-Umschau 30(6):175-79. June. [17 ref. Ger] Summary: Contents: Introduction, nutritional composition, amino acids in soy sauce. Unfermented soy products: Soymilk, tofu (sojaquark), aburage, kori-tofu, yuba, kinako. Fermented soy products: Soy sauce, miso (sojapaste), tempeh, sufu, natto. Address: Instutut fuer Lebensmittelchemie, Hannover Univ., Wunstorfer Str. 14, D-3000 Hannover 91 [West Germany]. 474. Guo, Xiang-ao. 1983. Research on heat denaturation of soy protein after solvent extraction, and traditional Chinese soy foods. INTSOY Series No. 25. p. 64-66. B.J. Irwin, J.B. Sinclair, and Wang Jin-ling, eds. Soybean Research in China and the United States (College of Agric., Univ. of Illinois at Urbana-Champaign). Summary: Solvent extracted soybean akes and meals (moisture content 9.6%) were subjected to 80C, 90C, and 100-105C temperatures for 15 or 20 minutes. The critical temperature for protein denaturation was 80C. At higher temperatures, solvent-extracted soybean meal was denatured more rapidly than soy akes. Preparation of the following traditional Chinese soyfoods was described briey: Soy sprouts (dou ya), soybean jiang (dou jiang), soy nuggets (dou chi), soy sauce (jiang you), soy beverage (dou jiang), tofu (regular and soft, doufu), rm tofu (doufu gan), pressed tofu sheets (doufu yi), vegetarian chicken (su ji), fried tofu
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (you-doufu), fermented tofu (doufu-lu), and yuba (doufu pi). Address: Zhengzhou Grain College, China. 475. Sheraton, Mimi. 1983. Restaurants: A long line forms in Chinatown. New York Times. Aug. 19. p. C16. Summary: This is a review of the Cantonese Chinese 3-star restaurant Siu Lam Kung Restaurant (18 Elizabeth St., south of Canal Street). One exceptional soup is meat broth with straw mushrooms and a side platter of bean curds, green vegetables and pork. A tasty rst course is clams in blackbean sauce. Both lobster and cracked crab are delicious with black-bean sauce, or with ginger and scallions. Likewise pork chops with pepper and black-bean sauce. Another masterpiece is crisp cushions of bean curd stuffed with minced shrimp. Yocca, a leafy vegetable resembling spinach but with a haunting licorice avor, is generally not on menus, yet it is ordered by Chinese customers. Yocca was served in a winy sauce with garlic and fermented bean cake [fermented tofu]. Braised bean curd with black mushrooms and Chinese broccoli in oyster sauce was also avorful. 476. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. The book of tofu. 2nd ed. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Aug. 28 cm. [321 ref] Summary: Three parts of this new edition have been extensively revised and updated: (1) Tofu Makers in the West (p. 313-16) has been updated and now includes 310 tofu producers in the Western world (with the name, address, phone number, and contact person for each company), arranged by state or foreign country. This is the only tofu book containing such a directory. (2) The Bibliography (p. 319-324) has been a greatly expanded and updated. It now contains 321 publications on tofu, including all known scientic and nutritional journal articles, the 33 books about tofu written in North America since publication of the rst edition of The Book of Tofu in 1975, and other key articles and books about tofu from East Asia and Europe, the earliest from Europe dating back to 1613! (3) An updated listing of People and Institutions Connected with Tofu in the U.S. and around the world, including researchers, major tofu manufacturers in Japan, trade associations, publications, equipment dealers, and tofu apprenticeship programs. The Glossary (p. 325-27) has been condensed to make space for the expanded bibliography and back matter. There is a new page about the Soyfoods Center (p. 333). The page About the Authors (autobiographical) has been expanded, and the photograph has been updated. Sending Tofu to the Four Directions (p. 335) and the inside rear cover have both been updated. Still contains 500 vegetarian recipesboth western and eastern style.
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Note: A news release of 17 Aug. 1983 states: The Book of Tofu, which introduced the Western world to tofu and inspired the founding of more than 200 tofu shops and soy dairies in North America, has sold 340,000 copies to date, making it the worlds best-seller on this popular new protein source of the future. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 477. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. History of soyfoods in China. Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, CA 94549. 19 p. Aug. Unpublished typescript. Summary: A comprehensive history of the subject. Contents: Introduction: Soyfoods widely used in all parts of China. Overview of Chinese food and diet. Animal products and soyfoods as protein sources in China. Chinas great cuisines and soyfoods. General characteristics of Chinese soyfoods industry. Information on soyfoods. Soy trade associations. Attitudes toward technology, modernization, and traditional soyfoods. Private enterprise, bureaucracy, and competing ministries. Availability of soyfoods. Address: Lafayette, California. Phone: 415-283-2991. 478. Hesseltine, C.W. 1983. The future of fermented foods. Nutrition Reviews 41(10):293-301. Oct. [20 ref] Summary: Contents: Advantages of food fermentation, factors having an adverse effect on the use of fermented foods, nutritional and economic data on some fermented foods, future changes in fermented foods, factors that may lead to growth in the use of fermented foods (scientic interest in fermented foods, prevention of food poisoning, fermentation and increased shelf life, improvement of the physical properties of the product, interest in natural products of plant origin, modication of the substrate, interest in more healthy food, necessity of increased consumption of plant materials as population increases, cultural and religious grounds, and migration of people since World War II). Summary. Contains considerable information on fermented soyfoods. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 479. Okada, Noriyuki; Hadioetomo, Ratna Siri; Nikkuni, S.; Katoh, K.; Ohta, T. 1983. Vitamin B-12 content of fermented foods in the tropics. Shokuhin Sogo Kenkyujo Kenkyu Hokoku (Report of the National Food Research Institute) No. 43. p. 126-29. Oct. [7 ref. Eng] Summary: Vegetarian foods containing signicant amounts of vitamin B-12 per 100 gm according to a biological assay method using Lactobacillus leichmanii were: tempeh (Indonesia) 4.6 mcg (micrograms), natto fermented soybeans (actually thua-nao, Thailand) 1.5 mcg, and fermented tofu (Singapore, also called Sufu) 1.1 mcg. Flesh-based foods with a high B-12 content included Ka-pi shrimp paste (Thailand) 5.3 mcg, kung-jom fermented shrimp (Thailand) 2.5 mcg, sh sauce, 3 month fermentation (Thailand) 2.4, and sh sauce (Thailand) 1.3 mcg, and sh sauce (Japan) 1.0
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU mcg. Of these foods transported from tropical countries, tempeh was especially interesting because it is made of soybeans and had the highest B-12 content of any food measured. However not all tempeh samples contained such large amounts. For example, a fresh sample of tempeh which was transported from Indonesia as rapidly as possible contained a very low amount, 0.7 mcg/100 gm, and tempehs prepared in the laboratory by using the tempeh-making fungus, Rhizopus oligosporus, contained only 0.02 to 0.06 mcg/100 gm. However the low vitamin B-12 content in tempeh which was transported from Indonesia increased to a value of 8 mcg/100 gm when the sample was incubated at 30C, unlike in the tempeh prepared in the laboratory. It is probable that microorganisms accompanied with tempehmaking fungus were associated with the production of vitamin B-12 in Indonesian tempeh. Further studies will be required to identify the microorganisms capable of producing vitamin B-12, and useful for the fermentation food industry. Address: 1,3-5. National Food Research Inst. (Shokuhin Sogo Kenkyujo), Kannon-dai 2-1-2, Yatabe-machi, Tsukubagun, Ibaraki-ken 305, Japan; 2. Bagian Mikrobiologi, Departemen Botani, Fakultas Pertanian, Institut Pertanian Bogor, Jl. Raya Pajajaran, Bogor, Indonesia. 480. Leviton, Richard. 1983. Long summary of trip to Europe sponsored by the American Soybean Association (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Nov. 29. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: Discusses: Euvepro in Italy, ASA in Italy, Alpro / Vandemoortele, British Arkady, the confusion of mung beans and soybeans, tofu made from soy protein isolates that doesnt develop a spongy texture when frozen, regulatory restrictions, Bernard Storup, tofu burgers, Prolait, Le Bol en Bois, ASA soybean program in England, desire in Eastern Europe for more meat, the many small private businesses in Hungary, Soyanas excellent products (Daenzer makes 5,000 lb/week of tofu in Switzerland), the Reformhaus chain, Vietnamese tofu shop in Dornach, less refrigeration at the distribution and retail levels in Europe has led to new packaging, soyfoods have started to appear in the big international food trade shows in Europe (e.g. ANUGA). Witte Wonder opened in 1981, now makes 1,000 lb/week of seitan. Cauldron Foods (UK) makes mostly tofu burgers, and has a lot of good technical innovations such as control panels. Cauldron also makes a fermented tofu spread. Dragon & Phoenix (UK) makes several tons of tofu a day. In July Wolfgang Furth-Kuby and Lucas Kelterborn (Germany) published the rst issue of a European soyfoods newsletter titled Rundbrief. Paul Jones (UK) has 2 plants and makes 5,000 lb/week of tofu. One man from Cauldron Foods was Paul Jones original partner. Full of Beans also makes miso. Oct. 28. I have an all morning meeting at ASAs headquarters in Brussels, Belgium, with Dennis Blankenship,
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Rita Batens, Roger Leysen, and Michael Martin. It is proposed that I chair the 1984 First European Soyfoods Conference to be held in late September, probably in Amsterdam. ASA agrees to be a sponsor and to help secure another 6 or so sponsors. ASA also agreed to nance the production and mailing of a bi-monthly European Soyfoods Newsletter. Address: Colrain, Massachusetts. 481. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1983. Tofu & soymilk production. 2nd ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 344 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Nov. 28 cm. [223 ref] Summary: Some information in Chapter 1, Appendix A, and many advertisements have been changed. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 482. Wang, Xuqing; Shen, Zhiping. 1983. [Isolation and determination of vitamin B-12 in fermented soybean foods]. Ying Yang Hsueh Pao (Acta Nutrimenta Sinica) 5(4):365-71. Nov. [13 ref. Chi; eng] Address: Dep. of Nutrition and Food Hygiene, Inst. of Health, Chinese Academy of Medical Sciences, Beijing, China. 483. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1983. Tfuy to beni kji [Okinawan fermented tofu (tofuyo) and red koji]. Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi (J. of the Brewing Society of Japan) 78(11):839-42. Nov.; 78(12):912-15. Dec. [72 ref. Jap; eng+] Summary: How to eat tofuyo (p. 839): In the Gyozen Honzo (Food Herbal) (1832, a book about food and medicine) the physician TOKASHIKI Tskan Peichin wrote: Tofuyo has a delicious avor and is good for the stomach. It makes eating a pleasure and is good for various types of sickness (Ref. #9; Note: This book contains the earliest direct reference seen to tofuyo. Peichin refers to a highranking ofcer). It seems that tofuyo was consumed by the upper classes during the Ryukyu Ocho period in Okinawa and it was also used as a food for recovering after a sickness, and as a side dish. According to old people in Okinawa, Tofuyo was popular among upper class people in Shuri or Naha, during the Taisho period (1912-1926) and at the beginning of the Showa period (1926+). It was eaten with tea by ladies or with millet brandy (awamori) by men. But it was too for the regular people to afford. The best way to eat tofuyo is to place one cube of it (2-3 cm on a side) on a small dish and eat it with chopsticks or a toothpick a little bit at a time. Note on the geography and history of the Ryukyu Islands (also called Luchu or Loochoo Islands): This chain of islands extends in a 600-mile long arc southward from the southern tip of Kyushu (Japans southernmost main island) down to Taiwan. It includes Okinawa, Sakishima, and the Amami island groups. The population in 1970 was 945,000. The chief town is Naha on Okinawa. History: In 1372
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU these islands came under the political inuence of China. In 1451 they became a tributary to Japan as well as China, and 1609 a Japanese protectorate (part of Satsuma-Han). Thus the islands have long had cultural ties with both Japan and China. During Japans Edo period (1600 to 1868) the kingdom of Ryukyu formally belonged to China, but in fact it was more closely tied with the Satsuma Han, a powerful domain in southern Kyushu. Like China and Japan, Ryukyu had its own emperors and dynasties. The imperial palace was on the island of Okinawa, in the southern city of Shuri. Imperial messengers (sakuho-shi) were frequently sent to Okinawa from China and there were cultural exchanges between the two countries. In 1871 the Meiji government in Japan made Ryukyu part of Kagoshima prefecture. In 1872 they made it Ryukyu-Han. After this change, Shtai (lived 1845-1901) became king of the Ryukyu-Han. In 1879 Ryukyu became an integral part of Japan. Under the Japanese, the Amami group belonged to Kagoshima prefecture and the Okinawa and Sakishima groups constituted Okinawa prefecture. In 1945, after World War II, it was placed under a U.S. military government. In 1966 it received local self-government, and in 1972 was returned to Japan. History of tofuyo in Okinawa (p. 839-40). The earliest document seen concerning soybeans in Okinawa appeared in 1534 in the Record of the Messengers to Ryukyu (Shi Ryukyu Roku; Ref. #16). Thereafter soybeans became a widely grown crop (Ref. #17). The History of Ryukyu by Ryukyu Opu (1713, Ref. #19) noted that it was not clear at the time when and how tofu came to the country. Although this uncertainty still remains, tofu is thought to have arrived in Ryukyu in the mid-1600s. According to the Various Records of the Messengers to Ryukyu written by Osho? (Wang-shu?, Ref. #18) in 1683, tofu was widely available at that time in Okinawan market places. being produced by many companies. It was an important food not only for the local people, but also for the Chinese imperial messengers (Refs. #20-22). Okinawas tofu was a rm tofu, made in the Chinese way by pressing the soymilk out of the okara before cooking it. This method was also traditionally used in Korea and southern Japan (in KumamotoItsugi-mura, Yamaguchi, Ishikawa, and Koichi prefectures). The method was probably introduced to Okinawa by Chinese imperial messengers or by exchange students, although it could have been brought from Japan by Buddhist monks, who served it in their temple cuisine. Note: For much more detail about the history of tofuru in the Ryukyu islands, please see History of Fermented Tofu on the Soyinfo Center website. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, University of the Ryukyus. 484. Chinese menus: Great meals in minutes. 1983. Alexandria, Virginia: Time-Life Books. 104 p. Illust. (some color). Index. 29 cm.
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Summary: These recipes were contributed by nine chefs; a brief biography and photo is given for each. Barbara Tropp and Nina Simonds are among them (p. 4). Contains detailed instructions on the preparation of Chinese food, recipes, and sample menus. The section titled Pantry (for this volume) includes: On the shelfBlack beans, canned or packaged. Chinese fermented black beans, also known as Chinese salted black beans. Hoisin sauce (sweet, soybean based). Oils: Oriental sesame oil, a highly aromatic oil, is for garnishing, not cooking. Always buy Chinese or Japanese brands. Sesame paste. Soy sauce: Extracted from fermented soybeans, comes in light and dark. In the refrigeratorBean curd or tofu. Soy related recipes: Bean curd salad with peanuts (p. 65). Steamed sea bass with black bean sauce (which includes 1 tablespoon Chinese fermented black beans, p. 65). Mushroom soy sauce is good to have on hand (p. 71). Crisp chicken strips with black-bean orange sauce (the sauce ingredients include 2 tablespoons Chinese salted black beans, p. 81). Diced chicken with fermented black beans (p. 87). Stirfried spinach with fermented bean curd (with 1 small square fermented bean curd, mashed, p. 90). 485. Dahlen, Martha; Phillipps, Karen. 1983. A popular guide to Chinese vegetables. New York, NY: Crown Publishers, Inc. x + 113 p. Illust. Index. 29 cm. [2 ref] Summary: This book was written for non-Chinese in the maze of Hong Kongs street markets; it originally appeared in 1980 and 1981 as two volumes, published in Hong Kong. The Romanization of names in this book represent the Cantonese pronunciation system of Herklots. The section on Seasoning sundries has entries (p. 3-4) for: Light soy sauce (2 Cc = Chinese characters are given) See yau [Note: See = soy nuggets] or Sang chau. This is the best grade of sauce. Light means it is not thick or viscous and has a delicate or ne avor. Dark soy sauce (2 Cc) Lo chau. Dark here means thick and of stronger avor. There are various types, each of which has been fermented with different special ingredients such as mushrooms, ginger, etc. Yet they all stain food black. Fermented black beans (2 Cc). Dau see [soy nuggets]. These are whole soybeans which have been cooked, salted and fermented. These beans are one of the most versatile, convenient, economical and avourful Oriental seasonings. The Cantonese usually mash them with garlic and stir-fry or braise them with pork, beef, shellsh, sh or vegetables, particularly with green and red vegetables for colour. General directions for making black bean sauce are as follows: Use approximately twice as much, by volume, of black beans as garlic. Crush the garlic cloves by smashing them with a single blow of a heavy object (at side of a cleaver) on a cutting board. Remove the papery husk, then put both beans and garlic in a small bowl and mash together,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU either with a spoon or the butt of the cleavers handle. Approximately 1 tablespoon of mash will season 1-2 cups of food. To cook, add the mash to the hot oil before the ingredients. In a mixture, add the mash just before the last batch of ingredients to be fried, return all the rest to the wok, season with a pinch of sugar and light soy sauce,... Vary the sauce from heavy to light. The section on Soybean sprouts (Daai dau nga choi, 4 Cc = large bean sprout vegetable) has an unusual structure. First comes information on soybean sprouts: Appearance, quality, general comments, preparation, cooking. Then a nice color illustration, followed by two recipes using these sprouts. Then come subsections on Bean curd (Dau fu, 2 Cc). Water bean curd (Seui dau fu, 3 Cc. This is the most common, and perhaps most versatile, kind of bean curd. Three recipes). Wrapped bean curd (Bo baau dau fu, 4 Cc. This type is sold from tubs of water rather than from a wooden board. Each square has been wrapped in cloth, so pieces have rounded edges and cost 2-3 times more than common fresh dau foo. This is the nest, most delicate curd, and is usually used only for steaming as in Lo Siu Ping On, a traditional Cantonese dish). Dry or pressed bean curd (Dau fu gonn, 3 Cc [pressed tofu]. This type is rm and therefore easily sliced or cut into shreds and stir-fried. Two types exist as illustrated; the larger, 3-inch square white one is plain; the smaller, 2-inch square reddish one is lightly coated with 5-spice powder {ng heung fun, 3 Cc}. One recipe is given). Deep-fried bean curd (Dau fu pok, 3 Cc. These are small cubes or squares about 1 inch on a side. Color illustration. One recipe is given). Page 81. Recipe for Mushrooms & ribs with black bean sauce. In the section on Lotus root is a recipe (p. 87) for Braised pork and lotus which calls for Fermented red bean curd (Naam yue, 2 Chinese characters are given). Because the naam yue tends to preserve the other ingredients, this dish will keep for at least a week in the fridge, and will improve in avour as it keeps. Note: A combination of equal parts dark and light soy sauce may be substituted for the naam yue, but the taste and texture will be completely different. On page 106 is a short section on Kudzu (Fun got, 2 Cc, with no specic recipes but with suggestions for cooking). 486. Editors of China Pictorial, Beijing. 1983. Chinese cuisine from the master chefs of China. Boston, Massachusetts, and Toronto, Ontario, Canada: Little, Brown and Co. 240 p. Illust. Index. 26 x 24 cm. Summary: An overview with many color illustrations. The section titled The ingredients contains color photos of them plus a glossary that includes Chinese names: Dried bean curd stick, dried bean curd sheets, bean curd fresh
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gluten, fried gluten (p. 42-43). Soybean paste (salted and fermented), fermented bean curd, soy sauce (p. 47). Qingdou (green soybean), huangdouya (soybean sprouts) (p. 51). Doufu (bean curd, tofu), fuzhu (dried soybean milk [dried yuba sticks]), mianjin (gluten), youpi (dried soybean curd sheets [pressed tofu sheets]), kaofu (wheat gluten / vegetable steak) (p. 52). Jiangyou (soy sauce) (p. 54). Huang jiang (soybean paste, salted and fermented), jiangdoufu (fermented bean curd). White soup (bai tang, with soybean sprouts, p. 56). Folk nutrition: All illnesses originate from what is taken into the mouth. On this page is a description of the therapeutic properties of: Soybeans: their avor is sweet, raw; their character is warm, and when fried [or cooked] it becomes hot... A long section on soybeans (p. 74) begins: They are the pivot-point of Chinese avor and nutrition. Includes brief descriptions on how to make soybean milk, bean curd, deepfried bean curds, bean curd puffs, and yuba. Soy-related recipes: Slab bacon with fermented bean curd (Nanru kouru, with 3 cubes fermented bean curd, p. 113). Sweet bean paste sauce (tiendoujiang, for Peking duck; it is made from fermented black soybeans, p. 140). Braised sharks n in white sauce (baipa yuchi, with white soup and soy sauce, p. 199). Mrs. Pockmarks bean curd (mapo doufu, p. 207). Silkworm cocoon bean curd (canjian doufu, p. 208). There is a section of seven vegetarian recipes (p. 199205). 487. Herrmann, Karl. 1983. Exotische Lebensmittel. Inhaltsstoffe und Verwendung [Exotic foods. Ingredients and uses]. Berlin, Heidelberg, & New York: Springer-Verlag. x + 175 p. Illust. 21 cm. See p. 111-19. Sojabohnenprodukte. [18 ref. Ger] Summary: The chapter on legumes contains brief introductions to soybeans, green vegetable soybeans (unreife Sojabohnen), soy sprouts (Sojabohnensprossen, Sojabohnenkeimlinge), soymilk (Sojamilch), tofu (Tofu, Sojaquark), soy sauce (Sojasosse, Shoyu), miso (Miso, Sojapaste), tempeh (Tempeh), fermented tofu (Sufu, chinesischer Sojabohnen-Kse), and natto (Natto, fermentierte ganze Sojabohnen). Tables shows the nutritional composition of tofu, deep-fried tofu pouches (Aburage), dried-frozen tofu (Kori-Tofu), yuba (Yuba), roasted soy our (Kinako), and miso, plus defatted soybean meal (entfettetes Sojabohnenmehl; 51% protein), and soybean concentrate (Sojabohnen Konzentrat; 64.9% protein). Address: West Germany. 488. Jaffrey, Madhur. 1983. Eastern vegetarian cookery. London: Jonathan Cape. xii + 531 p. Illust. by Susan Gaber. Index. 24 cm. Summary: This is an expanded version of Madhur Jaffreys World-of-the-East vegetarian cookery (1981, New York).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU The author of this creative book, a woman, was born in British India on 13 Aug. 1933. She rst became known as an actress in India, but later found fame as a food writer. She has lived in America for more than 20 years. She presents 21 recipes for bean curd (tofu), 7 for tempeh, and some for yuba and miso. Soy-related recipes include: Aubergine slices with white miso (Japan, p. 4-5). Green beans with soy sauce (Japan, p. 20), Cabbage with miso (Japan, p. 29). Lotus root with soy-sauce dressing (Korea / Japan / Hong Kong, p. 46-47). Yellow pumpkin cooked with soy sauce (Japan, p. 74-75). Fresh soy beans, steamed (China, p. 76, with fresh green soy beans in their pods). Yien Koos Spinach with fermented bean curd (China, p. 78-79). Pecel (Vegetable salad with spicy peanut sauce, plus tofu and tempeh; Indonesia, p. 87). Tempura (with tofu; Japan, p. 89-92). Soy bean sprouts (how to grow, p. 119). Soy-bean and mungbean sprouts seasoned with sesame oil (Korea, p. 123-24). Tempeh, Fried tempeh, Fried, pre-seasoned tempeh, Sambal goreng tempeh kering (Sweet and sour tempeh), Tempeh cooked in coconut milk (Indonesia, p. 127-30). Thai fried rice (with red fermented tofu, p. 176). Chapter 4 (p. 187-221), titled Soy milk, bean curd, and wheat gluten, contains the following: Introduction to each ingredient. Soy milk (making your own at home). Making your own bean curd. Udofu (Yudofu, simmering bean curd with seasonings, Japan). Bean curd with watercress (Singapore Chinese). Bean curd with fresh coriander (Taiwan). Korean-style bean curd in a hot water bath. Hiyayakko (Chilled bean curd, Japan). Bean curd with broccoli (Hong Kong). Cabbage cooked with bean curd (Japan). Bean curd with a deliciously spicy sauce (China). Carrots and beans with a bean-curd dressing (Japan). Bean curd, mushrooms, and peanuts in hoisin sauce (Chinese style). Sauted bean curd (Korea). Tofu dengaku (Toasted bean curd with a miso topping, Japan). Fried bean-curd cubes (Most of East Asia). Soy-bean sprouts sauted with fried bean curd (China). Fried bean curd with a sweet-and-sour sauce (China). Fried bean curd cakes with a mustard surprise (Japan). Inari-zushi (Bags of fried bean curd stuffed with sushi rice, Japan). Pressed bean curd with cabbage (China). Salad of pressed bean curd, mung-bean sprouts, and agaragar (China). How to make fried and baked wheat-gluten balls. Stew of baked wheat gluten, potato, turnip, carrot, and cabbage rolls (Japan, p. 215). Fried wheat gluten with broccoli, carrot, and mushrooms (China). Fried wheat gluten and potato stew (Indian style). Shredded wheat gluten and Cabbage with fennel seeds (Indian style). Buddhas delight (A mixed Chinese stew, Hong Kong; with yuba, fried tofu, and fried wheat gluten balls). Chawanmushi (Steamed savory custards, with tofu; Japan, p. 223-26). Omelette with bean curd (Japan, p. 23031). Soy-sauce eggs (Thailand / China, p. 245). Paneer (Fresh cheese from cows milk; India, p. 277-78). Hot or cold noodles with a soy-sauce dressing (China, p. 288).
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Noodles with a hot-and-sour bean sauce (China, p. 290). Vegetarian mee krob (Crisp noodles with pressed bean curd and eggs; Thailand, p. 296-97). Noodles with quail eggs, mushrooms, spinach, and yuba (Japan; p. 298-99). Hoppers (yeast pancakes; Sri Lanka, p. 315). Roti (Flat whole-wheat bread; India, p. 320). Delicious stock made with soy-bean sprouts (p. 340). Clear soup with mushrooms, bean curd skins [yuba], and spinach (Japan, p. 346). Clear soup with soft bean curd and Chinese leaves (p. 346). Miso soup with bean curd (Japan, p. 357). Miso soup with carrots and mushrooms (Japan, p. 358). Fried, munchable soy beans [soynuts] (China, p. 373). Potato and tempeh patties (Indonesia, p. 394). Dipping sauces (with soy sauce, p. 41417, incl. kochu changKorean soy sauce). Kombu relish (with soy sauce; Japan, p. 435). Shoyu daikon (White radish pickled in soy sauce; Japan, p. 436). Ginger quick-pickled soy sauce (China, p. 436). Aomidaikon (Quick pickled small white radishes, with slightly sweet yellow miso; Japan, p. 438-39). Chinese-style jellied bean-curd sweetmeat with a peanut topping (Singapore, p. 462-63). General information [like a glossary] (p. 481-506): See: Bean curd (regular, fried, fermented {fu-ju, nam-ye, tao-hooyee, red bean curd}, pressed {doufu kan}, pressed seasoned {pai doufu kan}, dried bean-curd skin or yuba). Beans (azuki, soy). Bean sauce (made from fermented soy beans). Chilli paste with soy bean (and garlic). Hoisin sauce. Miso. Nam yee (see Bean curd, fermented). Nigari. Soy beans, fresh. Soy-bean sprouts. Soy milk. Soy sauce (incl. Japanese, Chinese dark and light, Japanese usukuchi, Indonesian ketjap manis). Tao Hoo Yee (see Bean curd, fermented). Tempeh. Yuba. Sources (of ingredients; p. 507-10). Address: New York City, NY. 489. Roh, Fred. 1983. The complete book of natural foods. Boulder, Colorado: Shambhala. xvi + 491 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. [120 ref] Summary: This book is about The New American Diet, which is an omnivarian diet including some sh and meat. Chapter 14, titled New and future natural foods, contains a section titled Soy foods (p. 162-65) including tofu, tempeh, miso, soy sauce, soy milk, and other soy products (yuba and sufu). The work of William Shurtleff and Aoyagi, and their Soyfoods Center, is mentioned 2-3 times. Toward the back of the book are many soyfoods recipes. The Prologue tells Rohes life story and pioneering work with natural foods. In 1964, at the ripe old age of 27, he didnt feel good, didnt look good, and didnt like itthe result of years of smoking, drinking, eating bad food and burning the candle at both ends. It was time to do something about it. Adelle Davis became my guru and Thom Hamiltonthe health foods store owner who sold me [her book] Lets Eat Right to Keep Fit became my mentor. Within a few months he was feeling much better. So in 1965 I bought a small health food store in the Sunset district
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU of San Francisco. It was named Sunset Health Foods. He discarded most of the dietetic foods on the shelves and replaced them with old-fashioned groceriesbasic stuff, traditional, simple, whole food... What was evolving was a modern version of an old-fashioned grocery store. He would provide information instead of hype, bulk retail foods sold out of barrels, crocks, jars, and drawers instead of packaged products, food instead of food supplements. He renamed the store New Age Natural Foods. My career ended in 1973, after eight years. New Age Natural Foods had served as a model for what were called in those days hippie food stores. It is credited as being the prototype natural foods store, as distinct from a health food store. Since 1973 Fred continued to work in the natural foods industry. In 1979, in his capacity as a consultant, he met the people of Sunburst Farms, who are his collaborators on this book. Sunburst is the realization of a vision experienced in 1951 by its founder Norm Paulsen, while he was living as a student monk studying yoga at the Self-Realization Fellowship in Los Angeles. He moved to the Santa Barbara area, and while operating a construction business in 1968 established Sunburst Farms as a group of people living communally under spiritual principles on 160 acres of land in the mountains above Santa Barbara. The community-owned business, Sunburst Natural Foods, grew foods organically and ourished. In 1970 they opened a natural foods retail store in Santa Barbara. The community grew to include a second ranch and a total membership of over 200 people. The business came to include manufacturing and wholesaling as well as retailing. There are now ve Sunburst Farmers Markets, two of themin Goleta and Venturalarge, complete, natural foods supermarkets. Sunburst also owns and operates a natural foods restaurant, The Farmer and the Fisherman, 35 miles north of Santa Barbara along the coastal highway. Then Norm envisioned a new direction and everything changed. They traded their 6,000 acre coastal ranch for land in northeastern Nevada totaling over 500,000 acres. It could hardly have been a more radical change. But the soil is rich in minerals and there is abundant water from artesian wells. They are responding strongly to the challenge of, as they say, making the desert bloom as a rose. Appendix eight: Recommended reading list (p. 47078) includes a section titled Soyfoods. This book was Re-published in 1986 as Natures Kitchen by Garden Way in Brattleboro, Vermont. Interview with Fred Rohe. 1988. Nov. 3. Fred bought Sunset Health Foods in 1965 and transformed it into New Age Natural Foods at 1326 Ninth Ave. in San Francisco. Address: 4014 Lincoln Way, San Francisco, California 94122. Phone: 415-564-7024. 490. Wang, H.L. 1983. Oriental soybean foods. In: Ivan A. Wolff, ed. 1983. CRC Handbook of Processing and
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Utilization in Agriculture. Vol. II: Part 2. Plant Products. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press, Inc. See p. 91-106. Illust. Index. 26 cm. CRC Series in Agriculture. [10 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Traditional nonfermented soybean foods. Fermented soybean foods. Tables: (1) Oriental nonfermented soybean foods: Fresh green soybeans, soybean sprouts, soybean milk, protein-lipid lm [yuba], soybean curd [tofu], soybean our (local names: Tou-fen, kinako). (2A) Composition of some indigenous soybean foods, 100 g, edible portion. (2B) Composition of some indigenous soybean foods, 100 g, edible portion. (3) Essential amino acid content of some indigenous soybean foods. (4) Oriental fermented soybean foods. (5) Characteristics of rice miso in relation to fermentation condition. (6) Average composition of soy sauce made from whole soybeans and defatted soybean meal. (7) Composition of various types of miso. Figures: (1) Flow sheet for the preparation of soybean milk and its related products. (2) Flow sheet for manufacture of soy sauce. (3) Flow sheet for manufacture of miso. (4) Flow sheet for making hamanatto. (5) Flow sheet for preparation of sufu. (6) Flow sheet for tempeh fermentation. (7) Flow sheet for preparation of natto. Note: Vol. 1 is Animal products. Vol. 2 is Plant products, Part A. Vol. 3 is Plant products, Part B. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 491. Product Name: [Tofu, Tofu Pickled in Miso, Tofu Pt, Terrine with Tofu]. Foreign Name: Tofu, Tofu Marin, Pt de Tofu, Terrine de Tofu. Manufacturers Name: Tofu Kuehn. Manufacturers Address: La Tuiliere, 26560 Montfroc, France. Phone: 92 62 02 76. Date of Introduction: 1983? Ingredients: Tofu: Whole French-grown soybeans, spring water, nigari. Pickled: Tofu, miso, onion, ginger, orange. Pt: Tofu, whole wheat bread, mushrooms, onions, spices. Terrine: Tofu, vegetables, onions, spices, leeks, carrots, wheat akes, tahini, mushrooms. How Stored: Refrigerated. New ProductDocumentation: Form lled out by Anthony Marrese. 1989. Nov. The company is run by Yves Kuehn and John Marc. These products were introduced in the early 1980s. Production and weights are presently as follows: Tofu (250 gm) 30-50 kg/week. Tofu Pickled in Miso 20 kg/ week. Tofu Pt (150 gm) 10 kg/week. Terrine (150 gm). Anthony writes: I met this group at an organic fair. It is a small group of 5 or so people making tofu really as a meditation. They produce it in small quantities of 5-10 kg through a mechanical hand grinder, then the pat and pickled tofu are made in a small kitchen. Leaet. 1989. In French. Shows labels of the products and briey outlines Mr. Kuehns philosophy that we must
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU move from an animal-based to a plant-based diet. Note: Emprsurage is the action of adding a curding agent or coagulant to milk in the process of making cheese. The prsure is the coagulant. 492. Yasuda, Masaaki; Hokama, Ikuo. 1984. Tofuyo seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. VI. Tfuy seiz ni mochiiru genry tfu no seiz [Studies on the manufacture of Okinawan fermented tofu (tofuyo). VI. Production of tofu for use in making tofuyo]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 31(1):19-23. [7 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Tofuyo is a traditional food in Okinawa, and is made from soybean curd with koji, salt, and awamori (distilled liquor). It was found that the texture of the tofu affects the quality of the tofuyo. The texture is, in turn, affected by the type of coagulant and its concentration, and the pressure under which the curds were pressed to make tofu. The best conditions were as follows: Final concentration of the calcium sulfate coagulant: 20 mM. Final pressure on the curds: 38 gm per square centimeter. Hardness of the curd: 110,000 to 110,000 dynes per square centimeter. Final moisture of the curd: about 76%. The best quality of Tofuyo was obtained when tofu of hardness 200,000 to 300,000 dynes per square centimeter was gradually dehydrated at room temperature (25C). Hardness of the nished tofuyo: 14-18 dynes per square centimeter. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, University of the Ryukyus. 493. Fuke, Yoko; Matsuoka, Hiroatsu. 1984. Preparation of fermented soybean curd using stem bromelain. J. of Food Science 49(1):312-13. Jan/Feb. [8 ref] Summary: Investigates production of a cheese-like food from soymilk by treatment with a plant protease enzyme. Bromelain is a proteinase / protease obtained from the juice of the pineapple. Stem bromelain was used successfully as a coagulant for soymilk, but the resulting product had a slight bitterness. Address: Dep. of Food and Nutrition, Lab. of Food Chemistry, Tachikawa College of Tokyo, Akishima, Tokyo 196, Japan. 494. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1984. Brief history of Yeo Hiap Seng Ltd. and the companys work with soymilk worldwide (Document part). In: Shurtleff and Aoyagi. 1984. Soymilk Industry and Market: Worldwide and Country by Country Analysis. Vol. 1. 177 p. See p. 100-02. Summary: Soymilk entered the modern age in Singapore in 1954, when Yeo Hiap Seng introduced the rst commercial bottled soymilk. The company traces its origins to the year 1900 when the patriarch of the Yeo family, Mr. Yang (in the Amoy dialect, his name was pronounced Yeo Keng Lian) purchased a small company named Hiap Seng in the city of Chang-chou (Zhang Zhou), Fukien (Fujian)
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province, China. Hiap Seng means unite to succeed. Yeo Keng Lian changed the companys name to reect his familys ownership. He worked as a manufacturer and retailer of fermented soybean seasonings: soy sauce (jiangyou), Chinese-style miso (dou-jiang), and fermented tofu (furu). All three products were sold from day one under the Light House brand. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the word furu to refer to fermented tofu. By working together, the family did succeed. Their soy sauce, fermented in the traditional Chinese way in wooden vats and earthenware jars, was of superior quality and the business prospered. The original plant was located near the center of Chang-chou. In about 1920 a second plant was established in the eastern part of the city, and in the late 1920s a third plant was set up in the southern part of the city. Each of the three fermented soy products were produced in all three plants; the second and third plants also produced some pickled vegetables. In 1935, during the Japanese invasion of China, when life was difcult and unsettled in Fukien province, Yeo Keng Lian sent his eldest son, Yeo Thian In, to Singapore to investigate possibilities there. The son founded the Yeo Hiap Seng Sauce Factory at 410 Outram Road, Singapore 3. He was joined shortly by the rest of the family. The company continued to make the same three fermented soy products that it had made since 1900 in China. In 1947 the growing business was moved into larger quarters at 950 Dunearn Road, its present location. The move out of China was a wise one, for in 1949 the three Yeo Hiap Seng plants in Fukien were taken over by the Chinese Communists. By the mid-1940s, Yeos quality soy sauce was a common sight in Singapore. In 1950 YHS decided to diversify into canned products, such as chicken curry, sh, and meat. Then in 1954 they launched their rst soymilk. Called Beanvit, it was subsequently renamed Yeos Soybean Drink. A rather sweet soymilk sold like a soft drink in sterilized bottles, it was marketed in both Singapore and Malaysia, where it was the rst product of its type. (Vitasoy was rst sold like a soft drink in sterilized bottles in Hong Kong in 1953.) In 1955 the company changed its structure to that of a Limited (Ltd.) company. In 1958-59 YHS expanded its soft drink line by bottling favorite traditional Chinese beverages, such as chrysanthemum teas and herb teas. In 1962 YHS began its rst export sales to Hong Kong. In 1967 YHS soymilk and teas were rst sold in UHT (Ultra High Temperature) aseptic Tetra Pak cartons (tetrahedral/pyramid shaped; 285 ml). YHS was the worlds rst company to package soymilk in aseptic Tetra Pak cartons, and the rst to use Tetra Pak for any beverage in Singapore. (Vitasoy in Hong Kong did not start using Tetra Pak until 1976). Shortly after introducing sweetened soymilk in the tetrahedral pack,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU YHS launched enriched Vitabean in the same carton. It was fortied with half of the adult Minimum Daily Requirement of most essential vitamins. Sterilization in bottles would have destroyed most of the added vitamins, but the UHT process did not. In 1974 packaging was changed to Tetra Brik (250 ml), but bottling continued. During the late 1970s YHS changed its soymilk brand name to Yeos. By 1976 Yeo Hiap Sengs soymilk production had climbed to 50 million bottles and cartons a year, and by 1980 to 75 million (250,000 a day), prompting the company to build a new plant to double its capacity. In 1983 YHS had the biggest share of the Singapore soymilk market (Alan Yeo, personal communication, 1982, 1983). Yeo Hiap Seng pioneered soymilk throughout Southeast Asia. In 1959 they opened their rst soymilk plant at Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia. By 1984 they had four soymilk plants there at Kuala Lumpur, Jahore Baru, Prai, and Kuching. Malaysia, with its 14 million people, was a bigger market than Singapore, with its 2.4 million people. By 1984 YHS had the lions share of the Malaysian soymilk market. During the 1970s, YHS started exporting soymilk to Hong Kong (where they got a small share of the market). In 1979 they began exporting canned soymilk to the USA, where they had ofces and a warehouse in San Jose, California. In early 1983 they introduced a low-sugar soymilk to the US. Sales, however, were slow. YHS was not interested in the China market, since they thought that it would be too difcult to get prots out in hard currency. They were franchising their soymilk process and technology in Indonesia, where the product is being marketed under the YHS name. They plan to share in the promotion, too. Starting in 1974 Yeo Hiap Seng began a new phase of its expansion and diversication by acquiring the Singapore franchises for Pepsi-Cola and Mirinda. These were followed by franchises for Schweppes in 1985 and 7-Up in 1986. In 1985 the company acquired distribution rights for Budweiser beer and in 1987 they branched out into prawn farming. The 1981 Annual Report of Yeo Hiap Seng Ltd. shows that this publicly held company was run by Yeo Thian In (Chairman) and Alan Yeo Chee Yeow (Managing Director). From 1977 to 1981, sales of all products grew from $39.5 to $95.8 million and pre-tax prots from $7.1 to $11.5 million. Their Soft Drinks Division, one of the largest in Singapore, Malaysia, and Hong Kong, provided the main thrust of company growth. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 495. Hansen, Barbara. 1984. Lets eat out: Looks can be deceiving. Los Angeles Times. March 8. p. P33. Summary: The Seafood King is off to one side of Chinatown, and so unpromising on the outside and threadbare-basic within that one would tend to pass it by. That would be a mistake. It has enough ne dishes to attract a steady stream of Chinese.
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When a Chinese friend took me there we had wonderful things like swamp cabbage with fermented bean curd, which sounds terrible but was not;... Address: Times staff writer. 496. Chen, W.L. 1984. Soybean processing for food use in Taiwan. Tropical Agriculture Research Series No. 17. p. 143-52. March. International Symposium on Soybean in the Tropics and Subtropics. [18 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Soy milk. Instant soy milk powder. Tofu. Soybean pudding. Hard beancurd. Hard beancurd thread. Spiced and dried hard beancurd. Soy protein-lipid lm and its products. Sufu (Chinese cheese). Chou tofu [chou toufu] (fetid tofu, fermented). Dehulled soybean powder (enzyme active, full fat; used to prepare soy milk or soy pudding in factories, schools, and homes). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term fetid tofu to refer to stinky tofu. In 1982 Taiwan imported 1,150,433 tons of soybeans from the USA, and grew 11,942 tons of soybeans in Taiwan. 80% of the soybeans are crushed to make soybean oil and meal, and the remaining 20% are made into versatile soybean foods. In 1983 two new brands of instant soy milk powder appeared on the market in Taiwan. More than 1,400 small tofu plants are located throughout Taiwan. They make and sell their products on the same day. Only two large, modern plants produce packaged and refrigerated tofu. A continuous lm-forming method for making yuba was developed by FIRDI in 1977. Address: Food Technologist, Food Industry Research and Development Inst. (FIRDI), P.O. Box 246, Hsinchu, Taiwan 300. 497. Wang, Hwa L. 1984. Tofu and tempeh as potential protein sources in the Western diet. J. of the American Oil Chemists Society 61(3):528-34. March. [22 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract (uses the word soybean foods several times). Introduction. Traditional soybean foods. Trends in market growth for tofu and tempeh (based on statistics gathered by Shurtleff & Aoyagi of The Soyfoods Center in California, 1983). Tofu. Tempeh. Traditional soybean foods can be classied as either nonfermented or fermented. Tables show: (1) Oriental nonfermented soybean foods (gives food name, local names, description, uses): Fresh green soybeans (local names: maotou, edamame). Soybean sprouts (huang-tou-ya, daizu no moyashi). Soybean milk (tou-chiang). Protein-lipid lm (toufu-pi, yuba). Soybean curd (tofu, tou-fu, tubu, tahoo, touhu, tau-foo, dou-fu, dau-fu). Soybean our (tou-fen, kinako) (Wang 1983). (2) Oriental fermented soybean foods (gives food name, local names, microorganisms used, substrate, nature of product): Soy sauce (local names: chiang-yu, shoyu, toyo,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU kanjang, ketjap, see-iu). Miso (chiang, doenjang, soybean paste). Hamanatto (tou-shih, tao-si, tao-tjo [sic]). Sufu (fu-ru, fu-ju, tou-fu-ju, bean cake, Chinese cheese). Tempeh (tempe kedelee). Natto. (3) Tofu industry in the United States (No. of manufacturers and annual production in 1975, 1979, 1981, 1982, and 1983). (4) Soybean solids and proteins in soybean soak water as affected by soaking conditions (temperature vs. time; Lowry protein / Lowrys protein). (5) Ratio of protein to oil content of tofu and soy milk as affected by protein content of soybeans (for different soybean varieties; the highest ratios come from the varieties Wase-Kogane, Vinton, Toyosuzu, and Coles). Figures: (1) Flow diagram for the preparation of tofu. (2) Graph: In vitro digestibility of soybean milk as affected by the duration of boiling. Best digestibility is 12-14 minutes. (3) Four graphs: Relationship of concentration and type of coagulant to the yield of tofu. Coagulants are calcium sulfate, calcium chloride, magnesium sulfate, and magnesium chloride. The 4 graphs are: Gross weight of tofu. Moisture content. Total solids recovery. Nitrogen recovery. Calcium sulfate gives the highest values on all four graphs. (4) Four graphs: Relationship of concentration and type of coagulant to the texture characteristics of tofu. Same coagulants. The four graphs are: Hardness. Brittleness. Cohesiveness. Elasticity. (5) Flow diagram for tempeh fermentation. Address: NRRC, ARS, USDA, Peoria, Illinois 61604. 498. Miller, Jim. 1984. Soy Deli cases in Raleys and Safeway. Fermented tofu must be refrigerated (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. April 11. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: The rst soy deli cases went into Raleys supers in Reno, Nevada, and Sacramento, California, on 16-17 May 1983. Raleys has now dropped the coolers, but integrated the soyfoods in with their other products in the natural foods section of the store. Safeway is keeping the coolers. A new area of interest is high-volume natural foods stores and co-ops. In March the Puget Consumers Co-op in Seattle, Washington, and the Arcata Co-op in Arcata, California, each took a cooler. Quong Hops fermented tofu now retails for $1.75 per pint (16 oz.). Starting about a year ago, the California state Board of Health required Quong Hop to ship and sell all of its fermented tofu refrigerated. This ruling applies to any fermented tofu made in the USA because the manufacturing process does not conform to cannery standards which are designed to prevent botulism; under extreme conditions botulism spores grew out on furu. Yet imported fermented tofu is not under this regulation because, it is believed, that its overall medium of salt and alcohol acts to prevent
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botulism. Miller estimates that 500,000 lb/year is imported. The imported product retails on average for $1.30/lb. Address: V.P. Marketing & Personnel, Quong Hop & Co., 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. Phone: 415-8734444 or 761-2022. 499. Jacobs, Susan. 1984. The Cultured Club. Fantastic fermented foods. Vegetarian Times. April. p. 44-45, 47-48. Summary: Includes a brief introduction to tempeh, fermented tofu, miso, natto, and soy sauce. 500. Leviton, Richard. 1984. Japanese soyfoods. In: Camille Cusumano. 1984. Tofu, Tempeh, & Other Soy Delights. Emmaus, Pennsylvania: Rodale Press. x + 261 p. See p. 14449. Summary: Contents: Brief biography of Leviton and introduction. Deep-fried and grilled tofu treats: age, atsuage, ganmo, yaki-dofu, doufu-gan. Tofu haute cuisine (at 280-year-old Sasa-no-Yuki in Tokyo, dried-frozen tofu, wine-fermented tofu). Delights of soymilk and yuba (incl. Yuba Han). Natto, miso, and savory soy condiments (incl. Hamanatto or savory soy nuggets, thua nao from Thailand, and natto miso). And still more: Cooked soybeans with wakame, soy sprouts packed in a sausagelike clear tube, green soybeans in the pods, kinako powder (a our made from dry roasted soybeans, used as a basis for confections or nut butters), freeze-dried instant miso soup powder, instant silken tofu powder (just add water and stir), and dry meat sauces for tofu. Address: 100 Heath Rd., Colrain, Massachusetts 01340. Phone: 413-624-5591. 501. Oda, Lorraine. 1984. Re: Soyfoods in Hawaii. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, May 22. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. Address: Editorial Asst., The Hawaii Herald, 917 Kokea St., Honolulu, Hawaii 96817. Phone: 845-2255. 502. Torii, Yasuko. 1984. New developments with tempeh in Japan (Interview). Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center, May 25. 4 p. transcript. Summary: This interview, conducted during a visit by Mrs. Torii to Soyfoods Center in Lafayette, California, discusses: Marukin Shokuhin Kogyo in Kumamoto city, Japan, Mr. Goro Kanasugi, the recent start of production of tempeh starter in Japan, tempeh made by Takashin / Takato, Ren Breuls, sales outlets for tempeh in Japan, MarusanAi in Okazaki, update on Torigoe, soybeans in Indonesia, symposium at Tsukuba (Japan) on tempeh and natto, Japan Tempeh Research Society (Tenpe Kenkyukai, Korin Shuppan KK, Iriya 1-27-4, Taito-ku, Tokyo), Okinawa fermented tofu (tofuyo), Yamagata no Shojin Bushi (dried tofu that is shaved like katsuobushi). Address: Kamitsuchidana 324, Ayase-shi, Kanagawa-ken 252, Japan. Phone: 0467-76-0811.
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503. Hu, Dezi. 1984. The production and development of soybean protein foodstuffs in China. In: S. Wong, et al., eds. 1984. Proceedings of the Second U.S.-China Soybean Symposium. Washington, DC: USDA OICD. xix + 464 p. See p. 422-26. Summary: Contents: Traditional soybean foods. Modern soybean protein food. Meat extenders and analogs. Discussion. Figure 1 shows that traditional soybean foods include tough bean curd (which can made into fermented bean curd (fu-ru), sauce bean curd, fried bean curd, or vegetable chicken), tender bean curd (to-fu), or bean curd sheet (fu-zu [yuba]). Address: Dalian Oil Industry General Factory, Liaoning. 504. Schmidt, R.H.; Morris, H.A. 1984. Gelation properties of milk proteins, soy proteins, and blended protein systems. Food Technology 38(5):85-88, 90, 92-94, 96. May. [91 ref] Summary: Special attention is given to the chemistry of soy proteins and gelation reactions involving them for the production of tofu, sufu, cheese analogs, and yogurt-type products. Address: 1. Dep. of Food Science & Human Nutrition, Univ. of Florida, Gainesville, FL 32611; 2. Dep. of Food Science & Nutrition, Univ. of Minnesota, St. Paul, MN 55108. 505. Stinchecum, Amanda Mayer. 1984. Okinawa: Chinese inuence. New York Times. June 10. p. XX6. Sunday. Summary: Urizun, a restaurant in Naha (Asato 388-5), the capital of Okinawa Prefecture, is a rare combination of superb food and ambiance. It was started 12 years ago by Tsuchiya Saneyuki, because of his passion for awamori, the Okinawan liquor distilled from Thai rice and aged like whiskey. Its avor resembles that of shochu, which is distilled from potatoes in southern Kyushu. Urizun serves Tofuyo ($1.30), Okinawa-style fermented tofu with a sharp taste. Another popular dish has a dressing of miso and vinegar. Another Okinawan standard is a creamy white tofu made of peanuts. Note: The colorful paper wrapper for Urizuns tofuyo looks like this. The text (in Japanese) on the label reads like this (see next two pages). 506. Watanabe, Tokuji; Kishi, Asako. 1984. The book of soybeans: Natures miracle protein. New York, NY: Japan Publications. 191 p. June. Illust. General index. Recipe index. 26 cm. [21 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Part 1. General information: 1. Characteristic traits: Agronomic and other biological characteristics, physical properties, chemical properties, soybean protein, properties of soybeans as food material. 2. Current ways of using and processing soybeans: Throughout the world, traditional ways of using and processing, new soybean food products. 3. Tofu and
other nonfermented soybean food products: Tofu, deep-fried tofu, dried-frozen tofu, soy milk, yuba, roasted soy our (kinako), soybean sprouts. 4. Miso and other fermented soybean products: Miso, natto, Hama-natto (tera-natt), soy sauce, sufu, tempeh. 5. Other ways of eating soybeans Simple traditional Japanese foods: Parched soybeans, boiled soybeans (budo-mame; hitasahi mame), beaten and mashed [or ground] soybeans (go, or (from edamam) zunda or jinda), molded soybean mash (jinta-dfu), molded mashed soybeans and rice our (shitogi), soybean soybean-mash paste. 6. New soybean protein products. Note 1. This is the earliest document seen (Nov. 2008) that mentions zunda. The text (p. 84) reads: When fresh green soybeans (edamame) are used in cooking, they are boiled for from ten to twenty minutes; ground; and avored with salt, sugar, and soy sauce. The resulting dish is called zunda or jinda. Note 2. Zunda is a healthy and tasty snack or treat made from mashed edamam. It is sweet, rich in protein, high in ber and emerald green. It is said to have originated hundreds of years ago in Japan in Miyagi prefecture. In and around Sendai (capital of Miyagi prefecture) one can nd many shops and booths that sell zunda cakes, zunda mochi treats, and zunda shakes, all made from edamam (green vegetable soybeans). One well-known company in Japan that markets delicious zunda products is Zunda Saryo. Part 2. Cooking with soybean food products: Tofu, yakidofu, kori-dofu, nama-age, abura-age, gammodoki, yuba, natto, miso, soy milk, soybeans, bean sprouts. Afterword. Bibliography. In the chapter on tofu, pages 43-44 discuss okara or unohana (the residue remaining after soy milk production); a photo shows it in a glass bowl. Though it formerly appeared on many Japanese tables seasoned and cooked with vegetables, today it is most often fed to animals. As the number of animals raised in urban and suburban areas decreases, however, tofu manufacturers are nding it harder to dispose of residue. Page 99 notes of tofu: At a certain temple in Kyoto is a plaque bearing the following inscription, which, while comparing this food to religious faith, clearly shows the esteem in which the Japanese people hold tofu. Religious faith should be like tofu: it is good under any circumstances. It is good boiled, grilled, or fried. Raw, chilled, served with soy sauce and other seasonings, it is good with steamed rice. Simmered in hot water and avored, it is good with sake. Because it is soft, old people and sick people welcome it, but children and young people like it too. Men like it, women like it; poor and rich both like it. Though common, it has elegance enough to nd a place in the upper class. It cuts clean and well for use in clear broths. It is good in the meatless diets of religious training. It can be crushed for use in miso soup. It is used all the time and in all seasons. It is inexpensive yet numbered among the delicious treats.
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It is welcomed everywhere, in mountains as well as in big cities. It is well received at dinners for dignitaries and guests yet is convenient enough for college students who do their own cooking. Women especially should be like tofu. The mature and cultivated person should be tender, yet rm, like tofu. Though apparently tasteless, it is delicious. Though apparently ordinary, it is extraordinary. Other ways of eating soybeans (p. 83-84): (1) Parched Parched gently in unglazed ceramic dishes made for the purpose, then tossed by people at Sestubun in February around their houses as they chant Demon out! Good luck in! Then they pick up the beans and eat them. Parched soybeans are included in some varieties of mochi (glutinous rice cake) and in okoshi a confection made of puffed rice bound together with sugar syrup. In the past they were eaten with salt, miso, or soy sauce. Note: In the USA, parched soybeans are called dry roasted soynuts. Tables show: (1) World production of soybeans (19771982). (2) Price trends in dollars per ton for wheat, soybeans, and corn (1970-1981). (3) Soybean yields in the USA and Japan (1974-1981). (4) Chemical composition of soyfoods: Tofu, abura-ag, kri-dfu, yuba, kinako, soybean sprouts, natt, miso (dark yellow), soy sauce (common), soybean (Japanese). (5) Statistics on production of modern soybean products in Japan (1975-1981). (6) Annual production and prices of modern soy protein products in the USA (May 1983). Japan once produced a million tonnes (metric tons) of soybeans annually. This gure decreased dramatically during World War II. After the war, as soybean imports from the United States steadily increased, Japans domestic crop gradually fell to the level of no more than 100,000 tonnes. In 1977 it was 111,000 tonnes, yet by 1982 it had jumped to 226,000 tonnes as rice acreage was reduced. All photos are black and white. Figures show: (2) Line drawing of soybean plant with owers and leaves. (2) Cross section of soybean seed-coat and cotyledon. (3) Graph of protein solubility (NSI) of defatted soybean meal at different pH values. (4) Graph of protein solubility (NSI) of defatted soybean meal at different concentrations of calcium chloride.
(5) Graph of relationship between time and temperature of soaking soybeans in water (colder water temperature requires longer soak time). (6) Flow sheet for making regular tofu. (7) Photo of regular (momen) cotton tofu. (8) Line drawing of grinder (horizontal type) used with soaked soybeans when making tofu. (9) Photo of continuous lter for soy-milk preparation. (10) Photo of small-scale soy-milk processing plant. (11) Line drawing of molding box [forming boxes with lids] for making regular tofu. (12) Photo of yaki-dofu [grilled tofu]. (13) Photo of okara in a glass cup. (14) Line drawing of molding box [forming box] for silken tofu. (15) Photo of silken tofu. (16) Flow sheet for packaged tofu production [GDL]. (17) Photo of packaged tofu in package. (18) Flow diagram of large-scale process for making tofu and abura-age with 26 pieces of equipment labeled. (20) Flow diagram of continuous process for making packaged tofu [GDL]. (21) Photo of 2 pieces of abura-ag. (22) Photo of deep fryer for making abura-ag. (23) Photo of nama-ag [deep fried tofu cutlet]. (24) Photo of two types of ganmodoki. (25) Line drawing for tofu kneader for ganmodoki production. (26) Photo of kri-dofu [dried frozen tofu]. (27) Flow sheet for making dried-frozen tofu. (28) Flow diagram of process for making large-scale dried-frozen tofu. (29) Photo of aseptic carton and glass of soy milk. (30) Flow sheet for making aseptically packaged soy milk. (31) Photo of 5 different forms of dried yuba. (32) Photo of kinako in two clear glass bowls. (33) Photo of soybean sprouts in a woven bamboo basket. (34) Flow sheet for making miso. (35) Three different types and colors of miso on 3 bamboo rice paddles (shamoji). (36) Line drawing of cut-away view of traditional pressure cooker (koshiki) for rice cooking. (37) Diagram of continuous rice cooker with 7 parts labeled. (38) Line drawing of Aspergillus oryzae with conidia (spores), sterigmata, and mycelium labeled. (39) Photo of pieces of koji. (40) Diagram of modern fermentation room for making koji. (41) Cut-away view of miso fermenting in a wooden vat with stone weights above vinyl lm on top. (42) Line drawing of a mashing machine for miso. (43) Photo of natto in rice straw wrapper and polystyrene tray. (44) Cross sectional view of pressure cooker for soybeans. (45) Line drawing of rotating mixer to combine cooked soybeans with
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU pure-cultured Bacillus natto. (46) Photo of soy sauce table dispenser. (47) Flow sheet for making Japanese soy sauce (shoyu). (48) Transparent view of crusher (roller) for roasted wheat in making soy sauce. (49) Photo of modern stainless steel fermentation tanks / vats (indoors). (50) Photo of a jar and a cup of sufu [fermented tofu]. (51) Diagram showing relationships between modern soy protein foods. Note: Surprisingly, edamam, one of the most popular soyfoods in Japan, is mentioned only once, in passing (p. 84) in this book. Photos on the rear cover show Tokuji Watanabe and Asako Kishi. A brief biography of each is given. Tokuji Watanabe: Born in 1917 in Tokyo, he graduated from the Faculty of Agriculture of Tokyo University in 1941, with Doctor of Agriculture. In 1945 he entered the National Food Research Institute (NFRI), of which he became director in 1971. In 1977 he resigned that position and became a professor at the Kyoritsu Womens University, where he now teaches. Address: 1. D. Agr., Kyoritsu Womens Univ., Tokyo. 507. Yasuda, Masaaki; Soeshi, K.; Miyahira, M. 1984. Purication and properties of acid protease from Monascus sp. No. 3403. Agricultural and Biological Chemistry 48(6):1637-39. June. [16 ref. Eng] Summary: Red rice koji (beni-koji), prepared by growing Monascus on steamed rice, is an important material used in making red fermented tofu (Tofuyo), which has long been manufactured in Okinawa. The ripening of this food is greatly affected by the quality of the koji, and its protease is thought to be the key enzyme. Although fungal proteases have been studied in depth, information on the enzymes produced by the Monascus mold has previously been very limited. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Nishihara, Okinawa 903-01, Japan. 508. Carroll, Maurice; Rimer, Sara. 1984. New York day by day: Tofu on the mind. New York Times. Sept. 14. p. B3. Summary: Some might say that David Mintz, the Brooklyn man who invented the nondairy frozen tofu dessert known as Tofutti, is obsessed with tofu. The founder of Tofu-Time Inc., Mr. Mintz dreams of tofu. He spends hours in the kitchen concocting Tofutti avors and recipes with the product made from fermented soybean curd such as tofu beef stroganoff and tofu brownies. He married last year and his wedding cake was made of tofu. And now, just in time for the Jewish New Year (Rosh Hashanah), Mr. Mintz has developed three special nondairy recipes: Tofu matzoh balls, Tofu noodle pudding (recipe given, calling for 1 pound tofu), and Tofu honey cake. Note: Neither Tofutti nor any of the other dishes mentioned above is made with fermented soybean curd [fermented tofu]. The stroganoff and brownies are made
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with regular tofuwhich is not fermented. The cake probably had icing / frosting, including layers, made of sweetened, blended tofu. 509. Chen, Steve. 1984. Soyfoods in the Far East and USA: Products, markets, trends. In: American Soybean Assoc., ed. 1984. First European Soyfoods Workshop, Proceedings. Brussels, Belgium: ASA. 36 p. See p. C1-C38. Held Sept. 27-28 at Amsterdam, Netherlands. [11 ref] Summary: Contents: Summary. 1. Introduction: Ten reasons why soybeans will be a key protein source for the future. 1. Soyfood products. A. Non-fermented soyfoods: Fresh green soybeans, soybean sprouts, soynuts, soymilk, soy our, yuba or soy protein lm, tofu. B. Fermented soyfoods: Soy sauce, miso, tempeh, natto, fermented tofu, soy nuggets (tou-shih, hamanatto). 3. Soyfoods markets and trends in the Far East: Taiwan, China, Japan, South Korea, Indonesia, Malaysia, Singapore, Thailand, Philippines. 4. Soyfoods markets and trends in the U.S. 5. References. Plus 15 tables and 8 gures. It is our [American Soybean Associations] strong intention that marketing and consumption of soy protein should not in any way deter the expansion of the production and sale of as much animal protein as the world can be expected to produce in the years ahead. Soy protein foods are being intentionally brought to the market to complement and not necessarily to replace animal protein products. Taiwan imported 1.41 million tonnes (metric tons) of soybeans in 1983 and used about 250,000 tonnes as soyfoods for direct human consumption, which made Taiwan one of the highest in per capita consumption of soyfoods (13.2 kg or 29 lb) in the world. In the past 10 years (1974-1983), the consumption of traditional soyfoods showed an average increase of 3% per year as compared to 12% and 8.1% for poultry and soy oil, respectively. The market for packaged soymilk, soy pudding and tofu has also been expanding rapidly in recent years in Taiwan. Table 7 shows the production of soymilk in Taiwan, which grew from 103,600 tonnes in 1974 to 210,000 tonnes in 1983, for an average growth rate of 8.2% a year. China produces about 9 million tones of soybeans a year, and about half of these are consumed as soyfoods, giving a per capita consumption of 4.5 kg of soyfoods. An improvement in the general economy and soyfood technology and equipment will bring a sharp increase in soybean demand and more soyfoods consumption. In South Korea soymilk consumption has increased more than seven-fold in the last 4 years. Currently about 10,000 tonnes of soybeans are used to make 70,000 tonnes of soymilk. It is projected that soymilk production in Korea will double in 1984 as compared to the previous year. Indonesia continues to be Southeast Asias largest consumer of soybeans as food. In 1982/83 soybean consumption was 6.7 kg per capita. Indonesia consumes
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU about 1 million tonnes of soybeans annually, 60-65% of them in the form of tofu and 35 to 40% as tempeh. Malaysia consumes only about 30,000 tonnes of soybeans per year as food. In Singapore, more than 75% of the population of 2.5 million are Chinese. Therefore tofu, soysauce, and soymilk are the predominant traditional soyfoods consumed. Thailand consumes about 40,000 tonnes of soybeans a year as food, mainly in the form of tofu. The Philippines uses only 5,000 tonnes of soybeans annually for food, mainly as tofu. To summarize (Table 6), annual per capita consumption of soybeans in various East Asian countries, in descending order of the amount consumed, is as follows: Taiwan 13.2 kg (population 19 million); Japan 8.3 kg (population 120 million); South Korea 7.5 kg (population 40 million); Indonesia 6.7 kg (population 150 million); Singapore 6.25 kg (population 2.4 million); China 4.5 kg (population 1,000 million); Malaysia 2.1 kg (population 14 million); Thailand 0.8 kg (population 50 million); Philippines 0.3 kg (population 15 million). Address: Director, American Soybean Assoc., Room 603, Kwang-Wu Building, No. 386, Tun Hua South Road, Taipei, Taiwan. 510. Torii, Yasuko. 1984. Re: New developments with tempeh in Japan. Tofuyo now sold in Tokyo. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Oct. 16. 2 p. transcript. Handwritten on lined paper. [Jap; eng+] Summary: Mrs. Torii thinks that tempeh will spread and become popular in Japan. It is now rapidly growing in popularity. Mr. Kanasugis restaurant Mame-no-ko opened in March 1976. He makes the tempeh in a walled-off room in his natto factory. Takashin tempeh is served as tempeh cutlets at Alicias in Shimokitazawa, where it is a popular entree. The rst tempeh discussion group (Danwa-kai) in Japan was at Kyushu University, Fukuoka, on 30 July 1984. The Japanese-language program is enclosed. The next will be in Tokyo on 9 Nov. 1984. The one after that will be in Osaka. At the rst discussion group (as the program shows) the activities were speeches, discussion of winged bean tempeh, tempeh cookery, tempeh in Indonesia, and future activities. Membership is 3,000. Watanabe Tadao is in charge. Preparations are now underway for the international tempeh and natto symposium (Non-Salted Soybean Foods). Natural House sells tempeh in four places: Aoyama, Shimokitazawa, Kichijoji & Akasaka. The tempeh is made by Kanehara Shoten. Natural House also sells nigari tofu. Mr. Kanasugis method makes good, rm, tasty tempeh, with no dewatering. Prof. Watanabe and Mrs. Torii have both visited him and both praised the method. His tempeh miso is very delicious. She gives the recipe. Like Nam Miso it is good on sliced cucumber or with ginger.
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Mrs. Torii (whose mother is Okinawan) has found Okinawan fermented tofu (tofuyo) sold in Tokyo; she includes a label: Tofu maker: Mr. Y. Yamada. K.K. Maruyama (also known as Okinawa Dento Shokuhinjigyo Kydo Kumiai). Eight pieces in a glass jar retailed for 2,000. She found this product sold at two department stores in Tokyo: (1) Seibu Department Store, in Yrakucho. (2) Matsukakaya, in Ginza. 2-10-26 Matsuo, Naha-shi, Okinawa-ken 900, Japan. Phone: (0988) 63-0236. Mrs. Torii says tofuyo is like Chinese-style fermented tofu (doufu-ru) except milder and more expensive. She nds it to be delicious. It is sold in a plastic bag inside a book-sized box. It is made by Urizun, a restaurant in Naha, Okinawa. Molded tofu is immersed in a brining liquor of Ryukyu Awamori, which is clear shochu spirits. Note: Mrs. Torii brought a small sample of tofuyo to Soyfoods Center in 1984 during one of her many visits. Shurtleff and Aoyagi both tasted it straight (as is) and found it the most delicious fermented tofu they have ever tasted. It would make a delicious spread on crackers. Address: Kamitsuchidana 324, Ayase-shi, Kanagawa-ken 252, Japan. Phone: 0467-76-0811. 511. Chan, Anita; Madsen, Richard; Unger, Jonathan. 1984. Chen Village: the recent history of a peasant community in Maos China. Berkeley and Los Angeles, California: University of California Press. 293 p. * Summary: Page 14: The monotony of their starch diet was lightened only by bits of tiny salt-dried sh, pickles, fermented bean curd, and fermented black beans, the kind of strong tasting condiments that in small amounts could go a long way on rice or in gruel. Page 105: The peasants used soy sauce. 512. Clergeaud, Chantal; Clergeaud, Lionel. 1984. Mystres et secrets du soja [Mysteries and secrets of soya]. Paris: Editions La Vie Claire. 134 p. Illust. 21 cm. [Fre] Summary: Contents: 1. A little history, the properties of soya, soybean culture, soya and animal feeding, recipes based on whole soybeans (fves de soja). 2. Soy our, soy proteins, recipes based on soy our and soy proteins. 3. Soy sprouts, recipes based on soy sprouts. 4. Soy oil, recipes based on soy oil. 5. Soymilk, recipes based on soymilk. 6. Tofu, recipes based on tofu. 7. Fermented soy products: miso, recipes based on miso, tamari, tamari-shoyu, recipes based on tamari and tamari shoyu, tempeh, recipes based on tempeh. 8. Other [fermented] soy-based products consumed in the world: Chee fan (fermented tofu), Hamanatto, ketjap (Indonesian soy sauce), Meitauza (fermented okara tempeh), Sufu (fermented tofu). Address: NaturopathesOstopathes, France. 513. Hutton, Wendy. 1984. Singapore food. Singapore: Eastern Universities Press Sdn. Bhd. 202 p. See p. 28, 54,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 166. Summary: Page 28: Basic seasonings include nam yee (fermented red beancurd)... This same seasoning is called for in recipes on pages 54 and 166 (1 heaped teaspoon fermented red beancurd (nam yee)). 514. Fukushima, Danji. 1985. Fermented vegetable protein and related foods of Japan and China. Food Reviews International 1(1):149-209. [99 ref] Summary: Introduction. Historical aspects of soy sauce and miso. General description of fermented vegetable protein foods: Soy sauce (varieties, manufacturing, avor components and quality evaluation), miso, natto, sufu (fermented product of tofu), fermented soy milk. Microbiology, biochemistry and nutrition: Role of koji as enzyme source (unique sources of enzymes, peptidases in koji, role of proteinases and peptidases in koji during protein digestion, role of glutaminase in koji in formation of glutamic acid during protein digestion), effect of heat treatment of soybean proteins on their digestibility and nutritive value (enzyme digestibility and yield of soy sauce, enzyme digestibility and nutritive value of protein), basic mechanisms for protein coagulation, microorganisms during brine fermentation in soy sauce and miso (change of microora during brine fermentation, properties of P. halophilus, properties of S. rouxii, properties of Torulopsis species), nutritive value, safety and anticarcinogenicity of fermented foods. Future of traditional vegetable protein foods made through fermentation. References. Address: Food Science Research Lab., Kikkoman Corp., Noda-shi, Chibaken, Japan. 515. Langley-Danysz, Pernette. 1985. Lentre discrte du soja en Europe [The discreet / cautious entry of soya into Europe]. Revue Laitiere Francaise No. 438. p. 16-20. Feb. [Fre] Summary: An illustration on the cover shows an American cowboy-like man, wearing a cowboy hat and cowboy boots, smoking a cigarette, and carrying a briefcase on which is written ASA. He appears to be emerging from a garbage can labeled soya and from his briefcase are ying several cartons of soymilk. The article begins: Two soy products, milk and tofu, were at the center of a conference organized in September 1984 at Amsterdam [Netherlands] by the American Soybean Association (ASA). Gives data on the chemical composition and nutritive value of soy beverages, soymilks, and tofu. Discusses the products recently introduced in Europe. Consumption of soy products in the E.E.C., principally as soy protein concentrates or isolates, has never exceeded 40,000 tonnes/ year. Consumption of traditional East Asian soyfoods such as tempeh, miso, sufu, and soy sauce, is still low in Europe, but consumption of tofu and soymilk is growing signicantly. Nutritional composition of cows milk and soymilk are
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compared, and various commercial soy products are discussed. Soy ice creams (including Ice Bean and Tofutti) are discussed in detail on page 19, col. 1. The pioneer of these soy ice creams (ces ice cream au soja), named Ice Bean, was developed by Farm Foods in Tennessee. Today there are a dozen other brands of tofu ice cream (glaces au tofu). One of these ice creames (ces crmes glaces), Tofutti, made by the company Tofu Time and presented at SIAL in 1984, took the rst place last fall on the hit parade of dairy products from the United States. Note: This is the earliest French-language document seen (March 2007) that mentions soy ice cream which it calls ice cream au soja, or glaces au tofu, or crmes glaces. Photos show the following products, each in a Tetra Brik carton: Nestle Bonus Soya Bean Milk, Plamil Soya Milk Concentrated, Morinaga Ever-Fresh Silken Tofu, Yeos Soya Bean Drink, Alpro Soya Drink. Address: France. 516. NHK of Japan. 1985. Tfuy [Tofuyo, Okinawan fermented tofu]. Television broadcast / documentary. Friday, March 8. [Jap; eng+] Summary: A person from NHK went to Okinawa on 19 Feb. 1985 and visited the market located in Makishi, near the center of Naha city. It was on the last day of the year, the day before New Years day (o-misoka), as celebrated according to the ancient lunar calendar. The market was very crowded since many Okinawans still use the lunar calendar. Cakes of Okinawan tofu are large and very rm. Tofu is called rikuni agatta o-tofu, which means tofu landed on a shore. There are about 300 shops in the market but only one shop, Sabur-ya, that sells tofuyo and only about 10% of the customers buy tofuyo. It is sold in a box. Its color is a pretty red. Red koji (aka-koji, beni-koji) is used to make it. It is very difcult and time consuming to make at home. Tofuyo is not the most popular food in Okinawa among regular people. In the old days, the royal family treasured it as a special delicacy (chinmi) that was largely reserved for them. During the Okinawa dynasty, the royal family lived in the city Shuri, which is today a district in the highlands of Naha, at the southern part of Okinawa island. It was formerly a separate city unto itself and the royal capital of the Ryukyu Kingdom, the site of Shuri Castle. It is believed that the idea for tofuyo came from Chinese fermented tofu. It is difcult to make good tofuyo, and the ageing process takes 3-4 months. Today there are very few people who can still make tofuyoeven in Shuri. 517. Byrne, Maureen. 1985. The future for soyfoods. The rst European Soyfoods Workshop was held in Amsterdam by the American Soybean Association, and papers covered subjects from marketing to microbiological standards. Food Manufacture (London) 60(3):49, 51, 53. March.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Summary: Contains an interesting full-page table in which Oriental soyfoods are classied into two types: Nonfermented and fermented. The non-fermented soyfoods are: Fresh green soybeans, soybean sprouts, soynuts, soymilk, soy our, soy protein-lipid lm (yuba, tou-fu-pi), soybean curd (tofu). For each food is given the local names, description, and uses. The fermented soyfoods are: Soy sauce, miso, tempeh, natto, fermented tofu, and soy nuggets. For each fermented soyfood is given the local names, organisms used, description, and uses. Soy sauce includes chiang-yu from China, shoyu from Japan, ketjap from Indonesia, kanjang from Korea, toyo and see-ieu from Southeast Asia. Soy nuggets include tau-shih from China, tao-si from the Philippines, tau-cheo from Malaysia, tauco from Indonesia, and Hamanatto from Japan. 518. Kyo no Ryori (Todays Food, NHK).1985. Tfuy [Tofuyo, Okinawan fermented tofu]. March. p. 84-85. Based on an NHK-TV documentary on tofu-yo, broadcast Friday, March 8. [Jap; eng+] Summary: Tofuyo. Even if you can imagine, from its name, that it is a food made from tofu, very few people know what tofuyo is. It tastes like a cheese and there is a similar product in China named funyu [fermented tofu]. It is a special delicacy in Okinawa, made from tofu which is fermented in red rice koji and awamori (millet brandy). However tofu made in Okinawa is rmer (it contains less water) than regular tofu (momen-goshi) made in Japan. And each cake of tofu is large, weighing about 900 gm. Also the method of selling the tofu is a little different; it is not immersed in water but a large piece (containing about 5 cakes) is placed on a wooden cutting board and covered with a kitchen cloth (fukin). The tofu seller cuts each cake of tofu according to the customers desire. Tofu is essential, as is pork, in the diet and food culture of Okinawans. The most popular dish prepared at home in Okinawa is chanpur [champuru] which means something mixed. It is made from tofu and seasonal vegetables stir fried (or sauted) together, often with a little meat or sh. Tofuyo, by contrast, is a delicacy most suited for drinking with sak. Photos show: (1) The inside of a Okinawan shop that makes the islands most popular distilled alcoholic beverage, awamori (millet brandy), in large earthenware vats. There are ten or more old makers of awamori in Naha city (formerly named Shuri). (2) The process for fermenting rice. (3) Freshly made tofu; it is carried to the store in a wooden frame. (4) Wooden presses with heavy weights on top. Soymilk curds are being pressed. (5) To make tofuyo, soak rice koji in awamori for about 10 days. After it becomes soft, grind it in a suribachi. If you have red koji (beni-koji), put it in too, and season with salt and sugar. Cut rm tofu
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into cubes about 3 cm on a side. Sprinkle salt over them. Dry them on a at woven-bamboo tray in a shady place. When the tofu becomes yellowish, wash them in awamori 2-3 times. Place them in a jar of the seasoned sweet koji and cover. Place the jar in a refrigerator and allow to ferment for 3-6 months. (6) Tofuyo in the jar in which it is ripening. (7) Ksetsu Shijo (huge indoor market) near Heiwa-dori in Naha city, Okinawa. It is regarded as the kitchen of Okinawa. (8) In Okinawa, all parts of slaughtered pigs (intestines, ears, legs, etc.) are sold as food in Kosetsu market; nothing is wasted. (8) There are tofu shops in Kosetsu market. They cut tofu into one cake (cho) pieces at the request of customers. (9) For more information contact Naha-shi Kank Kykai (Tourists Bureau), Phone: 0988-68-4887. Senzaki 1-1, Naha city 900, Okinawa. Note: The NHK TV broadcast on tofuyo was on Friday 8 March 1985. 519. McCormick, Richard D. 1985. Methods for developing unique textured foods. Prepared Foods. March. p. 155-56. Summary: Four factors contribute to the acceptance of a novel food or beverage: color, aroma, avor, and texture. The important basic role of food structure and texture, and ways of obtaining unique and inviting textures are discussed. These concepts are applied to the various types of tofu, dried-frozen tofu, and fermented tofu. For example, the use of GDL as a coagulant yields very soft tofu with a silken texture. Deep-frying yields a porous, elastic texture. Freezing creates a sponge-like texture. 520. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1985. Soyfoods industry and market: Directory and databook 1985. 5th ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 220 p. Index. April. 28 cm. Updated every 1-3 years with a bibliographic supplement. [360 ref] Summary: Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Directory of soyfoods manufacturers. 3. Directory of soyfoods support industry: Goods & services. 4. The many types of soyfoods. 5. Historical: Historically most important books and serials, earliest references to individual soyfoods. 6. Year in review. 7. Soyfoods industry and market in the U.S. 8. Tofu industry and market in the U.S. and Canada. 9. Soymilk industry and market: Worldwide and in the U.S. 10. Tempeh industry and market in the U.S. 11. Soy sauce industry and market in the U.S. and Japan. 12. Miso industry and market in the U.S. and Japan. 13. Soynut industry and market in the U.S. 14. Natto industry and market in Japan. 15. Statistics on fermented soyfoods in East Asia. 16. Soyfoods in restaurants, delis & cafeterias. 17. Soybean crushing industry in the U.S. 18. Soy oil industry and market in the U.S. 19. Soy our and cerealsoy blends industry and market worldwide. 20. Modern soy protein products industry and market in the U.S. 21. Soyfoods terminology and standards. 22. Names of soyfoods in major foreign languages (incl. Chinese / pinyin; Hoisin
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU sauce = haixian jiang). 23. Soybean production worldwide and country-by-country. 24. Key institutions working with soyfoods worldwide. 25. Measures, weights, and equivalents. 26. About the Soyfoods Center & soyfoods consulting services. 27. Bibliography. In February 1977 a Gallup poll in America showed a remarkable shift in the publics awareness of and attitudes toward soyfoods. The sampling of 1,543 adults across the nation found that: 33% believe that soybeans will be the most important source of protein in the futureahead of sh at 24% and meat at 21%. 55% believe that soy products have a nutritional value equal or superior to that of meat. 54% reported that they had eaten foods containing soy protein as a prime ingredient within the past 12 months. Younger age groups living in large cities and those with college or university educations had the most favorable attitudes toward soy protein, indicating that support for soyfoods is likely to grow in the future. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 521. Zhiping, Shen. 1985. Nutritional evaluation of fermented soybean curd. J. of Applied Nutrition 37(1):35-40. Spring. [6 ref] Summary: Discusses the basic steps in making fermented tofu, gives a nutritional analysis of red sufu, white sufu, zao sufu (made with fermented rice mash), and chau sufu (a type with a strong smell). Protein content ranges from 11.7 to 14.6%. Gives the amino acid content of red sufu and chau sufu. Vitamin B-12 is highest in strong smelling sufu (1.9 to 9.8 micrograms/100 gm), and 0.42 to 0.78 in red sufu. Address: Inst. of Health, China National Center for Preventive Medicine. 522. Shurtleff, William. 1985. Re: Computerizing card catalog. Thank you for tempeh materials. Letter to Yasuko Torii, Kamitsuchidana 324, Ayase-shi, Kanagawa-ken 252, Japan, Aug. 1. 1 p. Typed, without signature (carbon copy). Summary: Dear Torii-san. We are right in the middle of computerizing our Soyfoods Center library card catalog. Already this summer we have keyed in 7,000 cards into the computer. A very talented Stanford student is doing the actual data entry and I am preparing and then proong every card as it is printed out. It keeps me working 12 hours a day, 7 days a week just to keep up with him. So, this will have to be brief. Above all I want to thank you for all of the wonderful things that you have sent me, the letters about the conference, the symposium brochures, the clippings, and your good letters. They are very, very interesting to me. I also look forward to hearing whatever tapes you send. Ill return the Tofuyo [Okinawan fermented tofu] video cassette and the tapes to you by the end of September, and write more at that time when Im a little more free. Im also sending you $20 to (hopefully) cover expenses (postage, etc.).* You are
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such a kichinto-shita hito! [accurate, precise, punctual, neat and tidy person]. Both Akiko and I greatly appreciate this! Sincerely,... * To make it as easy as possible for you (though it doesnt seem as much like a real gift or money), we are deducting the $20 from your invoice. Akiko said if we sent you a $20 bill it would at be mendokusai [a nuisance] to go to the bank to cash it. I hope thats okay. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 523. Hesseltine, C.W. 1985. Fungi, people, and soybeans. Mycologia 77(4):505-25. July/Aug. [92 ref] Summary: In this Mycological Society of America Annual Lecture, presented on 7 Aug. 1984 at Colorado State University (Fort Collins, Colorado), Dr. Hesseltine gives a nice history of the research conducted by him and others at the Northern Regional Research Center (NRRC) on Asian soybean fermentations, including fermented tofu (Frank Meyer, early USDA plant explorer, in a letter dated 21 Nov. 1916, states: Parcel No. 125c contains rst quality Chinese soybean cheese: please taste a little on the point of a knife; it is extremely appetizing.), sufu, shoyu, miso, tempeh, Chinese black beans (soy nuggets), natto, and the use of lactic acid bacteria to produce a yogurt product from soybeans. He also studied non-fermented tofu. Dr. Hesseltine pays a nice tribute to the work of Dr. A.K. Smith of the NRRC (p. 506-07). After his trip to East Asia shortly after World War II, Dr. Smith (a protein chemist) made great efforts to promote cooperation between the USDA, particularly the NRRC, and Japan in conducting research to understand how our exported soybeans were used for food. He had the foresight to recognize the importance of studying soybeans used in such huge quantities for processing into human food. Dr. Smith was instrumental in arranging for two Japanese scientists (Dr. Tokuji Watanabe and Dr. Kazuo Shibasaki) to come to the NRRC to do research on tofu and miso. This really began a new era of research on use of Oriental methods to produce foods from soybeans (p. 507). My rst real involvement in fermentation of soybeans was the arrival [in Oct. 1958] of Professor K. Shibasaki of Tohoku University to study the miso fermentation. He was sponsored by the American Soybean Association and USDAs Foreign Agricultural Service. When he arrived, I was told that since I was curator of the mold collection and since the Aspergillus oryzae strains used in the miso process were in my charge, I would be the person he would work with. I had no background and no interest in soybean fermentations, but this was a fortuitous happening because it acquainted me with Oriental food fermentations. All my background was in conventional liquid agitated pure culture fermentation. The miso fermentation introduced me to two new concepts in fermentation: (1) solid state fermentation, and (2) use of mixed pure culture inoculum (p. 510).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Probably my interest in fermented foods would have abated had it not been for the acceptance of Mr. Ko Swan Djien of Indonesia, who came to us in 1960 for practical training. In my rst discussion with him, we talked about the kind of work he would do. Since I knew that a fermentation was conducted in Indonesia using soybeans and reportedly the fermentation organism was a species of Rhizopus, I asked him if he was familiar with the product; his answer was yes, that he often ate it, but he knew nothing about how the fermentation was conducted. It was decided that during his 6 months at Peoria this might be an interesting subject to study, especially since he could obtain samples of the tempeh cake from his wife, who was in Java and could tell good tempeh from bad. Dried samples were quickly obtained; from these cakes, four species of Rhizopus were isolated (p. 514-15). Eventually many strains of Rhizopus were isolated and investigations showed that Rhizopus oligosporus strain NRRL 2710 produced especially good tempeh. Photos show four famous Japanese scientists who studied fermented foods: (1) Prof. Teizo Takahashi. (2) Ryoji Nakazawa. (3) Kin-ichiro Sakaguchi. (4) Kendo Saito. Address: NRRC, ARS/USDA, Peoria, Illinois. 524. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1985. Re: Tofuyo, Okinawan fermented tofu. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Oct. 9in reply to inquiry of Sept. 15. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. [4 ref. Eng] Summary: I want to help you on this subject heartily. I will answer your questions and send you some good documents, Address: PhD, Assoc. Prof. of Agricultural Chemistry, Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01, Japan. Phone: 09889-2221. 525. Lee, Stanley. 1985. Brief history of Quong Hops Bean Cake (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Nov. 18. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: Wm. Shurtleff made an appointment with Stanley Lee to have lunch together in South San Francisco and talk about the history Quong Hops fermented tofu. The product, rst made in 1906 in San Francisco, had always had a Cantonese Chinese name (Fu-Yu) and an English name (Bean Cake). The English name was used mostly because of health inspectors and because of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearmsespecially during the Prohibition era (1920-1933) in the USA. There was no tax on the product until Prohibition went into effect. There have always been inexpensive imports with which Quong Hop has had to compete, except during World War II. Today these were made mostly in Hong Kong (#1), China, and Taiwan (#3). The U.S. market is composed of about 90% imports and 10% Quong Hopnow the only manufacturer in the USA. The red label (regular, with no chili akes added), is used mostly by restaurants and served mostly with beef.
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In about 1948 the Caucasian chef at a big Statler hotel in Boston started to use it as a seasoning in spaghetti sauce. Many types of fermented tofu use no alcohol; they just add lots of salt. Another company on Sacramento St. in San Francisco may have made fermented tofu as early as 1904. Wo Chong also started making fermented tofu on Jackson St. in San Francisco. From the early days until 1941 it could be packaged in two ways: (1) Pack in a can 4-5 inches tall, or (2) Pack in a cylinder 3 inches in diameter, pour in the solution, then seal the mouth with tough paper and paste. Glass pint jars came later, when World War II started and metal was rationed. The company name, Quong Hop, was the name of an old, famous company in Guangdong province not far from Canton. Stanley is the grandson of Quong Hops founder. Address: Owner, Quong Hop & Co., 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. Phone: 415-873-4444 or 761-2022. 526. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1985. History of fermented tofu. Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, CA 94549. 36 p. Nov. 22. Unpublished typescript. Summary: A comprehensive history of the subject. Contents: Introduction: Two basic types. Part I: History of Chinese-style fermented tofu. Introduction: General description, how its made. Basic types and varieties of fermented tofu. Etymology. Western mold-ripened dairy cheeses. History of fermented tofu in China. History of fermented tofu in Taiwan. History of fermented tofu in Japan and Okinawa (tofuyo), Japan 1912 to the 1980s. History of fermented tofu in East and Southeast Asia. History of fermented tofu in Europe. History of fermented tofu in the United States. Part II: History of fermented tofu cheeses. Cheeses. Note: As of Aug. 2004 this chapter can be viewed free of charge by going to the Soyinfo Center website (www. soyinfocenter.com) and searching for: History fermented tofu. Address: Lafayette, California. Phone: 415-283-2991. 527. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1985. Re: History of fermented tofu in China. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Dec. 9in reply to inquiry. 1 p. Typed, with signature on letterhead. [1 ref. Eng] Summary: I think the origin of fermented tofu in China is very uncertain. I believe the time of origin of doufu-ru is later than the Pen-tsao Kang-mu compiled by Li Shih-chen (1578-1597; Ming dynasty). The nyu-fu in that book is not fermented tofu, but rather cows milk protein coagulated with acetic acid. Therefore, I think Yamazakis Nyu-fu (in the Gyoku Hen) is also a dairy product. Yamazakis Nyufu in my article was cited from Ohtas article (Nippon Jozo Kyokai Zasshi, 1965, July and August). Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01, Japan. Phone: 09889-2221. 528. Aubert, Claude. 1985. Les aliments ferments traditionnels: Une richesse mconnue [Traditional fermented foods: An unrecognized richness]. Paris: Terre Vivante. 261 p. Index. 21 cm. Series: Collection les Vrais Aliments dAujourdhui et de Demain. [173* ref. Fre] Summary: The author gives good, brief introductions to the fermented soyfoods tempeh, miso, miso pickles, shoyu, tamari, sufu, natto, soy idli, and hamanatto. Related foods that are also discussed include koji, amazake (amasak), and ontjom. See especially chapter VII: The fermentation of legumes (p. 73-78). Part IV (p. 153-216) is a dictionary of fermented foods and beverages, in which they are listed alphabetically; basic information and references for each are given. Instructions are given for preparing many of these foods on a home scale, and for some foods (such as tempeh) even recipes are given (fried tempeh, tempeh goreng). The book contains many beautiful illustrations and an excellent bibliography. The author acknowledges his extensive use of the material in Handbook of Indigenous Fermented Foods (1983) edited by K.H. Steinkraus. Address: Ingnieur agronome de formation, France. 529. Culioli, J. 1985. Les procds de texturation des matires protiques vgtales: Aspects technologiques [The processes of texturization of vegetable protein materials: Technological aspects]. In: B. Godon, ed. 1985. Protines Vgtales [Vegetable Proteins]. Paris: Technique et DocumentationLavoisier : APRIA. xxvi + 629 p. See p. 489-522. [99 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Traditional foods based on textured soy protein: Tofu, dried-frozen tofu, yuba, sufu (fermented tofu), tempeh. The principles of protein texturization. Spinning: Historical, processes, aptitude of proteins for spinning, the texture and structure of spun proteins, the techniques of spinning derived from the Boyer process. Cookingextrusion. Other processes for texturization of protein. Conclusion. Address: Institut National de la Recherche Agronomique, Station de Recherches sur la Viande, Theix 63110 Beaumont, France. 530. Lo, Kenneth H.C. 1985. New Chinese cooking school. Tucson, Arizona: HP Books. 288 p. Illust. Index. 28 cm. Summary: On the cover, below the title we read: An illustrated course in contemporary Chinese cuisine. A gorgeous book, packed with superb color photos on glossy paper. One chapter (p. 98-115), titled Bean curd and eggs, contains many tofu recipes. Other tofu recipes are scattered throughout the book. The section titled Soy beans and bean-based products (p. 26) gives brief denitions of: Bean curd [tofu], bean curd cheese [fermented tofu], bean curd skin [yuba], salted black beans [soy nuggets] (Cooked, salted and fermented whole
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soy beans. Mash them with other ingredients or mix into dishes for color and rich, earthy, piquant avor), Sichuan chili paste (yellow soy bean paste mixed with dried chilies and their seeds, sugar, and garlic), soy bean paste (crushed soy beans mixed with sugar, salt, and chili), sweet bean paste (made from cooked, pured, sweetened red beans [azuki]), and yellow bean paste (made of fermented, salted pured yellow [soy] beans with salt, our and water). Also contains recipes for: Bean-curd cheese [fermented tofu], p. 88, 89. Bean curd skin [yuba] (p. 200, with color photo of dried bean curd skin on p. 18). Recipes and photos for salted black beans [soy nuggets] or black bean sauce are: Steamed scallops with black bean sauce (p. 132, 138). Quick-fried crab in black bean sauce (p. 144). Cantonese steamed spareribs with black beans (p. 186, 188). Sliced beef in black bean and chili sauce (p. 201). Ho-fen noodles with beef in black bean sauce (p. 270, 273). Soy sauce is used in recipes throughout the book. A color photo on the rear dust jacket cover shows Kenneth Lo. His biography, on the inside rear dust jacket, states that he is acknowledged the world over as an authority on Chinese food, and is a graduate of both Peking and Cambridge universities. He is also the founder of one of Londons best-known Chinese restaurants. 531. Yan, Martin. 1985. Martin Yan: The Chinese chef. Garden City, New York: Doubleday & Company Inc. 180 p. Summary: From the National Public Television Series Yan Can Cook, now in its sixth season since 1978. One of the shows sponsors is Kikkoman. The recipes in this book are divided by geographical region. The best way to grasp the diversity of Chinas cuisine is to consider the land as divided into four major culinary regions [north, south, east, and west], each boasting its own cultural identity. Contents: Introduction. Canton. Szechuan and Hunan. Peking. Shanghai. Nouvelle cuisine. Contains at least 10 recipes for tofu (the term now preferred by the author to bean curd, though he uses both), plus a recipe for Black Bean Sauce (p. 32). Red fermented bean curd is mentioned on page 10 (no. 48 in list) and in a recipe on p. 38. On page 79 is a description of the many uses of the soybean, including dark/thick and light/thin soy sauce, tofu (fresh bean curd), deep-fried bean curd, dried bean curd sheets or sticks (yuba), and fermented bean curd [fermented tofu] in red and white versions. Dark soy sauce has a heavier consistency and is somewhat sweeter. Its dark color imparts a reddish-brown hue to the foods cooked in it, so it is used in red-cooked dishes. Light soy is an all-purpose soy sauce often used in marinades and in stir-fry dishes. Address: Yan Can & Company, Inc., P.O. Box 4755, Foster City, California 94404. 532. Rocheman, Marc. 1986. Les aliments ferments derivs
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU du soja [Fermented foods derived from soya]. Biofutur No. 43. p. 34-42. Feb. [8 ref. Fre] Summary: Gives the composition and nutritive value of various soy products: tofu, fermented tofu (sufu), miso, natto, shoyu, and tempeh. Describes the possibilities for use of koji, as a source of proteases and peptidases, in the production of these fermented foods. 533. Perez, Oswaldo. 1986. La soya en la alimentacion humana [Soya in human nutrition]. La Era Agricola (Merida, Venezuela) No. 0. May. p. 14-15. [1 ref. Spa] Summary: Shows how soya makes most efcient use of the earths ability to produce protein. Address: Granja Tierra Nueva, Aldea San Luis, La Azulita, C.P. 5102, Estado Merida, Venezuela. 534. Torii, Yasuko. 1986. New developments with tofuyo in Japan (Interview). Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center, Aug. 9. 4 p. transcript. Summary: This interview was conducted during a visit by Mrs. Torii to Soyfoods Center in Lafayette, California. She brings tofuyo made in Okinawa. Dr. Masaaki Yasuda in Okinawa says this is the real thing, made my a good company that uses awamori. It is very expensive: 2,500 yen for a small container. It does not have a sharp avor; it reminds Akiko of sea urchin (uni). She says it is a delicacy (chinmi). The other maker is Urizun, which is also a restaurant; they are bigger and more modern, and they use raw alcohol instead of awamori. The small number of makers of this traditional food belong to a trade association (kyodo kumiai) named Okinawa Dento Shokuhin Jigyo Kyodo Kumiai, located in Naha, the capital of Okinawa. It is now widely available via the yoi shokuhin o tsukuru kai (the society for making good foods). They are very strict about quality, and starting 5-6 years ago they have had a corner in Matsuzakaya and Sogo department stores. Tofuyo is eaten a tiny bit at a time on the point of a sort of toothpick (yji, or with chopsticks) while people are drinking sak and eating. Mrs. Toriis parents were born in Okinawa Address: Kamitsuchidana 324, Ayase-shi, Kanagawa-ken 252, Japan. Phone: 0467-76-0811. 535. Boon-Long, Narudom. 1986. Traditional technologies of Thailand: Traditional fermented food products. In: V.H. Potty, et al. eds. 1986. Traditional Foods: Some Products and Technologies. 292 p. See p. 114-33. Aug. Presented at the UN University Workshop on Traditional Food Technologies: Their Development and Integrated Utilisation with Emerging Technologies. Held June 1983 at CFTRI, Mysore, India. [23 ref] Summary: Products such as soy sauce, soy paste
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(Tao-Jeow), fermented soybean curd [Sufu] and Thuanao constitute the major traditional fermented foods [of Thailand]. The rst three are common throughout the country. Thua-nao is popular in northern Thailand. Flowcharts and details are given concerning the production of each of these products. Address: Dep. of Food Science & Technology, Kasetsart Univ., Bangkok, Thailand. 536. Shah, F.H. 1986. Fermented foods of Pakistan. In: V.H. Potty, et al. eds. 1986. Traditional Foods: Some Products and Technologies. 292 p. See p. 44-48. Aug. Presented at the UN University Workshop on Traditional Food Technologies: Their Development and Integrated Utilisation with Emerging Technologies. Held June 1983 at CFTRI, Mysore, India. [7 ref] Summary: In the section titled Fermented foods from different raw materials, the subsection on Legumes states that Soybean meal, left after extraction of oil, can be used for producing a variety of foodstuffs, including soy yogurt, soy-cheese (tofu, apparently fermentedbased on chapter title), and tempeh. Concerning Soy-cheese: Cheese produced from soybeans has cream white colour, delicate avour, pleasant taste and texture. It is a low-cost high quality protein, free from cholesterol and with minimum amount of saturated fats. Address: Food Technology and Fermentation Div., PCSIR Laboratories, Lahore, Pakistan. 537. Yin, Zong Lun. 1986. Development and industrialization of traditional food production in China. In: V.H. Potty, et al. eds. 1986. Traditional Foods: Some Products and Technologies. 292 p. See p. 191-200. Aug. Presented at the UN University Workshop on Traditional Food Technologies: Their Development and Integrated Utilisation with Emerging Technologies. Held June 1983 at CFTRI, Mysore, India. Summary: Under Oilseeds, Soy products, the author discusses soymilk, soybean curds (tofu; soft tofu is popular in south China and hard tofu in North China), fried bean curd, smoked bean curd, stink avoured bean curd, soymilk skin sheet [yuba], dried soymilk skin sticks [bamboo yuba], fermented bean curd or soy cheese, and soybean powder. Under Condiments, soy sauce is discussed. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term soymilk skin or soymilk skin sheet to refer to yuba, or that uses the term dried soymilk skin sticks to refer to bamboo yuba. These products form an important part in a vegetarians diet and are used in conjunction with other ingredients to prepare imitation meat and sh like products for vegetarian dishes (p. 194). Soymilk is a very popular breakfast beverage. In order to supplement milk supplies and also meet the special needs of those who, for some reason cannot drink milk, processing
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU factories have been set up with relatively large-scale production capacities for soymilk. With the same distribution pattern as milk, soymilk is supplied to various catering departments, schools, kindergartens, nurseries and families. The process employed for soymilk ensures destruction of trypsin inhibitor and effective deodorization to reduce the unpleasant bean-taste... Fermented bean curd or soy cheese can be produced by the fermentation of bean curd. The fermented bean curd may differ in shape (square bits, cubes), colour (white, red), avor and smell; the products can also be steeped in seasoned rice wine or preserved with drags of rice wine. Sometimes they contain added pepper, rose leaves or shrimp spawn. The traditional production procedure is very subtle. The aging process requires high levels of skill and experience. The product is liable to break down and careful handling is needed. Presently, a new type of fermented bean curd in the form of paste which is more amenable to handling and packaging, and consuming has appeared on the market. However, this product does not conform to Chinese traditional eating habit and is, therefore, now [not?] widely accepted, either for nutritional value or avour. Soy cheese has a great potential for development... In several baby food recipes, soybean constitutes an important source of protein. The well known milk substitute 5410 formulated during the 1950s contained soybean powder as the main ingredient. Formula 5410 has proved to be a success in terms of its nutritional value. It has become the basic recipe for many milk substitutes. Some factories use spray drying process to produce instant blended milk powder consisting of soymilk, milk and other ingredients; they have gained some technological and nancial benets. In recent years, there has been a continuous ow of such products into the market. Based on previous research efforts, and in conformity with Chinas present situation, work is being done to develop an oil-containing concentrated soy protein. The techniques involved have certain positive characteristics. The end product can be a liquid for direct use as a food ingredient or a spray-dried powder for the formulation of dry-mixes. Address: Research Inst. of Light Industry, Beijing, Peoples Republic of China. 538. Arocena, Javier. 1986. Re: Brief history of the soyfoods company Zuaitzo in Spain. Letter to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, Sept. 10. 2 p. Typed, without signature on letterhead. [Eng] Summary: Ive been working for the last 4 years making tofu, seitan, and tempeh, in a craftsman way, in the North of Spain, in the Basque country. Unfortunately in all of Spain we are only two people making those kind of products, even if slowly, slowly, people are asking us more and more for them every day. I have graduated in biology, and so have a background in what I am doing. Ive really found myself
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useful for the rest of the world, and enjoy my life and work... Id like to ask if there is any possibility of working for a short time (a summer or a month) is a place where I could learn how to make miso, tamari, natto, sufu, and soynuts. Address: Zuaitzo, Correria, 3901001 Vitoria-Gasteiz, Spain. Phone: 945/28 86 30. 539. Benk, Erich. 1986. Ueber die Sojabohne und aus ihr hergestellte Lebensmittel [Soybeans and soybean products]. Industrielle Obst- und Gemueseverwertung 71(9):390-91. Sept. [9 ref. Ger] Summary: Soybeans and their products are discussed briey, including their composition, manufacture, and uses. Products mentioned are green vegetable soybeans (unreife Sojabohnen), whole dry soybeans, soy protein, soy oil, lecithin, defatted soy our, soy protein concentrate, soy nuts, soy sprouts, soymilk (Sojamilch), tofu (Sojaquark), soy sauce (Sojasosse), and fermented tofu (SojabohnenKse, sufu). The application of German dairy product laws to soyfoods is discussed. Address: Chemiedirektor a. D., Beratender Lebensmittelchemiker, Robert-Steiger-Str. 110, 8909 Krumbach, Germany. 540. Aida, K; Ueda, Seinosuke; Murata, Kiku; Watanabe, Tadao. eds. 1986. Ajia no muen hakk daizu shokuhin [Proceedings of the Asian Symposium on Non-Salted Soybean Fermentation]. Japan: Takeshima Shigeru. 319 p. Held July 1985 in Tsukuba, Japan. Illust. (some color). No index. 27 cm. [400 ref. Eng; Jap] Summary: A pioneering symposium featuring tempeh and natto. About 70% of the book is in English and 30% in Japanese. A number of chapters are in Japanese with no English translations. Contains many typographical errors in the English sections. Those interested in the early history of natto and other East-Asian fermented foods will nd the discussion (in Japanese) on pages 174-78 to be very interesting. Address: Tsukuba, Japan. 541. Haytowitz, David B.; Matthews, Ruth H. 1986. Composition of foods: Legumes and legume products. Raw, processed, prepared. USDA Human Nutrition Information Service, Agriculture Handbook No. 8-16. 156 p. Dec. See p. 126-152. By Nutrition Monitoring Division. [29 ref] Summary: Data are presented for 133 legumes and legume products. Of these, only 53 were included in USDA Agriculture Handbook No. 8, published in 1963. The following soy-based foods are included: Simulated meat products (bacon, meat extender, and sausage), raw soybeans, cooked boiled soybeans, roasted soybeans, dry-roasted soybeans, soybean products: miso, natto, tempeh, full-fat soy our (raw, and roasted), defatted soy our, low-fat soy our, defatted raw soy meal, uid soy milk, soy protein concentrate, soy protein isolate, soy sauce (shoyu, tamari,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and HVP), raw tofu (rm {p. 147}, regular, dried-frozen/ koyadofu, and fried) [Note 1. Tofu is called tofu and at Soybean curd it says, see tofu. Note 2. Footnote 2 states that the calcium content of tofu curded with calcium sulfate is 683 mg/100 gm, compared with 205 mg/100 gm for tofu curded with nigari. As of May 1997 Soyfoods Center believes that both these values are far too high; the two gures should be about 159 mg/100 gm (range 128-168) and 45 mg/100 gm respectively], okara, salted and fermented tofu (fuyu). For each food the following information and number of values are given: Vertically: Proximate (7 values), Minerals (9), Vitamins (9), Lipids (Fatty Acids [Saturated (9), Monounsaturated (5), Polyunsaturated (7)], Cholesterol, Phytosterols), Amino acids (18). Horizontally: Amount in 100 gm edible portion (mean, standard error, number of samples), amount in edible portion of common measures of food (e.g. cup or 1 cup), amount in edible portion of 1 lb of food as purchased. Minerals include calcium, iron, magnesium, phosphorous, potassium, sodium, zinc, copper, and manganese (not aluminum). Vitamins include ascorbic acid, thiamin, riboavin, niacin, pantothenic acid, vitamin B-6, folacin, vitamin B-12, vitamin A. Amino acids include tryptophan, threonine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, cystine, phenylalanine, tyrosine, valine, arginine, histidine, alanine, aspartic acid, glutamic acid, glycine, proline, and serine. For Adzuki beans (raw, cooked boiled, canned sweetened, and Yokan {ykansugar-sweetened confection}) see p. 24-27. For peanuts (all types raw, cooked boiled, oil-roasted, dry-roasted, Spanish raw, Spanish oil-roasted, Valencia raw, Valencia oil-roasted, Virginia raw, Valencia oil-roasted) see p. 109-18. For peanut butter (chunk style, smooth style), defatted peanut, and low-fat peanut our, see p. 119-22. Address: USDA Human Nutrition Information Service. 542. Jong, Shung-Chang; Yuan, Gwo-Fang. 1986. Actinomucor taiwanensis sp. nov. for manufacture of fermented soybean food [sufu]. Mycotaxon 23:261-64. Dec. Also In: K Aida et al. eds. Proceedings of the Asian Symposium on Non-Salted Soybean Fermentation. Japan: Takeshima Shigeru. [Eng] Summary: The new mold is similar to Actinomucor elegans. The maximum growth temperature is 37C. Address: Mycology Dep., America Type Culture Collection, Rockland, Maryland. 543. Kozaki, Michio. 1986. Monsuun Ajia no hakk shokuhin [The fermented foods of monsoon Asia]. In: K Aida, et al. eds. 1986. Proceedings of the Asian Symposium on Non-Salted Soybean Fermentation. Japan: Takeshima
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Shigeru. 319 p. See p. 5-8. Held July 1985 at Tsukuba, Japan. [Jap] Summary: A general review, including many fermented foods not containing soy. Address: Dep. of Agriculture, Tokyo Univ. of Agriculture. 544. Product Name: Creamy Miso Dressing [Sesame, Mustard, or Vinaigrette]. Manufacturers Name: Simply Natural, Inc. Manufacturers Address: P.O. Box 295 (Evelyn and Gershel Avenues), Norma, NJ 08347. Date of Introduction: 1986. December. Ingredients: Sesame: Organic light miso, unrened sunower oil, ltered water, apple cider vinegar, barley malt, toasted sesame oil. Wt/Vol., Packaging, Price: 12 oz jar. How Stored: Shelf stable; refrigerate after opening. Nutrition: Sesame, Per ounce: Calories 86, fat 1.5 gm, sodium 136 mg. New ProductDocumentation: Spot in Vegetarian Times. 1987. March. p. 67. These feature mellow miso. Leaet. 1987. Shows Label. These dressings are made from the mellow white miso in which their Soft Tofu Cheese is fermented. Brochure. 1987. Oct. Discover the New Simply Natural and Rediscover Natural Cuisine. Introduces Soyalite (formerly Soft Tofu Cheese), Pasta Lite (formerly Tofu Pasta), and Miso Dressing. Explains why the names were changed and shows labels. Red on white. 4 pages. Ad in Vegetarian Times. 1988. May. p. 58. Everything Your Heart Desires. 545. Tsubaki, K. 1986. Historical survey of the studies on Mucorales in Asia. In: K Aida, et al. eds. 1986. Proceedings of the Asian Symposium on Non-Salted Soybean Fermentation. Japan: Takeshima Shigeru. 319 p. See p. 2830. Held July 1985 at Tsukuba, Japan. [Eng] Summary: This is a survey of the major species of mucorales which are useful in applied microbiology. Taxonomically, they are classied in the sub-division Zygomycotia of the division Eumycota. Names of the genera include Absidia, Mucor, and Rhizopus. They are included in the Phycomycetes in older textbooks. So far as I know, the rst investigation of Mucorales from Asia was made by a French mycologist, Calmette, who rst described an interesting species, Amylomyces rouxii, in 1882... His isolates came from the Chinese yeast. This species has been called Mucor rouxii in most textbooks so far. Two years later, in 1884, Eijkman considered this fungus to be a species of Mucor, but used a trinomial name, Mucor amylomyces rouxii. Then many other important species of Mucor have been published including, M. javanicus, M. praini, etc. In the case of Rhizopus, the rst species from Asia is Rhizopus japonicus so far which was isolated by Vuillemin in 1902. In Japan, studies of the mucoraceous fungi started by Saito in 1904.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU After that, Hanzawa reported a taxonomic study of Rhizopus in 1912 and 1914 describing twelve species. Hanzawas work was continued by many mycologists. Address: Dep. of Biological Science, Univ. of Tsukuba, Japan. 546. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1986. Preparation of tofuyo (fermented tofu) using Monascus fungus. In: K Aida, et al. eds. 1986. Proceedings of the Asian Symposium on NonSalted Soybean Fermentation. Japan: Takeshima Shigeru. 319 p. See p. 312. Poster session. Held July 1985 at Tsukuba, Japan. [Eng] Summary: Tofuyo is a fermented tofu product made in Okinawa. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01, Japan. 547. Sung, S.K.; Lee, C.M.; Young, J.D.; Chen, C.N. 1986. High levels of tyramine in some Chinese foodstuffs. Human Psychopharmacology 1(2):103-07. [17 ref]* Summary: Tyramine was assayed by high pressure liquid chromatography (HPLC) in 9 common Chinese foods including soy sauce, fermented soybean, fermented bean curd, red fermented bean curd, chili soybean paste, soybean paste, and preserved vegetables. Contents were highest in fermented soybean and fermented bean curd. Results are discussed in terms of hypertensive risk for patients taking monoamine oxidase inhibitors. Note: Websters Dictionary denes tyramine (derived from tyrosine + amine) as a phenolic amine C8H11NO that has a sympathomimetic action and is derived from tyrosine. It denes sympathomimetic as simulating sympathetic nervous action in physiological effect. Address: Dep. of Psychiatry, Chinese Univ. of Hong Kong, Shatin, N.T., Hong Kong. 548. Chiao, J.S. 1986. Modernization of traditional Chinese fermented foods and beverages. Mycologia Memoir No. 11. p. 37-53. Chap. 3. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang, eds. Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin. Berlin & Stuttgart: J. Cramer). [22 ref] Summary: Published in 1981 in Advances in Biotechnology 2:511-16. Contents: Introduction. Varieties of traditional Chinese fermented foods and beverages: Soy products include: Soy sauce (4-6 month fermentation), soy sauce by Gun-tou method (no wheat is used, 1 year fermentation, new batch concentrated for 1-2 months under the sun), soy paste, sufu, red sufu (with qu = chu = Chinese-style koji added), tou-si (made from black soybeans and salt, fermented with Aspergillus oryzae for 10-12 days). There are also many white spirit fermentations. Wine was made in China as far back as 4,000 years, and white spirits made their appearance in the 13th century. Li-shi-zheng of the Ming Dynasty gave a description of the distillation process in detail in his famous Ben-Chao-Gong-Mu. Nowadays the alcohol content ranges from 40-65%.
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In 1970 the San-jia Starch Factory in I-Chang, Hupeh, used liquid proteinase for a new soy sauce process using the waste water from starch processing, thus simplifying the ordinary soy sauce process. But this product was inferior in color, taste, and avor to regular soy sauce made by a solid substrate fermentation. In 1976 and 1979 the Experimental Plant of the Shanghai Grain and Oil Industry Co., by selecting mutant strains of Aspergillus oryzae having high proteinase potency, was able to get an improved soy sauce (though still not as avorful as regular soy sauce) using the liquid proteinase process. A owchart is shown. Address: Dep. of Microbiology, Shanghai Inst. of Plant Physiology, Academia Sinica, Shanghai, China. 549. Committee for Soybean (The). 1986. The Philippines recommends for soybeans. Los Baos, Laguna, Philippines: Philippine Council for Agriculture and Resources Research and Development. 111 p. Technical Bulletin Series No. 14A. Revision of 1976 edition. [51 ref. Eng] Summary: Written by The Soybean Committee (Dr. Florendo C. Quebral, a plant pathologist at UPLB, chairman), this work focuses on recent technologies for soybean production. A foreword by Ramon V. Valmayor, Executive Director of PCARRD, notes: The importance of soybean has been stressed continuously. To encourage its widespread production, the Ministry of Agriculture and Food (MAF) launched the Soybean Production Program in Mindanao. Likewise, PCARRD initiated and coordinated the implementation of Soybean Pilot Production Project in 1983 to demonstrate the feasibility of growing soybean protably in Luzon. Contents: Foreword. Acknowledgments. The Soybean Committee. Introduction. Production management. Marketing. Soybean cropping system. Crop protection. Seed production. Processing and utilization: Raw materials for industry, soybean as food. References. Appendixes. List of tables. Lists of gures. Table 1 shows soybean production in the Philippines from 1974 to 1985. Area in hectares grew from 2,780 ha in 1974 to a peak of 11,250 ha in 1976 and was 8,479 ha in 1985. Production grew from 2,214 tonnes in 1974 to a peak of 11,466 tonnes in 1982 and was 8,430 tonnes in 1985. Yield grew from 0.80 tonnes/ha in 1974 to a peak of 1.05 in 1982 and was 0.99 in 1985. Local production does not begin to supply local demand. In 1984 380,691 tonnes of soybeans and products were imported. Most of the imports were soybean meal. Table 2 shows imports and exports of tausi (salted, fermented soybeans), oil cake (huge imports), soy sauce (large exports), soy oil (rened; large imports), soybean paste, taho (soymilk curds, often sold topped with a little brown sugar), bean cheese (tokwa [tofu]), hypoallergenic soy food, crude soy oil. Page 50 shows all current uses of soybeans in the Philippines, and p. 51 gives the nutritional
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU composition of Philippine soyfoods. Note the terms Geerligs cheese (Tahu; 92.7% moisture and 2.9% protein), Soybean curd (Tahuri; 61.3% moisture and 11.4% protein), Fermented soybean cheese (Tausi; 51.5% moisture and 13.8% protein), and Soybean cheese (Tokwa; 77.0% moisture and 12.9% protein). Recipes are given for preparing soy sauce, miso, tahu (soymilk curds), tokwa (soybean cheese, or rm tofu), taosi (salted, fermented soybeans), soybean milk, and soybean coffee. Descriptions are given for sufu, tempeh, soy our and grits, soy protein concentrates and isolates. Note: In the section on nutritional composition, two words are incorrectly dened. The term Tahuri actually refers to tofu in brine, and tausi refers to salted, fermented soybeans. Address: PCARR. 550. Dietrich, Craig. 1986. Peoples China: a brief history. New York, NY, and Oxford, England: Oxford University Press. xv + 327 p. Plus 2 unnumbered pages of plates. Illust. Map. Index. 23 cm. [90 + 211 endnotes] Summary: An excellent, very balanced, concise and readable history of the Peoples Republic of China. Chapter 7, The Cultural Revolution in retreat: 19691976 contains a section titled Persisting radical inuence where we read (p. 228): In March and April 1975, both Zhang Chunqiao and Yao Wenyuan of the Shanghai Group published attacks on Dengs approach. Zhang warned against the bourgeoisie who assured Chinas youth that material incentives like stinky bean curd, smells awful but tastes good. Yao, too, decried material incentives. Near the front is an excellent two-page map of China, with each province and its capital labeled (in Wade-Giles romanization), plus major rivers, railroads, and the Great Wall. Address: Assoc. Prof. of History, Univ. of Southern Maine. 551. Hesseltine, C.W. 1986. Microorganisms involved in food fermentations in tropical Asia. In: Susono Saono and F.G. Winarno, eds. 1986. Proceedings of International Symposium on Microbiological Aspects of Food Storage, Processing and Fermentation in Tropical Asia. x + 344 p. See p. 189-204. Held 10-13 Dec. 1979 at Cisaru, Bogor, Indonesia. Illust. 24 cm. [18 ref] Summary: Three pioneers of the taxonomy of molds used in fermented foods were Drs. R. Nakazawa, K. Saito, and C. Thom. Fermentations can be classied as Homofermentations (only one species of microorganism is necessary to produce the product; e.g. natto, onchom, tempeh, fermented tofu), Heterofermentations (more than one is required; e.g. Chinese yeast, or ragi), Homomultifermentations (two or more strains of the same species are used together; e.g. miso, shoyu, soy yogurt). Tables show: (1) Representative strains of cultures in Oriental food fermentations: MisoAspergillus oryzae,
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A. sojae, Saccharomyces rouxii, Pediococcus halophilus. TempehRhizopus oligosporus. SufuActinomucor elegans, Mucor dispersus. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 552. Hesseltine, C.W.; Wang, Hwa L. 1986. Food fermentation research and development. Mycologia Memoir No. 11. p. 9-22. Chap. 1. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang, eds. Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin. Berlin & Stuttgart: J. Cramer). [13 ref] Summary: The following fermented soyfoods are discussed: Miso, shoyu, natto, hamanatto, sufu, tamari, ontjom, tempeh. Address: USDA/NRRC, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, Illinois 61604. 553. Horne, Kibbey M. 1986. Chinese food for the modern Marco Polo. San Francisco, California: Chinese Materials Center Publications. vii + 270 p. Plus 11 unnumbered leaves of plates. Illust. (color). Map (color). 19 cm. Series: Asian Library Series No. 43. [6 ref] Summary: This book is an attempt to present Chinese food as the Chinese view it. It is not a cookbook, but rather the kind of book that Marco Polo would have found very useful as he rst encountered the food of China. Page 6: The term putrid embraces, among other things, cheese (which most Chinese abominate as an inedible Western curiosity) and stinky bean curd, a Ningpo specialty which some Chinese love it and many others do not. Page 15. Another Ningpo specialty, specialty, which appeals to a much more limited circle of Chinese and almost no Westerners at all, is Stinky Bean Curd. This is fermented bean curd which smells rather like a stout cheese which has gone off. When cooked it disperses a strong odor in all directions and to considerable distance. Chapter 9, titled Meat, begins by discussing the meat radical (rou). It then notes (p. 68): There is one interesting case in which the entire meat character is used as the radical, and applied to something which is not meat at all, although it is a principal source of protein for the poorer Chinese: dou fu. It is used less frequently in terms like dou fu yi bean curd skin [yuba]. The term bean curd appears on 13 pages in this book. The character su means plain, as in the word sutsai vegetarian (p. 92). The English word vegetarian appears on 6 pages in this book. Three chapters near the end of the book are very interesting and useful. Each is a long table having four columns: Chinese character(s), Mandarin, English, and Cantonesebut in a different order for each chapter. The three chapters are: (1) Mandarin glossary (p. 173+), sorted alphabetically by the romanized Mandarin word. For example: 1 Cc, fu, curd, fu; or 1 Cc (Chinese character), nau, brains, nou; or 1 Cc, mau, hairy, mou. 2 Cc, ru fu, fermented bean curd, yu fu (p. 189, 243). (2) English glossary (p. 197+). (3) Cantonese glossary (p. 221-45).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU The author, a linguistic anthropologist, was educated at Choate, Harvard, West Point, Heidelberg and Georgetown. He has spent a fourth of his life overseas as an Army ofcer, traveler, and researcher. For the last twelve years he has been the director of International Programs for The California State University, one of the worlds largest university systems. A color photo on the rear cover shows the author. Address: California. 554. Hyun, Peter. 1986. Man sei!: the making of a Korean American. Honolulu, Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press. xiii + 186 p. Plus 3 unnumbered pages of plates. Illust. No index. 22 cm. Summary: Man sei! means Long live Korea. In this autobiographical sketch, the author describes what it was like growing up in occupied Korea under Japanese rule. Peter was born in Hawaii in 1906, but grew up in Seoul, Korea, where his father, the Reverend Soon Hyun, was one of the leaders of the Korean independence movement struggling against Japanese colonial rule. In Seoul, at age 12, he took part in the nonviolent March First (1919) uprising for independence and freedom; a year later, he and his family escaped to join his father in Shanghai. There, his father and other patriots, established the Korean Provisional Government in Exile. When Peter was age 17 the family moved to Hawaii. Page 142: He is discussing his life (at age 15) of hunger, poverty and cold in Nanking, China. Whenever Umma sent me a little money, I would go to the store and buy a jar of preserved tofusalted beancurdwhich I would take with me to the dining room. When the Chinese students nished eating and the table had been picked clean, I would order my precious jar of salted tofu. And because there was always some left-over rice, I could sit alone and leisurely eat three more bowls of rice, spiced with tofu. Page 31: In Korean, soybean sprouts are known as kongna-mul. Page 73: Bee-bim-pap is a traditional Korean dish made of rice mixed with marinated meat, bean sprouts, and pickled radish; it is seasoned with soy sauce and sesame oil. Page 89: They served us bowls of steaming rice gruel (jook) with soy sauce and roasted peanuts in separate dishes. That was how I survived. On the rear dust jacket is a photo of Peter Hyun and a brief biography. A longer biography on the next to last page, under About the author. Address: Oxnard, California. 555. Leneman, Leah. 1986. The international tofu cookery book. London and New York: Routledge & Kegan Paul. 122 p. Illust. by Megan Dickinson. Index. 20 cm. Summary: Contents: Introduction. Types of tofu readily available: Morinaga silken tofu, Japanese instant silken tofu (House brand, soya milk powder and a coagulant),
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medium tofu, Chinese tofu, converted Japanese tofu, rm tofu (and address of 4 makers of vacuum-packed rm tofu in UKCauldron Foods, The Regular Tofu Co., Pauls Tofu {organic}, and Bean Machine). More unusual forms of tofu: Fermented tofu, dried-frozen tofu, deep-fried tofu, bean curd sticks or sheets [yuba]. General notes: Quantities, tofu mayonnaise, soya yogurt, American measurements. Making tofu at home. Table of metric equivalents. British- and American-style dishes (More than 100 recipes). Mexicanstyle dishes. The Mediterranean. Asia. Desserts. A discussion of the author and her works appears on the half-title page at the front of the book. Address: 19 Leamington Terrace, Edinburgh EH10 4JP, Scotland. 556. Reddy, N.R.; Pierson, Merle D.; Salunkhe, D.K. eds. 1986. Legume-based fermented foods. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press. viii + 254 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. [585 ref] Summary: An overview with information on nutrition and processing of fermented soyfoods. Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Soy sauce. 3. Miso. 4. Sufu. 5. Natto. 6. Tempe. 7. Fermented soybean milk and other fermented legume milk products. 8. Oncom (fermented peanut press cake). 9. Idli. 10. Dhokla and Khaman. 11. Dawadawa. 12. Papads. 13. Other legume-based fermented foods. 14. Future of legume-based fermented foods. Address: 1-2. Dep. of Food Science & Technol., Virginia Polytechnic Inst. and State Univ., Blacksburg, VA; 3. Vice-Chancellor, Mahatma Phule Agricultural Univ., Rahuri, Maharashtra State, India. 557. Stidham, Martin. 1986. The fragrant vegetable: Simple vegetarian delicacies from the Chinese. Los Angeles, California: Jeremy P. Tarcher, Inc. x + 224 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. Summary: Chapter 3 (p. 57-84), titled Meat without bonesTofu, contains 3 preparatory techniques and 16 recipes. Chapter 4 (p. 85-98), titled More meat without bonesPressed tofu, contains two basic recipes for pressed and spiced pressed tofu plus 9 additional recipes. The highly odiferous stinking tofu (chou doufu) is made by fermenting tofu or pressed tofu, or allowing it to grow moldly, then deep-frying it. Usually eaten with a hot sauce, this is available at movable carts... (p. 58). The dense cakes are fermented to become tofu cheese (see Chapter 1) as well as stinking tofu... Chapter 5 (p. 99-126) titled Duck, chicken, and other specialties, rst discusses the basic ingredients in making these traditional meatlike products (Bean curd sheet [pressed tofu sheets], bean curd skin [yuba], and bean curd sheet noodles), then gives numerous recipes, many containing soy. Chapters on fried gluten, soups, and fruit and nut desserts follow. Soy sauce, green soybeans [green vegetable soybeans], soymilk, soy sprouts, and soy-pickled cucumbers are also mentioned. The author, a graduate of Northwestern University, lived
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU in East Asia for over 10 years, rst as a student at National Taiwan Univ. in the Graduate Inst. of Chinese Literature, and later as a translator of short stories, poetry, and novels. A long-standing interest in the cuisines of the region, especially vegetarian, has taken him into home, restaurant, and temple kitchens. He has studied privately with instructors from the areas well-known cooking schools, including Wei-Chuan and Pei Meis, besides being tutored in special techniques by tofu makers and manufacturers of other Chinese specialty food items. 558. Su, Yuan-Chi. 1986. Sufu. In: N.R. Reddy, M.D. Pierson, and D.K. Salunkhe, eds. 1986. Legume-Based Fermented Foods. Boca Raton, FL: CRC Press. viii + 254 p. See p. 69-83. Chap. 4. [28 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Method of preparation. Biochemical changes and composition. Nutritional quality. Toxicology. Conclusions. Address: Dean and Prof., College of Agriculture, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 559. Wang, H.L.; Fang, S.F. 1986. History of Chinese fermented foods. Mycologia Memoir No. 11. p. 23-35. Chap. 2. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang, eds. Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin. Berlin & Stuttgart: J. Cramer.) Previously published in 1981 in USDA Miscellaneous Publication FL-MS-333. [6 ref] Summary: Discusses the early history of numerous types of chu [ch] (similar to koji, with a substrate of wheat, barley, millet, and/or rice), chiang [jiang] (salted sauce), shi or toushi (fermented beans) [soy nuggets], chiang-you, tou-yu and shi-tche (the liquid from shi [soy nugget sauce]; It is a very dark but clear liquid and was the most popular seasoning in the sixth century), tou-fu-ru (fermented tofu or sufu), Lapa-tou (Mucor fermented beans), Mei-tou-tcha (Meitauza, fermented okara), tsu (vinegar), yan-tsai (salted vegetables). The three main sources of early information on fermented soyfoods are: (1) Shih chi [pinyin: Shiji by Sima Qian] (90 B.C., historical record). (2) Chi-min yao-shu [pinyin: Qimin yaoshu, by Jia Sixie, AD 544, Important arts for the peoples welfare] (+6th century agricultural encyclopedia). (3) Pen-tsao kang-mu [pinyin: Bencao gangmu, by Li Shizhen, AD 1596, The great pharmacopoeia] (16th century botanical encyclopedia). Concerning shi or tou-shi [soy nuggets]: The rst written record appeared in the Shi-chi (the historical records) written by Szuma Chien in the second century B.C., which stated that shi as sold next to salt, indicating shi was already a popular food seasoning. In the Qimin yaoshu (6th century AD) the method of preparing shi is described in detail. Temperature is said to be the most important factor in making shi, and June was found to be the best month for preparing this fermented seasoning. A detailed description of the process is given. The Bencao gangmu (16th century AD) described
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many types of shi made at different localities, and give the medicinal use of each. In more recent times, shi can be classied into three general types. (1) Aspergillus oryzae mold type, which is the traditional type, also known as tou-shi, and is the most common type, prepared as described above, but using pure cultures of Aspergillus oryzae. Today the fermentation is carried out at 25C in wooden barrels. In some areas, the washed, molded beans are mixed with 16-18% salt and fermented at 35C for 30 days. (2) Mucor mold type, which is usually made in Szechuan in wooden trays. The process is described. The mold is Mucor racemosus Fresenius. (3) Bacillus bacteria type, called shui-tou-shi [pinyin: shui-douchi], is probably the same product as natto in Japan [except that it is salted]. To make shui-tou-shi: Clean, soak, and boil soybeans until soft. Place in a cloth bag and cover with straw [an excellent natural source of B. subtilis]. After incubation for 1-2 days at 25-30C the soybeans will be covered with viscous substances. The quality of the product is ascertained by the stickiness of the beans. Mix the sticky soybeans are with minced ginger and salt, then pack tightly into jars, and age for one week. They are now ready to consume. The organism responsible for this fermentation has been identied as Bacillus species. Note: Is the third type salted? If it is, it would seem to be an intermediate form between tou-shi (soy nuggets, salted) and natto (unsalted). If it is not, it would seem to be Chinese natto. Address: 1. USDA/NRRC, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, Illinois 61604; 2. Inst. of Microbiology, Academia Sinica, Beijing, China. 560. Wang, H.L.; Hesseltine, C.W. 1986. Glossary of indigenous fermented foods. Mycologia Memoir No. 11. p. 317-44. Chap. 18. (C.W. Hesseltine and Hwa L. Wang, eds. Indigenous Fermented Food of Non-Western Origin. Berlin & Stuttgart: J. Cramer). [29 ref] Summary: The section titled Fermented Legume Products denes chao (Vietnamese fermented tofu), chiang-chu (Chinese koji), chou-toufu and chou-toufu-ru (fermented tofu), Damsuejang and doenjang (Korean miso), furu, sufu, hon-fan or red sufu (fermented tofu), in-shi (Fermented black soybeans from China [soy nuggets]), inyu (Type of Chinese soy sauce made from black soybeans), kanjang (Korean soy sauce), kenima [sic, kinema], ketjap or kecap (Indonesian soy sauce from black soybeans), meitauza or mei-tou-cha (fermented okara), meju (maiju or maeju; Korean soybean koji), natto, oncom (onchom or oncom), see-iu (see-iew; Thai soy sauce made from whole soybeans); soy sauce, soybean paste, tahuri (tahuli; Filipino fermented tofu. See sufu), tao-chieo (tao-jiao; Thai miso), taohu-yi (Fermented tofu from Thailand. See sufu), taokoan, tempe (many types), thua-kab (dry thua-nao), thua-merk (wet and cooked thua-nao), thua-nao (Thai natto), tosufu (see sufu), toufu-ru (fermented tofu), tsue-fan (tsui-fan, chee fan;
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU fermented tofu). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (July 2011) that contains the term Fermented black soybeans or Fermented black soybeans from China, or that uses these terms to refer to in-shi. Under Fermented Cereal-Legume Products we nd: chiang, chiang-yu (chau-yu, Chinese soy sauce), fermented soybeans (soy nuggets), hamanatto, kochujang (kochu chang), miso, shoyu, tamari, taotjo (tao-tjo, tao dji; Fermented soybeans from Indonesia or Thailand [No! Taotjo is Indonesian-style miso and tao dji is Indonesian soy nuggets]), tao-tjung or tou-chiang (chiang), tao-yu (tou-yu; Chinese soy sauce), tauco (taocho, taoco, taucho; Indonesian miso), tou-pan-chiang (Chinese fava bean miso), tou-shi (toushih; Chinese soy nuggets), toyo (Filipino soy sauce). Note 2. This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the word taocho to refer to Indonesian-style miso. Fermented Vegetable Products include: Chiang-tsai (chiang-tsay; Vegetables in China pickled in chiang or soy sauce or tien-mien-chiang), miso-zuke. Address: USDA/ NRRC, 1815 N. University St., Peoria, Illinois 61604. 561. Irish Times (Dublin).1987. Plenty of products on the boil. Feb. 17. p. 17. Summary: The Food Technology Business Unit in the Food Centre at Raheen is a place where people can come and try out their food ideas, while at the same time receiving basic business training. About 20 people are presently working on projects. Lin Thakker, who trained as a nurse in England before coming to Limerick with her husband six years ago, is supplying the public in Limerick with foods she ate growing up in Japan. Her rst product was tofu, a fermented bean curd [sic], which has a mild avor and which can be used instead of cheese. She rst had the idea when she saw the high price of imported tofu. Now she also makes fresh soya milk, vegetarian pizzas and vegetarian burgers. Se sells all of these to hotels and fastfood outlets as well as to wholefood shops. Note: Tofu is also occasionally called soybean curd. It is not fermented, and is very different from fermented tofu, which is rarely found in Japan. 562. Snyder, Harry E.; Kwon, T.W. 1987. Soybean utilization. New York, NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold Co. xii + 346 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. An AVI Book. [381 ref] Summary: Contents. Preface. 1. Production, marketing, and sources of information: Introduction, agricultural production, marketing, sources of information. 2. Morphology and composition: Morphology, chemical composition. 3. Processing of soybeans: Preparation, aking, expellers, solvent extraction, oil rening, protein products. 4. Quality criteria for soy products: Protein and oil products.
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5. Functional properties of soy proteins: Interactions of soy proteins with water, interactions of soy proteins with lipid, foaming, commentary on functionality. 6. Nutritional attributes of soybeans and soybean products: Inherent attributes of soybeans, changes due to processing. 7. Oriental soy food products: Traditional nonfermented soybean food products, traditional fermented soybean food products. 8. Soybean-supplemented cereal grain mixtures: Protein-rich food mixtures containing soy ours, composite ours containing soy our, cereal blends containing soybeans. 9. Soy protein food products: Baked goods, meat products, dairy products, other foods containing soy protein. 10. Soybean oil food products: Salad and cooking oils, mayonnaise, and prepared salad dressings, shortenings, margarines and related products, soybean lecithin products. 11. Grades, standards, and specications for soybeans and their primary products: Grades of soybeans, specications for soybean meals and ours, trading specications for soybean oils, specications for lecithins, standards for the use of soy protein products in other foods. References in each chapter. Glossary. This book is well written (though largely a repetition of previous works) in the area of modern soy protein products. It is weak and poorly researched in the area of Oriental Soy Food Products, which comprises only 1 chapter (22 pages) of the total, making the book unbalanced. The author of this chapter seems to be almost completely unaware of the many major developments in the Western world during the past 10 years. Note the following Korean soyfood terms: Fresh soybean = Put Kong. Toasted soy powder = Kong Ka Ru. Soy sprouts = Kong Na Moal. Soymilk = Kong Kook or Doo Yoo. Yuba (Soymilk lm) = no name. Tofu (Soy curd) = Doo Bu. Tempeh (Fermented Whole Soybeans) = no name. Natto = Chung Kook Jang. Soy sauce = Kan Jang. Miso (Soy Paste) = Doen Jang. Fermented tofu (Fermented Soy Curd) = no name. Fermented okara (fermented soy pulp) = no name. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 2005) that uses the term Toasted soy powder to refer to roasted soy our. Address: 1. Prof., Food Science Dep., Univ. of Arkansas, Fayetteville, AR; 2. Principal Research Scientist, Div. of Biological Science & Engineering, Korea Advanced Inst. of Science and Technology, Seoul, South Korea. 563. Howe, Joyce. 1987. In Mahs kitchen in Queens, the Cantonese food was genuine. New York Times. Oct. 14. p. C6. Summary: Yu Kin Seid is the mother of Joyce Howe, the writer. Her mother (Mah) made delicious, authentic Cantonese meals; dinners of four or ve dishes eaten with rice, the menus including pepper steak, steamed sea bass with ginger and scallions, string beans with fermented bean curd and pork,...
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Recipes include: Pepper steak (with 3 tablespoons fermented black beans). Lobster Cantonese (with 4 tablespoons fermented black beans). 564. Reed, M.H. 1987. New Chinese entry in Eastchester: Dining out. New York Times. Oct. 18. p. 936 (WC_29). Summary: This is a review of the Chinese restaurant Lotus King (30 Mill Road, Eastchester). Among the recommended dishes are: Sauted pompano in bean paste and bean curd sauce. Also good is the house soup, full of seafood and bean curd [tofu]. And Sauted spinach, embellished with a bit of fermented bean curd, a lovely touch. 565. Product Name: Firm Tofu, Regular Tofu, Smoked Tofu, Fermented Tofu. Manufacturers Name: Full of Beans Soyfoods. Manufacturers Address: Castle Precincts, Castle Ditch Lane, Lewes, East Sussex, BN7 1XH, England. Date of Introduction: 1987. New ProductDocumentation: Soya Bluebook. 1987. p. 96. 566. Beuchat, Larry R. 1987. Food and beverage mycology. 2nd ed. New York, NY: Van Nostrand Reinhold. xiii + 661 p. Illust. Index. 23 cm. [20+ soy ref] Summary: Contents: Contributors. Foreword. Preface. Classication of food and beverage fungi, by E.S. Beneke and K.E. Stevenson. Relationships of water activity to fungal growth, by Janet E.L. Corry. Fruits and fruit products, by D.F. Splittstoesser. Vegetables and related products, by R.E. Brackett. Meats, poultry, and seafoods, by James M. Jay. Dairy products, by Elmer H. Marth. Field and storage fungi, by C. M. Christensen. Bakery products, by J.G. Ponte, Jr. and C. C. Tsen. Traditional fermented food products, by L.R. Beuchat. Alcoholic beverages, by G. G Stewart. Edible mushrooms, by W.A. Hayes. Poisonous mushrooms, by Donald M. Simons. Fungi as a source of protein, by A. J. Sinskey and C.A. Batt. Fungal enzymes and primary metabolites used in food processing, by R. Bigelis and L.L. Lasure. Mycotoxins, by N.D. Davis and U.L. Diener. Methods for detecting mycotoxins in food and beverages, by L.B. Bullerman. Methods for detecting fungi in foods and beverages, by B. Jarvis and A.P. Williams. Appendix. Regulatory action levels for mold defects in foods. Chapter 9, Traditional fermented food products, has a section on koji and a long section on fermented soybean foods that discusses: Shoyu, miso, natto (incl. itohiki-natto, yukiwari-natto, and hama-natto / hamanatto; called tu su by the Chinese and tao-si by the Filipinos), sufu, meitauza, and tmp [tempeh] Tables show: (9.1) Some fermented foods of fungal origin. For each food is given: Product name, geography, substrate, microorganisms, nature of product, and product use. Soy-related products include: Chee fan, Chinese
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yeast, Hamanatto, kecap, kinema, ketjap, meitauza, meju, miso (incl. chiang, jang, doenjang, tauco, tao chieo), natto, soybean milk, soy sauce (incl. chiang-yu, shoyu, toyo, kanjang, kecap, see-ieu), sufu (tahuri, tao-kaoan, tao-juyi), tao-si, taotjo, tauco and tmph. Address: Dep. of Food Science, Agric. Exp. Station, Univ. of Georgia, Experiment, GA 30212. 567. Campbell-Platt, Geoffrey. 1987. Fermented foods of the world: A dictionary and guide. London and Boston: Butterworths. xxiii + 291 p. 26 cm. [25 soy ref] Summary: The author classies fermented foods into 9 groups: Beverages, Cereal products, dairy products, sh products, fruit and vegetable products, legumes, meat products, starch crop products, and miscellaneous products. Fermented legume products are particularly important in the diets of East Asia, Southeast Asia, and the Indian subcontinent. He has sections on many fermented soyfoods: Dawadawa, hama-natto, kenima [sic, kinema], miso, natto, tempe (incl. tempeh, tempe bengook, tempe bongkrek, tempe gembus [okara tempeh], tempe lamtoro, tempe mata kedele), and sufu (incl. teou-fu-ru). He lists major areas consumed, related terms, how consumed, types, how produced, microbiology and biochemistry, and a few key references. His research began in Ghana with dawadawa made from the African locust bean. Address: National College Prof. of Food Technology, Dep. of Food Science & Technology, Univ. of Reading, Reading, Berkshire, UK. 568. Nichterlein, Karin. 1987. Huelsenfruechte [Legumes]. Bonn, Germany: AID (Auswertungs- und Informationsdienst fuer Ernaehrung, Landwirtschaft und Forsten). 20 p. Illust. 21 cm. [10 ref. Ger] Summary: The section on soybeans (p. 14-16) discusses soya oil, lecithin, soybean meal, soy protein concentrates, soya bread, low-fat soy our, Sojamark (Soya meat), TVP, soya milk, tofu, soy sauce (shoyu, tamari), miso, tempeh, sufu (fermented tofu), natto, and soy sprouts. Address: Institut fuer Panzenbau und Panzenzuechtung I, Giessen, Germany. 569. Singleton, Paul; Sainsbury, Diana. 1987. Dictionary of microbiology and molecular biology. 2nd ed. Chichester, New York, Brisbane, Toronto & Singapore: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. xii + 1019 p. Illust. 25 cm. A Wiley-Interscience Publication. Summary: Contains entries for: fermentation, fermented foods, fermenter (fermentor), miso, natto, nitrogen xation (dinitrogen xation), ogi, oncom, shoyu (see Soy sauce), soy paste (see Miso), soy sauce (shoyu), sufu, tempeh, tofu (an intermediate in Sufu production). 570. Watanabe, Tokuji. 1987. Chemistry and technology of tofu and its derived products. In: Fujiharu Yanagida, ed.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 1987. Traditional Foods and Their Processing in Asia. Tokyo: NODAI Research Institute, Tokyo Univ. of Agriculture. vii + 235 p. See p. 110-21. [8 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Fresh tofu and its production: Process of tofu making, equipment, kinugoshi tofu, new raw materials for making tofu, new types of tofu. Aburage and other deep-fried tofu. Kori-tofu and its production: Process of making kori-tofu, large-scale production, equipment, distributing the product, utilization of by-products. Local varieties of tofu: Rokujo tofu, tsuto-dofu, tofuyo [fermented tofu]. Conclusion. Address: Faculty of Home Economics, Kyoritsu Womens Univ. 571. Amoy Industries (International) Ltd. 1987? Amoy: We bring the tastes of China to the world. Hong Kong. 16 p. Undated. 28 cm. Catalog. [Eng] Summary: This attractive color brochure, with a globe and carved ivory dragon ball on the cover, presents Amoy and its products. The company began as one small factory in the southern Chinese port of Amoy, making only soya sauce. An old photo shows that factory, with many earthenware crocks of soy sauce fermenting outdoors. Amoy is now one of the largest manufacturers of exportable oriental food in Hong Kong. Amoy has an afliation with Pillsbury including Burger King and Haagen-Dazs. Color photos (p. 6-7) show four of Amoys soy sauce products (Gold label lo chau; Silver label lo chau; Gold label sang chau; and Silver label sang chau), and of many traditional Chinese earthenware soy sauce fermentation crocks. Photos also show Amoy black bean sauce, Yellow bean sauce, fermented tofu. Plus non-soy Royal Dragon wonton, spring roll, shaomai, and dimsum combination. Address: 11-15 Dai Fu Street, Tai Po Industrial Estate, Tai Po, Hong Kong. Phone: 651-6633. 572. Chou, Cheng-Chun; Ho, F-M.; Tsai, C-S. 1988. Effects of temperature and relative humidity on the growth of and enzyme production by Actinomucor taiwanensis during sufu pehtze preparation. Applied and Environmental Microbiology 54(3):688-92. March. [20 ref. Eng] Summary: Highest yields of protease and lipase were found after 60 hours incubation at 97% relative humidity and 25C. Highest yield of alpha- amylase was observed after 48 hours incubation at 96-97% relative humidity and 30C, and the highest amount of alpha-galactosidase was observed at 35C and 96 relative humidity after 60 hours of growth. Results suggest that temperature and humidity should be controlled at 25-30C and around 97%, respectively, during the commercial preparation of sufu pehtze. Address: Graduate Inst. of Food Science & Technology, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 573. Pecjak, Marinka. 1988. Soja v kulinariki [Soybeans in the kitchen]. Ljubljana, Yugoslavia: Feniks. 138 p. Illust.
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Plus 16 pages of color plates showing recipes. 21 x 30 cm. [Slv] Summary: Features 300 recipes that use soybeans and soyfoods. Contents: Introduction: In the beginning there was the soybean, almost anything can be made from soya (a diagram shows many food and non-food products), soya is concentrated, soybeans in cuisine, how to use these recipes. Whole soybeans (p. 17): Recipes for coffee, different kinds of spreads, salads, soups, green soybeans with rice, dips with whole soybeans, soybeans with mushrooms, patties, soybean roast, sausages made of whole soybeans, stuffed duck, stuffed trout. Soybean akes and textured proteins (p. 40): Spread, party balls, lled bread, soups, pancakes, Australian pie, Buckwheat with akes, akes in mushroomy sauce, baked potatoes, stuffed cabbage leaves, chilled stuffed tomatoes, stuffed roasted peppers, stuffed eggplant. Soymilk and dairylike products (p. 74): Various spreads, soups and salads with herbs, pancakes, baked potatoes, baked noodles, soy pudding, soymilk ice cream, avocado milk. Soy our and semolina (p. 111): Soy noodles, pasta, pancakes, sh balls, soy bread. Soy sprouts (p. 122): Soups, salads, sprouts with potatoes, chicken with sprouts and wine, pork with sprouts. Soy sauce and other forms of fermented soybeans (p. 128): Chart showing fermented soy products (incl. miso, tempeh, sufu, natto), salads, soups, chicken with sprouts and soy sauce, meat with fermented black soybeans, roast cutlets, Hoisin dip. 574. Wollner, Joel. 1988. Soy-based cheesesConcerns for the consumer. Can a traditional product be patented. Soya Newsletter (Bar Harbor, Maine). March/April. p. 2. Summary: In this letter to the editor, the writer is concerned about two issues raised in the article titled Soy Cheese Market (Soya Newsletter, Jan/Feb. 1988). He wonders to what extent the present success of soy cheese in the natural foods marketplace is based on consumers lack of awareness that casein is a dairy product. His own informal survey, conducted shortly after Soya Kaas was rst introduced and already nding widespread acceptance, found very few consumers who knew that casein is derived from milk. In fact, over 90% thought Soya Kaas was strictly vegetarian, containing no milk-derived ingredients. He is also shocked that Simply Natural has patented a product (named Soyalite) made by fermenting fresh tofu in miso and discovered by accident. This process is well known and practiced by thousands of people all over the United States, and has been since the late 1970s. I rst learned of miso-pickled tofu (as we called it) in 1978, while manager at Erewhon Natural Foods retail store in Boston [Massachusetts]. One of our employees had learned the process while studying with Noburo Muramoto, a teacher of Oriental food-crafting in Escondido, California. Her miso-
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU pickled tofu was a big hit among the Erewhon staff, and we began selling it ready-to-eat in the store and published the recipe in our weekly consumer newsletter. Soon after, misopickled tofu became a favorite dish among Bostons diverse natural foods community, and found a place in the menus of local natural foods restaurants. Address: Director, Mitoku USA Inc., New York. 575. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1988. Das TofuBuch: Herstellung, Verwendung, Ernaehrungswert, Rezepte [The book of tofu: Preparation, uses, nutritional value, recipes]. Munich, West Germany: Goldmann Verlag. 384 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 18 cm. [Ger] Summary: A pocket book edition of the original 1980 German edition of The Book of Tofu. Contains 300 recipes. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 576. Washington Post.1988. First, dene terms, then start cooking. Sept. 14. p. E4. Summary: Ong chai (water spinach, empty heart): Distinguished by its crunchy hollow stems and soft pointy leaves, it tastes like mild spinach and is often served Cantonese-style stir-fried with garlic (and sometimes fermented bean curd). Recipes include: Madhur Jaffreys bean curd with Chinese parsley (which calls for pound medium-rm bean curd, cut into 3/4-inch cubes and 1 tablespoon Chinese thin soy sauce). 577. Prez, Oswaldo. 1988. Quesos aejos de soya: Cuatro colores de quesos exticos de la China [Soy cheeses that are aged: Four colors of exotic cheeses from China]. La Era Agricola (Merida, Venezuela). Dec. p. 10-11. [5 ref. Spa] Summary: Describes fermented tofu, its preparation, and four different types. Address: Granja Tierra Nueva, Aldea San Luis, La Azulita, C.P. 5102, Estado Merida, Venezuela. 578. Beddows, C.G. 1988. The old fashioned way with soya. Food Science & Technology Today 2(1):12-15. [6 ref]* Summary: The following soybean products are described briey: soymilk, bean curd, tofu, tempeh, natto, sufu, miso, shoyu, and yuba. Protein yields are given for a range of plant crops versus milk and beef, e.g. soybeans 3500 kg/ha/annum versus 75 kg/ha/annum for beef. Recipes are included for miso cream cheese dip and deep fried tofu and miso soup. The marked rise in consumption of soybean products in the USA in recent years is noted. Address: Dep. of Applied Sciences, Leeds Polytechnic, Leeds LS1 3HE, England. 579. Anderson, Eugene N. 1988. The food of China. New Haven, Connecticut: Yale University Press. xvi + 313 p. Index. 24 cm. [380 ref] Summary: Contents: Preface. Acknowledgments.
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Chronology of food and agriculture in China. 1. The natural environment. 2. Prehistory and the dawn of civilization. 3. The crucial millennium: Chou through Han. 4. Food from the West: Medieval China. 5. Denitive shaping of the food system: Sung and the conquest dynasties. 6. Involution: Late imperial China. 7. The climax of traditional agriculture. 8. Chinese foodstuffs today. 9. Some basic cooking strategies. 10. Regions and locales. 11. Traditional medicinal values of food. 12. Food in Society. Appendix: Dinner at the Ngs. Soybeans and soyfoods are mentioned as follows: North China is the native home of the soybean (p. 3). Soybeans seem to have been introduced to China in about 1000 B.C., but they were not popularized until the early Eastern Chou period (Ho 1975). Called, shu, they seem to have come from the Jung people, northern and northeastern neighbors of the Chinese, who may have been Tungusic or Altaic, and were perhaps related to or descended from the Hungshan. Domesticated soybeans are descended from wild soybeans (p. 29). Fan Sheng-chih wrote an agricultural manual in the rst century B.C.; it survives in extensive fragments quoted in later agricultural works. This manual mentions the Nine Staples: wheat, barley, millet, glutinous millet, spiked millet, soybeans, rice, hemp, and small beans (Vigna spp.) (p. 50). The art of fermenting soybeans was perfected sometime in the late Chou period, or perhaps even as late as the very early Han. Thereafter, Han texts devote much space to saltpreserved soybeans, called tou shih (or shih), the tausi of modern Cantonese cooking. Chiang, fermented sauce, was made from beans, but also from meat and elm products (p. 51). During the late Southern Sung, Wu Tzu-mu coined the famous phrase: the things that people cannot do without every day are rewood, rice, oil, salt, soybean sauce, vinegar, and tea (Freeman 1977, p. 151). By the Sung, chiang had come to refer unequivocally to soy sauce; as late as the Tang, it would probably have been understood, at least in literary contexts, to refer to a variety of fermented foods (p. 82). Bean curd or tou fu (Japanese tofu) was rst mentioned in the early Sung; its invention was attributed to Liu An of the Han Dynasty, but this is preposterous. In fact, tofu was invented in the late Tang or early Sungpossibly by Taoists and/or people from the Huainan region, who then ascribed it, out of a sort of respect, to Liu An, the Taoist prince of Huainan (B.W.-C. Young, pers comm). Buddhists quickly took over the food as a good substitute for meat and for dairy foods... Soybean curd is also fermented; the rm tofu cubes are packed in brine and sold. They constitute the Chinese equivalent of a cheese and are apt to be overpowering, reminiscent of strong German hand cheese [Handkse, a German regional sour milk cheese]. They are graphically
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU known as chou tou fu (stinking bean curd). Only the very stoutest of heart eat them and then only in small quantities. Also discusses: Vegetarian cooking (p. 66, 86, 118, 150, 196, 204, 249). Vegetarianism came to China with Buddhism during the Tang dynasty. Fish farming (p. 103, 129). Note: Eugene Newton Anderson was born in 1941. Address: Dep. of Anthropology, Univ. of California, Riverside, CA 92521. 580. Cost, Bruce. 1988. Asian ingredients: Buying and cooking the staple foods of China, Japan and Southwest Asia. New York, NY: William Morrow & Co. 333 p. Illust. Index. 27 cm. [39 ref] Summary: Soy related: Soybean sprouts and recipe (p. 86). Beans, incl. soybeans (p. 146-50). Asian dairy (p. 186-87): The soybean and the coconut (incl. bean curd, doufu-nao, fermented bean curd / fu-ru, molded bean curd / chou doufu, dried bean curd / dou-fu gan, and bean curd skin [yuba]. Soybean milk. Soybean sauces, condiments and pastes (p. 195-211): Salted and fermented black beans with recipes for Roast chicken with black beans stuffed under the skin, and Soft-shell crabs with ginger, lemon, and black beans (Fermented black beans, often avored with bits of ginger and sometimes orange peel, are usually sold in 8-ounce plastic bags. Acceptable brands: Mee Chun or Koon Chun Sauce Factory. Earthier and probably more classic are the Yang Jiang Preserved Beans (with ginger) from Kwangtung, China), bean sauce (other names: Yellow bean sauce, brown beans sauce, bean paste, jiang; two types are with the beans whole or ground), hot bean sauce / paste with recipe, hoisin sauce, sweet bean sauce (made with soybeans [probably tian mian jiang, p. 202], Taiwan), soy sauce (Chinese, Japanese, tamari; Highly recommended light soy sauce: Pearl River Bridge. Highly recommended dark: Pearl River Bridge Mushroom Soy, avored with straw mushrooms), Javas ketjap and other soy sauces miso with recipe, yellow miso (Shinshu miso), white miso (shiro miso, Kyoto shiro miso, sweet white miso), red miso (aka miso), Hatcho miso [soybean miso], barley miso (mugi miso), fermented bean curd (white or red; also called preserved bean curd, wet bean curd, bean cheese, dou-fu ru or fu-ru {Mandarin}, fu yu {Cantonese}) with two recipes). Red fermented bean curd is described on pages 210 (also called red bean cheese), 211, and 283 (together with red rice). Concerning ketjap (p. 206): Tomato ketchup, although it may seem to be of Asian origin, may or may not come from a family of Asian pickled products. But the word ketchup is clearly of Asian origin. [Note: The modern Indonesian word for soy sauce is kecap / ketjap / kechap.] It comes from the Malay kechap, which apparently derives from the ke-chiap of a southern Chinese dialect (Amoy); both of these refer to the kind of briny liquid preserves that include sh and soy sauces. Throughout most of Southeast Asia, sh sauces are
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the standard condiment, in Indonesia (incl. Java) soy sauce is more widely used. Sweet Indonesian soy sauce (ketjap manis), which is very widely used, is traditionally sweetened with palm syrup and seasoned with garlic, star anise, salam leaves, and galangal. Also discusses: Seaweed (p. 165-70): Kelp (Laminaria), laver (Porphyra), wakame, dashi, hair vegetable / black moss / hairlike vegetable (China; Gracilaria verrucosa), agar-agar. Monosodium glutamate (p. 247) Bruce Cost was born in 1945. A photo and brief biography appears on the inside rear dust jacket. Address: [San Francisco, California]. 581. Hesseltine, C.W. 1988. Transfer of food fermentation technology. In: M.F. Moyal, ed. 1988. Diet and Life Style. New Technology. John Libbey Eurotext Ltd. See p. 159-65. [10 ref] Summary: Describes examples of successful transfer of new technology, especially with Oriental fermented foods, such as tempeh, miso, and sufu. Address: 5407 Isabell, Peoria, Illinois 61614. 582. Okada, Noriyuki. 1989. Role of microorganisms in tempeh manufactureIsolation of vitamin B-12 producing bacteria. JARQ (Japan Agricultural Research Quarterly) 22(4):310-16. March. [12 ref. Eng] Summary: The vitamin B-12 content of tempeh made in Indonesia was found to be 4.6 micrograms (mcg) per 100 gm fresh weight, much higher than any other vegetarian food tested. But this was based on one sample transported slowly from Indonesia to Japan and its smell was no good when the value was measured. A sample brought quickly from Indonesia with good smell contained 0.7 mcg/100 gm. A sample prepared in Japan with tempeh starter from Indonesia contained only 0.05 mcg. And tempeh prepared in Japan with Rhizopus oligosporus NRRL 2710 contained 0.03 to 0.06 mcg/100 gm. Other vegetarian foods containing signicant amounts of vitamin B-12 were thua-nao (Thailand) 1.5 mcg and fermented tofu (Singapore, also called Sufu) 1.1 mcg. Flesh-based foods with a high B-12 content included Ka-pi shrimp paste (Thailand) 5.3 mcg, fermented shrimp (Thailand) 2.5 mcg, and sh sauce, 3 month fermentation (Thailand) 2.4 mcg. The vitamin B-12 in vegetarian foods is produced by the fermentation process and it increases during fermentation. Flesh foods contain their own B-12. The daily requirement of vitamin B-12 for adults is estimated to be 3 mcg. Bacteria that produced vitamin B-12 in tempeh were isolated and identied. The most prolic producer was Klebsiella pneumoniae, which had a maximum relative B-12 productivity of 1350. All prolic producers were members of the genus Klebsiella but some Bacillus species also produced B-12. The author suggests that intraspecic cell fusion techniques might be used to transfer this ability
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU to Bacillus natto, the natto bacterium, which is presently unable to produce vitamin B-12. Address: Dep. of Applied Microbiology, National Food Research Inst., Tsukuba, Ibaraki 305, Japan. 583. Karta, Susani K. 1989. Traditional Chinese soyfood. In: T.H. Applewhite, ed. 1989. Proceedings of the World Congress on Vegetable Protein Utilization in Human Foods and Animal Feedstuffs. Champaign, IL: American Oil Chemists Society. xii + 575 p. See p. 382-87. [18 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Variables in manufacturing tofu: Soybean variable, processing variable, maceration and extraction (soaking and grinding) stages, ltration and heating stages, coagulation stages, types and concentration of coagulants used in tofu manufacturing. Tofu products. Tables: (1) Chinese nonfermented soy food products. Five columns show: Food items, Chinese names, organisms used, description, uses. The soy foods are: Fresh green soybeans (mao-tou). Toasted soy powder (tou-fen). Soy sprouts (huang-tou-ya). Soy milk (tou-chiang). Soy milk lm / yuba (tou-fu-pi). Soybean curd (tou-fu). (2) Chinese fermented soy food products. Five columns (same as table 1) The soy foods are: Fermented whole soybeans (tou-shih). Soy sauce (chiang-yu). Soy paste (chiang). Fermented tofu (so-fu [sic]). Actinomucor or Mucor molds are used. Description: Creamy cheese, mild avor, salty. Uses: Relish, also cooked with meat or vegetable. (3) 1987 consumption of soybeans as foods in Asian countries. The results are presented here in descending order of per capita consumption: Per capita soybean consumption, country (population), total soybean consumption in 1,000 tonnes. 13.3 kg/capita, Taiwan (19.6 million), 260,000 tonnes. 9.3 kg/capita, Japan (122.2 million), 1,141,000 tonnes. 9.0 kg/capita, Indonesia (175 million), 1,575,000 tonnes. 7.8 kg/capita, South Korea (42.1 million), 330,000 tonnes. 7.7 kg/capita, Singapore (2.6 million), 20,000 tonnes. 6.9 kg/capita, China (1,062 million), 7,325,000 tonnes. 3.4 kg/capita, Malaysia (55 million), 55,000 tonnes. 2.2 kg/capita, Thailand (53.6 million), 118,000 tonnes. 0.3 kg/capita, Philippines (61.5 million), 18,000 tonnes. (4) Nutritional composition of traditional nonfermented foods: Fresh green soybeans, toasted soy powder, soy sproutsraw, soy milk, soy milk lm / yuba, tofu (Source: Food Composition Table for Use in East Asia, 1978). (5) Nutritional composition of traditional fermented foods: Fermented soybeans [tou-shih], soy sauce, soy paste [doujiang], fermented tofu (Source Food Composition Table for Use in East Asia, 1978). In China, fried tofu is called Tou-Pok. Address: American Soybean Assoc., 541 Orchard Rd., #11-03 Liat Towers, Singapore 0923, Republic of Singapore.
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584. Johnson, Dale W. 1989. General uses of whole soybeans. In: E.W. Lusas, D.R. Erickson, and Wai-Kit Nip, eds. 1989. Food Uses of Whole Oil and Protein Seeds. Champaign-Urbana, IL: American Oil Chemists Society. vii + 401 p. See p. 12-29. Chap. 2. Proceedings of the Short Course on Food Uses of Whole Oil and Protein Seeds held at Makaha, Hawaii, May 11-14, 1986. [35 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction: Introduction. Oriental nonfermented products: Yuba, kinako Thai desserts (tofu guan, med khanoon), Thai foods (protein crisp, cooked baby food, canned evaporated soybean milk, taow-huey, kanom ping kaset). Fermented foods: Natto, hama-natto, tao tjo (a miso-type product made in Indonesia and Thailand), ontjom (made from peanuts, coconut press cake, or okara), kochu chang, ketjap, sufu, yogurt-type products, tauco, soy sauce, miso, tempeh. Western world type products. Full fat soy our (enzyme active, heat treated). Soybean hulls. Whole soybeans in animal feed. Chapatty [chapati]. Full fat soy grits. Heat treatment of soybeans. Heat treatment and texturizing. Low-fat products. Snacks (soynutsdry roasted or oil roasted, plain or seasoned). Soybean sprouts. Soy butter [soynut butter]. Combinations of soybeans and cereals. Soybeans as vegetables (mao-tou, edamame, or fresh green soybean). Defatted products. Nutrition. Soybean handling and equipment considerations. Solvent plant considerations. Address: Food Ingredients (Minnesota) Inc., 2121 Toledo Ave. North, Golden Valley, Minnesota 55422. 585. Blackman, Jackson F. 1989. Working chefs cookbook for natural whole foods. Morrisville, Vermont: Central Vermont Publishers. vi + 344 p. Illust. 28 cm. * Summary: Page 74: Chinese white cheese: (Chin.) Tofu marinated and fermented in rice wine; taste and texture of Camembert cheese. Used as avoring for noodles or vegetables, or served as a condiment. 586. Food & Agriculture Organization (FAO). 1989. Utilization of tropical foods: Tropical oil-seeds. Rome, Italy: Food & Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO). xiv + 82 p. 21 cm. Series: FAO Food and Nutrition Paper 47/5. * Summary: The 1st chapter, titled Leguminous oil-seed crops, has this contents: Soybean (p. 1-35): The golden bean from China, varieties and production, soybeans in the tropics. Hydrolysis of soybeans using microbial enzymes. Nutritional and acceptability aspects of soybeans: Cooking characteristics, soybean avour, digestibility of soybeans. Soybean processing in eastern Asia: Fermentation of soybeans. Fermentation inoculants: Koji and ragi, angkak and masam [a green fermentation starter from Nepal, made from wheat and selected moulds], preparation of koji. Preparation of soy sauce: Traditional Japanese shoyu, other types of soy sauce. Fermented soybean pastes: Types of miso, preparation of miso koji, preparation of mame
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU miso, preparation of hamanatto. Other fermented soybean products: Natto and thua nao. Indonesian tempe: Preparation of tempe ragi, production of tempe kedele, other types of tempe, domestic use and nutritional content of tempe. Foods fermented by molds: Role of moulds in food processing, food safety aspects. Non-fermented soybean products: Production of soy milk, improving soymilk avour. Soybean protein products: Preparation of tofu, preparation of yuba. Soybean cheese products: Preparation of sufu (The Chinese prepare a fermented soy curd called sufu, which resembles a moulded, soft-texture cheese. Red sufu is made using red rice koji (angkak)). Use of soy milk and tofu residues: Preparation of oncom tahu, preparation of meitauza. Use of soybean sprouts. Soybeans as a cash crop. Soybean as an oilseed: Problems of small-scale extraction. Solvent extraction of soybean oil: Economic aspects, extraction process, rening operations. Nutritional and organoleptic aspects of soybean oil. Commercial production of vegetable fats and oils: Solid shortenings, effects of hydrogenation, hardness of fats. Margarine production: Composition of margarine, manufacture of margarine. Production of soybean grits and our. Commercial production of soybean protein products: Protein concentrates, protein isolates, economic aspects. Introduction of soyfoods at the village level: Snack foods, vegetable relish, pastes and our. Preparation of soybeans at the village level: Reducing bitter avours, preparation of soybean our. Prospects for soybean products in the tropics. Concerning the preparation of sufu (p. 21): ... the cubes [of tofu] are drained and heated for about 15 minutes at 100C to sterilize them. The sterilized cubes are cooled, placed on trays, and inoculated with one of the following fungi: Actinomucor elegans, Mucor lienialis, or Rhizopus chinensis var. chungyen, depending on the type of cheese to be produced. They are then incubated at 12-20C for three to seven days. At that stage, the cubes become covered with a white mycelium and are known as pehtzu [pehtze]. In the nal stages, the cubes of pehtzu are transferred to ageing tanks, where they are immersed in a mixture of rice wine and salt, 2-5% sodium chloride, for forty to sixty days. The alcohol content of this dip (approximately 10 percent) is much higher than that normally obtained by anaerobic fermentation using osmophyllic [osmophilic] yeasts. The nal product, after completing the ageing period, is soft and pale yellow, with a pleasant taste and aroma. It is often served with sesame oil. More pungent cheeses are prepared by related processes, by adding other components to the nal brine solution. These may include red rice koji, fermented rice mash, anise or pepper. An outline of a preparation from Thailand, using red rice koji to give a red sufu is shown in Figure 3 (a ow sheet, p. 22; Source: Narudom Boon-Long. 1983. Traditional fermented food products. United Nations University (UNU) Workshop Paper, CFTRI, Mysore, India). The peanut from Peru (p. 36+).
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587. Hesseltine, C.W. 1989. Fermented products. In: Ruth H. Matthews, ed. 1989. Legumes: Chemistry, Technology, and Human Nutrition. New York and Basel: Marcel Dekker, Inc. x + 389 p. See p. 161-85. [29 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction: Fermented legume products. A table lists about 85 products with the vernacular name, legume from which it is made, country, and microorganism(s) used. Products made from soybeans include: Miso (bean paste), Shoyu (soy sauce), Sufu (Chinese cheese), Ontjom (Oncom), Hamanatto, Idli (with and without soy), Natto, and Tempeh. Address: Human Nutrition Information Service, USDA, Hyattsville, Maryland (and NRRC, Peoria, Illinois). 588. Reddy, N.R.; Salunkhe, D.K. 1989. Fermentation. In: D.K. Salunkhe and S.S. Kadam, eds. 1989. CRC Handbook of World Food Legumes: Nutritional Chemistry, Processing Technology, and Utilization. Vol. III. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press, Inc. 323 p. See p. 177-217. [233* ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Soy sauce: Types of soy sauce, preparation of Shoyu composition, safety. Miso: Preparation, composition, nutritional quality, miso-like products. Sufu: Preparation, microorganisms, biochemical changes and composition, toxicology, method of preparation, chemical composition, physical properties, nutritional quality. Tempeh: Preparation, nutrient composition, nutritional quality, antinutritional and/or toxic factors, tempeh and tempeh-like foods from other legumes. Address: 1. Community Research Service, Atwood Research Facilities, Kentucky State Univ., Frankfort, Kentucky; 2. Dep. of Nutrition and Food Sciences, Utah State Univ., Logan, Utah. 589. Wang, Guangjian; Kuan, S.S.; Francis, O.J.; Ware, G.M.; Carman, A.S. 1990. A simplied HPLC method for the determination of phytoestrogens in soybean and its processed products. J. of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 38(1):18590. Jan. [14 ref] Summary: Discusses the phytoestrogen content of soybeans, defatted soy meal, hard tofu, soft tofu, dry spiced tofu, soy milk skin (p. 189) / soy milk lm (p. 188) [yuba], soy milk, soy sauce, hot soy paste, sweet soy paste [miso?], fermented tofu, soy sprouts (homemade), soy sprouts (grocery), daidzein, genistein, formononetin, coumestrol. Address: Natural Toxins Research Center, Food and Drug Administration, 4298 Elysian Fields Ave., New Orleans, Louisiana 70122. 590. Hom, Ken. 1990. Homecoming: Culinary reworks go off when the author visits his ancestral village. New York Times. Feb. 25. p. SM45. Summary: When he was a small boy in Chicago, Illinois, the writers mother began what became a repeated chant: we must return one day to the village of our ancestors (gu
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU xiang). In 1978 he set off with his mother to the village of Kaiping in the Foshan region of Guangdong Province. When they arrived, they were greeted by a large crowd of villagers and a banquet of 11 courses. Most of the food was homegrown, and all of the relatives20 members of the extended familyhad helped in the preparation. Chinese water spinach, freshly plucked from the garden was cooked with fermented bean curd. Recipes include: Hongshao doufu (Red-cooked bean curd family style; with 1 pound rm bean curd, 2 tablespoons hoisin sauce, 1 tablespoon light soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon dark soy sauce). Chaodoya (Stir-fried soybean sprouts with pork; with 1 pounds soybean sprouts or mungbean sprouts). 591. Hesseltine, C.W. 1990. Margaret B. Church, 1889-1976. Mycologia 82(1):144-47. Jan/Feb. [20 ref] Summary: Dr. Margaret Brooks Church was a distinguished mycologist and a charter member of the Mycological Society who has been neglected in the history of mycology. She made several noteworthy contributions to systematic and applied mycology. She, along with Dr. Charles Thom, wrote the rst manual on the genus Aspergillus. The rst authoritative treatment of oriental fermented foods in the West was written by her. It remains an accurate account of these fermentation processes. Dr. Church also conducted laboratory experiments on soy fermentations and collaborated with Japanese workers, especially Professor K. Oshima; Hokkaido Imperial University, Sapporo, Japan... Dr. Church was born in Providence, Rhode Island, on March 13, 1899. She received an A.B. in 1912, an A.M. in 1914, and a Ph.D. in 1918, all from Brown University. One of her most important contributions was the USDA Department Bulletin 1152 entitled, Soy and Related Fermentations, published in 1923. At that time there was interest in establishing soybean production in the United States because soybeans were being imported into the U.S. from the Orient. This publication had many photographs of the industrial processes of making koji and soy sauce in Japan. Research in soy sauce production began in 1918 and continued for several years. Soy sauce, miso, molded [fermented] tofu, and natto were also described... Dr. Churchs research dealt extensively with koji, and it is surprising that she knew even then that tane koji (koji inoculum) consisted of several selected mold strains of Aspergillus oryzae. The fact that yellow-green Aspergillus strains were employed in these fermentations undoubtedly led both Thom and Church to publish the taxonomic relationships of this group of molds in 1921. Her research on koji was a likely catalyst for her study of industrial enzymes... In 1938-1939, Dr. Church served as an indexer and abstractor for Biological Abstracts. Upon her retirement,
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presumably in 1939, she moved to Lyndon, Vermont. A large photo shows Dr. Church. Address: 5407 Isabell, Peoria, Illinois 61614. 592. Macfarlane, Bruce J.; Riet, W.B. van der; Bothwell, T.H.; et al. 1990. Effect of traditional oriental soy products on iron absorption. American J. of Clinical Nutrition 51(5):873-80. May. [28 ref] Summary: Various soy products (silken tofu, tofu, tempeh, natto, different types of miso, sufu, and soy our) were fed to 242 women. Blood levels of iron were then compared. Silken tofu, tempeh, natto, and the misos showed better iron absorption than tofu and sufu. The authors speculated that because tofu is higher in calcium, it might be this calcium that is inhibiting iron absorption. Silken tofu, coagulated with GDL, has a much lower calcium content than silken tofu. Address: MRC Iron and Red Cell Metabolism Unit, Dep. of Medicine, Univ. of Witatersrand, Johannesburg; Div. of Food Science and Technology, CSIR, Pretoria; and the Dep. of Medicine, Univ. of Natal, Durban, South Africa. 593. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1990. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo seizo ni kansuru kenkyu: Seizo hiden no kagakuteki kaiseki to gijutsu tenkai [Studies on the manufacture of Okinawan fermented tofu (tofuyo). A scientic analysis of procedures for making tofuyo, and its technical development]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 37(5):403-09. May. [28 ref. Jap] Summary: On page 404 is a ow chart for making tofuyo from whole soybeans. The article contains 3 tables and 4 gures; two of the latter are graphs and one is a photo. Address: Dep. of Agricultural Chemistry, College of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Nishihara-cho, Okinawaken 903-01. 594. Cardenas, Danilo C. 1990. Status of the Philippine soyfood industry. Paper presented at the International Conference on Soybean Processing and Utilization. Held 2529 June 1990 at the Jilin Academy of Agricultural Sciences, Gongzhuling, China. * Address: Supervising Science Research Specialist, Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry, and Natural Resources Research and Development (PCARRD), Los Baos, Laguna 3720, Philippines. 595. MT Plate. 1990. July. New soyfoods restaurant or deli. 641 N. Palm Dr. (P.O. Box 3243), Palm Springs, CA 922633243. Summary: Letter from Tanya Malch. 1990. Sept. 11. This restaurant opened on 17 July 1990 with completely vegetarian (except rennetless cheeses) lunch and dinner menus consisting of Pasta, Pizza, and Pacic Rim foods. The dinner menu represents 8 countries. They have a young,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU full-time French chef who adds style and presentation and is doing great things with the tempeh. They make their own tempeh, presently for use at the restaurant only, and lite-soy-millet. For lunch they serve tempeh burgers, tacos, Tempehting Garden Salad, and a wonderful tempeh pat on a bed of greens with basmati rice. For dinner, appetizers include (from Thailand) Thai Stix, which are skewers of tempeh to dip in a south seas peanut sauce, and (from Japan) aged tofu. Entrees include Tempeh Scallopini with Shallot and Shiitake-Sake Sauce. Everyone loves the tempeh. We have tempeh addicts who never knew the word before we opened. Her partner is Mona. Menu. 1990. 8.5 by 11 inches. 1 page, two sided. Black on yellow. Talk with Tanya. 1991. March 7. She tells how tennis star Martina Navratilova came repeatedly to her restaurant before and during the local Virginia Slims tennis tournament and loved the tempeh, then after winning the tournament, Martina stopped her press conference to talk about what a great food tempeh is! (see separate record). Tanya uses about 48 cups of soybeans a week to make tempeh. She mixes 3 parts of soybeans with 1 part millet and makes only soy & millet tempehher favorite. She feels that fresh tempeh is far superior to its refrigerated or frozen counterpart. She also teaches a cooking class on tempeh. M.T. Plate then moved to 43 North Pacic Coast Hwy #201, Redondo Beach, California 90277. This restaurant was on the second oor of a building. Then the rent tripled and investors balked. So Tanya closed it in mid-1993. Now she wants to make tempeh. Address: Palm Springs, California. Phone: 619-323-9686. 596. East (TheHigashi).1990. The history of tofu. 26(2):2531. July/Aug. Summary: This article appears is the section of the magazine titled The Taste of Japan. Contents: Introduction. The transformation to tofu, The birth of tofu. The popularization of tofu. Transformation of tofu [by further processing]. Tofu dressed up. Tofu coming to Japan from overseas. Fermented tofu is common in China, but rare in Japan. Fermented tofu, furu in Chinese, can be regarded as a cheese made from tofu. In Japan, fermented tofu is found only in Okinawa prefecture, which because of its proximity to China, developed a unique culture under Chinese inuence. The Japanese word for fermented tofu is tfuyo [tofuyo]. Some dishes are made from the byproducts of tofu manufacture. One byproduct from which dishes are made is okara, the dregs extracted from tny [soymilk]. 597. Shurtleff, William. 1990. Americas earliest known tofu manufacturer discovered: Wo Sing & Co. was making tofu in San Francisco in 1878 (News release). Soyfoods Center, P.O.
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Box 234. Lafayette, CA 94549. 2 p. Oct. 29. [2 ref] Summary: In Jan. 1848 gold was discovered in California. By 1850 there were still only a few hundred Chinese in California. Then in 1852 the Chinese joined the Gold Rush. They called California the Golden Mountain. By 1852 there were 20-25,000 Chinese in the golden state, and by 1860 there were 30-50,000. The 1880 census found 75,132 Chinese in California, comprising 8.6% of the states population. These Chinese immigrants, mostly young men from Kwangtung province in southern China, and more specically from the area around Canton, almost certainly brought soybeans with them to America, and they probably made tofu (which they called daufu, dow-foo, or doufu) using those soybeans. But, until now, no one has been able to prove the existence of any Chinese manufacturers of tofu or other soyfoods in America before 1899. During this year Walter C. Blasdale, an instructor in chemistry at the University of California, Berkeley, reported in the USDA Ofce of Experiment Stations, Bulletin No. 68 that Chinese in San Francisco were making bean cheese, both fresh and fried, as well as fresh curds. After years of searching, William Shurtleff, Director of the Soyfoods Center in Lafayette, California, has discovered a tofu manufacturer in San Francisco, California, in 1878. According to the Wells Fargo and Co. Directory of Chinese Business Houses, published in San Francisco in 1878, Wo Sing & Co. was making fermented tofu and regular (nonfermented) tofu at 708 Dupont St. in San Francisco. The name of the company and its products were written in both Chinese and English. Tofu was translated as Bean Cakes. This was the earliest known tofu shop in the western world (as of Oct. 1990). In the same Wells Fargo directory published in 1882, a second Chinese tofu manufacturer appeared. Sam Sing was making fermented and regular tofu at 615 Dupont St., basement, in San Francisco. Wo Sing was still in business at the address given above. The earliest known Japanese-run tofu manufacturer in America was Hirata Co. in Sacramento, California. They began making tofu in 1895. The oldest existing tofu maker in America today is Quong Hop & Co. of South San Francisco. Founded and still run by the same Chinese-American family, they began making tofu in 1906 in San Francisco. The two oldest existing Japanese-American tofu companies are probably House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. of Los Angeles and Aala Tofu Co. of Honolulu. Both trace their origins back to 1923 in Hawaii... The rst ve Caucasian-run tofu companies in the western world were all run by Seventh-day Adventists in America. In Nov. 1929, T.A. Van Gundy of La Sierra Industries in Arlington, California (near Riverside), introduced his La Sierra Soya Cheese...
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU The sixth Caucasian-run tofu company in America, and the rst of the new wave of Caucasian tofu makers, was the Welcome Home Bakery and Tofu Shop in Corvallis, Oregon, founded by Alec Evans. In March 1975 he started making Tofu. The earliest document seen (Oct. 1990), written by an American, that mentions tofu appeared in 1770 when the famous Benjamin Franklin wrote a letter on Jan. 11 from London to John Bartram in Philadelphia... The Soyfoods Center would like to offer a $100 reward to anyone who can nd a tofu manufacturer in North America or Europe before 1878. Reprinted in Soya International (July/Sept. p. 3). Address: Lafayette, California. 598. Dacosta, Yves. 1990. Lait de soja et tofu [Soymilk and tofu]. APRIA/CDIUPA, 1 avenue des Olympiades, 91300 Massy, France. 102 p. Dec. No index. 30 cm. Series: Actualits Scientiques et Techniques en Industries AgroAlimentaires. No. 45. [85 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Preliminary remarks. 1. Production of soymilk and tofu: Principles of production, the soybeans, cleaning/washing, soaking, grinding, cooking the slurry (bouillie), extraction of the soymilk, coagulation, separation of curds and whey, pressing the curds, removal of the tofu from the mold, cutting and packing the tofu, the need for water in a tofu ship, variations in production, storage and preservation of soymilk and tofu after their production, yuba, production of tofu from seeds other than soybeans. 2. Applications/uses of soymilk and tofu: Products: Soymilk and soymilk products (soymilk, sweetened soy beverages, dairylike soymilks, soy-based infant formulas, powdered soymilk, concentrated soymilks, soymilk mixed with other animal or vegetable milks, soy ice creams and frozen desserts, fermented soymilk products such as soy yogurt, various soymilk desserts [such as custards], sauces, dressings, and mayonnaises made from soymilk), tofu and tofu products (smoked tofu, fried tofu [tofu frit], marinated tofu, fermented tofu, breaded tofu, tofu mayonnaise and sauces, tofu spreads for bread, tofu sausages, pts, or biscuits/pancakes [galettes], tofu quenelles, quiches, fritters, raviolis, pizzas, mixed salads, prepared dishes (plats cuisins), or sandwiches, tofu cakes, cheesecakes, or tarts, tofu desserts, ice creams, or chocolate bars), preparations based on okara (sausages, pts, croquettes, burgers, special breads or biscuits), the nutritional arguments for soymilk and tofu (rich in proteins, lipids, absence of cholesterol and lactose, low in sodium, an excellent ingredient in light foods [aliments allegs]). 3. A quick look at the major enterprises making and or selling soymilk, tofu, or their products in selected countries: France (Cacoja, Innoval, Soy [Socit Soy], Sojadoc, Triballat, Celia, Celnat, Lima-Andiran, Maho Distribution, France-Proteines-Services), Great Britain (Plamil Foods
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Ltd., Itona Products Ltd., Soya Health Foods Ltd., British Arkady Co. Ltd. [subsidiary of ADM; incl. Haldane Foods Ltd., Regular Tofu Co., Tofeata Tofu], Granose Foods Ltd., Cauldron Foods, Dragon and Phoenix, Paul Jones (Tofu Shop), Full of Beans Soyfoods, Birchwood Health Products, White Waves, The Bean Machine Co-op Ltd., St. Ivel, St. Giles Foods Ltd., Yus Tofu Shop, Tousoy Ltd., Allied Foods Ice Cream Co., Nexus Foods, Vegetarian Feasts, Unisoy Milk and By-Products Ltd.), Germany (DE-VAU-GE Gesundkostwerk GmbH, Soyastern Naturkost GmbH, NuxoWerke Rothfritz), Netherlands (Heuschen-Schrouff, Linn Oriental Products, Solnuts B.V., Manna Natuurvoeding), Belgium (Alpro, Jonathan P.V.B.A., Lima Foods, De Hobbit, Seven Arrows), Switzerland (Conserves Estavayer S.A., Soyana, Galactina), Sweden (Trensums Musteri, Aros Sojaprodukter), Italy (Crivellaro), Spain (Zuaitzo), USA, Japan, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Singapore. Bibliography. Note: A great deal of the information in this report is taken, without permission or adequate citation, from books published by the Soyfoods Center in California. The statistics and dates given for the European, American, and Asian markets are taken almost completely from Soyfoods Center books. In some cases where the author relied on these books published more than 2 years ago, the information is presented as if it were current, whereas it is actually out of date and no longer correct. Dacostas book, which might be called a review of the literature, contains little or no new information. However his bibliography, based largely on a search of the CDIUPA database, with some original references, is quite good. APRIA stands for Association pour la Promotion Industrie Agricole. APRIA administers CDIUPA. Address: Conseiller dEntreprises, France: 47, rue Guersant7015 Paris, France. 599. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1990. Tofu & soymilk production. 2nd ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Dec. 11. 28 cm. [223 ref] Summary: Contains many new advertisements, plus changes on the copyright page, on page 14 (Soyfoods Association in now located at Bar Harbor, Maine), and rear cover of both paperback and hardcover editions (new ISBN for each). Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 600. Engel, G. 1990. Vergleich von Quark mit Sojaprodukten: Herstellung, Mikroora, Zusammensetzung, Sensork [Comparison of quark with soy products: Production, microora, composition, and organoleptic properties]. Deutsche Milchwirtschaft 41(38):1272-75. 7 tables. Also published in Kieler Milchtage, 1990. [24 ref. Ger]* Summary: Compares the quality and nutritive value of
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU cows milk and soymilk, and discusses criteria for evaluating the chemical, microbiological, and organoleptic quality of tofu, okara, miso, tempeh, sufu, and other soyfoods. Address: Bundesanstalt Milchforschung, Inst. Mikrobiologie, Kiel, Germany. 601. Facciola, Stephen. 1990. Cornucopia: A source book of edible plants. Vista, California: Kampong Publications. ix + 678 p. Indexes (six!). 28 cm. [522* ref] Summary: In your hands is one of the most remarkable efforts to come out of the struggle to preserve the genetic diversity of our planet... Steve Facciola has put together an easy-to-understand, easy-to-use compendium of the diversity of food plants available to consumer, gardener and scientist (from the Preface). The largest and most comprehensive work of its kind, this book gives details on 3,000 edible plant species and 7,000 varieties. Contents: Preface, by Noel Vietmeyer. Introduction. Acknowledgements. Botanical listings: Alphabetical listings of plant families (Glycine max and Glycine tabacina are listed in the family Fabaceae, pronounced fuh-BAY-see), fungi families, algae families, bacteria families. Cultivar listings (by common name for the most important and popular crops, e.g., shiitake, soybean, spinach, sprouting seeds). Sources (names, addresses and phone numbers of rms that sell seeds, plants, etc.: Domestic commercial, domestic non-commercial, overseas commercial, overseas non-commercial). Bibliography. Indices and appendixes: Index of principal vernacular names. Index of vernacular and other names occurring elsewhere in the text. Index of usage and edible parts. Index of species native to or naturalized in North America. Index of species not listed in Kunkel [Gunther Kunkel. 1984. Plants for human consumption. Koeltz Scientic Books, Germany]. Index of families and genera. Appendix A: Abbreviations usedFor type of product offered, for annotated bibliographical citations, in descriptions for sources. Appendix B: Endnotes used in the cultivar listings. As of Aug. 1994 an electronic version of this book is now available. It runs on Microsoft Windows and uses more than 25,000 hypertext links to cross reference information. The main information on soybeans is found on pages 91 (Botanical listings for Glycine max and Glycine tabacina), p. 219 (Aspergillus oryzae culture), p. 221 (Actinomucor elegans culture for fermented tofu or sufu, and Rhizopus cultures for tempeh), p. 224 (Bacillus subtilis culture for natto), p. 482-83 (for eld soybeans, lists 5 black-skinned cultivars, and 7 yellow-skinned cultivars; plus 11 vegetable soybeansAgate, Butterbeans, Envy, Extra Early, Fiskeby V, Hahto, Hakucho Early, Kanrich, Okuhara Early Green, Prize, and White Lion), p. 485-87 (sprouting seeds including soybean sprouts with directions for sprouting), and p. 500 (Soyfood cultures). Additional information on food uses of soybeans is
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found throughout the book. Tofu: p. 9 (In Indonesia, a salt derived from the fruit of Rhus javanica (Nurude, Muyen) is used to coagulate tofu), p. 61 (In Japan the seeds of Cannabis sativa, called asanomi, are used in deep-fried tofu burgers (ganmodoki)), p. 76 (A vegetable curd similar to soybean tofu can be made from the seeds of the bottle gourd or calabash (Lagenaria siceraria)), p. 92 (The seeds of the Bonavista bean or hyacinth bean (Lablab purpureus) can be prepared as tofu), p. 127 (The seeds of okra, gumbo, or ladys nger (Abelmoschus esculentus) can be made into tofu or tempeh). Kecap (Indonesian soy sauce): p. 9 (In Indonesia, the plant tuberose (Polianthes tuberosa) is added to the substrate in making kecap), p. 191 (In Indonesia, fresh leaves of kafr lime, also called ichang lime, makrut, or djeruk purut (Citrus hystrx) are used to avor kecap). Miso: The following can be used as a substrate for misop. 88 (Peanuts), p. 94 (seeds of the velvet bean, also called cowitch, cowhage, benguk (Mucuna pruriens)), p. 155 (barley (Hordeum vulgare)), p. 156 (proso millet (Panicum miliaceum)). Address: 1870 Sunrise Dr., Vista, California 92084. Phone: (619) 726-0990. 602. Hesseltine, C.W. 1990. UJNR panel on toxic microorganisms. In: Albert E. Pohland, V.R. Dowell, Jr., and J.L. Richard, eds. 1990. Microbial Toxins in Foods and Feeds: Cellular and Molecular Modes of Action. New York: Plenum Press. xvii + 617 p. See p. 1-15. From a Symposium on Cellular and Molecular Mode of Action of Selected Microbial Toxins in Foods and Foods. Held 1988. Illust. 26 cm. Summary: The UJNR (United StatesJapan Cooperative Program on Natural Resources) was established in May 1964. There were 7 original panels, one of which was Toxic Microorganisms. The initial emphasis was on botulism, soon followed by aatoxins. The Panel consisted of 7 Japanese and 7 Americans; they comprised a mix a people who were experts on fungal mycotoxins and bacterial toxins. The Panel conducted many activities including joint panel meetings and study tours, exchange of mutual interest items, publication of 6 books, symposia, development of regulations, and interaction with other societies. The 1966 study tours in Japan were longer than usual because of the review of 4 projects supported by the USA involving the use of soybeans in foods. These 1966 tours included visits to the following Japanese organizations working with soybeans: (1) Universities: Nagoya Univ. (Mycotoxins and soybean fermentations), Tohoku Univ., Faculty of Agriculture (Miso fermentation), Kyoto Univ. (Fermented soybean foods), and Tokyo Univ. of Education (Soybean cheese). (2) Japanese government laboratories: Noda Institute of Research, Chiba (Shoyu fermentation), Institute for fermentation, Osaka (Culture collection and fermentation in General). (3) Trade association laboratories (each in Tokyo):
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Japanese Tofu Assoc., Japanese Shoyu Institute, Central Miso Institute. (4) Companies: Sendai Miso Shoyu Co., Sendai (Miso production), Koji Sanzaemon Roho, Kyoto (Koji starter production), Takeda Chemical Industry, Osaka (Antibiotic & avor fermentations), Kikkoman Shoyu Co., Chiba (Shoyu production). Talk with Dr. Walter Wolf of Peoria, Illinois. 2000. Aug. 14. He was on the UJNR Protein Panel, which met for about 10-12 years, on alternating years in Japan and the USA. Thus he went to Japan 5-6 timesthe last time being in about 1988. The purpose of the panel was exchange of information about protein. They met with their counterparts at the NFRI (National Food Research Institute, Tsukuba). At a typical meeting there would be formal presentations by members of both teams, followed by a eld trip to numerous facilities. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 603. Lee, Ben. 1991. Update on fermented tofu (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. March 5. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: Jim Miller of Quong Hop & Co. noted in a SoyaScan interview in April 1984 that the government now required fermented tofu to be sold refrigerated. The regulation was apparently fairly new at that time. This regulation still applies, but apparently only in the state of California and only on products made in California. The law is a state law, and it is applicable since it is stricter than the federal law. Thus in California, Quong Hop & Co., the only manufacturer of fermented tofu in the USA, must make this product under canning regulations and print on the label: PerishableKeep refrigerated. Of course, the product has never been refrigerated in Asia and there is no reason for it to be refrigerated here since it is made under more sanitary conditions. There continues to be a glut of imported brands of fermented tofu, mostly made in Hong Kong, Taiwan, and mainland China. Ben feels they are of inferior quality and they are often detained by customs ofcials. But these products, because they are not made in California, need not be refrigerated in retail stores. The law is inconsistent on this point and Quong Hop has spent considerable money and time trying to rectify this injustice, but the state health regulators are unwilling to respond or change the law. Thus, it is an ongoing problem and handicap for Quong Hop. The market for this product, which is consumed mostly by Asian Americans from the countries that import it, is at least $2-3 million a year retail. Address: V.P. Marketing & Personnel, Quong Hop & Co., 161 Beacon St., South San Francisco, California 94080. Phone: 415-873-4444. 604. Sams, Craig. 1991. Pioneering macrobiotics and soyfoods in England, 1967-1979 (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Aug. 24. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center.
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Summary: Craig and Greg Sams were both born in America. Their mother is from Nebraska and their father from Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Greg is 4 years younger than Craig. During the 1950s and 1960s the family went to England periodically, largely because Craigs father worked in England as a historian for the U.S. Air Force. In 1965 Craig took a year off from college, traveled around the Indian subcontinent, and got hepatitis. Upon returning to the Univ. of Pennsylvania in Philadelphia for his nal year, he fell in with 3 followers of macrobiotics and got interested in macrobiotics. In about Feb. or March of 1966 he went to the Paradox, a macrobiotic restaurant in New York and decided that he wanted to start a similar restaurant in London. In late 1966 Craigs brother, Greg, fell out of a tree in Berkeley, was paralyzed from the waist down and was conned to a wheel chairas he still is. In Feb. 1967 Craig started a restaurant named the Macro at 10-A Airlie Gardens, Holland Park, London. Yoko Ono, John Lennons wife, was one of the rst regulars. She was the rst person Craig met in London who was aware of macrobiotics; she had learned about it in Japan. But Craig had to close Macro after 2 months because of zoning problems. In mid-1967 Greg joined Craig in London and in Dec. 1967 they opened a new macrobiotic / natural foods restaurant named Seed at 136a Westbourne Terrace, W.2, Londona few minutes walk from Paddington Station. Soyfoods were a part of the menu. They got Kikkoman shoyu, shiro-miso, and Hatcho miso from a Japanese import company named Mikado-ya, which was run by Japanese in southeast London out of the basement of a house and supplied Japanese embassies in Europe and Africa. At that time Craig thinks there were no Japanese restaurants or retail stores in London. Seed soon started to import Hatcho and barley (mugi) miso from Muso in Japan. Seed never used any of Limas soyfood products. Seed also used fermented tofu; they mixed it with tahini, spread it on bread, and called it a Rarebitan alternative Welsh Rarebit, which is cheese on toast. Seed purchased fresh tofu and [mung] bean sprouts from a Chinese company named Lung Kee on Fermoy Road, Paddington, London, right on the banks of the canal. It was run by one Chinese man who employed about 15 West Indian / Jamaican women who made the foods. Bean sprouts accounted for most of Lung Kees business. Craig has no idea when Lung Kee started making tofu. In addition to its mainstay, brown rice, Seed served the tofu diced in miso soups, or sauteed with vegetables such as nitsuke carrots, etc., or as a dessert with tofu and apple concentrate whipped with fruit to a thick creamy consistency and chilled. The restaurant did well. It was soon famous for its groovy vibes and its free meal of brown rice, veggies, and green tea for those who could not afford to pay. Although the Sams brothers were not proponents of the brown rice and marijuana regimen (as Kotzsch had implied in 1985, p. 221), Seed was a favorite hangout for a host of 60s
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU counterculture celebrities such as The Beatles, The Rolling Stones, Yoko Ono, and others. Americans such as Bill Tara, Peggy Taylor, Eric Utne, and Paul Petrofsky also worked there. Then people began to ask the Sams if they could buy staple foods from the restaurant. So food was soon packaged and sold over the restaurant counter. In about March 1969, to meet the growing consumer demand, the Sams brothers opened Ceres, a natural foods / macrobiotic retail store, at 8-A All Saints Road, 2 bocks from and parallel to Portobello Road. Ceres also did extremely well, with Greg and various managers having the main responsibility while Craig focused on the restaurant. Soyfoods retailed by Ceres included Hatcho and mugi miso, tamari, fermented tofu, and fresh tofu sold in trays immersed in water. Eventually Bill Tara and Peter Bradford took over management of Ceres. Soon other people began to open restaurants and natural foods / macrobiotic stores like Ceres in college towns in England: Innity Foods in Brighton (at Sussex University; Peter Deadman, Robin Bines, Simon Bailey were involved), Arjuna in Cambridge, Harvest in Bath, and On the Eighth Day in Manchester. In 1970 the Sams developed a large mobile tent macrobiotic restaurant and made a lot of money by taking it to various big rock festivals. In Aug. 1970 Harmony Foods was established as a natural foods / macrobiotic import, product development, and distribution company. The money from the mobile restaurant was used to rent a building at No. 10 St. Lukes Road in London (only about 300 yards from the Ceres shop), and to import enough products to start a line / range of products under the Harmony Brand (the logo was a yin / yang sign). They stored and packed these in basement at Harmony Foods. Starting in 1969, the rst imports for the restaurant and for Ceres had came from Muso in Japan, and from a macrobiotic society in Vietnam came red rice and green tea. In 1970 they started to import 4-5 tons of organically-grown brown rice from The Camargue in the south of France. Grown by the same man who grew brown rice for Lima Foods, it became the companys main product. Harmony Foods started out with about 20 customers16 conventional health food shops and 4 of the new wave of natural foods stores (which the natural foods stores called grain shops). Wholefood of Baker Street was the pioneer organic shop that started in the 1950s. They were part of the Soil Association, so organic growers used it as an outlet for the rst organically grown produce retailed in England. They soon became an important outlet for Harmony Foods as well. In addition a man named Ivan Seruya would collect food (mostly produce) from the organic growers and deliver it to restaurants like Seed and Manna in London. One other product that was grown organically was Pimhill Flour. Harmony Foods was a pioneer in developing new organic growers (such as Stewart Patterson who farmed wheat with horses) and in putting organically grown foods into retail
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outlets. By Aug. 1970 Harmony Foods was distributing soyfoods, including Hatcho miso, mugi (barley) miso, and tamari from Muso in Japanimported in wooden kegs and packed in glass jars. These were the rst miso and shoyu products available at retail outlets in England. In Jan. 1971 Harmony Foods outgrew its building on St. Lukes Rd. and moved into a larger warehouse at 191 Latimer Road (Maidenhead), a former cosmetics factory. Just before the move, Bill Tara informed the Sams that he was in London to set up Erewhon Europe to compete with Harmony. The restaurant, Seed, was sold in the spring of 1971 and reopened as The Magic Carpet. In 1971 Ceres was renamed Ceres Grain Shop and relocated at 269 A Portobello Rd. In mid-1972 the shop next to Ceres closed. The Sams took it over and made it into Ceres Bakery. It transformed large amounts of wheat, organically grown in England, into unique and delicious naturally leavened breads. The enzymes in the freshly-milled our helped to leaven the bread. When they closed down Seed, the restaurant on All Saints Road, there was still a demand for simple macrobiotic food, so in about Feb/March 1971 they opened Green Genes, a sort of macrobiotic workingmans caf on a much smaller scale. Each person picked up her or her food from a counter; there was no table service. It was open for lunch only whereas Seed had been open only in the evenings. In 1972 they began to publish a magazine titled Seed: The Journal of Organic Living. Bill Tara and Peter Bradford helped with it occasionally. It continued for 6 years. That same year, above Ceres Bakery, started Ceres Bookstore, which only last for 1 years. Meanwhile Bill Tara and Peter Bradford had expanded and transformed Ceres Grain Shop, but in a way that led to extensive shoplifting, so it was scaled back to near its original size and nally sold in 1979 to Jack Weller. By that year all efforts and resources were focused on Harmony Foods, the wholesale business. Peanut butter (non-organic), the rst product manufactured by Harmony, was now in two of the leading supermarket chains, Safeway and Waitrose. Address: 269 Portobello Road, Notting Hill, London W11 1LR, England. Phone: 071-229 7545. 605. Moll, Lucy. 1991. All soy is not created equal. Vegetarian Times. Aug. p. 20. Summary: The iron in soy products comes in a form that is difcult for the body to use. However a new study shows that the iron in some soyfoods is more readily absorbed by the body than the iron in othersalthough the mechanism is not yet clear. South African researchers divided 242 women into seven groups and fed each one a different type of soyfood: regular tofu, silken tofu, miso, tempeh (fermented), natto (fermented whole soybeans), fermented tofu (occasionally
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU called sufu), and soy our. Each meal contained 3-4 mg of iron and the meals were consumed daily for two weeks. Then the researchers checked the iron levels in the womens blood. Signicant differences were found. The women who ate silken tofu, tempeh, natto or miso had much higher iron levels than the women who ate regular tofu, fermented tofu, or soy our. 606. Duong, Binh; Kiesel, Marcia. 1991. The simple art of Vietnamese cooking. New York, NY: Prentice Hall Press. xvii + 326 p. Foreword by Jacques Ppin. Illust. (color photos by Becky Luigar-Stayner). Index. 24 cm. Summary: About the authors: Binh Duong was born in Vietnam in Nha Trang, on a beautiful bay on the countrys south central coast. He was raised in Da-Lat in the mountains; his father was an engineer. In 1975, near the end of the Vietnam war, he ed to the USA, where he became a well-known chef. He and Marcia Kiesel met in 1998 in the test kitchens of Food & Wine magazine. There is a certain nesse, a certain quality to Vietnamese cooking that sets it apart from other types of oriental food: Clean, clear sauces; a minimum of fat; an abundance of vegetables; and very distinctive avors (p. xi, from the Foreword, by Jacques Ppin). The best place to eat for most people in Vietnam, especially if one does not have much extra money, is at the food stalls in the open-air market. The atmosphere is convivial; the food as pure and fresh as it can be made. There are only a few basic ingredients in Vietnamese cooking, but they are vital ones: nuoc mam, or sh sauce, lemongrass, a handful of unusual herbs, rice paper, and rice our (p. xvi-vii). The chapter on Key ingredients (p. 10-29) includes: (1) Bean curd, dried (tau hu ky [yuba]); it comes in thin sheets or rolled bean sticks. Sold in plastic packets or colorful paper packages. Can be fried until crisp or softened in water then simmered or sauteed. (2) Bean curd, fresh (dau khuon): Japanese name: Tofu. (3) Bean curd, fried (dau khoun chien): Cubes of fried tofu, especially delicious lled then simmered in a avorful stew. Sold 10 cubes in a 2-oz pack. (4) Bean curd, red (chao): A spicy wine-fermented tofu that imparts a reddish-brown luster and rich avor to marinades. Better quality products are sold in glass jars or small crocks. (5) Hoisin sauce (Tuong ngot): From China, hoisin is made from soybeans, garlic, sugar, and spices. (6) Vietnamese bean sauce (Tuong cu da). Made from soybeans, cooked rice, and water. (7) Soy sauce (xi dau): Used quite a bit in Vietnam, especially by Vegetarian Buddhists who do not eat sh sauce. Japanese soy sauces are light, pleasant and well suited to Vietnamese cooking. Dipping sauces and condiments: Soy vinaigrette (Nuox xi dau giam, with 3 tablespoons soy sauce, p. 51). Rich bean sauce (Nuoc tuong ngot, with 1 heaping tablespoon
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pure Vietnamese bean sauce or Chinese bean paste, p. 54). Soy related recipes: Garlic chive and tofu soup (Canh dau knuon, with three 3-ounce tofu cakes, cut into 2-inch pieces, p. 91. Tofu, highly prized even by nonvegetarians because it is so nutritious, picks up the avors it is cooked with and takes on a smooth and unusual texture that is quite pleasant). Fried tofu stuffed with pork and mushrooms (Dau khuon don thit, with two 2-ounce packages fried bean curd, p. 242-43). Vegetarian cooking of the Vietnamese Buddhists (p. 269-96). Begins with a page about how Buddhism came to Vietnam and its place in modern Vietnamese life and food. Vegetarian tofu soup (Canh chua chay). Vegetarian summer rolls (Goi cuon chay, with tofu). Vegetarian spring rolls (Cha gio chay, with rm tofu cakes and Soy dipping sauce). Fried tofu salad (Goi dau khuon). Carrot, jicama, and tofu salad (Goi chay, incl. three 3-ounce tofu cakes and 1 large sheet dried bean curd [yuba], broken in half crosswise). Fried tofu with green beans (Dau khuon xao dau). Grilled tofu and vegetables (Dau khuon va la ghiem nuong vi). Curried tofu saut (Dau khuon xao la lan, with rm tofu cakes). Lemongrass-scented vegetable saut (with tofu). Fried vegetables with noodles (with tofu and 1 large sheet of yuba). Squash and sweet potato stew with coconut and peanuts (Kiem, with yuba and tofu). Fried tofu with tomato and vegetables (Dau khuon xao thap cam). Hoisin dipping sauce (Nuoc cham tuon). Soy dipping sauce (Xi dau cham, with soy sauce). Address: 1. Chef and owner of the Truc Orient Express, Hartford, Connecticut; 2. Assoc. director of the test kitchen and a food writer at Food & Wine magazine. 607. Hesseltine, C.W. 1991. Zygomycetes in food fermentations. Mycologist (The) p. 162-69. [17 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Tempeh. Ragi and similar starters (Chinese yeast, bubod, murcha). Amylo process. Miscellaneous food uses employing Zygomycetes. Uncertain uses of Zygomycetes in food fermentation. Chinese cheese sufuThis important Chinese food is made by the fermentation of tofu with Actinomucor elegans (Eidam) C R Benj & Hesselt, or with Mucor species, especially M. dispersus Hagem in home processes. Actinomucor elegans was the mould used in all the commercial preparations investigated by Wai (1964). However, in his paper Wai called it R. chinensis var. chungyuen but later Chang & Wai (1967) corrected the identication. Actinomucor appears to be a monotypic genus intermediate between Rhizopus and Mucor. An illustration (line drawing) shows Actinomucor elegans. Spoirangia, columellae and sporangiophore (from Zycha and Ziepmann, 1969). The amylo process is used in the saccharication of cereal our mashes in the production of sugar to be converted into ethanol (ethyl alcohol). The process involves
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU soaking the grain for several hours in water followed by cooking to solubilize the starch. The acidied mash is cooled to 38-40C, then inoculated with a mucoraceous mold such as Mucor rouxii, Rhizopus japonicus, R. tonkinensis, R. delemar, or R. boulard. Air is blown through the mash for 24 hours at 38C, then the mash is cooled to below 33C and inoculated with yeast. The molds produce saccharifying enzymes as well as some alcohol. According to Schipper (1984) Rhizopus japonicus, R. tonkinensis, and R. delemar are synonyms of Rhizopus oryzae. Address: NRRC, Peoria, Illinois. 608. Passmore, Jacki. 1991. The encyclopedia of Asian food and cooking. New York, NY: William Morrow. 320 p. Illust. by Jan Smith. Index. 24 cm. [44 ref] Summary: The most complete book of its type seen to date (May 2010), with many helpful cross references (sometimes awed). Soyfoods are mentioned throughout. Unfortunately, for Chinese foods, the author does not distinguish between Mandarin and Cantonese, or between pinyin (newer) and Wade-Giles (older) styles of romanization. For some of the Also known as it is not clear to which of several previous entries this refers (see Soybean). Ame (ah meh, Japan): A sweet jelly made from millet. Azuki bean (Phaseolus angularis). Native to China; used in China since the Han Dynasty (206 BCAD 220): An [or anko] (Japan): A sweetened paste of ground azuki beans available in smooth (koshi-an) and crunchy [chunky] (tsubuan or tsubushi-an). Sarashi-an: A our of ground azuki beans. Also known as hong dow (China), dried red beans, red beans [adzuki beans, aduki beans]. See also: Red bean paste, sweet. Bean curd: Also known as dou-fu, dow foo (China); tahu (Indonesia), momen tofu, tofu (Japan); ta hu, ta hua (Malaysia); tahure (Philippines); tauhu kau (Thailand); dau hu, dau hu chung (Vietnam); bean custard, soybean cake. Illust of: Fried bean curd, pressed bean curd. Almond bean curd (non-soy). Bean curd brains: Also known as doufu nao (China); taho (Philippines). Cotton bean curd: Also known as momen tofu (Japan). Freeze-dried bean curd: Also known as char doufu, doufu pok (China); agedofu, atsuage, nama-age (Japan); tauhu tod (Thailand), dau hu chien (Vietnam). Fried bean curd pouches: Also known as aburage, usuage (Japan). Gan modoki. Grilled bean curd: Also known as doufu kan [sic], gone (China); yakidofu (Japan). Instant bean curd. Okara. Pressed bean curd: Also known as doufu kan (China), taukwa, tauhu kuning (pressed yellow bean curd) (Indonesia, Malaysia); tokwa (Philippines); tauhu leong (Thailand); dau hu ki (Vietnam). Silk bean curd: Also know as kinugoshi tofu (Japan), shui doufu (China), taho (Philippines). Contains a recipe for homemade Bean Curd plus 3 recipes. Bean curd by-products: Bean curd skin [yuba], bean curd sticks: Also known as fu jook pin, gee jook (China), yuba (Japan), forng ta ohu [tauhu] (Thailand); rolled bean
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curd, second bamboo. Fermented bean curd: Also known as foo yu, fu-ru, narm yu (China), tahoe, tahu (Indonesia, Malaysia), tausi (Philippines), bean curd cheese, Chinese cheese, pickled bean curd, red bean curd, soybean cheese. Moldy bean curd. Bean curd cheese: See bean curd byproducts (fermented). Bean pastes and sauces: Shih and jiang from China: (1) Bean sauce (jiang) also known as taucheo or tau sa (Malaysia, Nonya and Singapore cooking), mien see [mian shi] (China), taoco [Pron. = tao-cho] (Indonesia), tuong ot (Vietnam), bean paste, brown bean sauce, yellow bean sauce. (2) Black bean sauce (a recent addition to the family of Chinese sauces. A major ingredient is pured fermented black beans with a hint of garlic and star anise. It tastes best when freshly made). (3) Chili bean paste (in addition to chopped dried chilies, it sometimes contains fermented black beans): Also known as lat chu jeung, as lat chu jeung yau (Garlic) (China); kochujang (Korea); bean paste with chili; hot bean paste; Sichuan hot bean paste. (4) Dhwen-Jang (Korea). See also miso. (5) Hoisin sauce (China): A sweet, thick, reddish brown sauce. One ingredient is fermented soybean paste. Not to be confused with the Chinese barbecue sauce called sha cha jang. Also known as hoi sin cheung (China); barbecue sauce. (5) Soybean paste. Also known as mean see jiang (China). (6) Sweet bean paste. In this context it is not the sweet bean paste made from azuki beans, but rather a sweet, thick, dark brown sauce made of ground fermented soybeans and sugar. Its salty-sweet avor is used in marinades and roast meats. Also known as tim mean jiang (China). Bean sprout: Mung bean sprouts, silver sprouts (mung bean sprouts with the roots and seed pods removed), soybean sprouts. Also known as: Daai dau nga choy (soybean sprout), ngunn nga choy (silver sprouts), nga choy, sai dau nga choy (mung bean sprout) (China); tauge (Indonesia); moyashi (Japan); kacang ijo, kacang djong, kacang padi (Malaysia); togue (Philippines); taun gawk (Thailand); gia (Vietnam); bean shoots. Beijing duck sauce (recipe with cup sweet bean paste). Vietnamese-style Beijing duck sauce (with cup sweet soy saucekecap manis). Black bean: See Fermented black bean. Black bean sauce: See Bean pastes and sauces. Fermented black bean sauce. Black soybean: See soybean. Broad bean paste. Broad bean sauce: The best is made in Pixian, a city in Sichuan province, where it is used instead of soybean-based seasoning sauces. Brown bean sauce: See Bean pastes and sauces. Che hau sauce (Che how, China): See Bean pastes and sauces (Hoisin). Chick-pea. China: Has the oldest and most well-documented cuisine in the world. Chinese cheese: See Bean curd byproducts (fermented). Chinese hot bean paste: See Bean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU pastes and sauces. Dau hu (Dow hoo, Vietnam): See bean curd. Dau hu chien (Dow hoo chee-ian, Vietnam): See Bean curd, fried. Dau hu chung (Dow hoo chee-ung, Vietnam): See Bean curd. Dau hu ki (Dow hoo kee, Vietnam): See Bean curd, pressed. Dengaku (plus recipe). Dhwen-jang (Dwen-jang, Korea). Similar to Chinese soybean paste or Japanese akadashi miso. Also known as Korean bean paste. Doufou Kan [doufu gan], China: Bean curd (grilled, pressed). Dou-fu (Dau-fu, China). See Bean curd. Doufu nao (Daufu-nou, China): See Bean curd brains. Doufu pok (daufu pork, China). See bean curd, fried. Dow foo (dau fu, China): See Bean curd. Edamame (e dah ma meh, Japan): See soy bean. Fermented bean curd: See Bean curd by-products. Fermented bean curd cake. See Bean curd by-products; tempe. Fermented black beans (Shih, China). With recipe for Fermented black bean sauce (p. 106). Also known as dau see (China), black beans, dried black beans, preserved back beans. Fermented red rice. Flours and thickeners: Kuzu (Japan). Mung bean our. Soy our (incl. kinako). Foo yu (Fu you, China). See Bean curd by-products (fermented). Forng Tao Hu (Fong tao huu, Thailand). See Bean curd by-products, bean curd sticks. Fu jook pin (Fu juk pin, China): See beancurd by-products, bean curd skin. Fu-ru (Fu yue). Gee Jook (Ji Juk, China): Bean curd sticks. Gluten: Kau fu, kohana fu, matsutake fu, mein jin pau, nama fu, su tang, yaki fu. Also known as: Kau fu, mianjin, mein jin pau, su tang (China), kohana fu, yaki fu (Japan). Gochujang (Korea). See also: Chili paste, chili sauce. Korean barbecue sauce. Grilled bean curd: See Bean curd, grilled. Hatcho miso: See miso, Hatcho. Hot bean paste. Hot black bean sauce. Inaka miso: See miso. Japan: Japanese cooks revel in the artistry of their craft. The Japanese love of nature is a challenge to present each ingredient as reminder of its origins: to bring nature to the table..., Regional cuisines are not of great importance in Japan; cooking methods (incl. Dengaku), salting (incl. Teriyaki), cutting and slicing techniques. Kecap asin (Ket-chup a-seen, Indonesia): See Soy sauce, sweet and salty. Kecap cair (cha-ear, Malaysia): See soy sauce, light. Kecap hitam (Indonesia): See soy sauce, sweet and salty. Kecap ikan (Indonesia): See Fish sauce. Kecap manis (mah-niece, Indonesia): See Soy sauce, sweet and salty. Kecap petis (pet-is, Indonesia): See sh sauce. Kinugoshi tofu (Japan): See Bean curd, silk. Kochujang (go-choo jang, Korea): See Bean pastes and sauces; chili pastes. Koikuchi shoyu (Japan): See soy sauce. Continued. Address: Author of several books on Asian cuisine.
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609. Passmore, Jacki. 1991. The encyclopedia of East Asian food and cooking (Document part II). New York, NY: William Morrow. 320 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [44 ref] Summary: Continued from p. 153: Korean bean paste: See Dhwen jang. Koshi-an (Japan): See Azuki beans (an). Koya tofu (Japan): See Bean curd, freeze-dried [sic]. Kuzu (Japan): See Flours and thickeners. Lentil (Lens esculenta): Red lentil, Red mung beans. Light soy sauce: See Soy sauce. Lu soy (lo shui, China): See soy sauce. Maltose: Made by fermenting germinated grains of barley. When used to glaze foods, may have soy sauce and red food coloring added. Also known as: Malt sugar, [barley malt syrup]. Ma-po dofu [Mabo-dofu]: See beef. Mean see jiang [mian shi jiang] (min see jiang, China): See Bean pastes and sauces. Mein jin pau [mien jin pau] (China): See Gluten. Mianjin (China): Gluten. Mien see (mien-si [mian shi], China): See Bean pastes and sauces. Miso (Japan): (1) Hatcho-miso. (2) Inaka miso or Sendai miso. Also known as Red miso. (3) Shinshu miso. (4) Shiro miso. Mochi. Monosodium glutamate. Also known as: Mei jing (China); aji-no-moto (Japan); servuk perasa (Malaysia); ve tsin (Vietnam), M.S.G., taste essence, taste powder. Moyashi (Japan): See Bean sprout. Mung bean. Also known as moong ke dal (India); kacang djong, kacang eedjo [hijau, katjang idjo] (Indonesia); kacang hiau (Malaysia); tau ngok (Thailand); dau xanh (Vietnam); green gram. Nama-age (nah-mah ah-geh, Japan): See Bean curd, deep fried. Nama fu (Japan): Raw / uncooked wheat gluten. Natto (Japan). See soybean. Noodles: (1) Bean curd noodles (China). Also known as Soy noodles, soy vermicelli. Oils and fats: Soybean oil. (2) Bean curd skin noodles (China) [yuba noodles]. Peanut (with many foreign names and recipes). Preserved black beans: See Fermented black beans. Pressed bean curd: See Bean curd (pressed). Red bean paste, sweet: An important ingredient in Chinese and Japanese cooking, sweet red bean paste is made by boiling the red azuki bean and mashing it to a paste with lard or oil, then cooking it until it is fairly dry or thick. In Japan, red bean paste is made in two textures: the smooth pure is koshi-an and the chunky version, with the beans only partly crushed, is tsubushi-an. It is a lling for cakes and sweet buns, and is used in several desserts. Also known as hong dow sar (China), an (Japan). Contains a recipe for Sweet red bean paste. Red rice: See Fermented red rice.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Rice: Many type of glutinous and non-glutinous. Rolled bean curd: See Bean curd sticks [dried yuba]. Seaweed: Many different types. Seaweed gelatin or Seaweed jelly: See agar agar. Sendai miso (Japan): See miso. Sesame seed: Black sesame seed, sesame oil, sesame paste, white sesame seed. Shinshu miso (Japan). Shui doufu (China): See bean curd (silk). Silk bean curd: See Bean curd (silk). Soybean (Glycine max): (1) Black soybeans. (2) Fresh soybeans [edamame]. (3) Yellow soybeans. Soybean cheese: See Bean curd, fermented [fermented tofu]. Soybean condiment: See Bean pastes and sauces. Soybean milk. Also known as tau cheing, tau ni (China). With homemade soymilk recipe. Soybean noodle: See Noodles, bean curd. Soybean oil: See fats and oils. Soybean paste: See Bean pastes and sauces. Soybean sprout: See bean sprout. Soy our: See Flours and thickeners. Soy sauce: An ancient seasoning, rst used in China more than 3,000 years ago. Known in its original form as shih, it was a thin salty liquid in which oated fragments of fermented soybeans. Soy sauce is to Chinese and Japanese cooking what the pungent, salty sh sauce known as nam pla or nuoc mam is to Thailand and Vietnam respectively. (1) Dark soy sauce. Also known as jang yau, see yau (China); koikuchi shoyu, tamari (Japan), kecap pekat (Malaysia); mushroom soy. (2) Light soy sauce: Thinner, saltier, and lighter in color and avor. It is used in cooking where its light color will not spoil the color of the ingredients. Also known as sang chau, see yau (China), shoyu, usukuchi shoyu (Japan), kecap cair (Malaysia), toyo (Philippines), nam siew (Thailand), xi dau (Vietnam), thin soy sauce. (3) Lu soy (China) is a master sauce based on soy sauce with sugar, ginger, and ve-spice, It is used for simmering poultry and other meats to give a rich avor and to color the food a deep brown. Also known as lu shui (China). Soy sauce, sweet and salty: (1) Kecap asin (Indonesia) is a thick, salty, dark soy-based sauce used to impart a strong color and avor. Its sweet counterpart is kecap manis. It is similar to, but thicker than, several dark soy sauces used in Chinese cooking. (2) Kecap hitam (Malaysia) is a sweet dark soy sauce. Slightly less spicy than kecap manis. (3) Kecap manis (Indonesia) is a sweet, dark, thick, aromatic soy sauce, especially widely used with satay. It is similar to, though ner in avor than, Chinese sweet soy sauce [tian mian jiang]. Also known as kecap bentang manis (Indonesia); sweet soy sauce. (4) Sweet soy sauce (China) is a dark, sweet sauce combining soy sauce, sugar, and malt sugar. Its distinctive malt-like taste goes well as a dip for fried snacks, poultry, and seafood. It appears frequently on the table in homes and restaurants in Fukien province, opposite Taiwan on the coast of south-eastern China. For a recipe, see Sweet soy sauce pork (p. 230). Note: This is not generally a commercial product. (5) Tim cheong (Malaysia)
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is a thick, sweet, black soy sauce, similar to that used in China. In Malaysia it is served with poh pia. Its avor is closer to that of kecap hitam than to kecap manis. Sprouts, soybean. See Bean sprout, soybean. Sushi (describes many types, with recipes). Sweet bean paste or Sweet bean sauce: See Bean pastes and sauces. Taho (Philippine bean curd brains). Tahoe (Indonesia or Malaysia, fermented bean curd). Tahu (Malaysia bean curd). Ta hua (Malaysia bean curd). Tahure (Philippine bean curd). Tamari (Japan): See soy sauce. Taucheo (Malaysia or Singapore, bean pastes and sauces). Tauge (Indonesia bean sprout). Tauhu kao (Thailand bean curd). Tauhu kuning (Indonesia and Malaysia bean curd pressed). Tauhu leong (Thailand bean curd, pressed). Tauhu tod (Thailand bean curd, fried). Taukwa (Indonesia and Malaysia bean curd pressed). Tau sa (Malaysia bean paste and sauces). Tausi (Philippines, bean curd products, fermented). Tempe (Indonesia, Malaysia): Fermented soybean cake [tempeh]. Oncom [Ontjom]. Tokwa (Philippine bean curd pressed). Tosa soy sauce (Japan): The classic sashimi accompaniment. Recipe given. Tsukemono: Takuan, umeboshi. Usu-age (Japan): See Bean curd (fried) purses. Winged bean. Yuba (Japan). Brief biography: For more than twenty years she has been professionally involved with Asian food as a writer, teacher, publicist, researcher, consultant, and, of course, cook. She has traveled extensively in Asia and lived in Hong Kong for more than ten years, working as a food writer on a number of newspapers and magazines, which led to a career as a food consultant. Her most recent book, Asia the Beautiful Cookbook was listed by Publishers Weekly as one of the best books of 1987. Address: Author of several books on Asian cuisine. 610. Yokotsuka, Tamotsu. 1991. Proteinaceous fermented foods and condiments prepared with koji molds. In: Dilip K. Arora; K.G. Mukerji; E.H. Marth, eds. 1991. Handbook of Applied Mycology. Vol. 3: Foods and Feeds. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker, Inc. x + 621 p. See p. 329-73. Chap. 11. [118 ref] Summary: Contains a great deal of very interesting information. Contents: 1. Introduction. 2. Fermented soybean foods in East and Southeast Asia: A. Douchi (China), Hamanatto (Japan), and in-yu (Taiwan). B. Shuidouchi (Shandong province, China), thua-nao (Thailand), kinema (Nepal), and natto (itohiki natto) (Japan). C. Tempe [Tempeh] and Oncom [Onchom] (Indonesia) (Making soybean tempe, volatile avor of tempe, chemical composition and nutritional value of tempe, tempe bonkrek). D. Fermented tou-fu (soybean curd) products: Sufu (China and Taiwan), Tofuyo (Okinawa, Japan). 3. Fermented salty condiments in a slurry or paste made
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU from soybeans and cereals: A. Doujiang (touchiang) (China) and Tauco [taucho] (Southeast Asia). B. Doubanjiang (Toupanchiang). C. Tianmianjiang (Tienmienchiang). D. Gochujiang and Doenjang (Korea). E. Hishio (Japan). F. Miso (Japan) (Production and consumption of miso, making rice miso and barley miso). 4. Fermented salty liquid condiments made from soybeans and cereals: A. Japanese shoyu (Manufacture of koikuchi and usukuchi shoyu, manufacture of tamari shoyu). B. Soy sauce produced in east and southeast Asian countries other than Japan (Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, Malaysia, Indonesia, Thailand, Peoples Republic of China {the process, acid hydrolysis illegal until recently}, chijhi or whole soybean soy sauce still made in the basins of the Zhujiang {Pearl} River and the Huanghe {Yellow} River). 5. Biochemistry involved in shoyu and miso manufacture: A. Selection of raw materials. B. Contribution of improved cooking methods of raw materials to increase the enzymatic protein digestibility. C. Selection and improvement of koji molds. D. Improvement in koji making. E. Microbial and chemical control of salty mash fermentation. F. Flavor evaluation of koikuchi shoyu. G. Stability of color of pasteurized shoyu. H. Nutritional concern about shoyu and miso (salt content). Safety of koji molds and shoyu (aatoxins). 6. Conclusion. Tables show: (1) Chemical composition of kinema, thuanao, and douchi. (2) Changes in nitrogenous compounds during Natto Fermentation. (3) Changes of nitrogen compounds in sufu making. (4) Constituents of some types of miso. (5) Chemical composition of various kinds of genuine fermented shoyu in Japan. (6) Effect of cooking conditions of thoroughly moistened defatted soybean grits on the enzymatic digestibility of protein. (7) Differences between A. oryzae and A. sojae used for shoyu fermentation. (8) Proteinases produced by Aspergillus sojae. (9) Enzyme composition of koji as inuenced by the difference of material. (10) Various metabolic patterns by lactobacilli in shoyu mash. (11) Digestiblilities of protein in shoyu, miso, natto, and tempe fermentations. (12) Results of quantitative analysis of avor constituents in koikuchi shoyu. Figures show: (1) Flow sheet of tempe making. (2) Flow diagram of sufu making. (3) Diagram of rice-miso fermentation. (4) Diagram of koikuchi shoyu fermentation. (5) Tamari-shoyu fermentation. (6) Microora changes in shoyu mash fermentation. (7) Classication of Aspergilli. (8) Fermented foods and condiments made from soybeans mixed with or without cereal grains or our. Concerning shuidouchi: Boiled soybeans are inoculated with Bacillus subtilis and incubated at high humidity and at 30-40C. This preference for a high temperature may be why the Chi-min yao-shu (6th century China) recommended that, when making douchi [soy nuggets], the temperature during incubation be kept rather low. In Shandong, China, salted soy
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nuggets are made as follows: Clean, soak, and boil soybeans until soft. Place in a cloth bag and cover with straw, which is the best natural source of B. subtilis. After incubation for 1-2 days at 25-30C the soybeans will be covered with viscous substances. Mix the sticky soybeans with minced ginger and salt, then pack tightly into jars, and age for one week. They are now ready to consume (See references 5 and 6). Address: Research Div., Kikkoman Corp., Noda City, Chiba prefecture, Japan. 611. Parks, Tom. 1992. Plans to use soybeans and soyfoods in the NASA lunar module (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Jan. 23. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: In 10-15 years NASA (the North American Space Administration, funded by the U.S. federal government) is planning to launch a lunar module, which will be composed of various modular living capsules roughly 48 feet long and 14 feet in diameter. These will be assembled on the surface of the moon, and the structure will be inhabited by 8-15 people at a time. As with a space station, different groups of people will come and go from the module. Inside this module NASA plans to grow soybean plants hydroponically. They will then harvest the beans, save some of them for planting the next crop, and consume the rest as food in forms such as green vegetable soybeans, soy sprouts, tofu, and fermented tofu used like a cheese spread. Tom is developing these food uses. One key consideration is that the residents of the module are expected to want something to do, such as processing and cooking foods. The programs headquarters are at NASA-Ames in Sunnyvale; ask for the Education Desk. Address: Food and AgroSystems, P.O. Box 62185, Sunnyvale, California 94088. Phone: 408-245-8450. 612. Eng, Wun-hong. 1992. The invention of fermented tofu, fu-yu, in southern China (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Feb. 17. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: Mr. Eng is the son of Bing-sun Eng, who (with a partner, Tao-yee Kok) founded Fong-On tofu company in New York City on 29 June 1933. The story of the discovery of fermented tofu was well known among tofu makers from southern China. When he was a boy, Mr. Eng heard this story from Mr. Law (or Lo), a 70-year-old Chinese seaman (from Xinhui) who taught his father how to make tofu and who jumped ship to work in restaurants in New York City. The seamans brothers are still making tofu in Xinhui, and his great-grandson still lives in New York City. According to this story, fermented tofu was invented by a 9 year old beggar boy from the Sun-Wei (pinyin: Xinhui. The Chinese characters are new + meeting or group) district of Kwangtung province, China, not too far from Toisan (or Hoisan in his dialect; Pinyin: Taishan. Chinese characters: platform + mountain). One day this boy went to a tofu shop and begged for some tofu. The owners wife
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU gave him 2 pieces. He went back to his little hut, ate one piece, and saved the other in his rice bowl to eat the next day. But the next day the tofu had mold on it, so he put salt on it. To further preserve it, he went to a temple where the worshippers were making offerings of rice wine by sprinkling the wine. He gathered some banana leaves and laid them on the ground to catch the rice wine. Then he collected this rice wine and poured it over his tofu in the bowl. All of the companies that make fermented tofu and all of the Jiang Gardens in Kwangtung province have an altar dedicated to this little beggar boywho married a widow and died at age 33 from tuberculosis in China. On the 1st and 15th day of each month, a cup of tea was placed on the altar in remembrance of the little beggar boy. In the 1930s, these altars were said to have existed for 10-15 generations (200350 years). On each altar is a plaque (to honor him) on which is written Six Original Great King (Lu-Oh Tai-Wang), because he invented six important Chinese foods. Mr. Eng does not know when the beggar boy lived, and he has never seen the story written down. This same little boy is said to have invented a number of other important Chinese foods, such as duck sauce (ssumai jiang; Chinese characters: 8 + treasure + thick sauce. He found a molded food that had been discarded in the market, then preserved it in a salt solution and sweetened it with boiled sweet potatoes. He must have put 8 ingredients in it; when he ate it, it cured his bloated stomach in 7 days), 1000-year-old eggs (he salvaged them from a farmhouse where there was a re), and fermented sweet bean sauce (tao-jiung, a lumpy soft paste made from roasted soybeans and rice, with a little whiskey). Mr. Eng also feels that Lord Liu An of Huai-Nan was not the one who invented tofu; it was his cook! A high ofcial in China would never go to the kitchen, lest he loose face. Update: On 19 July 1994 Mr. Wun Eng sent to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center an illustration (line drawing) of a vertical wooden plaque on an altar inscribed with 6 Chinese characters, set behind a pot of incense, in front of which is a cup of tea. The characters mean: Inventor of Six. Great King. Spirit Place. He wrote: The above is what my father had in the store on the rst and fteenth day of each month. I light the incense, change the tea in the cup, and kow-tow (bow) 3 times. Address: 180 Park Row, Apt. 4B, New York City, NY 10038. Phone: 212-267-6972. 613. Kristof, Nicholas D. 1992. Taipeis unsettled soul: Hectic but compelling, it is more Chinese, in some ways, than mainland cities. New York Times. April 26. p. XX15. Summary: Taipei is the capital of Taiwan. Behind the citys main streets are small alleys that here and there. Its worth wandering around these back lanes, following your nose:... to the appalling stench of chou tofu, or stinking bean curd,
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which is sold by private vendors. Chou tofu is culinarily remarkable in that it is not only awful-tasting but also smells repulsive from 100 feet away. 614. Yasuda, Masaaki; Sakaguchi, M.; Otonari, H.; Okuhama, S.; Kinjyo, S.; Hongo, F.; Toyama, S. 1992. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo no seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. VII. Tofu kanso kotei ni okeru biseibutsu no hatasu yakuwari [Studies on the manufacture of tofuyo in Okinawa. VII. The role of microorganisms during dehydration of tofu cubes]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 39(10):870-77. [17 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Tofuyo is a unique type of fermented tofu made in Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. It is made from partially dehydrated tofu cubes fermented in moromi (mash) of red rice koji, salt and awamori (distilled liquor). The quality of the nished product is always affected by the quality of the tofu cubes, which are always dehydrated at room temperature. Microorganisms (mainly bacteria) which grow on the surface of the cubes are thought to play an important role in the process. These bacteria were screened to nd what species and strains / varieties produced high proteinase enzyme activity. Bacillus TYO-67 was found to have by far the greatest enzyme activity. After tofu cubes were inoculated with this strain, changes in the protein and nitrogen composition of the cubes during dehydration at room temperature were measured. Cubes which were uninoculated were used as a control. The pure protein content of the inoculated cubes was lower than that of those which were not inoculated; thus, the former were considered more digested / hydrolyzed than the latter. The values of water soluble nitrogen, 4% trichloracetate soluble nitrogen, and 75% ethyl alcohol soluble nitrogen to total nitrogen and free amino acids of the cubes all increased during dehydration, and the increases in the inoculated cubes were greater than in those which were not inoculated. The ripening time of the inoculated cubes was shorter than that of the cubes which were not inoculated. Therefore, we can say that dehydration of tofu cubes at room temperature is a sort of prefermentation by bacteria in the process of making tofuyo. Tables show: (1) Proteinase activity of various bacteria isolated from the surface of tofu cubes. (2) Changes of free amino acids composition of tofu cubes which were either inoculated or not inoculated with Bacillus TYO-67. Figures (graphs) show: (1) Changes is moisture content and pH of tofu cubes during dehydration for 60 hours. The moisture decreased and the pH increased. (2) Changes in the pure protein content of inoculated and uninoculated tofu cubes during dehydration. Both decreased but that of the inoculated cubes decreased slightly faster. (3) Changes in the content of water soluble nitrogen, 4% trichloro acetic acid soluble nitrogen, and ethyl alcohol soluble nitrogen of
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU inoculated and noninoculated tofu cubes during dehydration. All increased but that of the inoculated cubes increased faster. (4) Changes in the hardness of tofuyo during a ripening period of 150 days. That made from inoculated tofu cubes decreased faster than that made from uninoculated cubes. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 615. Tu-Bich-Thuy. 1992. The current status of soybean production in South Viet Nam. Palawija News (Bogor, Indonesia) 9(4):1-7. Dec. Summary: Contents: Soybean producing areas in South Viet Nam: Dong Nai Province (this area in eastern South Viet Nam supplies 25% of the nations soybeans), Mekong River delta. Technical aspects of soybean production (in each of the two regions mentioned above): Land preparation, fertilizer use, varieties, weeds, pests and diseases, cropping patterns, mixed cropping with maize, soybean before tobacco, economic efciency. Soybean utilization in Viet Nam: Utilization as food (80% of the crop is used to produce soybean curd, fermented soybean curd, soybean milk, soybean meal and small quantities of soybean oil), utilization for soybean glue, utilization as stock feed, utilization as fertilizer. Policies necessary for the development of soybean production in South Viet Nam: Governments role in soybean production. Production constraints. Research activities conducted to date by U.A.F. Concluding remarks. Future research activities of the U.A.F. 616. Berk, Zeki. 1992. Technology of production of edible ours and protein products from soybeans. FAO Agricultural Services Bulletin No. 97. 178 p. [173 ref] Summary: Contents: Foreword. 1. The soybean: Background, production, marketing, agricultural characteristics, physical characteristics and morphology of the soybean, chemical composition (moisture, proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, minerals). 2. Utilization of soybeans: Utilization options for soybeans, whole bean utilization, the oil mill route (utilization of the oil fraction, utilization of the meal fraction). 3. Oil-mill operations: The expeller (operation principles, advantages and disadvantages of the expeller process, equipment), the solvent extraction process (operation principles, receiving and storage of soybeans, preparation for extraction, solvent extraction, postextraction operations). 4. Edible soybean ours and grits: Introduction, denitions, composition and quality parameters (denition and classication of edible soy ours and grits, composition, quality standards), full fat soy our and grits (production processes, utilization), defatted soy ours and grits (production processes, utilization). 5. Soybean protein concentrates (SPC): Introduction, denition, composition, types, production processes (the aqueous alcohol wash process, the acid-wash process, heat denaturation/water extraction process), utilization (basic considerations,
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use in bakery products, meat products, other uses). 6. Isolated soybean protein (ISP): Introduction, denition, composition, types, production processes (conventional process, problems in conventional processing, alternative processes), utilization (meat products, seafood products, cereal products, dairy-type products, infant formulas, other uses). 7. Textured soy protein products: Introduction, spunbre based texturization, extrusion texturization, steam texturization, utilization (meat extenders, meat analogs, other applications). 8. Soymilk and related products: Introduction, composition and classication, production processes (the traditional process, the Soya Technology System (STS) Process, the INTSOY (Illinois) process, the Buhler Process for soy micro-powder), soymilk related products. 9. Tofu, tempeh, soysauce and miso: Introduction, soy sauce, miso, tempeh, tofu (Introduction, regular and silken tofu, kori-tofu, deep-fried tofu, fermented tofu). Appendixes: I. Standards and specications. II. Organizations and government agencies. III. Manufacturers and suppliers of soybean processing plants and equipment. IV. Sample budget quotations for complete soy processing or soybean related food manufacturing plants. Address: TechnionIsrael Inst. of Technology, Haifa, Israel. 617. Cardenas, Danilo C.; Legaspi, Benjamin M. 1992. The status of soybean production and utilization in the Philippines. In: Increasing Soybean Production in Asia: Proceedings of a Workshop. 1992. Bogor, Indonesia: CGPRT Centre. 187 p. See p. 119-35. Held 21-24 Aug. 1990 at Phitsanulok, Thailand. [8 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Production situation: Production trends, economics of soybean production, price trends, marketing of soybean. Philippine foreign trade situation: Soybean imports, soybean exports. Soybean utilization. Government policies/programs affecting the industry: Policies, programs. Major problems besetting the local soybean industry. Conclusions. The soybean, also know locally as utao, has become an increasingly important economic crop in the Philippines. Yet in 1987 (the latest year for which gures are given) only 5,698 tonnes (metric tons) were harvested from 6,490 hectares, having a value of 45,169,000 pesos. This represented only 0.02% of the total Philippine quantity of agricultural production, and only 0.05% of total farm area and value. Philippine soybean production peaked at 11,466 tonnes in 1982. Most of the countrys soybeans are grown in the southern Mindanao region (72.1%), followed by northern Mindanao (10.0%) and central Mindanao (9.4%). Imports of soybeans and products have steadily increased since Philippine farmers do not produce enough soybeans to meet local demands; the value (FOB US$) rising from $61,989,000 in 1980 to $127,981,000 in 1988. The main imports are soybean meal (accounting for 86.87% of total import value), rened soybean oil (5.19%), soybeans
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (4.18%), and crude soybean oil (223%). Before March 1986 the National Food Authority (NFA) had the sole authority to import soybeans, but with the introduction of the trade liberalization program, importation has reverted to private rms. In 1989 the countrys major sources of imported soybeans were China (which supplied 42% of total imports), Brazil (34%), and the USA (15%). Exports, which are negligible, have grown from $136,000 to 1,123,000 during the same period. The main exports are soy sauce (accounting for 91.03% of total value), salted and fermented soybeans (tausi, 3.34%), and soybeans (2.65%). Table 7 lists and describes Soybean-based food products popularly used in the Philippines. Fermented products include soy sauce, salted and fermented soybean (tausi), tempe (tempeh), soybean paste (miso), and soybean curd (fermented tofu cubes; a soft cheese-type product with a salty but mild avor, eaten as a relish or cooked with meat and vegetables). Non-fermented products include soybean sprouts (toge), soybean cheese (tokwa [tofu]), Geerlings cheese (taho, soymilk curds; a sweet dessert or snack food for children), soybean milk, and roasted soybean (soy coffee). In terms of food usage, Filipinos, unlike other Asians, have not developed a taste for soya-based products... Most of the soy products available in the market are either made at home or in family-operated shops. It is interesting to note from the report of Co (1987) that small scale food processors engaged in manufacture of taho and tokwa preferred locally grown beans to imported ones. They claimed that local soybeans have a distinctive fresh quality which imparts a ner and smoother texture to their nished products providing a longer shelf life than that produced from imported beans. Recently, several developments in the local economy have signaled a revival of interest in the use of soybean as food. In 1980 Nestle Philippines Incorporated began commercial production of powdered soymilk products and later a baby soya-cereal food formulation and a soyabased meat extender which is produced primarily for export to other Asian countries. Today Nestle Philippines, in co-operation with the Land Bank of the Philippines, the Regional Ofces of the Department of Agriculture and PCARRD is encouraging local production of soybean and had adopted a no importation policy. Some years ago, the use of TVP also gained a permanent foothold in the local processing industry. It is used in the manufacture of ground meat products and as a meat extender. Almost all TVP used in the country is imported except for the locally manufactured full-fat TVP which is being produced by the Vitarich Corporation, one of the biggest feed millers in the country. The company has built a full-fat soya processing plant capable of utilizing 900 MT [metric tons] of soybean per month. Unfortunately, all its raw soybean requirements are imported from the U.S. and
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China. Soybean our, protein concentrate and protein isolates are the newest soya-based products and are now used extensively in the country for the formulation of meat emulsion products. All raw materials are imported and there is no local manufacturing capability at present. Programmes: As early as the 1970s, the government tried to involve itself to some degree in boosting national soybean output, despite the low priority it accorded to soybean in general. It was an involvement borne out of an urgent need to meet the growing requirements of the local feed milling and livestock industry, rather than of a need to address the high incidence of malnutrition among Filipinos. Accordingly, the government launched a number of programmes to improve soybean production, most of which failed to achieve their goals. At present, only the PCARRD-coordinated Soybean Pilot Production Programme continues to function. This programme was initiated in late 1983. Address: 1. Supervising Science Research Specialist, Philippine Council for Agriculture, Forestry, and Natural Resources Research and Development (PCARRD); 2. Dep. of Agriculture Bureau of Plant Industry, Los Baos National Crop Research and Development Centre. Both: The Philippines. 618. Tu, Bich-Thuy. 1992. The current status of soybean production in South Viet Nam. In: Increasing Soybean Production in Asia: Proceedings of a Workshop. 1992. Bogor, Indonesia: CGPRT Centre. 187 p. See p. 151-65. Held 21-24 Aug. 1990 at Phitsanulok, Thailand. [3 ref] Summary: Contents: Soybean producing areas in South Viet Nam. Technical aspects of soybean production. Soybean utilization in Viet Nam. Policies necessary for the development of soybean production in South Viet Nam. Production constraints. Research activities conducted to date by U.A.F. Concluding remarks. Future research activities of U.A.F. Suggestions for future research. Utilization as food: In Viet Nam 80% of the soybean crop is used to produce soybean curd, fermented soybean curd, soybean milk, soybean meal and small quantities of soybean oil. Although many factories in Ho Chi Minh City produce sesame, groundnut and coconut oils, soybean oil remains uncommon. Address: Univ. of Agricultural Forestry of South Viet Nam (UAF), Ho Chi Minh Coty, South Viet Nam. 619. Pinault, Pascal. 1993. Re: Work with tofu and tofu products in Martinique. Update on soyfoods in the Caribbean. Letters to William Shurtleff at Soyfoods Center, April 2 and 27. 4 p. and 5 p. Handwritten, with signature. Plus list of his products and prices, resum, and photos of his home, equipment, and Morne-Vert. Summary: Pascal saw and ate tofu for the rst time in May 1980 when he was living in India, while visiting some
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU friends in Poona (Maharashtra). He bought 1 pound of tofu at a tofu shop but he is not sure if they were making the tofu in a back room of the shop or at some other place. I suppose this tofu manufacturing plant in Poona was an offshoot of the Rajneesh Ashram, which was very active at that time and place. Pascal lived in Goa, south of Bombay, from 19761980; there he baked bread leavened with palm wine. He learned most of what he knows about soyfoods while living and working, mostly in health food stores or health farms (see attached resume), in the Catskill Mountains area of New York from 1981 to 1987. There he learned to make tofu for his personal use (not for sale) by adding lemon juice to hot soymilk then pressing it in a cloth. During two other trips to India in 1982-83 and 1986 he found and bought chunks of a dry soy protein product resembling TVP which must be cooked in water. He found this soy protein product very interesting for a country like India which has such a shortage of protein, however the price was highabout 10 rupees/kg compared with 2 rupees/kg for wheat. In Jan. 1988 he and his family moved to Martinique. I was compelled to make tofu for myself and my family because there was no other vegetable protein available in Martinique, except for this chunky TVP. I was still using lemon juice instead of nigari and making 2 pounds of tofu at a time. Then in 1991, as I started to import Japanese food products from France (umeboshi, seaweeds, amasak, etc.), I ordered a small booklet on making tofu using nigari. Plus I had an excellent book (Les Aliments Ferments Traditionnels, by Claude Aubert [1985]) in which I found recipes and nutritional details on many foods like tofu, okara, sufu, tempeh, amasak, and, in general, all the foods subjected to lactic acid fermentation. In Martinique he has been making an average of 12 to 20 pounds of tofu every week since Oct. 1991 when he moved with his family to mountainous Morne Vert. Occasionally he makes larger amounts for a health food store that sells it or when he caters for groups. His main work is to introduce and popular tofu and soyfoods in Martinique. He would like to expand his tofu and vegetarian traiteur (catering) business; his main problem is lack of funds, so he plans to apply for nancial aid. The water he uses to make his tofu comes straight from a spring a mile up in a beautiful mahogany forest. He also makes sproutsmostly alfalfa, mung bean, and clover, but sometimes wheat grass. He uses most of the tofu he makes to produce second generation products such as tofu mayonnaise, hot squash pies with miso-tofu topping, tofu & cocoa (or carob) sweet pie, tofu salad, spring rolls (Nems). I know of two vegetarian restaurants in town (Fort-deFrance) that make their own tofu and serve it to customers, but no one in Martinique uses tofu as extensively as I do, thanks to my 7 years stay in the Catskill Mountains. In fact, it takes a long time to get people used to tofu in an island where Creole culinary habits are still well-established.
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One of the restaurants that makes tofu is Le Second Soufe, owned by Mr. Gerard Sainte-Rose (27 Rue Blenac, 97200 Fort-de-France, Martinique, FWI 0033. Phone (596) 63-44-11). He has owned this vegetarian restaurant for quite a while now and is mostly interested in reviving the consumption of local fruits and vegetables. Gerard is the only person in Martinique that I actually saw growing and harvesting soy beans. That was 2 years ago. He had grown soybeans on a piece of agricultural land in Ducos, a town near Le Lamentin, which is not far from the capital city of Fort-de-France (Martinique). He got the soybean seeds from a friend in St. Lucia (a Caribbean island just south of Martinique). Mr. Sainte-Rose harvested only a few soybeans; they were small but healthy looking. He is an organic gardener who sells his products out of his restaurant. He presently has a 6 hectare farm were he grows organic vegetables for his restaurant. Two years ago we had an agreement to set up a tofu plant together in his restaurant. He promised me a job (thats when I gave him my recipes), and he even started to acquire some material for making tofu. But he never followed through. Thats when I started making tofu by myself, even without the proper material setting. He even bought some of my tofu. I think he would probably be interested in growing more soy, if approached very tactfully, and if he sees nancial interest without having to pay a counterpart. He is an interesting person with a lot of good ideas, but he tends to be hard to work with as a partner. On St. Lucia one can nd the Soy Place is Castries, the main town in St. Lucia They make tofu there, sell it, and cook it for the food-counter [take-out] part of the shop. People grow soy beans on St. Lucia and on Dominica, maybe with help from Canadians. They make tofu and cook it. One Ital rastafarian restaurant in Roseau, Dominica, serves tofu pt and deep-fried, plus accras (fried okara dumplings). In Dominica I heard of two other places where they make and serve tofu. Ital food, which has absolutely nothing to do with Italian food, is the name that the Rastafarians give to the main dish of their mostly vegetarian diet (except for sh). In this main dish, chunky textured vegetable protein is sometimes used in place of sh. In the Caribbean, including Martinique, Ital food is available in quite a few Rastafarian places, which they call their ghetto. These are restaurants open day and night that include reggae sound systems. The chunky TVP remains the main vegetable protein they use; they also use it in other dishes such as vegetarian cous-cous, etc. They are, in my experience, a bit hostile to tofu, seitan, or other such new foods, at least in Martinique; maybe when it comes from a white person they presume it is not vegetarian. He has heard of (but has not seen or tasted) smoked tofu dried over a re using green banana leaves. Pascal is interested in vegetarianism and macrobiotics. He likes tempeh and would like to start now to make and introduce it to Martinique, where it is totally unknown. Concerning seitan: I rst started to make seitan in
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Martinique under the same circumstances as tofulack of vegetable proteins other than beans. Not having ready-made gluten, I rst made it by washing white-our wheat dough. That was a very long and messy process but was well worth it. Then I found wheat gluten in the Tama cataloguethe company I mentioned that specializes in Japanese products. Thats when I started to sell seitanthough there is not much demand for it. I learned to make seitan while living in the Catskill mountains of New York from a macrobiotic British girl friend who also taught me how to make amazake. Update of April 27, 1993. Since my family sent me tempeh starter (thanks for giving them the address), I have started small-scale production. Update of July 17, 1993. I rst made amazak, in Martinique, in 1992. Even though I gave samples to quite a few people, nobody has seemed to be interested in this product, or to realize the versatility of it! So, I keep ordering it from Tama, packed in glass jars, and make my own once in a while, using Cold Mountain starter. Ive been a bit disappointed by this non-reaction. Amasak being one of my favorite sweeteners, which I value more than any breakfast or desert cereal. My youngest daughter ate it as a rst solid food when she was only 5 months old, along with bananas. If you allow me a personal remark about my work in Martinique, I nd it extremely ungratifying. The public here is highly suspicious of anything new and foreign. My little business doesnt allow me to assume my nancial obligations, and I sometimes consider going back to the U.S. But I still want to try harder, at least for a few months. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2010) that uses the term amasak to refer to amazake. Address: Caplet, 97226 Morne Vert, Martinique, French West Indies 0033. Phone: 596 55-56-57. 620. Yasuda, Masaaki; Matsumoto, T.; Sakaguchi, M.; Kobamoto, N. 1993. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo no seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. VIII. Monascus zoku kin o mochiita tofuyo no jukusei katei ni okeru kagaku seibun no henka [Studies on the manufacture of tofuyo in Okinawa. VIII. Changes in chemical components of tofuyo prepared by Monascus fungus during fermentation]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 40(5):331-38. [18 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Tofuyo is an excellent type of fermented tofu made in Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. Crude protein and crude fat contents of tofuyo decreased during ripening, but is reducing sugars increased. The sodium chloride (NaCl) content of the product remained almost constant at about 3%. Digestion of soybean protein was examined by slab polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis. Some polypeptide bands of soybean globulin, such as '-, -, beta-subunits in beta-conglycinin," an acidic subunit in glycinin in the waterinsoluble fraction of tofuyo disappeared after 3-months ripening, but that of the basic subunit in glycinin remained.
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The main constituent of the body of tofuyo was found to be the basic subunit in glycinin and other polypeptides (whose weight in kilodaltons is given). "The ratio of water soluble nitrogen to total nitrogen (called protein solubility ratio, or ripening ratio) reached" 36.3% after 3 months of ripening. "The ratio of trichloracetic acid soluble nitrogen to total nitrogen reached" 35.0% after 3 months of ripening. A table shows: Changes in the chemical composition of raw tofu, dehydrated tofu, tofuyo. and moromi (mash) prepared by Monascus fungus during ripening periods of 0-5 months. Figures (graphs) show: (1) Changes in ethyl alcohol concentration pH, activities of various enzymes (-amylase, glucoamylase, proteinase) in the moromi mash during ripening periods of 0-5 months. (2) Changes in pure protein content of tofuyo during ripening periods of 0-5 months; it decreased. (3) (3) Changes in protein solubility ratio of tofuyo during ripening periods of 0-5 months. (6) Changes in the ratio of trichloracetic acid-soluble nitrogen to the total nitrogen during ripening periods of 0-5 months. These nitrogen contents are shown on an oven dried basis. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 621. Macrae, R.; Robinson, R.; Sadler, M. 1993. Encyclopedia of Food Science, Food Technology and Nutrition. London: Academic Press Ltd. Illust. Index. 29 cm. Summary: A section titled Soya Cheeses by C.W. Hesseltine has the following contents: Introduction. Importance worldwide. Sufu (Chinese cheese): Introduction, preparation of curd, fermentation of curd, processing and aging, microorganisms, composition, enzymes involved, culinary use and preservation. Tofu: Introduction, process for making tofu, soya bean varieties and tofu consumption, microbiological safety of tofu, hydration, coagulation conditions, types and use of tofu. Other soya bean cheeselike products. 622. Hachmeister, Kathleen A.; Fung, Daniel Yee-Chak. 1993. Tempeh: A mold-modied indigenous fermented food made from soybeans and/or cereal grains. Critical Reviews in Microbiology 19(3):137-88. [185 ref] Summary: An excellent review of the literature. Contents: Introduction. Mold-modied indigenous fermented foods: Miso, shoyu (soy sauce), hamanatto, sufu, fermented rice (sierra rice), tap (lao-chao), ang-kak, ogi, tempeh, ontjom (oncom, lontjom), bongkrek (tempeh bongkrek), kenima. Processing developments in legume tempeh manufacture: Traditional tempeh fermentation, industrial production of tempeh, methods of preparation (cleaning, dehulling, hydration and acid fermentation, partial cooking, draining, cooling, and surface drying, inoculation, fermentation containers, incubation, harvesting, storage,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU and preservation, uses and preparation of tempeh). Organoleptic properties of tempeh. Microbiological aspects of legume tempeh: Microbial ecology, traditional and modern soaking methods, effect of soaking, acidication, and initial bean pH, effect of boiling prior to inoculation, effect of Klebsiella and Enterobacter, effect of lactic acid bacteria and yeasts, microbiological safety and quality, heating prior to consumption. Nutritional quality of legume tempeh. Chemical and biochemical changes in legume tempeh: Changes in protein and amino acids, changes in carbohydrates, changes in lipids, antioxidant potential, changes in minerals, changes in vitamins. Antinutritional factors associated with legumes: Flatulenceproducing factors, protease inhibitors, tannins, phytic acid, hemagglutinins, other antinutritional factors. Cereal grain tempehpractical applications: Background information, materials and methods, results and discussion, conclusions and future developments. Summary. References. Address: Dep. of Animal Sciences and Industry, Kansas State Univ., Manhattan, KS 66506. 623. Shi, Yanguo; Ren, Li. 1993. Dadou zhipin gongyi-xue [The technical arts of soybean products]. Beijing, China: Zhongguo Qinggong Yechu Banshe [Chinese Ministry of Light Industry]. xii + 484 p. Illust. No index. 18 cm. [34 ref. Chi] Summary: Wade-Giles reference: Ta-tou chih pin kung-i hseh, by Shi, Yen Kuo; Jn, Li. Contents: Preface. 1. Introduction to soyfoods: Terminology and classication, origin and development, future prospects. 2. Soybeans: Production, seed structure and components. 3. Chemical composition of soybeans: Soybean lipids, carbohydrates, minor components. 4. Soy proteins: Overview, molecular weight and classication, water solubility, denaturation, functionality, soy enzymes and antinutritional factors. 5. Soy oil extraction: Oil extraction from soybeans, solvent extraction principles and process outline, preextraction preparation, extraction process, other extraction technology, supercritical CO2 extraction. 6. Chinese traditional soyfoods: Principles and ingredients, soybean soaking and cleaning, soymilk preparation for tofu processing, coagulation and molding, lactone tofu, yuba, meat alternatives. 7. Fermented tofu: Varieties (total 14 discussed), ingredients, microorganisms, mucor fermented tofu & process, top 8 products. 8. Soy nuggets and fermented soy paste (miso): Soy nuggets, fermented soy paste. 9. Soymilk (soy beverages): Production principle and outline, beany avors and reduction, several commercial production lines, fermented soymilk, dry soymilk products. 10. Products from defatted meal: Defatted soy our, soy protein concentrates (dadou fenli danbai), soy protein isolates (dadou nongsuo danbai), structured soy protein products, soy emulsiers, applications of soy protein products. 11. Soy by-products utilization: Okara and its
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uses, soy whey and its uses. 12. Biological and chemical assay methodology: Assay for protein solubility, soy protein isolation, soy protein molecular weight measurement, gas chromatographic analysis of soy oligosaccharides, HPLC analysis of soy oligosaccharides, phytic acid assay, assay for hexanal the major beany avor component, trypsin inhibitor assay, lectin assay, urease assay, lipoxygenase assay, soybean cell biology: thin sample preparation technology, soybean cell biology: ultra thin sample preparation technology. Concerning fermented tofu (Chapter 7): Fermented tofu may be named after the region where it is made. Some famous products in China include: (1) Shaoxing furu. Famous for its rice wine, Shaoxing is a city in northeastern Zhejiang, a coastal province in central eastern China. (2) Guilin furu. Guilin is a city in the northeast of the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region of far southern China. (3) Kedong furu. Kedong is a county in Heilongjiang province in northeastern China. (4) Jiajiang furu. Jiajiang is a county in Sichuan Province, southwest China. (5) Tangchang doufu-ru. Tangchang is a town in Sichuan province. Note: Talk with KeShun Liu. 2001. July 9. Green vegetable soybeans (maodou) are not mentioned in this book. Address: China. 624. Kelley, Hubert W. 1993. Always something new: A cavalcade of scientic discovery. USDA Agricultural Research Service, Publication No. 1507. 150 p. Nov. Summary: This book is lled with photos and commemorative stories about the research discoveries and breakthroughs in the eld of crop utilization at the four regional USDAs Agricultural Research Service (ARS) labs during the 50 years since they were established. Chapters include: Introduction. Gambling on science. Penicillin and the war years [World War II]. Midstream changes and corrections. Frozen foods. Soybean oil (p. 85-88). Vegetable oils in Industry (p. 89-91). Food safety (p. 97-104; Aatoxin, other mycotoxins). Food for Peace (p. 116-18). Fuels from agriculture (p. 118-19). Proteins in milk, grains, and oilseeds (p. 125-20). Peanuts (p. 131). U.S. crops in Asian foods (p. 132-33; Tofu, tempeh, soy sauce, sufu). Microorganisms (p. 134-36; Incl. the ARS culture collection). Focus on the future (p. 147-50; soy oil printing inks). The most important work of the Northern regional laboratory in Peoria was the development of penicillin starting in June 1941. A brief chronology: 1941 Dec. Andrew J. Moyer, a chemist at the Northern lab, developed the basis for the industrial processdeep vat fermentation. 1942 MarchOnly enough penicillin is available to treat a single case. 1942 Dec. 31Seventeen U.S. pharmaceutical companies are working on penicillin. 1944 June 6Thanks to the combined efforts of many people, enough penicillin is available in quantity by D-Day (invasion of Normandy,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU France) to treat wounded allied soldiers. Penicillin was the worlds rst commercial antibiotic. By the 1950s, hundreds of antibiotics were on the market. Address: Director (retired), Information Staff, USDA Agricultural Research Service (ARS). 625. Escano, Crisanto R.; Gaddi, Virgilio Q. 1993. Country report 11Philippines. In: N. Chomchalow & P. Narong, eds. 1993. Soybean in Asia: Proceedings of the Planning Workshop for the Establishment of the Asian Component of a Global Network on Tropical and Subtropical Soybeans. Bangkok, Thailand: FAO Regional Ofce for Asia and the Pacic. viii + 218 p. See p. 92-108. RAPA Publication (FAO), No. 1993/6. [12 ref] Summary: Contents: (1) Introduction. (2) Production: Status, major growing seasons and cropping systems, constraints, resolving constraints. (3) Processing, utilization and marketing: Status, supply and demand, exportation of soybean products, constraints, resolving constraints. Figures: (1) Trend in soybean production, Philippines, 1980-90. (2) Soybean area harvested, Philippines, 198090. (3) Trend in the soybean yield, Philippines, 1980-90. (4) Regional shares of total production, Philippines, 1990. (5) Soybean and soybean product shares in importation, Philippines, 1990. (6) Country of origin, soybean meal import, Philippines, 1990. (7) Country of destination, soysauce export, Philippines, 1990. Tables: (1) List of soybean-based food products popularly used in the Philippines. (2) Volume and value of soybean imports, 1980-90. Soybean production increased from about 9,800 tonnes (metric tons) in 1980 to a peak of 11,466 tonnes in 1982, then decreased to 5,614 tonnes in 1990. Area planted to soybeans increased from about 10,000 ha in 1980 to a peak of about 11,00 ha in 1982, then decreased to about 7,000 ha in 1990. The average yield for the period 1980-1990 was 920 kg/ha, but has generally been falling since 1983. Southern Mindanao has been the single most important soybean producing region in the Philippines for more than a decade, accounting for about 67% of total Philippine soybean production in 1990; Central Mindanao comes next with about 23%. A brief history of soybean production in the Philippines from 1983 to 1990 appears on pages 99-10. Popular soyfoods products in the Philippines include: A. Fermented products: Soy sauce (toyo), fermented soybean curd (tausi [sic, salted, fermented black soybeans]), tempeh (tempe), soybean paste (miso), soft fermented soybean curd (tahuri). B. Nonfermented products: Soybean sprouts (toge, tauge), soybean cheese [curds] (tokwa), Geerlings cheese (taho [tofu]), soybean milk (soymilk), and roasted soybean powder (soy coffee). Philippine imports of soybeans and soybean products have increased rapidly since 1980, yet 93% of these imports
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in 1990 were soybean meal, of which 38% comes from India, 33% comes from the USA, 22% from China, and 7% from others. In April 1991 the General Milling Corporations soybean solvent extraction plant began operation in Tabango, Batangas. It is expected to reduce the countrys imports of soybean meal but increase the imports of raw soybeans. Address: 1. Scientist III; 2. Subject Matter Specialist. All: PCARRD, Los Baos, Laguna, Philippines. 626. Kushi, Michio; Kushi, Aveline; Jack, Alex. 1993. Macrobiotic diet. Tokyo and New York: Japan Publications. 400 p. Illust. 21 cm. * Summary: In the chapter on Beans and bean products is a long section on Soybeans (p. 195+) with this contents: Introduction. Miso. Natto. Okara. Soy Flour. Soy grits. Soy milk. Soy oil. Shoyu. Tempeh. Tofu (incl. nigari, fresh tofu, soft tofu, rm tofu, deep-fried tofu, pickled tofu, fermented tofu, frozen tofu, dried tofu). Viilia and soy yogurt. Yuba. Black soybeans are mentioned on pages 60, 121, 189, 200, 204 (also known as Japanese black beans). 627. Nhat Hanh, Thich. 1993. Hermitage among the clouds. Berkeley, California: Parallax Press. xv + 140 p. See p. 84. Illust. 23 cm. * Summary: Page 84: The convent had a granary and once a month they hulled rice. On full moon days and important religious holidays they made fresh tofu and pickled tofu... Note: Historical ction. A novel about 14th century Vietnam. Translated from the Vietnamese. 628. Tamura, Linda. 1993. The Hood River Issei: An oral history of Japanese settlers in Oregons Hood River Valley. Urbana and Chicago, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. xli + 337 p. Foreword by Roger Daniels. Illust. Index. 23 cm. [605* endnotes] Summary: A superb book, carefully researched and well. By telling, in depth, the story of one small community of Issei in Hood River, Oregon, from their youth in Japan until their return home after the brutal internment camps, she captures the exquisitely the story of the ordeals faced by the rst generation of Japanese (such honest, hard-working people) in racist America. Through her many interviews, the Issei are able to speak for themselves, in their own words, throughout this book. Soy-related passages: funyu = fermented bean cake = 59! miso = p. 65, 67, 77. Soy sauce = 25, 26, 66, 75, 138. soybean = p. 26. Page 58: Sekihan (steamed rice mixed with red beans [azuki]). Page 134: O-hagi (sweetened bean jam lled with mashed rice). Linda Tamura is a native of Hood River and a thirdgeneration Japanese American. Address: Prof. of education and chair of the Education Dep., Pacic Univ., Forest Grove,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Oregon. 629. Tran, Van Lai. 1993. Country report 15Vietnam. In: N. Chomchalow & P. Narong, eds. 1993. Soybean in Asia: Proceedings of the Planning Workshop for the Establishment of the Asian Component of a Global Network on Tropical and Subtropical Soybeans. Bangkok, Thailand: FAO Regional Ofce for Asia and the Pacic. viii + 218 p. See p. 143-150. RAPA Publication (FAO), No. 1993/6. Summary: Contents: (1) Introduction. (2) Production: trend, major growing seasons and cropping systems, constraints, resolving the constraints, future research. (3) Processing, utilization and marketing: Consumption, processing, marketing, constraints, resolving the constraints. (4) Resources: Personnel, seeds. (5) On-going research projects. (6) Information required. (7) Conclusion. Tables: (1) Area, yield, and production of soybean in Vietnam, 1970-90. (2) Soybean production constraints in Vietnam. (3) Several research ndings on soybean breeding and farming patterns. (4) Identied constraints for soybean production in Vietnam. (5) National requirement for food and production of soybean. (6) Methods of soybean processing of Vietnam. (7) Constraints to soybean processing, utilization, and marketing. (8) Future research priority for soybean in Vietnam. (9) Number of scientists working on soybean research. (10) Training needs on a priority basis. (11) Soybean varieties of high yield potential. Introduction: Soybean has been cultivated in Vietnam for a long time. Le Quy Don, in his book Van Dai Loai Ngu, written in 1773, mentioned about soybean cultivation. It is the second most important legume in Vietnam. All soybean products are used as human foods and animal feed because of its high food value (40-50% of protein and 2025% of oil). The Government of Vietnam, which is conscious of the importance of soybean and its role of human food and animal feed, and the possibility to increase its production, has listed soybean as the number two most important crop after groundnut in her agricultural development policy. Table 1: Area planted to soybeans in Vietnam grew from 17,078 ha in 1970 to 149,000 ha in 1990, projected to grow to 300,000 ha in the year 2000. Production of soybeans in Vietnam increased from 5,277 tonnes (metric tons) in 1970 to 146,020 tonnes in 1990, projected to grow to 420,000 tonnes in the year 2000. Yield of soybeans in Vietnam grew from 309 kg/ha in 1970 to 980 kg/ha in 1990, projected to grow to 1,400 kg ha in the year 2000. Most of the soybean produced in Vietnam is consumed as human food prepared by traditional methods, which include fermented products such as soysauce, soypaste (miso), soycurd (fermented tofu), and soycheese, and nonfermented products such as soymilk, soycurd (tofu) and soybean oil.
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Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the term soypaste to refer to miso. Concerning the Vietnamese names of these foods, Huong Quan Nguyen (Zomore Quan) writes, in reply to a question from Soyinfo Center. 2008. Aug. 17. Soy sauce = xi dau (the Vietnamese d written without the bar across the vertical stroke is pronounced Z). Soy paste = tuong dau nanh or tuong Cu Da. Tuong is a generic term meaning sauce. As you know, Cu Da is the name of the village famous for its soy paste. Tuong Cu Da literally means sauce made in Cu Da Village. Soy paste is made in many villages in North Vietnam, not just in Cu Da. I have heard that Tuong Ban and Tuong Pho Thoi are just as good as Tuong Cu Da. Soy curd = dau hu (which is unfermented. Once the soy curd is fermented, it is referred to as chao). Soy cheese = chao (this word has no diacritical mark). Note: Zomore asked six Vietnamese people who are knowledgeable about soyfoods and all are aware of only one kind of fermented tofu in Vietnam; therefore they cannot imagine what fermented soycheese is. Address: Legumes Research and Development Centre, INSA, Dong Da, Hanoi, Vietnam. 630. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. comps. 1994. Soyfoods industry and marketBibliography and sourcebook, 1985 to 1993. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 361 p. Subject/geographical index. Author/company index. Language index. Printed 11 Jan. 1994. Published Jan. 1995. 28 cm. [985 ref] Summary: This is the second of the two most comprehensive books ever published on the soyfoods industry and market worldwide. In May 1982 the rst study of the burgeoning soyfoods industry in the Western world was compiled by Shurtleff and Aoyagi, and published by Soyfoods Center. In April 1985 the fth edition of that book, titled Soyfoods Industry and Market: Directory and Databook (220 pages), was published. It contained statistics through 1984, the market size and growth rate for each soyfood type, rankings of leading soyfoods manufacturers of each soyfood type and the amount each produced, analyses, trends, and projections. This book is published to update the 1985 market study. In the decade since 1984 the soyfoods market has continued to grow at a very healthy rate, with some soyfood types (such as soymilk) growing at a truly astonishing sustained ratein both the USA and western Europeas the statistics in this book show so vividly. In 1975 only 75 new commercial soyfood products were introduced in the USA, yet that number skyrocketed to 217 in 1979, reaching an amazing 422 new products in 1987. During the decade from 1984 to 1994, Soyfoods Center has invested most of its time and resources in the production
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU of SoyaScan, the worlds largest computerized database on soyfoods, which contains more than 44,500 records as of Jan. 1994. This database also includes a wealth of carefully researched statistics and analyses of the soyfoods market; those from the start of 1985 to the end of 1993 are contained in this book. Its scope includes all known information on this subject, worldwide. Its focus, however, is statistics, analyses, and trends concerning the soyfoods industry and market in the United States and Europe. In May 1990 Soyfoods Center conducted an in-depth study of the tofu market in Europe (137 pages), and in July 1990 of the soymilk market in Europe (261 pages). All original interviews and published records from both of these market studies, plus a summary of each study, are included in the present book. The SoyaScan database is composed of individual records. One record might be an original interview with the head of the largest soymilk company in Europe, on the size and growth of the soymilk market in Europe, and new trends in that market, conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Another might be a published article or an unpublished document concerning the growth of the market for soy yogurts or soy sauce in America. This book documents the growth of each product category in every country worldwide. The book contains three extensive and easy-to-use indexes: A subject/ geographical index, an author/company index, and a language index. These allow you to nd the exact information you need on the soyfoods industry and market quickly and easily. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 510-283-2991. 631. Agri-Book Magazine (Exeter, ONT, Canada).1994. Far East market can double. 20(5):29. Feb. Summary: Canada is selling more and more soybeans for food uses to East Asia. Thailand is the only country in the region that is self-sufcient in soybean production. Japan (population 123 million) imports more than 1 million tonnes per year, Taiwan imports 250,000 tonnes, Indonesia 150,000 tonnes, Korea 120,000 tonnes, and Malaysia 100,000 tonnes. Singapore and Hong Kong import all the soybeans they use. In 1993 Ontario produced a record 1.7 million tonnes. Only 500,000 tonnes of this (29.4%) was exported, and only a fraction of that was suitable for making soyfoods such as tofu, natto, soymilk, Taiwanese fermented tofu (foo yee), etc. A large color photo shows ladies in Taiwan packing fermented tofu in jars. Ontario has captured 56% of the Hong Kong market, and about 14% of the Malaysian market. But the Asian market is becoming more competitive because exporters from the USA are beginning to offer soybeans in bags as well as bulk shipments. Michael Loh, the OSGMB coordinator for export development, thinks Canada can achieve its goal of doubling soybean exports by the year 2000.
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632. Yasuda, Masaaki; Matsumoto, Tetsuya; Sakaguchi, Maki; Kinjyo, Sakie. 1994. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo no seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. IX. Aspergillus oryzae o mochiita tofuyo no jukusei katei ni okeru tanpakushitsu oyobi chisso seibun no henka [Studies on the manufacture of tofuyo in Okinawa. IX. Changes in protein and nitrogen compounds of tofuyo prepared by Aspergillus oryzae during fermentation]. Nippon Shokuhin Kogyo Gakkaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 41(3):184-90. [21 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Tofuyo is a unique fermented soy protein food made in Okinawa Prefecture, Japan. Crude protein content decreased during ripening. Digestion of soybean protein was examined by slab polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis. Some polypeptide bands of soybean globulin, such as '-, -, beta-subunits in beta-conglycinin," an acidic subunit in glycinin in the water-insoluble fraction of tofuyo disappeared after 3-months ripening, and that of the basic subunit in glycinin still remained. As maturation of tofuyo proceeded, it was found that soybean protein was hydrolyzed by proteases in the moromi (mash). During maturation, the amount of total free amino acids increased, and high levels of glutamic acid, aspartic acid, alanine and proline were found. Tables show: (1) Changes in chemical composition of tofuyo prepared by Aspergillus oryzae during various ripening periods. (2) Changes in the free amino acid composition of tofuyo prepared by Aspergillus oryzae during various ripening periods. Figures (all graphs) show: (1) Changes in ethyl alcohol concentration, pH and activities of various enzymes in the moromi (mash) during ripening periods of 0-5 months. (3) Changes in protein solubility ratio of tofuyo during ripening periods of 0-5 months. (4) Changes in the ratio of trichloracetic acid-soluble nitrogen to the total nitrogen during ripening periods of 0-5 months. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 633. Wang, Huei-ju; Murphy, Patricia A. 1994. Isoavone content in commercial soybean foods. J. of Agricultural and Food Chemistry 42(8):1666-73. Aug. [28 ref] Summary: Isoavones are one class of phytochemicals and are found in soybeans in large amounts. Twelve isomers of isoavones were quantied: three aglycons and nine glucosides. Soybeans contain two major isoavone aglycons, genistein and daidzein, and a minor one, glycitein. In the seed, the isoavones are present primarily as Betaglucosides. The nine glucosides are: daidzin, genistin, glycitin; 6-O-acetyldaidzin, -genistin, or -glycitin; and 6-O-malonyldaidzin, -genistin, or -glycitin. This paper gives data on the concentration and distribution of isoavones in 29 commercial soybean foods, grouped into three types: Soy ingredients, traditional East
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Asian soy foods, and second-generation soyfoods. Four values are given for each product in micrograms per gram, on an as is basis: daidzein, genistein, glycitein, and total isoavones. (1) Soy ingredients: Vinton 81 90: 600, 954, 82, 1636. Vinton 8191: 240, 648, 107, 995. Green vegetable soybeans: 546, 729, 79, 1354. Soy our: 226, 810, 88, 1124. TVP #1: 473, 707, 202, 1382. TVP #1: 484, 702, 156, 1342. Soy isolate #1: 77, 273, 115, 466. Soy isolate #2: 115, 392, 102, 610. Soy isolate #3: 122, 393, 99, 615. Soy concentrate: trace, 13, 42, 56. (2) Traditional soy foods: Roasted soybeans: 563, 869, 193, 1625. Instant soy beverage #1: 311, 617, 109, 1037. Instant soy beverage #4: 407, 665, 111, 1183. Tofu (73% moisture): 146, 162, 29, 337. Tempeh: 273, 320, 32, 625. Bean paste (ko chu jang in Korea): 272, 245, 77, 593. Fermented tofu: 143, 224, 23, 390. Honzukuri miso (rice and soybeans): 79, 177, 38, 294. (3) Second generation soyfoods: Soy hot dog: 34, 82, 34, 150. Soy bacon: 28, 69, 24, 122. Tempeh burger: 64, 196, 30, 289. Tofu yogurt: 57, 94, 12, 164. Soy Parmesan: 15, 8, 41, 65. Soy Cheddar cheese #1: 2, 5, 27, 34. Soy Cheddar cheese #1: 34, 40, 35, 109. Soy mozzarella cheese: 11, 36, 30, 76. Flat soy noodle: 9, 37, 39, 85. Some manufacturers use ethyl alcohol extraction to prepare soy protein concentrates; this process removes a substantial portion of the isoavones. The products examined for this paper which had the lowest content of isoavones (all less than 100 micrograms per gram) were: soy cheddar cheese A 34, soy protein concentrate 56, soy Parmesan 65, soy mozzarella cheese 76, at noodle 85. Proposed anticarcinogenic doses of soybean isoavones range from 1.5 to 2.0 mg per kg of body weight per day (Hendrick et al, 1994). There are a number of soy food choices that will t this dose requirement without the need to consume unusual amounts of these soy foods. Isoavone standards and extraction of isoavones: Authentic standards of daidzein and genistein were obtained from commercial sources (ICN Pharmaceuticals, Plainview, New York, and Calbiochem Corp., San Diego, California). Daidzein and genistein were from previous work in the laboratory (Murphy 1981). The starting material for extracting isoavones was defatted soybean our. It was, in turn, extracted with acetonitrile (ACN) and 0.1 N HCl [hydrochloric acid] (1:5:1 w/v/v) according to the procedure of Murphy 1981. Address: Food Science and Human Nutrition, 2312 Food Sciences Building, Iowa State Univ., Ames, Iowa 50011. 634. Chou, Cheng-Chun; Hwan, C.H. 1994. Effect of ethanol on the hydrolysis of protein and lipid during the ageing of a Chinese fermented soybean curdsufu. J. of the Science of Food and Agriculture (London)CU-BIOS S3.J75 66(3):39398. Sept. [Eng]*
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Summary: Regardless of the starter organism used (Actinomucor taiwanensis or Actinomucor elegans), the addition of ethanol to the brine solution for ageing resulted in a increase of the free fatty acid content of the sufu, although fatty acid composition remained unchanged. The addition of ethanol also led to decreases in the dissolution ratio of protein and content of free fatty acids. Among the fatty acids, linoleic acid predominated, whereas among the free amino acids, glutamic acid and leucine were present in noteworthy amounts. Address: Graduate Inst. of Food Science & Technology, National Taiwan Univ., Taipei, Taiwan. 635. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1994. Tofu no bunka: Okinawa no tofu zukuri to tofuyo [The culture of tofu: Tofu-making and tofuyo in Okinawa]. In: Yasumoto Hara, ed. 1994. Minzoku no Kokoro o Saguru [Looking for the Folk Mind]. Sakae, Osaka, Japan: Hatsushiba Bunko. See p. 295-337. [35 ref. Jap]* Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 636. Bates, Chris; Bates, Ling-li. 1994. Culture shock! Taiwan. Portland, Oregon: Graphic Arts Center Publishing Co. 256 p. Illust. Map. Index. 20 cm. [11 ref] Summary: A guide to Taiwans customs and etiquette. Ling-Li is a Taiwanese native and Chris, her husband, is an American who lived and studied in Taiwan r a number of years. In Chapter 3, Settling In, the section titled A stroll through the wet market [the traditional fresh vegetable market, where each vendor rents a stall] is a section (p. 5051) about doufu and doufu products. If it is marinated and dried further, it becomes doufu gan (dried bean curd [sic, pressed tofu]). If it is fermented, it becomes chou doufu (smelly bean curd). Chapter 7, Cuisine of the Ilha Formosa is about Taiwanese restaurantswhere happy noise and clanging dishes are part of what Chinese value in dining out. Page 160-61: Junior is off to cram school, so Mom eats a specialty at a push cart to remind her of the avors of her youth. When they have all returned home they might go out together for syau ye (midnight snack). This might be a bowl of noodles, or chou doufu (smelly bean curdthey say it smells like a sewer and tastes like a dream; bean curds equivalent to Blue Stilton cheese). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term smelly bean curd. 637. Johnson, Natasha J. 1994. Traditional beancurd manufacture. Rugby, Warwickshire, England: Intermediate Technology. 39 p. Illust. No index. 21 cm. [11 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Manufacture. Packaging. Equipment. Coagulating agents. Modern methods of manufacture in China. High yield beancurd. Beancurd products (Chinese names are given in pinyin; a photo shows
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU each product): Deep-fried beancurd (you doufu), Deep-fried beancurd balls (yuanzi), Dry / pressed beancurd (doufu gan), Beancurd cutlets (nan hua gan), Beancurd roll (kunji), Smoked beancurd (xun doufu), Spiced beancurd (xiang gan), Stewing spice beancurd (luzhi doufu gan), Long life beancurd, Fermented beancurd (furu), Beancurd bamboo (fuzhu / dousun [yuba]), Frozen beancurd (dong doufu), Flavoured beancurd, Specialties (Jinxi ginger beancurd, Shaoyang pork roll, bean paste (douhu)), Beancurd silk (in the form of long strands), Heat processed beancurd, Instant beancurd mix. Use of by-products. Cooking with beancurd. References. Acknowledgements. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that uses the term Fermented beancurd to refer to fermented tofu. Concerning smoked tofu: A clear illustration shows the cylindrical smoking chamber, apparently made from a 55-gallon drum. At the bottom is a 20-cm layer of smoking rice bran, half way up is a perforated metal sheet, and near the top is a rack on which the squares or strips of rmlypressed tofu are smoked, and on top is a cover. Smoking takes several hours and may be cold smoking {below 30C} or hot smoking {below 70C}. The tofu is smoked slowly, turning it over when the surface is brown to give a distinctive avour, colour and aroma. After smoking, the texture is rm and the product can be stored for 10 days without refrigeration due to the natural preservatives present in the smoke and the drying action (25% weight loss by evaporation). Page 26 describes how a highly-avored product is made by mixing pressed tofu with various spices, sugar, salt, and diced vegetables. It is steamed for 10-12 minutes, mixed with vegetable oil, spread on a bamboo mat, left in the sun to dry, then smoked to give it a golden color. Photos show: Smoked tofu squares on a woven bamboo tray. Rectangular pieces of tofu, each pressed in a cloth. This booklet provides an excellent introduction to traditional methods of making tofu and tofu products in China, with many clear illustrations and photos. The author did the research while working at the Human Agricultural University in China. The publisher is working to enable low-income people in the Third World to develop and use technologies which give them more control over their lives and contribute to the long-term development of their communities. In addition to reviewing the many varieties of tofu and tofu products in China (from deep-fried tofu to instant tofu mix), the booklet discusses of traditional manufacturing principles, those which have potential for large-scale manufacture, coagulants, and packaging equipment. For further information contact Intermediate Technology, Myson House, Railway Terrace, Rugby, Warwickshire CV21 3HT, England, UK. Updated address (based on letter of March 1995): Ms. Natasha Johnson, c/o United Biscuits, Asia Pacic Ltd.,
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4506 China Resource Bldg., 26 Harbour Road, Hong Kong. Address: IT, Myson House, Railway Terrace, Rugby CV21 3HT, England. Phone: 0788 560631. 638. Pan, Lynn. 1994. Sons of the Yellow Emperor: A history of the Chinese diaspora. New York: Kodansha International. xx + 418 p. Illust. (16 pages of plates). Index. 22 cm. [174* ref] Summary: On page xiv is a very interesting map of southern China, with a blowup of southern Kwangtung [Guangdong] province, the area around Canton the Pearl River, the South China Sea, Macao, and Hong Kong. For this area was at the heart of the Chinese diasporaespecially in the 19th and 20th centuries and especially from two small areas southeast of Canton: (1) Sam Yap (Three Districts) of Punyu, Shuntak, and Namhoithe more afuent counties. (2) Sze Yap (Four Districts) of Hoiping, Sunwui, Toishan, and Yanpingthe poorer and ruder area southwest of Sam Yap. Although the people from both areas speak Cantonese, they have difculty understanding each others speech. Other important languages of the diaspora were Hakka and its numerous variants (spoken in Guangdong, Fujian, etc.) and Hokkien (spoken in southern Fujian, Taiwan, and by many overseas Chinese throughout Southeast Asia). It is closely related to Teochew / Teochiu, though mutual comprehension is difcult, In Part Four: 1960s to 1980s, Chapter 16, titled Food contains a history (p. 320-23) of Amoy Food Limited, now an international rm, with its headquarters in Hong Kong, owned largely by overseas Chinese. For many overseas Chinese, perhaps no label has quite the resonance of Amoy. In 1908, Tao-hua Ta-tung, the predecessor of the company, was founded in Xiamen for producing bottled soy sauce and dairy milk. Its founder was Yang Ko-fei, who soon brought in other shareholders. In 1911 clashes between the founder and other shareholders lead to a break-up of the company, with one party going it alone as Tai-hua (Tao Fia), and the other as Ta-Tung. Yang Ko-fei went with the latter company, who chief shareholder was Tan Kah Kee, the rubber and pineapple magnate. It became increasingly apparent, however, that the two companies would do much better of they operated as a single unit. So in 1928, when a new rival appeared, they merged, with the smaller of the two now located in Hong Kong. Thereafter the company experienced steady growth. Eventually the branch in Hong Kong came to eclipse the parent company in Amoy. In 1937, when the Japanese invaded China and war broke out, almost the entire canning plant was moved to Hong Kong from Amoy. In 1951, when the company went public, the ownership passed mainly into the hands of overseas Chinese. Today Amoy Foods products are on the shelves of supermarkets and Asian markets in 37 countries. Half of Amoy Foods shares are owned by the American food giant
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Pillsbury (owner of Haagen-Dazs and the Burger King hamburger chain) and the other half by Hang Lung (a Hong Kong real estate company). Amoys line of 34 sauces include dark soy sauce (lau-chou), light soy sauce (sheng-chou), black bean sauce [made of fermented black soybeans], sweet and sour sauce, etc. On the roof of the Amoy factorys main building a visitor can see a demonstration of the old-fashioned process; here, an old man with sleeves rolled up goes from earthen vat to earthen at plunging his arm into the thick brew of black and yellow soy beans to give it a gentle, almost loving stir. He works rhythmically, with deep concentration. A Soy Master with thirty or forty years behind him, he stands in a line which goes back to the fth century, from when dates the earliest surviving soy sauce recipe. Companies like Amoy have helped to make Chinese foods more widely available in the West. Not so long ago, Chinese cookbooks published in England said that Worcestershire sauce was an acceptable substitute for soy sauce, because the latter was available only at delicatessens and specialty shops [Asian grocery stores] in London. Even during the last ve years, the range of Chinese foods available in Londons Chinatown has grown remarkably. In Chinatowns in the United States [and especially those in San Francisco {California} and New York] the selection of Chinese foods has long [perhaps always] been greater than at those in London or other places in Europe. Page 324: The rst person to make tofu in Europe was Li Shih-tseng [Li Y-ying, Li Shizeng], a Chinese intellectual and educator. As a young student of biochemistry in France in 1900, Li was to be greatly inuenced by the writings of Nietzsche and Bergson. A Francophile, Li was one of the founders of the Work and Study Program, which sent Chinese students abroad for part-time work and parttime study. One of these students, who would later become famous, was Deng Xiaoping. While establishing his tofu [beancurd] factory in France, Li drew on his knowledge of biochemistry; the factory provided jobs for many students in the Work-Study Program. Li, a vegetarian, was a rm believer in the nutritional value of tofu and other soybean foods. His factory also made and sold soybean our, fermented tofu, soy-bean milk, and soy-bean jam, and these foods nourished not just Chinese, but also Westerners, including American soldiers who fought in France during World War I (Lin Hai-yin 1971, p. 125). All this was before the faddish demand for tofu by health food enthusiasts, and before it became widely known as an unbeatable source of protein. The company closed after the war, but among certain Chinese migrs [emigrants from China] France was never to lose its reputation for beancurd. In Europe up to the 1980s tofu kan, a particular variety of fermented beancurd [sic, pressed tofu] much demanded by eastern Chinese palates, could only be had in Paris, and the handful of migrs in London had to send over for it.
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Li was also a founder of the Universit Franco-Chinoise at Lyons, a sort of accommodation and placement agency. About the author (facing p. 418). Lynn Pan was born in Shanghai; she left as a child. She has lived as an immigrant in North Borneo and England, and worked as a social scientist, journalist and writer in London, Geneva, Helsinki, and Hong Kong. In 1981 she returned to Shanghai for the rst time, and was gripped by deep, haunting sensations of nostalgia. She had found the place where she belonged, her inheritance, and she began to write this book. She is the author of at least ve other booksall listed facing the title page. Her Epilogue and Afterword at the end of this book are both very interesting. 639. Yasuda, Masaaki; Matsumoto, Tetsuya; Sakaguchi, Maki; Kinjyo, Sakie. 1995. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo no seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. X. Beni koji to ki koji no heiyo ni yoru tofuyo no seizo [Studies on the manufacture of tofuyo in Okinawa. X. Production of tofuyo using the combination of red and yellow kojis]. Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku Kaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 42(1):38-43. Jan. [15 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Red koji was prepared by growing molds of the genus Monascus on steamed rice. Yellow koji was prepared by growing Aspergillus oryzae molds on steamed rice. In this study, tofuyo prepared with either or both of these types of koji was investigated. The product obtained by using the combination of red and yellow kojis was preferred to that made by only one koji. The most desirable product was obtained by using the mixed koji of composed 75% yellow koji and 25% red koji. Crude protein content, hardness, and cohesiveness of tofuyo were found to decrease during the ripening period. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 640. Reichl, Ruth. 1995. Restaurants: Finding the real China in Queens with a man famous for knowing what is. New York Times. Feb. 24. p. C24. Summary: This is a review of three Chinese restaurants in Flushing, Queens. The writer accompanied Ken Hom, a man who was famous for his eight books on Chinese food. Ken was happy because he had just tasted the spicy pickled bean sprouts at Golden Monkey [Sichuan; 133-47 Roosevelt Ave.]... The dish was made with real soy beans and, for once, the dish contained enough oilwhich Americans might not like. A recipe that the menu calls vegetable rolls are actually bean curd skins [yuba] so crisp they crackled with each bite, lled with juicy bean sprouts and brushed with a thick and pungent sesame sauce. At Taipei Wall Sea Street Taiwanese Restaurant [13505 40th Road], hot pots are the signature dish. Taiwanese food is unlike any other and this turned out to be a ne
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU place to sample it. One dish, which the menu called fried homemade pork, consisted of thin, chewy strips of meat marinated in fermented bean curd to give them a salty, funky avor. One of the recommended dishes is shredded pork with dried bean curd [probably doufu-gan, which is pressed tofu]. 641. New York Times.1995. Make it Borough of restaurants: In Queens, culinary homes for all. May 28. p. CY12. Summary: Contains summaries of previous reviews of the Golden Monkey and the Taipei Wall Sea Street Taiwanese Restaurant, described in detail by Ruth Reichl in the Feb. 24 issue of this newspaper (p. C24). Mentions fermented bean curd. In addition, there is a summary review of Penang Cuisine Malaysia which includes Penang rojak, a refreshing peppery salad of cucumber, jicama, pineapple, zucchini and tofu enhanced by a pungent fermented shrimp paste, and tofu stuffed with ground sh and served in a spicy coconut milk and bitter melon sauce. Also: Whole fried pompano in black bean sauce. 642. Wilson, Lester A. 1995. Soy foods. In: D.R. Erickson, ed. 1995. Practical Handbook of Soybean Processing and Utilization. Champaign, Illinois: American Oil Chemists Society Press; St. Louis, Missouri: United Soybean Board. viii + 584 p. See p. 428-59. Chap. 22. [41 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Soybean chemical composition. Unfermented soy foods: Soymilk, tofu (momen, kinugoshi or silken, packed tofu, aseptically packaged tofu, deep-fried tofu, kori tofu or dried-frozen tofu), other nonfermented soy foods (yuba, kinako or roasted whole soybean our, fresh {edamame} and canned soybeans, texturized soy protein-based foods). Fermented soy foods: Miso, shoyu (soy sauce), natto, tempeh, sufu. Japanese Agricultural Standards. Identity preservation and transportation. Soybean quality characteristics: Overview, judging quality (tofu, miso, natto). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Dec. 2005) that contains the term roasted whole soybean our. Tables: 1. Nonfermented soy food products and common names by country. 2. Fermented soy food products and common names by country. 3. Chemical composition of soy foods. 4. Per capita annual consumption of soybeans (kg) in selected Asian countries (China, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, Malaysia, Philippines, Thailand; for the years 1968, 1978, 1988, 1994). Figures: 1. Flowchart of refrigerated and shelf-stable soymilk production. 2. JAS seal of approval. 3. Diagram of equipment used in large scale tofu production (each piece of equipment is numbered and labeled). 4. Flowchart of regular tofu production. 5. Graph showing percent transmittance of whey versus coagulant concentration for soymilks at 6% solids made from Weber, Vinton, and Amsoy
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soybeans. A concentration of 0.023 N was selected as the optimum coagulant concentration, since it gave the most transparent whey. 6. Graph showing percent transmittance of whey versus coagulant concentration for Amsoy soymilk at concentrations of 4, 5, and 8% solids. Concentrations of 0.018N, 0.019N, and 0.035N, respectively, were selected as optimum coagulant concentrations. 7. Flowchart of kinugoshi (silken) tofu production. 8. Flowchart of packaged tofu production. 9. Flowchart of aseptically packaged tofu production. 10. Flowchart of kori (dried-frozen) tofu production. 11. Diagram of equipment used in large scale production of dried-frozen tofu (each piece of equipment is numbered and labeled). 12. Flowchart of miso production. 13. Diagram of the interactive factors producing the characteristic attributes of miso. 14. Flowchart of tempeh production. Address: Iowa State Univ., Ames, Iowa. 643. Wibisono, Djoko; Wong, David. 1995. The food of Singapore: authentic recipes from the Manhattan of the East. Boston, Massachusetts and Singapore: Periplus. 120 p. See p. 104. Introduction by Lee Geok Boi. Illust. (color by Luca Invernizzi Tettoni). Map. Index.20 x 23 cm. Summary: In the section on Poultry, the recipe for Duck in fragrant soy sauce (p. 104) has a headnote which begins: A Teochew favorite sometimes made with goose, this is a simple but very tasty way of simmering duck in soy sauce avored with black spices (cinnamon, star anise and cloves). The ingredients include: 4 cups light soy sauce. 3 tablespoons black soy sauce. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2010) that contains the term fragrant soy sauce, which refers to a kitchen preparation rather than to a commercial product. Note 2. Teochew food, from southern China, is characterized by steaming, light soups and sh dishes (p. 15). Bean curd is mentioned on pages 10, 27, 48 (dried bean curd), 52 (rm bean curd), 66, 68. Black soy sauce is mentioned on pages 14, 33, 39, 42, 52, 58, 64, 72, 82, 86, 98, 102, 104. Note: This appears to be a commercial product. Deep-fried beancurd (tau foo pok) is mentioned on page 27. Fermented bean curd (nam yee) is mentioned on page 27. Soy sauce is mentioned throughout this book, including light soy sauce (which is saltier and paler than the dark black variety), sweet soy sauce (Indonesian, p. 33), and black soy sauce. Yellow bean sauce is mentioned on page 32. Address: 1. Executive Chef; 2. Chef responsible for Chinese cuisine. Both: The Beaufort Sentosa, Singapore. 644. Zedong, Mao; Schram, Stuart R.; Hodes, Nancy Jane. 1995. Maos road to power: Revolutionary writings
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU 1912-1949. Volume III. From the Jinggangshan to the establishment of the Jiangxi Soviets, July 1927December 1930. Armonk, New York; London: M.E. Sharpe. lxxvi + 771 p. See p. 323. 24 cm. [400*+ ref] Summary: In the section titled Xunwu investigation (May 1930, p. 296-419) we read (p. 323): Dried bean curd roll [lit., curd bamboo] [sic, dried yuba roll]. This is made of thin sheets of bean curd [sic, yuba] rolled into tubes. One jin costs 2 mao and several fen; annual sales are 40 to 50 jin. It comes from Xingning. Doufumei [lit., bean curd mold]. This is fermented bean curd that comes from Mei xian. It is made from three items: soybean milk, taro, and our. It is not made the way the dried bean curd [doufu-gan; pressed tofu] used by the common people is made. Bean curd [tofu] is mentioned on pages 184 (Spoiled bean curd is not spoiled bean curd), 335 (section), 336, 347. Soybean is mentioned on pages 318 (soybean business), 323 (soybean milk), 336 (soybean residue [okara]), 343 (yellow soybean sprout). Address: China. 645. Yasuda, Masaaki. 1995? Characterization of tofuyo (Fermented tofu) (Web article printout). http://www.agriqua. doae.go.th/ worldfermentedfood/I _12_Yasuda.pdf. 12 p. Undated. Printed 3 Nov. 2011. [12 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Process for making tofuyo (3 steps): 1. Process for making tofu and dehydrated tofu. 2. Process for making rice koji (inoculated with Monascus mold to make red rice koji). 3. Soaking and ripening. Chemical and physical characterization of tofuyo: 1. Chemical changes during the ripening period. 2. Physical changes of tofuyo during the ripening period. Physiological function of tofuyo. Characterization of tofuyo making (The major characteristics in tofuyo making are that we do not have a process of molding on tofu-cubes and brining as done for sufu. Red-koji and awamori are used in our process). Tables: (1) Effect of steaming methods and varieties of rice on the production of enzymes and pigment of red koji. (2) Changes in chemical composition of tofuyo prepared by Monascus fungus during the ripening period. (3) Changes in breaking charcteristics of tofuyo during the ripening period (breaking strain, breaking stress, breaking energy). Flow chart of making tofuyo. Figures: (2) Graph of Changes in protein solubility ratio of tofuyo during the ripening period. The ratio steadily increases. Tofuyo is very similar to the foods called sufu, tou-fuju and furu in China or tau-hu-yee in Thailand and its root is considered as sufu in China. It was brought to Okinawa from Fujian, China and has been introduced since at the period of the Ryukyu dynasty in the 18th century. Traditionally, tofuyo is consumed directly as relish with liquor such as awamori or as cakes served with tea Recently it has been used in sushi, cracker-spread, and many
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kinds of hors-doeuvre in the restaurants. Because tofuyo is a cream cheese-type product and has a mild avor it would be expected to be suitable for use in western countries due to cholesterol free and low salt vegetable food for health (p. 7). Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-0213, Japan. 646. Manfredi, Steve. 1996. Soybean made simple. Financial Review (Sydney, Australia). Feb. 2. p. 11. Weekend. Summary: The writer, Tami Ohnui (a specialist soybean grower) and Kei Fukui (an excellent Japanese cook) explain very briey how to make fermented black bean sauce, soy sauce, fermented black beans (shi), tofu, fermented tofu, and edamam. 647. Reichl, Ruth. 1996. Adventurous Asian cuisine. New York Times. March 29. p. C1. Summary: To dine on real Asian food, look for real Asian restaurants. They are easy to nd. As New Yorks Asian population has grown larger and more afuent, the demand for authentic Asian food has grown. Hundreds of New York restaurants now cater to a clientele with no need for menus written in English and no desire for food translated into American. Until the Immigration and Nationality Act of 1965 (also called Hart-Celler Act, signed into law on Oct. 3 President Lyndon Johnson; it became law on 1 July 1968), which increased Asian immigration to the United States, most Chinese food in America was a bad parody of Cantonese cooking. But since the, we have increasingly had the opportunity to sample the real thing. Shanghainese cuisine includes mock duck made of tofu. Taiwan: To eat in Taiwan helps to understand the many cultures that have passed through this island. In the 1600s, settlers from Fukien [Fujian] arrived from the mainland, bringing their food with them. The Japanese occupied the island for 50 years (1895-1945) leaving their mark in the form of sushi, sake, and a unique lightness. Finally the Kuomintang came to the island (1949 to present), bringing people from all of Chinas provinces. Modern Taiwanese food blends all of these inuences. Only a few restaurants in New York serve authentic Taiwanese food. Davids Taiwanese Gourmet in Elmhurst [Queens] serves typical Taiwanese dishes like... fried fermented bean curd (a denite love or hate proposition). 648. Yasuda, Masaaki; Kinjyo, Sakie; Miki, Eizo. 1996. Okinawa ni okeru tofuyo no seizo ni kansuru kenkyu. XI. Tofuyo no jukusei katei ni okeru hadan tokusei, kuripu kyodo oyobi bisaikozo no henka [Studies on the manufacture of tofuyo in Okinawa. XI. Changes in breaking characteristics, creep behavior and microstructure of tofuyo
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU during fermentation]. Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku Kaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 43(3):322-27. March. [8 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: Tofuyo has a unique texture like that of cream cheese. Changes in the textures and microstructures of tofuyo made with red koji (genus Monascus) and/or yellow koji (genus Aspergillus) are investigated. The values of breaking stress and breaking energy for tofuyo decreased during the ripening period. The value of each viscoelasticity coefcient on the creep analysis of tofuyo also decreased during ripening. An electron microscopic observation revealed that fat molecules seemed to bind with proteins, and that the structure of soybean protein which formed the body of tofuyo changed from briform to small particles which connected each other during fermentation. These phenomena appear to be strongly affected by the degree of degradation [hydrolysis] of soybean protein in the tofu. Address: 1-2. Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-01. 649. Husin, Adinan; Ahmad, Hasimah Haz. 1996. Soybean as a consistent industrial resource. In: Alex Buchanan, ed. 1996. Proceedings of the Second International Soybean Processing and Utilization Conference: 8-13 January 1996, Bangkok, Thailand. Bangkok, Thailand: Printed by Funny Publishing Limited Partnership. Distributed by The Institute of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart University. xviii + 556 p. See p. 497-507. [30 ref] Summary: Contents: Abstract. Introduction. Processing of soybean. Food uses of soybean. Processing of soybean oil. Processing of protein products: Flours, protein concentrates, protein isolates, textured protein products. Unfermented soy products: Soy curd/tofu, soymilk, snacks. Fermented products: Tempe, soy sauce, cheese (Commercial cheese alternatives claim to taste, melt, and stretch like regular cheese. Soy cheese now comes in Jalapeno Jack style, Cheddar style, mozzarella style, Garlic-herb style, and Monterey Jack style). Non-food uses (Soy oils are used in non-food applications such as in the preparation of soaps, paints, varnishes, resins, plastics, lubricants and agrochemicals). Promoting the use of soybean. Conclusion. Address: Food Technology Research Centre, MARDI, G.P.O. Box 12301, 50774 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. 650. Demos, Steve. 1996. Recent trip to Europe. What is vegetarianism? Cause marketing (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. June 5. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: Steve greatly enjoyed meeting Bernard Storup of Nutrition et Soja in France, and discussing soyfoods. Steve was especially impressed with his soymilk production and packaging line. Bernard is making some interesting soy/ dairy blends. Bernards long term plan is not to stay with Sandoz. Now Bernard gets a bonus of $100,000 a year in
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addition to his salary just to stay with Sandoz. In the UK, Steve met with Graham Keene, head of marketing and sales for the Haldane Group. Haldane makes yogurt under 3 brands, and one of them was the best soy yogurt Steve has ever tasted anywhere. Their yogurt has a pH of 3.8 to 4.0 which gives it a shelf life of 3-4 weeks; there appeared to be no special tricks involved. Steve would soon like to travel to East Asia to take a closer look at Okinawan fermented tofu (Tofuyo). Steve spent $100,000 to nd out what people mean when they say I am a vegetarian. They mean: I avoid red meat. Cause marketing is where a company puts its advertising dollars into a cause, such as saving the rain forests or promoting vegetarianism. The largest investor in White Wave has the surname Demos, and it is not Steve. Address: President, White Wave Inc., 1990 North 57th Court, Boulder, Colorado 80301. 651. Katsura, M. 1996. Tofuyo [Tofuyo]. Nihon Chori Kagakukai-Shi (Journal of Cookery Science of Japan) 29:314-22. [Jap]* 652. Solomon, Charmaine. 1996. Charmaine Solomons encyclopedia of Asian food. Port Melbourne, Australia: Reed Books. xiv + 480 p. Color illust. ([28] p. of plates). 29 cm. * 653. Steinkraus, Keith H. ed. 1996. Handbook of indigenous fermented foods. 2nd ed., revised and expanded. New York, Basel, and Hong Kong: Marcel Dekker, Inc. xii + 776 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. Food Science and Technology Series, Vol. 73. Index. 26 cm. [350 + soy ref] Summary: This 2nd edition is about 108 pages longer than the original 1983 edition. Contents: Introduction to indigenous fermented foods. (1) Indonesian tempe and related fermentations: Protein-rich vegetarian meat substitutes. (2) Indigenous fermented foods involving an acid fermentation: Preserving and enhancing organoleptic and nutritional qualities of fresh foods. (3) Indigenous fermented foods involving an alkaline fermentation. (4) Indigenous fermented foods in which ethanol is a major product: Type and nutritional signicance of primitive wines and beers and related alcoholic foods (incl. Chinese koji (big qu {bricklike in shape and made from barley or wheat and soybeans, inoculated with Aspergillus} molds), and small qu ({spherical, plate-circular or rectangular in shape and made from rice or rice bran with various herbs, inoculated with Mucor and/or Rhizopus molds}, p. 449), Japanese amazake (p. 480-81). (5) Indigenous amino acid / peptide sauces and pastes with meatlike avors (p. 509-654): Introduction. (A) Soy sauces: Japanese shoyu: Koikuchi, usukuchi, and tamari; Chinese chiang-yu, by Tamotsu Yokotsuka (p. 511-17). Biochemistry of Saccharomyces (Zygosaccharomyces) rouxii, by Steinkraus, Franta, and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Ayres (p. 517-24). Umami avor, by Kawamura and Kare (p. 524-28). Chinese fermented product related to soy sauce (big qu, small qu, and jiang, by Chen & Ho, p. 528). Taiwanese soy sauce, by Liu (p. 528-33). Malaysian soy sauce: Kicap, by Ong, Mercian, Poesponegoro and Tanuwidja (p. 531-39). Indonesian soy sauce: Kecap, by Saono, Poesponegoro and Tanuwidja (p. 539-43). Korean soy sauce, by Chang (incl. homemade kanjang and meju, p. 543-44). Taiwanese black bean sauce: Inyu, by Jan et al. (p. 544). Philippine taosi, by Steinkraus (p. 544-45). (B) Fermented soybean pastes: Japanese miso, by Ebine, Shurtleff and Aoyagi (p. 545-56). Indonesian tauco, by Saono et al. and Winarno (p. 556-59). Korean Doenjang and kochujang, by Chang, Shurtleff and Aoyagi (p. 559-64). (C) Fermented sh-shrimp sauces and pastes (p. 565606). (D) Fish-soy sauce and sh-soy paste, by Ismail, p. 60711). (E) Miscellaneous Oriental fermentations. Japanese natto (itohiki natto), by Hayashi and Ota (p. 611-24). Japanese Hama-natto (hamanatto) and related products (incl. yukiwari natto, p. 624-26). Chinese red rice: Anka (Angkah), by Lin, Su and Wang, Sooksan and Gongsakdi, and Pichyangkura (p. 626-33). Chinese sufu, by Su and L.-P. Lin (p. 633-41). Preserved duck eggs / Century eggs, Chinese pidan (p. 641-42). Pidan are made by a chemical process, not by fermentation. Note: Chapter 5 contains about 240 references. Much of the text in this chapter is similar to that in the original 1983 edition, although this chapter is 7 pages longer and contains 3-4 new sections. (6) Mushrooms: Producing single-cell (microbial) protein on lignocellulosic or other food and agricultural wastes. (7) General papers related to indigenous fermented foods. Address: Inst. of Food Science, Cornell Univ., Geneva, New York. 654. Pirello, Christina. 1997. Cooking the whole foods way: Your complete, everyday guide to healthy, delicious eating with 500 recipes, menus, techniques, meal planning, buying tips, wit & wisdom. New York, NY: Berkeley Publishing Group (HPBooks). xii + 525 p. March. Illust. Index. 24 cm. In 2003 a CD was made in Princeton, New Jersey by Recording for the Blind & Dyslexic. [38 ref] Summary: This is basically a macrobiotic cookbook. It is largely vegetarian, but has one long chapter of sh recipes (p. 189-220). No red meat or sugar is used. One long chapter, titled Tofu, tempeh, & seitan (p. 157-88) contains many recipes. Other soy-related recipes include: Basic miso soup (p. 38). Miso millet stew (p. 78). Minute miso soup (p. 102). Black soybean relish (p. 136; as black soybeans are simmered, they create their own gravy). Baked beans with miso & apple butter (p. 143). Tofu cheese (with miso, p. 162). Lemon miso sauce (p. 422). Also contains recipes for
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amasake, azuki beans, and sea vegetables. The recipe for Tofu cheese (p. 162), which is very creative and delicious, was developed by Christina many years ago, but the method was kept a secretuntil now! Basically extra rm tofu is fermented / pickled in white miso. This recipe is for those who cant stand to give up cheese, and the resulting fermented soy cheese can be used in place of dairy cheese in many recipes, ranging from creamy white sauces to thin squares on a cracker. The tofu can be fermented in the miso anywhere from 12 hours to 4 daysdepending on how strong you would like the avor to become. 655. Higgins, Andrew. 1997. Kowloon sees the writing on the wall. Guardian (England). April 30. p. 9. Summary: A prole of the self-proclaimed King of Kowloona Hong Kong legend. He also goes by the name of Tsang Tso-choi, and some of the poor and common people hail him as the authentic voice of real Hong Kong. Of his shabby calligraphy, Lee Yun-woon, a trained calligrapher and scholar, says: Some people like to eat stinky bean curd [a type of fermented tofu]. This is their business. Personally, I cant stand it. 656. Labb, Max. 1997. Ces tonnants aliments vgtaux ferments et lacto-ferments [Those astonishing fermented and lactic-fermented vegetable foods]. Auvers sur Oise, France: Published by the author. 116 p. Preface by Richard Hwei-Ming Bau. Illust. No index. 21 cm. [Fre] Summary: Part III of this popular book, titled Asiatic Specialties, contains the following sections and subsections (p. 77-103): Chinese and Japanese fermented foods: Shoyu and tamari, miso, umeboshi, nuka pickles, natto, sufu. Characteristics and way of tempeh: Denition, preparation, arrangement of grains before inoculation. Indonesian tempeh: Preparation of the cakes, preparation of the inoculum. Javanese tap (tapeh) and its culture. Americanstyle tempeh. A color photo on the rear cover shows Max Labb. Address: 3 rue Emile Level, F- 75017, Paris. 657. New York Times.1997. Authentic tastes in Queens nooks. May 11. p. CY14. Summary: Contains a summary review of Davids Taiwanese Gourmet, a full review of which by Ruth Reichl appeared in this newspaper on 29 March 1996 (p. C1). Mentions fermented bean curd. 658. Liu, KeShun. 1997. Fermented Oriental soyfoods. In: KeShun Liu. 1997. Soybeans: Chemistry, Technology, and Utilization. Florence, Kentucky: Chapman & Hall. xxvi + 532 p. See p. 218-96. Chap. 5. Index. [127 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Fermented soy paste (jiang and miso): Varieties of miso and jiang, koji and microorganisms involved, koji starter and its preparation,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Chinese jiang preparation (traditional household method, pure culture method, enzymatic method), Japanese miso preparation (rice koji preparation, treatment of soybeans, mixing and mashing, fermentation, pasteurization and packaging), principles of jiang and miso preparation, major factors in jiang and miso making (raw materials, cooking temperature and time, conditions during koji preparation, proportions of ingredients, fermentation conditions, novel processing for special products). Soy sauce (jiangyou or shoyu): Varieties of soy sauce, soy sauce processing (traditional Chinese household method, modern Chinese method, processing of Japanese shoyu, comparison of soy sauce and jiang or miso preparations), principles of making soy sauce (action of koji enzymes, fermentation by lactic bacteria and yeasts, color and avor formation, glutaminase and glutamic acid), chemical soy sauce, progress in soy sauce preparation (use of defatted soy grits or akes, improvements in treating soybeans, development of an automatic koji-making system, application of microorganisms with specic activities, techniques to shorten production time, improvements in soy sauce clarication), chemical composition, quality attributes and standardization, mycotoxins. Tempeh: Varieties of tempeh, preparation (traditional method, pilot plant method, petri dish method), microorganisms involved, factors affecting tempeh fermentation (starter, dehulling and aeration, moisture, temperatures, acidity, losses of solids), changes during fermentation (general changes, protein, lipid, carbohydrates and other constituents), production of vitamins, storage, nutritional value. Natto: Preparation, microorganisms involved, factors affecting natto quality (raw material, soybean cooking conditions, storage), changes during fermentation, trends in research on natto and B. natto (development of novel strains of B. subtilis, purication and characterization of key enzymes, studies into genes encoding key enzymes of B. subtilis, studies of possible physiological roles of natto). Soy nuggets (douchi or hamanatto). Sufu: Preparation, types of sufu, microorganisms involved, effect of mold growth, effect of brine aging. Figures show: (1) Photo of Chinese chiang, and Japanese red and white miso, each on one of three spoons in a shallow white bowl. (2) Flow chart of a Chinese method for making koji starter from whole soybeans and wheat bran. Adapted from Shi and Ren (1993). (3) Flow chart of a pure-culture method for making Chinese jiang from whole soybeans (65%) and wheat our (35%). Adapted from Shi and Ren (1993). (4) Flow chart of an enzymatic method for making Chinese jiang from whole soybeans (65%) and wheat our (35%). Adapted from Shi and Ren (1993). (5) Flow chart of the manufacturing process for Japanese rice miso [red miso]. Adapted from Fukushima (1981). (6) Diagram of the interactions of basic miso components during miso fermentation. From Shurtleff and Aoyagi (1983) who adapted it from Shibasaki and Hesseltine (1962). (7)
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Graph of trichloracetic acid (TCA)-soluble nitrogen (N) contents of miso samples prepared with soybeans cooked at different temperatures for 10 minutes, followed by 0 days or 25 days of fermentation. Adapted from Nikkuni et al. (1988). (8) Graph of temperature and time control curves for different types of Japanese miso during fermentation. Adapted from Shurtleff and Aoyagi (1983). (9) Photo of soy sauce in three different containers: dispenser, small Yamasa bottle, and large Chinese can (Soy, Superior Sauce). (10) Flow chart of a typical manufacturing process for koikuchi shoyu, the most widely used type of Japanese soy sauce. Adapted from Fukushima (1981). (11) Graph (salt content % vs. temperature) Of safety zone for enzymatic digestion of shoyu koji. Protein digestibility and amino acid content in Zone A are better than those in Zone B. From Yokotsuka (1986). (12) Graph of lactic acid fermentation of shoyu mash as a function of time. Adapted from Jose et al. (1976). (13) Flow chart of role of the proteolytic enzymes of koji mold in liberation of amino acids from proteins. Adapted from Fukushima (1985). (14) Chromatogram of organic acids in fermented and chemical [HVP] soy sauce manufactured in the United States. Optical densities vs. retention time. From Fukushima (1979a). (15) Flow chart of traditional Indonesian method for making tempeh from whole soybeans. Adapted from Winarno (1989). (16) Four superimposed graphs of change in pH and organic acids as a function of incubation time during accelerated acidication of soybeans at 30C. Shows acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, and pH. Adapted from de Reu et al (1995a). (17) Graph of water soluble nitrogen content in the fermentation of soybeans with Rhizopus oligosporus during the traditional tempeh process at 25, 30, and 37C, and with the rotating drum reactor at 36C. (18) Photo of two chopsticks lifting some Japanese natto from a bowl full of natto; the thin strings connecting the natto above and below are clearly visible. (19) Flow chart of typical method for making Japanese natto from whole soybeans. (20) Photo of Chinese soy nuggets (douchi) on a white plate. (21) Flow chart of typical method for making Chinese soy nuggets from whole soybeans. (22) Photo of cubes of sufu (Chinese cheese) in a shallow white bowl. (23) Flow chart for making Chinese sufu from rm tofu. Tables: (1) Proximate composition of some traditional soyfoods (both fermented and nonfermented). (2) Classication of major types of Japanese miso and their chemical composition. Adapted from Fukushima (1979a). (3) Types of soy sauce recognized by the Japanese government and their chemical composition. (4) Comparison between fermented soy sauce and protein chemical hydrolysate [HVP soy sauce]. Source: Yokotsuka (1986). (5) Relationship between cooking soybeans and nitrogen composition and yield of resultant soy sauce. Source: Fukushima (1979b). (6) Detailed composition of fermented Japanese soy sauce (Koikuchi shoyu). Source: Yokotsuka (1986). Includes inorganic components (minerals), organic components,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU amino acids, organic acids, sugars, solids, etc. (7) Selected enzymatic activities, soluble nitrogen content, and stringiness of natto samples prepared with soybeans cooked under a pressure of 1.5 kg per square cm for various periods. Adapted from Matsumoto et al. 1995. (8) Major responsible microorganisms isolated from sufu made in different parts of China. Column 1 is the genus and species. Column 2 is areas where the sufu is made, including Taiwan and Hong Kong. Adapted from Shi and Ren (1993). Address: PhD, Soyfood Lab., Hartz Seed, a Unit of Monsanto, P.O. Box 946, Stuttgart, Arkansas 72160-0946. Phone: 870-673-8565. 659. Honda, Kyoko. 1997. Tofu & soybean cooking: The Japanese healthy way. Translated by Kazuhiko Nagai. Tokyo: Graph-sha Ltd. 64 p. Dec. Illust. 26 cm. [Eng] Summary: This full-color Japanese-style cookbook is loaded with color photos showing both steps in the process of preparing recipes and the nished dishes. Contents: Basic preparations: Parboiling soybeans, draining tofu, reconstituting Kri-dofu, removing oil from abura-age, toasting okara. 1. Soybean cooking. 2. Tofu & natto dishes. 3. Other dishes from soybeans. Articles (summary of four articles), Chinese cheese Furu. Address: Sc.D. (Doctor of Science), nutritionist, and lecturer at Womens Junior College of Nippon College of Physical Education. 660. Grogan, Bryanna Clark. 1997. Twenty minutes to dinner: Quick, low-fat, low-calorie vegetarian meals. Summertown, Tennessee: The Book Publishing Co. 192 p. Illust. Index. 21 cm. Summary: This vegan cookbook contains a wealth of soy-related recipes. The glossary mentions tofu, soymilk, soymilk powder, tempeh, miso, soy sauce (shoyu, tamari) textured vegetable protein, Chinese condiments (hoisin sauce, Chinese black bean sauce, Chinese brown bean sauce, Szechuan hot bean paste), seitan, soy bacon bits or chips. In the section titled Ingredient substitutions, under Yeasted products we read (p. 15): I can think of no practical substitutes for light miso or certain fermented Chinese products like doufu-ru (Chinese fermented bean curd, which has a strong blue cheese type of avor). The recipe for Buffalo potato wedgies (an alternative to Hot wings) advises: Dip the crusty wedges into Vegetable Dip (p. 48)you can add a bit of crumbled, white Chinese fermented tofu (doufu-ru) to make it more like traditional blue cheese dressing or dip. Also includes soy-free options for recipes with tofu and soymilk. Address: Denman Island, east of Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada. 661. Keussink, Ruth. 1997. Soja und Sojaprodukte [Soybeans and soy products]. Bonn, Germany: Auswertungsund Informationsdienst fuer Ernaehrung, Landwirtschaft und Forsten (aid) e.V. 28 p. Illust. (Color photos). 21 cm. [14 ref.
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Ger] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Market and utilization. Soya in the diet: Protein, fat, carbohydrates, minerals and trace minerals, vitamins. OverviewSoy products: Whole soybeans, soy sprouts, soy oil, soy beverage, tofu, natto, sufu, tempeh, soy sauces, miso, soy lecithin, soy sausages, TVP. Processing soybeans. Soy ingredients and additives: Soy protein isolate, concentrate, soy bulk / ber (sojaballastoffe), fatty acids, lecithin, vitamin E (tocopherol). Product safety. Genetically engineered soybeans. Tips for buying and storing. Recipes. Address: Konstantinstr. 124, 53179, Bonn, Germany. 662. Passmore, Jacki. 1997. The vegetarian table: Thailand. San Francisco, California: Chronicle Books. 160 p. Illust. (color photos). Index. 24 cm. Summary: The author dedicates this book to Isobel, her daughter, friend and critic, who cant pass a day without tofu. The Introduction notes that Thailand has a strong and living Buddhist tradition. Since Nature provides plenty of food, Thai cuisine has evolved with a moderate use of red meat, following the Buddhist precepts on the slaughter of animals. But many Thais make an exception for seafood, with this charming rationale: If a sh is stupid enough to swim into a trap and die, then we may as well eat it! This book relies heavily on tofu as a meat alternative. The index has 28 entries at Tofu, so we will list only a few representative examples below. Contains a wealth of fullpage color photos. In place of widely used fermented shrimp and sh pastes, this book uses various salt-fermented soy products such as yellow bean sauce, Chinese bean pastes, fermented tofu in brine, and tempeh (p. 11). The Glossary denes the following that contain soy: Chili bean paste, fermented tofu, Hoisin sauce, kecap manis, soy sauce (3 types), tempeh, tofu (tao hoo in Thailand); The soybean is singularly one of the most important food plants in the world. Few other food products can match the versatility and goodness of tofu. Incl. rm tofu, soft tofu, fried tofu and bean curd sheets or sticks [yuba], yellow bean sauce. Soy-related recipes include: Classic Thai rice soup (with 6 oz. rm tofu, p. 74). Sweet and sour pomelo salad (with cup {3 oz.} cubed tempeh, p. 78). Green vegetable chu chee curry (with tofu or tempeh, p. 97). Vegetarian jungle curry (with fried tofu, p. 102). Tofu and beans with red curry paste (with fried tofu, p. 105). Clay pot of fried tofu and vegetables in brown sauce (p. 107). Stir-fried tempeh with garlic and pepper (p. 108). Stir fry of wheat gluten or tofu with straw mushrooms (p. 109). Tofu & tomato stir fry (p. 131). Thai fried rice with tofu and egg (p. 135). Pineapple fried rice (with rm tofu or tempeh, p. 136). Glutinous rice with peanuts and mushrooms (with diced fried tofu or tempeh, p. 141).
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663. Srisawat, Pinyo; Jonglertjesdawong, Yingsak. 1997. The vegetarian taste of Thailand: Vegetable, tofu & seafood dishes from Cha Am restaurant. Berkeley, California: SLG Books. 224 p. Illust. Index. 28 cm. Summary: Cha Am is a popular Thai restaurant which opened in Berkeley, California in 1985. This is a very beautiful and strange book. Beautiful because on every other page is a spectacular full-page color photo, showing the prepared recipes, ingredients, and many lovely scenes from Thailand. Strange because the word vegetarian is in the title, yet a large number of recipes call for sh or seafoods (which have never been eaten by vegetarians) as the main ingredient. Soy-related recipes include: Tau hoo neng: Steamed bean curd (p. 21). Tao hoo nam daeng: Bean curd stew (p. 27). Tao hoo op moor din: Clay pot bean curd (p. 33). Hoi jor name jim boi: Seafood rolls with plum sauce (p. 43; the lling is rolled in bean curd sheets [probably pressed tofu sheets, but possibly yuba], each 8 inches square). Tom som Tauhoo: Spicy bean curd soup (p. 63). Tao jiao lon: Spicy fermented soy bean dip (p. 185). On pages 212-13 are fullpage color photos of various Thai soybeans and soyfoods. The section titled Gluten (p. 214-17) describes this product and shows how to make it at home. Gluten is also used in recipes throughout the book. The interesting glossary (p. 221-24) includes descriptions of: Bean curd (tau hoo is soft tofu; tao kwa is rm tofu, used for stir-frying, deep-frying, and braising). Bean curd, fermented (tau hoo yee; the two most common types are red and white. The red variety is cured in a brine with fermented red rice avored with annatto seeds and rice wine). Bean curd, spongy (deep-frying gives tofu a spongy texture, so it can absorb the avors of any sauce in which it is cooked a second time). Bean sauce (a seasoning made from fermented soybeans, our, and salt. There are four popular types: yellow bean sauce, brown bean sauce, black bean sauce, and hot bean sauce. The preferred sauce is made from whole soybeans. The ground varieties are often quite salty). Beans, black fermented (also known as salted black beans, these are small black soybeans fermented with salt and spices. They are delicious when combined with garlic, fresh ginger, or chilies. Note: Fermented white soybeans are called tao jiao). Soy sauce (si iu; These recipes call for the Chinese rather than the Japanese type. The three most widely used soy sauces are light soy sauce {si iu khao}, dark soy sauce {si iu dam}, and mushroom soy sauce). Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the word tauhoo to refer to tofu. Address: Bangkok, Thailand. 664. New York Times.1998. Eating out. Jan. 16. p. E47. Summary: Contains a summary review of Taipei Wall Sea Street Taiwanese Restaurant, a full review of which by Ruth
Reichl appeared in this newspaper on 24 Feb. 1995 (p. C24). Mentions fermented bean curd. 665. Yasuda, Masaaki; Sakaguchi, Maki. 1998. Degradation of soybean protein by an acid protease from Monascus anka: Note. Food Science and Technology International (Tokyo) 4(1):6-8. Feb. [12 ref. Eng] Summary: The role of the enzyme in the process of ripening tofuyo was investigated. It was found that the digestion of soybean protein progressed as follows: initially, '-, -, and beta-subunits in beta-conglycin, and then, the acidic subunit in glycinin were degraded. However, the basic subunit of glycinin still remained, and some polypeptic bands (around 10 kDa [kilodaltons, a unit of molecular weight]) were formed during the enzyme reaction." The concentration of ethyl alcohol in the reaction mixtures affected the degradation rate of soybean protein by this enzyme. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1, Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-0213, Japan. 666. Franke, Adrian A.; Custer, L.J.; Wang, W.; Shi, C.Y. 1998. HPLC analysis of isoavonoids and other phenolic agents from foods and from human uids. Proceedings of the Society for Experimental Biology and Medicine [PSEBM] 217(3):263-73. March. [58 ref] Summary: Discusses: Soybeans (raw, dry, Singapore), soybeans (roasted), soybeans (toasted), green soybean pods, soy protein, soybean sprouts, tofu (raw), tofu (fermented, Singapore), curd (fermented), soy milk, soy cheese, Foo Jook (skimmed, dry supernatant [dried yuba sticks], raw, Singapore), Foo Jook (cooked), Tau Kwa, raw (pressed tofu, raw, Singapore), Tau Pok, raw (fried Tau Kwa, Singapore), bean curd (fried). Daidzein, genistein, glycitein. Address: 1-2. Cancer Research Center of Hawaii, 1236 Lauhala St., Honolulu, Hawaii 96813; 3-4. Dep. of Community, Occupational, and Family Medicine, National Univ. of Singapore, Singapore 0511, Republic of Singapore. 667. New York Times.1998. Queens welcomes big eaters: Good eating. May 3. p. CY32. Summary: Contains summaries of previous reviews of the Penang Cuisine Malaysia and the Taipei Wall Sea Street Taiwanese Restaurant, described in detail by Ruth Reichl in the 24 Feb. 1995 issue of this newspaper (p. C24). Mentions fermented bean curd, tofu, and fermented black beans. 668. Hutcheon, Robin. 1998. High-rise society: the rst 50 years of the Hong Kong Housing Society. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press; Hong Kong Housing Society. ix + 117 p. Illust. (some color). 22 x 30 cm. * Summary: Page 63: Hawkers also appreciated the open balconies of the older estates. They could trundle their carts of delicacies to the entrance and announce their presence and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU their snacks: red bean soup, grilled octopus, pigs tripe, tofu fa (soyabean junket [curds made from soymilk]), stinky tofu, dough sticks and special congee. Each hawker had his own special call which was sung or chanted rather than shouted. Tenants living in top oors would then call out their order, lower baskets on ropes with money, and collect their snacks without having to walk down six ights of stairs. Many hawkers made their fortunes from nightly visits to the estates. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term stinky tofu. 669. Ling, Kong Foong. 1998. Food of Asia: authentic recipes from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam. Singapore: Periplus. 160 p. Illust (color). Index. 31 cm. Summary: A very attractive book printed on glossy paper with at least one color photo on almost every page. The introduction and essays are by Kong Foong Ling. The index, which is poor, makes the book hard to use if you are looking for particular foods found throughout Asia such as soybeans, soy sauce, miso, salted / fermented black beans, yuba [bean curd skin], etc. Contents: The avors of Asia. Ingredients. The Asian kitchen. China. India. Indonesia. Japan. Malaysia & Singapore. Thailand. Vietnam. Appendix. The Ingredients section includes: Bean curd (incl. cotton or momen tofu, silken bean curd, deep-fried bean curd or aburage, grilled bean curd or yakidofu, fermented bean curd or nam yee). Bean curd skin [yuba]. Black beans, salted (and fermented). Hoisin sauce (A sweet sauce made of soy beans, with spicy and garlicky overtones). Miso (incl. red miso and white miso). Salted soy beans (incl. yellow bean sauce). Soy sauce (incl. light soy sauce, black soy sauce, red soy sauce, Kikkoman, tamari, thick sweet soy sauce (kecap manisIndonesian)). Tempeh. Also: Red beans (dried azuki). Seaweed (incl. dried kelp, golden kelp, mozuku, salted dried kelp, laver or nori, wakame). Sesame (black and white seeds, tahina {tahini}). Sesame oil. Sesame rice crackers. Beancurd or bean curd is mentioned on pages 12, 29-30, 34, 36, 88, 94, 101, 155. Fermented bean curd: p. 25. 670. Solomon, Charmaine; Solomon, Nina. 1998. Charmaine Solomons encyclopedia of Asian food. Boston, Massachusetts: Periplus Editions. xiv + 480 p. Color illust. ([28] p. of plates). 29 cm. [67* ref] Summary: An outstanding book; the color illustrations of many ingredients are spectacular and very informative. The author has an insatiable curiosity. Contents: List of illustrations. Introduction. How to use the Encyclopedia of Asian Food. Acknowledgements. A-Z of Asian Food. Bibliography. Illustrated index of selective ingredients. Index of recipes. Index of alternative words and
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main entries. Soy related entries: Bean curd (p. 26-28, incl. all the different types, yuba, deep-fried tofu types, fermented tofu incl. chou doufu [chou doufu]: Despite its overpowering aroma, slimy texture, unappetizing color and the unfortunate odor it leaves on the breath, those brave enough to partake of it consider it a delicacy). Bean paste, sweet (p. 29. The three colors and types are red {from adzuki beans}, yellow {from mung beans, husked and split}, or black {from black soy beans}. The pastes are usually available ready-made sweetened in cans. It is possible to make your own, starting out with dried beans. Name in Chinese: dow sa, tau sa {sweet bean paste}). Bean paste, yellow (p. 29. Despite what the label says, this thick, salty condiment is brown, not yellow, in color). Bean sauces (p. 29. Made from fermented soy beans, they range in color from yellow to brown to black [sweet black bean paste]. Their consistency is more like a pastes that must be spooned from the jar than pourable tomato ketchup). Beans, salted yellow (p. 31. Canned yellow soybeans which have been salted and fermented). Beef (p. 31-37 incl. Teriyaki steak, Sukiyaki, Beef with black bean sauce, incl. 2 tablespoons canned salted black beans [soy nuggets]). Black bean (p. 43-44. Black soy beans which are fermented and salted. Some are sold in cans in a salty liquid, others in plastic bags, covered with salt crystals. Also called preserved black beans). Flours & starches (p. 157-61). Incl. soy our, which is used mostly in Japan [where it is called kinako] and China. In Korea roasted soy bean our and fermented soy bean our are used to make a variety of bean pastes. Legumes & pulses (p. 206-18). A long and interesting section. All entries have a scientic name. Many have an illustration. Those found in many Asian countries (e.g., green bean, green pea) have the name in each country. Includes: Introduction, adzuki bean, asparagus bean (see winged bean), asparagus pea, black-eyed pea (a variety of cowpea), black gram, blue pea, broad bean, butter bean (see lima bean), chick pea, cowpea (see yard-long bean), fenugreek, green bean, green pea, hyacinth bean (see lablab bean), lablab bean, lentil, lima bean, long bean (see yardlong bean), moong bean (see mung bean), moth bean, mung bean, parkia, peanut, pigeon pea, red bean (see adzuki bean), red kidney bean, rice bean, sataw bean (see parkia), snow pea, soy bean (short entry), sugar snap pea, tamarind, white gram (see black gram), winged bean (China: su-ling dou; India: Goa bean; Indonesia: kecipir; Japan: shikakumame; Malaysia: kacang botor; Philippines: sigarilyas; Sri Lanka: dara-dhambala. Thailand: thua pu). Yard-long bean (this is the fresh bean known by a host of names). Recipes: Adzuki bean soup. Master sauce (p. 232). Also known as avour pot or lu, this sauce has a base of soy sauce, water, sugar and
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Chinese wine or sherry, with a few variable additions... Cooking with it is similar to red-cooking. Miso (see soy bean products). Mushrooms & fungi (p. 237-40, incl. recipe for Braised bean curd, cloud ear and vegetables, and Braised soy mushrooms). Natto (see soy bean products). Oils (p. 258-59, incl. coconut oil, gingelly oil [sesame oil], mustard oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, peanut oil, perilla oil, sesame oil). Note: Soy oil is not mentioned here! Okara (see soy bean products). Salads, incl. recipe for Indonesian vegetable salad (gado-gado), that calls for 4 oz. fried bean curd. Shoyu (see soy sauce). Soy bean, dried (349). China: da dau, wong dau, hak dau, tai dau. Indonesia: kacang kedelai. Japan: daizu. Korea: jaa jang. Malaysia: kedelai. Philippines: utaw. Thailand: thua lueang. Soy bean, fresh. China: mao dau. Indonesia: kacang soja. Japan: edamame. Malaysia: kacang soja. Recipe: Fresh soy beans with bean curd. Soy bean products (p. 350): Miso (incl. recipe for miso soup). Natto. Soy bean paste (go). Soy milk. Tahuri (Philippine fermented tofu). Tokwa (tokwan; very rm square tofu). Soy bean sprouts, with recipe for soy bean sprout salad. China: dai dau nga choi. India: bhat. Indonesia: kacang kedele, taugeh. Japan: daizu no moyashi. Korea: Kong namul. Malaysia: kacang soja, taugeh. Philippines: utaw. Thailand: thua-lueang. Soy sauce (p. 351-52). Chinese soy sauce: Dark soy sauce. Light soy sauce (Usually labeled superior soy). Mushroom soy sauce (Dark soy sauce that has been avored with straw mushrooms). Japanese soy sauces: Koikuchi (regular shoyu), tamari, usukuchi. Korean soy sauce (About the same colour as Chinese light soy sauce, but not as ercely salty and with a sweet malted aroma). Thick and avoured soy sauces: Kecap asin (A dark, salty soy sauce, from Indonesia, a little thicker than the dark soy of China). Kecap manis (A thick, sweet soy sauce from Java, Indonesia). Kicap cair: The Malaysian equivalent of light soy sauce. Kicap pekat: The Malaysian equivalent of dark soy sauce, though thicker than the Chinese version, but not as thick as kecap manis. Ponzu shoyu. Toyo mansi (p. 352): A soy sauce used in the Philippines soured with kalamansi juice. Tempeh (p. 386). Incl. recipes for Savoury Tempeh and Thai style tempeh. Tofu (see bean curd). Also discusses: Adzuki bean, agar-agar (incl. almond bean curd, awayuki), almond, amaranth, cowpea, crab in black bean sauce (recipe at crab), daikon, millet, monosodium glutamate (I would strongly recommend omitting it), Nonya (pronounced Nyonya. The unique cookery found in Malaysia and Singapore resulting from the fusion of Malay and Chinese cuisine during the last century), peanut, peanut sauce, sago (this palm owers only once in
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its life, at about age 15. Just before owering, it builds up a large reserve of starch in the pith. The tree is felled, the pith scooped out, ground and washed to make sago starch), seaweed (incl. agar-agar, hijiki, kombu / konbu, mozuku, nori / laver, wakame), sesame paste, sesame seed, vegetarian meals (By far the most important vegetarian food in the Far East... is bean curd). Address: Australia. 671. Liu, KeShun. 1999. Oriental soyfoods. In: C.Y.W. Ang, K. Liu, and Y-W. Huang, eds. 1999. Asian Foods: Science & Technology. Lancaster, Pennsylvania: Technomic Publishing Co., Inc. 546 p. See p. 139-99. Chap. 6. March. [60 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction: Soybeans as a crop, composition and nutritional quality of soybeans, soyfoods from the east to the west, soyfood classication. Soymilk: Introduction, traditional soymilk, modern soymilk (techniques for reducing beany avors, commercial methods, formulation and fortication, homogenization, thermal processing, and packaging), concentrated and powdered soymilk, fermented soymilk (with lactic acid bacteria), soymilk composition and standardization. Tofu: Introduction, methods of tofu preparation, factors involved in tofu making (soybean varieties, concentration of soymilk, heat process of soymilk, types of coagulants, concentration of coagulants, coagulation temperature, coagulation time, process automation, packaging), varieties of tofu (silken tofu, regular and rm tofu, Chinese semidry tofu {doufu gan}, Chinese tofu sheets and tofu noodles, lactone tofu), varieties of tofu products (deep-fried tofu, Japanese grilled tofu, frozen tofu, Japanese dried-frozen tofu, Chinese savory tofu, fermented tofu {Sufu or Chinese cheese, varieties of sufu, preparation methods, preparation principle}). Soymilk lm (yuba). Soybean sprouts. Green vegetable soybeans. Other non-fermented soyfoods: Okara, roasted soy powder. Fermented soy paste (Jiang and miso): Koji, koji starter, and inoculum (koji, koji starter, inoculum), Chinese jiang (traditional household method, pure culture method, enzymatic method), Japanese miso (preparing rice koji, treating soybeans, mixing and mashing, fermenting, pasteurizing and packaging), principles of making jiang or miso. Soy sauce (Jiangyou or shoyu): Chinese jiangyou (traditional household method, modern methods), Japanese shoyu (treatment of raw materials, koji making, brine fermentation, pressing, rening), principles of making soy sauce, chemical soy sauce (made by acid hydrolysis; heat with 18% hydrochloric acid for 8-12 hours, then neutralize with sodium carbonate and lter to remove insoluble materials), proximate composition of soy sauce, quality attributes and grades. Japanese natto: Methods of preparation, principles of preparation.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Indonesian tempeh: Traditional method, pilot plant method, principles of tempeh preparation. Soy nuggets (Douchi or Hamanatto): Chinese douchi, Japanese Hamanatto. Tables: (1) Names (English, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indonesian, Malay, Filipino) general description, and utilization of nonfermented Oriental soyfoods. (2) Names (English, Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Indonesian, Malay, Filipino) general description, and utilization of fermented Oriental soyfoods. (3) Proximate composition (gm per 100 gm fresh weight) of some fermented soyfoods. Figures show: (1) Flowchart: Traditional Chinese method for making soymilk and tofu (from whole soybeans). (2) A commercial processing method (Alfa Laval) for making soybase and a subsequent productsoymilk. (3) Photo of homemade rm tofu. (4) Photo of a dish of tofu and mushrooms. (5) Photo of cubes of sufu (Chinese cheese) on a white plate. (6) Flowchart for making sufu from rm tofu. (7) Photo of two packages of dried yuba sticks (Chinese). (8) Photo of a bowl of soy sprouts. (9) Photo of Chinese chiang, and Japanese red and white miso, each on one of three spoons in a shallow white bowl. (10) Flowchart of a common method for making Japanese rice miso [red miso]. (11) Photo of soy sauce in three different containers: dispenser, small bottle, and large Chinese can. (12) Flowchart of a common method for making Japanese koikuchi shoyu (soy sauce). (13) Photo of two chopsticks lifting some Japanese natto from a bowl full of natto; the thin strings connecting the natto above and below are clearly visible. (14) Flowchart of a common method for making Japanese natto from whole soybeans. (15) Photo of tempeh made in the USA in perforated plastic bags (Courtesy of Mr. Seth Tibbott, Turtle Island Foods, Inc., Hood River, Oregon). (16) Flowchart of traditional Indonesian method for making tempeh from whole soybeans. (17) Photo of Chinese douchi (soy nuggets) on a white plate. Note: For a biography of KeShun Liu PhD see p. 544. Address: PhD, Soyfoods Lab., Hartz Seed, A Unit of Monsanto, Stuttgart, Arkansas. 672. Yasuda, Masaaki; Aoyama, M.; Sakaguchi, M.; Nakachi, K.; Kobamoto, N. 1999. Purication and characterization of a soybean milk coagulating enzyme from Bacillus pumilus TYO-67. Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 51(4):474-79. April. [25 ref. Eng] Summary: Bacillus pumilus TYO-67 has been isolated from tofuyo, a traditional fermented food made from soybean milk in Okinawa, Japan. This bacterium secretes a soybeanmilk-coagulating enzyme (SMCE), which is essential for making tofuyo, however reports on this microbial enzyme are very limited, and its properties have not been sufciently characterized. This bacterium was found to be the best producer of SMCE, induced by the addition of soy protein to the growth
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medium. The enzyme was found to be a monomer with a molecular mass of about 30 kDa [kilodaltons] and an isoelectric point at 9.75. The optimum pH for the enzyme was 6.0 to 6.1 and the optimum temperature was 65C. The enzyme was signicantly activated by the addition of various ions and its thermal stability was signicantly increased by the addition of a Ca (2+) ion. This enzyme can be applied for the production of various processed foods from soy milk, and may also be widely applicable to other food processing. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-213 Japan. 673. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 1999. The book of tofu. 2nd ed. Revised. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. 336 p. May. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 28 cm. [321 ref] Summary: This edition contains a completely new Appendix BDirectory of Tofu Makers (p. 313-316, updated to 1 Aug. 1998). The page About the Authors (autobiographical) has been updated, and the original photograph has been replaced with two more recent ones reecting the fact that Bill and Akiko separated in Nov. 1993 and their marriage ended in May 1995. After the rst printing in Oct. 1998, the Preface was quite extensively revised (but not updated) to include more about how this book came into being (early dates and names), including the important contributions on Jeffrey and Gretchen Broadbent, and of Nahum and Beverly Stiskin. These Preface changes rst appeared in the second printing of May 1999. On page 336 is The Best of Vegetarian Cooking from Ten Speed Press (descriptions of eight cookbooks, with price and ISBN). The inside rear cover has been updated, and now includes current information about SoyaScan, the unique computerized database produced by Soyfoods Center. This database now contains more than 55,000 records from 1100 B.C. to the present, and more than 73% of all records have a summary / abstract averaging 128 words in length. A description of the four different types of records (published documents, commercial soy products, original interviews and overviews, and unpublished archival documents), and the number of each type, is given. The front and rear covers, title page, table of contents, and the rst page of each section have been redesigned to give the book a much more contemporary look. Still contains 500 vegetarian recipesboth western and eastern style. Ten Speed Press gave this book a new ISBN: 1-58009013-8. Yet despite the many changes described above, the authors preferred not to have this called a new edition or revised edition. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 925-283-2991. 674. Hesser, Amanda. 1999. Lessons on deciphering an
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Asian grocery: By the book. New York Times. Aug. 11. p. F5. Summary: The writer uses as her guide a new book: The Asian Grocery Store Demystied, by Linda Bladholm. She took the book with her on an excursion to Manhattans Chinatown, and discovered the principles by which an Asian market is stocked or organized. As I made my way, I saw smelled and learned about dried Chinese yam, dried oysters and fermented bean curd. 675. Lafferty, Elaine. 1999. Worlds biggest retailer might just be on its way here. Irish Times (Dublin). Nov. 20. p. 11. Summary: Expanding into each new country has unique difculties. In China, it took Walmart a while to manufacture fermented bean curd. Photos show: Sam Walton (once Americas richest man) and the front of a typical Walmart store. 676. Bladholm, Linda. 1999. The Asian grocery store demystied: A food lovers guide to all the best ingredients. Los Angeles, California: Renaissance Books. 234 p. Foreword by Jonathan Eismann. Illust. Index. 23 x 13 cm. Series: A Take it With You Guide. Summary: An original, well-researched and well-written bookthough some of the terminology (such as beancurd) is outdated. Soyfood products include: Beancurd noodles (p. 38). Kinako (p. 47). Soy sauce, mushroom soy sauce, kecap manis (p. 53). Hoisin sauce (p. 54). Chapter 10, titled Soybean products (p. 93-99) includes: Black bean sauce, dried soybeans, tempeh, beancurd (pressed beancurd, deep-fried beancurd, savory grilled beancurd {yaki-tofu}, freeze-dried beancurd {koyadofu}, bean curd sheets {yuba}), fermented beans (preserved black beans {tau see}, bean sauce, toen-jang, chili/hot bean sauce, fermented beancurd), okara, edamame, soybean sprouts, soy milk. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (March 2009) that uses the word toen-jang (or toen jang) to refer to Korean-style soybean jang (miso). Concerning preserved black beans: Also called salted or fermented black beans or tau see, this is made by steaming small black soybeans, then fermenting them with salt and spices. Used in a variety of dishes to add a pleasant rich aroma and salty taste... Crush or mash beans slightly to release more avor or mix with garlic, fresh ginger, or chilies. Available in small glass jars, cans, and plastic bags. They should feel soft and not be dried out... Look for Pearl River Bridge brand labeled Yang Jiang Preserved Beans in a 1-pound yellow canister, and Koon Chun Sauce Factory, Double Parrot, and Zu Miao Trademark brands all in 8-ounce bags. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2008) that uses the term tau see to refer to Chinese-style soy nuggets (preserved black beans). Concerning bean sauce: Varieties of this Asian staple include yellow bean sauce, brown bean sauce, bean paste
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(tau jeong), or sweet bean condiment. All are made from yellow or black soybeans, fermented with salt and in the sweet Northern Chinese type, with sugar-sweetened crushed yellow [soy] beans. Two forms are found: whole beans in a thick sauce and bean paste, which is mashed, ground or pureed beans. The whole bean type has a rounder avor and adds texture, while the pastes are very salty and should be used sparingly... The yellow bean paste is tau cheo... Sold in glass jars and cans. Look for Koon Chun Sauce Factory, Kon Yick Wah Kee bean sauce, Amoy, or Yeos. Chapter 18, titled Japanese food products (p. 16881) includes: Tsukemono (pickled in miso), miso paste, shiromiso, akamiso, mamemiso, natto, miso soup, noodle dipping sauce base (memmi), tamari sauce, teriyaki sauce, tonkatsu sauce. Interesting non-soy products include: Sesame paste (p. 57). Satay sauce (with peanuts), gado-gado-dressing (p. 58). Peanut oil (p. 64). Sesame oil (p. 65). Amaranth (vegetable, p. 72). Winged beans (p. 76). Pickled wheat gluten (p. 108). Sesame seeds, peanuts, roasted peanuts (p. 118). Red/azuki beans, agar-agar (p. 121). Wheat gluten (p. 127). Sesame candy, peanut roll (p. 136). Sesame seed and peanut cookies (p. 137). Sweet red bean paste (azuki an, p. 139). Coix seed (Jobs tears, p. 165). Japanese seaweed and kelp (p. 169-70). Umeboshi (p. 171). Fu (dried wheat gluten cakes), mochi (p. 177). Address: Writer, designer, illustrator and photographer, Miami Beach, Florida. 677. Davidson, Alan. 1999. The Oxford companion to food. New York, NY and Oxford, England: Oxford University Press. xviii + 892 p. Illust. by Soun Vannithone. Index. 29 cm. [1500+* ref] Summary: The 2,650 alphabetical entries in this excellent encyclopedia and cornucopia represent 20 years of Davidsons work. The 175 illustrations by Laotian artist Soun Vannithone are superb. There are 39 longer entries about staple foods such as rice, noodles, and apples. A comprehensive bibliography provides access to further information. The book does not contain recipes. Soy-related entries include: Bean sprouts (p. 64). Black beans, fermented (chi, p. 79). Kecap (Indonesian soy sauce, made basically from soya beans and palm sugar only. The word kecap has passed into the English language as catchup or catsup and then as Ketchup, which now means something quite different. p. 429). Ketchup (probably via the Malay word kechap, now spelled kecap, which means soy sauce. The word was brought back to Europe by Dutch traders who also brought the oriental sauce itself. The sauce has changed far more than has the word, although the name has appeared in a large number of variations such as catchup and catsup. Discusses tomato ketchup, mushroom ketchup, and ketchup made from oysters, mussels, walnuts, etc., p. 430-31). Koji (p. 435). Lecithin (p. 447). Miso (p. 509). Natto (p. 530). Soybean (p. 739). Soy milk (p. 739-40). Soy sauce (p. 740).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Tempe (or tempeh, p. 788). Tofu (p. 798-99), including plain tofu (doufu in Chinese), pressed tofu (doufu-kan, sic, doufugan), wu-hsiang kan, cotton tofu or momendofu, kinugoshi or silk tofu, sui-doufu, freeze-dried tofu [dried frozen tofu], smoked tofu. Cooked forms of tofu: Deep-fried tofu, doufu pok, cha-dofu, abura ag or deep-fried thin slices which can be opened to make Inari-zushi, ganmodoki or deepfried tofu balls, yaki-dofu or tofu which has been grilled. Fermented tofu: The generic term is doufu-ru. The most popular type is white doufu-ru, and there is red doufu-ru, tsao-doufu, chou doufu [chou doufu], chiang doufu. In the Philippines fermented tofu is called tausi [sic, tahuri, tahuli]. Miscellaneous: A specialty of Japan is umesutsuke, tofu pickled in plum vinegar with a purple exterior. Note: As of Oct. 2011 not one hit / result for umesutsuke can be found on Google. Nor have we ever heard of such a Japanese tofu product. Dofu nao (literally bean brain) or smooth curds, yuba or bean curd skin or tofu skin, okara or presscake (pulped skins of soya beans) (p. 798-99). Yuba (p. 860-61). Also discusses: Alfalfa (p. 10). Almond (p. 12-13, incl. almond milk). Amaranth (p. 13). American cookbooks, history (p. 15-17). Azuki beans (p. 44-45). Barley, barley breads, and barley sugar (p. 58-60). BeefBSE (mad cow disease, p. 68). Chia (p. 166). Cowpea (p. 230-31). Chufa (p. 185). English cookery books, history (p. 276-80). Five grains of China (p. 305). Gluten (p. 341). Groundnuts (or peanuts, p. 356-57). Hemp (p. 377-78). Hydrogenation (p. 391). Japanese culinary terms (p. 415-17). Kudzu (p. 437). Linseed (p. 454-55). Lupin (p. 463). Margarine (p. 478-79). Mung bean (p. 518). Nori (p. 534). Noodles of China (p. 537, incl. Gan si {soya bean noodles} and Fen si {also fen-szu} {mung bean vermicelli}). Oncom (p. 553-54). Quark (p. 644). Quinoa (p. 645). Seaweeds (incl. hijiki, kombu/konbu, nori, wakame, etc., p. 712). Sesame (p. 713). Shortening (p. 721-22). Sprouts (no listing). Tahini (p. 779). Toast (p. 797, incl. Melba toast). Ume and umeboshi (p. 817). Winged bean (p. 849). The entry for Fermentation states that the two main reasons for subjecting a food to fermentation are: (1) To convert it from a form that will not keep, such a milk, to one which will, such as cheese. (2) To make foods which are indigestible in their original state, such as wheat or soya beans, digestible by turning them into products such as bread or tempe. Other benets include improvements in avour. Many do not realize that fermentation is part of the process of making coffee, cocoa, vanilla, and many kinds of sausage. A brief biography and nice portrait photo of Alan Davidson, a man of extraordinary knowledge in the world of food, appear on the rear dust jacket. Note: The paperback edition of this book (2002) is titled The Penguin companion to food. Address: Worlds End, Chelsea, London, England. 678. Mowe, Rosalind. ed. 1999. Southeast Asian specialties:
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A culinary journey through Singapore, Malaysia, and Indonesia. Cologne, Germany: Culinaria Koenemann. 319 p. Illust. (color photos by Gnter Beer). Index. 26 x 22 cm. Summary: Translated from the German. Includes headings in Chinese. This book is a feast for the eyes, printed on glossy paper with informative color photos on almost ever page. The structure and content are also creative and very interesting; it has caught the heart and spirit and nuances of the culture. On some pages, however, the type is too small to read. The name of most recipes and ingredients is given in their native language. A 2-page map of Southeast Asia appears near the front. The basic structure: Singapore (p. 12-109). Malaysia (p. 110-215). Indonesia (p. 216-301). Glossary (p. 302-04). Introduction to Chinese nutritional theory, by Andrea Flling (p. 305-06): Introduction, yin and yang, the three warmers, the warming effect of foods (the ve energy states are hot, warm, neutral, refreshing, and cold), the ve elements. Acknowledgements. Photo credits. Index. The contents includes: Healing herbs (p. 26-29). Soup as medicine (p. 30-33). Soybean (in Singapore, p. 40-47): Introduction (familiar forms are sprouts, soy sauce, beancurd, tempeh; new disguises are vegetable protein, emulsier, lecithin, vegetable oil which are found in dairy products, canned sh, candies, desserts, and much more), in the West soybeans are often grown as monocultures, with the disadvantages that this entails, such as the use of chemical fertilizers and pesticides, and genetically engineered soybeans, great nutritional value yet rarely used as whole dry soybeans, most of the harvest in SE Asia is processed into beancurd and tempeh, importance of fermentation, soy milk resembles cows milk and is an excellent substitute, soy sauce is used throughout this cuisine. Photo of green soybean plants with green pods. Soybean sprouts: Black soybeans are imported from Thailand and Myanmar (Burma). After washing, the beans are spread out in deep baskets and kept in the dark for 6 days. Before the baskets of sprouts can be sold, the top layer if green leaves is trimmed off. They are used as feed for chickens and ducks. One basket yields 154 lb (70 kg) and the output of a medium-sized business is 60 baskets a day. Soybean sprouts should never be eaten raw, nor should they be cooked for too long. Mung bean sprouts are better know than soy sprouts, but both can be bought fresh. Dou ban jiang (Salted soya bean sauce. Photo of jar and Sinsin label). Dou chi (Black bean sauce. Photo of jar and Sinsin label). Note: Typically Dou chi are named Salted black beans. Photo of ve glasses showing how dry soybeans are transformed into soymilk, then curds. Tofu: Meat from the elds (p. 42-44). The best tofu is made from special types of soybeans that are different from those that are crushed to make oil and meal. Most of the tofu in Singapore is made from soybeans imported from Canada. Describes the basic process for making commercial pressed
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU tofu or soft tofu, with 7 photos showing the steps. Implies that making yuba is part of the process for making tofu; it is eventually sold as dried beancurd sticks (fu chok). Soy milk products: Fu peidried tofu skin [yuba]. Fu chokdried tofu sticks [dried bamboo yuba]. Tim choksweet tofu pieces [sic, sweet yuba / ama-yuba]. Tofu fasoft tofu as a dessert [tofu curds]; a little tapioca our may be added. Served warm or cold with a syrup avored with almond extract. Color photo shows yellow yuba atop hot soymilk, and a woman removing a slab pressed tofu from its mold. Tofu recipes for every taste (p. 44-45): Tofu on its own is rather bland in taste, but this is precisely its strength, since when it is combined with different ingredients and condiments it tastes new and different every time. Recipes: Niang dou fu (Fried beancurd pockets). Xia ren dou fu (Stir-fried beancurd with jumbo shrimp). Hong shao dou fu (Braised beancurd). Sui rou zheng dou fu (Steamed soft beancurd with ground pork). Dou hua (Sweet beancurd dessert). Zha fu pi juan (fried beancurd skin [yuba] roll). Color photos show the 2nd and last recipes. Soy sauce (p. 46-47): A naturally fermented product made with mold cultures of Aspergillus oryzae. Describes the process for both light and dark soy sauce; the koji is made in shallow round trays, ready after 4 days. It is then transferred into berglass tanks [or earthenware jars], covered with brine, and left to ferment for 3 months, after which the 1st extraction of crude soy sauce takes place [but not through pressure]. More brine is added and a second extraction takes place 1 month later; this process is repeated for the third extraction. At this point, the paths of the different soy sauces diverge. The saltier, light-colored soy sauce is mixed with a preservative, pasteurized, and stored in tanks to clarify before bottling. The dark soy sauce is mixed with both a preservative and caramel coloring, is allowed to mature for an additional 4 weeks, then is pasteurized and bottled. Note: What happens to the 2nd and third extractions? Color photos show ve steps in the process, but a traditional earthenware vat is shown instead of the berglass tanks. Dark soy sauce is thicker than light. Recipes: Jiang you ji (Chicken in soy sauce, with marinade). Hong shao niu nan (Braised shoulder of beef). Oyster sauce (contains no soy). Sesame oil (p. 49, with 7 photos). Condiments (p. 50-51): Color photos show the front and label of 15 separate jars and bottles with a substantial description under each. Those containing soy are: Hoisin sauce. Dou chi (Fermented bean dried). Dou ban jiang (Tou cheong). Fu ru (Beancurd preserved). Jang qing (light soy sauce). Hei jiang you (Dark soy sauce). Tian jiang (Sweet sauce). Peking duck (p. 62-65; soybean paste {no Chinese name is given} and Hoisin sauce are ingredients in the sauce). One key is the crisp skin. It is served in thin Mandarin pancakes. Suckling pig (p. 86-87): Piglets are bred in Hunan
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province. Slaughtered at the age of 3-4 months. After a dead piglet has been patted dry, it is brushed with soy sauce, then coated with a marinade that includes fermented red bean curd and light soy sauce. As with Peking Duck, suckling pig is prized for its crisp, tasty skin. Six photos show the skewered baby pig. Symbolic foods (p. 98-101): One of these is Moon Cakes from the mid-autumn festival (15th day of the 8th lunar month). Traditional llings include sweet black bean or lotus paste. Is the sweet black bean lling made from soy beans? Instant cup noodles [instant ramen] (p. 48): Note: Wikipedia says at Momofuku Ando: ORS [Order of the Rising Sun], (lived March 5, 1910Jan. 5, 2007) was the Taiwanese-Japanese businessman who founded Nissin Food Products Co., Ltd. He is famed as the inventor of instant noodles and cup noodles, which he launched on 25 Aug. 1958 (at age 48) under the name Chikin Ramenafter months of trial and error experimentation to perfect his ash-frying method. On 18 Sept. 1981 he launched his most famous product, Cup Noodle. Beansprouts (p. 154-57): With a long introduction, a description of the process, beautiful photos, and recipes: Taugeh goreng kucai (Fried beansprouts with chives). Taugeh masak kerang (Fried beansprouts with baby clams). Tahu goreng (Fried tofu with beansprouts). Bihun goreng (Fried rice noodles). Urap taugeh (Fried beansprouts with grated coconut). Nasi tumpeng (rice cone) (p. 220). Served with sambal goreng tempe (crisp-fried marinated strips of tempeh). Gudeg (rice with green jackfruit cooked in a sweet sauce, p. 221) is served with a side dish of tahu goreng bacem (tofu coked with spices, then fried). Tempeh (p. 228-29), soybeans fermented with Rhizopus oligosporus mold. Indonesians consume more tempeh than tofu. The process is described, with 4 color photos: Recipe: Tempe goreng (fried tempeh). Glossary (p. 302-04) includes: Fermentation. Soy sauce (Probably the best-known Asian seasoning agent,...). Sticky rice (also known as glutinous rice). Tahu (Indonesian; tofu). Tempeh. Tofu (beancurd, incl. hard, soft, and smoked). 679. Fort, Matthew. 2000. Braised or roasted, sir: France is shocked by the news that a man has been caught eating his dogs. But why are we so horried by the idea of cooking our pets? Guardian (England). May 26. p. A6. Summary: Earlier this week a man in France was ned 300 for eating an unknown number of dogs in his care. Unfortunately, we were told nothing about how he cooked them. Did he, for example, braise them with soy sauce, sugar, fermented bean curd, dried bean curd [probably doufu-gan, which is pressed tofu], water and white wine to make the classic Chinese dish of hon tsao go zo (red cooked dog)?
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Or did he favor the Hawaiian style spatchcocking them and grilling them on the barbecue with sweet potatoes? 680. Li, Lite; Li, Shujun. 2000. Reviews on Chinese fermented soybean foods. In: Kyoko Saio, ed. 2000. ProceedingsThird International Soybean Processing and Utilization Conference. Tokyo, Japan: Korin Publishing Co., Ltd. [xxiv] + 728 + 8 p. See p. 701-06. [8 ref] Summary: Contains excellent, original and detailed information about fermented tofu (sufu) and soy nuggets (douchi). Contents: Introduction. Developing history of soybean and soybean foods in China: History of soybean cultivation in China (it began about 4-5,000 years ago), distribution and yield of soybean in China, important role of soybean in Chinese food culture and diet, fermented soybean foods. Present situation of fermented soybean foods in China: Kinds and distribution of Chinese fermented soybean foods (sufu, douchi, doujiang, soy sauce, etc.), processing technology and applied microorganisms for Chinese traditional fermented soybean foods (Sufuclassication of sufu, processing technology of sufu, microorganisms used in mold cultivation, microorganisms used in fermentation; Douchisame categories). Developing tendency and countermeasure of fermented soybean foods. Classication of sufu: (1) According to the color and avor of product: red sufu, white sufu, green sufu, sauce sufu, colored sufu. According to the morphology of the product: biggest rectangle sufu, big sufu, middle rectangle sufu, chess sufu. Based on the type of microorganism applied in the process: bacterium sufu, mould sufu, halophilic pediococcus sufu. Figures show: (1) The main soybean producing provinces in China (1996): Heilongjiang 31%. Shandong 9%. Henan 7%. Hebei 6%. Inner Mongolia 6%. Jilin 5%. Other 36%. Tables show: (1) Steps in two types of sufu production: Mould sufu, and halophilic pediococcus production. (2) Species of microorganisms (16) isolated from sufu and the area of sufu production. (3) Characteristics of main kinds of Mucor applied in Sufu-making (for main kinds; for each kind is given: mycelium, sporangiophore, sporangiospore, spore axis, thick spore suitable temperature). (4) Brief introduction to six famous douchi: Four of the six are made using black soybeans (a) Sichuan province, Santai county. History goes back more than 300 years. Made with Mucor racemosus mold (naturally fermenting). (b) Sichuan: Yong Chuan Douchi, a famous brand. Made with Mucor mold. History goes back more than 300 years. (c) Hong chang fa douchi. About 60 year history. (d) Yang jiang douchi (Yangjiang douchi), made with Aspergillus mold and black soybeans. Note: Yangjiang is a city in Guangdong province, China. (e) Liu yang douchi (Liuyang douchi), made with Aspergillus mold and black soybeans. (f) Lin yi shui douchi, fermented
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with a bacterium. History goes back more than 130 years. Address: China Agriculture University, Beijing 100083. 681. Maneepun, Saipin. 2000. Prospect of traditional fermented soybean products in Thailand. In: Kyoko Saio, ed. 2000. ProceedingsThird International Soybean Processing and Utilization Conference. Tokyo, Japan: Korin Publishing Co., Ltd. [xxiv] + 728 + 8 p. See p. 707-10. [8 ref] Summary: Tables: (1) Traditional fermented soybean products in Thailand. Soysauce (local name si-iu). Soypaste [Thai miso] (local name tao-chew). Fermented soy curd [fermented tofu] (local name taohu-yi). Made in central Thailand using bacteria, yeasts and molds (Actinomucor elegans) on tofu cubes. They are yellowish or red in color. The yellowish product is eaten directly as a relish, whereas the red product is cooked with vegetables or meat. Making fermented soy curd involved three steps: preparing the tofu, molding, and brine fermentation and aging. First a pure culture of the mold is applied to the surface. Then it is incubated at 20C for 3-7 days. Finally it is aged in brine for about 40-60 days to develop avor and aroma. Used as both a main dish and avoring agent. The product is made in small-scale factories, as well as in soysauce and soypaste factories. The composition is given in Table 2. Fermented whole soybean (local name thua-nao). Made in north Thailand from whole soybeans fermented with bacteria [like Japanese natto]. A paste or solid used as a main dish or avoring. Imitation fried pork rind (local name kap-mu-tiem). Made in north Thailand from fermented tofu. A solid. Used as a snack. Address: Inst. of Food Research and Product Development, Kasetsart Univ., Bangkok 10903, Thailand. 682. Nikkei Shinbun (Tokyo).2000. Bei ni reit tfu kj: Genchi meekaa baishu mo suishin. Tendore [Frozen tofu factory in America: Also push to buy local tofu makers. Tendre]. [Jap] Summary: The American Soy & Tofu Co. has been incorporated in Massachusetts by Michio Kushi. They hope to raise $15 million and are now raising venture capital. They plan to purchase 18 local tofu makers. The four prospective partners are: American farmers $2.6 million. East West Foundation (Kushi) $2.0 million. Tendre, a maker of frozen tofu from Wakayama prefecture, Japan $1.0 million. Michio Kushi $1.0 million. The company is planning to build a factory in Macon, Georgia, and to make tofu, margarine, and cheese. Talk with Christine Akbar, who works with Michio Kushi at his home. 2000. Nov. 20. Macon, Georgia is the center for Japanese cherry trees in America; some 200,000 to 300,000 cherry trees now grow there. Mr. Kato who is head of the International Cherry Park Commission in Japan
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU wants to disseminate Japanese cherry trees all over the world. His dream is to buy several hundred acres of land in Macon, Georgia, and to plant cherry trees in the form of a huge American ag: Red blossoms for the red stripes, white blossoms for the white stripes, and a 40-acre reecting pond for the eld of blue, with sprinklers coming out for the 50 stars. Each tree will have a donor/sponsor, whose name will appear on a plaque on or by the tree. Mr. Kato is from Wakayama, and he established a connection with the Tendre company which makes frozen tofu there. On the part of this land not used for cherry trees, Mr. Kato and Michio Kushi would like to build a factory to make soy products for the company he has startedAmerican Soy and Tofu Co. Mr. Kato discovered Tendre; they could make frozen tofu in the factory. Aveline discovered the Okinawan fermented tofu named Tofuyo, which she loves; she would like to learn how to make it at the factory. Fred Sternau, who lives and works in New York state, (phone: 914-763-3662) is an old friend of Michios, and has a background in the investment banking business with Dean-Witter, is working now to raise the money from venture capitalists in America for the new corporation, and to develop a business plan. Christine thinks that someone else is working to raise money in Japan. Christine thinks that some money has been committed but she does not think that any of it has been transferred. We should know more in one month. Its just getting started. Note: Hiroaki Iwamoto is president of Tendre, Tanabe City, Wakayama prefecture. He holds a patent on his frozen tofu. 683. Huang, H.T. 2000. Science and civilisation in China. Vol. 6, Biology and biological technology. Part V: Fermentations and food science. Joseph Needham series. Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. xxviii + 741 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. [200+ soy ref] Summary: This is the most important book on soyfoods in China ever written, and it is especially good on their origins and early history in China. It is also one of the best books seen on food in Chinese culture and history. The section titled Soybean processing and fermentation (p. 292-378) comprises 14.3% of the books text, and has the following contents: Introduction. Soybean sprouts. Soybean curd and related products: The origin of bean curd, transmission of tou fu to Japan, products associated with tou fu (soymilk {tou fu chiang}, tofu curds {tou fu hua or tou fu nao}, pressed tofu sheets {chien chang or pai yeh}, yuba {tou fu i or tou fu pi}, deep-fried tofu {yu tou fu or tou fu pao}, pressed tofu {tou fu kan}, ve-spice pressed tofu {wu hsiang tou fu kan}, plain dried tofu [pressed tofu] {pai tou fu gan}, smoked tofu {hsn tou fu}, dried tofu soaked in brine and fermented {chou tou fu kan}, frozen tofu {tung tou fu}), making fermented tofu {fu ju}, comparison of tou fu and cheese, addendum. Fermented soybeans, soy paste, and soy sauce: Ferments for food processing,
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fermented soybeansshih, fermented soy pastechiang, fermented soy saucechiang yu, soy fermentations in China and Japan. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Feb. 2004) that uses the term hsn tou fu [pinyin: xun doufu] to refer to smoked tofu. Soy is also discussed in other parts of the book. Address: Alexandria, Virginia. 684. Huang, H.T. 2000. Making of fermented tou fu. (Document part). In: H.T. Huang. 2000. Science and Civilisation in China. Vol. 6, Biology and Biological Technology. Part V: Fermentations and Food Science. Joseph Needham series. Cambridge, England: Cambridge University Press. xxviii + 741 p. See p. 325-28. [12 ref] Summary: Table 29 (p. 322) shows a Family of products related to soybean curd. The last item in this Fuju (3 Cc = 3 Chinese characters are given). Description: Fermented tou fu. In China it has long been renowned as one of those special gastronomic delectables that is often irresistible to the acionado but obnoxious to the uninitiated. The process for making it is the most interesting of all the products made from tofu, and therefore it deserves a more extensive treatment than the others. The earliest known reference to fermented tofu is found in the Penglong Yehua [Night discourses by the Penglong mountain], by Li Rihua (who lived from 1565 to 1635). This document [which probably appeared in about 1610]. It says that the people in a particular district in southern Anhui province [in central eastern China] love to ferment tofu in the fall. They wait until it is covered with a hairy coat [of natural mold]. They carefully wipe off the hair and gently dry the cake. Then it is deep fried in hot oil, then drained and cooked with other foods. It is said to have the avor of yu sh. In 1680 a more detailed description of making fermented tofu (Fukien-style) appeared in the Shixian Hongmi [Guide to the mysteries of cuisine]. The best time to make this product is in the spring or fall. After the pieces of tofu are covered with a hairy growth, wipe off the hair with a piece of paper. Now make a mixture soy sauce, salt. Grind fresh red ferment, peppercorn, fennel and liquorice; mix the powder with salt and wine. Place the tofu in a jar and add the wine sauce mixture. Seal the mouth of the urn with clay, and allow it to stand for 6 months. The resulting product will have an excellent avor. Two other passages in this same book are also of interest. One describes the process for making tsao ju fu (3 CC), i.e. fermented tofu aged in the residual mash of grain wine. The other describes how to make doufu fu (3 CC) a deep fried stinky dewatered tofu. Take good quality [pieces of] tofu and grill in oil. Then cover with a cloth screen to keep out ies and other insects. When a stinky odour is developed, fry the pieces again in hot boiling oil. The avor is excellent. Note: This stinky tofu is probably chou doufu.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU From these passages we see that by 1680 furu and rufu had apparently become synonyms for fermented tofu. By the middle of the Qing (Manchu) dynasty (16441912; i.e. by about 1780) fermented tofu had begun to be famous nationwide. There was the furu of Suzhou (Suchow, a major city near the mouth of the Yangtze river in Jiangsu province in Eastern China), and there was the furu of Guangxi (Kuangsi, Kwangsi, a province in southern China along its border with Vietnam). In 1790 the Suiyuan Shidan [Recipes from the Sui garden], by Yuan Mei praises the fermented tofu made in Suzhou and Guangxi. Technically the most interesting descriptions for making fermented tofu appeared in about 1750 in the Xingyuan Lu [Memoir from the garden of awareness]. It gave ve recipes and two different methods. In the second method, the molded tofu is allowed to age in the mash left from the fermentation of wine made from grains. The molds responsible for converting tofu into fermented tofu in China have been isolated. The most important ones appear to be Mucor sufu, Mucor rouxanus, Mucor wutuongkiao, Mucor racemosus, Mucor sinensis (later identied as Actinomucor elegans) and Mucor dispersus. In China, fermented tofu is typically packaged in squares about 3 inches wide and 3/4 inch thick. Because of its high salt content, fermented tofu is used as a seasoning to accompany bland foods such as rice congee or rice, or to avor other cooked foods. The next section (p. 328-30) is a Comparison of tofu and cheese. There is no evidence the Western style cheese, made by curdling dairy milk with the enzyme rennet, was ever made in traditional China even though dairy products were an important part of the Chinese diet, in both the north and south, during the Tang and Song dynasties. Note: Dr. Huang has been unable to nd any mention of fermented tofu in the Bencao Gangmu [The Great Pharmacopoeia], by Li Shizen (1596). Address: Alexandria, Virginia. 685. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 2000. Tofu & soymilk production. 3rd ed. Lafayette, California: Soyfoods Center. 336 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. Dec. 28 cm. [223 ref] Summary: Contains many new advertisements, plus changes on the title page, copyright page, and rear cover of both paperback and hardcover editions (new ISBN for each). Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 925-283-2991. 686. Cost, Bruce. 2000. Asian ingredients: A guide to foodstuffs of China, Japan, Korea, Thailand, and Vietnam. New York, NY: HarperCollins. xiv + 322 p. Illust. 24 cm. * Summary: The contents of this book is almost identical to
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that of the original 1988 edition. This is not a new edition. 687. Evans, K. Lee; Rankin, Chris. 2000. Giant book of tofu cooking. New York, NY: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc. 256 p. Illust. (color photos). Index. 28 cm. Summary: A beautiful vegetarian cookbook, with many color photos on glossy paper, excellent use of standard terminology (except for freeze-dried tofu), and 350 healthful, delicious recipes. Contents: Introduction. Tofu basics and techniques: Getting started (buying tofu {soft tofu, form tofu, extra-rm tofu, silken tofu, marinated tofu, smoked tofu, freeze-dried tofu, fermented tofu}, storing tofu, preparing tofu for your recipes {draining and blotting, pressing, freezing and thawing, blending, cubing and dicing, crumbling, shredding / grating, marinating, boiling slightly sour tofu, frying, deep-frying}), other soy products (edamame, meat alternatives, miso, soy cheese, soy our, soy ice cream, soy milk, soy sauce, soy sprouts, soy yogurt, soynut butter, soynuts, tempeh, textured soy protein, whole dry soybeans), tofu and a healthier you (introduction, protein, heart disease, cancer, menopause, osteoporosis, our planet), simple ingredient substitutions (eggs, milk, cheese, butter, salt, sugar {honey, molasses, maple syrup, rice syrup, barley malt syrup}). Ingredient glossary: Incl. arrowroot, balsamic vinegar, bamboo shoots, barley malt syrup, fermented Chinese black beans, l powder, galangal, garam masala, garbanzo beans, Hoisin sauce, liquid smoke, mirin, miso, nutritional yeast, phylo or lo, pickled ginger, quinoa, rice noodles, rice papers, rice syrup, sake, shoyu, tahini, toasted sesame oil, vegetarian gelatin, vegetarian Worcestershire sauce (Just like the original, it is made of soy, vinegar, and spices, but without the anchovies), wakame, wheat germ. Breakfast. Appetizers. Soups. Salads. Lunch and dinner. Dressings, sauces, and spreads. Desserts. Metric conversion chart. Acknowledgments. 688. Kulp, Karel; Ponte, Joseph G., Jr. eds. 2000. Handbook of cereal science and technology. 2nd ed., revised and expanded. New York, NY: Marcel Dekker. ix + 790 p. Illust. Index. 29 cm. Series: Food Science and Technology, No. 99. Summary: Chapter 26, Fermentation and microbiological processes in cereal foods, by Pierre Glinas and Carole McKinnon (of Food Research and Development Centre, Agriculture and Agri-Food Canada, St. Hyacinthe, Quebec, Canada) (39 refs) (p. 741-54) contains a long table (p. 74246) titled List of foods prepared from fermented cereals. The four columns are: (1) Food name (synonym or related food). (2) Food type (characteristics). (3) Area (country or continent). (4) Main microorganisms. Under Soybeans the following foods a listed: Cheefan. Chinese yeast. Hama-natto. Kenima. Ketjap. Meitauza. Meju. Miso (chiang, doenjang, kochujang, tauco). Natto. Soy sauce (kanjang, kecap, kicap, shoyu, taosi [sic]). Sufu (tahuri, taokoan tao-hu-yi). Tairu (tairefermented soybean
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU milk, like yogurt, from Malaysia). Taotjo. Tempe (tempeh). Chee-fan is described as Curd-like [fermented tofu] from China. Main microorganisms: Mucor spp., Aspergillus glaucus. Note 1. Taokoan (listed under Sufu, above) is not a fermented food. It is the Filipino equivalent of Chinese doufu-gan or pressed tofu. Filipino fermented tofu is tahuri (also spelled tahuli). Table 2, List of representative microorganisms associated with fermented cereal foods (p. 74-48) contains two columns: (1) Type of microorganism (and within type, genus and species, listed alphabetically by genus). (2) Food produced. Under Bacteria are: Bacillus nattoHama-natto [sic], natto. Lactobacillus delbrueckiiMiso, soy sauce. Pediococcus spp.Hamanatto. Pediococcus halophilusSoy sauce. Streptococcus spp.Hama-natto. Under Bacteria are: Actinomucor elegansMeitauza, sufu. Aspergillus glaucusChee-fan. Aspergillus oryzae Hama-natto, ketjap, meju, miso, sak, soy sauce. Monascus purpureusAnka (ang-kak, beni-koji, red rice), hong-ru (laohong). Mucor spp.Chee-fan, ruhi, sufu. Mucor hiemalis Sufu. Rhizopus oligosporusTempe. Under Yeasts are: Candida spp.Soy sauce. Zygosaccharomyces rouxiiMiso, soy sauce. The section on Major commercial fermentation processes includes (p. 752-53) soy sauce (from wheat and soybeans) and miso (from rice and soybeans) Note 2. Koji, the basis of soy sauce, miso, and sak fermentations, is not mentioned in either of the rst two tables. However it is mentioned by name on p. 753. Address: 1. American Inst. of Baking; 2. Prof. Emeritus, Kansas State Univ. Both: Manhattan, Kansas. 689. McCunn, Ruthanne Lum. 2000. The moon pearl. Boston, Massachusetts: Beacon Press. 316 p. 22 cm. Summary: Fiction (historical novel). A matchmaker has found Yun Yun a brutal husband. He hurts her, unsympathetically on their wedding night, and the next two days with him are terrible for her. But she looks forward to the third day when she can return home. Page 100: Tipping her bridal guide generously from her own small store of cash, Yun Yun asked the woman to buy some fried sesame dumplings, steamed sponge cakes, and turnip goh for her parents. Dont you mean stinky beancurd and bitter melons? [symbols of unhappiness] the guide asked. Yun Yun understood the womans meaning. But Yun Yun wanted to believe, had to believe that her parents had not failed entirely, that when she learned how to please her husband and in-laws, theyd soften, become kind. 690. Heijdra, Martin. 2001. Books on the history of tofu in Chinese. Mao-doufu (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Jan. 26.
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Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. Summary: In Princetons Gest Oriental Library are at least four good Chinese-language books on the history of tofu in Chinaall published after 1983. Martin found a word mao-doufu (hairy tofu), which refers to a type of fermented tofu covered with the hairs of a mold mycelium. Address: PhD, Chinese bibliographer, Gest Oriental Library, 317 Palmer Hall, Princeton Univ., Princeton, New Jersey 08544-1005. 691. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 2001. The book of tofu. 2nd ed. Revised. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. 336 p. May. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi Shurtleff. Index. 28 cm. [321 ref] Summary: This edition contains an updated Appendix B Directory of Tofu Makers (p. 313-316, updated to 22 Feb. 2001). The copyright page and inside rear cover have also been updated. The preface has been expanded. Numerous other small changes have been made throughout the book. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. Phone: 925-283-2991. 692. Slater, Niger. 2001. Tofu at the top. Observer (London). June 17. p. F50. Summary: Nigel Slater does not like tofu, but hes willing to give it a try. Tofu, dou fu, bean curd, call the stuff what you will, has never exactly been on my shopping list. Slater quotes from a new book titled Sichuan Cookery, by Fuchsia Dunlop, the BBCs East Asia specialist. Note: Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan province. In most Chengdu markets the standard white bean curd is available in several consistencies; there is also smoked bean curd in thin, rm slabs with a honey-brown surface, glossy chunks of rm bean curd which have been simmered in ve-spice broth, large squares of bean curd skin [probably yuba], sausage-shaped rolls of bean curd with an Edam-like texture, tender ower bean curd and ripe-smelling fermented bean curd in chilli sauce. Slater notes that in Chinese grocery shops in England, one can generally nd three kinds of tofu: Firm tofu, smoked tofu, and silken tofu (slithery, with the texture of a gently quivering custard, and the non-avour of spring water). He gives two recipes from two different books: Fuchsia Dunlops home-style bean curd (with 500g block of bean curd), and Vatcharian Bhumichitrs tahu goreng (with 4 blocks soft bean curd, each about 5cm square). The latter recipe comes from Vatchs Southeast Asian Salads. 693. Thym, Jolene. 2001. A twist on tofu: New, tastier food products put the joy in soy. Oakland Tribune. Sept. 5. Bay Area Living section. p. 1, 6. Summary: This front-page story contains a long interview with Dana Jacobi, author of Amazing Soy, plus a large color photo showing ten different types of soyfoods. The writer
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU has discovered that theres a whole lot more to soy than plain tofu. A sidebar titled Name that food is a glossary including: Edamame, silken tofu, miso, tempeh, fermented bean curd, fried tofu balls, yakidofu, yuba, soynuts, soy sauce, soy milk. Contains four recipes from Jacobis book. Address: Staff writer. 694. Associated Press (AP). 2001. Taiwans puppeteers perform without strings. New York Times. Oct. 7. p. 32. Summary: Taipei, Taiwan, Oct. 6Hsu Wang, age 65, is revered as a puppeteer in Taiwan, where puppetry is a serious business. In the 1950s and 1960s, puppetry was at its height of popularity in Taiwan. Mr. Hsu has always used glove puppets, which have a long tradition in China. Today his audience laughed, oohed and aahed. A downpour failed to disrupt the show, only compelling some to seek shelter and watch from the corridor of food stalls selling squid soup and fermented tofu. 695. Tale of tofu (Continued). 2001. Television broadcast. Canadian TV, Channel 1, The Body, Mind, and Spirit Channel. 1 hour. Dec. 2001. Summary: Continued: Chinese civilization, which is 5,000 years old, has an epic culinary legacy. The numerous tofu recipes and types of special tofu are based on the landscape, environment, and history of this singular nation. Four types of special tofu include iced bean curd, moldy bean curd, blood bean curd, and cured (smoked) bean curd. Emei mountain (Emeishan) in southwest Sichuan province is sacred to Buddhists, with numerous temples throughout the mountain range. A 3-day supply of food is carried up the hill to the monasteries each day. Iced bean curd, found in this remote area, is made when snowy winter conditions make it difcult to transport food up the hill. An old monk tells of a very nutritious wild plant called the magic taro. The taro is mixed with rice our and cooked into a porridgea process similar to making soyamilk from soyabeans. The monks developed the ingenious idea of preserving the taro porridge by ladling it in a layer about 2 inches thick over rm, level snow, then letting it freeze for over a month. Finally they dry the frozen taro in the sun to produce iced bean curd. Each brown piece (which is about 7 inches square and 1.5 inches thick) can be stored for up to 5 years. It looks like a little honeycomb and has a neutral taste. However it has the capacity to absorb the avors of myriad spices, herbs, and sauces, from soya and chili, to sweet and sour. Its versatility gives it a place at every meal. Note: This type of tofu is apparently made without the use of soybeans. The town of Tanko, set against the northern slopes of Huangshan or Yellow Mountain (Anhui Province), is revered for its moldy bean curd, which is said to have been a favorite of emperor Zhu Yuanzhang, founder of the Ming dynasty and the rst Ming emperor [lived 1328-1398;
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ruled 1368-1398]. Born into a peasant family, in 1344 he became a mendicant Buddhist monk. While begging for alms, he was sometimes rewarded with moldy tofu. When he became emperor [in 1368], he declared moldy tofu a royal dish. Today this Huangshan delicacy is fermented by using the excess water from the initial process of making tofu. The acidic nature of the water [whey] helps to raise the temperature and humidity of the container. Each piece of moldy tofu is about 3 by 2 by 1 inches, covered with a white mold mycelium, is incubated in large, stacked wooden trays. Since wet and humid weather are naturally conducive to fermentation, moldy tofu is best made during the summer, when the process takes only a few days; in winter it takes twice as long. At the end of the fermentation process, moldy tofu is rmer that regular tofu. It is, in effect, tofu that has gone bad. Famous dishes in Huangshan are well known for various tofu specialties, such as Braised moldy tofuin which the tofu, with its uffy white mycelium intact, is stir-fried in a wok. But moldy tofu is an acquired taste and, despite its fame, not everyone appreciates its heady, strong avor. In the verdant plateau north of Huangshan (Yellow Mountain) is the age-old town of Xidi. Behind the ancient memorial archway is a tofu specialty that marks an agricultural festival. The palm-sized innovation looks like a Western doughnut, but in place of the hole, the tofu is indented at the center on both sides. At the end of the lunar year, the townspeople prepare for the agricultural festival that marks the end of the agricultural year. For this festival, celebrated on the 8th day of the last lunar month, the community preserves the harvest for the months ahead. Meat would be preserved in salt. In Xidi, the same technique has been adopted to the preservation of tofu. Historically these people have traded and traveled by sea over long distances. So they developed a kind of tofu that can keep for days after being cured over woodsmoke. Many small cylindrical cups made of woven bamboo are each lined with a lter cloth. Fresh curds are ladled in until the cup us full. The ends of the cloth are twisted tightly around the top as the whey begins to drain. A weight is then placed on top to press the curds into very rm tofu. Spices like peppercorn, anise, and cinnamon are added to the soyamilk before it is boiled. Then common salt is used as the coagulant! Across China, the methods of tofu preparation reect the availability of ingredients in that locale. In Xidi, salt is added to the tofu in a cloth lter; it quickly absorbs the liquid in the tofu. This tofu is left outdoors, where it is dried by the sun and wind is a weeks time, leaving behind a yellowish-brown mass. It is now ready to eat. Regular tofu is soft, smooth, and tender; it must be eaten fresh. Cured tofu is hard and old; it can keep for up to 2 years. This method of curing tofu has been handed down for centuries. The people of Xidi (in Zhouxi) are keepers of a rich and ancient heritage. China has sovereignty over many ethnic minorities, each with its own history and culturewhich each has managed to
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU keep alive. The Miao tribe lives across the Guizhou region. They work hard, love to dance, and have a strong tradition of ancestral worship. Every new year the Miao worship their ancestors and gods by offering sacrices, at a very important ceremony. They kill a chicken (which is considered a luxury among the hill tribes) and a pig (which they have been fattening for a year). Blood tofu is made only once a year, at the time of the spring festival. The pig is slaughtered and fresh blood is drawn from it. Most of the meat is preserved with salt. Cooking blood tofu is a long and complicated process. First the tofu is crumbled in a large bowl, then ingredients such as lard, peppercorn, and nally fresh pigs blood are mixed in them kneaded together by hand to form a ball about 5 inches in diameter and pink in color. The technique of smoking food has special signicance in China. In ancient times, the preparation of a royal feast of smoked dishes ranked among the highest tributes paid to royal guests. Using rewood and withered grass, the process of smoking blood tofu, which takes about 20 days, will cause each ball to shrink to about 3 inches in diameter and become dark brown in color, but will preserve it for a long time. After being smoked, it is boiled with cured meat for 40 minutes to add a spicy, hot avor. This Miao delicacy is used to greet and honor their guests. The villagers have waited a year for this feast. Eaten in every corner of China, tofu is inexpensive, nutritious, and readily available... Tofu cannot claim the celestial role of manna from heaven. If anything, it is as down to earth and mediocre as the people who have made tofu throughout the millennia. Yet the unassuming masses cannot deny that bean curd has given them sustenance through hardship. Indeed, it has brought with it a certain taste of pleasure and satisfaction in their lives. 696. Tale of tofu. 2001. Television broadcast. Canadian TV, Channel 1, The Body, Mind, and Spirit Channel. 1 hour. Dec. 2001. Summary: This is a unique color documentary about tofu in China, narrated by John Culkin (with a few English subtitles when Chinese are speaking), written by Zoe Siu Moi Yee and Lo Wing Yi, directed and executive produced by Tely Fung Wing Chuen, with photography by Ko Chiu Lem. Copyright 2000, it was broadcast in Canada in Dec. 2001. The cinematography is very well done, interesting, and often beautiful. Although the narrative contains many errors and much strange and condescending language, it also contains some new information, especially about unusual types of ethnic or regional tofu varieties. However tofu is presented as an ancient, exotic, foreign food, with no suggestion that it might become part of Western diets. The story begins: In the epic struggle for survival, one food has emerged the champion of the poor during the centuries of hardship. Inexpensive and yet nutritional, it is the humble bean curdtofu. It is rich in amino acids
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and anticarcinogens. At once a much-needed protein supplement and a veritable health food for the poor, bean curd is an oddity in its own right. And if legend has it right, then maybe tofu is a manna from heaven for the Chinese. The mythology of tofu begins with the diminutive and unimpressive soya bean. In Guizhou province (in southwest China), despite the harsh weather and rough terrain, soybeans grow well. In the village of Shenlin soyabean constitutes the staple food of the people. All the families in Shenlin know how to make tofu but only 4 make and sell it (for 1 yuan/catty) to earn a living. One old woman has devoted her life to the art of tofu-making, not so much for the income as for the pleasure of keeping up an old tradition. As pasta is to the Italians, so where you nd Chinese you will nd tofu. Today most of the tofu in China is made from soybeans imported from the USA and South America. The Chinese greatly enjoy cooking; more than 30 products are derived from tofu. For example, crispy bean curd is used in Chinese hot pots. Pressed tofu is eaten during Chinese New Year in Nanjing. Two sisters of the Miao minority hill tribe make tofu starting at 8:00 each evening. The rst step is to make soyamilk, which can provide a valuable nutrition supplement to children in poverty-stricken areas. Soymilk must rst be boiled thoroughly (usually in a large wokshaped container) before it is sold at the market. In rural communities, where central heating is a rare luxury, many Chinese start the day by warming up with hot soymilk and Chinese-style fried doughnuts. The Miao sisters sell soymilk in plastic bags to make it easier to handle. They make 600 packs each night; it is ready for distribution to retailers at dawn. When hot soymilk cools, a thin layer forms on its surface. This looks like a pale wrinkled pancake and is called bean curd skin [yuba]. It is one of the most expensive soya products and only a few good-quality (transparent) pieces can be obtained per batch of soymilk. The rest is considered a lower grade product due to color deterioration which causes the lower layers to gradually turn opaque. Though it is an extravagance, those who love its avor and texture nd it well worth the expense. Modern technology now makes it possible to mass-produce bean curd skin. In the half-forgotten village of Kaili, in Guizhou province, the art of making pressed bean curd still thrives. Plaster of Paris catalyzes the ingredients and coagulates the soyamilk. Surprisingly, the process has no adverse sideeffects. Various local avoring agents are added, resulting in a line of dried of products. Regular avors include marinated bean curd and pungent bean curd. Exotic varieties include cowhide bean curd and tea-avored bean curd. These are sold as snacks in local markets. Curing the tofu with woodsmoke enables it to be preserved for 7 more days. Since the smoking process is time
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU consuming, it is fast becoming obsolete, and it costs an extra 4 cents per catty of tofu. Making pressed bean curd requires back-breaking labor. Each day these girls must stand in the sweltering heat of the smokehouse for 13 hours in order to make 500 catties of pressed bean curd. No effort is spared in making these edible little bricks of bean curd. We can try to preserve tofu or we can let it rot to make fermented bean curd. The tofu is left to mold for several days is a process not unlike that of making cheese. The workers spread a kind of mold onto the surface of the bean curd, which is then stored at a temperature of 25-30C for 3 days. A layer of thin white hair begins to sprout on top of the bean curd. This tofu is then stored in large jars for 3 months while fermentation takes place, breaking the protein in the tofu down into amino acids. Sometimes the bean curd is wrapped in mustard leaves and stored for 12 months to create a special product. In China it is believed it was not human beings, but apes, that rst discovered the joys of fermented foodaccording to legends in ancient literature. Chinese greatly enjoy wine, as well as bean curd. It adds a certain avor to otherwise harsh rural lifestyles. Here, to make poverty bearable, the saying goes, All you need is one piece of fermented tofu for one meal and a bottle of fermented tofu to last the year. In its heyday, a little village in Anhui province (eastern China) was home to about 200 families solely engaged in making tofu. It is famed for producing the best and most sought-after in China. Concerning the origin of tofu, most Chinese generally subscribe to the legend of a certain feudal lord, Liu-An of Huai-Nan. Two thousand years ago, during the Han dynasty, Liu-An searched far and wide for the fountain of youth. He believed he could discover the secret of immortality and turn it into a magic pill. When his valiant efforts failed, he threw his half-nished potion into a river in disgust. Natural plaster in the river chemically reacted with the mythical ingredients. And so it was that the rst block of bean curd was bestowed upon humanity. The legendary location of his famous experiment is where the tofu village stands today. The little stream of historic fame still runs through the village. In its water, the people wash their clothes, clean their shoes, and prepare the beans that will be made into tofu. One catty of soybeans will yield as much as 3-5 catties of tofu. The people of this village are content that theirs is the original and authentic recipe for tofu. They have inherited a gift from history. The myth of Liu-An has secured this obscure little village its place in Chinese history. Many Chinese use bicycles or walk with a shoulder pole to carry their tofu to the nearest market. Some leave home as early as 5:00 in the morning and walk for 2 hours. Today, mass-produced tofu in China is driving village tofu makers out of business. Freshness is tofus strength, but also its weakness. Tofu has a short shelf life and cannot be taken on longer journeys. Even the highly pungent preserved bean curd needs to be
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eaten fresh. This bean curd, with its forbidding coloring and pungent aroma, can only be found in Nanjing. This brown, smoked bean curd is a dry variety with a special, and no less enticing smell. To make pungent black tofu, the beans are ground in a mechanical grinder, the soya mixture is rst placed in a U-shaped rattan mold, immersed in a large pot, then marinated in a special sauce (made from a centuries-old recipe including anise, cinnamon, peppercorn, and black sesame seeds, in wide-mouth earthenware vats, 3 feet in diameter) to produce its unique color and avor. This tofu is part of the famous Qinghai cuisine of Nanjing, named after the Qinghai River. To preserve its unique avor, it must be steamed before it is rinsed. Acionados of pungent black tofu agree with most visitors that its bold smell evokes the odor of football [soccer] shirts after a tough game. Continued. 697. Han, B.Z.; Beumer, R.R.; Rombouts, F.M.; Nout, M.J.R. 2001. Microbiological safety and quality of commercial sufu: A Chinese fermented soybean food. Food Control 12:541-47. * Address: 4. Lab. of Food Microbiology, Wageningen University, 6700, EV Wageningen, The Netherlands. 698. Dunlop, Fuchsia. 2001. Sichuan cookery. London: Michael Joseph. lxxv + 276 p. Color illust. [24] p. of plates. 22 cm. * Summary: Chengdu is the capital of Sichuan province. In most Chengdu markets the standard white bean curd is available in several consistencies; there is also smoked bean curd in thin, rm slabs with a honey-brown surface, glossy chunks of rm bean curd which have been simmered in ve-spice broth, large squares of bean curd skin [probably yuba], sausage-shaped rolls of bean curd with an Edam-like texture, tender ower bean curd and ripe-smelling fermented bean curd in chilli sauce. 699. Hsiung, Deh-Ta. 2001. The Chinese kitchen. New York, NY: St. Martins Press. 240 p. Foreword by Ken Hom. Illust. (color). 29 cm. [30 ref] Summary: This book focuses on ingredients and essential kitchen tools used in Chinese cooking. For each it gives all or most of the following: Name romanized in Mandarin Chinese and Chinese characters. A glossy color photo of the item. A basic description. Appearance and taste. Method of manufacture. Buying and storing. Culinary uses. 1-2 recipes. The many color photos are very useful, but the index is hard to use Soy related: Black bean sauce recipe (p. 33). Soy (soy sauce; jiang you, p. 64-67; Recipes are Soy chicken and Soy duck. Mushroom soy sauce is a Cantonese specialty. Chili soy sauce is sold in small bottles). Seasonings section: Oyster sauce (haoyou, p. 79. Soy sauce is a typical ingredient).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Salted black beans (douchi, p. 88-89. They are very popular all over China, especially in rural households in the South. They are also the oldest recorded soy food in Chinese history, and the ancestor of soy sauce. Indeed the water in which salted black beans has been soaked is often used as a substitute for soy sauce by low-income people, to save money. To make douchi: Boil black soybeans until soft, then soak in water overnight. Steam them for 3 hours the next morning. Inoculate them with Aspergillus oryzae mold and ferment for 15-21 days. Then cover beans with a brine solution and alcohol, and allow to mature for at least six months. Then spread them out to dry in the sun. Steam them again until soft and spread in the sun to dry. Repeat the last step one more time. The product is, at last, ready to use). Black bean sauce (chizhiang, p. 90-91. I have a strong suspicion that commercial black bean sauce {liquidized, salted black beans seasoned with soy sauce, salt, sugar and spice} is a Hong Kong invention concocted mainly for the convenience of Westerners. I cannot remember ever seeing it in China, nor can I nd any mention of its existence in any Chinese publication, past or present. Commercial black bean sauce is less aromatic that the fresh paste one makes oneself... Some varieties also include added orange peel, ginger, chilies or garlic. A number of different brands are available. The author uses this only for convenience. One of the most popular variations is black bean and garlic sauce. Recipes include: Steamed spareribs with black bean sauce). Yellow bean sauce (huang jiang, p. 92-93. Sometimes labeled brown bean sauce or ground bean sauce {mochi jiang}, this is the soybean paste made from crushed or ground, salted and fermented yellow soybeans, which are sweeter and less salty than black beans. Spices and other seasonings can be added to this basic bean sauce giving many varieties. In different regions of China, seasonings and spices are added in different proportions. Hoi Sin sauce {p. 94} is one example. Guilin chili sauce {p. 95} and Peking Duck sauce {p. 93} are others. To make: Soak soybeans for 16 hours. Then steam until soft. Ferment beans for about 5 days, stirring and turning every other day. Blend into beans salt, sweet glutinous rice wine, and dark brown sugar. Fill a pottery jar with themnot too tightly, nor too loosely. Seal opening tightly then let jar stand for 2 days. Turn jar upside down in a cool, dry place and ferment beans for 3 more months. The beans are now ready to be used as is, or to be ground and blended with additional seasonings). Hoi Sin Sauce (haixian jiang in Mandarin or hoisin jaing in Cantonese, p. 95. This very popular Cantonese specialty, also known as barbecue sauce, has become almost as popular as soy sauce in most households. To make: Season yellow soybeans with sugar, vinegar, salt, chili, garlic, sesame oil, and red coloring; thicken with our and water. The author believes that Hoi Sin sauce should not be used with Peking Duck). Guilin Chili sauce (Guilin lajiao jiang, p. 95. Guilin
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is the capital of Guangxi, located just north of Guangdong {Canton}. To make: Mix fermented and salted beans with fresh red chilies. Then stir in the lesser ingredients: garlic, salt, sugar, and starch. The authors favorite authentic brand, Mount Elephant, is sold in a rustic brown earthenware pot. Recipe: Chicken cubes with chili bean sauce). Chu Hou bean paste (chuhou jiang, p. 96. To make: Use yellow soybeans, wheat our, sugar, lard or vegetable oil, and sesame. Recipe: Chu Hou chicken). Sweet bean paste (dousha, p. 97. Although there are red and black sweet bean pastes, they are both made from red beans [azuki beans]. I discovered this unexpected fact only very recently, while researching this book. To make basic red bean paste: Gently boil red [azuki] beans in water until soft. Grind to a pulp, then clean and strain them to get rid of the hull / skin; lter and press. To this basic unsweetened paste, mix in crushed rock sugar. For sweet black bean paste, add additional sugar with lard or vegetable oil, then heat while stirring until the color turns black. Essence of fragrant owers, such as roses or sweet-scented osmanthus {Osmanthus fragrans; cassia} is usually blended with the black paste, which is shiny black. Sweet bean paste is widely used as a lling for steamed buns {baozi}, cakes and other desserts. In China, sweet black bean paste is far more popular than the red variety, and as a child, I always preferred the sweeter taste of the former. Recipe {served in most non-Cantonese restaurants}: Red bean paste pancakes). Chili bean paste (toban jiang, p. 98. This is distinguished from other thick seasonings in that is made from broad beans rather than soybeans. The most delicious product comes from Pixian County, in the Chengdu Plains near Chengduthe capital of Sichuan province. Recipe: Home-style braised bean curd).
Fermented bean curd (doufu nai, literally bean-curd milk, p. 102-03. It has often been compared with a strong cheese and is denitely an acquired taste: you either love it {as does almost everyone in China} or hate it {as does almost everyone else}. But everyone loves it when it is disguised as a seasoning. Also called jiang doufu. A legend of its origin states that two immortals told a street bean-curd seller how to make it, starting with molded bean curd. Since the 15th century Fengdu fermented bean curd has held an excellent reputation. Today the two leading brands are The Immortals and The Two Immortals. To make it: (1) Make bean curd [tofu]. (2) Lay cubes of bean curd on beds of rice straw for about 5 days in spring or 7 days in winter. (3) Dry the mouldy [moldy] bean curd in the sun, then marinate with salt, sorghum spirit and spices. Mature in brine in sealed
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU earthenware urns for at least 6 months. The two basic types are red and white. The red type, which has the milder avor of the two, has ground red rice added to it instead of spice. In China, it is most widely consumed for breakfast with rice congee. Recipes: Pork chops with red fermented bean curd. Sichuan-style fried green beans). Vegetables section: Soybean sprouts (Huang douya, Glycine hispida, p. 150-51. Soybean sprouts are much more widely used in China than mung bean sprouts. For how to grow at home, see p. 148. Soybean sprouts are almost twice as large as mung bean sprouts both in length and diameter. Soybean sprouts are the main ingredient in Vegetarian stock {p. 71}. Neither soybeans nor their should ever be eaten raw. Recipes: Soybean sprouts salad {with parboiled soybeans}. Assorted vegetable soup). Under Lotus root (p. 144) is a recipe for Braised pork with lotus root that calls for dried bean curd sticks. Under Ginkgo nut (p. 167) is a recipe for Vegetarian casserole (A slightly simplied version of Buddhas Delight, p. 193) that calls for 3 8 inch long pieces (1 oz.) dried bean curd sticks, soaked. Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (June 2011) that uses the term dried bean curd skin sticks to refer to dried yuba sticks. The recipe intends to call for Three 8-inch long dried bean curd sticks. Later, we are instructed to Cut the bean curd sticks into short sections,... Preserved and processed foods section: Pickles (Jiang cai, p. 185, are vegetables pickled in soy sauce-based hydrolysate). Bean curd (tofu, doufu, p. 196-99. Bean curd was invented in China and is regarded as the countrys national dish... Proof exists that bean curd, made from soybeans, was sold in markets during the Tang dynasty {618-907}. Until the 17th century, bean curd was eaten exclusively by the poor until Kung Xi {1662-1722}, a Qing dynasty emperor, discovered it while visiting Suzhou in Jiangsu province when he ventured out incognito to mingle with the people in the streets. When he returned to Peking, the Emperor ordered the chefs of the Palace kitchen to produce bean curd dishes. Overnight, humble bean curd became noblemans fare and is now popular worldwide. It is off-white in color. Under Medicinal uses: The nutritional benets of bean curd cannot be exaggerated. Free of cholesterol, it is ideal for combatting heart disease and high blood pressure. It is also extremely easy to digest, so it is very good for infants, the elderly and invalids. Recipe: Sichuan spicy bean curd {Ma po doufu}. Fish and bean curd casserole. Stir-fried shrimp with bean curd. Stuffed bean curd {Popular in Canton and with the Hakka people}). Deep-fried bean curd (youzha doufu, p. 200. Sold in the form of small cubes, large squares, or triangles. Used in soups, stews, casseroles, braised dishes or stuffed triangles). Pressed bean curd (doufu-gan, p. 201. After being pressed it is typically seasoned with soy sauce and a little
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ve-spice, or star anise, or cinnamon). Dried bean curd skins (fuzhu, fupi, p. 202-03. One kind is a thin at sheet; the other is rolled into a stick. The sticks require much more soaking before useseveral hours or overnight. Recipes: Bean curd skin and asparagus soup. Vegetarian bean curd skin roll). Tofu (in recipes only): p. 75, 139, 189. Non-soy: Gluten (p. 34). Cooking oils (p. 58; soy oil is not mentioned). Sesame seed oil (p. 60). Sesame paste (p. 61). Peanut (p. 164-65). Note 2. This book was rst published in Great Britain in 1999 by Kyle Cathie Limited. This is the rst U.S. edition. Address: Author and chef, London. 700. Hsiung, Deh-Ta; Simonds, Nina; Lowe, Jason. 2001. Food of China. Sydney, NSW, Australia: Murdoch Books. 296 p. Illust. (color). Index. 31 cm. * Summary: An excellent book with many ne color photos. One section titled Soy (p. 192-95) discusses: Introduction. Soy sauce. Tofu. Tofu products: Fermented tofu, mouldy tofu, tofu skin [yuba], etc. Northern-style tofu. Fermented tofu is mentioned on pages 9, 164 (1 tablespoon red fermented tofu), 167, 193, Contains a glossary of Chinese food and cooking (p. 288-89) which includes an entry for fermented tofu, which is sometimes called preserved tofu or tofu cheese and is used as a condiment or avoring. Photos show: Kung Wo Bean Curd factory in Hong Kong. A soy sauce factory and its canned Premium Soy Sauce. 701. Jaivin, Linda. 2001. The monkey and the dragon: a true story about friendship, music, politics and life on the edge. Melbourne, VIC, Australia: Text Publishing Co. 438 p. * Summary: Page 398: Some things about Taipei were exactly the same as when Id lived there twenty years earlier: the smells wafting from the ubiquitous snack carts offering egg-wrapped pancakes with chilli sauce, the aptly named stinky beancurd and betelnut wrapped in vine leaves. Open-fronted restaurants served up steaming bowls of soy milk, sweet or savoury, as well as bubbling soups of puffed beancurd and stewed meats. 702. Singleton, Paul; Sainsbury, Diana. 2001. Dictionary of microbiology and molecular biology. 3rd ed. Chichester, New York, Weinheim, Brisbane, Singapore & Toronto: John Wiley & Sons, Ltd. xi + 895 p. Illust. 25 cm. Summary: Contains entries for: fermentation, fermented foods, fermenter (fermentor), fungi, miso, natto, ogi, oncom, shoyu (see Soy sauce), soy paste (see Miso), soy sauce (shoyu), sufu, tempeh, tofu (an intermediate in Sufu production). Address: London. 703. Asimov, Eric. 2002. $25 and under: A Sichuan place
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU that puts its name on the line. New York Times. May 29. p. F7. Summary: This is a review of the Chinese restaurant Spicy and Tasty, located at 133-43 Roosevelt Ave., Flushing, Queens. Among the Best dishes are Lamb with bean sauce, and Ma-po bean curd. In Sichuan cookery, la refers to the spiciness imparted by chili peppers or oil, whereas ma refers to a owery, tingly sensation imparted by Sichuan peppercorns. The writer loved the hot bean paste sauce that encased a whole sh. But the spiciness of ma-po bean curd, made with ground pork, gave shape to this otherwise bland dish. But nothing poses a more difcult obstacle than what is disguised on the menu as ma-la fried tofu. This benign name conceals a fermented bean curd dish that, in Taiwan, where it is prized, is known more accurately as foul-smelling tofu [probably chou toufu]. 704. Chang, Irving Beilin. 2002. Fuyu: Chinas fermented soy bean cheese. Flavor & Fortune 9(2):9-10. Summer. [5 ref] Summary: The writer grew up in China: His mother was American born and his father (of Chinese ancestry) was a graduate of Yale Univ. [New Haven, Connecticut]. Describes how his family cook made fuyu [fermented tofu] from fresh tofu at home in China. His wife, Wonona, has selected some recipes using this typical Chinese fermented product: Fried bean curd with chili (with 2 squares fuyu, also known as fermented soy bean cubes, mashed and 1 square rm bean cube, cut into 1-inch pieces). Stewed bean curd with dried sh (with 1 pound silken bean curd, cut into ten pieces, square fermented red fuyu, mashed, square fermented white fuyu with chili, and 1 tablespoon fuyu liquid). Chicken with fuyu avor. Address: Kings Park, New York 11754. 705. Observer (London).2002. Om: Top ten tips to beat high cholesterol. Oct. 13. p. G64. Summary: Tip #3 is Eat soya products. Studies suggest that soya helps to reduce low density lipoproteins (LDL) cholesterol. Try portions of tofu, tempeh (fermented tofu [sic]), and soya milk. Note: Tempeh and fermented tofu are two completely different foods made from soybeans. 706. Wu, Olivia. 2002. The hidden world of tofu: Local producers offer a boggling arrayfrom delicate and custardlike to chewy and crisp. San Francisco Chronicle. Oct. 30. p. E1, E4. Food & Wine section. Summary: About Chinese tofu, with recipes. Color photos show: 1. Yuba. 2. Soymilk. 3. Moist yuba. 4. Vegetarian duck. 5. Pressed tofu. 6. Tofu threads. 7. Fermented tofu. 8. Tofu puffs. 9. Dried yuba sticks. 10. Deep-fried tofu triangles. 11. Fried tofu knots (bayie knots). 12. Sheets of
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fresh yuba hanging above pans of steaming soymilk at China Tofu factory in Hayward. 12. Fresh, hot soymilk pouring from a spigot into a barrel, where it will be made into tofu. 13. At China Tofu, Hayward, one worker unwraps cloths from a tray of freshly-pressed tofu which another pours steaming curds into a nearby cloth-lined tray. 14. Chef Nei Chia Ji, of restaurant Jai Yun (933 Pacic Ave. at Mason, San Francisco) offers 6-7 delicious tofu dishes. A tofu glossary, gives for each of 16 entries: Chinese characters, pinyin transliteration, English term, how sold and used. Soymilk (doufu, doujiang), tofu owers (doufu hua, douhua, doufu nao), silken tofu (nun doufu), soft tofu (ruan doufu), rm tofu (ying doufu), pressed tofu (doufu gan), ve-spice pressed tofu (wuxiang doufu gan), pressed tofu sheets (baiye, qianzhang), pressed tofu loops (baiye jie), pressed tofu noodles (gansi, doufusi), yuba (doufu pi, fuye), fermented tofu (furu, doufuru), vegetarian chicken, cuck (suji, suyia), stinky tofu (cho doufu), tofu puffs {deep-fried} (you doufu), deep-fried tofu (zha doufu). Address: Staff writer. 707. Battaglia, Evelyn. 2002. Cooking with soy products. Martha Stewart Living. Oct. p. 278, 280, 282, 284. Summary: Introduces fresh soybeans (edamame), tofu, soy milk, miso, soy sauce. Includes recipes for: Miso soup with tofu, spinach, and carrots. Sesame marinated tofu with vegetables. Chai tea with soy milk. Edamame succotash. 708. Slater, Nigel. 2002. Recipes: Nigel Slaters cookbook of the month. Thai Food by David Thompson. Observer (London). Nov. 10. p. 147. Summary: At last we have the denitive book on Thai cooking. David Thompson, who spent years in researching and writing this book, is the Australian chef at Nahm in Londons Halkin Hotel; before that he was owner of the Darley Street Thai in Sydney. Recipes include: Stir-fried Siamese watercress with yellow beans, garlic and chillies (Pak bung fai dtaeng; with 2 tbsp yellow bean sauce, rinsed and 2 tbsp light soy sauce). This simple dish can be enhanced with... roast duck and fermented bean curd. 709. Lee, Cherl-Ho; Lee, Sang Sun. 2002. Cereal fermentation by fungi. In: George G. Khachatourians and Dilip K. Arora, eds. 2002. Applied Mycology and Biotechnology. Vol. 2. Agriculture and Food Production. Amsterdam, New York: Elsevier. 428 p. See p. 151-70. [50 ref] Summary: Contents: Summary. Introduction. Fermentation starters: History of solid state fermentation starters in northeast Asia, cereal alcoholic fermentation starters, soybean fermentation starters. Fungal fermented foods: Cereal alcoholic products (rice wine, rice beer, alcoholic rice paste, alcoholic rice seasoning), fermented soybean products
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU (Korean kanjang and doenjang, Japanese shoyu and miso, tempe, Chinese sufu), other fermented products (Chinese red rice {Anka}, enzyme foods). Hygienic aspects of fungal fermented foods: Mycotoxins in fermentation raw materials, mycotoxin formed during fermentation. Conclusion. Page 162: ... soybean sauce, kanjang, and soybean paste, doenjang, have been used in Korea for more than 2000 years and formed the characteristic avor of Korean cuisine. The term Shi [soy nuggets], the Chinese letter indicating meju, rst appears in Jijiupian written in the Han period (206 B.C. to 208 A.D.) of China. Bowuzhi of Jin (265-420 A.D.) of China describes that Shi [soy nuggets] originated in a foreign country, and the letter is a dialect. Xintangshu of the Tang period (618-807 A.D.) in China names Shi as a special product of Balhai or Bohai (688-826 A.D.), a nation founded by the refugees from defeated Kokuryo (37 B.C. to 668 A.D.). It is generally recognized that Koreans were the rst to experiment with soybean fermentation, sparking the beginning of the soy sauce culture of the Orient (Lee 2001). Their traditional fermentation technology was so advanced that they taught their techniques to neighboring countries. Page 162-63: Meju [soybean koji], the fermentation starter for Korean soysauce, kanjang, is made from soybean... The ripening of kanjang mash in the brine is ended in 1-2 months. Figures: (12) A combination diagram and owsheet showing the process of making Korean kanjang and doenjang. Address: 1. Graduate School of Biotechnology, CAFST, Korea Univ., Seoul, 136-701, Korea; 2. Dep. of Biology, Korea National Univ. of Education, Chungbuk, 363791. 710. Ling, Kong Foong. 2002. Food of Asia: authentic recipes from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand and Vietnam. Singapore: Periplus. 192 p. Illust. (color photos). Index. 31 cm. Summary: This oversized paperback book, loaded with glossy color photos, is an expanded version of the original 1998 edition. The introduction and essays are by Kong Foong Ling. The index, which is poor, makes the book hard to use if you are looking for particular foods found throughout Asia such as soybeans, soy sauce, miso, salted / fermented black beans, yuba [bean curd skin], etc. Contents: The avors of Asia. Ingredients. The Asian kitchen. Burma. China. India. Indonesia. Japan. Korea. Malaysia & Singapore. The Philippines. Sri Lanka. Thailand. Vietnam. Appendix. The Ingredients section (p. 10-17) includes: Bean curd (incl. cotton or momen tofu, silken bean curd, deepfried bean curd or aburage, grilled bean curd or yakidofu, fermented bean curd or nam yee). Bean curd skin [yuba]. Black beans, salted (and fermented). Hoisin sauce (A sweet sauce made of soy beans, with spicy and garlicky
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overtones). Miso (incl. red miso and white miso). Salted soy beans (incl. yellow bean sauce). Soy sauce (incl. light soy sauce, black soy sauce, red soy sauce, Kikkoman, tamari, thick sweet soy sauce (kecap manisIndonesian)). Tempeh. Also: Red beans (dried azuki). Seaweed (incl. dried kelp, golden kelp, mozuku, salted dried kelp, laver or nori, wakame). Sesame (black and white seeds, tahina {tahini}). Sesame oil. Sesame rice crackers. Korea (p. 109+). Page 110: There are also many fermented pastes and sauces for dipping, called chang. Every restaurant and home has its own formula for making chang. Based on a fermented mash of soy beans, the three most common varieties are kan chang (dark and liquid), daen chang (thick and pungent), and gochu chang (ery and hot). Soybean is mentioned on pages 8, 11, 68, 89. Beancurd or bean curd is mentioned on pages 8, 10, 11, 26, 32, 33, 35, 36, 40-42, 68, 70-71, 74, 89, 90, 92, 93, 94, 96, 100, 102, 104, 107, 111, 112, 113, 119, 120, 127, 133, 158, 172, 175, 185, 189, 190, 191, 192. Bean curd skin [yuba] is mentioned on pages 11, 35, 36. Bean paste and bean paste sauces, p. 8, 32. Fragrant soy sauce is mentioned on page 128. Also: Red bean paste, p. 46 (canned, azuki). 711. Thompson, David. 2002. Thai food (Aharn Thai). Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. xiii + 673 p. Illust. Index. 25 cm. [218 ref] Summary: This is a superb, massive, beautiful and unique booka wholistic study of food in Thai culture overowing with lovely and expressive color photos by Earl Carter. Contents: Acknowledgements. Introduction, by David Thompson, and authors notes. Part one: Thailand and food. 1. A history. 2. Culture and society. 3. Regions of Thailand. 4. Rice. Part two: Fundamentals of Thai cooking. 5. The Thai kitchen. 6. Ingredients and basic preparations. 7. Relishes. 8. Soups. 9. Curries. 10. Salads. 11. Side dishes and accompaniments. 12. Menus. Part three: Food outside the meal. 13. Snacks. 14. Desserts. Select bibliography (Books in English: Primary sources 23. Secondary sources 65. Cookbooks 18. Total English: 106. Thai sources: Cookbooks 46. Memorial books: 66. Total Thai: 112. Grand total: 218). Introduction: The author has written this book, in part, to describe this ancient cuisine which reached an apex in the last decades of the 19th century, and before it is eroded, altered and modernised. The transliteration is phonetic; it is not the ofcial system devised by King Rama VI. The section titled The importance of Buddhism (p. 3840) in Thai cookery and culture states: It is the obligation of every Thai male to become a monk for at least three months, usually around the age of 20,... This a rite of passage from childhood to adulthood, and acquaints each young man with the basics of Buddhism and meditation. Strict Buddhists
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU abstain from eating meat and there is a strong tradition of vegetarianism in Thailand. Meat does not have a primary role in the Thai diet and most Thai believe that forgoing meat earns merit for themselves or another. Some give up meat once a week, or for a prolonged period, or even for an entire year. Chapter 6, Ingredients and basic preparations, discusses the following: Bean curd (dtor huu): There are several types, from rm to soft. The author prefers the softest kind, sometimes called silken bean curd. Fermented bean curd (dtor huu yii): Of Chinese origin and fermented with a red mold, it is sold in small jars and comes in two types: very red, or creamy white veined with pink. The author prefers the latter, which is more versatile and subtle. Fermented soy bean (tua nao): This ancient fermented product was once used extensively in Thai cookery. But it as largely been replaced by shrimp paste, so it is not so common now. Before tua nao is used in a recipe, it is grilled or toasted, then ground. Soy sauce (nahm siu uu): A lighter-style soy sauce is generally preferred by Thai cooks. Sweet Indonesian soy sauce (kecap manis) is used only occasionally. Yellow bean sauce (dtow jiaw): This is a sauce based on yellow soy beans, which are salted and then fermented with rice mould... [it] tastes delicious, very much like Japanese miso. Its use usually indicates a dish of Chinese inuence. There are two basic types: the rst, and more traditional is creamy white; the more common one is honey brown. Peanuts and wing beans [winged beans] are also discussed in chapter 6. Soy-related recipes: Murray perch and mushroom soup with yellow beans (dtom het dtow jiaw; p. 249). Light soy sauce (p. 341). Fermented bean curd simmered in coconut cream (lon dtor huu yii; p. 430-31). Deep-fried bean curd with crab, pork and spring onions. (tor huu yord sai tort; p. 440-42). Prawns and yellow beans simmered in coconut cream (lon dtao jiaw; p. 444-46). Pickled ginger with yellow beans (king dong dtow jiaw; p. 457). Bean curd stir-fried with bean sprouts (tor huu pat tua nork; p. 462). Bean curd and bean sprout soup (tgeng jeut or huu orn; p. 469-70). Stir-fried Siamese watercress with yellow beans, garlic and chillies (pak bung fai dtaeng; p. 532-33). Yellow bean and ginger sauce (nam jim dtow jiaw; p. 545). Spicy yellow bean sauce (nam jim dtow jiaw; p. 558). Address: Chef, restaurateur, cookery writer, and preserver of traditional Thai culture, Sydney, Australia. 712. Hill, Amelia. 2003. The day the earth died. Observer (London). March 2. p. 213. Summary: On 7 Aug. 1942 Japanese planes dropped anthrax on a town in China. Yalin Zhou recalls that it was beautiful as it oated down, like willow pollen or owers,
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owing with the wind. But at midnight on that same day, in the village of Tangjia in Zhejiang, CaiQiu Tang woke up screaming. Her pillow was wet with blood... The skin on my face had rotted and turned black, and my esh was all pulpy like fermented tofu. All the teeth on one side of my face had fallen out... This is the story of Japans secret Unit 731 of the Japanese Kwantung Army in Manchuria, organized in 1936, that conducted experiments on people living in China and Manchuria in order to try to perfect germ warfare (biological warfare). It is one of the largest and yet least known of the crimes against mankind. 713. Kuba, Megumi; Tanaka, K.; Tawata, S.; Takeda, Y.; Yasuda, M. 2003. Angiotensin I-converting enzyme inhibitory peptides isolated from tofuyo fermented soybean food. Bioscience, Biotechnology, and Biochemistry 67(6):1278-83. June. [27 ref. Eng] Summary: Angiotensin I-converting enzyme (ACE) inhibitory activity was observed in a tofuyo (fermented soybean food) extract. Address: 1-3, 5. Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 902-0213, Japan. 714. Apple, R.W., Jr. 2003. A Chinese jewel in Melbourne, striving toward perfection. New York Times. Dec. 24. p. F1. Summary: The Flower Drum, the most famous restaurant in Melbourne, and perhaps in all of Australia, opened in 1975, founded by Gilbert Lauwho was born and raised near Canton. The menu is fundamentally Cantonese, but open to other inuences, including many of Australias unique and delicious ingredients. One dish is a lamb clay pot, starring a cheap cut of Australias favorite meat, called the ap, made tender by long cooking in moist heat, with fermented bean curd that tasted vaguely like cheese, and spinach plunged into the broth for just a moment. Delicious. So delicious that customers from Hong Kong come in and order 20 pounds to go. 715. Wang, L.J.; Saito, M.; Tatsumi, E.; Li, L.T. 2003. Antioxidative and angiotensin I-converting enzyme inhibitory activity of sufu (fermented tofu) extracts from various regions of China. JARQ (Japan Agricultural Research Quarterly) 37:129-32. [Eng]* 716. Farnworth, Edward R. 2003. Handbook of fermented functional foods. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press. 390 p. See p. 227, 295. Index. Summary: An overview, with two chapters on fermented soyfoods (natto and miso) cited separately. Chapter 1, titled History of fermented foods (p. 1-25) includes brief and vague histories of Soy foods including (p. 18-19) soy
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU sauce, miso, tempeh, natto, and sufu [fermented tofu]. Chapter 4, titled Ker: A fermented milk product (p. 77+) states (p. 85-86) that ker can be made by growing ker grains in soybean milk (Abraham and de Antini 1999, p. 32733). Chapter 9 is NattoA food made by fermented cooked soybeans with Bacillus subtilis (natto), (p. 227-245). Chapter 11 is Miso: Production, properties, and benets to health (p. 277-87). Chapter 12 is Korean fermented foods: Kimchi and doenjang (p. 287-305). Soyfoods mentioned on page 289 include ganjang (soy sauce), doenjang (fermented soybean paste), chongkukjang (quick fermented soybean paste), and gochujang (hot chili pepper soybean paste); each of these is a major condiment in Korean cuisine. Address: PhD, Senior Research Scientist, Food Research and Development Centre, Agriculture and AgriFood Canada, St. Hyacinthe, Quebec, Canada. 717. Vergne, Elisa. 2003. Chinese pavilion: Casual Chinese cooking at home. San Francisco, California: Silverback Books. 119 p. Illust. (color photos by Yves Bagros). Index. 23 cm. * Summary: A recipe for Spinach and tofu calls for 2 tablespoons spicy fermented tofu (p. 106). 718. Yasuda, Masaaki. 2004. Tofuyo no jukusei to beni koji kin no purotease [The ripening of tofuyo and proteases from genus Monascus]. In: Inouye, K., ed. 2004. Fuudo Puroteomikus: Shokuhin Koso no Oy Riyo Gijyutsu [Food Enzyme Chemistry]. Tokyo, Japan: CMC Shuppan [CMC Publisher]. March. See p. 123-33. [31 ref. Jap]* Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-0213, Japan. 719. Yasuda, Masaaki. 2004. Tofuyo no jukusei to beni koji kin no purotease [The ripening of tofuyo and proteases from genus Monascus]. In: Inouye, K., ed. 2004. Fuudo Puroteomikus: Shokuhin Koso no Oy Riyo Gijyutsu [Food Enzyme Chemistry]. Tokyo, Japan: CMC Shuppan [CMC Publisher]. March. See p. 123-33. [31 ref. Jap]* Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-0213, Japan. 720. Liu, KeShun. 2004. Edible soybean products in the current market. In: KeShun Liu, ed. 2004. Soybeans as Functional Foods and Ingredients. Champaign, Illinois: AOCS Press. xii + 331 p. See p. 23-51. [76 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Soybean oil. Traditional soyfoods: Nonfermented soyfoods (soymilk, tofu, variety and current market, nutritional value and health benets, general processing, soymilk lm {yuba}, okara, soybean sprouts, vegetable soybeans, roasted {soynuts} or cooked
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whole soybeans), fermented soyfoods (fermented soy paste {jiang and miso}, soy sauce, Japanese natto, tempeh, sufu or Chinese cheese, soy nuggets {douchi or Hamanatto}). Soy protein products: Soy our, soy protein concentrated, soy protein isolate, textured soy proteins. Modern soyfoods. Soy-enriched products. Functional soy ingredients / dietary supplements: Soy lecithin, oligosaccharides, isoavones, tocopherols, phytosterols, trypsin inhibitors. Figures: (1) Photo of traditional soyfoods. (2) Photo of soy our and defatted meal after crushing. (3) Bar chart of U.S. soyfood sales since 1992. (4) General ow chart of processing soybeans into various edible products. (5) Flow chart of a traditional Chinese method for making soymilk and tofu. (6) Bar chart of U.S. tofu sales since 1980. (7) Photo of natto, a fermented Japanese soyfood. (8) Flow chart of natto production outline. (9) Photo of soy protein products. (10) Photo of meat analog made by highmoisture extrusion of soybean protein. (11) Photo of new generation of soyfoods in the market. (12) Photo of soyenriched bakery products. (13) Photo of concentrated soy isoavone product. Tables: (1) Classication of various edible soy products in the current market. Address: Univ. of Missouri, Columbia, Missouri. 721. Wang, L.J.; Li, L.T.; Fang, J.F.; Saito, M.; Tatsumi, E. 2004. Antioxidative and angiotensin I-converting enzyme inhibitory activity of sufu (fermented tofu) extracts from various regions of China. JARQ (Japan Agricultural Research Quarterly) 10:324-27. [Eng]* 722. Law, Eugene. 2004. Intercontinentals best of China. Beijing, China: Intercontinental Press. 543 p. Illust. Maps. Index. 22 cm. * Summary: This is a guidebook to 53 of Chinas most popular destinations. Each Chinese word, term or phrase is written in both pinyin (with tones included) and Chinese characters (CC). The section on Shaoxing discusses Chinese wine, spirits, and food at length. Under Food and restaurants (p. 343-44) we read: Shaoxings preserved tofu (shaoxing furu + 4 Cc) takes tofu and preserves it in Shaoxing wine, giving it a mellow avor... Shaoxing stinky tofu (shaoxing youzha choudoufu + 6 Cc) tastes better than it sounds or smells; its particularly good deep fried. 723. Rubin, Jordan. 2004. The Makers diet. Lake Mary, Florida: Siloam. xiv + 304 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. [191 endnotes] Summary: The subtitle (on the cover only): The 40-day health experience that will change your life forever. Another anti-vegetarian, occasionally anti-soy, pro-meat book. He states that soy is an inferior protein and calls vegetarian eating The Hallelujah Diet. Mr. Rubin claims that phytic
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU acid in soy is toxic, and that only fermented forms of soy are safe. He claims that Asians eat tofu mostly in the form of fermented tofu (a preposterous claim) and that this is the only way to consume it, because the phytic acid is toxic and has to be destroyed in the fermentation process. He attacks vegetarians as well as vegans because of an anemic history of health. Note: The author lists his credentials on the books title page and cover as N.M.D., Ph.D. According to the website Quackwatch, his NMD (naturopathic medical doctor) is from the School of Natural Medicine at the Peoples University of the Americas (link), a nonaccredited school with no campus. His Ph.D. is from the Academy of Natural Therapies (link), a nonaccredited correspondence school that the State of Hawaii ordered to close last year (link). In addition, his CNC (Certied Nutritional Consultant) comes from the American Association of Nutritional Consultants, whose only requirement for a professional member status has been payment of a $50 or $60 fee. The CNC requires passage of a test based mainly on the contents of books that promote nutrition quackery. Rubins book, The Makers Diet, is number 14 on the New York Times list of hardcover advice books. Address: Palm Beach, Florida. 724. Takagi, Junko. 2004. The best of tofu. Translated from the Japanese by Kazuko Nagai and Karen Sandness. Tokyo: Japan Publications Trading. Distributed by Kodansha America through Oxford University Press. 112 p. Illust. (color). Index. 26 cm. * Summary: The section titled Preserved tofu includes: Tofu preserved in soy sauce with garlic (p. 82). Tofu preserved in miso (p. 82). Tofu preserved in herb oil (p. 83). Tofu preserved in kochujang (p. 82). 725. Yang, Andrew. 2005. A young Taipei nds its groove. New York Times. Jan. 23. p. D7. Summary: Night markets can be found throughout the city, with... food carts selling such favorites as oyster noodles and stinky tofu, a fermented bean curd. 726. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 2005. Doufu zhi shu [The book of tofu]. Taipei, Taiwan: Persimmon Cultural Enterprise Co., Ltd. viii + 270 p. Sept. 1. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi. No index. 26 cm. [Chi] Summary: A very attractive, complex character, Chineselanguage edition of The Book of Tofu (2nd ed. Ten Speed Press). Address: 1. Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 727. Brackett, Sylvan; Moore, Sue; Downing, Wendy. eds. 2005. The slow food guide to San Francisco and the Bay Area: Restaurants, markets, and bars. White River Junction, Vermont: Chelsea Green Publishing. x + 335 p. Illust. Maps. Index. 22 cm.
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Summary: Tainan Restaurant, 218 Barber Court, Milpitas (p. 61) is a Taiwanese street-food cafe that offers deep-fried stinky tofu. At Sunset Super (p. 254-55), located in Outer Sunset (2425 Irving Street, between 25th and 26th Avenues in San Francisco. Phone: {415} 682-3738) the aisles are packed with preserved foods of every variety, some identied only by Chinese characters. Among these you will nd jars of preserved tofu [probably fermented tofu] in a whole range of treatments. The word tofu appears on 15 pages in this book: 52 (cold tofu salads. Spicy Bean Curd Beef), 57 (classic Preserved Egg with Tofu plate), 58 (a variety of lamb, beef, seafood, and tofu selections), 105 (fried tofu {aburage}), 110 (a delicious tofu soup), 111 (bean sprouts, tofu,.... Pyung Chang Tofu House, 4701 Telegraph Ave., at 47th St., Oakland... silky tofu), 112 (Yoo devotes great care and attention to everything that arrives at your table, from the house-made kimchee to the locally produced tofu in the soon doo boo), 113 (kimchee jigae {spicy tofu soup}), 262 (freshly made tofu at San Jose Tofu Co., 175 Jackson St., San Jose. Phone: {408} 292-7026), 291 (Amidst the smoked tofu dip). Clams with black bean sauce (p. 51). Address: San Francisco Bay Area, California. 728. Hu, Shiu-ying. 2005. Food plants of China. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press. xvi + 844 p. Illust. Index. 26 cm. [350+ ref] Summary: This is a truly remarkable bookthe most original and comprehensive book seen to date on the food plants, plant foods, and the economic botany of China. It is the authors supremely valuable lifes work. Contents: Foreword by Richard Evans Schultes (Director, Botanical Museum of Harvard University, Emeritus). Foreword by George W. Staples, III (Bernice P. Bishop Museum, Honolulu, Hawaii). Introduction: Why the book and to whom is it addressed. Illustrations (numbered but on unnumbered pages). Part I: Cultural aspects of Chinese foods. 1. The sources and nature of information. 2. The production and preparation of Chinese plant food. 3. Selected Chinese food plants with instruction for preparation. 4. Spices and avoring materials. 5. Health food (bupin) and herbal tea (liangcha). Part II: Botanical aspects of Chinese food plants. 6. Nonvascular plants. 7. Vascular plants (incl. spermatophytes {seed-bearing plants} and angiospermae {owering plants}, incl. monocotyledons and dicotyledons). Bibliography. Latin name index. Chinese name index. English name index. On the inside front cover and facing right-hand page is a large map of China, with each province shown, and the localities of Shiu-Ying Hus botanical activities in China clearly show in symbols: white triangle = before and white circle = after 1950. A black triangle or circle = staying 8 or
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU more years. In each triangle or circle is a number, keyed to a list of the names of 65 localities. She did more research in southern China than in northern. There is no country in the world today where the value of useful plants is more thoroughly appreciated than in contemporary China (p. vii, Foreword 1). Dr. Hu is an expert taxonomist and economic botanist. She draws on the elds of plant taxonomy, morphology, economic botany, pharmacognosy, and phytochemistry to name a few, yet the text is far from a dry recitation of facts and statistics. What brings the work to life are the numerous anecdotes and personal experiences she shares. Indeed, this latter element gives the book the aspect of a personal memoir. The major divisions... are taxonomic and within each division the plants are arranged alphabetically by scientic name. Also provided are the names in Chinese characters, the transliteration in English of both the Putonghua and Cantonese pronunciations for the Chinese names, common names in English, and a brief commentary (p. ix-x, Foreword 2). The food plants of an area provide the material basis for the survival of its population and furnish inspiration for its cultural development. In China, 1,156 species and 274 varieties and/or cultivars of food plants have been recorded and are used by the people. The preparation of this work began in 1957 and a compilation was distributed at the Ninth Pacic Science Congress. Born in 1908, the author entered a boarding school in Xuzhou, Mary Stevens Girls High School, run by Presbyterian missionaries. In like manner she went to Ginling College, a small liberal college of arts and sciences in Nanjing. After college she entered Lingnan University (formerly Canton Christian College) in Guangzhou, from which she graduated with the master of science degree in June 1937a month before the Marco Polo Bridge Incident on July 7, 1937, when the Sino-Japanese War broke out in Beijing. She ed to Chengdu, Sichuan, where in Jan. 1938 she accepted a teaching position in the Department of Biology, West China Union Universityalso a missionary college. In the late 1930s and early 1940s, Hu had botanized in western Sichuan at a time when only a few men (notably Armand David, Joseph Rock, and E. Wilson) had explored that region. During summer vacations, she took students to botanize around Muping. At West China Union University, Hu continued her eld studies, taught courses in botany, and was elected president of the International Womens Club. The vice president of the club, who was a Radcliffe graduate, applied to Radcliffe for a fellowship for Hu. She left China on 2 Aug. 1946 for graduate work at Radcliffe College; it was like a metamorphosisthe United States was a completely new world. In 1946 she was offered a graduate fellowship for a doctorate (PhD) program at Radcliffe College under Prof. E.D. Merrill, then Director of the Arnold Arboretum (Harvard Univ.) from 1935-1946.
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Her doctoral dissertation on the genus Ilex (Aquifoliaceae) was carried out at the Arnold Arboretum under the direction of E.D. Merrill. After completing the requirements and nishing the dissertation for a doctorate degree at Harvard, in April 1949, she became the herbarium assistant at the Arnold Arboretum. From 1953 to 1957 she worked on the Flora of China Project at Arnold Arboretum. Among other things, she became famous for her Chinese dinners with staff and students alike. She ofcially retired from the Arnold Arboretum on 30 June 1976. Dr. Hu returned to China in July 1975, after 29 years abroad. Since the normalization of diplomatic relations between the USA and China in 1978, she has made many trips to China, and travelled studied extensively (p. xi-xii, 12-14). As of Aug. 2011 Dr. Hu resides in Hong Kong and is closely associated with the Chinese University of Hong Kong. A photo (Fig. 1) shows the author in 1941 as a young lady in Tibetan attire; she spent summers in the area formerly called Eastern Tibet. Fig. 34, an illustration composed of seven superb line drawings (each with a scale) showing the soybean plant, a owering branch, the front view of a ower, a lateral (side) view of the same, a fruit (pod with 2 seeds) with one side of the pericarp (outer pod) removedshowing the seeds, a soybean seed showing the acentric hilum, the micropyle and the hypocotyl ridge, soybean sprouts from a market showing the smooth eshy cotyledons, the hypocotyl and the very small plumule. Fig. 35. Four black and white photos showing: (1) Two round trays of koji, made of cooked soybeans, roasted wheat our, and fungal spores, in shelves, to be used for making soy sauce. (2) Large earthen jars with convenient hat-like covers, containing the koji, salt and water, placed in the yard of the jiang-yuan (2 CC = Chinese characters given) (jiang garden), exposed to the sun during the day and dew at night, covered only when it rains and stirred occasionally. (3) A man stirring hot soymilk in a large shallow cauldron before adding pulverized calcium sulfate for precipitation of the soybean protein, used to make tofu. (4) A wooden frame [curding box], lined with cloth for ltering the coagulated protein and solidifying the mass (under small pressure) to make bean curd. Soybeans (Huang-dou, 2 CC). Before World War II, the United States was a net importer of soybeans; now she is a net exporter. Although soybean products have entered American supermarkets, several Chinese uses of soybean can introduce more variety and tastier food into many homes (Figure 35). Included... are: green immature soybean, soybean curd, soybean sheets [pressed tofu sheets], rm bean curd squares [pressed tofu], soybean skin [yuba], and soybean sprouts. With the exception of soybean sheets, all these items are available in Chinese American grocery stores. The Food Plants Research Institute, Amherst,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Massachusetts, is in the process of introducing soybean sheets (3 CC) to American markets (p. 118-19). Hordeum vulgare L. var. vulgareBarley Da-mai (W.-G. Ta-mai) (2 CC, big grain). ... also ground with sorghum and soybean for a coarse, healthy, ber bread our. Glycine max (L.) MerrillSoybean. Da-dou (W.-G.: Ta-tou). (2 CC) (giant bean). Huang-dou (W.-G.: Huangtou). (2 CC) (yellow bean). Seed mixed with gao-liang (kaoliang) and barley, ground together for our, used to be the staple of the rural population in the Yellow River Region; soaked, cooked with salt, served as tidbits in northern China; used as source for all the following forms of Chinese food (p. 474). Dou-you (W.-G.: Tou-yu). (2 CC) (soybean oil). Cooking oil extracted from the soybean. (p. 474). Address: Botanist, Arnold Arboretum, Harvard University; Honorary Professor of Chinese Medicine, The Chinese University of Hong Kong. 729. Hu, Shiu-ying. 2005. Fermented soybean foods: Bean curd cheeses (Document part). In: Shiu-ying Hu. 2005. Food Plants of China. Hong Kong: Chinese University Press. xvi + 844 p. See p. 36. Illust. Index. 26 cm. Summary: This is a truly remarkable, original and comprehensive book. Bean curd cheese is called dou-fu-ru (tou-fu-ru) (3 CC = Chinese characters given) bean curd milk. Unlike bean curd, it is soft and aromatic, used as a dip, a spread, or an ingredient in cooking. It is made from cubes of bean curd 3 cm on a side. These are placed in a single layer on at trays which are stacked on shelves in a closed room to ferment. When white mold grows up to 2-3 cm thick over the bean curd, salt and spices and/or coloring matter are added and the mixture is placed in an earthenware urn for aging. The common type of bean curd cheese is chou-dou-furu (4 CC) (rotten bean curd cheese) which appears gray and soft, and each square covered with a thin, slimy lm. The Chinese people eat it as a relish, and in America it is served on crackers as an hors doeuvre. A similar type is la-dou-furu (4 CC) (hot rotten bean curd cheese), which is seasoned with red hot pepper akes or powder before aging. A milder type appears brown. It is prepared by adding powdered, red fermented rice [hong zao / ang-kak], salt and spices to the bean curd before aging. The nished product is rmer than the common gray type, and it has a special aroma. It is called nan-ru (2 CC) (southern bean curd cheese), and is used not only as a relish, but also for cooking a special chicken dish, nan-ru Chicken. All three types of bean curd cheese are available in American Chinese [grocery] stores, either in bottles or in cans (p. 36). Zygomycetes (pronounced zy-go-my-SEE-teez) Rhizopus stolonifer is the white mold used to make dou-furu (Bean curd cheese). In home-made bean curd cheese, airborne spores of the fungus germinate and grow on the
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bean curd, completely covering it with the white mycelium; spices and salt added afterward (p. 262). FungiAscomycetes (pronunciation as-ko-my-SEEteez)Monascus purpureus Went. (1) Hong-qu (W.-G. Hungchu) (2 CC, red brewers yeast [sic, it is a fungus / mold]). (2) Hong-zao (W.-G. Hung-tsao) (2 CC, red fermented grain [also called ang-kak]). Mycelium and spores of fungus and fermented rice grain; used to cook chicken, prepare brownred [brown or red] bean curd cheese, or to color pastry (p. 263). Dou-fu-ru (W.-G.: Tou-fu-ru). (3 CC) (bean curd cheese). Soft products of bean curd prepared after fermentation of Rhizopus (for the gray types) or Monascus (for the red types) (p. 474). Address: Botanist, Arnold Arboretum, Harvard University; Honorary Professor of Chinese Medicine, The Chinese University of Hong Kong. 730. Weiner, Rebecca; Eagan, Angie; Jun, Xu. 2005. Culture shock! Shanghai: A survival guide to customs and etiquette. Portland, Oregon: Graphic Arts Center Publishing Co. xi + 332 p. Illust. Maps. 21 cm. [58 ref] Summary: In Chapter 7, Enjoying life, in a section titled Old section walking tour we read (p. 180): ... or hold your nose past a chou doufu (stinky tofu) stand. Enjoy it all. This is the Real Thing. But watch out for pickpockets. Note 1. The Chinese Communist Party (CCP) was as founded in the anti-imperialist ferment of foreign-controlled Shanghai (p. 8). Note 2. Rebecca has lived in China for 11 of the past 15 years, including 5 years in Shanghai. She has now returned to the USA to live with her husband and their daughter. Address: 1. USA. 731. Davidson, Alan; Jaine, Tom. 2006. The Oxford companion to food. New York, NY and Oxford, England: Oxford University Press. xxviii + 907 p. Illust. by Soun Vannithone. Index. 29 cm. [1500+* ref] Summary: The rst edition of this remarkable book (1999) is already a classic. Alan Davidson famously wrote eighty percent of the rst edition, which was praised for its wit as well as its wisdom. Tom Jaine, editor of the second edition, worked closely with Jane Davidson and Helen Saberi to ensure that new contributions continue in the same style... The text has been updated where necessary and there are many new entries. The front matter, which is 10 pages longer, begins with Alan Davidson: A tribute (p. vii; he died in 2003) followed by a Preface to the Second edition by Tom Jaine. Entries in the 1st edition are generally on a different page in this edition. Tofu, for example, formerly on pages 798-99, is now on pages 801-02; however the information is the same. The marvelous illustrations in both editions are by the same artist. The last page of this edition is page 907 compared with page 902 in the 1st edition. Address: Worlds End, Chelsea, London, England.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Penang, Malaysia. 732. Moey, S.C. 2006. Chinese feasts & festivals: A cookbook. Singapore: Periplus Editions. 144 p. See p. 28. Illust. by the author (Color). 31 cm. Summary: A colorful book with marvelous, creative illustrations. The recipe for Pork and taro bowl (p. 28) has a headnote which begins: This is a festive Hakka dish, obligatory for every Hakka celebration... Red preserved bean curd (nam yee) has a pungent avor rather like strong cheese. It comes in cubes packed in jars or bottles and is available in Asian food stores. The recipe calls for 2 tablespoons red preserved bean curd (nam yee). Note 1. This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2010) that uses the term red preserved bean curd to refer to a type of fermented tofu. The recipe for Five spice rolls (p. 29) notes that these rolls are a Fukienese favorite. Dried sheets of bean curd skin [yuba] are traditionally used to wrap them and can be bought from health food stores or Chinese grocers. The recipe calls for 4 large sheets dried bean skin. The directions read: 2. Wipe the dried bean curd skins with a damp cloth to soften them, then cut the sheets in to sixteen 6-inch (15-cm) squares. Set aside. The recipe for Good luck spring rolls (p. 45) calls for 10 sheets dried bean curd skin. The recipe for Braised assorted vegetables (p. 52) is an adaptation of the traditional Buddhist vegetarian dish Lohanzai. Popular additions include dried bean curd sticks. The basic recipe calls for 1 tablespoon red preserved bean curd [nam yee]. Six recipes call for black soy sauce. In the Vital ingredients section [glossary] (p. 13441) are entries for the following soy-related ingredients: Dried bean curd skin [dried yuba]. Hoisin sauce (a sweet brown sauce based on yellow soybeans). Hot bean sauce or chili bean sauce (a smooth red sauce made from yellow bean sauce mixed with chilies). Oyster sauce (contains soy sauce). Preserved bean curd (has the consistency and pungency of strong smelling cheese. The two main varieties are red (colored with red rice) or brown; chili and rice wine are often added. Red preserved bean curd (nam yee) has chili and hoisin sauce added to it during fermentation). Soy sauce (The two main varieties for cooking are light and black soy sauce. Regular soy sauce {light} is saltier and thinner, and is used as a seasoning in cooking and as a table dip. Black soy sauce is darker, thicker and richer in color, and is slightly sweeter in taste. Used as a browning agent for roasting or braising meats, it contributed color as well as avor. Also available are mushroom-avored soy sauces, seasoned soy sauces for seafood and chili soy sauces). Yellow bean paste (tau cheo in Hokkien is also known as fermented bean paste or black bean paste and is similar to Japanese miso). Address: Freelance writer, artist and cook,
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733. Planck, Nina. 2006. Real food: What to eat and why. New York and London: Bloomsbury Publishing. [viii] + 343 p. Index. 22 cm. [30+ ref] Summary: This book is carefully researched and very well, thoughtfully and fairly written; the author has written for Time magazine and comes with very good credentials for this book. Born in 1971 in Buffalo, New York. She was a speechwriter to the U.S. ambassador to Britain when she opened the rst farmers market in London on June 6, 1999. Six months later she quit her job to open ten more markets, write The Farmers Market Cookbook, and host a British television series on local food. In 2003 Nina created the Mount Pleasant Local Food Market in Washington, D.C. In New York City she ran Greenmarket, the largest network of farmers markets in the United States. Ninas new company, Real Food, runs markets for farmers and purveyors of regional and traditional foods (About the author, p. 344). The author advocates the following: (1) Eat real, traditional foods rather than more modern industrial foods. These real foods include plenty of meat, sh, poultry, eggs, and dairy products made from whole raw (unpasteurized) milk from cows grazed outdoors on grass (rather than corn and soybeans, which cows were not designed by eat by nature) without synthetic hormonesplus real, organically grown fruits, vegetables, whole grains and legumes (including traditional soy foods), real salt, and dark chocolate (2) Eat real fatsincluding butter, beef fat, coconut oil, lard, and extra-virgin olive oil, including saturated fats and cholesterol. Avoid industrial fatssuch as margarine, polyunsaturated vegetable oils (including soybean, corn, and sunower oil), and shortening. (3) Go beyond and disregard the cholesterol myth; the evidence supporting it is weak. (4) Stop eating a vegetarian diet, and especially a vegan diet (which no traditional society has ever practiced). To start with the section on soy foods: In the Chapter 8, titled Other real foods, the section on soy foods is titled Traditional and industrial soy are different (p. 225-34). Traditional soy foods are those that have a long history in the diet, and are still made in pretty much the way they used to be. Her information on the early history of the soybean and soy foods (p. 225-26) contains many errors, as well as some interesting observations. Some of the earliest soyfoods were fermented (starting with soy nuggets and jiang in China). She lists ve health benets of fermentation. Fermentation (along with cooking) helps to reduce the phytic acid in soybeans. Soy foods do not contain reliable vitamin B-12. The author states several times that soy protein is not complete protein. Most nutritionists for the past 50 years have correctly avoided this is vs. is not labeling and instead have listed all foods along a continuum from high quality to low quality. By the latest measures of protein quality, soy protein (by itself, without supplementation by cereal grains)
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU has about the same quality as beef, but lower than that of eggs or milk. While noting that about 85% of all soybeans are genetically engineered, she fails to mention that most traditional soyfoods in the USA are made from organic, nonGE soybeans. She discusses the important part that soy plays in the Okinawan diet, where the people have the highest longevity in the world. Yet soy should be viewed as part of a diverse diet, not as a nutritional silver bullet. We heartily agree. She lists the many traditional soyfoods (p. 231-32), made basically the traditional way, including: Bean sauce (jiang), miso, natto, soy milk (non-industrial), soy sauce. sufu (fermented tofu, incl. Filipino tahuri), tofuyo (fermented tofu from Okinawa), tamari (liquid left after miso is made), tempeh, tofu, and edamame. She recommends that we avoid modern soy protein products made from defatted soybean meal (typically extracted with hexane solvent), including soy protein isolate, industrial soy milk, soy based infant formula, and soy sauce which uses defatted soybean meal instead of whole soybeans. But what would she do with all the oil left over after using whole soybeans? Concerning a diet rich in sh, meat, and poultry. She partly ignores the ethical issues involved in killing billions of those animals each year and the environmental issues involved in raising them. These are both huge issues. Several complex issues that she addresses head-on and in a fair, interesting way: (1) Is milk good for humans (p. 39-86). One of the basic hopes / agendas behind this book is that people will start to leave cities, buy a piece of land (as the authors own family did when she was age 2), grow their own food and raise their own animals for milk, meat, and eggs. There is a steadily growing number of books advocating this traditional way of life. The Glossary (p. 306-15) contains many good denitions that most people will be able to understand. The bibliography (p. 316-21) is substantial, and there are also endnotes (p. 290-303) but the book would be better if more of its controversial or historical statements cited authoritative sources. Address: USA. 734. Sumi, Hiroyuki; Yatagai, Chieko. 2006. Fermented soybean components and disease prevention. In: Michihiro Sugano, ed. 2006. Soy in Health and Disease Prevention. Boca Raton, Florida: Taylor & Francis. [xii] + 313 p. See p. 251-278. [76 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Natto: Antibacterial activity of natto and natto bacillus, brinolytic enzyme substances contained in natto, depressor effects, carcinostatic effects, and dissipation of the effects of alcoholic drinks, preventive effects for osteoporosis. Tempeh: Strong antibacterial activity and effectiveness against intestinal disorders, antioxidant, antiallergic, and beauty care effects, starters for tempeh and high nutritional value. Shoyu (soy sauce): Antibacterial, antioxidation, and depressor effect, antitumor effects. Miso (soybean paste): Effectiveness of
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soybean paste for cancer prevention, depressor effects, antioxidation and antiradioactivity effects. Tofuyo. Tables: (1) Dipicolic acid in natto and Bacillus subtilis natto. (2) Fibrinolytic activity in human plasma after the intake of natto. (3) Expired gas and intestinal gas after intake of tempeh. (4) Isoavone content in tempeh. (5) Antioxidation activity of the aromatic components of shoyu (soy sauce). (6) Functional effects of melanoidine contained in shoyu (soy sauce) and miso (soybean paste). Figures: (1) Graph of the effects on O-157 as a result of the addition of natto bacillus. (2) Graph of the effects on H. pylori (Sydney strain) resulting from the addition of natto extracts. (3) Photo of brinolytic activity of natto. A piece of natto commonly sold on the market was placed in a petri dish with articial thrombus. (4) The molecular structure of nattokinase. (5) Photo of brinolytic activity of nattokinase. (6) 3 graphs of changes in the brinolytic parameters in the blood after oral administration of nattokinase to human volunteers. (7) Graph of the effects of natto extracts on blood pressure. (8) Graph of the inhibitor activity of platelet aggregation. (9) 2 graphs of the concentration of vitamin K2 in human blood after the intake of natto. (10) Bar chart of change in the concentration of menaquinone-7 in plasma after ingestion of natto. (11) Graph of the effects of the tempeh bacteria on aatoxin-producing bacteria. (12) Diagrams of the aromatic components of shoyu (soy sauce). (13) Bar chart of the effects of the concentration of nitrous acid on the antitumor activity of shoyu (soy sauce). (14) Chart of the carcinogenesis inhibitor effects of HEMF against proventriculus tumors induced by benzo[a]pyrene. (15) Bar chart of standardized mortality from stomach cancer relative to the level of frequency of eating miso soup. (16) Graph of changes in blood pressure by oral administration of miso (soybean paste) extracts. (17) Graph of reaction between coloring degree of miso and its antioxidative activity. Address: Dep. of Physiological Chemistry, Kurashiki Univ. of Science and the Arts, Kurashiki, Japan. 735. Shurtleff, William. 2007. Re: Fermented tofu: Etymology of related terms. Letter to Oxford University Press, Oxford English Dictionary, Great Clarendon St., Oxford OX2 6DP, United Kingdom. March 8. 2 p. Typed, without signature. Summary: Of all the words and terms for foods or seasonings made from soybeans, this one has taken the longest to become standardized. Forty different names appear in 400+ English-language records in our SoyaScan database from 1902 to the present. Some of these are foreign words, such as tahuri, tahuli, or tajure, from the Philippines. The standard term is now fermented tofu, however several other terms still appear in the literature. Column 1 shows the number of records in the SoyaScan database that mention this word or term: 122Fermented tofu. 89Sufu. 32Bean cheese. 24
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Soybean cheese. 20Chinese Cheese. 19Pickled bean curd. 14Soy cheese. 14Fermented soybean curd. The large number of names can be accounted for by four main factors: (1) Fermented tofu is made in many different countries in East- and Southeast Asia, and in each country it has a different name. (2) In China, where this food originated, many different varieties are made in different parts of the country, leading to a surprising proliferation of names and ways of Romanizing those names. (3) Fermented tofu is used more as a seasoning than a food. In Asia, it is typically used as a seasoning placed atop a bowl of rice. Thus, it is not as conspicuous as a typical food, such as tofu. (4) Fermented Tofu has never been widely used as a food (or widely available) in English-speaking countries, so the demand for a standard name (like yogurt) has been weak. Yet most Americans who try this food, like it very much, and some say the various wine-fermented varieties are among the most delicious seasonings they have ever tasted. Etymology: Fermented tofu rst appeared in June 1946, just as the word tofu was starting to replace bean curd in English. Denition: There are two basic types of fermented tofu: Molded and unmoldedbrined. The former is by far the most popular worldwide. The molded varieties are made using an unusual two-part fermentation, as follows: (1) Firm tofu is drained, dried, diced, inoculated with spores of an Actinomucor or Mucor mold. The cubes are incubated until each cube is covered with a fragrant white mycelium of mold. These molded cubes are called pehtzes. This mold is the source of enzymes for the next part. (2) The pehtzes are placed in glass jars and covered with a brining solution consisting of water plus about 12% table salt (NaCl) and about 10% ethanol (typically from rice wine). Various seasonings are often also mixed into in the brining solution, or covered with sake lees. The jars are sealed and the fermented tofu will be ready to eat in 2-6 weeks. I have chosen only the 12 most widely used Englishlanguage terms, but am also including a short list of the other 40. Address: Soyfoods Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549. 736. Ross, Julia. 2007. Making tracks. Time (Asia). April 12. Summary: In Tainan, Taiwan, a crowd converges on weekends to inhale the aroma of xiao chi, or street snacks: fermented tofu, fried wontons, grilled mushrooms and cofn cakes, the local version of pot pies. 737. Pirello, Christina. 2007. Cooking the whole foods way: Your complete, everyday guide to healthy, delicious eating with 500 vegan recipes, menus, techniques, meal planning, buying tips, wit & wisdom. Revised and updated edition. New York, NY: Home Books. xiii + 354 p. Aug. Illust. (by Christina Pirello). Index. 24 cm. [38 ref] Summary: On the cover: Includes 80 new recipes.
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Revised and updatedNow 100% vegan. This is basically a macrobiotic cookbook with 500 vegan recipes. One long chapter is titled Tasty tofu, tempeh and seitan (p. 115-40). Other soy-related recipes include: Basic miso soup (p. 35). Miso millet stew (p. 64). Minute miso soup (p. 82). Black soybean relish (p. 101; as black soybeans are simmered, they create their own gravy). Baked beans with miso & apple butter (p. 109). Tofu cheese (with miso, p. 118-19). Lemon miso sauce (p. 276). Also contains recipes for amasake, azuki beans, mochi, and sea vegetables. The recipe for Tofu cheese (p. 118-19) is very creative and delicious. About the author: A brief biography is on the rear cover; a color portrait photo is on the front cover. Address: Emmy Award-winning host of national public televisions Christina Cooks. 738. 1001 foods to die for. 2007. Kansas City, Missouri: Andrews McMeel Publishing LLC. Madison Books. 960 p. Introduction by Corby Kummer. Illust (color). Index. 22 cm. * 739. Bittman, Mark. 2007. How to cook everything vegetarian: simple meatless recipes for great food. Hoboken, New Jersey: John Wiley & Sons. xii + 996 p. Illust. Index. 24 cm. * Summary: The chapter titled Tofu, vegetable burgers, and other high-protein foods (p. 637) has this contents: Introduction. The umami factor. The basics of tofu: The tofu lexicon (regular tofu, silken tofu, pressed or extra-rm tofu, smoked tofu, fried tofu, baked tofu, fermented or pickled tofu, tofu skins {dried bean stick, yuba, bean curd sheets or skins}). Buying and storing tofu. Preparing tofu (freezing, squeezing, pureing,...) Address: New York Times food writer. 740. Shurtleff, William; Aoyagi, Akiko. 2008. Le livre du tofu: La source de protines de lavenirds maintenant! [The book of tofu: Protein source of the futurenow! Translated from the English by Nathalie Tremblay]. Varennes, Quebec, Canada: ditions AdA Inc. 430 p. Illust. by Akiko Aoyagi. Index. Feb. 28 cm. [53 ref. Fre] Summary: Contents: Preface. Acknowledgements. Part I. Tofu: Food for mankind. 1. Protein East and West. 2. Tofu as a food. 3. Getting started. Our favorite tofu recipes (lists about 80 recipe names for each of the different types of tofu, plus soymilk, yuba, whole soybeans, g, okara, and curds; very favorites that are also quick and easy to prepare are preceded by an asterisk). Part II. Cooking with tofu: Recipes from East and West (500 recipes). 4. Soybeans: History, cooking with whole dry soybeans, roasted soybeans (iri-mame), fresh green soybeans (edamame), kinako (roasted full-fat soy our), soybean sprouts (daizu no moyashi), natto (sticky fermented whole
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU soybeans, with gossamer threads), tempeh (fermented soybean cakes), Hamanatto and Daitokuji natto (raisin-like natto), modern western soybean foods (natural soy our [full-fat], soy granules, defatted soy our and grits, soy protein concentrates, soy protein isolates, spun protein bers, textured vegetable protein (TVP), soy oil products). 5. G (a thick white puree of well-soaked uncooked soybeans). 6. Okara or Unohana. 7. Curds and whey. 8. Tofu (includes history, and preparatory techniques: Parboiling, draining, pressing {towel and fridge method, slanting press method, sliced tofu method}, squeezing, scrambling, reshaping, crumbling, grinding). 9. Deep-fried tofu: Thick ag or nama ag, ganmo or ganmodoki (incl. hiryozu / hirosu), ag or aburag (incl. Smoked tofu, p. 197). 10. Soymilk. 11. Kinugoshi (Kinu means silk; kosu means to strain; well named, kinugoshi tofu has a texture so smooth that it seems to have been strained through silk). 12. Grilled tofu. 13. Frozen and dried-frozen tofu. 14. Yuba (incl. many meat alternatives such as Yuba mock broiled eels, Buddhas chicken, Buddhas ham, sausage). 15. Tofu and yuba in China, Taiwan, and Korea (incl. Savory tofu {wu-hsiang kan}; see p. 258 for illustrations of many meat alternatives, incl. Buddhas sh, chicken, drumsticks, and duck, plus vegetarian liver and tripe, molded pigs head, and molded ham). 16. Special tofu. Part IIIJapanese farmhouse tofu: Making tofu for more and more people. 17. The quest. 18. Making community tofu. 19. The traditional craftsman. 20. Making tofu in the traditional way. Appendices: A. Tofu restaurants in Japan (many are vegetarian). B. Tofu shops in the West (Directory of 43 shops in the USA, 3 in Europe {Germany, Austria, Belgium, Denmark, Finland, France, Ireland, Italy, Netherlands, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, UK, Wales}, and 3 in Latin America {Brazil, Colombia, El Salvador, Guatemala, Mexico}). C. People and institutions connected with tofu. D. Table of equivalents. Bibliography. Glossary. Index. About the authors (autobiographical sketches; a photo shows Shurtleff and Aoyagi, and gives their address as NewAge Foods Study Center, 278-28 Higashi Oizumi, Nerimaku, Tokyo, Japan 177). Sending tofu in the four directions. Pudding recipes include: Rice pudding with g and apple (p. 76, incl. 2 cups soymilk). Tofu chawan-mushi (p. 147; Steamed egg-vegetable custard with tofu). Tofu fruit whips (p. 148). Tofu rice pudding (p. 150, incl. 1 cup soymilk). Tofu custard pudding (p. 152). Soymilk custard pudding (p. 208). Brown rice pudding (p. 208, with 2 cups soymilk). Soymilk chawan-mushi (p. 209). Chawan-mushi with yuba (p. 249). Dessert recipes include: Tofu whipped cream or yogurt (p. 148; resembles a pudding or parfait). Tofu ice cream (p. 149, with chilled tofu, honey, vanilla extract and salt). Banana-tofu milkshake (p. 149). Tofu cream cheese dessert balls (p. 149). Tofu icing (for cake, p. 149). Tofu cheesecake (p. 150). Tofu-pineapple sherbet (p. 151). Also: Soymilk
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yogurt (cultured, p. 205). Healthy banana milkshake (p. 206). On p. 160 is a recipe for Mock tuna salad with deep fried tofu. Address: Soyinfo Center, P.O. Box 234, Lafayette, California 94549 USA. Phone: 925-283-2991. 741. Liu, KeShun. 2008. Food use of whole soybeans. In: Lawrence A. Johnson et al. eds. 2008. Soybeans: Chemistry, Production, Processing, and Utilization. Urbana, Illinois: AOCS Press. viii + 842 p. See p. 441-481. Chap. 14. [85 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Non-fermented soyfoods: Soymilk (traditional soymilk, modern soymilk {techniques to reduce beany avors, formulation and fortication, homogenization, thermal processing, and packaging}), tofu (preparation methods, factors involved in tofu-making {soybean varieties, storage and pretreatment, solids concentration, heating, type of coagulants, coagulant concentration, coagulation temperature, coagulation time, process automation, packaging}, varieties of tofu {silken tofu, regular and rm tofus, varieties of tofu products}), green vegetable soybeans, soybean sprouts, yuba, okara, roasted or cooked soybeans. Fermented soyfoods: Terms (Koji {fermentation, koji starter, inoculum}), fermented soy paste (preparation method {preparing rice koji, treating soybeans, mixing and mashing, fermenting, pasteurizing and packaging}, processing principles), soy sauce (preparation method {treating raw materials, koji making, brine fermentation, pressing, rening}, processing principles, chemical soy sauce), Japanese natto (preparation method, processing principles), Indonesia tempeh (processing method, processing principles), fermented soymilk, fermented tofu (preparation method, processing principles), soy nuggets (Chinese douchi, Japanese hamanatto). Conclusion. Figures show: (1) Flowchart of a traditional Chinese method for making soymilk and tofu. (2) Photo of savory tofu dices. (3) Photo of soy sprouts. (4) Photo of yuba (soymilk lm). (5) Photo of Chinese jiang and Japanese white and red miso. (6) Flow chart of a common method for making Japanese rice miso. (7) Photo of Japanese natto. (8) Flow chart of a traditional Indonesian method for making tempeh. (9) Photo of Chinese douchi (soy nuggets or fermented whole soybeans). Address: Research Chemist, U.S. Dep. of Agriculture, Agricultural Research Service, Grain Chemistry and Utilization Lab., Aberdeen, Idaho 83210. 742. Lauterbach, Christiane. 2008. The joy of soy: The citys rst Korean tofu house still sizzles. Atlanta Magazine. June. p. 54. * Summary: A rediscovery of 88 Tofu House, which opened in 2000 and has now achieved cult classic status. It is located at 5490 Buford Highway. Phone: 770-457-8811. ... spicy bowls of kimchi, pickled tofu, daikon, salted sh, sprouts and morehelps focus ones attention.
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743. Mintz, Sidney W. 2008. Fermented beans and western taste. In: Christine M. Du Bois, C.-B. Tan, and S.W. Mintz, eds. 2008. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. viii + 337 p. See p. 56-73. [37 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. The distribution of fermented legumes in local food systems. The absence of fermented legumes from western food history. The future of fermented legumes in the West. Address: Johns Hopkins Univ., USA, emeritus professor of anthropology.. 744. Nguyen, Can Van. 2008. Tofu in Vietnamese life. Translated by Duong Thanh Nguyen. In: Christine M. Du Bois, C.-B. Tan, and S.W. Mintz, eds. 2008. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. viii + 337 p. See p. 182-194. [7 ref] Summary: Contents: The origins of tofu in Vietnam: Oral history and direct documentary evidence, evidence for the earlier diffusion of tofu. The role of tofu in Vietnamese life. Tofu in Vietnamese cuisine. Other soybean uses. A photo shows a man making tofu in Hanoi, Vietnam. Tofu is a popular daily food throughout Vietnam. It would be difcult to nd anyone who eats rice but never eats tofu. Most Vietnamese consider tofu a traditional, cheap, and well-liked dish. In Vietnam, certain villages have long specialized in tofu production. Elderly informants told us that it is a hereditary trade, handed down from generation to generation for a long time. But these elders do not know when or how this skill came to Vietnam. In Vietnam, it is hard to nd early documents that mention tofu or soybeans, for after so many decades of war, many of the old scripts and documents have been lost. For example, the Dai Viet Su Ky Toan Thu (Complete Set of Dai Viet History) is thought to be the most reliable history of Vietnam. The introductory chapter of the 1983 edition states that it was written by Le Van Huu (lived AD 12301322), nished in 1272, and consisted of thirty volumes. But no original is known to exist today, and some scholars doubt that there ever were 30 volumes. The original of the 1983 version was edited and printed in 1697 by historians who lived some 400 years after the original edition was rst printed. Two early Vietnamese books that mention soybeans and tofu have been found. Both are available in modern editions: (1) Van Dai Loai Ngu, by Le Quy Don (lived AD 17231783); modern edition published 1962. In his discussion of grains, he mentions soybean (dai dau). (2) Nu Cong Thank Lam, by Le Huu Trac (lived AD 1720-1791); modern edition 1971. He stated that the soybean (dau nanh) has a sweet and warm nature, and is good for recovery after an injury, for the beauty of women, for bone marrow, for vitality, and as an antidote for ingested toxins. He noted the tofu contains nourishing substances (known today as amino acids and
vitamins). He described two methods of separating liquid soymilk from the solid residue and then of curding the soymilk to make tofu, and he gave eight vegetarian dishes made with tofuincluding: Tofu soaked in soy sauce; Wine fermented tofu. Grilled vegetarian tofu chao. Le Quy Don and Le Hu Trac are two famous 18th century Vietnamese polymaths. Since both men were born in the early 1700s, it seems quite likely that tofu existed in Vietnam during the 1600s. However, some scholars believe that tofu arrived in Vietnam much earlier, in the 10th to 11th centuries. These scholars given four reasons for their beliefall based on circumstantial evidence. (1) Early relations and mass migrations: China and Vietnam have had relations for more than 2,000 years. Chinese imperial envoys imparted cultural information to small groups of Vietnamese leaders. Moreover, there were many wars between China and Vietnam throughout their ancient history. The migration of thousands of people during these times also spread cultural knowledgesuch as (perhaps) how to make tofu. (2) Migrations of Chinese and Vietnamese Buddhists: Because Buddhists have traditionally been vegetarians, they have long been interested in soybeans and soyfoods. A book titled Thien Uyen Tap Anh, considered to have rst appeared in the 13th to 14th centuries AD, states that the Buddhist master Vo Ngon Thong (?-AD 826) came from Quang Dong (Guangdong [Canton]), China... In December 1820 he came to Kien So temple (now in Gia Lam district, Hanoi) to meditate and founded the Vo Ngon Thong sect in Vietnam (Vietnam Buddhist Church 1990). Elsewhere the book describes how two other Chinese Buddhist masters came to Vietnam during the periods 1054-1071 and 1091-1170. In addition, the monks who were students of these masters went to China during this period to meditate. The Vietnamese may well have learned how to make and use tofu during this time either in Vietnam or in China. (3) Exchanges between the imperial governments of China and Vietnam: There were frequent high-level exchanges. The Complete Set of Dai Viet History mentions that in the year 1007 the Vietnamese emperor sent two envoys to Song dynasty China; they returned in 1009. In the year 1020 another envoy went to China and returned. These envoys may have eaten tofu while in China, and they may have asked for training in how to make it. (4) Vietnamese folk songs and sayings: These suggest an ancient origin for tofu in Vietnam. The words to one song say: If you want to enjoy tofu with traditional Chinese soy sauce, sharpen your knife ad scissors, shave your head, and become a monk. This suggests that tofu rst appeared in Vietnam in Buddhist templesduring the Northern Song dynasty in China, and the Ly and Tran dynasties in Vietnam. Nevertheless, these are only theories. Since ancient times, Vietnamese have eaten vegetarian
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU dishes every day, including tofu, in accord with their beliefs that vegetarian food is clean and promotes tranquility. In Vietnam today, various types of tofu are sold including: Firm tofu, grilled tofu, deep-fried tofu, fermented tofu, and soft tofu. It is used in four basic categories of dishes: vegetarian, nonvegetarian, vegetarian soups, and nonvegetarian soups. The two most popular dishes cooked in Vietnamese homes are: Boiled tofu with sauce (dau phu luoc). Tofu cooked with tomatoes and ginger (dau phu sot ca chua). Other foods made from soybeans: (1) Soymilk, served sweetened with sugar. Before carbonated beverages / soft drinks became popular, during the hot summer months, soymilk was the favorite drink in Vietnam. Today some families still make soymilk at home. (2) Soy sauce (dau tuong). (3) Sweet silken tofu, curded with calcium sulfate (tao pho). (4) Meat alternatives made from tofu. Address: National Academy of Social Sciences and Humanities, Hanoi, Vietnam, researcher at Chinese Studies Institute.. 745. Tan, Chee-beng. 2008. Tofu and related products in Chinese foodways. In: Christine M. Du Bois, C.-B. Tan, and S.W. Mintz, eds. 2008. Urbana, Illinois: University of Illinois Press. viii + 337 p. See p. 99-120. [39 ref] Summary: Contents: Introduction. Historical background. Production and marketing of tofu. Consumptiontofu and Chinese foodways. Tofus symbolic associations. Conclusion. Tofu and related foods consumed in China include: (1) Tofu. It is called doufu in Standard Chinese or Mandarin (Putonghua), dauh-fu in Cantonese, and tauhu in Minnahua or Hokkien (2) Doufujiang, more commonly known as doujiang, which is soymilk. (3) Doufu hua (soybean custard), or more commonly douhua. (3) Doufu pi (tofu skin [yuba]). (4) Zhizhu [fuzhu] (tofu sticks). (5) Doufu pao (small blocks of deep-fried tofu puff). (6) Dong doufu (frozen tofu). (7) Doufugan or douganfresh tofu that has been rmly pressed to partly dehydrate it, and then is air dried. Chinese-style pressed tofu can be further processed to make... (8) Xun doufu (smoked tofu). (9) Wuxiang doufu [also called wuxiang doufugan] (ve-spiced tofu). (10) Pressed tofu can be soaked in brine and fermented to make chou doufu, which is usually referred to as smelly tofu but which Hsu and Hsu (1977, p. 301) translate as molded beancurd. (11) Tofu can also be fermented to make doufuru, or simply furu. (12) Okara is described (p. 106) as leavings or soybean dregs, or tofu lees. Note: This is the earliest English-language document seen (Oct. 2011) that contains the term smelly tofu. Photos show: (1) Person making tofu in a Yongchun village, Fujianltering. (2) Grinding unripe soybeans (maodou) for sale at a morning market in Kunming, Yunnan. (3) Soybean plants in between rice plots in a village in
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Ganluo Country, Sichuan. (4) Selling bean curd custard in Chengdu, Sichuan. Address: Chinese Univ. of Hong Kong, chair of the Dept. of Anthropology.. 746. Chiang, Cecilia; Weiss, Lisa. 2008. Seventh daughter: My culinary journey from Beijing to San Francisco. Berkeley, California: Ten Speed Press. x + 246 p. Foreword by Alice Waters. Introduction by Lisa Weiss. Illust. (mostly color photos). Index. 24 x 20 cm. [1 ref] Summary: Cecilia (Sun Yun) was born on 18 September 1920 in Wuxi, near Shanghai, Chinawhen her mother was age 38 and 17 years after the birth of her oldest sister. Cecilia was the 7th daughter in a family of ten children. In China, everyone considers themselves a year older on New Years day. Her mother, Sun Shueh Yun Hui, gave birth to twelve childrennine girls and three boysover the course of 24 years, but two did not survive. Her father, Sun Long Guang (unofcial or familiar name Yung Xiao), born in 1878, was a gentle, progressive, scholarly man who had been schooled in France in the early 20th century, after the overthrow of the Qing Dynasty in 1911. Like many intellectuals in his generation, he worked to bring Western liberal ideas and modernization to China. He retired from his engineering job with the railway at age 50 so he could tend the gardens he loved, listen to music, and read. He was unusual in having no concubines, and all in his family were proud of him for that. Her mother (whom she called Um-ma) had tiny, four-inch-long bound feet, which were very painful to her. Between ages 5 and 7, when her foot bones were still fairly sift and malleable, they were broken. The toes were folded down under the ball of the and the arch folded in half, then the whole food was wrapped tightly in gauze bandages so that it would essentially stop growing. The smaller the foot, the more desirable the woman, and thus the more marriageable she would be. It was an unbelievably lengthy and painful process, and often girls died from the resulting infection (p. 49). Cecilias father absolutely forbade the binding of his daughters feet. So they grew up being able to run, dance, play tennis and ice skate. Cecelia rode her bicycle daily to the Fu-Jen Catholic University. Cecilias mother tottered around the family home, overseeing the servants, nannies, and cooks. By the late 1930s in China, in all but the most rural areas, the custom of foot binding became a thing of the past (p. 50). When Cecilia was age 4, the whole family moved from Wuxi to Beijing, the capital of China. In those days it was very unusual for a family to move such a long distance, from one province to another. However, her parents were drawn to the capital because of its intellectual and cultural offerings. They moved into a huge walled compound with enormous red gates. It was an actual palace that took up an entire city block and had been built in the 16th century for a minister to one of the last emperors of the Ming dynasty. It had 52 rooms and six bathrooms in seven
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU parallel buildings (p. 50). The dining room was the most important room in their home that was where their family life took place. Her mother was so short, she needed to stand on a stool to see into the pots on the stove. Yet she ran the kitchen with absolute authority. Like all upper-class Chinese women of her time, she did not actually cook. She instructed her chefs as to how she wanted things done. This included making her own soy sauce, a few bottles of which contained shrimp roethough those are the ones she brought out only for special occasions (p. 51). Her mother was a perfectionist. They were served breakfast, typically rice congeea kind of rice porridgewith assorted condiments including sausage, dried sh, thousand-year eggs, vegetables pickled in jiang, and fermented bean curd [stinky tofu; chou doufu]. In 1937 the Japanese nally arrived at Beijing; the city had been bracing for their arrival since 1931 when they had invaded Manchuria. Almost overnight, food (including soy sauce and fresh dofu / tofu) became scarce and life became difcult. In 1940 the Japanese moved in and occupied their home, but let them stay in a small part of the building. Soon Cecilia and Teresa (sister #5, Qin) began to think about leaving Beijing for Chongqing (in Sichuan province), where Chiang Kai-shek had moved the nationalist government headquarters after the fall of Nanjing, his previous capital. In Jan. 1942 they ed in disguise for Free China, calling their adventure The Long Walk. After many amazing adventures, they arrived in Chongqing in June 1942. Soon she was seriously dating two men. She decided to marry the businessman, Chiang Liang. They were married in May 1945 in Chongqing. China was still divided by war. In China, the grooms family pays for the wedding. A few days after the Japanese surrender to the Allies on 15 Aug. 1945, her husband announced that he wanted them to move to Shanghai, so they took the scenic 1,500 mile trip up the Yangtze from Chongqing to Shanghai; it took them 2 weeks. 1946 JuneTheir rst child, a daughter named May, was born in Shanghai. At about this time, Chiang Kai-Shek moved the Nationalist capital back to Nanjing, which is close to Shanghai. The civil war with the Communists resumed. 1949 Jan.Communist forces capture Beijing. 1949 May 25Communist forces capture Shanghai, shortly after Cecilia, her husband, and the eldest of their two children have own to Tokyo (April 29), where they stayed at the Chinese Mission. But Cecilia was soon homesick for Chinese food. 1951 fallShe (with a small group of Chinese friends) opens a large (400-seat) Chinese restaurant in Tokyo named The Forbidden City; it was a huge success from the very beginning. 1960Cecilia moves to San Francisco from Tokyo and opens The Mandarin (for details see Chapter 1). 1961Her husband comes to check out her restaurant, then dismisses The Mandarin as insignicant; he had expected something
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much grander. She realized right then their marriage was over. 1962Her two children, Philip and May, come to live with her in San Francisco. The restaurant prospers and grows. 1968She moves The Mandarin to larger quarters at Ghirardelli Square; to do so she takes out a $750,000 personal loan. It opens in June 1968 with special little round cruets for soy sauce that looked like perfume bottles (p. 22). 1974Cecilia open The Mandarin in Beverly Hills. 1975 JulyCecilia travels to Beijing to visit her ailing father; it is their last visit. Cecilias Pantry (p. 5-7); soy-related items. Bean sauceMade from ground, salted, and fermented yellow soybeans mixed with seasonings. Black bean sauce A prepared sauce sold in a jar and made from salted black [soy] beans mixed with soy [sauce], salt, sugar,... Hoisin sauce This thick, sweet-spicy sauce, made from ground soybeans mixed with sugar, our, and vinegar,... Soy sauce: Cecilia likes the Lee Kum Kee band, but also uses Pear River Bridge mushroom soy sauce. which has a nice, rich, earthy avor. TofuAlso called dofu or bean curd. Of the various kinds, pressed tofu is often called seasoned. If you are unable to buy seasoned tofu [also called ve-spice pressed tofu, wuxiang doufu-gan], its easy to make your own at home; a recipe is given (p. 7). Soy-related recipes: Hot and sour soup (with rm tofu, suan la tang, p. 43). Tofu and spinach soup (bo cai dou fu tang, p. 58-59). Mapo dofu (p. 142). California congee with condiments (inc. fermented tofu; xi fan he xiao cai, p. 16061). Clams in black bean sauce (dou chi chao xian, p. 21011). Shrimp with edamame (mao dou chao xia ren, p. 235). Spinach with bean curd (bo cai ban dou fu, p. 237). Photos show: (A) Cecilia at The Mandarin at Ghirardelli Square (San Francisco, 1972, p. 8). (B) Cecilia and Number Six sister, Sophie, (Shanghai, China, 1947, p. 10). (C) Cecilia and husband, Chiang Liang (1945, p. 13). (D) Cecilia at The Mandarin on Polk Street, (San Francisco, 1964, p. 14). (1) Cecilia, age 12 (Beijing, 1932, p. 46). (2) A family photo [in 1942], with her mother, father, and all their children at their home in Beijing (p. 48). (3) Cecilias parents in 1928 in the courtyard of their home in Beijing (p. 68). This photo was found after Maos Red Guards destroyed the house. (4) Cecilia at The Mandarin at Ghirardelli Square, San Francisco, 1972. (4a) Cecelia [front row center] with two sisters and one brother (Beijing, 1928 [actually 1926]. p. 92. In back row left is sister no. 1; in back row right is a cousin). (5) Six sisters (numbers 3-8) at home in Beijing, 1940. (6) Cecilia and her sister, Teresa, 1940. (7) Cecilia and friend in 1944. (8) Wedding photo, Cecilia and Chiang Liang, Chongqing, China, 1945. (9) Cecilia and her husband at Nara National Park, Kyoto, Japan, 1952. (10) Cecilias father standing at doorway of Beijing home, late 1930s. (11) Cecilia with her father during her last visit with him in
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Beijing, 1975. (12) Cecilia and Alice Waters, Oct. 1981. (13) Cecilia and Julia Child, Italy, 1994. Address: San Francisco, California. 747. Farnworth, Edward R. 2008. Handbook of fermented functional foods. 2nd ed. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press. xviii + 581 p. See p. 333, 341-45. * Summary: Partial contents: Chapter 6. Natto: A soybean foods made by fermenting cooked soybeans with Bacillus subtilis. Chapter 11. Miso: Production, properties, benets to health. Chapter 12. Korean fermented foods: Kimchi and doenjang, by Jeonghee Surh, Young-Kyung Lee Kim, and Hoonjeong Kwon, has a long section on doenjang, including: Cancer: Epidemiology, anticarcinogenic and antimutagenic activities in vitro and animal models. Cardiovascular disease: Inhibition of angiotensin converting enzymes, antithrombotic peptides, isoavones. Chapter 17. Tempeh: A mold-modied indigenous fermented food. Two references to sufu (fermented tofu) appear on page 464. 748. Centraalbureau vor Schimmelcultures. 2009. CBS Fungal Biodiversity Centre (Website printoutpart). www. cbs.knaw.nl. Printed April 6. Summary: This culture collection organization is similar to the National Center for Agricultural Research Utilization (NCAUR) in Peoria, Illinois. Contents: Home (incl. current news, biodiversity). About CBS. Research. Collections. Databases (18). Publications. Service. Links. When we searched the 1st database, the Filamentous fungi database, it was very slow to load and to search. It contains data on more than 38,000 strains in the CBS collection, we got interesting results searching for: (1) Tempeh14 hits = records found. In each record, tempeh appears in the eld Substrate. The Taxon name (scientic name) of Rhizopus oligosporus has been changed to Rhizopus microsporus var. oligosporus (Saito) Schipper & Stalpers. In some records the name of the collector and date collected are given. Country and locality (where collected): Indonesia. Other organisms used to make tempeh are: Rhizopus oryzae Went & Prinsen Geerligs. Rhizopus stolonifer var. stolonifer. Cladosporium oxysporum Berkeley & M.A. Curtis. Rhizopus azygosporus G.F. Yuan & S.C. Jong. One culture typically costs 150 Euro (65.0 Euro for Academies, Universities, Education). (2) Rhizopus oligosporus: 5 hits. (3) Miso: 3 hits. One substrate was soy sauce and another was koji starter culture. The fungi were: Aspergillus oryzae var. oryzae. Aspergillus sojae Sakaguchi & K. Yamada ex Murakami. (4) Soy sauce: 13 hits. In addition to the two molds used
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to make miso, there was also: Aspergillus oryzae var. effusus (Tiraboschi) Y. Ohara. (5) Chinese cheese: No hits. (6) Fermented tofu: No hits. (7) Sufu: 9 hits. The molds used are: Mucor racemosus f. racemosus. Mucor indicus Lendner. Mucor hiemalis Wehmer. Actinomucor elegans (Eidam) C.R. Benjamin & Hesseltine. Mucor circinelloides f. circinelloides. Rhizopus microsporus var. microsporus Tieghem. (8) Douchi or doushi or doushih or dowsee or dowsi or toushih or tou-shih or fermented black beans or preserved black beans: No hits. (9) Aspergillus: 1,213 hits. (10) Soybeans: 1 hit. Substrate: Soybeans. Taxon name: Aspergillus wentii Wehmer. Country and locality: Indonesia, Java. (11) Soybean: 18 hits. Substrate is usually soil from soybean eld. Molds are Penicillium and Aspergillus species. (12) Koji: 36 hits. Molds: Aspergillus oryzae var. oryzae. Aspergillus oryzae var. brunneus Murakami. Aspergillus tamarii Kita. Rhizopus microsporus var. tuberosus R.Y. Zheng & G.Q. Chen (koji from China). Address: Utrecht, Netherlands. Phone: +31 (0)30 212-2600. 749. Chiang, Cecilia Sun Yun. 2009. Stinky tofu (pinyin: chou doufu; W.-G. chou toufu) in Chinese food culture (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. Nov. 21. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. Summary: Cecilia (Sun Yun) was born on 18 September 1920 in Wuxi, near Shanghai, China. When she was age 4, she moved with her family to Beijing, where she grew up in Beijing, the seventh daughter among 10 children in a very wealthy family. There was a shop in Beijing near her family home that had been making stinky doufu for about 100 years. It is now in the 4th generation. She thinks stinky doufu originated in Beijing, but she is not sure. She has also tasted it many times more recently in Taiwan. Stinky tofu is dark gray in color, which is not very appetising. And it has a very strong odor, which smells up the whole room in which it is served. When she was a child, her family would store it in their ice box after buying it. She knows of two types of stinky tofu: Regular (chou doufu) and spicy (la chou doufu). At her home, and she thinks throughout China, it was always served as a seasoning for congee / rice porridge (shifan, or zhou in Cantonese) for breakfast only. It was served in its own small dish next to the bowl of congee so each person could use it to season the congee as he or she wished. Other seasonings included jiang cai (vegetables pickled in jiang). She thinks young people in China do not like or consume stinky tofu as much today as several generations ago. Address: Former owner, The Mandarin restaurant,
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Ghirardelli Square, San Francisco, California. 750. Lewis, Lynn. ed. 2009. Food of Asia: a journey for food lovers. Sydney, Australia: Murdoch Books. 504 p. Illust. Index. * Summary: The Glossary of Asian food and cooking (p. 492+) includes an entry for fermented tofu (p. 494). It is sometimes called preserved tofu or tofu cheese and is used as a condiment or avouring. 751. Nguyen, Andrea. 2010. Re: Types of tofu and yuba in Vietnam. Letter (e-mail) to William Shurtleff at Soyinfo Center, May 1. 1 p. Summary: If you go to a Lo Dau Hu (Viet tofu shop) in the United States, the most common types of tofu youd nd are: (1) Dau hu/dau phu: block/regular tofu (2) Dau hu chien: fried regular tofu (in pieces). (3) Fried tofu with stuff suspended in it (e.g., wood ear mushroom and glass noodles) thats similar to the Japanese approach to making gomoku dofu. (4) Che dau hu: Soft tofu to be served with sugar and ginger syrup. Yuba (tofu skin): At Vietnamese restaurants, you sometimes get a side dish of tofu skin rolls made from Tau hu ky [pronounced tau hu kay], the Vietnamese name of yuba. In Vietnam, fermented tofu is named chao. Note: One popular Vietnamese yuba recipe is Com tam tau hu ky suon bi (Broken rice with yuba wrapped shrimp, pork chop, and pork skin). A detailed recipe can be found on the Web under its Vietnamese name. Even though this dish originally arose from a culture of povertythe Vietnamese rice farmers couldnt sell the broken grains of rice so they used it for themselvestoday, you can nd this dish served in almost every Vietnamese restaurant due to the simplicity as well as the variety of toppings available,... Other Vietnamese yuba recipes on the Web include: (1) Tom tau hu ky (Vietnamese shrimp paste wrapped in yuba). Fresh yuba is wrapped around a spoonful of shrimp paste, then the packet is deep fried. (2) Com tam suong nuong tau hu ky (Broken rice with pork and shrimp cake wrapped in yuba). Address: vietworldkitchen.com, California. 752. Nguyen, Hoang Quoc. 2010. Re: Soyfoods and soybeans in Vietnam. Letters (e-mails) to William Shurtleff at Soyinfo Center, May 4-12. 1 p. each. Summary: Mr. Nguyen is the father of Andrea Nguyen, author of Into the Vietnamese Kitchen (2006, Ten Speed Press) and was kindly introduced to Soyinfo Center by Andrea, who is now writing a book about tofu in Asia. Mr. Nguyen was born and raised in Vietnam, and lived there with his wife and family until April 1975 when he ed to the USA just before the fall of Saigon and the American defeat in what Vietnamese call the American War. He was governor and military sector commander of two
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provinces in the Mekong Delta of Vietnam (Vinh Binh {now called Tra Vinh} from 1956, and Kien Phong {now called Dong Thap Muoi} from 1956-1960), and of Binh Thuan, in the south of central Vietnam, from 1960-1963. While he is not a specialist in Vietnamese food, he knows as much about it (or more) as the typical person born and raised in that country. Question: Do Vietnamese eat soybeans as a green vegetable (green vegetable soybeans, edamam)? Ans: No, and there is no specic name for them. Question: Please tell me about soymilk in Vietnam. Ans: Its name in Vietnamese is sua dau nanh (with diacritical marks). It was very popular, but mostly in the cities (as we were in Viet Nam before 1975). Dont know exactly at the present time. Use it at breakfast or at any time during the day as a beverage. It is sold in a plastic container, at tofu shops or at marketplaces. Nobody made it at home at our time in Viet Nam (before 1975). But soybean milk machines are now on the market at non-expensive prices. Probably some people are making it at home for freshness. It is typically served sweetened or plain; not salty. It has a fairly long history. Its popularity is increasing with the propagation of the soybeans benets. Question: Please tell me about yuba (the lm that forms atop soymilk when it is heated) in Vietnam. It is often called beancurd skin or (when dried) beancurd sticks in Vietnamese cookbooks. Ans: It is called phu chuc (dried rolled yuba; dried rolled yuba sticks; fuchu or fu zu in Chinese) in north Viet Nam, and tau hu ky in south Viet Nam. Fresh dry yuba is tau hu ky tuoi (it needs to be frozen or refrigerated and thawed before using) and regular dry yuba is tau hu ky kho. All Vietnamese (north, center, and south) use only one language but there are differences in tone and accent in pronunciation, and also in the naming of some things and objects. The phonetic adaptation from Chinese or French words are also different, it may be the reason of Tau Hu Ky for Fu Pi and Phu Chuc for Fu Zu. Yuba is very popular, used in households, market stalls, and restaurantsespecially in place of meat in vegetarian dishes and diets (inuenced by Buddhism). It is sold in dry form, either unfried or fried, in a package at any market place. It is made only by special factories of Chinese origin. It is served as a wrapper for shrimp or meat, then fried. Also in soupfried and served with broken steamed rice, and many other dishes at home and restaurants from selected to street corners. It is especially useful in the preparation of vegetarian dishes as a substitute for real meat. In one popular dish (called Chan Thien Ky), tau hu ky [yuba] is wrapped around minced shrimp to make a little packet, which is deep-fried; it is somewhat like the Cantonese dim sum item of shrimp in tofu skin but Viet people commonly serve it as a side dish on rice plates. Another popular yuba recipe in Vietnam is Com Tam Tau Hu Ky Suon Bi (Broken rice with yuba wrapped around shrimp, pork chop, and pork skin).
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Note: A Google search for tau hu ky will bring up many other recipes, images, and videos in Vietnamese and English. Yuba has a long history in Viet Nam, being introduced along with Chinese cuisine. Today its use is increasing along with the demand for new recipes and awareness of the benets of consuming foods made from soybeans. Yet it is still not an item in everyday meals, but is reserved for special occasions, whether at home, in a restaurant, or at parties. Question: When the French divided todays Vietnam into Tonkin (north), Annam (middle) and Cochinchina (south), were there any cultural or language differences between the three? Were the divisions based on these cultural and language differences or not? Ans: No major difference in culture or language existed between the three regions at that time. The French made the division just for more efciency and convenience in their colonization of Viet Nam. The French split Viet Nam up into many areas with different administrative systems so as to maintain the division, in order to make their occupation more efcient [and to try to prevent or limit the growth of nationalist or resistance movements]. Question: Please tell me about soybean cultivation in Vietnam. Ans: At this present time, because of the huge demand of soybean for edible oil and meal or cake for animal feeds, milk for human consumption, large areas in the South (east and west parts) are being used for cultivation of soybean. Production in the North and Central regions, due to limitation of available lands, may be sufcient only for regional production of Tuong and Tofu. Five different kinds of seeds are being introduced and tested and yield/ha are much better. Areas in the south-west (Mekong delta) will produce 3 crops per year. For centuries soybeans have been cultivated in Viet Nam. Before the vegetable oil from soybean was introduced, each region produced what people need for daily consumption. This has been changed completely because of the demand for soybean oil, milk, sub-products for animal feeds. Soybeans are cultivated along the hillsides or high level areas not submerged by water, or in between the rice crops seasons. In the south western region (Mekong delta) where the eld is submerged under the water every year for 4 months, farmers can now plant soybean after the rice crop harvest. They burn the hay, make holes and put the seeds down, cover with hay, let it grow, fertilize (chemical), use pesticides and herbicides. After 75-82 days they can harvest (still by hand), or use a machine to pull out the beans, then dry them. Viet Nam is presently divided into 62 provinces and towns; soybean is planted in 43 of them. At the present time, no information is available about large size farms using complete machinery like in the USA, but an area like the Mekong Delta may open up and introduce this kind of large farming process. The highlands in Viet Nam offer tremendous opportunities for development of modern
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farming (mechanized) but require enormous investments in knowledge, experience, and quick exibility of action and funds. A state economy system cannot afford to let that happen, I would say. Viet Nam still has to import 400,000 to 500,000 tons of soybean every year from China, Kampuchea [Cambodia], Thailand, Canada and the USA. Today, soybeans are most widely used as a food in the south of Vietnam. My estimate of the amount of soybeans used in traditional foods (in descending order of popularity) is: Tofu, soy milk, tuong (a thick fermented soy sauce), chao (fermented tofu), soy sauce (liquid), tau hu ky (yuba). Additional remarks: Tuong should be considered in this study, as tuong is a sauce made and used only in Viet Nam. It is made from rice and soybean, plus salt, in a very delicate way, serving as sauce for eating and cooking. Long ago the northern Viet term for soybeans was dou, as in Chinese. But soybeans were also called dou tuong because they were so widely used in Vietnam to produce the popular fermented sauce tuong. Thats why today the Vietnamese term for soy sauce is either nuoc tuong [sauce + tuong; a lingering reference] or xi dau, from the Cantonese phonetic. All the Vietnamese (old generation, of north and center origin) living in the US, miss tuong very much as the Tuong Cu Da being sold in the market places here is not the real thingin terms of composition, taste and avor. The three best kinds of Tuong are: (1) Tuong Cu Da. (2) Tuong Ban, in north Viet Nam, and (3) Tuong Nam Dan, in Nghe An (central Viet Nam). Note: Andrea adds: These are really cool tuong sauces! Address: San Clemente, California. 753. Yasuda, Masaaki. 2010. Daizu hakko shokuhin [tofuyo] ni kansuru shokuhin kagakuteki kenkyu [Scientic aspects of the fermented soybean food, tofuyo]. Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogaku Kaishi (J. of the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology) 57(5):181-90. May. [56 ref. Jap; eng] Summary: The subtitle of this article reads (in Japanese): (Heisei 21 nendo Nippon Shokuhin Kagaku Kogakukai Sho). This means that in 2009 this article won an award from the Japanese Society for Food Science and Technology. Tofuyo is a type of low-salt fermented tofu. This study describes the chemical characteristics of tofuyo and the role of molds of the genus Monascus in its production. The tofuyo fermentation process is unique in that its soybean proteins undergo limited hydrolysis by proteinases [enzymes that break down protein] in the presence of ethyl alcohol which originates from awamori. Note: Awamori is Okinawan distilled liquor; it is made from Thai-style long-grained Indica rice and black koji mold, indigenous to Okinawa; after distillation it is often aged like whiskey.
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU The main constituents of tofuyo are basic subunits of glycinin and polypeptides. During maturation, the soy proteins in tofuyo are digested into peptides and amino acids. The amount of free glutamic acid and aspartic acid are strongly correlated to the good taste (umami-taste) of tofuyo. Address: Dep. of Bioscience and Biotechnology, Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, 1 Senbaru, Nishihara-cho, Okinawa 903-0213, Japan. 754. Tamang, Jyoti Prakash. 2010. Himalayan fermented foods: Microbiology, nutrition, and ethnic values. Boca Raton, Florida: CRC Press. xix + 295 p. See p. 65-78. 23031, 233. Illust. 25 cm. [584 ref] Summary: This is a very interesting, original, well researched and well written book. It is also the best source of detailed, well documented information on kinema and its close relatives seen to date. The word Sanskrit word Himalayas means literally abode of the snows. This region is the home of over 65 million people. Those in the eastern Himalayas are of Mongolian ethnicity and ancestry. Chapter 3, titled Fermented legumes, includes a section titled 3.1 Important fermented soybean foods which states (p. 65): Some of the common ethnic nonsalted sticky fermented soybean foods of the eastern Himalayas are kinema (Nepal, Darjeeling hills, Sikkim, and South Bhutan), hawaijar (Manipur), tungrymbai (Meghalaya; food of the Khasi and Garo peoples), bekang (Mizoram; food of the Mizo people), aakhone (also called axone, Nagaland; food of the Sema Naga), and peruyyan (Arunachal Pradesh). Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, and Arunachal Pradesh are small states in northeastern India. All of these foods are similar to kinema. For all these six foods is given: The name of the food, a close-up photo of the food, indigenous knowledge of preparation, a ow chart showing the indigenous method of making the food, culinary practices (how the food is prepared / cooked and eaten), economy (its role in the local economy), microorganisms (dominant and secondary). Section 3.3 is Microbiology (of fermented legumes): Kinema (microorganisms, source of inoculation in kinema production optimization of fermentation period, in situ fermentation of kinema, selection of starter culture, monoculture fermentation of kinema, development of pulverized starter for kinema production, phylogenetic similarity of Bacillus strains from Asian fermented soybeans), other fermented soybean foods of north east India. Section 3.4 is Nutritive value (table 3.1 compares the nutritional composition of raw soybean and kinema). And section 3.5 is Conclusion. The long and very interesting section (9.1.1) on the Antiquity of kinema (p. 230-34) states that it is a food of the Kirat ethnic group (to which the Limboo belong)
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of eastern Nepal. The origin of the word kinema can be traced back to the word kinaba of the Limboo language (ki = fermented; namba = avor). It is not clear whether kinema appeared rst, then was disseminated and diversied, or vice versa. The Limboo believe that their discovery and domestication of the soybean (which they named chembi) in mentioned in one of their oral myths, as explained. Kinema is made by fermenting whole soybeans, without inoculation, with strains of Bacillus subtilis bacteria. It is alkaline in nature / pH, has a sticky, stringy texture and a strong avor. Natto is believed to have been introduced to Japan from China during the Nara period around 710-714 AD (Ito et al. 1996; Kiuchi 2001). Kinema might have originated in east Nepal around 600 B.C. to 100 A.D. during the Kirat dynasty. Products closely resembling kinema are popular foods in many non-Brahmin communities in the eastern Himalayas. The Lepcha [the aboriginal inhabitants of todays Sikkim] call it satlyangser; the Tibetans and Bhutia [of Bhutan and Sikkim] call it bari; the Khasi [of Meghalaya] call it tungrymbai; the Meitei [of Manipur] call it hawaijar; the Mizo [of Mizoram] call it bekang; the Sema Naga [of Nagaland] call it aakhone; and the Apatani [of Arunachal Pradesh] call it peruyyan. Soybean products closely resembling kinema outside of the Himalaya region are natto of Japan, chungkokjang of Korea, and thua-nao of Thailand [From Google Books Preview]. Dr. Sasuke Nakao (1972) coined the term natto triangle, but Tamang proposes that the hypothetical triangle be renamed KinemaNattoThua-nao triangle (or KNT triangle). An illustration / map (Fig. 9.1) shows this triangle with Japan, Nepal-India-Bhutan, and Thailand at its three angles; it also includes chungkokjang (Korea), pepok (Myanmar), sieng (Thailand), and douche [douchi] from south China. These mildly alkaline, sticky fermented foods are popular among the peoples of Mongolian origin. This may be due to their typical avor called umami (Kawamura and Kara 1987). This avor is developed during the hydrolysis of soy protein (by protease enzymes) into amino acids during fermentation. Have people of Mongolian origin evolved or developed particular senses which inclines them to enjoy the umami avor? In the eastern Himalayas green vegetable soybeans are also boiled and eaten. Section 10.3, Commercialization through ethnic food tourism, suggests that just a tourists visit the vineyards of France, tempeh shops in Indonesia, and artisans or factories that make shoyu or sake in Japan, there are potential tourist sites for experiencing how traditional foods are made in the Himalayan villages. For kinema, try visiting Aho village in Sikkim. About the author (p. xix): A good biography and portrait photo are given. In the Acknowledgments (p. xvii) he writes: I am thankful to my wife Dr. Namrata
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Thapa for constant support and technical assistance in the preparation of this book. Over the past 16 years the team of brilliant Ph.D. students that I have recruited from the Food Microbiology Laboratory, Sikkim Government College, Gangtok, has been the real driving force in researching and identifying the scientic mechanisms of ethnic Himalayan fermented foods. He then lists their names. Address: Food Microbiology Lab., Sikkim Government College, Gangtok, Sikkim 737 102, India. 755. Tom, Lawrence; Tom, Brian. 2010. Sacramentos Chinatown. Charleston, South Carolina; Chicago, Illinois; Portsmouth, New Hampshire; San Francisco, California: Arcadia Publishing. 128 p. * Summary: On page 33 is an English version of the menu for the Sun Sun Caf [at 307 J St., Sacramento] in the 1950s. Since Sacramento had a relatively large Chinese-speaking community, there was also a Chinese version of the menu available. Under Special suggestions, the menu includes Fried spare ribs with black bean sauce. Fried spare ribs with Chinese cheese. Bean cake [probably tofu] with pork. Address: American Museum of Northern California Chinese. 756. Ng, Tzi Bun. 2011. SoybeanBiochemistry, chemistry and physiology. Rijeka, Croatia: InTech. 642 p. Free, open access online publication. 757. Yasuda, Masaaki. 2011. Fermented tofu, tofuyo. In: Tzi Bun Ng, ed. 2011. SoybeanBiochemistry, Chemistry and Physiology. Rijeka, Croatia: InTech. 642 p. See p. 299322. Free, open access online publication. http:// www. intechopen.com/ source/pdfs/ 15715/InTech- Fermented_ tofu_ tofuyo.pdf [54 ref. Eng] Summary: Contents: Introduction. History of tofuyo: History of fermented tofu, history of tofuyo. Production of tofuyo (3-step process): Processes for making tofu and dehydrated tofu-cubes, processes for making rice koji, soaking and ripening. Characterization of tofuyo: Chemical changes in tofuyo during the ripening period, physical changes in tofuyo during the ripening period, the avor compounds in tofuyo, the physiologically functional properties of tofuyo (angiotensin I-converting enzyme inhibitory peptides in tofuyo, antihypertensive and hypocholesterolemic effects of tofuyo in spontaneously hypertensive rats, effect of tofuyo on erythrocyte deformability in high-fat-fed mice and other bioactivities). Microbial biochemistry in tofuyo production: Characterization and application of aspartic proteinases from Monascus fungus, characterization and application of serine carboxypeptidases from genus Monascus, characterization of glucoamylases from genus Monascus. Conclusions. Address: Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Okinawa pref., Japan.
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758. Yasuda, Masaaki. 2011. Fermented tofu, tofuyo: History of fermented tofu (Document part). In: Tzi Bun Ng, ed. 2011. SoybeanBiochemistry, Chemistry and Physiology. Rijeka, Croatia: InTech. 642 p. See p. 301-02. Free, open access online publication. http:// www.intechopen.com/ source/pdfs/ 15715/InTech- Fermented_tofu_ tofuyo.pdf [Eng] Summary: Fermented tofu is considered to have originated in China; however, the exact time and place of its origin remain uncertain. Hong (1985) reported that the rst description concerning fermented tofu was found in Peng Long Ye Hua written by Li Ri-Hua in the Ming dynasty (1368-1644), where it was prepared with molded tofu. Reference to furu appeared in the famous book on Chinese medicinal and herbal materials, Pen Tsao Kang Mu (Honzo Kou Moku, in Japanese) published by Li Shih-Chen in 1596. In this book, furu was prepared without the molding procedure. From these old records, it appears that there were two techniques involved in furu production, treatment with and without mold. Although the name rufu appears in the section of animals of this book, it is not fermented tofu, but refers to milk-curd, which is produced from the coagulation of protein in milk under acidic conditions. During the Ching dynasty (1644-1912), many records on fermented tofu production appeared, indicating that the molding procedure had become mainstream. The making of fermented tofu with the molding procedure is described in the book, Shi Xian Hong Mi written by Wang Zi-Zhen, in the middle of the Kang-Xi period (1681-1706). Interestingly, the author found that the fermented tofu was made with the red koji [beni-koji] in this record. From this description, it is strongly suggested that the origin of tofuyo is the fermented tofu described herein. References to rufu often appear in documents of that time. Rufu seemed to be one of the nest products in the district of Jiang Nan, China, and was introduced in a kind of guidebook on local production, Jiang Nan Tong Zhi (1736). In this record, rufu was not milk-curd, but fermented tofu. It was revealed that the methods of making fermented tofu recorded in Xing Yuan Lu written by Li Shi-Ting in the middle of the Quianlong period (1757-1776) are similar to present-day methods. Fermented tofu, rufu, was also described in Sui Yuan Shi Dan written by Yuan Mei (1782), and the white type of rufu (containing shrimp eggs) or famous production sites, and other aspects, were introduced in this document. From a variety of literature, it can be concluded that the development and spread of fermented tofu occurred in the Ching dynasty, and became popular in the diets of people in mainland China and Taiwan, and continues to be enjoyed even today. As the Chinese fermented tofu spread to other countries in East and Southeast Asia, it was given its own name in each country, as described in the Introduction. From that time to the present, the fermented tofu of each country has been traditionally made in the home or small cottage industries. Address:
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU Faculty of Agriculture, Univ. of the Ryukyus, Okinawa pref., Japan. 759. Nabozny, James. 2011. Tofuyo, Okinawan fermented tofu (Interview). SoyaScan Notes. April 13. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. Summary: James lived on Okinawa Island for a total of 14 years as a U.S. Marine. Tofuyo is made on many of the Okinawa Islands and the Ryukyu Islands of Japan. He has tasted several different varieties of tofuyo on the island of Ishikawa, a tiny inhabited island south of Okinawa in the archipelago, which almost no outsiders visit. The people and culture there are very traditionalas from a bygone era. The tofu there is curded using seawater and is very deliciousas is the unique tofuyo. Address: Tucson, Arizona. 760. SoyaScan Notes.2011. Updated USDA database on the isoavone levels in foods, commercial ingredients, soybeans and soyfoods (Overview). June 24. Conducted by William Shurtleff of Soyfoods Center. [1 ref] Summary: The link is now http://www.ars. usda.gov/ SP2UserFiles/ Place/12354500/ Data/isoav/ Isoav_ R2.pdf. Legumes and legume products starts on p. 16. Start by going to page 24, which is where the soy section begins. Then you can do a PDF search for fermented soyfoods such as: Tempeh, miso, soy sauce, natto, or Sufu (fermented tofu)and you will see that they are NOT lower in total (or specic isoavones) than nonfermented soyfoods such as: Tofu, soymilk soybeans (immature), soybeans (mature), etc. 761. Worlds 50 most delicious foods (Web article). 2011. http:// www.cnngo.com/ explorations/ eat/worlds- 50-mostdelicious- foods-067535. July 21. 3 p. Summary: No. 41 is Stinky tofu, Southeast Asia. So is the legendarily divine taste really worth the effort? Sure it is. 762. Spots. 2011 - near front of book. Summary: (a) Soy nuggets. (b) Red fermented tofu. (c) White fermented tofu. (e) Fermented tofu in jar (Beancurd preserved). (g) Fermented tofu (b-c, e, h-s). Fermented tofu. (t-y) Tofuyo. (Source: Wikipedia). 763. SoyaScan Notes.2011. Chronology of tofu worldwide965 A.D. to 1929. Part I. Compiled by William Shurtleff of Soyinfo Center. Summary: 965 A.D.Tofu is rst mentioned in China in a document, the Qing Yilu (Wade-Giles: Ching I Lu) [Anecdotes, Simple and Exotic], by Tao Ku. It states: In the daily market were several catties of doufu. People of the region called doufu the vice mayors mutton. It goes on to tell the story of a vice mayor named Jishu, who was so poor that he couldnt afford to buy mutton. Instead he bought a few pieces of tofu every day and ate them as a side
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dish with rice. Soon people in the area came to call tofu the vice mayors mutton. The story implies that tofu was widely consumed in China in those days and that it was less expensive than mutton. 1183 A.D.Tofu is rst mentioned in Japan in the diary of Hiroshige NAKAOMI, a Shinto priest of the shrine at Nara; the tofu was used as an offering at the shrines altar. 1489The word tofu is rst written in Japan with the characters used today. 1603The word tofu is rst mentioned in a Europeanlanguage (Portuguese) document, Vocabulario da lingoa de Iapam... [Vocabulary of the language of Japan], the earliest dictionary of the Japanese language compiled by Europeans (Jesuits living in Nagasaki, Japan). Tofu is referred to as Cabe, Tfu, or Taufu. 1613The word tofu is rst referred to (though indirectly) for the second time by a Westerner, Captain John Saris, in the log of his trip to Japan. He wrote Of Cheese [probably tofu] they haue plentie. Butter they make none, neither will they eate any Milke, because they hold it to bee as bloud [blood], nor tame beasts. This is the earliest English-language document that mentions tofu in connection with Japan. 1665Tofu is rst mentioned specically by a Westerner, Domingo Fernndez de Navarrete, in his book A Collection of Voyages and Travels. Navarrete, who served as a Dominican missionary in China, wrote: Before I proceed to the next chapter, because I forgot it in the rst book, I will here briey mention the most usual, common and cheap sort of food all China abounds in, and which all men in that empire eat, from the emperor to the meanest Chinese, the emperor and great men as a dainty, the common sort as necessary sustenance. It is calld teu fu, that is, paste of kidney-beans. I did not see how they made it. They draw the milk out of the kidney-beans, and turning it, make great cakes of it like cheeses, as big as a large sieve, and ve or six ngers thick. All the mass is as white as the very snow, to look to nothing can be ner. It is eaten raw, but generally boild and dressed with herbs, sh, and other things. Alone it is insipid, but very good so dressed and excellent fryd in butter. They have it also dryd and smokd, and mixd with caraway-seeds, which is best of all. It is incredible what vast quantities of it are consumd in China, and very hard to conceive there should be such abundance of kidney-beans. That Chinese who has teu fu, herbs and rice, needs no other sustenance to work; and I think there is no body but has it, because they may have a pound (which is above twenty ounces) of it any where for a half-penny. It is a great help in case of want, and is good for carriage. It has one good quality, which is, that it causes the different airs and seasons, which in that vast region vary much, to make no alteration in the body, and therefore they that travel from one province to another make use of it. Teu fu is one of the most remarkable things in China, there are many will leave pullets for it. If I
HISTORY OF FERMENTED TOFU am not deceivd, the Chineses of Manila [Philippines] make it, but no European eats it, which is perhaps because they have not tasted it, no more than they do fritters fryd in oil of Ajonjoli ([sesame seed] a very small seed they have in Spain and India, which we have not) which the Chineses make in that city and is an extraordinary dainty. 1704Friar Domingo Navarretes book is published in English. This is the earliest English-language document that mentions tofu in connection with China. 1770 Jan. 3James Flint in Capringe writes Benjamin Franklin in London (in response to an inquiry from Franklin) a detailed description of how the Chinese convert Callivances into Towfu (soybeans into tofu). 1770 Jan. 11The earliest document seen in which an American mentions tofu is a letter written by the famous Benjamin Franklin (who was in London) to John Bartram in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania. He sent Bartram some soybeans (which he called Chinese caravances) and with them he sent Father Navarretes account of the universal use of a cheese made of them in China, which so excited my curiosity, that I caused enquiry to be made of Mr. [James] Flint, who lived many years there, in what manner the cheese was made, and I send you his answer. I have since learned that some runnings of salt (I suppose runnet) is put into water, when the meal is in it, to turn it to curds. 1821The second earliest reference seen to tofu in America, and the rst to be published in the USA, appeared when A.F.M. Willich of Philadelphia mentioned it in The Domestic Encyclopedia. Speaking of soybeans (which he called the seeds of the Chinese plant Dolichos soja), he wrote: These seeds are used in China and Japan as food; they are made into a kind of jelly or curd, which is esteemed very nutritious, and which is rendered palatable by seasonings of different kinds. 1870 Dec.The term Bean curd is rst used by Emil V. Bretschneider, writing in English in the Chinese Recorder and Missionary Journal (Foochow, p. 173). He said: Beancurd is one of the most important articles of food in China. Then he gave an accurate description of how it was made. 1880Tofu is rst made in Europe by Paillieux, in France, for the Society for Acclimatization (but not on a commercial scale). 1878The earliest tofu company in the USA, Wo Sing & Co., is in business at 708 Dupont St. in San Francisco, making both fermented and regular tofu. 1895Hirata & Co. in Sacramento, California, the earliest known Japanese-American company in the USA, starts making tofu. 1896 JuneTofu rst appears in print in an American scientic journal (American Journal of Pharmacy), in an article by Henry Trimble, a pharmacist, titled Recent Literature on the Soja Bean. 1906Quong Hop & Co., the oldest existing tofu maker in America today, starts making tofu in San Francisco,
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California. 1910Europes rst commercial soyfoods manufacturer, named Caso-Sojane, is founded by Li Yu-ying, a Chinese citizen, biologist and engineer, at 46-48 Rue Denis Papin, Les Valles, Colombes (near Asnires), a few miles northwest of Paris. By May 1911 he was making and selling tofu, and by August 1911 he had added smoked tofu, pressed tofu sheets, fermented tofu cheese (in Gruyere, Roquefort, and Camembert avors), and soymilk. 1923The two oldest existing Japanese-American tofu companies (House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. of Los Angeles and Aala Tofu Co. of Honolulu) are founded in Hawaii. They both began as H. Iwanaga Daufu at 1031 Aala St. in Honolulu. In 1926 the company was renamed Shoshiro Kanehori Tofu, and in 1937 Haruko Uyeda Tofu, still at the same address. In about 1939 the company was purchased by Mr. and Mrs. Shokin Yamauchi, who later renamed it Aala Tofu Co. Their son, Shoan Yamauchi, made tofu at the family company until 1946, when he went to Los Angeles, purchased the Hinode Tofu Co., and began making tofu there in 1947. After becoming Matsuda-Hinode Tofu Co. in 1963, the company was renamed House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. in 1983. 1929 Nov.T.A. Van Gundy, a Seventh-day Adventist and founder of La Sierra Industries in Arlington, California (near Riverside), becomes the rst Westerner to make tofu commercially when he introduces La Sierra Soya Cheese. This tofu was canned and pimiento was added to prevent graying after canning. Continued.
An asterisk (*) at the end of the record means that SOYFOODS CENTER does not own that document. A plus after eng (eng+) means that SOYFOODS CENTER has done a partial or complete translation into English of that document. An asterisk in a listing of number of references [23* ref] means that most of these references are not about soybeans or soyfoods.
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AfricaIntroduction of Soybeans to. Earliest document seen concerning the cultivation of soybeans in a certain African country. 142 AfricaIntroduction of Soybeans to. This document contains the earliest date seen for soybeans in a certain African country. 142 AfricaIntroduction of Soybeans to. This document contains the earliest date seen for the cultivation of soybeans in a certain African country. 142 AfricaKenya (British East Africa Protectorate from 1895. Renamed Kenya Protectorate in 1920). 346, 376 AfricaLibya (Including Tripoli, Tripolitania, and Cyrenaica; Also Spelled Libia). 142 AfricaMadagascar (Malagasy Republic or Republique Malgache before 1975). 142 AfricaMauritius (Ile Maurice, Including Rodriguez, in the Mascarene Islands, 450 Miles East of Madagascar). 98, 142 AfricaMorocco, Kingdom of (Including Western Sahara. Divided into French Morocco and Spanish Morocco from 1912-1956). 142, 346, 376 AfricaNigeria, Federal Republic of. 98, 192, 346, 376
AfricaSouth Africa, Republic of (Including four former HomelandsBophuthatswana, Transkei, Venda, and Ciskei). Named Union of South Africa from May 1910 to May 1961. 98, 142, 272, 287, 592, 605 AfricaSudan (Anglo-Egyptian Sudan from 1899-1956). 142 AfricaTanzania, United Republic of (Formed the Bulk of German East Africa 1895-1946. Tanganyika existed 1920-1961. Created in 1964 by Merger of Tanganyika and Zanzibar). 346, 376 AfricaTunisia. 142 AfricaUganda. 346, 376 AfricaZimbabwe (Southern Rhodesia from 1923-1970, Rhodesia from 1970-79). 142 Agricultural Chemistry and Engineering, Bureau. See United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)Bureau of Agricultural and Industrial Chemistry Agricultural Experiment Stations in the United States. 288, 364, 365, 394, 566, 597 Agricultural Research Service of USDA. See United States
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American Soybean Association (ASA)Funding and Fundraising Before Checkoff Program or 1971. Voluntary or from USDA (FAS or ARS). 207 American Soybean Association (ASA)State Soybean Associations and United Soybean BoardActivities Related to Food Uses of Soybeans / Soyfoods, or Soy Nutrition, in the United States (Not Including Soy Oil or Edible Oil Products). 141 American Soybean Association (ASA) or United Soybean Board Activities Related to Food Uses of Soybeans / Soyfoods, or Soy Nutrition, Outside the United States (Not Including Soy Oil). 207, 480, 509, 515, 517, 583 Amino Acids and Amino Acid Composition and Content. See also NutritionProtein Quality; Soy Sauce, HVP Type. 215, 305, 319, 356, 467, 473, 521, 622, 653, 696 Anatomy, soybean. See SoybeanMorphology, Structure, and Anatomy Ang-kak or angkak. See Koji, Red Rice Ang-kak. See Koji, Red Rice Antinutritional Factors (General). See also: Allergens, Estrogens, Goitrogens, Hemagglutinins (Lectins), Trypsin / Protease Inhibitors. See also: Phytic Acid. 233, 274, 299, 305, 371, 440, 455, 588, 622, 623 Antioxidants and Antioxidant Activity (Especially in Soybeans and Soyfoods). 622 APV Systems, Soya Technology Division. Named Danish Turnkey Dairies Ltd., Soya Technology Division until 1987 (Aarhus, Denmark; DTD / STS). 616 Archer Daniels Midland Co. (ADM) (Decatur, Illinois; Minneapolis, Minnesota until 1969). 141, 331, 340, 354, 444, 480, 520, 598, 630, 650 Argentina. See Latin America, South AmericaArgentina Arkady, British. See British Arkady Co. Ltd. Arlington Experimental Farm. See United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)Arlington Experimental Farm Asia (General, Including East, Southeast, South, Middle East, and Central). 625, 629, 670, 761
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Asia, East (General). 109, 171, 266, 297, 320, 332, 342, 352, 361, 364, 408, 439, 515, 517, 526, 543, 566, 567, 580, 584, 608, 609, 669, 676, 686, 710 Asia, EastChina (Peoples Republic of China; Including Tibet. Zhonghua Renmin Gonghe Guo). 1, 2, 3, 4, 6, 9, 10, 11, 13, 14, 16, 17, 19, 20, 24, 25, 28, 31, 32, 33, 34, 36, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 49, 52, 53, 54, 57, 58, 59, 61, 63, 67, 68, 69, 70, 72, 73, 74, 76, 83, 84, 85, 88, 89, 90, 91, 93, 94, 97, 98, 99, 100, 102, 103, 104, 105, 106, 107, 108, 110, 111, 112, 113, 115, 117, 119, 120, 121, 122, 123, 124, 125, 127, 128, 131, 133, 134, 138, 141, 142, 143, 150, 154, 157, 162, 165, 167, 168, 169, 172, 174, 176, 177, 178, 179, 180, 181, 184, 198, 201, 203, 205, 208, 210, 217, 219, 222, 226, 229, 230, 231, 232, 234, 235, 243, 248, 258, 263, 264, 267, 268, 276, 291, 304, 312, 314, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 326, 328, 329, 330, 331, 337, 344, 349, 354, 355, 356, 372, 374, 375, 376, 377, 383, 384, 385, 386, 387, 391, 398, 399, 400, 409, 411, 420, 421, 423, 424, 429, 430, 433, 434, 440, 441, 443, 451, 456, 460, 461, 467, 469, 470, 471, 472, 474, 476, 477, 481, 482, 483, 485, 494, 503, 505, 509, 511, 514, 521, 526, 527, 530, 537, 540, 547, 548, 550, 553, 557, 559, 560, 575, 577, 579, 580, 583, 590, 599, 603, 608, 609, 612, 617, 623, 636, 637, 638, 642, 644, 653, 656, 658, 659, 669, 673, 675, 679, 680, 683, 684, 685, 686, 688, 689, 690, 691, 695, 696, 698, 704, 710, 712, 715, 721, 726, 728, 729, 730, 740, 744, 745, 749, 763 Asia, EastChinaChinese Restaurants Outside China, or Soy Ingredients Used in Chinese-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes Outside China. 130, 149, 150, 203, 209, 211, 214, 216, 225, 227, 228, 244, 263, 264, 370, 390, 414, 423, 454, 460, 464, 468, 475, 484, 486, 495, 563, 564, 576, 590, 640, 641, 647, 657, 664, 667, 699, 700, 703, 714, 717, 732, 746, 749 Asia, EastChinaShennong / Shn Nung / Shen NungThe Heavenly Husbandman and Mythical Early Emperor of China. 1, 83, 331 Asia, EastChinaSoybean Production, Area and StocksStatistics, Trends, and Analyses. 98, 680 Asia, EastChinese overseas. See Chinese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy (Including Chinese from Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, etc.) Asia, EastHong Kong Special Administrative Region (British Colony until 1 July 1997, then returned to China). 12, 45, 65, 158, 226, 231, 254, 283, 285, 301, 370, 456, 485, 488, 494, 547, 571, 603, 631, 655, 668 Asia, EastJapan (Nihon or Nippon). 5, 7, 8, 10, 20, 29, 32, 34, 35, 36, 39, 42, 43, 48, 49, 53, 56, 67, 68, 69, 73, 76, 82, 88, 91, 94, 97, 98, 99, 100, 104, 110, 113, 121, 125, 126, 127, 138, 139, 142, 143, 146, 147, 151, 160, 168, 169, 172, 177, 179, 181, 183, 186, 207, 208, 210, 215, 218, 219, 224, 236, 238, 239, 248, 251, 255, 266, 269, 270, 271, 274, 282, 283, 290, 296, 319, 321, 323, 326, 327, 334, 344, 346, 347, 357, 358, 368, 373, 374, 376, 377, 383, 386, 392, 413, 416, 421, 425, 428, 430, 443, 446, 448, 451, 452, 466, 467, 476, 479, 481, 483, 492, 493, 500, 502, 505, 506, 507, 509, 510, 514, 516, 518, 520, 522, 524, 526, 527, 534, 540, 543, 545,
546, 570, 575, 580, 582, 583, 591, 593, 596, 599, 602, 604, 608, 609, 610, 614, 620, 630, 631, 632, 635, 639, 642, 645, 648, 650, 651, 653, 656, 658, 659, 665, 669, 670, 671, 672, 673, 678, 682, 685, 686, 688, 691, 710, 713, 718, 719, 724, 726, 733, 734, 740, 753, 759, 760, 763 Asia, EastJapanJapanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Japan, or Soy Ingredients Used in Japanese-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes Outside Japan. 138, 187, 210 Asia, EastJapanSoybean Production, Area and StocksStatistics, Trends, and Analyses. 98, 506 Asia, EastJapanese overseas. See Japanese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy Asia, EastKorea (North and South; Formerly Also Spelled Corea and Called Chosen by the Japanese [1907-1945]). 69, 73, 98, 104, 110, 118, 142, 169, 177, 181, 183, 219, 234, 321, 322, 323, 327, 334, 346, 375, 376, 387, 397, 419, 430, 439, 451, 467, 483, 509, 517, 543, 554, 560, 562, 580, 583, 608, 609, 610, 631, 642, 653, 669, 670, 676, 686, 709, 710, 716, 740, 747, 754, 760 Asia, EastKoreaKorean Restaurants Outside Korea, or Soy Ingredients Used in Korean-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes outside Korea. 321, 322, 323, 430, 439, 488, 740 Asia, EastKoreans overseas. See Koreans Overseas, Especially Work with Soy Asia, EastManchuria (Called Manchukuo by Japanese 1932-45; The Provinces of Heilongjiang [Heilungkiang], Jilin [Kirin], and Liaoning Were Called Northeast China after 1950). 42, 44, 49, 53, 61, 68, 73, 81, 85, 88, 97, 98, 104, 107, 110, 117, 118, 135, 142, 143, 168, 169, 470, 477 Asia, EastManchuriaSoybean Production, Area and Stocks Statistics, Trends, and Analyses. 98 Asia, EastManchuria. See South Manchuria Railway and the South Manchuria Railway Company (Minami Manshu Tetsudo K.K.) Asia, EastMongolia (Mongol Uls; Outer and Inner Mongolia Before 1911; Outer Mongolia [Mongolian Peoples Republic] Thereafter). 20, 67, 69 Asia, EastSoybean Production, Area and StocksStatistics, Trends, and Analyses. 346 Asia, EastTaiwan (Republic of China. Widely called by its Portuguese name, Formosa, from the 1870s until about 1945). 98, 110, 221, 232, 235, 245, 256, 257, 259, 265, 267, 278, 291, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 337, 346, 348, 349, 350, 351, 353, 374, 375, 385, 386, 417, 418, 430, 451, 460, 461, 476, 496, 509, 526, 542, 557, 558, 572, 575, 583, 603, 613, 631, 634, 673, 691, 694, 701, 725, 726, 736, 740, 760 Asia, EastTibet (Conquered by China in 1950; Also called Thibet or, in Chinese, Sitsang) and Tibetans Outside Tibet. 356
318
Asia, SoutheastIndonesia (Netherland(s) Indies, Netherlands East Indies, or Dutch East Indies before 1945) (Including Islands of Java, Borneo, Celebes, Lesser Sunda, Moluccas, New Guinea [West Irian], and Sumatra). 20, 29, 67, 98, 100, 104, 110, 123, 142, 172, 302, 307, 322, 333, 346, 352, 375, 376, 379, 397, 401, 459, 467, 479, 494, 502, 509, 517, 526, 540, 543, 560, 580, 582, 583, 601, 608, 609, 610, 631, 642, 653, 656, 669, 670, 671, 677, 678, 710, 711, 731, 748 Asia, SoutheastIndonesiaIndonesian Restaurants Outside Indonesia, or Soy Ingredients Used in Indonesian-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes Outside Indonesia. 442 Asia, SoutheastLaos. 67, 68, 142, 379, 677, 731 Asia, SoutheastMalaysia, Federation of (Including East Malaysia Composed of Sarawak and Sabah. British Borneo or North Borneo from about 1881 to 1963). Federation of Malaya before 1963. 98, 123, 142, 226, 307, 333, 346, 376, 379, 393, 467, 494, 509, 517, 526, 583, 608, 609, 610, 631, 641, 642, 649, 653, 667, 670, 678 Asia, SoutheastMyanmar / Burma. Ofcially Union of Myanmar. 98, 142, 346, 376 Asia, SoutheastPhilippines, Republic of the. 65, 79, 98, 100, 129, 140, 142, 153, 155, 161, 172, 175, 196, 222, 223, 234, 235, 241, 262, 306, 307, 322, 334, 345, 346, 359, 375, 376, 378, 379, 397, 406, 445, 451, 459, 467, 509, 517, 526, 543, 549, 560, 566, 583, 594, 608, 609, 617, 625, 642, 653, 670, 733, 763 Asia, SoutheastSingapore (Part of the Straits Settlements [British] from 1826 to 1946). 110, 137, 226, 239, 346, 376, 379, 407, 426, 488, 494, 509, 513, 583, 608, 609, 610, 631, 643, 666, 670, 678 Asia, SoutheastSoybean Production, Area and StocksStatistics, Trends, and Analyses. 625 Asia, SoutheastThailandThai Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Thailand, or Soy Ingredients Used in Thai-Style Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes outside Thailand. 708 Asia, SoutheastThailand, Kingdom of (Siam before 1939). 142, 280, 334, 339, 346, 349, 375, 376, 379, 397, 405, 411, 439, 479, 509, 535, 540, 543, 560, 583, 584, 608, 609, 610, 631, 642, 662, 663, 670, 681, 686, 711 Asia, SoutheastVietnamVietnamese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Vietnam, or Soy Ingredients Used in VietnameseStyle Recipes, Food Products, or Dishes outside Vietnam. 606 Asia, SoutheastVietnam / Viet Nam, Socialist Republic of (North and South) (Divided by French into Tonkin, Annam, and Cochinchine from 1887-1945). 20, 29, 33, 34, 37, 38, 39, 56, 60, 62, 67, 68, 69, 71, 98, 99, 142, 145, 156, 163, 200, 213, 273, 307, 346, 375, 376, 379, 526, 560, 608, 609, 615, 618, 627, 629, 686, 744, 751, 752 Asia, SoutheastVietnamese overseas. See Vietnamese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy
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Biographies, Biographical Sketches, and AutobiographiesSee also: Obituaries. 42, 321, 323, 430, 437, 476, 500, 530, 673, 677, 691, 726, 731, 740 Black Bean Paste, Sweet. See Sweet Black Soybean Paste (NonFermented). Also Called Sweet Black Bean Paste Black Bean Sauce or / Black Soybean Sauce / Soy Nugget Sauce. Occasionally Called Black Bean Paste. Made in the Kitchen by Crushing Salted, Fermented Black Soybeans, Usually with Minced Ginger, Garlic, Chilis and/or Chinese-style Wine. It is not a Commercial Product or Sauce. See Also Black Soybean Jiang (a Commercial Product). 210, 214, 243, 328, 412, 460, 485, 530, 531, 571, 646, 663, 676, 678, 699 Black Bean Sauce, HomemadeHow to Make at Home or on a Laboratory or Community Scale, by Hand. 485 Black Gram or Urd. Vigna mungo. Formerly Phaseolus mungo. 192 Black soybean sauce. See Black Bean Sauce Black soybeans. See Soybean SeedsBlack, Whole Dry Soybeans Black Seeded Black-eyed pea. See CowpeaVigna unguiculata Blaw-Knox Co. (Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania). Maker of Soybean Crushing Equipment, Especially the Rotocel. 305 Bongkrek poisoning. See Toxins and Toxicity in Foods and Feeds Bongkrek Poisoning Factors BotanySoybean. 1, 20, 67, 98, 142, 145, 273 Boyer, Robert. See Ford, Henry Bran, soy. See Fiber, Soy Brassica napus. See Rapeseed Brazil. See Latin America, South AmericaBrazil Breeding of Soybeans and Classical Genetics. 98, 142, 273, 275
Breeding soybeans for food uses. See Soybean ProductionVariety Development, Breeding, Selection, Evaluation, Growing, or Handling of Soybeans for Food Uses British Arkady Company Ltd. and British Arkady Holdings Ltd. (Manchester, England). Subsidiary of ADM of the USA. Including
320
Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesQubec (Quebec). 135, 396, 716, 740 Canavalia ensiformis. See Jack Bean (Canavalia ensiformis) Cancer Preventing Substances in Soybeans and Soyfoods (Such as the Isoavones Genistein and Daidzein) and Cancer Prevention. 633 Cancer, breast, prevention and diet. See Diet and Breast Cancer Prevention Candles, Crayons, and Soybean WaxIndustrial Uses of Soy Oil as an Hydrogenated Oil. 67, 116, 135
CarbohydratesDietary Fiber (Including Complex Carbohydrates, Bran, Water-Soluble and Water-Insoluble Fiber). 35
Catering. See Foodservice and Institutional Feeding or Catering Catsup or Catchup. See Ketchup, Catsup, Catchup, Ketchop, Ketchap, Katchup, etc. Word Mentioned in Document Catsup. See Ketchup, Mushroom (Mushroom Ketchup, WesternStyle), Ketchup, Tomato (Tomato Ketchup, Western-Style) Cauldron Foods Ltd. (Bristol, England). Owned by Rayner Burgess Ltd. Member of the Hero Group. 444, 480 Central America, soyfoods movement in. See Soyfoods Movement in Mexico and Central America Central America. See Latin AmericaCentral America Central Soya Co. (Fort Wayne, Indiana; Acquired in Oct. 1987 by the Ferruzzi Group in Ravenna, Italy. In 1991 became part of CSY Agri-Processing, Inc. [a holding company], operating as a member of the Eridania / Beghin-Say agro-industrial group, within FerruzziMontedison). Acquired in Oct. 2002 by Bunge. 305, 431, 520 Certication of soybean seeds. See Seed Certication (Soybeans)
Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesAlberta. 396 Ceylon. See Asia, SouthSri Lanka Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesBritish Columbia. 308, 660 Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesManitoba. 396 Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesOntario. 387, 396, 631 CheeseNon-Soy Non-Dairy Cheeses Made from Plants (Such as Peanut / Groundnut Cheese, Almond Cheese, etc.). 76 Cheese, cream. See Soy Cream Cheese
321
Chufa / Chufas (Cyperus esculentus). Also Called Earth Almond, Tiger Nuts/Tigernut, Nut Grass, Ground Almond, Hognut, Earth Nut, Rush Nut, Zulu Nut. French: Souchet. German: Erdmandel. Italian: Cipero comestible. 34, 39, 677, 731 Chungkook-Jang. See Natto, Korean-StyleChungkook-Jang / Chung Kook Jang / Chungkuk Jang Cicer arietinum. See Chickpeas or Garbanzo Beans Cleaning soybean seeds. See Seed CleaningEspecially for Food or Seed Uses Coconut Milk and Cream. Or Coconuts Used to Flavor Soymilk, Rice Milk, etc. 383, 439, 443, 481, 488, 599, 685 Coffee Substitutes or Adulterants, Non-SoyUsually Made from Roasted Cereals, Chicory, and / or Other Legumes. 78, 82 Coffee, soy. See Soy Coffee Coix lachryma-jobi. See Jobs Tears Color of soybean seeds. See Soybean Seeds (of different colors) Commercial Soy ProductsNew Products, Mostly Foods. 15, 23, 40, 45, 50, 51, 66, 137, 189, 190, 191, 285, 341, 362, 435, 444, 453, 491, 544, 565 Commercial soy productsearliest. See HistoricalEarliest Commercial Product Commercial soymilk. See Soymilk ProductionHow to Make Soymilk on a Commercial Scale Commercial tofu. See Tofu ProductionHow to Make Tofu on a Commercial Scale Composition of soybeans, soyfoods, or feeds. See Chemical / Nutritional Composition or Analysis Computerized Databases and Information Services, Information or Publications About Those Concerning Soya. 275, 673, 760 Concentrated soymilk. See Soymilk, Concentrated or Condensed (Canned, Bottled, or Bulk) Concerns about the Safety, Toxicity, or Health Benets of Soy in Human Diets. 723 Condensed soymilk. See Soymilk, Concentrated or Condensed (Canned, Bottled, or Bulk) Conservation of soils. See Soil ScienceSoil Conservation or Soil
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Crop Rotation Using Soybean Plants for Soil Improvement. 273 Cropping Systems: Intercropping, Interplanting, or Mixed Cropping (Often Planted in Alternating Rows with Some Other Crop). 67, 181, 355, 615 Crushing, soybeanequipment manufacturers. See Allis-Chalmers, Blaw-Knox Co. and Rotocel CSY Agri-Processing, Inc. See Central Soya Co. (Fort Wayne, Indiana) Cultural Practices, Cultivation & Agronomy (Including Crop Management, Erosion, Planting, Seedbed Preparation, Water Management / Irrigation). 13, 34, 39, 67, 79, 83, 98, 132, 141, 142, 153, 156, 163, 273, 345, 549, 615 Cultures of nitrogen xing bacteria for soybeans. See Nitrogen Fixing Cultures Curds Made from Soymilk (Soft, Unpressed Tofu) as an End Product or Food Ingredient (Oboro, Daufu-fa, Doufu-hua, Doufuhwa, Douhua, Doufu-nao, Fu-nao, Toufu-hwa, Tow-foo-fah). 6, 9, 14, 38, 79, 155, 222, 321, 323, 341, 347, 374, 375, 383, 385, 393, 430, 443, 445, 470, 476, 481, 549, 575, 594, 599, 617, 673, 685, 691, 726, 740 Cyperus esculentus. See Chufa. Also Called Earth Almond, Tiger Nuts, etc. Dairy alternatives (soy based). See Sour Cream Alternatives, Soy CheeseFermented, Soy CheeseNon-Fermented, Soy Cheese or Cheese Alternatives, Soy Cheesecake or Cream Pie, Soy Cream Cheese, Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses, Soy Yogurt, Soymilk, Soymilk, Fermented, Soymilk, FermentedSoy Ker, Tofu (Soy Cheese), Whip Topping Dairylike Non-dairy Soy-based Products, Other (Cottage Cheese, Sour Cream, and Icing). See also Non-dairy Whip Topping, Soy Ice Cream, Soy Yogurt, Soy Cheese, Cream Cheese or Cheesecakes, Coffee Creamer / Whitener or Cream, and Sour Cream. 321, 323, 740 Danshi / danchi (pinyin). See Soy Nuggets, Unsalted or Bland Davis, Adelle (1904-1974). Author and Health Foods Advocate. 489 Dawa-dawa. See NattoSoybean Dawa-dawa Day-neutral soybean varieties. See SoybeanPhysiologyDayNeutral / Photoperiod Insensitive Soybean Varieties Deceptive or misleading labeling or products. See Unfair Practices Including Possible Deceptive / Misleading Labeling, Advertising,
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Earliest document seen... See HistoricalEarliest Document Seen Ecology (The Mother of All the Sciences) and Ecosystems. 273, 622 Economics of soybean production and hedging. See Marketing Soybeans Edamam. See Green Vegetable Soybeans, Green Vegetable SoybeansEdamam Eden Foods, Inc. (Clinton, Michigan; Founded 4 Nov. 1969) and American Soy Products (Saline, Michigan; Founded Aug. 1986). 630 Edible or food-grade soybeans. See Green Vegetable Soybeans Vegetable-Type, Garden-Type, or Edible Soybeans Efciency of animals in converting feeds into human foods. See FeedsEfciency Egypt. See AfricaEgypt Eichberg, Joseph. See American Lecithin Corp. Embargoes, tariffs, duties. See Trade Policies (International) Concerning Soybeans, Soy Products, or SoyfoodsTariffs, Duties, Embargoes, Moratoriums Energy, renewable, from soybeans. See Diesel Fuel, SoyDiesel, Biodiesel, or Articial Petroleum England. See Europe, WesternUnited Kingdom Enzyme active soy our. See Soy Flour, Grits, and FlakesEnzyme Active Enzymes (General). 604 EnzymesCommercial Enzyme Preparations Used in Making Soyfoods by Hydrolyzing or Modifying Soy Protein, Carbohydrates, or Lipids (Including Phosphatides). 274, 493 Enzymes Produced During Fermentations Involving Koji or Aspergillus Oryzae (Including Enzymes in Miso and Fermented Soy Sauce). 58, 64, 100, 101, 109, 139, 364, 404, 466, 507, 514, 532, 548, 566, 591 Enzymes Produced During Fermentations Involving Tempeh, Natto, Fermented Tofu, or Soy Nuggets. 58, 64, 67, 100, 101, 109, 125,
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Europe, EasternRussia (Russian Federation; Formerly Russian SFSR, a Soviet Republic from 1917 to Dec. 1991). 42, 53, 59, 67, 73, 169, 204 Europe, EasternSlovenia (Slovenija; Declared Independence from Yugoslavia on 21 June 1991). 573 Europe, EasternUSSR (Union of Soviet Socialist Republics or Soviet Union; called Russia before 1917. Ceased to exist in Dec. 1991). 98, 107, 142, 169, 204, 376 Europe, EasternUkraine (Ukrayina; Formerly Ukranian SSR, a Soviet Republic from 1917 to Dec. 1991). 67 Europe, EasternYugoslavia. Composed of Serbia and Montenegro from 17 April 1992 to 13 March 2002. From 1918-1991 included the 6 Republics of Serbia / Servia, Croatia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Slovenia, Macedonia, and Montenegro. Included Carnaro, Fiume / Rijeka / Rieka 1947-1992; Formerly Also Spelled Jugoslavia. See also Serbia and Montenegro. 573 Europe, WesternAustria (sterreich). 18, 20, 34, 39, 58, 67, 73, 97, 98, 142 Europe, WesternBelgium, Kingdom of. 47, 73, 98, 142, 480, 630 Europe, WesternDenmark (Danmark; Including the Province of Greenland [Kalaallit Nunaat]). 58, 73, 98, 118, 297 Europe, WesternFrance (Rpublique Franaise). 10, 11, 13, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 29, 30, 32, 34, 37, 38, 39, 47, 52, 56, 57, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 66, 67, 68, 70, 73, 74, 75, 76, 83, 85, 89, 98, 114, 116, 118, 142, 145, 156, 159, 163, 168, 169, 200, 213, 275, 315, 408, 431, 480, 491, 512, 515, 528, 529, 532, 545, 598, 624, 630, 638, 650, 656, 740, 752, 763 Europe, WesternGermany (Deutschland; Including East and West Germany, Oct. 1949July 1990). 18, 71, 73, 83, 87, 97, 98, 104, 139, 142, 152, 303, 352, 430, 431, 437, 473, 480, 487, 539, 568, 575, 600, 630, 661, 678 Europe, WesternIntroduction of Soybeans to. Earliest document seen concerning soybeans in a certain Western European country. 10, 47 Europe, WesternIntroduction of Soybeans to. Earliest document seen concerning the cultivation of soybeans in a certain Western European country. 10 Europe, WesternIreland, Republic of (ire; Also Called Irish Republic). 465, 561, 675, 679 Europe, WesternItaly (Repubblica Italiana). 73, 98, 142, 233, 354, 431, 455, 480, 586 Europe, WesternNetherlands, Kingdom of the (Koninkrijk der Nederlanden), Including Holland. 67, 73, 98, 123, 142, 435, 515, 517, 598, 630, 677, 731, 748
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Europe, WesternScotland (Part of United Kingdom). 103, 141, 332, 436, 555 Europe, WesternSpain, Kingdom of (Reino de Espaa). 47, 142, 172, 538 Europe, WesternSweden, Kingdom of (Konungariket Sverige). 73, 98 Europe, WesternSwitzerland (Swiss Confederation). 20, 76, 98, 142, 352, 409, 430, 480, 630, 740 Europe, WesternUnited Kingdom of Great Britain and Northern Ireland (UKIncluding England, Scotland, Wales, Channel Islands, Isle of Man, Gibraltar). 7, 20, 33, 44, 47, 49, 57, 69, 71, 73, 78, 83, 85, 97, 98, 103, 104, 109, 118, 139, 141, 142, 162, 171, 192, 233, 237, 240, 242, 268, 284, 286, 317, 318, 332, 366, 389, 431, 436, 440, 442, 444, 449, 455, 480, 526, 530, 555, 565, 567, 569, 578, 604, 621, 630, 637, 650, 692, 702, 705, 708, 763 Europe, Western. 35, 42, 73, 118, 138, 346, 376, 517, 526 Europe, soyfoods movement in. See Soyfoods Movement in Europe Expellers. See Soybean CrushingEquipmentScrew Presses and Expellers Experiment stations (state) in USA. See Agricultural Experiment Stations in the United States Explosives Made from GlycerineIndustrial Uses of Soy Oil as a Non-Drying Oil. 97, 118 Exports. See Trade of Soybeans, Oil & Meal, or see Individual Soyfoods Exported Extruders and Extrusion Cooking: Low Cost Extrusion Cookers (LECs). 283 Extruders, Extrusion Cooking, and Extrusion Cookers. See also Low Cost Extrusion Cookers (LECs). 275, 529, 616 FAO. See United Nations (Including UNICEF, FAO, UNDP, UNESCO, and UNRRA) Work with Soy Faba bean or fava bean. See Broad Bean (Vicia faba) Fairchild, David (1869-1954). In 1897 founded Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction. After March 1901, Renamed Ofce of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction, then Ofce of Foreign Plant Introduction, then Division of Foreign Plant Introduction. 72, 168 Family history. See Genealogy and Family History Farm (The) (Summertown, Tennessee). See also Soyfoods Companies (USA)Farm Food Co. 340, 346, 388, 463, 515, 520, 660 Farm Food Co. (San Rafael, then San Francisco, California), Farm
Foods, and Farm Soy Dairy (Summertown, Tennessee). Div. of Hain Food Group (Uniondale, New York). Merged with Barricini Foods on 31 May 1985. Acquired by 21st Century Foods from Barracini Foods in mid-1993. 515 Farm machinery. See Tractors Farmers Union Grain Terminal Association (GTA). Established in 1938 in St. Paul, Minnesota. 239 Fatty Acids for Non-Drying or Drying Applications (As in Hot-Melt Glues or the Curing Component of Epoxy Glues)Industrial Uses of Soy Oil. 104 Fearn, Dr. Charles E. (-1949), and Fearn Soya Foods / Fearn Natural Foods. 141, 212 FeedsEfciency of Animals in Converting Feeds into Human Foods. 321, 323, 476, 673, 691, 726, 740 FeedsSoybeans, soybean forage, or soy products fed to various types of animals. See The type of animalchickens, pigs, cows, horses, etc. Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsHay (Whole Dried Soybean Plants, Foliage and Immature Seed Included). 67, 98, 104, 366 Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsPasture, Grazing or Foraging. 98, 132, 142 Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsPastures & GrazingHogging Down / Off, Pasturing Down, Grazing Down, Lambing Down / Off, and Sheeping-Down / Off. 98 Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsSilage / Ensilage Made in a Silo. 20, 98, 132, 142, 153 Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsSoilage and Soiling (Green Crops Cut for Feeding Conned Animals). 98 Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsStraw (Stems of Whole Dried Soybean Plants). Also Fertilizing Value, Other Uses, Yields, and Chemical Composition. 18, 67 Feeds / Forage from Soybean Plants or Full-Fat Seeds (Including Forage, Fodder {Green Plants}, or Ground Seeds). 13, 21, 29, 47, 73, 145 Feeds Made from Soybean Meal (Defatted). 67, 73, 87, 413 Feeds, Other Types (Okara, Calf Milk Replacers, Soybean Hulls, etc.). 366 Fermented Soyfoods and Their Fermentation (General). See also: Microbiology and BacteriologyHistory of Early Discoveries. 58, 94, 100, 101, 109, 121, 139, 177, 186, 204, 234, 235, 247, 248, 249, 252, 266, 272, 276, 280, 287, 288, 292, 294, 299, 305, 307, 332, 333, 334, 342, 361, 364, 365, 367, 371, 382, 392, 394, 395, 397, 401, 402, 418, 422, 428, 437, 458, 459, 462, 467, 478, 490, 523, 528, 532, 540, 545, 547, 548, 551, 552, 556, 559, 560, 566, 567,
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Fish, meatless. See Meat AlternativesMeatless Fish, Shellsh, and Other Seafood-like Products Five-spice pressed tofu. See Tofu, Five-Spice Pressed (Wu-hsiang Toufukan / Wuxiang Doufugan) Flatulence or Intestinal GasCaused by Complex Sugars (As the Oligosaccharides Rafnose and Stachyose in Soybeans), by Fiber, or by Lactose in Milk. 622, 623 Flavor Problems and Ways of Solving Them (Especially Beany OffFlavors in Soy Oil, Soymilk, Tofu, Whole Dry Soybeans, or Soy Protein Products, and Ways of Masking or Eliminating Them). 10, 30, 72, 82, 99, 136, 257, 267, 305, 623 Flax plant or axseed. See Linseed Oil, Linseed Cake / Meal, or the Flax / Flaxseed Plant Flint, James. Translator, Agent and Resident Administrator (Supercargo) in China of the East India Company (England) in the Late 1700s. Died 1793. Chinese NameHung Jen. See also: Samuel Bowen. 763 Flour, soy. See Soy Flour Fodder, soybean. See Feeds / Forage from Soybean Plants or FullFat Seeds Food and Drug Administration (FDA, U.S. Dept. of Health and Human Services). 589 Food uses of soybeans, breeding for. See Variety Development, Breeding, Selection, Evaluation, Growing, or Handling of Soybeans for Food Uses Foodservice and Institutional Feeding or Catering, Including Quantity or Bulk Recipes. 537, 619 Forage, soybean. See Feeds / Forage from Soybean Plants, Feeds / Forage from Soybean Plants or Full-Fat Seeds Ford, Henry (1863-1947), and His ResearchersWork with Soy Robert Boyer, Frank Calvert, William Atkinson, Edsel Ruddiman, Bob Smith, Holton W. Rex Diamond, and Jan Willemse. 136, 141, 152, 168, 529 Foreign Agricultural Service of USDA. See United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)Foreign Agricultural Service (FAS)
Frankfurters, hot dogs, or wienersmeatless. See Meat Alternatives Meatless Sausages Franklin, Benjamin (1706-1790; American Statesman and Philosopher), Charles Thomson, and the American Philosophical
327
Grain Farmers of Ontario (GFO). See Ontario Soybean Growers (Canada) Granose Foods Ltd. (Newport Pagnell, Buckinghamshire [Bucks.], England). Founded in 1899 under the name The International Health Association Ltd. Renamed Granose Foods Ltd. in 1926. Acquired by Haldane Foods Group in Jan. 1991. 598 Grazing green soybean plants. See Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsPasture, Grazing or Foraging Green Manure, Use of Soybeans as, by Plowing / Turning In / Under a Crop of Immature / Green Soybean Plants for Soil Improvement. 98, 104, 132 Green Vegetable SoybeansEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 132 Green Vegetable SoybeansHorticultureHow to Grow as a Garden Vegetable or Commercially. 34, 39, 67, 345 Green Vegetable SoybeansLeaves of the Soybean Plant Used as Food or Medicine. Called Huo in Chinese. 1, 123
Green Vegetable SoybeansThe Word Edamame (Japanese-Style, in the Pods), Usually Grown Using Vegetable-Type Soybeans Appearance in European-Language Documents. 212, 239, 321, 323, 346, 428, 506, 584, 642, 646, 676, 687, 693, 707, 740 Green Vegetable SoybeansVegetable-Type, Garden-Type, or Edible of Food-Grade Soybeans, General Information About, Including Use As Green Vegetable Soybeans. 601 Green Vegetable Soybeans, Usually Grown Using Vegetable-Type Soybeans. 13, 19, 20, 21, 29, 34, 39, 44, 67, 68, 74, 82, 89, 98, 108, 114, 116, 117, 124, 129, 132, 136, 141, 142, 153, 154, 155, 169, 172, 178, 192, 212, 239, 273, 275, 284, 299, 303, 309, 321, 323, 327, 343, 345, 346, 355, 370, 371, 374, 376, 408, 412, 420, 427, 428, 439, 447, 460, 476, 477, 487, 500, 506, 509, 517, 539, 541, 549, 557, 562, 575, 583, 584, 601, 611, 633, 642, 646, 659, 666, 670, 671, 673, 676, 687, 691, 693, 707, 720, 726, 740, 741, 752, 754 Green soybeans. See Soybean SeedsGreen Grilled tofu. See Tofu, Grilled. Chinese, Tofu, Grilled. JapaneseStyle Grits, roasted soy. See Roasted Whole Soy Flour (KinakoDark Roasted with Dry Heat, Full-Fat) and Grits Groundnuts. See Peanut, Peanuts HVP type soy sauce. See Soy Sauce, HVP Type (Non-Fermented or Semi-Fermented)
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Higeta (Choshi, Japan). Its Shoyu is Marketed by Kikkoman. 210 Hinoichi / Hinode, House Foods & Yamauchi Inc. See House Foods America Corporation (Los Angeles, California) HistoricalDocuments (Published After 1923) About Soybeans or Soyfoods Before 1900. 683, 684 HistoricalDocuments on Soybeans or Soyfoods Published Before 1900. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39 HistoricalDocuments on Soybeans or Soyfoods Published from 1900 to 1923. 40, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54, 55, 56, 57, 58, 59, 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79, 80, 81, 82, 83, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 89, 90, 91, 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97, 98, 99, 100, 101, 102, 103, 189 HistoricalEarliest Commercial Product Seen of a Particular Type or Made in a Particular Geographic Area. 15, 40, 137 HistoricalEarliest Document Seen Containing a Particular Word, Term, or Phrase. 1, 20, 35, 57, 58, 60, 63, 97, 98, 99, 113, 118, 129, 141, 195, 196, 303, 305, 317, 318, 321, 323, 344, 383, 430, 443, 481, 515, 599, 619, 685, 740 HistoricalEarliest Document Seen That Mentions a Particular Soybean Variety. 73
HistoricalEarliest Document Seen on a Particular Geographical Areaa Nation / Country, U.S. State, Canadian Province, or Continent. 10, 40, 83, 137, 142 HistoricalEarliest Document Seen on a Particular Subject. 2, 3, 7, 10, 20, 40, 47, 50, 57, 59, 62, 63, 64, 74, 136, 143, 167, 231, 363, 383, 431, 443, 444, 466, 481, 599, 685 HistoricalEarliest Document Seen on a Particular Subject. 11, 12, 15, 16, 42, 65, 70, 72, 74, 82, 92, 123, 132, 320, 335, 763 Historically Important Events, Trends, or Publications. 1, 21, 67 HistoryChronology. See Chronology / Timeline History of the SoybeanMyths and Early Errors Concerning Its History. 83 History. See also HistoricalEarliest..., Biography, Chronology / Timeline, and Obituaries. 20, 32, 34, 39, 42, 50, 51, 58, 59, 67, 73, 82, 83, 98, 104, 110, 118, 132, 142, 152, 186, 189, 232, 233, 239, 273, 283, 296, 299, 308, 321, 323, 331, 356, 358, 371, 374, 381, 396, 421, 430, 432, 455, 465, 476, 477, 489, 494, 514, 517, 520, 526, 527, 538, 540, 545, 548, 550, 551, 559, 575, 579, 591, 596, 597, 604, 619, 630, 673, 684, 690, 691, 695, 696, 726, 740, 744, 757, 758, 763
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Germany), and KMK (Kurhessische Molkerei Kassel). 598, 630 Hulls, soybean, uses. See Fiber, Soy Human NutritionClinical Trials. 98, 198, 233, 299, 371, 455 Hunger, Malnutrition, Famine, Food Shortages, and Mortality Worldwide. 88, 261, 321, 323, 476, 673, 691, 726, 740 Hyacinth Bean. Lablab purpureus (L.) Sweet; formerly Dolichos lablab. Also Called Bonavist Bean, Egyptian Kidney Bean, Egyptian Lentil. In South and Southeast Asia Called Lablab Bean. ChineseBiandou (W.-G. Pien Tou). 59, 83, 192, 601 Hydraulic presses. See Soybean CrushingEquipmentHydraulic Presses Hydrogenated Products (Margarine, Shortening, Soy Oil) Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 135 Hydrogenation of Soybean Oil, Soy Fatty Acids, or Soy Lecithin. 141, 305 Hydrogenation. See Margarine, Shortening, Trans Fatty Acids, Vanaspati, also Margarine and Shortening Ice cream, non-soy, non-dairy. See Soy Ice CreamNon-Soy NonDairy Relatives Ice cream, soy. See Soy Ice Cream Identity Preserved / Preservation. 642 Illinois, University of (Urbana-Champaign, Illinois). Soyfoods Research & Development. 195 Illinois. See United StatesStatesIllinois Illumination or Lighting by Burning Soy Oil in Wicked Oil Lamps Like KeroseneIndustrial Uses of Soy Oil as a Non-Drying Oil. 104, 128, 136 Illustrations (Often Line Drawings) Published before 1924. See also Photographs. 5, 16, 20, 21, 34, 39, 42, 43, 57, 59, 62, 67, 68, 70, 74, 77 Illustrations Published after 1923. See also Photographs. 113, 123, 166, 188, 191, 199, 207, 283, 294, 305, 317, 318, 321, 322, 323, 325, 331, 336, 374, 383, 393, 424, 443, 457, 481, 506, 515, 528, 599, 604, 607, 612, 637, 670, 676, 677, 685, 731, 740, 754, 763 Imagine Foods, Inc. (Palo Alto & San Carlos, California). Rice Dream / Beverage Manufactured by California Natural Products (CNP, Manteca, California). 465 Implements, agricultural. See Machinery (Agricultural), Implements, Equipment and Mechanization Important Documents #1The Very Most Important. 1, 2, 3, 7, 10,
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Enamels, Lacquers, and Other Protective / Decorative Coatings, Rubber Substitutes or Articial / Synthetic Rubber (Factice) Industrial uses of soy oil as a non-drying oil. See Lubricants, Lubricating Agents, and Axle Grease for Carts Industrial uses of soy oil. See Fatty Acids for Non-Drying or Drying Applications (As in Hot-Melt Glues or the Curing Component of Epoxy Glues) Industrial uses of soy proteins (including soy our). See Adhesives or Glues for Plywood, Other Woods, Wallpaper, or Building Materials Industrial uses of soy proteins. See Fibers (Articial Wool or Textiles Made from Spun Soy Protein Fibers, Including Azlon, Soylon, and Soy Silk / Soysilk), Paints (Especially Water-Based Latex Paints), Paper Coatings or Sizings, or Textile Sizing, Plastics (Including Molded Plastic Parts, Plastic Film, Disposable Eating Utensils and TablewareFrom Spoons to Plates, and Packaging Materials) Industrial uses of soybeans. See Chemurgy, the Farm Chemurgic Movement, and the Farm Chemurgic Council (USA, 1930s to 1950s) Including, Soybean Meal / Cake, Fiber (as from Okara), or Shoyu Presscake as a Fertilizer or Manure for the Soil Industry and Market Analyses and StatisticsMarket Studies. 427, 446, 520, 598, 630 Infant Foods and Infant Feeding, Soy-based. See Also Infant Formulas, Soy-based. 60, 148, 339, 346, 383, 443, 481, 537, 584, 599, 685 Infant Formula / Formulas, Soy-based, Including Effects on Infant Health (Alternatives to Milk. Usually Fortied and Regulated. Since 1963 Usually Made from Soy Protein Isolates). 141, 598, 760 Infants or Recently-Weaned Children Fed (or Not Fed) Soymilk in China or Chinese Cultures. 60, 64 Information, computerized. See Computerized Databases and Information Services, and Websites, Websites or Information on the World Wide Web or Internet Information. See Reference Books and Other Reference Resources Ink for PrintingIndustrial Uses of Soy Oil as a Drying Oil. 97, 118, 129, 135, 624 Innoval / Sojalpe (Afliate of Les Silos de ValenceValence, France). 598, 630 Inoculum / inocula of nitrogen xing bacteria for soybeans. See Nitrogen Fixing Cultures InsectsPest Control. See also: Integrated Pest Management. 67, 73, 98, 142, 273, 445, 615 Institutional feeding. See Foodservice and Institutional Feeding or
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Jack Bean. Canavalia ensiformis (L.) D.C. Also Called Sword Bean (Erroneously; it is Canavalia gladiata) and Horse Bean (Rarely). ChineseDaodou (pinyin); formerly Tao-tou (Wade-Giles). 192 JangKorean-Style Fermented Soybean Paste. Includes Doenjang / Toenjang / Doen Jang / Daen Chang (Soybean Miso), and Kochujang / Kochujang / Gochujang / Kochu Jang / Ko Chu Jang / Kochu Chang (Red-Pepper and Soybean Paste). 321, 327, 352, 387, 401, 422, 439, 467, 488, 560, 562, 584, 610, 633, 653, 676, 709, 716, 747 JapanShokuhin Sogo Kenkyujo. See National Food Research Institute (NFRI) (Tsukuba, Ibaraki-ken, Japan) Japan. See Asia, EastJapan Japanese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy or Macrobiotics. 104, 139, 155, 187, 212, 308, 310, 311, 364, 446, 465, 520, 566, 597, 604, 628, 630, 682 Japanese Soybean Types and VarietiesEarly, with Names. 20, 98 Japanese restaurants outside Japan, or Japanese recipes that use soy ingredients outside Japan. See Asia, EastJapanJapanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Japan Jerky, Soy. Including Jerky-Flavored Soy Products. See also: Tofu, Flavored / Seasoned and Baked, Grilled, Braised or Roasted. 383, 443, 481, 599, 685 Jerky, tofu. See Tofu, Flavored / Seasoned and Baked, Broiled, Grilled, Braised or Roasted JiangChinese-Style Fermented Soybean Paste / Miso (Soybean Jiang {doujiang} or Chiang / Tou Chiang [Wade-Giles]). Includes Tuong from Indochina, Tao-Tjiung and Tao-Tjiong from Indonesia. 1, 3, 4, 19, 33, 40, 54, 67, 69, 81, 83, 97, 119, 124, 137, 142, 145, 162, 174, 176, 181, 188, 213, 227, 231, 243, 248, 263, 264, 273, 291, 314, 322, 337, 356, 360, 370, 401, 406, 417, 422, 424, 440, 474, 530, 559, 560, 564, 579, 580, 606, 610, 629, 658, 671, 680, 683, 703, 732, 741, 743, 752 JiangEarly Non-Soy Pase Made with Meat or Fish in China or Japan. 372 Jobs Tears (Coix lachryma-jobi; formerly Coix lacryma). Called Hatomugi or Hato Mugi in Japanese, and Adlay in South Asia. Sometimes mistakenly called Pearl Barley (Since it is unrelated to Barley). 356, 676 Jonathan P.V.B.A. (Kapellen, Belgium). 598
Intestinal Flora / Bacteria and ToxemiaIncl. Changing and Reforming (L. Acidophilus, Bidus, L. Bulgaricus etc.). 252, 467 Introduction of Soybeans (as to a Nation, State, or Region, with P.I. Numbers for the USA) and Selection. 10, 20, 79, 97, 98, 142 Introduction of foreign plants to the USA. See United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction Inyu. See Soy SauceTaiwanese Black Bean Sauce (Inyu) Iodine number. See Soy Oil ConstantsIodine Number Iowa State University / College (Ames, Iowa), and Univ. of Iowa (Iowa City). 633, 642, 760 Iowa. See United StatesStatesIowa Iron Availability, Absorption, and Content of Soybean Foods and Feeds. 541, 592, 605 Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Washington). 446, 520, 630 Isoavone or Phytoestrogen Content of Soyfoods, Soy-based Products, Soy Ingredients, and Soybean Varieties (Esp. Genistein, Daidzein, and Glycitein). 589, 633, 666, 760 Isoavones in soybeans and soyfoods. See Estrogens, Incl. Genistein, Daidzein, etc. Isolated soy proteins. See Soy ProteinsIsolates Israel. See Asia, Middle EastIsrael and Judaism Ito San soybean variety. See Soybean Varieties USAIto San Itona (Wigan, Lancashire, England). Maker of Soymilk, Soymilk Products, Soynuts, and Meat Alternatives. 598
Kaempfer, Engelbert (1651-1716)German physician and traveler. 20, 32, 34, 39, 98 Kanjang / GanjangKorean-Style Fermented Soy Sauce. Also spelled Kan Jang / Gan Jang. 219, 346, 387, 560, 562, 653, 669, 709, 710
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560, 566, 586, 587, 591, 593, 602, 610, 632, 635, 639, 653, 658, 677, 678, 688, 709, 728, 731, 741, 748, 757, 758 Koji, Red Rice. (Also Called Fermented Red Rice, Ang-Kak / Angkak, Hongzao or Hong Qu / Hongqu in Chinese / Pinyin, Hung Ch in Chinese / Wade-Giles, or Beni-Koji in Japanese). Made with the Mold Monascus purpureus Went, and Used as a Natural Red Coloring Agent (as with Fermented Tofu). 3, 5, 7, 44, 83, 84, 90, 91, 95, 102, 109, 113, 119, 167, 194, 196, 230, 232, 234, 235, 241, 248, 256, 276, 277, 332, 338, 349, 351, 361, 365, 379, 397, 406, 417, 459, 462, 466, 467, 483, 507, 516, 518, 521, 548, 560, 586, 614, 620, 622, 639, 645, 648, 653, 663, 665, 680, 684, 688, 699, 709, 729, 732, 753, 757, 758 Koji, Soybean (Soybeans Fermented with a Mold, Especially Aspergillus oryzae), Such as Miso-dama or Meju. 1, 4, 234, 387, 397, 467, 560 Korea. See Asia, EastKorea Korean-style fermented soy sauce. See KanjangKorean-Style Fermented Soy Sauce Korean-style fermented soybean paste. See JangKorean-Style Fermented Soybean Paste Korean-style miso, etymology of. See Miso, Korean-Style Korean-style natto. See Natto, Korean-StyleChungkook-Jang / Chung Kook Jang / Chungkuk Jang Korean-style recipes, soyfoods used in. See Asia, EastKoreaSoy Ingredients Used in Korean-Style Recipes Koreans Overseas, Especially Work with Soy. 554 Kudzu or Kuzu (Pueraria montana var. lobata. Formerly Pueraria lobata, Pueraria thunbergiana, Pachyrhizus thunbergianus, Dolichos lobatus). For Rhodesian Kudzu Vine see Neonotonia wightii. See also Tropical Kudzu or Puero (Pueraria phaseoloides). 34, 39, 677, 731 Kushi, Michio and AvelineTheir Life and Work with Macrobiotics, and Organizations They Founded or Inspired. 311, 465, 682 Kuzu. See Kudzu or Kuzu (Pueraria...) La Sierra Industries (La Sierra, California). See Van Gundy, Theodore A., and La Sierra Industries
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Latin AmericaCentral AmericaIntroduction of Soybeans to. Earliest document seen concerning soybeans or soyfoods in connection with (but not yet in) a certain Central American country. 132 Latin AmericaCentral AmericaIntroduction of Soybeans to. Earliest document seen concerning the cultivation of soybeans in a certain Central American country. 142 Latin AmericaCentral AmericaMexico. 42, 142, 320, 321, 346, 376, 447, 555 Latin AmericaCentral AmericaNicaragua. 132 Latin AmericaCentral AmericaPanama. 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth America (General). 354 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaArgentina (Argentine Republic). 98, 142, 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaBolivia. 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaBrazil, Federative Republic of. 142, 293, 321, 346, 376, 617, 740 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaChile (Including Easter Island). 142, 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaColombia. 142, 346, 376, 740 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaEcuador (Including the Galapagos Islands. Formerly also called Equator, the English translation of the Spanish Ecuador). 142, 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaGuyana (British Guiana before 1966). 98, 142, 330, 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaIntroduction of Soy Products to. This document contains the earliest date seen for soybean products in a certain South American country. Soybeans as such had not yet been reported by that date in this country. 330 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaParaguay. 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaPeru. 142, 346, 376 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaSuriname (Also Surinam before 1978; Dutch Guiana before 1975). 142 Latin AmericaSouth AmericaUruguay, Oriental Republic of. 142, 346, 376
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Lipid and Fatty Acid Composition of Soybeans (Seeds or Plant), or Soybean Products (Including Soy Oil). 59, 62, 64 LipidsEffects of Dietary Lipids (Especially Soy Oil and Lecithin) on Blood Lipids (Especially Cholesterol). 305 Lipolytic enzymes in the soybean. See Enzymes in the Soybean Lipoxygenase and Its Inactivation Lipoxygenase. See Enzymes in the SoybeanLipoxygenase and Its Inactivation Lists and Descriptions (Ofcial and / or Extensive) of Early U.S. Soybean Varieties with Their P.I. Numbers and Synonyms. 98 Loma Linda Foods (Riverside, California). Named La Loma Foods from Feb. 1989 to Jan. 1990. Acquired by Worthington Foods in Jan. 1990. 630 Los AngelesCity and CountyWork with Soyfoods, Natural / Health Foods, and / or Vegetarianism. 183, 193, 362, 489, 597, 763 Low cost extrusion cookers. See Extruders and Extrusion Cooking: Low Cost Extrusion Cookers (LECs) Lubricants, Lubricating Agents, and Axle Grease for Carts Industrial Uses of Soy Oil as a Non-Drying Oil. 97, 118, 136, 649 Lucerne / lucern. See Alfalfa or Lucerne Lukoskie, Luke. See Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Washington) Lupins or Lupin (Also spelled Lupine, Lupines, Lupinseed; Lupinus albus, L. angustifolius, L. luteus, L. mutabilis). 677, 731 MSG (Monosodium Glutamate, the Sodium Salt of Glutamic Acid). 109, 179, 181, 222, 225, 227, 231, 241, 244, 282, 461, 580 Machinery (Agricultural), Implements, Equipment, and Mechanization (Binders, Cultivators, Cutters, Harvesters, Mowers, Pickers, Planters, Reapers, Separators, Thrashers, or Threshers). See also: Combines and Tractors. 67 Macrobiotic Cookbooks. 321, 323, 374, 388, 476, 575, 654, 673, 691, 726, 737, 740 MacrobioticsCriticisms of its Dietary Philosophy and Practice. 388 Macrobiotics. See Aihara, Herman and CornelliaTheir Life and Work, Kushi, Michio and AvelineTheir Life and Work, Muramoto, NoboruHis Life and Work Macrobiotics. See also: George Ohsawa, Michio and Aveline Kushi, Herman and Cornellia Aihara. 311, 321, 323, 374, 388, 449, 465, 476, 574, 575, 604, 619, 654, 673, 691, 726, 737, 740 Madison Foods and Madison College (Madison, Tennessee). Madison Foods (Then a Subsidiary of Nutritional Corp.) Was Acquired by Worthington Foods in Aug. 1964. 141, 212
335
Pork-related Products. See also Meatless Sausages. 321, 323, 393, 633, 740 Meat AlternativesMeatless Burgers and Patties. See Also Meat Extenders. 282, 311, 321, 323, 347, 352, 374, 380, 383, 430, 443, 480, 481, 500, 595, 598, 599, 633, 685, 740 Meat AlternativesMeatless Chicken, Goose, Duck, and Related Poultry Products. See also Meatless Turkey. 6, 474, 557 Meat AlternativesMeatless Fish, Shellsh, and Other Seafood-like Products. 321, 323, 383, 393, 443, 481, 599, 685, 740 Meat AlternativesMeatless Sausages (Including Frankfurters, Hot Dogs, Wieners, Salami, Pepperoni, etc.). See Also Meat Extenders. 64, 67, 633 Meat Alternatives or Substitutes, Meatless or Meatlike Products Etymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 129 Meat Products Extended with Soy Protein, or Meat Extenders (Marketed as Such). 135, 503, 617 Media, Popular Articles on Soyfoods in the USA, Canada, or Related to North Americans in Asia. 74, 118, 335, 336, 385, 432, 463, 505 Medical aspects of soybeans. See Diabetes and Diabetic Diets, MenopauseRelief of Its Unpleasant Symptoms Medical aspects of vegetarian diets. See Vegetarian DietsMedical Aspects Medicine, Chinese Traditional. See Chinese Medicine Mei Dou Za / Mei-Tou-Cha / Meitauza. See Tempeh, Okara MenopauseRelief of Its Unpleasant Symptoms, Such as Hot Flashes and Night Sweats. 633 Mesoamerica. See Latin AmericaCentral America Mexico and Central America, soyfoods movement in. See Soyfoods Movement in Mexico and Central America Mexico. See Latin America, Central AmericaMexico Meyer, Frank N. (1875-1918). USDA Plant Explorer in Asia. 42, 72, 73, 74, 82, 88, 97, 99, 168 Michigan. See United StatesStatesMichigan Microalgae. See Single Cell Proteins (Non-Photosynthetic) Microbiological Problems (Food Spoilage, Sanitation, and Contamination). See also: NutritionToxins and Toxicity in Foods and FeedsMicroorganisms, Especially Bacteria, as Causal Agents. 383, 443, 481, 599, 685
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462, 465, 467, 473, 476, 477, 478, 480, 486, 487, 488, 489, 490, 499, 500, 505, 506, 509, 512, 514, 515, 517, 520, 523, 528, 532, 533, 535, 537, 538, 541, 543, 547, 548, 549, 551, 552, 556, 560, 562, 566, 567, 568, 569, 573, 574, 575, 578, 580, 581, 583, 584, 587, 588, 589, 591, 592, 594, 600, 601, 602, 604, 605, 608, 609, 610, 616, 617, 619, 622, 623, 625, 628, 629, 630, 633, 642, 653, 654, 656, 658, 659, 660, 661, 662, 669, 670, 671, 673, 676, 677, 681, 687, 688, 691, 693, 702, 707, 710, 711, 720, 726, 731, 733, 737, 740, 741, 743, 748, 754 MisoEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 35, 196, 207, 234, 291, 629 MisoImports, Exports, International Trade. 604 MisoIndonesian-style. See TaucoIndonesian-Style Fermented Soybean Paste Miso Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 207, 346, 413, 417, 427, 446, 520, 630 Miso Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses Individual Companies. 446, 520, 630 Miso SoupMainly Japanese. 22, 138, 210, 308, 310, 311, 439, 440, 465, 488, 500, 506, 578, 604, 654, 676, 707, 737 Miso companies (USA). See Miyako Oriental Foods (Baldwin Park, California), South River Miso Co. (Conway, Massachusetts) Miso, HomemadeHow to Make at Home or on a Laboratory or Community Scale, by Hand. 138 Miso, Indonesian-StyleEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 123, 333, 560 Miso, Korean-StyleEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 321, 676
Miso, soybeanChinese-Style. See JiangChinese-Style Fermented Soybean Paste Miso, soybeanKorean-style. See JangKorean-Style Fermented Soybean Paste Missouri. See United StatesStatesMissouri MitokuNatural Foods Exporter and Distributor (Tokyo, Japan). 574 Miyako Oriental Foods (Baldwin Park, California). 362, 619 Mizono family. See Azumaya, Inc. (San Francisco, California)
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(USDA-ARS) (Peoria, Illinois). Named Northern Regional Research Laboratory prior to July 1976. Named Northern Regional Research Center prior to 28 Dec. 1991. 170, 174, 176, 177, 179, 181, 183, 194, 204, 207, 219, 232, 234, 235, 237, 245, 246, 247, 257, 266, 267, 270, 272, 277, 280, 287, 292, 294, 299, 300, 305, 313, 342, 346, 366, 371, 376, 381, 382, 395, 397, 401, 402, 403, 404, 422, 428, 437, 459, 462, 478, 490, 497, 523, 551, 552, 559, 560, 581, 582, 587, 591, 602, 607, 621, 624 National Food Research Institute (NFRI) (Tsukuba, Ibaraki-ken, Japan). 215, 236, 248, 290, 319, 448, 479, 582, 602 National Oilseed Processors Assoc. (NOPA) (National Soybean Oil Manufacturers Association from May 1930 to 1935; National Soybean Processors Assoc. [NSPA] from June 1936 to Aug. 1989. Washington, DC. Including Soy Flour Assoc. [1936-1949], Soya Food Research Council [1936], and Soybean Nutritional Research Council [1937]). 305 Natto (Whole Soybeans Fermented with Bacillus natto). 35, 58, 67, 73, 74, 76, 98, 100, 101, 104, 109, 110, 129, 186, 207, 215, 234, 239, 247, 248, 261, 266, 268, 272, 275, 280, 287, 290, 293, 294, 297, 299, 303, 305, 307, 320, 321, 323, 327, 333, 334, 346, 352, 364, 365, 367, 371, 373, 374, 376, 377, 382, 401, 402, 408, 413, 419, 422, 425, 427, 428, 431, 440, 458, 459, 462, 465, 467, 473, 476, 478, 487, 499, 500, 506, 509, 514, 517, 520, 523, 528, 532, 533, 538, 540, 541, 543, 551, 552, 556, 560, 562, 566, 567, 568, 569, 573, 575, 578, 582, 584, 587, 588, 591, 592, 601, 605, 610, 630, 631, 642, 653, 656, 658, 659, 661, 670, 671, 673, 676, 677, 688, 691, 720, 726, 731, 740, 743, 754 NattoEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 104, 321, 323, 740 NattoOther TypesSoeda or Rul-kre from Bhutan, Pe-boutsu Pebout or Pe-Ngapi from Burma, Seang from Cambodia. 540 NattoSoybean Dawa-dawa (From West Africa. Also called Dawadawa, Dadawa, Daddawa, Iru, Local Maggi, Ogiri, or Soumbala / Soumbara). 234, 275, 458, 540, 556, 567 Natto Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 520, 630 Natto from Nepal. See Kinema Natto from Thailand. See Thua-nao Natto, Korean-StyleChungkook-Jang / Chung Kook Jang / Chungkuk Jang / Chung Kuk Jang / Chongkukjang / Chungkukjang / Chonggukchang / Cheonggukjang / Joenkukjang. 346, 716, 754 Natural / Vegetarian Food Products Companies. See American Natural Snacks, Boca Burger, Fantastic Foods, Gardenburger Natural Foods Distributors and Master Distributors (USA). See Eden Foods, Inc. (Clinton, Michigan). Founded 4 Nov. 1969, Erewhon (Boston, Massachusetts), Westbrae Natural Foods, Inc. (Berkeley, California)
338
North America. See United States of America, and Canada. For Mexico, see Latin America, Central America North Carolina. See United StatesStatesNorth Carolina Northeast India. See Asia, SouthIndia, Northeast / North-East. The Contiguous Seven Sister States and Sikkim Northern Regional Research Center (NRRC) (Peoria, Illinois). See National Center for Agricultural Utilization Research (NCAUR) (USDA-ARS) Northern Soy, Inc. (Rochester, New York). 383, 443, 446, 481, 520, 599, 685 Nut Butters, Non-Soy. Including Butter Made from Nuts or Seeds, Such as Brazil Nuts, Cashews, Coconuts, Filberts, Hazelnuts, Hickory Nuts, Hemp Seeds, Macadamia Nuts, Pecans, Pignolias, Pine Nuts, Pistachios, Pumpkin Seeds, Sunower Seeds, Walnuts, etc. See also: Almond Butter, Peanut Butter, Sesame Butter, Soynut Butter. 76 Nut milk or cream. See MilkNon-Dairy Milks and Creams Made from Nuts Nutrition (General). 34, 39, 110, 140, 141, 155, 179, 181, 192, 219, 321, 323, 343, 366, 374, 393, 430, 458, 476, 506, 515, 521, 532, 533, 558, 575, 600, 673, 691, 726, 734, 740 NutritionBiologically active phytochemicals. See Antioxidants, Phytic Acid, Phytates, and Phytin, Saponins, Trypsin / Protease Inhibitors NutritionBiologically active substances. See Antinutritional Factors (General), Goitrogens and Thyroid Function, Hemagglutinins (Lectins or Soyin)
NutritionMedical / Medicinal-Therapeutic Aspects. See Chinese Medicine, Traditional NutritionMedical Aspects. See Cancer Preventing Substances in Soy, Diabetes and Diabetic Diets, MenopauseRelief of Its Unpleasant Symptoms NutritionMinerals. See Aluminum in the Diet and Cooking UtensilsProblems. Soy Is Not Mentioned, Calcium Availability, Absorption, and Content of Soy NutritionProteinEarly and basic research. See ProteinEarly and Basic Research NutritionProtein. See Amino Acids and Amino Acid Composition and Content Nutrition et Soja, Div. of Nutrition et Sant (Revel near Toulouse,
339
Oil, soyindustrial uses of, as a drying oil. See Binder for Sand Foundry Cores, Industrial Uses of Soy Oil, Linoleum, Floor Coverings, Oilcloth, and Waterproof Goods, Resins, Plastics, and Plasticizers (Such as Epoxidized Soy OilESO), Rubber Substitutes or Articial / Synthetic Rubber (Factice) Oil, soyindustrial uses of, as a hydrogenated oil. See Candles, Crayons, and Soybean Wax Oil, soyindustrial uses of, as a non-drying oil. See Adjuvants, Carriers, and Surfactants for Pesticides, Herbicides, and Other Agricultural Chemicals, Diesel Fuel, SoyDiesel, Biodiesel or Articial Petroleum, Explosives Made from Glycerine, Illumination or Lighting by Burning Soy Oil in Wicked Oil Lamps Like Kerosene, Lubricants, Lubricating Agents, and Axle Grease for Carts, Release or Curing Agents for Concrete or Asphalt, Industrial Solvents, Hydraulic Fluids, and Other Minor or General Uses, Soaps or Detergents Oil, soyindustrial uses of. See Industrial Uses of Soy Oil Oil, soyindustrial uses. See Industrial Uses of Soy Oil Oil, soy, industrial uses of, as a drying oil. See Industrial Uses of Soy Oil Oil, soy. See Soy Oil Oil, sweet. See Sweet oil Okara tempeh. See Tempeh, Okara Okara. See FiberOkara or Soy Pulp Okinawa / Ryukyu Islands / Great LooChoo (Part of Japan Since 1972). 7, 8, 146, 151, 224, 251, 296, 357, 358, 368, 416, 452, 466, 483, 492, 502, 505, 507, 516, 518, 522, 524, 526, 527, 534, 546, 593, 610, 614, 620, 632, 635, 639, 648, 650, 665, 672, 682, 713, 718, 719, 733, 753, 757, 758, 759 Oligosaccharides (The Complex Sugars Rafnose, Stachyose, and Verbascose). 623 Olive / Olives (Olea europea). See also Olive Oil. 99, 248 Olive Oil. 10, 18, 29, 85 Oncom, Onchom, or Ontjom. See Tempeh, Non-Soy Relatives Ontario Soybean Growers (Canada: Name ChangesOntario Soybean Growers Association, Nov. 1946 to 1949. Ontario SoyaBean Growers Marketing Board, 1949 to 1989. Ontario Soybean Growers Marketing Board, 1989 to 1 Dec. 1999). Merged into Grain Farmers of Ontario 2010 Jan 1. 631 Ontario. See Canadian Provinces and TerritoriesOntario Organically Grown Soybeans or Organic Soybean Products in
340
Pea, or Pindar Pea / Pindars. 33, 34, 39, 49, 53, 69, 73, 76, 100, 123, 130, 148, 153, 192, 196, 231, 241, 243, 247, 273, 317, 318, 354, 355, 365, 370, 371, 434, 439, 440, 442, 447, 457, 458, 488, 505, 541, 556, 595, 601, 604, 606, 609, 618, 624, 629, 662, 670, 676, 677, 711, 731 Peanut Butter. 76, 153, 196, 241, 317, 318, 440, 457, 541, 604 Peanut Meal or Cake (Defatted). 100, 169 Peanut Milk. 76 Peanut Oil. 49, 53, 76, 86, 188, 199, 231, 243, 317, 318, 457, 676 Peking / Pekin soybean variety. See Soybean Varieties USA Mammoth Yellow PeriodicalsSoyfoods Movement. See Soyfoods Movement Periodicals Pesticide carriers and adjuvants. See Adjuvants, Carriers, and Surfactants for Pesticides, Herbicides, and Other Agricultural Chemicals
Photographs Published after 1923. See also Illustrations. 104, 110, 119, 152, 154, 168, 181, 190, 193, 202, 207, 212, 213, 232, 234, 239, 243, 257, 263, 266, 273, 277, 282, 283, 285, 291, 305, 306, 308, 314, 321, 323, 331, 337, 339, 344, 360, 370, 377, 379, 385, 387, 390, 393, 410, 417, 425, 432, 437, 457, 461, 467, 476, 484, 506, 515, 516, 518, 523, 530, 571, 580, 591, 624, 631, 637, 656, 659, 662, 663, 669, 673, 675, 677, 678, 687, 693, 699, 700, 706, 710, 711, 717, 720, 726, 728, 731, 734, 737, 740, 741, 744, 745, 746, 754, 762, 763 Photographs Published before 1924. See also Illustrations. 59, 65, 67, 73, 82, 85, 88, 97, 99, 100 Photoperiod insensitive soybean varieties. See Soybean PhysiologyDay-Neutral / Photoperiod Insensitive Soybean Varieties Photoperiodism. See SoybeanPhysiologyPhotoperiodism / Photoperiod and Photoperiodic Effects, SoybeanPhysiology and Biochemistry Phytic Acid (Inositol Hexaphosphate), Phytates / Phytate, and Phytin. 404, 440, 622, 623 Phytochemicals in soybeans and soyfoods. See Cancer Preventing Substances in Soybeans and Soyfoods Phytoestrogen content. See Isoavone or Phytoestrogen Content of Soyfoods, Soy Ingredients, and Soybean Varieties
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Price of Soybeans, Soybean Seeds, and Soybean ProductsExcept Sauces (Which See). 47, 78, 696 Production of soybeans. See Soybean Production Products, soy, commercial (mostly foods). See Commercial Soy ProductsNew Products Protease inhibitors. See Trypsin / Protease Inhibitors Protection of soybeans from diseases. See Diseases of soybeans Protection of soybeans. See InsectsPest Control. See also: Integrated Pest Management, NematodesDisease Control, Pesticides (General), Rodents and BirdsPest ControlEspecially Rabbits and Woodchucks ProteinEarly and Basic Research. 48, 98, 299, 371, 497 Protein Quality, and Supplementation / Complementarity to Increase Protein Quality of Mixed Foods or Feeds. See also NutritionProtein Amino Acids and Amino Acid Composition. 198, 270, 422 Protein Technologies International (PTI) (St. Louis, Missouri. Established on 1 July 1987 as a Wholly-Owned Subsidiary of Ralston Purina Co.) Sold to DuPont on 3 Dec. 1997. 630 Protein products, soy. See Soy Protein Products Protein sources, alternative, from plants. See Amaranth, Azuki Bean, Bambarra groundnuts, Chufa (Cyperus esculentus) or Earth Almonds, Leaf Proteins, Lupins or Lupin, Peanut & Peanut Butter, Peanuts & Peanut Butter, Quinoa, Single Cell Proteins (NonPhotosynthetic), Sunower Seeds, Wheat Gluten & Seitan, Winged Bean Protein supplementation / complementarity to increase protein quality. See NutritionProtein Quality Psophocarpus tetragonolobus. See Winged Bean Public Law 480 (Food for Peace Program. FormallyAgricultural Trade Development and Assistance Act of 1954). 256, 257, 267, 270, 271, 274, 346, 624 Puddings. See Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses (Usually made from Soymilk Pueraria. See Kudzu or Kuzu Quality and grades of soybean seed. See Seed Quality of Soybeans Condition, Grading, and Grades (Moisture, Foreign Material, Damage, etc.) Quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa Willd.). Also spelled Quinua. 34, 39, 677, 687, 731
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Resource Shortages (Including Water and Energy), Economic Growth, Pollution, and Appropriate Technology Worldwide. 338 Restaurants or cafeterias, vegetarian or vegan. See Vegetarian or Vegan Restaurants Restaurants or delis, new, soyfoods. See Soyfoods Restaurants, New Restaurants or delis, soyfoods. See Soyfoods MovementSoyfoods Restaurants Restaurants, Chinese, outside China, or Chinese recipes that use soy ingredients outside China. See Asia, EastChinaChinese Restaurants Outside China Restaurants, Indonesian, outside Indonesia, or Indonesian recipes that use soy ingredients outside Indonesia. See Asia, Southeast IndonesiaIndonesian Restaurants Outside Indonesia Restaurants, Japanese, outside Japan, or Japanese recipes that use soy ingredients outside Japan. See Asia, EastJapanJapanese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Japan Restaurants, Thai, outside Thailand, or Thai recipes that use soy ingredients outside Thailand. See Asia, SoutheastThailandThai Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Thailand Restaurants, Vietnamese, outside Vietnam, or Vietnamese recipes that use soy ingredients outside Vietnam. See Asia, Southeast VietnamVietnamese Restaurants or Grocery Stores Outside Vietnam Reunion. See AfricaReunion (Runion is a Department of France) Reviews of the literature. See Bibliographies and / or Reviews of the Literature Rhizobium bacteria. See Soybean ProductionNitrogen Fixation Rice Milk (Including Amazake) and Related Rice-Based Products (Some Made from Koji)Etymology of These Terms and Their Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 619 Rice Milk (Non-Dairy)Amazake, Made with Rice Koji in the Traditional Way (Without Adding Commercial Enzymes). Also called Rice Milk or Rice Drink. 186, 528, 619, 653 Rice koji. See Koji Rice wine. See Sake Rice, Brown. Also Called Whole Grain Rice or Hulled But Unpolished Rice. 321, 383, 465, 604, 740 Rice, Red Fermented. See Koji, Red Rice. 3, 5, 7, 44, 83, 84, 90, 91, 95, 102, 109, 113, 119, 167, 194, 196, 230, 232, 234, 235, 241, 248, 256, 276, 277, 332, 338, 349, 351, 361, 365, 379, 397, 406, 417, 459, 462, 466, 467, 483, 507, 516, 518, 521, 548, 560, 586, 614, 620, 622, 639, 645, 648, 653, 663, 665, 680, 684, 688, 699,
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76, 153, 231, 291, 317, 318, 321, 323, 328, 337, 343, 347, 356, 383, 412, 439, 443, 457, 481, 488, 489, 500, 580, 599, 619, 654, 659, 676, 677, 685, 687, 731, 737, 740 Seafood, meatless. See Meat AlternativesMeatless Fish, Shellsh, and Other Seafood-like Products Seaweeds, edible. See Sea Vegetables Second Generation Soyfood Products. 285, 383, 443, 481, 599, 685 Seed Certication and Certied Seeds (Soybeans). 98, 273 Seed CleaningEspecially for Food or Seed Planting Uses. 60, 62, 68, 85, 207, 598 Seed Companies and Seedsmen, Early Soybean, Worldwide (Especially Before 1925)Including Siebold & Co., VilmorinAndrieux, Wood & Sons, Haage & Schmidt, Dammann & Co., Peter Henderson, Thorburn & Co., Mark W. Johnson, Johnson & Stokes, Harry N. Hammond, Burpee, E.E. Evans, Funk Bros. Seed Co. 13 Seed Germination or ViabilityNot Including Soy Sprouts. 67 Seed Quality of SoybeansCondition, Grading, and Grades (Moisture, Foreign Material, Damage, etc.). 104, 207, 226, 299, 371 Seed Weight / Size (Soybeans)Weight of 100 Seeds / Grains in Grams, or Number of Seeds Per Pound or Per Kilogram, and Agronomic Signicance of Seed Weight. 20, 44 Seed and plant introduction to the USA. See United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)United States Department of Agriculture (USDA)Section of Foreign Seed and Plant Introduction Seed companies, soybean. See Funk Brothers Seed Co. (Bloomington, Illinois), Hartz (Jacob) Seed Co. (Stuttgart, Arkansas), Monsanto Co. (St. Louis, Missouri), Vilmorin-Andrieux & Co. (France) Seedlings, soybean. See Green Vegetable SoybeansSoybean Seedlings or Their Leaves Served as a Tender Vegetable. Called Doumiao in Chinese Seeds, soybeanVariety development and breeding of soybeans. See Variety Development and Breeding Seitan. See Wheat Gluten Made into Seitan Sensory evaluation. See Taste Panel, Taste Test Results, or Sensory / Organoleptic Evaluation Sesame Butter, Tahini / Tahina / Tahin, Sesame Halva / Halwa, or Sesame Paste. 218, 284, 310, 312, 317, 318, 442, 491, 604, 609, 669, 670, 676, 677, 687, 699, 710, 731 Sesame Oil. 3, 4, 33, 49, 69, 72, 76, 99, 105, 129, 148, 188, 193, 199, 230, 231, 240, 242, 243, 263, 284, 310, 312, 322, 331, 343,
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Silage, soybean. See Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsForage Used for Silage / Ensilage Simply Natural, Inc. (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania). 544, 574, 654, 737 Single Cell Proteins (Photosynthetic, Including Algae / Microalgae Such as Spirulina, Chlorella, and Scenedesmus). 366, 467, 653 Size of soybean seeds. See Seed Weight / Size (Soybeans)Weight of 100 Seeds in Grams, or Number of Seeds Per Pound Sizings for paper or textiles. See Paper Coatings or Sizings, or Textile Sizing Smoked tofu. See Tofu, Smoked Soaps or DetergentsIndustrial Uses of Soy Oil as a Non-Drying Oil. 60, 63, 67, 73, 78, 97, 98, 104, 116, 118, 135, 136, 141, 142, 649 Societe Soy (Saint-Chamond, France). See Soyfoods Companies (Europe)Nutrition et Soja Society for Acclimatization (Socit dAcclimatation, France). 10, 11, 18, 19, 20, 21, 34, 39, 145, 763 Soil ScienceSoil Erosion and Soil Conservation. 273 Soilage, soybean. See Feeds / Forage from Soybean PlantsSoilage and Soiling Sojadoc (Clermond-Ferrand, France). 598 Sojinal / Biosoja (Formerly Cacoja; Afliate of Cooprative Agricole de ColmarIssenheim & Colmar, France). Acquired by B & K Holdings, of Switzerland, in mid-1993. Acquired by Alpro (Belgium) on 22 April 1996. 598 SolventsEthanol (Ethyl Alcohol)Used for Soy Oil Extraction, or Washing / Purication of Soy Products (Protein, Lecithin, Saponins, etc.). 633 SolventsHexaneUsed Mainly for Soy Oil Extraction. 305 Solvents Used for Extraction of the Oil from Soybeans (General, Type of Solvent, Unspecied, or Other). See also Ethanol, Hexane, and Trichloroethylene Solvents. 118, 474, 562, 616, 623 Solvents, industrial. See Release or Curing Agents for Concrete or Asphalt, Industrial Solvents, Hydraulic Fluids, and Other Minor or General Uses
345
Soy Flour, Grits, Meal, Powder, or FlakesFor Food Use (Usually Defatted or Low-Fat). See also Soy FlourWhole or Full-fat. 60, 61, 62, 63, 64, 67, 68, 69, 82, 88, 89, 98, 104, 108, 110, 114, 116, 117, 118, 129, 130, 132, 135, 141, 142, 145, 148, 152, 153, 155, 156, 162, 163, 164, 169, 183, 186, 192, 275, 283, 284, 299, 302, 303, 305, 309, 321, 323, 336, 345, 346, 354, 366, 371, 374, 376, 408, 413, 427, 428, 431, 440, 442, 446, 447, 457, 476, 477, 509, 512, 517, 520, 539, 541, 549, 562, 568, 573, 575, 592, 605, 610, 616, 617, 623, 630, 633, 638, 642, 673, 687, 691, 720, 726, 740 Soy Flour, Grits, and FlakesEnzyme Active (Whole / Full-Fat, Unheated). 496, 584 Soy Flour, Textured (Including TVP, Textured Vegetable Protein). 340, 388, 427, 477, 533, 617, 619 Soy Ice Cream (GeneralUsually Non-Dairy). 129, 155, 275, 305, 309, 321, 323, 347, 374, 383, 443, 476, 481, 508, 515, 520, 573, 575, 599, 630, 673, 685, 687, 691, 726, 740 Soy Ice CreamEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 321, 323, 515, 740 Soy Ice CreamNon-Soy Non-Dairy Relatives (As Made from Amazake, Fruit Juices, Peanuts, Field Peas, etc.). 76 Soy Ice Cream Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 630 Soy Ice Cream Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesIndividual Companies. 630 Soy Nugget Extract (Shizhi / Shih Chih), and Soy Nugget Sauce (Mandarin: Shiyou / Shih-yu. Cantonese: Shi-yau / Si-yau / Seow. Japanese: Kuki-jiru). See also Black Bean Sauce. 3, 85, 386, 417, 442, 467, 676 Soy NuggetsEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 87, 117, 129, 172, 222, 560, 676 Soy NuggetsWhole Soybeans Fermented with SaltAlso called Fermented Black Beans, Salted Black Beans, Salty Black Beans, Black Fermented Beans, Black Beans, Black Bean Sauce, Black Bean and Ginger Sauce, Chinese Black Beans, Fermented Black Soybeans, Preserved Black Beans or Preserved Chinese Black Beans. In Chinese (Mandarin): Shi, Doushi, or Douchi (pinyin), Tou-shih, Toushih, or Tou-chih (Wade-Giles). Cantonese: Dow see, Dow si, Dow-si, Dowsi, or Do shih. In the Philippines: Tausi or Taosi / Tao-si. In Malaysia or Thailand: Tao si. In Indonesia: Tao dji, Tao-dji, or Tao-djie. In Japan: Hamanatto, Daitokuji Natto, Shiokara Natto, and Tera Natto. 1, 2, 4, 6, 20, 21, 33, 34, 39, 67, 69, 83, 87, 94, 98, 104, 117, 123, 129, 142, 149, 150, 153, 162, 171, 172, 177, 178, 179, 181, 188, 196, 198, 199, 203, 207, 210, 214, 219, 221, 222, 223, 225, 227, 228, 230, 234, 239, 240, 241, 243, 244, 245, 247, 262, 263, 264, 266, 268, 272, 275, 276, 280, 282, 287, 290, 291, 294, 299, 303, 305, 306, 307, 314, 317, 318, 321, 323, 327, 328, 335, 336, 337, 343, 345, 346, 352, 354, 356, 359, 365, 370, 371, 372, 373, 374, 377, 382, 387, 390, 393, 395, 397,
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Soy ProteinsProperties (Including Types {Globulins, Glycinin, Beta- and Gamma-Conglycinin} Protein Fractions and Subunits, Sedimentation Coefcients, Nitrogen Solubility, and Rheology). 68, 299, 371, 504, 562 Soy Proteins, Textured (General). 299, 300, 371, 408, 503, 529, 562, 584, 616, 649 Soy Puddings, Custards, Parfaits, or Mousses (Usually made from Soymilk or Tofu). See also Soy YogurtNot Fermented. 74, 82, 129, 141, 317, 318, 321, 322, 323, 383, 439, 443, 481, 488, 496, 509, 573, 598, 599, 685, 740 Soy Sauce (Including Shoyu and Worcestershire Sauce)Imports, Exports, International Trade. 18, 26, 82, 97, 172, 604 Soy Sauce (Including Shoyu), HomemadeHow to Make at Home or on a Laboratory Scale, by Hand. 167 Soy Sauce (Including Shoyu). See Also Tamari, Teriyaki Sauce, and Traditional Worcestershire Sauce. 1, 3, 4, 6, 14, 18, 20, 21, 24, 27, 29, 32, 33, 34, 39, 40, 44, 54, 55, 58, 60, 62, 63, 64, 67, 68, 69, 74, 76, 77, 79, 82, 83, 84, 85, 88, 91, 93, 95, 97, 98, 100, 101, 104, 105, 107, 108, 109, 110, 114, 116, 117, 118, 123, 128, 129, 132, 136, 137, 138, 139, 140, 141, 142, 144, 145, 147, 153, 154, 156, 162, 167, 168, 169, 170, 171, 172, 174, 176, 177, 179, 181, 183, 186, 187, 188, 192, 193, 194, 196, 199, 205, 207, 209, 210, 212, 214, 217, 218, 220, 222, 223, 225, 226, 227, 231, 234, 237, 239, 241, 243, 244, 245, 247, 256, 261, 263, 264, 266, 268, 272, 273, 275, 276, 281, 282, 287, 290, 293, 294, 297, 299, 300, 302, 303, 305, 306, 307, 308, 311, 312, 315, 317, 318, 320, 327, 328, 332, 333, 334, 337, 338, 343, 344, 345, 346, 352, 354, 355, 356, 361, 364, 365, 367, 371, 376, 377, 378, 379, 383, 388, 391, 393, 395, 397, 401, 402, 404, 405, 406, 407, 408, 411, 412, 413, 414, 417, 418, 419, 422, 424, 425, 427, 428, 431, 437, 439, 440, 442, 443, 445, 446, 447, 457, 458, 459, 460, 461, 462, 467, 473, 474, 477, 478, 481, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 490, 494, 499, 506, 509, 511, 512, 514, 515, 517, 520, 523, 528, 530, 531, 532, 533, 535, 537, 538, 539, 541, 543, 547, 548, 549, 551, 552, 556, 557, 559, 560, 562, 566, 567, 568, 569, 571, 573, 578, 579, 580, 581, 583, 584, 587, 588, 589, 591, 594, 599, 601, 602, 604, 606, 616, 617, 622, 624, 628, 630, 638, 642, 643, 649, 653, 656, 658, 661, 663, 669, 670, 671, 676, 677, 679, 680, 681, 683, 685, 687, 688, 693, 700, 702, 707, 710, 711, 717, 720, 731, 738, 741, 743, 746, 748, 752, 754 Soy SauceSaishikomi Shoyu (Twice-Brewed). 425 Soy SauceTaiwanese Black Bean Sauce (Inyu), Made from Black Soybean (Glycine soja Sieb and Zucc) Koji. A Type of Soy Nugget Sauce. 386, 417, 467, 653 Soy Sauce Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 82, 346, 386, 413, 417, 425, 427, 520, 630
347
Soy our companies (Europe). See Spillers Premier Products Ltd. (Puckeridge, Ware, Hertfordshire, England) Soy our, roasted. See Roasted soy our Soy ice cream companies (USA). See Tofutti Brands, Inc. (Cranford, New Jersey) Soy infant formula. See Infant Formula, Soy-based Soy is NOT Mentioned in the Document. 121, 204 Soy lecithin. See Lecithin, Soy Soy oilindustry and market statistics. See Soybean Crushing Soy protein companies (USA). See Glidden Co. (The), Laucks (I.F.) Co., Protein Technologies International (PTI) Soy sauceKorean-style. See KanjangKorean-Style Fermented Soy Sauce Soy sauce companies (Asia & USA). See Yamasa Corporation (Choshi, Japan; and Salem, Oregon) Soy sauce companies (international). See Higeta (Choshi, Japan), Kikkoman Corporation (Tokyo, Walworth, Wisconsin; and Worldwide) Soy sauce companies or brands (USA). See Oriental Show-You Co Soy sauce residue or dregs. See FiberResidue or Dregs from Making Soy Sauce Soy sauce used in Worcestershire sauce. See Worcestershire Sauce With Soy Sauce Used as an Ingredient Soy sauce. See Hoisin / Haisien Sauce, Tamari, Teriyaki Sauce and Teriyaki (Soy Sauce is the Main Sauce Ingredient), Worcestershire Sauce Soy whip topping. See Whip Topping Soy wine. See Fermented Specialty Soyfoods Soya Foods Ltd [Named Soya Flour Manufacturing Co. Ltd. (192942), and Soya Foods Ltd. (1933)]. See Spillers Premier Products Ltd. Soya Health Foods Ltd. (Manchester, England). Including Michael Cole and his Soya International Ltd. 598 Soya Kaas Inc. See Swan Gardens Inc. and Soya Kaas Inc. Soyana (Zurich, Switzerland). 480, 598 Soyastern Naturkost GmbH / Dorstener Tofu Produktions GmbH (Dorsten, Germany). Acquired by Huegli in April 1991. 598 SoybeanGeneral Comprehensive and Basic Important Publications
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Soybean Meal (SBM) (Defatted). Formerly Called Bean Cake, Beancake, Soybean Cake, Oilmeal, or Presscake. 10, 18, 29, 33, 42, 44, 49, 53, 54, 60, 63, 67, 69, 73, 82, 83, 85, 87, 98, 107, 110, 117, 142, 152, 156, 162, 163, 172, 179, 181, 186, 219, 302, 305, 372, 417, 474, 487, 536, 541, 549, 562, 568, 616, 617, 618 Soybean Meal / Cake, Fiber (as from Okara), or Shoyu Presscake as a Fertilizer or Manure for the SoilIndustrial Uses. 10, 44, 47, 57, 67, 70, 73, 83, 98, 104, 118, 142 Soybean ProductionGeneral, and Amount Produced. 88, 110, 172, 217, 345, 366, 446, 520, 549, 615, 617, 618, 630, 752 Soybean ProductionIndustry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses. 273, 345, 371, 446, 496, 520, 549, 615, 617, 630 Soybean Rust (Fungal Disease). 153 Soybean SeedsBlack in Color. Food Use is Not Mentioned. 33, 34, 39, 59, 69, 73, 98, 132, 210, 241, 457, 467 Soybean SeedsBlack in Color. Used as Food (Including in Soy Nuggets and Inyu), Beverage, Feed, or Medicine, or Their Nutritional Value. 1, 20, 44, 67, 74, 83, 108, 123, 196, 212, 221, 234, 242, 243, 276, 282, 317, 318, 321, 323, 328, 336, 337, 343, 354, 386, 412, 417, 440, 461, 465, 476, 523, 530, 548, 560, 571, 573, 587, 654, 659, 663, 673, 676, 677, 687, 691, 726, 731, 737, 740 Soybean SeedsBrown in Color. Especially Early Records. 20, 67 Soybean SeedsGreen in Color. Food Use is Not Mentioned. Early Named Varieties Include Aoda, Columbia, Giant Green, Guelph or Medium Green, Medium Early Green, Medium Green, Samarow, Sonoma, and Tashing. 1, 10, 20, 44, 59, 67, 82 Soybean SeedsGreen in Color. Used as Food, Beverage, Feed, or Medicine, or Their Nutritional Value. 44, 108 Soybean SeedsMottled, Speckled, Spotted, Striped, Banded, Flecked, Variegated, or Bicolored. 1, 20, 59 Soybean SeedsRed in Color. 59 Soybean SeedsWhite in Color. 1, 20, 44, 65, 75, 83 Soybean SeedsYellow in Color. Including Yellowish White, Cream Colored, and Pale (Pallida). Especially Early Records. See also: Soybean SeedsWhite. 1, 4, 10, 18, 19, 20, 33, 44, 59, 67, 69, 73, 82 Soybean Varieties USAAgateLarge-Seeded and / or VegetableType. 601 Soybean Varieties USABarchetEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USABiloxiEarly Introduction. 73, 82, 132
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Soybean Varieties USAVirginiaEarly Selection (1907). 73, 132 Soybean Varieties USAChiquitaEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USAWilsonEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USAEdaEarly Introduction. 98 Soybean Varieties USAGuelphEarly Introduction. 73, 98 Soybean Varieties USAHaberlandtEarly Introduction. 58, 73 Soybean Varieties USAHahtoEarly Introduction. Large-Seeded and / or Vegetable-Type. 132, 601 Soybean Varieties USAHollybrookEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USAIto SanEarly Introduction. Synonyms Medium Early Yellow, Early White, Early Yellow, Kaiyuski Daizu, Kiyusuki Daidzu, Kysuki, Yellow Eda Mame, Dwarf Early Yellow, Early, Eda Mame, Coffee Berry. 73, 98, 132 Soybean Varieties USAKanrichLarge-Seeded and / or VegetableType. 601 Soybean Varieties USAKingstonEarly Introduction. 98 Soybean Varieties USALexingtonEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USAMammothEarly Introduction. 73, 98 Soybean Varieties USAMammoth YellowEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USAManchuEarly Introduction. 73, 132 Soybean Varieties USAMandarinEarly Introduction. 132 Soybean Varieties USAMedium GreenEarly Introduction. 98 Soybean Varieties USAMedium YellowEarly Selection (1905). Renamed Midwest by 1923. 73 Soybean Varieties USAOgemaw / OgemaEarly Development. SynonymDwarf Brown (Morse 1948). 98 Soybean Varieties USAPeking / PekinEarly Selection (1907). 73, 132 Soybean Varieties USAPrizeLarge-Seeded and / or VegetableType. 601 Soybean Varieties USASamarowEarly Introduction. 98 Soybean Varieties USAShanghaiEarly Introduction. 73 Soybean Varieties USATokyo / TokioEarly Introduction. 73, 132 Soybean Varieties USAVintonLarge-Seeded and / or VegetableSoybean Varieties USAWilson-Five / Wilson Five / Wilson 5 / Wilson-5 / Wilson VEarly Selection (1912). 132 Soybean crushers (Asia). See Ajinomoto Co. Inc. (Tokyo, Japan), Hohnen Oil Co., Ltd. (Tokyo, Japan) Soybean crushers (Canada). See ADM Agri-Industries Ltd. (Windsor, Ontario, Canada), CanAmera Foods (Hamilton, Ontario, Canada), Victory Soya Mills Ltd. (Toronto, Ontario) Soybean crushers (Europe). See Vandemoortele N.V. (Izegem, Netherlands) Soybean crushers (USA), Cooperative. See Farmers Union Grain Terminal Association (GTA), Honeymead (Mankato, Minnesota) Soybean crushers (USA). See Archer Daniels Midland Co. (ADM) (Decatur, Illinois), Cargill, Inc. (Minneapolis, Minneapolis), Central Soya Co. (Fort Wayne, Indiana), Pillsbury Feed Mills and Pillsbury Co. (Minneapolis, Minnesota), Ralston Purina Co. (St. Louis, Missouri), Shellabarger Grain Co. / Shellabarger Soybean Mills (Decatur, Illinois), Staley (A.E.) Manufacturing Co. (Decatur,, Swift & Co. (Illinois) Soybean crushingsolvents. See Solvents Soybean koji. See Koji, Soybean Soybean oil. See Soy Oil Soybean paste. See Miso Soybean processing. See Soybean Crushing Soybean productionFarm Machinery. See Tractors Soybean productionFarm equipment. See Machinery (Agricultural), Implements, Equipment, and Mechanization Soybean productionMarketing. See Marketing Soybeans Soybean productionPlant protection. See Diseases (Bacterial, Fungal, and Viral / Virus), InsectsPest Control. See also: Integrated Pest Management, NematodesDisease Control, Pesticides (General), WeedsControl and Herbicide Use Soybean production. SeeFertilizers and Plant Nutrition, Crop Rotation of Soybean Plants for Soil Improvement, Cropping Systems: Intercropping, Interplanting, or Mixed Cropping, Cultural Practices, Green Manure, Harvesting and Threshing, Identity Preserved / Preservation, Organically Grown Soybeans,
350
France), Manna Natural Foods (Amsterdam, The Netherlands), Migros & Conserves Estavayer (Estavayer-le-Lac, Switzerland), Nutrition et Soja, Div. of Nutrition et Sant (Revel near Toulouse, France). Formerly Socit Soy, Sojinal / Biosoja (Formerly Cacoja), Soya Health Foods Ltd. (Manchester, England), Soyana (Zurich, Switzerland), Triballat (Noyal-sur-Vilaine, France). Makers of Sojasun Soyfoods companies (USA). See Farm Food Co. (San Rafael, then San Francisco, California), Farm Foods, and Farm Soy Dairy, Hain Celestial Group, Inc. (Uniondale, New York), Lightlife Foods, Inc. (Turners Falls, Massachusetts), Rella Good Cheese Co. (Santa Rosa, California). Previously Brightsong Tofu, White Wave, Inc. (Boulder, Colorado) Soyfoods movement. See Farm (The) (Summertown, Tennessee), Rodale Press (Emmaus, Pennsylvania), Soyfoods Association of North America (SANA), Soyfoods Restaurants or Delis, New Soyfoods restaurants or delis. See Soyfoods MovementSoyfoods Restaurants or Delis Soyinfo Center (Lafayette, California). Named Soyfoods Center until 1 Jan. 2007. 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 335, 347, 359, 363, 374, 375, 380, 383, 384, 427, 430, 443, 446, 463, 467, 469, 470, 471, 472, 476, 477, 481, 489, 494, 520, 522, 526, 575, 597, 598, 599, 630, 653, 673, 685, 691, 706, 726, 735, 740 SoymilkEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 9, 35, 52, 57, 82, 148 SoymilkImports, Exports, International Trade. 494 Soymilk Equipment Companies (Europe). See APV Systems, Soya Technology Division. Formerly named Danish Turnkey Dairies Ltd., Alfa-Laval (Lund, Sweden), Tetra Pak International (Lund, Sweden) Soymilk Equipment. 57, 70 Soymilk Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 427, 446, 509, 520, 630 Soymilk Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses Larger Companies. 283, 446, 494, 520, 630
Soymilk companies (Europe). See Alpro (Wevelgem, Belgium), Plamil Foods Ltd. (Folkestone, Kent, England) and The Plantmilk Society Soymilk companies (USA). See Vitasoy, WholeSoy & Co. (subsidiary of TAN Industries, Inc., California) Soymilk curds. See Curds Made from Soymilk
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New Year) in Japan and Parched Soybeans. 42, 82, 98, 110, 124, 129, 130, 132, 136, 141, 172, 181, 209, 219, 275, 309, 321, 323, 327, 336, 346, 374, 376, 427, 439, 446, 447, 460, 476, 506, 509, 517, 520, 538, 539, 541, 584, 630, 633, 673, 687, 691, 693, 720, 726, 740 Soynuts Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 427, 520, 630 Soynuts Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and Analyses Individual Companies. 520, 630 Space Travel or NASA Bioregenerative Life Support Systems. 611 Spillers Premier Products Ltd. (Puckeridge, Ware, Hertfordshire, England). Including Soya Foods Ltd [Named Soya Flour Manufacturing Co. Ltd. (1929-42), and Soya Foods Ltd. (1933)]. And incorporating British Soya Products (1932). 141 Sprouts. See Soy Sprouts Spun soy protein bers. See Soy ProteinsTextured Soy Protein Isolates Sri Lanka. See Asia, SouthSri Lanka Staley (A.E.) Manufacturing Co. (Decatur, Illinois; Acquired by Tate & Lyle PLC in June 1988). 141, 152, 520 Standardization of nomenclature of soybean varieties. See Nomenclature of Soybean VarietiesStandardization of and Confusion Standards, Applied to Soybeans or Soy Products. 299, 371, 446, 517, 520, 562, 630 Starter culture for tempeh. See Tempeh Starter Culture, Spores, or Inoculum Statistics on soybean production, area and stocks. See individual geographic regions (such as Asia, Europe, Latin America, United States, etc.) and nations within each region Statistics on soybean production. See Soybean Production and TradeIndustry and Market Statistics, Statistics on soybean yields. See Yield Statistics, Soybean Statistics. See Industry and Market Analyses and Statistics, the specic product concerned, e.g. Tofu Industry and Market Statistics Sterols or Steroid Hormones in Soybeans (PhytosterolsIncluding Beta-Sitosterol, Campesterol, and Stigmasterol from Which Steroids Such as Progesterone, Hydrocortisone, and Cortisone Can Be Made). 541 Stinky tofu, etymology. See Tofu, FermentedStinky Tofu (Chou Doufu). Etymology of This Term Stinky tofu. See Tofu, FermentedStinky Tofu (Chou Doufu).
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TaucoIndonesian-Style Fermented Soybean Paste. Also Spelled Taucho, Tauceo, Tau Chiow, Taoco, Tao-Tjo, Taotjo, Taocho, Taoetjo. 123, 142, 234, 276, 327, 333, 352, 397, 401, 406, 440, 459, 560, 584, 610 Taxonomy. See SoybeanTaxonomy Tempeh (Spelled Tmp in Malay-Indonesian). 110, 123, 142, 186, 192, 233, 234, 237, 245, 247, 248, 249, 261, 266, 268, 272, 275, 276, 280, 287, 290, 292, 293, 294, 297, 299, 302, 303, 305, 307, 313, 320, 321, 323, 327, 331, 333, 334, 335, 338, 339, 342, 345, 346, 352, 361, 364, 365, 366, 367, 371, 374, 376, 378, 379, 382, 392, 395, 396, 397, 401, 402, 403, 404, 408, 413, 419, 422, 425, 427, 428, 431, 437, 439, 440, 442, 446, 447, 449, 455, 457, 458, 459, 462, 465, 467, 473, 476, 478, 479, 487, 488, 489, 490, 497, 499, 501, 502, 506, 509, 510, 512, 515, 517, 520, 522, 523, 528, 529, 532, 533, 536, 538, 540, 541, 543, 545, 549, 551, 552, 556, 560, 562, 566, 567, 568, 569, 573, 575, 578, 581, 582, 584, 587, 588, 592, 594, 595, 600, 601, 605, 607, 608, 609, 610, 616, 617, 619, 622, 624, 625, 630, 633, 642, 649, 653, 654, 656, 658, 660, 661, 662, 669, 670, 671, 673, 676, 677, 678, 683, 687, 691, 693, 702, 705, 709, 710, 716, 720, 726, 731, 733, 734, 737, 740, 741, 743, 747, 748, 754, 760, 762 TempehEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 123, 142, 320 TempehRhizopus Molds Are Discussed Without Mentioning Tempeh. 121, 204, 232 Tempeh Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 427, 446, 509, 520, 630
Tempeh Starter Culture, Spores, or Inoculum (Called Ragi Tempe or Usar in Indonesia). 342, 523 Tempeh, HomemadeHow to Make at Home or on a Laboratory Scale, by Hand. 528 Tempeh, Non-Soy RelativesOnchom (Oncom, Ontjom)A cake of Peanut Presscake or Okara (Oncom Tahu) Fermented with Neurospora (Monilia sitophila = Oidium lupuli) molds. 121, 123, 142, 186, 234, 247, 276, 294, 302, 327, 333, 334, 346, 365, 379, 401, 422, 458, 459, 462, 528, 551, 552, 556, 560, 569, 584, 587, 609, 610, 622, 677, 702, 731 Tempeh, Non-Soy RelativesOther Substrates Such as Winged Beans, Lupins, Velvet Beans, Brown Rice, Cassava, etc. 268, 601 Tempeh, Non-Soy RelativesTempeh BongkrekA Cake of Fermented Coconut Presscake or Grated Coconut. 234, 379, 401, 567, 622 Tempeh, Okara (Okara Tempeh), Incl. Mei Dou Za, Mei-TouCha, Meitauza from China, and Tempe Gembus (from Central and
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413, 414, 419, 420, 421, 424, 425, 427, 428, 429, 430, 432, 436, 439, 440, 442, 443, 444, 445, 446, 447, 450, 451, 454, 456, 457, 460, 461, 463, 465, 469, 472, 473, 474, 476, 477, 480, 481, 484, 485, 486, 487, 488, 489, 490, 496, 497, 498, 500, 501, 502, 503, 504, 506, 508, 509, 510, 512, 515, 516, 517, 518, 519, 520, 529, 530, 531, 532, 533, 536, 537, 538, 539, 541, 554, 555, 557, 561, 562, 564, 565, 568, 570, 575, 576, 578, 579, 580, 581, 583, 584, 589, 590, 592, 594, 596, 597, 598, 599, 600, 601, 604, 605, 606, 608, 609, 611, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 623, 624, 625, 626, 629, 630, 631, 633, 636, 637, 638, 641, 642, 643, 644, 646, 647, 649, 654, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, 666, 667, 669, 670, 671, 673, 676, 677, 678, 683, 685, 687, 690, 691, 692, 695, 696, 698, 699, 700, 702, 703, 705, 706, 707, 710, 711, 717, 720, 722, 723, 724, 726, 727, 728, 731, 733, 736, 737, 740, 741, 742, 744, 745, 746, 750, 751, 752, 755, 759, 760, 763 Tofu (all kinds)Imports, Exports, International Trade. 12, 26 TofuEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 10, 20, 63, 64, 65, 92, 97, 99, 108, 117, 123, 187, 195, 196, 203, 282, 303, 321, 323, 346, 372, 375, 383, 405, 428, 430, 440, 443, 481, 599, 663, 685, 740 Tofu Equipment. 57, 59, 67, 70, 347, 383, 443, 481, 599, 685 Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 279, 321, 323, 346, 348, 413, 427, 446, 496, 509, 520, 570, 603, 630, 740 Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesLarger Companies. 444, 498, 501, 520, 630 Tofu Industry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesSmaller Companies. 363, 491 Tofu International Ltd. and Rosewood Products Inc. (Ann Arbor, Michigan) (The Soy Plant before 1987). 362, 450 Tofu Kit or Press (Kits or Presses Used for Making Tofu at Home). 430 Tofu ProductionHow to Make Tofu on a Commercial Scale. 207, 323, 492, 696 Tofu companies (Europe). See Cauldron Foods Ltd. (Bristol, England), Heuschen-Schrouff B.V. (Landgraaf, Netherlands), Sojadoc (Clermond-Ferrand, France), Soyastern Naturkost GmbH / Dorstener Tofu Produktions GmbH (Dorsten, Germany) Tofu companies (USA). See Azumaya, Inc. (San Francisco, California), House Foods America Corporation (Los Angeles, California), Island Spring, Inc. (Vashon, Washington), Morinaga Nutritional Foods, Inc., and Morinaga Nygy (Torrance, California, and Tokyo, Japan), Nasoya Foods, Inc. (Leominster, Massachusetts). Subsidiary of Vitasoy, Northern Soy, Inc. (Rochester, New York), Ota Tofu Co. (Portland, Oregon. Founded in 1911), Quong Hop & Co. (South San Francisco, California), Simply Natural, Inc. (Philadelphia, Pennsylvania), Swan Gardens Inc. and Soya Kaas Inc. (Atlanta, Georgia), Tofu International Ltd. and Rosewood Products Inc. (Ann Arbor, Michigan), Tomsun
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581, 582, 583, 584, 585, 586, 587, 588, 589, 590, 591, 592, 593, 594, 595, 596, 597, 598, 599, 600, 601, 602, 603, 604, 605, 606, 607, 608, 609, 610, 611, 612, 613, 614, 615, 616, 617, 618, 619, 620, 621, 622, 623, 624, 625, 626, 627, 628, 629, 630, 631, 632, 633, 634, 635, 636, 637, 638, 639, 640, 641, 642, 643, 644, 646, 647, 648, 649, 650, 651, 652, 653, 654, 655, 656, 657, 658, 659, 660, 661, 662, 663, 664, 665, 666, 667, 668, 669, 670, 671, 672, 673, 674, 675, 676, 677, 678, 679, 680, 681, 682, 683, 684, 685, 686, 687, 688, 689, 690, 691, 692, 693, 694, 695, 696, 697, 698, 699, 700, 701, 702, 703, 704, 705, 706, 708, 709, 710, 711, 712, 713, 714, 715, 716, 717, 718, 719, 720, 721, 722, 723, 724, 725, 726, 727, 728, 729, 730, 731, 732, 733, 734, 735, 736, 737, 738, 739, 740, 741, 742, 743, 744, 745, 746, 747, 748, 749, 750, 751, 752, 753, 754, 755, 757, 758, 760, 761, 762, 763 Tofu, FermentedEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 2, 3, 11, 12, 26, 28, 31, 33, 41, 43, 44, 46, 47, 55, 57, 63, 65, 72, 75, 82, 84, 90, 96, 99, 104, 109, 112, 113, 119, 122, 126, 132, 140, 143, 149, 164, 168, 169, 172, 175, 178, 180, 188, 190, 191, 192, 193, 194, 196, 197, 198, 210, 213, 219, 232, 234, 256, 264, 270, 277, 279, 293, 312, 318, 324, 347, 351, 352, 374, 375, 417, 494, 526, 637, 732 Tofu, FermentedImports, Exports, International Trade. 12, 85, 129 Tofu, FermentedStinky Tofu (pinyin: Chou Doufu (W.-G. Chou Toufu). Also Called, Stinking, Smelly or Redolent Tofu / Bean Curd). 3, 9, 33, 111, 124, 128, 131, 157, 178, 233, 278, 322, 325, 353, 355, 384, 385, 399, 400, 409, 417, 419, 441, 455, 457, 460, 496, 550, 553, 557, 560, 579, 613, 636, 655, 668, 670, 677, 684, 689, 701, 703, 706, 722, 725, 727, 729, 730, 731, 745, 746, 749, 761 Tofu, FermentedStinky Tofu (Chou Doufu). Etymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 33, 124, 128, 278, 355, 384, 417, 441, 457, 496, 636, 668, 745 Tofu, FermentedTofuyo from Okinawa, Japan (Made with Red Rice {Beni-Koji} Containing Monascus purpureus). 7, 8, 146, 151, 224, 251, 269, 296, 357, 358, 368, 386, 416, 452, 466, 483, 492, 502, 505, 507, 510, 516, 518, 522, 524, 526, 527, 534, 546, 570, 593, 596, 610, 614, 620, 632, 635, 639, 645, 648, 650, 651, 665, 672, 682, 713, 718, 719, 733, 734, 753, 756, 757, 758, 759, 762 Tofu, Firm (Incl. Doufu-gan). 203 Tofu, Five-Spice Pressed (Wu-hsiang Toufukan / Wuxiang Doufugan). 9, 14, 99, 221, 243, 321, 323, 383, 412, 443, 481, 599, 685, 740 Tofu, Flavored / Seasoned / Marinated and Baked, Broiled, Grilled, Braised, or Roasted. Including Tofu Jerky and Savory Baked Tofu. 383, 410, 443, 481, 599, 685 Tofu, Flavored, Seasoned, or Marinated, but not Baked, Broiled, Grilled, Braised, or Roasted. Including most Five-Spice Pressed Tofu (wu-hsiang toufukan / wuxiang doufugan). 9, 14, 99, 221, 321, 323, 412, 698, 740 Tofu, Fried (Especially Pouches, Puffs, Cutlets, or Burgers; Ag or
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Tomato ketchup. See Ketchup, Tomato (Tomato Ketchup, WesternStyle) Tomsun Foods, Inc. (Greeneld, Massachusetts; Port Washington, New York. Named New England Soy Dairy from 1978-1983). 446, 520 Toxins and Toxicity in Foods and FeedsAatoxins (Caused by certain strains of Aspergillus avus and A. parasiticus molds). 245, 280, 405, 422, 437, 602, 624 Toxins and Toxicity in Foods and FeedsBongkrek Poisoning, Caused by Either Bongkrek Acid or Toxoavin Produced in Some Coconut Tempeh by the Aerobic Bacteria Pseudomonas cocovenenans. 234, 379 Tractors. 85 Trade (InternationalImports, Exports) of Soybeans, Soy Oil, and / or Soybean Meal. See also TradeTariffs and Duties. 47, 49, 53, 61, 65, 73, 78, 82, 98, 104, 117, 118, 141, 142, 145, 172, 207, 273, 346, 509, 549, 617, 631, 678 Trade Policies (International) Concerning Soybeans, Soy Products, or SoyfoodsTariffs, Duties, Embargoes, Moratoriums, and Other Trade Barriers or Subsidies. 73 Trade of Soyfoods (Import and Export, not Including Soy Oil or Soybean Meal, but Including Lecithin and Margarine) or Soyfoods Manufacturing Equipment. See also: Soy SauceImports, Exports. MisoImports, Exports. 18, 44, 45, 51, 82, 97, 189, 494, 604 Transcaucasia. See Asia, Transcaucasia (Presently Armenia, Azerbaijan, and Georgia) Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Railroad / Railway / Rail within a Particular Country or Region. See also Railroads / Railways and Special Trains Used to Promote Soybeans and Soybean Production. 53, 104, 169 Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Roads or Highways Using Trucks, Carts, etc. within a Particular Country or Region. 104 Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Water (Rivers, Lakes) Using Junks, Barges, etc. within a Particular Country or Region. 10, 73 Triballat (Noyal-sur-Vilaine, France). Makers of Sojasun; and its Afliate Bonneterre (Rungis Cedex, France). 598 Trucks or Carts used to transport soybeans. See Transportation of Soybeans or Soy Products to Market by Roads or Highways Trypsin / Protease / Proteinase Inhibitors. 440, 622, 623 Turkey. See Asia, Middle EastTurkey Turkeys Fed Soybeans, Soybean Forage, or Soybean Cake or Meal as Feed. 141
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TVP. See Soy Flours, Textured (Including TVP, Textured Vegetable Protein) Umeboshi or ume-boshi (Japanese salt plums / pickled plums), Plum Products, and the Japanese Plum Tree (Prunus mum) from whose fruit they are made. 337, 354, 619, 656, 676, 677, 731 Unfair PracticesIncluding Possible Deceptive / Misleading Labeling, Advertising, etc. See also: Adulteration. 47, 574 United Kingdom. See Europe, WesternUnited Kingdom United Nations (Including UNICEF, FAO, UNDP, UNESCO, and UNRRA) Work with Soy. 233, 273, 283, 287, 311, 346, 455, 616 United StatesStatesAlabama. 73, 362 United StatesStatesAlaska. 308 United StatesStatesArkansas. 371, 381, 465, 562, 658, 671 United StatesStatesCalifornia. 15, 16, 23, 25, 45, 50, 51, 91, 92, 96, 130, 144, 169, 182, 187, 189, 190, 191, 193, 210, 211, 216, 227, 228, 229, 230, 239, 240, 260, 263, 279, 295, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 328, 330, 341, 347, 354, 356, 360, 369, 374, 380, 383, 410, 415, 419, 427, 430, 432, 443, 446, 453, 457, 461, 463, 464, 476, 477, 481, 489, 494, 495, 498, 520, 525, 526, 531, 574, 575, 579, 580, 585, 595, 597, 599, 601, 603, 611, 630, 633, 638, 663, 673, 685, 691, 693, 706, 726, 727, 735, 740, 746, 749, 751, 752, 755, 763 United StatesStatesColorado. 650 United StatesStatesConnecticut. 17, 43, 141, 606
United StatesStatesKansas. 98, 142, 168, 622 United StatesStatesKentucky. 73, 194, 588 United StatesStatesLouisiana. 299, 589 United StatesStatesMaine. 599 United StatesStatesMaryland. 141, 142, 169, 542, 587, 760 United StatesStatesMassachusetts. 93, 98, 141, 142, 178, 202, 301, 311, 338, 446, 465, 480, 520, 574, 630, 682 United StatesStatesMichigan. 136, 141, 152, 239, 362, 450, 763 United StatesStatesMinnesota. 239, 504, 584 United StatesStatesMississippi. 73, 82, 142 United StatesStatesMissouri. 73, 141, 142, 465, 720 United StatesStatesMontana. 308 United StatesStatesNebraska. 73 United StatesStatesNevada. 489, 498 United StatesStatesNew Jersey. 141, 304, 340, 544 United StatesStatesNew York. 72, 73, 74, 77, 80, 81, 141, 142, 148, 164, 168, 198, 210, 214, 231, 243, 263, 288, 295, 298, 331, 394, 412, 439, 467, 475, 488, 508, 563, 564, 574, 604, 612, 619, 633, 647, 653, 657, 664, 674, 682, 703, 704, 733 United StatesStatesNorth Carolina. 73, 81, 88, 98, 142, 168
United StatesStatesDelaware. 73 United StatesStatesOhio. 73, 141, 142, 212, 219, 465, 470 United StatesStatesDistrict of Columbia (Washington, DC). 42, 73, 74, 81, 82, 90, 91, 95, 98, 110, 119, 141, 160, 168, 310, 733 United StatesStatesFlorida. 168, 504, 676, 723 United StatesStatesGeorgia. 141, 364, 365, 566, 682, 742 United StatesStatesHawaii. 67, 73, 82, 98, 100, 142, 160, 172, 203, 501, 666, 763 United StatesStatesIdaho. 308, 741 United StatesStatesIllinois. 55, 73, 98, 141, 142, 166, 170, 174, 176, 179, 181, 183, 194, 195, 204, 207, 219, 234, 235, 239, 245, 246, 247, 266, 267, 272, 276, 277, 280, 287, 292, 294, 300, 305, 313, 342, 346, 355, 376, 382, 397, 401, 402, 403, 404, 422, 428, 437, 462, 478, 490, 497, 523, 551, 552, 559, 560, 581, 587, 590, 591, 602, 607, 616, 624, 748 United StatesStatesIndiana. 73, 136, 141, 142 United StatesStatesWashington state. 141, 193, 308, 498 United StatesStatesIowa. 142, 207, 633, 642, 760 United StatesStatesOklahoma. 73 United StatesStatesOregon. 193, 227, 308, 597, 628 United StatesStatesPennsylvania. 76, 141, 331, 335, 597, 763 United StatesStatesSouth Carolina. 73 United StatesStatesTennessee. 73, 141, 202, 323, 340, 346, 388, 515 United StatesStatesTexas. 73, 299, 309, 371 United StatesStatesUtah. 588 United StatesStatesVermont. 442 United StatesStatesVirginia. 73, 97, 458, 556, 683
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268, 270, 272, 274, 276, 277, 279, 280, 283, 287, 288, 289, 292, 294, 295, 298, 299, 300, 301, 304, 305, 307, 308, 309, 310, 311, 313, 316, 321, 322, 323, 324, 325, 330, 331, 335, 336, 338, 340, 341, 342, 346, 347, 354, 355, 360, 361, 362, 363, 364, 365, 366, 367, 369, 371, 374, 376, 380, 381, 382, 383, 384, 388, 394, 395, 397, 401, 402, 403, 404, 408, 410, 412, 413, 414, 415, 419, 421, 422, 425, 427, 428, 430, 431, 432, 434, 437, 438, 439, 442, 443, 446, 450, 451, 453, 457, 458, 459, 462, 463, 464, 465, 467, 468, 475, 476, 477, 478, 481, 488, 489, 490, 494, 495, 496, 497, 498, 499, 500, 501, 504, 506, 508, 509, 519, 520, 522, 523, 525, 526, 531, 540, 541, 542, 544, 551, 552, 554, 555, 556, 557, 559, 560, 562, 563, 564, 566, 574, 575, 576, 578, 579, 581, 584, 585, 587, 588, 589, 591, 592, 595, 597, 599, 601, 602, 603, 604, 606, 607, 610, 611, 612, 616, 617, 619, 622, 624, 625, 626, 630, 631, 633, 638, 640, 641, 642, 647, 650, 653, 654, 657, 658, 663, 664, 666, 667, 671, 673, 674, 676, 677, 682, 683, 685, 687, 691, 693, 703, 706, 707, 720, 723, 726, 727, 731, 733, 735, 737, 740, 741, 742, 743, 746, 751, 752, 755, 760, 763 United States of AmericaActivities and Inuence Overseas / Abroad. 110, 119, 172, 176, 480, 509, 515, 517, 583, 675, 679 United States of AmericaSoybean Production, Area and Stocks Statistics, Trends, and Analyses. 172, 371 United States of America, soyfoods movement in. See Soyfoods Movement in North America Urease. See Enzymes in the SoybeanUrease and Its Inactivation U.S. Regional Soybean Industrial Products Laboratory (Urbana, Illinois). Founded April 1936. 170 USA. See United States of America USDA National Agricultural Library (NAL, Beltsville, Maryland). See National Agricultural Library (NAL, Beltsville, Maryland) USDA. See United States Department of Agriculture USSR. See Europe, EasternUSSR Van Gundy, Dorothea. See Seventh-day AdventistsCookbooks and Their Authors Van Gundy, Theodore A., and La Sierra Industries (La Sierra, California). 597, 763 Vandemoortele N.V. (Izegem, Netherlands). Including Alpro (Early Years Only) and Vamo. 480 Varieties of soybeansEarliest document seen... See Historical Earliest Document Seen Varieties, soybeanJapanese. See Japanese Soybean Types and Varieties Varieties, soybean. See Soybean Varieties, Soybean Varieties USA Large-Seeded Vegetable-Type
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VegetarianismReligious AspectsReligions of Indian Origin Buddhism (Including Zen), Hinduism, Jainism, Yoga, and Ayurveda. 74, 85, 218, 343, 354, 489 VegetarianismSeventh-day Adventist Work with. 85, 321, 323, 374, 476, 673, 691, 726, 740 VegetarianismVeganismConcerning a Plant-Based or Vegan Diet and Lifestyle Free of All Animal Products, Including Dairy Products, Eggs, and in Some Cases Honey and Leather. 388, 737 Vegetarianism: Meat / Flesh Food ConsumptionStatistics, Problems (Such as Diseases in or Caused by Flesh Foods), or Trends in Documents Not About Vegetarianism. See Also: VegetarianismSpongiform Encephalopathies /Diseases. 74, 85 Velvet Bean. Mucuna pruriens (L.) DC. Formerly: Mucuna utilis. Formerly called Banana Bean (Rarely) or Velvetbean. 123, 192, 601
Victory Soya Mills Ltd. (Toronto, Ontario, Canada. Started in Nov. 1944 as Victory Mills Ltd. Named Sunsoy Products Ltd. from 1936 to 1945. Renamed Victory Mills, Ltd. from 1945 to 1954. Owned by (Subsidiary of) Canadian Breweries Ltd., then by Procter & Gamble from 1954, then by Central Soya Co. from 1985). 396 Vietnamese Overseas, Especially Work with Soy. 480, 751 Vietnamese restaurants outside Vietnam, or Vietnamese recipes that use soy ingredients outside Vietnam. See Asia, SoutheastVietnam Vietnamese Restaurants Grocery Stores Outside Vietnam Vigna mungo. See Black gram or urd Vigna sesquipedalis. See Yard-Long Bean or Asparagus Bean Vigna unguiculata or V. sinensis. See Cowpea or Black-Eyed Pea Viili. See Soymilk, Fermented Vilmorin-Andrieux & Co. (France). In 1975 Vilmorin joined the Limagrain Group (Groupe Limagrain) and is now ofcially named Vilmorin s.a. 13 Vitamins (General). 98, 221, 299, 371, 494 Vitamins B-12 (Cyanocobalamin, Cobalamins). 388, 403, 479, 482, 521, 541, 582 Vitamins in a vegetarian diet. See Vegetarian DietsNutrition / Nutritional AspectsVitamins Vitasoy International Holdings Ltd. (Hong Kong Soya Bean Products Co. Ltd. before 24 Sept. 1990), and Vitasoy (USA) Inc., (Brisbane, Californiasouth of San Francisco). Including Nasoya Foods (from Aug. 1990) and Azumaya Inc. (from May 1993).
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Founded by K.S. Lo (Lived 1910 to 1995), in Hong Kong. Started in March 1940. 192, 283, 285, 301, 321, 323, 347, 374, 383, 443, 476, 481, 494, 575, 599, 630, 673, 685, 691, 726, 740 Voandzeia subterranea or Voandzou. See Bambarra groundnuts War, world. See World War ISoybeans and Soyfoods, World War IISoybeans and Soyfoods Waterproof goods or cloth. See Linoleum, Floor Coverings, Oilcloth, and Waterproof Goods Websites or Information on the World Wide Web or Internet. 723, 760 Wedge presses. See Soybean CrushingEquipmentWedge Presses WeedsControl and Herbicide Use. 142, 273, 615 Weight of soybean seeds. See Seed Weight / Size (Soybeans) Weight of 100 Seeds in Grams, or Number of Seeds Per Pound Westbrae Natural Foods, Inc. (Berkeley, California). Founded in Feb. 1971 by Bob Gerner. Later in Carson. Subsidiary of Vestro Foods, Inc. Acquired by the Hain Food Group of Uniondale, New York, 14 Oct. 1997. 362, 630 Wheat GlutenHistorical Documents Published before 1900. 6, 14 Wheat Gluten Made into Seitan (Including Wheatmeat, Tan Pups, and Tan Pops). 480, 538, 619, 654, 737 Wheat Gluten. ChinesePinyin: Mianjin / Mian-jin. Wade-Giles: Mienchin / Mien-chin. 6, 14, 54, 68, 108, 143, 234, 268, 276, 282, 326, 337, 343, 412, 439, 461, 488, 557, 619, 654, 663, 676, 677, 731, 737 Whip Topping (Non-DairyResembles Whipped Cream or Whipping Cream and Contains Soy Protein). 309, 321, 323, 383, 443, 481, 599, 685, 740 White Wave, Inc. (Boulder, Colorado). Including Soyfoods Unlimited. Owned by Dean Foods Co. since 8 May 2002. 383, 443, 446, 481, 520, 599, 630, 650, 685 White soybeans. See Soybean SeedsWhite Whole Dry Soybeans (Used Unprocessed as Food). 20, 21, 34, 39, 67, 73, 82, 98, 108, 110, 129, 132, 142, 172, 178, 198, 207, 212, 215, 321, 323, 331, 336, 345, 374, 376, 412, 427, 476, 477, 512, 539, 541, 549, 573, 575, 580, 584, 659, 661, 673, 691, 726, 740 Whole Dry SoybeansEtymology of This Term and Its Cognates / Relatives in Various Languages. 44 Whole Dry Soybeans for Food UsesIndustry and Market Statistics, Trends, and AnalysesBy Geographical Region. 82 Whole Dry Soybeans, Ground or Mashed to a Paste After Boiling, or Ground Raw with Water to a Fresh Puree or Slurry (Including
Japanese G). 321, 323, 374, 430, 460, 476, 547, 673, 691, 726, 740 WholeSoy & Co. (subsidiary of TAN Industries, Inc.), Modesto WholeSoy Co. (California), and Aros Sojaprodukter (rsundsbro, then Enkoeping, Sweden; Founded by Ted Nordquist. Started Feb. 1981). 598 Wild Soybeans (General). 108 Wild, Perennial Relatives of the SoybeanGlycine Species (Glycine albicans, G. aphyonota, G. arenaria, G. argyrea, G. canescens, G. clandestina, G. curvata, G. cyrtoloba, G. falcata, G. gracei, G. hirticaulis, G. lactovirens, G. latifolia, G. latrobeana, G. montis-douglas, G. mycrophylla, G. peratosa, G. pindanica, G. G. rubiginosa, G. stenophita, G. syndetika, G. tabacina, G. pullenii tomentella) (Former Names and Synonyms Include G. sericea, and G. tomentosa). 601 Wilson soybean variety. See Soybean Varieties USAMammoth Yellow Winged Bean (Psophocarpus tetragonolobus) (Also Called FourAngled Bean, Goa Bean, Goabean, Asparagus Bean, Asparagus Pea, Segidilla, Seguidilla or Seguidillas Bean, Square Podded Pea, Square Podded Crimson Pea, Botor tetragonoloba, Dolichos-, or Lotus tetragonolobus, Pois Carr, Kecipir or Ketjeper, Calamismis or Kalamismis). 153, 192, 233, 440, 676, 677, 731 Worcestershire Sauce (Soy Sauce Was the Main Ingredient before the 1940s). Including Lea & Perrins. 85, 97, 100, 118, 128, 154, 214, 222, 284, 291, 315, 370, 419, 442, 457, 638, 687 Worcestershire SauceWith Soy Sauce Used as an Ingredient. 82, 85, 97, 100, 152, 457, 687 WorldSoybean Production, Area and StocksStatistics, Trends, and Analyses. 371 World War ISoybeans and Soyfoods. Also known as the First World War and The Great War. 74, 85, 88, 97, 139, 152 World War IISoybeans and Soyfoods. Also Called the Second World War. 169, 181, 266, 283, 366, 406, 483, 506, 523, 624 World problems. See Hunger, Malnutrition, Famine, Food Shortages, and Mortality, Population Growth (Human) and Related Problems (Including Poverty), Resource Shortages (Including Water and Energy), Economic Growth, Pollution, Appropriate Technology World. 67, 98, 142, 299, 371, 387, 457, 567, 601, 677, 731, 763 Worthington Foods, Inc. (Worthington, Ohio). Including Battle Creek Foods (Michigan) from 1960, and Madison Foods (Tennessee) from 1964. A subsidiary of Miles Laboratories from March 1970 to Oct. 1982. Including Loma Linda Foods from Jan. 1990. 366, 630 Yamasa Corporation (Choshi, Japan; and Salem, Oregon). 104, 212 Yamato Tofuhaus Sojaprodukte GmbH. See Huegli Naehrmittel
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