Self-instructed

Module in
TLE 8

FIRST QUARTER: DRESSMAKING

REVIEWER

 Dressmaking is a craft of sewing clothes and dresses. It

 is an age-old profession that dates back as far as the
invention of needles thousands of years ago.
 The early beginning of dressmaking was marked by
woven linen textile found in Egypt around 6,000 years
ago and the evidence of silk culture in China 5,000 years
ago.
 When woven fabrics became a norm, dressmaking
business had become popular and common place.
 However, dressmakers would normally cater mostly to
wealth aristocrats who would wear clothing based on the
latest style.
 Traditionally, dressmaking was a career only for women,
but we now know that it has become an acceptable
career for men or women alike, just like any other craft
that used to be either only for men or women has now
become open to all.
Lesson 1: Sewing Tools and Equipment
Measuring Tools
Measuring tools are needed for pattern making and
taking body measurements. To produce a good fit, take the
measurements accurately with the use of the following
measuring tools:
1. Sewing Tape Measure - A flexible measuring device used
in taking body measurements. The front has the
measurement of 150 centimeters and 60 inches on the other
side. Fiberglass tape is commonly used by dressmakers.
2. Ruler – it is either made of wood of plastic and usually 12
inches long. It is used to draw straight lines.
3. L-square – The tailor square or "L" is used to transfer
measurements to the draft pattern. It also divides the
garment into the desired measurement. It has perfect
squares and is useful in making straight lines and numbers.
It can also function as a tape measure.
It has two arms connected perpendicularly.
a. The longer arm is twenty-four (24) inches long.
b. The shorter arm is fourteen (14) inches long.
4. Sewing Gauge – it is a ruler that is usually 6 inches long.
It is used to mark hems for alteration.
5. French Curve - This is used to shape the depth of the
neckhole and armhole of the pattern.
6. Yard Stick – A yardstick is made of smooth, shellacked
hardwood or metal. It is used for marking hemlines and
checking grainlines when laying out the pattern.

Cutting Tools
Cutting tools are instruments that serve well if properly
maintained. Sharp cutting tools make clean cuts and well-
defined notches and they do not damage fabric. On the other
hand, dull tools slow the cutting process, and make your
hand and wrist tire easily. Sewing cutting tools should not
be used for other household task. Cutting tools must be
sharpened regularly and the joints are oiled occasionally for
better use.
1. Scissors/shears – used to cut the fabric.
2. Pinking shears – used to finish seam edges to prevent
from ravelling. They also create decorative edges on many
types of fabrics and are usually used to cut ravel-resistant
fabrics.
3. Seam or Stitch ripper - are specifically designed for
ripping out stitches from seams, either as a result of an error
or during alterations.
4. Thread clipper – used to cut the hanging threads
5. Buttonhole scissor – used to cut buttonhole or for
making buttonholes.

Marking Tools
Marking tools are used to transfer pattern markings to
garment fabric pieces. They are also used for making
alterations on fabrics or garments. The transferred marks
are guides for accurate sewing.
1. Chalk Pencils/Dressmaker Pencil - This is available in
white or pastel shades. This chalk pencil is used to make
fine lines on fabric. It has an erasing brush at one end.
2. Tailor’s Chalk – it is available in different colors.
Dressmakers prefer to mark the wrong side of the fabric with
tailor’s chalk.
3. Wax Chalk – this is available in black or white and is used
for woolen fabrics. Wax can be removed by pressing.
4. Liquid Marking Pen - Liquid marking pens come in two
types. There is one that washes out and one that fades after
48 hours. Those that wash out should not be used on fabric
that show water marks. The mark should be removed before
pressing the fabric.
5. Dressmaker’s Carbon Paper – used to transfer markings
from the pattern to the fabric using a tracing wheel.
Pinning and Sewing Tools
1. Pincushion – a pincushion holds the straight pins and
needles while working to prevent accidents.
2. Needle – used in making temporary stitches and
buttonholes. Sizes of 7 to 10 are for general hand sewing.
3. Threads – are tightly twisted fibers used for sewing.
4. Thimble – a small hard pitted cup worn for protection on
the finger that pushes the needle in sewing.
5. Needle threader – it aid in threading the needle and
makes threading easier, whether with hand or machine
needles.
6. Fabric – is the cloth used in making garments. The plain
cotton fabrics, flour sack or catcha is the most appropriate
material for beginners because these are very easy to handle.

Types of Sewing Machines

The sewing machine is the most important equipment
used in sewing, as well as the most expensive equipment.
Well-selected sewing machine is essential for achieving good
results. It should be used correctly in accordance with the
job requirements.
1. Lockstitch Sewing Machine
This is usually used in homes and
sometimes in school. This is also called
“Domestic Sewing Machine”. It is run
by foot and may also be converted to
electric power machine.
2. Hi-Speed Lockstitch Sewing Machine
This is sometimes called “straight
stitching machine” or industrial sewing machine. It has
automatic lubrication and is used by tailors and
dressmakers.
3. Over Edging Machine
Other companies call it “small machine”. It finishes the
raw edges of the pattern for construction.
4. Embroidery Machine
This is used in making fancy
stitches and in making different kinds
of embroidery stitches on fabrics for the
Barong Tagalog, pillow cases, linen, and
other novelty items.
5. Button Holer Machine
This is used in making buttonholes
on garments.

6. Button Attachment Machine

This is used in attaching buttons
to the garments.

7. Double Needle Machine

This is used in the construction
of the different kinds of clothing
especially for the inseam, outseam
and side seam.
8. Bartacking Machine
This is used in reinforcing the
opening and closing of pockets.

Parts of the Lockstitch Sewing Machine

There are two major parts of the sewing machine: the
upper and the lower part.
Upper Part
1. Head – this refers to the complete upper part of the
sewing machine.
2. Arm – is the curve part of the head containing mechanism
for operating the needle.
3. Bed – is the flat portion of the machine and beneath is the
feed dog where it is mounted, and the shuttle and lower
thread are placed.

Parts of the Sewing Machine in the Arm

1. Spool Pin – is the thread holder.
2. Thread Guide – keeps the thread in position.
3. Thread Take up Lever – releases the thread and
interlocks with the bobbin thread.
4. Presser bar lifter – moves the presser foot.
5. Tension – controls the looseness and tightness of stitches.
6. Needle Bar – holds the needle in place.
7. Needle Clamp – holds and tightens the needle.
8. Presser Foot – holds the fabric in place while sewing.
9. Needle – is a slender tool attached in the needle clamp
used for sewing.
10. Bobbin Winder – controls the bobbin while winding
thread.
11. Stitch regulator – checks the length of the stitches.
12. Balance Wheel – sets the mechanism in motion.
13. Belt – connects the balance wheel to the drive wheel.
14. Stop Motion Screw – hinders moving when loosened
and starts

Parts of the Sewing Machine Under the Bed

1. Feed Dog – moves the fabric while sewing.
2. Throat plate – is the windows of the feed dog and it is
where the bobbin threads come out.
3. Slide plate – is a movable plate that covers the shuttle
and bobbin case.
4. Shuttle – holds the bobbin case while sewing.
5. Bobbin – is a metal spool for winding thread.
6. Bobbin Case – holds the bobbin.

Lower Parts
1. Band Wheel – leads the balance wheel through the belt
connection.
2. Band Wheel Crank – moves the band wheel.
3. Pitman Rod – holds the treadle to band wheel crank.
4. Belt Guide – holds the belt to its place.
5. Belt Shifter – removes the belt from the wheel.
6. Dress Guard – protects the dress from the wheel.
7. Treadle – is where the feet are stationed to drive the band
wheel through the pitman rod.
8. Legs – support the cabinet of the machine.
9. Cabinet – holds the head of the machine by interlocking
screw on the hinges.

Parts of body to be measured can be taken in:

1. The horizontal measurement is taken from the left of the
figure to the right.
2. The vertical measurement is taken from the top of the
body figure to its base.
3. Circumferential measurement is taken around the body.
Neck - Loosely measure around the
circumference at the base of your neck
Bust - Lift your arms to the side. Measure
around your body crossing over the fullest
part of your bust. (The tape measure must
run directly over your nipples and across
your shoulder blades on your back).
Bust to Bust - Measure from your one nipple
to your other nipple.
Upper Bust - Measure around the torso
directly above the bust line. From armhole to
armhole +- 8cm down from neck.
Lower Bust - Measure around the torso
directly under the bustline.
Waist - Measure around the waist at the
narrowest natural waistline point, allowing 2
fingers between your waist and tape
measure.

Hips - Measure around the fullest part of

your hips. As a guide, this is often 20cm
below your natural waistline. Stand with
your knees together.

Shoulder to Bust - Measure from tip of the

shoulder to the centre of bust (nipple).

Front Shoulder to Waist - Measure from tip

of shoulder over bust to natural waistline.

Shoulder to Shoulder - Measure across the

back of neck from socket of one shoulder to
socket of the other shoulder.
Shoulder to Neck - Measure from base of
neck along top of shoulder to the shoulder
socket.

Down Center Back - Measure from nape of

neck to natural waist.

Back Shoulder to Waist - Measure from tip

of shoulder to natural waist line.

Across Back - Measure from armhole across

back to armhole positioning tape measure + -
8cm down from nape of neck.
Full Back - Measure from side seam, under
armpits to side seam across back, positioning
tape measure +- 4cm down under armpit.

Sleeve Hole - Measure around the shoulder

under the armpit.

Bicep - Measure around the fullest part of

the upper arm.

Elbow - Do a fairly loose measurement

around the bent elbow.

Under Arm - Measure from under the arm.

Start at the armpit to the wrist.

Over Arm - Measure from outer shoulder

socket on outside of arm, with a bent arm, to
the wrist.

Side Seam - Measure from under armpit to

natural waistline down.

Upper Arm – Measure from the outer

shoulder socket on outside of arm to crook of
elbow.

MEN’S APPAREL (Measurement)

A. Vertical Measurement
Shirt length - taken from the nape
down the center back to the desired
length.

Sleeve length - taken from the shoulder

tip point down to the desired sleeve
length.

Length of pants or shorts – measures

along the side below the waist band to
the desired length of the pants.

Crotch or Rise – measured by placing a

ruler under the crotch then measuring
below the waistband down to the top of
the level of the ruler.

B. Horizontal Measurement

Shoulder - taken from one shoulder

point to the other.
Bust/Breast - taken around the body
with the tape measure passing over the
fullest part of the shoulder blade at the
back and over to the apex.

Upper arm girth - taken around the

fullest part of the arm in line with the
armpit.
Lower arm girth or sleeve width -
taken around the arm two to three
inches below the armpit.

Neck measure – taken around the

neckline.

Waist (w) - taken around the smallest

part of the waistline. Insert two fingers
under the tape measure for ease or
allowance.

Hip or seat (H) - taken around the

fullest part of the hip (buttocks) with two
fingers inserted under the tape measure.
Desired Bottom or Hem
Circumference or leg hole – taken
around the fullest part of the bottom.

METRIC CONVERSION CHART

Simple calculation is an easy mathematical application
used to determine the accurate measurement of body parts,
length and width of materials and cost needed to create
apparel.
This is the process in which the four fundamental of
operations (MDAS) is involved.

Length and Width of Materials

In measuring the length and width of materials needed
such as fabrics, we also need the use of the Metric
measurement system.
Metric Conversion Chart for Fabric and Sewing
ENGLISH METRIC ENGLISH METRIC
SYSTEM SYSTEM SYSTEM SYSTEM
0.25 17.78
1/4 Inch 7 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
1.27 19.05
1/2 Inch 7.5 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
1.59 20.32
5/8 Inch 8 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
1.905 21.59
3/4 Inch 8.5 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
2.54 22.86
1 Inch 9 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
3.81 24.13
1.5 Inches 9.5 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
5.08 25.4
2 Inches 10 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
2.5 Inches 6.35 10.5 Inches 26.67
 Centimeters Centimeters
7.62 27.94
3 Inches 11 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
8.89 29.21
3.5 Inches 11.5 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
10.16 30.48
4 Inches 12 Inches
Centimeters Centimeters
11.43
4.5 Inches 1 Yard 0.9144 Meters
Centimeters
12.7
5 Inches 2 Yards 1.8288 Meters
Centimeters
13.97
5.5 Inches 3 Yards 2.7432 Meters
Centimeters
15.24
6 Inches 4 Yards 3.6576 Meters
Centimeters
16.51
6.5 Inches 5 Yards 4.572 Meters
Centimeters
Example:
1. How many inches are there in a 100 centimeters width of
fabric?
2. How many centimeters are there in a 60 inches length of
fabric?
Answer:
a. Given: 1 inch = 2.54 cm
Width of fabric = 100 cm
Equivalent of an inch to cm = 2.54
100 cm
Calculation: 2.54 cm = 39.37 inches
b. Given:
1 inch = 2.54 cm
Length of fabric = 60 inches
Equivalent of a cm to an inch = 2.54 cm
Calculation: 60 inches x 2.54 cm = 152.4 cm
Cost Needed
Example:
You need to buy a 60 inches length of fabric to be used
in making a dress to your customer. You have known that
the cost of the fabric that you are going to use is P5.00 per
centimeter. How much will you need to buy it?
Step I – Convert the 60 inches length of fabric into
centimeters.
60 inches x 2.54 cm = 152.4 cm
Step II – Multiply the cost per centimeter to the length of
fabric converted.
152.4 cm x Php 5.00 = Php 777.00

PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
The principles of designs are concepts used to organize
or arrange the structural elements of design. These the ways
in which these principles are applied the affects the
expressive content, or the message of the work.
1. Balance - According to this principle,
from the centered of the dress, design
should be identified on both sides may
be achieved ways:
a. Symmetrically or the formal
balance - can be described as having
equal "weight" on equal sides of a
centrally placed like a see saw. This is
an easy way of balancing but such
balance lends monotony to the design.
b. Asymmetrically or the informal
balance – When the structure
decoration and accessories are different
both sides from the center of the design.
In this design attraction both sides is
created by using different accessories.
c. Proportion - is the pleasing
relationship of all parts of the object
with one another. Proportion refers to
the relative size and scale of the various
elements in a design. The issue is the
relationship between objects, or parts,
of a whole.
2. Emphasis – every pleasing design
has one part that is more interesting
than any other. This is the emphasis or
the center of interest.
3. Rhythm – these are smooth
movement repeated again and again.
Rhythm is an important principle of art.
It is created by repeated use of the
design. If there is rhythm in a design,
the eye would move easily from one part
to the other.
a. Repetition of lines, colors, or
accessories. Parallel lines are formed by
the use of seams, buttons, embroidery,
lace, etc. which helps uninterrupted eye
movement.
b. Radiation. Rhythm can also be
created by the radiated lines. These
lines are created by gathers Eyes can
move easily from one part to the other
on the small lines created by gathers.
Such lines can be seen in gathers on
neckline, arm and skirt.

c. Gradation. Rhythm can be created

by gradual change of lines, shape or
shade of the color.

4. Harmony - means a relationship of

different portion of a design. Harmony
should be achieved through judicious
use of color, shape, and texture to give
a feeling of oneness.

COLOR THEORY
The first thing you usually notice about clothes or
anything is their color. Before you start studying which
colors look best together, you should learn the meaning of
color terms and the rules that apply to colors.

Primary Colors – the sources of all colors, even though

there are thousands and thousands of colors in the world,
they are all made up of these colors – red, blue and yellow.
Secondary Colors – are produced when mixing two
equal amounts of primary colors. If you mix equal amount or
yellow and blue you will have green, equal parts of red and
blue will have violet and red and yellow you will have orange.
Look at the color wheel you will find these colors – orange,
green and violet.
Intermediate Colors – are produced by mixing two
equal amounts of primary and secondary colors. Example, if
you mix equal parts of yellow (primary color) and green
(secondary color) you will have yellow-green. Noticed that
yellow-green is found between yellow and green on the color
wheel.
The intermediate colors are;
Yellow + green = yellow-green
Blue + green = blue-green
Blue + violet = blue-violet
Red + violet = red-violet
Red + orange = red-orange
Blue + orange = blue-orange
Pure Colors – are the primary, secondary and
intermediate colors because they have no white, black and
gray in them. Pure colors are also called “normal, true and
basic colors”.
Tints – when pure colors are mixed with white, they are
made lighter. Example, when white is added to red you have
pink. In other words pink is a tint of red. The whiter you
add, the lighter the pink will be. Tints are also called
“pastels”.
Shades – when pure colors are mixed with black, they
are made darker. Example, when black is added to red you
have maroon, a shade of red. The blacker you add, the
darker you have.
 Grayed colors – most colors we used in clothes are
grayed colors rather than bright, pure colors you see on the
color wheel. Grayed colors are also referred to as “soft colors”
or “dull colors”. The grayer you add, the duller the color will
be.
Neutrals – are white, black and gray. They look well with
another and with all other colors. The more grayed colors
become the more different colors it will harmonize with.

Warm and Cool Colors

Warm colors – are red, red-orange,

orange, yellow-orange, and orange. Red is
the warmest color. They are also adjacent
in the color wheel.

Cool colors – are green, blue-green, blue,

blue-violet, violet. Blue is the coolest
color. They are adjacent to one another in
the color wheel.

Qualities of Colors
Hue – is the family group name of a color. It is the name of a
color. Ones they are combined differently and given new
names.
Value – refers to the lightness or the tint or the darkness of
the shade. The scale of the value colors are from the very
lightest tint to the very darkest of the shade.
Intensity – means the brightness or dullness of a color.
When you refer to a color as “bright” or “very bright” or “dull”
or “very dull” you are describing its intensity. Example: green
peppers are bright yellow-green, while olives are dull yellow
green.

OCCUPATIONAL HEALTH AND SAFETY PROCEDURE IN

SEWING MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Cleaning and lubricating a sewing machine is quite a
messy task. Personal care should be observed during this
activity. The following health and safety precautions should
be practiced at the shop or at home.
1. Wear personal protective equipment. This prevents your
clothing from being tarnished by oil and dirt .Be sure to wear
gloves to avoid accumulation of oil and dirt in your nails and
palms. (Wearing of protective eye glasses is optional).
2. Remove the upper belt or turn power off before oiling the
sewing machine.
3. When chemical or small spare parts get into your eyes,
call the attention of your teacher at once.
4. Do not remove any safety device from any machine.
5. Be sure that all screws are well-lightened before starting
the machine.
6. Make sure that no screws or tools are left on the floor to
avoid slipping.
7. Wipe dry spilled oils on the floor to avoid accidents.
8. Assign colored tags for a newly maintained sewing
machine
9. Provide a small bin for your garbage when performing this
job.
10. Have a separate cabinet or storage for tools and supplies
for sewing machine maintenance.
11. Always refer to the sewing machine service manual for
accurate application of procedure.
Note: A sewing machine is equipment that needs care and
cleaning. Keep it dusted and lubricated at least once a week
or more often if the machine is in constant use.

HAZARDS & RISKS

What is a hazard?
A hazard is any source of potential damage, harm or
adverse health effects on something or someone under
certain conditions at work. Basically, a hazard can cause
harm or adverse effects
A hazard is any source of potential damage, harm or
adverse health effects on something or someone under
certain conditions at work. Basically, a hazard can cause
harm or adverse effects (to individuals as health effects or to
organizations as property or equipment losses). Sometimes a
hazard is referred to as being the actual harm or the health
effect it caused rather than the hazard. For example, the
disease tuberculosis (TB) might be called a hazard by some
but in general the TB-causing bacteria would be considered
the "hazard" or "hazardous biological agent".
What are examples of a Hazard?
Workplace hazards can come from a wide range of sources.
General examples include any substance, material, process,
practice, etc. that has the ability to cause harm or adverse
health effect to a person under certain conditions.

What is Risk?
Risk is the chance or probability that a person will be
harmed or experience an adverse health effect if exposed to a
hazard. It may also apply to situations with property or
equipment loss.
For example: The risk of developing cancer from smoking
cigarettes could be expressed as "cigarette smokers are 12
times (for example) more likely to die of lung cancer than
non-smokers". Another way of reporting risk is "a certain
number, "Y", of smokers per 100,000 smokers will likely
develop lung cancer" (depending on their age and how many
years they have been smoking). These risks are expressed as
a probability or likelihood of developing a disease or getting
injured, whereas hazards refer to the possible consequences
(e.g., lung cancer, emphysema and heart disease from
cigarette smoking).

Factors that influence the degree of risk include:

• How much a person is exposed to a hazardous thing or
condition,
• How the person is exposed (e.g., breathing in a vapor, skin
contact), and
• How severe are the effects under the conditions of
exposure.

What is a risk assessment?

Risk assessment is the process where you:
• Identify hazards,
• Analyze or evaluate the risk associated with that hazard,
and
• Determine appropriate ways to eliminate or control the
hazard.
The OSH Answers Risk Assessment has details on how to
conduct an assessment and establish priorities.

What is an adverse health effect?

A general definition of adverse health effect is "any
change in body function or the structures of cells that can
lead to disease or health problems". Adverse health effects
include:
• Bodily injury,
• Disease,
• Change in the way the body functions, grows, or develops,
• Effects on a developing fetus (teratogenic effects, fetotoxic
effects),
• Effects on children, grandchildren, etc. (inheritable genetic
effects)
• Decrease in life span,
• Change in mental condition resulting from stress,
traumatic experiences, exposure to solvents, and so on, and
• Effects on the ability to accommodate additional stress

Types of Hazard
1. Chemical - A chemical hazard is any substance that can
cause harm, primarily to people. Chemicals of all kinds are
stored in our homes and can result in serious injuries if not
properly handled. Household items such as bleach can
result in harmful chlorine gas or hydrochloric acid if
carelessly used. Gasoline fumes from containers for
lawnmowers or boats can result in major health hazards if
inhaled.
2. Electrical - An electrical hazard can be defined as a
dangerous condition where a worker could make electrical
contact with energized equipment or a conductor, and from
which the person may sustain an injury from shock; and/or,
there is potential for the worker to receive an arc flash burn,
thermal burn, or blast injury.
3. Ergonomic - Ergonomic hazards impact employers and
workers and their families.
A. Poor workplace design, awkward body mechanics or
postures, repetitive movements, and other ergonomic
hazards induce or contribute to a staggering number of
cumulative trauma disorders.
B. Cumulative trauma disorders (CTD) affect hands, wrists,
elbows, arms, shoulders, the lower back, and the cervical
spine area. Structures involved include tendons, muscles,
bones, nerves, and blood vessels. One can plan strategies for
abatement by learning to recognize the hazards that
contribute to CTD.
C. OSHA has published the Ergonomic Program
Management Guidelines. OSHA has also given Advance
Notice of Proposed Rulemaking for an Ergonomic Standard
that will affect all industries.
D. A companywide ergonomic assessment should be
developed, followed by a well written ergonomic plan.
Ergonomic abatement will decrease the costs associated with
CTD and ultimately impact the corporate "bottom line."
4. Psychological - The psychosocial hazard has recently
been acknowledged in legislation as a workplace hazard.
This type of hazard relates to mental health and behavioural
disorders.
5. Radiation - Radiation Hazard (RADHAZ) describes the
hazards of electromagnetic radiation to fuels, electronic
hardware, ordinance, and personnel. In the military these
hazards are segregated as follows:
A) Hazards of Electromagnetic Radiation to Personnel (HERP)
B) Hazards of Electromagnetic Radiation to Ordnance
(HERO)
C) Hazards of Electromagnetic Radiation to Fuel (HERF)
6. Biological - A biological hazard, or biohazard, is anything
coming from living organisms (i.e. pollen, fungi, animals,
insects, bacteria and viruses) that could be a threat to
someone's health. It is represented by ☣, the biohazard
symbol, which is used everywhere in the world. When people
see this sign they know to take precautions, and to follow
proper conduct for science labs.
7. Physical - Physical hazards are those substances which
threaten your physical safety. The most common types of
physical hazards are:
* Fire
* Explosion
* Chemical Reactivity
Hazards may be encountered when using the sewing
machine include:
• Cuts and injuries from sharp edges, knife blades, scissors
and pins
- Finger injuries while sewing
• Back injury from poor posture and improper lifting
procedures
- Eye strain from poor lighting