The Advanced Art of Baking Pastry

The Advanced Art of Baking & Pastry
R. ANDREW CHLEBANA
PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY TAHLIER

Foreword
Pastry Chef/Professor Andy Chlebana has written a dynamic new textbook called The
Advanced Art of Baking & Pastry.
This is the most up-to-date information written by a chef and author who has worked at
the top of the hospitality industry and competed at the highest level. Pastry chefs of every
level will benefit from the depth and variety of pastry experience inside.
Andy Chlebana served as Team USA Coupe du Monde de Patisserie Captain and has
won numerous awards, working both in chocolate and in sugar. Due to this singular
experience, he delivers two excellent chapters, “Chocolate Work” and “Sugar Work.”
Every aspect on the subject is detailed in Chapters 13 and 14, from design and structure
to advanced techniques like airbrushing chocolate and creating pastillage.
A subject close to my heart, modern pastry techniques, is given due diligence in

Chapter 4 with detailed explanation of the most innovative techniques developed in the
past decade.
Chapter 10 on plated desserts is a refreshingly up-to-date discussion on presentation,

balance, and flavors of hot and cold desserts.
There's an ample amount of solid, classic techniques and recipes as well. “Bread for the
Pastry Chef” (Chapter 2) is an artisan bakery primer that explains the function and
science of the bread, fermentation, mixing methods, and numerous recipes. Additional
chapters cover “Assembling Cakes,” “Frozen Desserts,” and “Vienoisserie.”
The Advanced Art of Baking & Pastry is visually stunning, with artistic photographs by
one of the top photographers in the county. There's no one in the world more qualified to
write this than Chef Chlebana, and there's no pastry textbook to date that encompasses so
much of the sweet world!
JIMMY MACMILLAN
Top Ten Pastry Chef by Dessert Professional Magazine
Emmy® Award-winning creator of The Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

Acknowledgments
I would like to express my gratitude to the many people who assisted me throughout the
process of writing this book. There are many people to thank, and I don't want anyone to
feel that they have been left out, so thank you to everyone who helped in some way, no
matter how big or small. Your assistance was greatly appreciated and has given me the
ability to complete this project.
I would like to thank my wife, Heather, and my children, Abigail, Annabel, Andrew, and
Adler, who supported and encouraged me in spite of all the time it took me away from
them. It was a long, difficult journey for them.
Thank you to my editors at Wiley. My first contact with the company, Mary Cassells,
kept on me until I submitted the proposal and was with me until the rough draft of the
manuscript. Andrea Brescia helped me put all the pieces together and get everything in
order to look the way it does now. I could not have done this without either of you
encouraging me along the way. There is a team of people behind the scenes at John
Wiley and Sons who have contributed countless hours to the completion of this book; I
thank you all for your efforts.
The photo shoot was a big undertaking for this project. Many people were involved, and
everyone contributed to the beautiful images that I hope will inspire the reader. First I
need to thank the most talented photographer I have had the pleasure of working with,
Anthony Tahlier. He and his first assistant, Sean Henderson, truly worked magic behind
the lens. They made the food that a team of my lab assistants and students helped me
prepare look fantastic.
Thanks to Joliet Junior College and the Culinary Arts Department for giving me the time
to work on this book. Several friends, coworkers, and other departments contributed to
my efforts. Brooke Hoekstra and Heather Schreiner helped from the early steps of testing
and developing recipes, creating the schedule for the photo shoot, and preparing the food
we shot; additional assistance was provided by Brooke Ball and Eileen Braski. Tim
Bucci, my partner in crime at the college, always made me think about what I was doing
and pushed me to become a better pastry chef. Additional help was provided during the
development stages by Anthony Kozlowski and Stacey Lyons.
Math is an important part of baking and pastry. Donna Katula from the Joliet Junior
College Math Department helped to clean up some of the formulas and make them more
user friendly.
We are all students and continue to learn all throughout our careers. Nancy Carey helped
a great deal with the breads in this book. Stephanie Pintoy provided technical assistance
for Chapter 4, “Modern Pastry Techniques.”
Products and services were also provided by the following companies; their commitment
to industry and education is greatly appreciated. Thank you for all the products and time
you donated during the production of this book:
Chicago Culinary FX—Michael Joy & Beatrice Schneider
John E. Koerner & Co. Inc.—Tim Koerner
SiliKoMart
Tomric Systems, Inc.—Tom Elsinghorst

Introduction Page 1 of 27
CHAPTER 1
Introduction
How do you go from making a simple éclair to a plated dessert in a fine-dining

restaurant? How do you go from learning to temper chocolate to creating an
elegant showpiece? The answer is simple—continued mastery of one skill after
another. Mastering the skills required to be a pastry chef requires a strong
foundation built on professionalism, techniques, understanding ingredients, and
constant improvement. In this chapter the groundwork will be laid, and you will
begin your journey to mastering the advanced art of pastry.
http://e.pub/z767bn7msnjv1owds4xz.vbk/OPS/c01.xhtml 7/10/2020
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
After reading this chapter, you should be able to:
1. Identify the fundamental skills necessary to be successful in the pastry
shop.
2. Identify specialty equipment and tools.
3. Describe how to prevent foodborne illness.
Professionalism
Pastry chefs and chefs have a great deal of pride in the work they do. The job of a
pastry chef is not to simply provide good food. Formulas and techniques are used
to transform ingredients that can be found in most home kitchen pantries into
something extraordinary. Having the ability to create these edible works of art is
only a small portion of pastry chef’s responsibilities. They must also be able to
manage their staff, entertain the guest, and create revenue for the business—all
while working long hours and holidays. This is a considerable amount of
responsibility for one person to orchestrate.
Every kitchen has its own stories that span across the industry—the long days,
impossible workloads, malfunctioning equipment, being a pastry cook short for a
shift, or orders not getting delivered, all while being able to serve the food to the
guest without them knowing the chaos in the back of the house. To the uninitiated,
it sounds like a nightmare; however, those that work in a kitchen tell these stories
and wear them like a badge of honor.
I am constantly asked: “Why would you choose a job like this?” What draws people
to work in the hospitality industry? A closer examination in the name of the industry
reveals the answer. The hospitality industry is based on the principles of service. It
is the job of the pastry chef, executive chef, baker, and cook to provide service to
the guest. It is our job not only to serve food but also to cater to the needs and
tastes of the guests and entertain them as well.
“We are Ladies and Gentlemen serving Ladies and Gentlemen.” This is the motto
of the Ritz-Carlton Hotel Company; it clearly defines the function of all employees.
Not only are employees responsible for serving the guest but they must also treat
their fellow staff members with the same courtesy and respect. Professionalism
starts with the attitude of the employee. Dedicated employees who demonstrate
pride in their craft will advance quickly through the ranks of the pastry shop.
Skills for Success in the Pastry Shop

A good attitude and understanding of the expectations of the hospitality industry
provide a solid foundation to succeed in the pastry shop. Ensuring cleanliness and
safety as well as understanding ingredients and striving to improve are
foundational skills. When starting out in your career, take the time to develop skills
in these areas and build on them as you continue learning. You will find that these
areas are all intertwined—one relies on and impacts the others. The ability to
demonstrate an understanding of these skills is the first step in the start of your
career.
Mastering Cleanliness
One word that could easily describe the kitchen environment would be hectic.
Multitasking is essential, but when working on more than one task at a time, it is
easy to become disorganized. It is important to focus not only on technique and
properly executing the process of a recipe but also on maintaining a clean and
organized work area. A clean work area is the sign of an efficient work area—and a
safe one. Cleanliness encompasses more than an individual’s personal uniform
and workspace; it also means that all members are contributing to the cleanliness
of the pastry shop.
Uniform
The uniform of the kitchen has evolved over many years. While there is a wide
range of what is worn in the kitchen, there are five elements that make up proper
kitchen attire. The professional image of the pastry chef is based on sturdy shoes,
pants, chef jacket, apron, and hat. While different uniforms can be found in culinary
schools and restaurants throughout the country, some form of each of these
elements is typically used.
Just as the uniform of the pastry chef has changed over the years, so has the role
of the pastry chef. The pastry chef is no longer kept “trapped” in the kitchen.
Kitchen spaces are more open and accessible, making the back of the house more
visible to the guest. Television shows have increased the popularity of the food
service industry, and, as a result, the diner may request to meet the chef and even
tour the kitchen. Guests often want to meet the people who have made their food,
adding to their experience of the meal. A clean uniform benefits the individual as
well as the industry as a whole. When we wear our kitchen uniforms we represent
the professionalism of the industry. A clean uniform not only makes the individual
look good, it increases the positive perception of the industry.
Your uniform is the first thing that guests will see when they meet you. All clothing,
including shoes, must be clean. Professionalism is demonstrated partly through
appearance. It is understood that flour will get on pants and shoes, and chocolate
will get on a white chef’s coat. This happens to everyone on occasion, but the goal
is to develop work habits that will maintain the cleanliness of the uniform.
Work Area Organization

In addition to maintaining a clean uniform, it is important to maintain a clean work
area. Not only are clean work areas sanitary and free from debris, but they also
include the organization of equipment and ingredients. Keeping the work area
clean will help to keep your uniform clean. A clean work area demonstrates good
organizational skills, respect for ingredients, and collaboration with coworkers.
The expectation of work in a professional pastry shop is to execute a recipe
correctly and as quickly as possible. When assembling a recipe, organize
ingredients and equipment to minimize the possibility of having to do the recipe
again. Ingredients not arranged in an organized way can easily be left out of a
recipe, resulting in wasted food. A recipe that needs to be remade adds to the
labor cost as well as food cost. The fundamentals of understanding ingredients and
mixing methods will ensure the mise en place of equipment and ingredients is
correct.
The pastry shop is not a one-person operation; all team members come together,
working like a machine to provide the necessary products to the guest. A clean
work area shows a great deal of respect and professionalism among coworkers.
Pastry Shop Organization

In addition to maintaining individual workstations, the members of the team must
work together to keep the pastry shop clean and organized. Restaurants, country
clubs, and bakeries may have limited staffing. Consequently, this requires all team
members to partake in daily removal of trash, cleaning of floors, and storage of
inventory. In larger operations, cleaning the shop is a cooperative effort between
the stewarding department and kitchen staff.
A clean pastry shop will provide a safe working environment for team members.
Food products and debris on floors increase the chances of accidents caused by
slipping or falling, and they attract rodents and pests. Cleaning any food or debris
from worktables and floors will create a safer work environment and will be less
likely to attract vermin.
In an effort to maintain the common areas of the pastry shop, designing a schedule
of daily and weekly maintenance will ensure that these areas are cleaned.
Additional areas of responsibility that may need to be included on this list would be
rotating of storeroom items, inspecting cooler production for freshness, and
organizing freezer space. Properly training staff to clearly label and date products
will reduce the amount of time required to clean and organize these areas. If all
team members do their part, when it comes time to clean the shop, it can be done
quickly and effortlessly.
Focusing on Safety
A safe work environment will contribute to reduced workplace injuries. The pastry
kitchen is a dangerous place to work—sharp knives, mechanical equipment, and
even dirty floors can all cause injury. Safety starts with the individual. Good
personal habits and maintenance of personal tools are both necessities.
Earlier, we discussed the importance of the uniform and how a clean uniform
reflects directly on the professionalism of the pastry chef. Your tools are an
important part of your uniform. Without them, you would not be able to complete
your daily tasks. All personal tools should be cleaned and stored and in proper
working order before leaving for the day. Cleaning and drying tools will help them
to last longer and reduce the possibility of cross contamination.
In addition to being clean, knives should be properly sharpened. A dull knife will
make it more difficult to accurately cut items and is more dangerous than a sharp
knife.
Understanding Ingredients
When starting out in your career, it is important to understand why something is
being done just as much as what is being done. Take pie dough, for example,
which is a simple combination of flour, fat, and liquid. To mix pie dough, the fat is
cut into the dry flour. Once this mixture has reached pea-sized particles, liquid is
then added. That sounds simple enough, and it is, really. The what is simple to
explain and can be learned through demonstration.
But as you continue in the profession, it is important to analyze the why. Why are
these ingredients used? Why do I mix them this way?
To make changes to the recipe, you must first understand the function of the
ingredients. Each chapter in this text examines the ingredients used in the formulas
and explains their function and benefits. This places the information right alongside
the theory and formulas for easy reference.
The simplicity of pie dough makes it a good example for this exercise. First, let’s
look at what makes a good pie dough. Descriptors of pie dough would be flaky and
tender. Developing these textures in the dough is achieved through the ingredients
used and method of assembly. Mixing the dough using the same method and
different ingredients will yield a different result.
Pie dough is made from a ratio of 3 parts flour, 2 parts fat, and 1 part liquid. First
we will examine the flour. A flaky dough is made by using low-protein flour, such as
cake or pastry. However, even with low-protein flour, a tough dough can be
created. If liquid is added earlier in the mixing or the dough is mixed too long after
the liquid is added, the result will be a tough crust. While pie dough can be made
with stronger flours, mixing must be observed very closely to prevent overmixing,
which can happen very easily.
The second ingredient is fat. Fat comes in many forms—solid vegetable fat, oil,
butter, and lard. What does the fat do in pie dough? It creates layers inside the
dough to make the baked dough flaky. Oil will be instantly absorbed into the flour
and will not contribute to a flaky dough. We are thus left with solid fats, each of
which must be analyzed to determine the best selection.
Analyzing Fats in Pie Dough
Type of Fat Characteristics Cost Source
Butter Hard when cold, soft when room High Animal

temperature, good flavor
Solid Hard when cold, firm when room Low Vegetable

vegetable fat temperature, neutral flavor
Lard Hard when cold, firm when room Low Animal

temperature, neutral flavor
Solid vegetable fat is the most commonly used fat in the production of pie dough. It
works well under a wide range of temperatures and is low in cost. While butter will
give additional flavor, it quickly transitions from a firm consistency when
refrigerated to very soft at room temperature and can be easily overmixed. Lard
has many of the same characteristics as the vegetable fat and will produce a very
flaky dough. The source of the lard and vegetable fat may help in the decision
making process. For example, if producing pies to be marketed as vegetarian,
vegetable fat would be a better choice.
The last ingredient is liquid. Liquid is used to pull the flour and fat together to form
a dough. Water is typically used for this function. It is easily accessible in the pastry
shop and carries a very minimal cost. In some instances, pie dough may contain
milk—the fat in milk will contribute to a softer crust. The lactose present in the milk
will cause the crust to brown more than if water was used.
It is amazing the difference that changing one ingredient in a recipe has on the final
results. In addition to possible changes in flavor or texture, ingredients interact with
each other in a recipe and create a system. Changing one can impact how the
others work and ultimately change the final result. Understanding ingredients will
help you to make an informed decision as to what can be added or taken away,
and provide insight into the results of the final product.
Striving to Improve
To achieve success in the pastry shop, it is important to continuously strive for
improvement. Some of the tasks found in the pastry shop may come naturally to an
individual while others may not. Generations of pastry chefs have worked hard to
master the challenges of the bakeshop and innovate new techniques. Many others
will continue behind them and build on what they have done. Working on your skills
and continuing to improve and develop new skills is what will make you successful
in this industry.
The skills you learn in culinary school are the foundation of your new career.
Students learn the fundamentals of working cleanly, proper scaling, use of
equipment, mixing techniques, piping—the list goes on and on. To truly master
these skills takes years of practice. Apply the same techniques an athlete uses:
Practice will make you surer and more precise.
When preparing formulas in class or at work, mistakes will happen. These
mistakes should be used as a learning experience to prevent the mistake from
happening again. Carefully analyzing the result should result in an understanding
of what went wrong. Learning from mistakes will make you a stronger pastry chef.
Food Safety
The food service profession relies on more than food that looks and tastes good.
As professionals, we also guarantee that the food being served is safe for
consumption. Serving food that is unsafe can result in sickness, fines, and
lawsuits. Observing safe food-handling practices will protect our customers, the
reputation of the business, and your bottom line.
State and local governments are responsible for determining the sanitation
standards that must be observed by food service operations under their
jurisdiction. Sanitation inspections are conducted to ensure that the laws are being
followed to provide the public with safe food. While inspectors are not always
welcome, remember that these visits are in place to protect the customer and the
operation. It is through recognizing and understanding the causes of foodborne
illness that it can be prevented.
Food can become contaminated through three hazards: physical, chemical, and
biological.
Physical Contamination
Physical contamination occurs when foreign matter enters a food item, which
may cause illness or injury to a person consuming the product. Physical
contaminants may include glass, metal flakes, bone chips, shells, wood, and stone.
Illness may not be directly connected to these items, but they can cause illness
through cross contamination.
Chemical Contamination
Chemical contamination is caused by cleaning chemicals or by cooking food
using pans and utensils not approved for cooking. Chemicals should always be
stored away from food and food preparation areas. When they must be used, be
sure to thoroughly rinse the area with water before use. Since different foods react
with metals, it is recommended to use stainless-steel pots, pans, and utensils to
reduce the likelihood of chemical contamination.
Biological Contamination
Biological contamination is caused by ingesting food or water that contains
bacteria, parasites, viruses, or toxins produced by microorganisms or plants (such
as poisonous mushrooms). While no one is immune from contracting a foodborne
illness, pregnant woman, the elderly, small children, and those with chronic illness
are more susceptible. The symptoms often present the same as the flu—cramping,
upset stomach, vomiting, and diarrhea—which can lead to dehydration. In some
instances, neurological symptoms such as dizziness or difficulty breathing may
occur and require immediate medical attention.
The pastry shop is a hands-on operation, and food that is constantly handled can
become easily contaminated if the proper guidelines are not followed. Personal
hygiene, time–temperature abuse, and cross contamination are the main causes of
foodborne illness.
Personal Hygiene
Good personal hygiene is the first step in preventing the spread of foodborne
illness. Bacteria are present on our skin, hair, eyes, nose, mouth, and hands.
These bacteria can be transferred to food and food contact surfaces and, given the
right conditions, can multiply in food and make people sick. Regular hand washing
is the most effective defense against the spread of foodborne illnesses.
Here are 10 ways to reduce foodborne illness:
1. Do not work if you are sick.
2. Wear a clean uniform.
3. Properly restrain hair with a hat or hairnet.
4. Keep facial hair neatly trimmed.
5. Do not touch your face or head at work.
6. Remove jewelry at work.
7. Cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing.
8. Wash hands as needed when working:
• After eating, drinking, break
• After using restroom
• After working with anything that may be contaminated
9. Wear rubber gloves when working with finished food items.
10. Wear rubber gloves when wearing a bandage.
Rubber gloves are not a complete solution to stopping the spread of foodborne
illness. In fact, if used improperly, they can be just as bad as not washing your
hands. Gloves are not a substitute for hand washing. Gloves should be worn when
working with foods that are not going to be heated again for service. This will
reduce the risk of contaminating the food with bacteria on your hands. The gloves
should only be worn when handling food—opening doors and gathering equipment
should be done prior to putting the gloves on.
Time–Temperature Abuse
There are ideal conditions under which bacteria will grow; however, through the
use of time and temperature, we can control the bacteria’s ability to reproduce. In
addition to time and temperature, bacteria require a moist, neutral environment,
and oxygen. Bacteria can grow in the presence (aerobic) or absence (anaerobic) of
oxygen, and this is true for the bacteria that cause foodborne illness as well.
FIGURE 1.1 Thermometer showing temperature ranges for bacteria growth

The best tool in the kitchen to fight against microorganisms is a thermometer.
When storing food, keep it under 41°F (5°C) in the refrigerator or above 140°F (60°
C) for serving. When held at these temperatures, the bacteria will not be killed but
the growth will be slowed down. Food stored between this range—41°F (5°C) to
140°F (60°C)—is in the food danger zone. The maximum time for food to be
stored in the danger zone is 4 hours. This range is ideal for the reproduction of
bacteria and it grows at a very fast rate. Food stored in this range for more than 4
hours should be discarded.
Cross Contamination
Cross contamination is the process of unknowingly transferring bacteria or
microorganisms from one surface to another surface or food. It usually occurs
between raw and cooked foods and can occur during storage. Raw items in the
bakeshop—for example, egg products—should be stored on the bottom shelf of

coolers to prevent raw egg product from getting on finished items. Preventing cross
contamination can be done by washing hands, changing cutting boards, and
washing and sanitizing workstations throughout the day. The proper use of rubber
gloves can also reduce the possibility of cross contamination.
Food Allergies
A food allergen is an exaggerated immune response triggered by certain proteins
in food. The most common symptoms of food allergies include tingling in the
mouth; hives; itching; swelling of the lips, tongue, or face; wheezing or trouble
breathing; abdominal pain, nausea, or diarrhea; and dizziness, lightheadedness, or
fainting. In severe cases, some people will go into anaphylactic shock, with
difficulty breathing, a drop in blood pressure, rapid pulse, and loss of
consciousness. In cases of severe reaction, emergency medical treatment is
necessary, as severe allergic reactions can lead to death.
Some people have an intolerance to certain foods. There is a difference between
intolerance and an allergy. An allergic reaction comes on every time the food is
eaten. Intolerance only manifests itself gradually, or only after consuming large
quantities of the food. Both may exhibit similar symptoms. Although food
intolerance can lead to chronic health issues, it is not imminently life threatening,
as food allergies sometimes are.
As a commitment to keeping the customer safe, it is important that food service
workers are aware of allergens in the food they serve. There are over 160 foods
that can cause allergic reactions—the Food Allergen Labeling and Consumer
Protection Act of 2004 (FALCPA) identifies the eight most common allergenic
foods. The U.S Food and Drug Administration (FDA) states that 90 percent of all
food allergies originate from this group of eight foods:
• Milk
• Eggs
• Fish
• Crustacean shellfish
• Tree nuts
• Peanuts
• Wheat
• Soybeans
Many of these allergens can be found in the pastry shop. Some may not be used
as an ingredient on their own but they may be part of a prepared item used in a
recipe. Understanding ingredients goes further than just understanding how the
ingredients work together. It also includes knowing what is in another ingredient.
For example, many pistachio pastes are made with almonds or almond oil, and a
person might not be allergic to pistachios but might be to almonds. The same holds
true for items produced in the pastry shop. While peanuts may only be contained in
a few items, they are present in the shop. Cross contamination can be enough to
cause some people to go into anaphylactic shock.
Tools and Equipment
Looking back in time, baking bread without any equipment was a laborious task.
Dough was mixed by hand and ovens were heated with wood. Fast forward to the
modern pastry shop, where mixers knead the dough, dividers portion the dough,
proof boxes reduce fermentation time, and oven temperatures are precisely
controlled. The tools and equipment of the pastry shop facilitate the job of the
pastry chef, reducing production times and helping to regulate consistency.
Tools
Air Tools
Airbrush
An airbrush is used for adding detail to pastillage, bonbons, chocolate showpieces,
and plated desserts. There are two types of airbrushes, single action and double
action. A single-action airbrush only controls the amount of air pressure and will
always spray a certain amount of color. A dual-action airbrush controls the amount
of colorant as well as the air pressure. Pressing down allows the air to flow and
pulling back sprays the color. The more the button is pressed down, the more
airflow will increase. The further the button is pulled back, the more paint will be
released.
Air compressor
The air compressor provides the air pressure for the airbrush.
Heat Tools
Alcohol Wick Burner

A small burner filled with denatured alcohol is used to melt and attach a small
piece of sugar to a showpiece.
Blowtorch
The blowtorch is used to caramelize sugar on a crème brûlée, unmold frozen
cakes from metal rings, and fasten sugar pieces on a showpiece. A large propane
blowtorch and smaller butane blowtorch are used throughout the book. The
smaller butane torch is useful for connecting delicate sugar pieces.
Hair Dryer
The hair dryer with a cool setting is used to cool sugar work. It can be used to
rapidly cool pieces that have been attached, blown sugar, and larger cast pieces.
Heat Gun
The heat gun is used for warming melted chocolate and to keep it tempered. It can
also be used to warm tools when working with chocolate or to unmold frozen cakes
from metal rings.
Scales and Thermometers
Digital Scale
A digital scale is a battery-powered device used to measure ingredients by weight.
Use a digital scale that is made of kitchen-safe materials with a maximum weight of
at least 5 lb (2.267 kg). A smaller scale that can measure 0.003 oz (0.1 g) will be
needed for the recipes in Chapter 4, “Modern Pastry Techniques.”
Digital Thermometer with Probe

A digital thermometer with probe can be used for cooking sugar, checking oil
temperature when frying, and checking the temperature of ganache. Many of these
thermometers can be switched between Fahrenheit and centigrade.
Infrared Thermometer
Infrared thermometers can be used to quickly check the temperature of chocolate
when tempering. They only read surface temperature, so it is important to stir
thoroughly before checking the temperature to get an accurate reading. Infrared
thermometers are not good for checking the temperature of boiling liquids.
Specialty Hand Tools
Chocolate-Dipping Forks
Chocolate-dipping forks are used for hand-dipped chocolates. They can be
purchased in sets or as individual pieces. The shape of the fork is designed
specifically for the candy they are used to dip. A hoop is used for round truffles and
forks are used for square or elongated pieces.
Metal Bars
Food safe metal bars of varying thickness can be used for spreading cake layers,
chocolate, and casting sugar.
Microplane
A microplane is a very fine grater used for removing the zest of citrus fruits or
grating chocolate.
Sauce Gun
A sauce gun is a funnel-shaped device that can dispense a liquid. The sauce gun
is useful for casting sugar, depositing liquor bonbons, glazing pastries, and saucing
dessert plates for large functions.
Sugar Pump
A sugar pump is a rubber air bladder connected to a copper tip by a rubber hose. It
is used to inflate blown sugar.
Equipment
Mixers
Mixers are found in every pastry shop. Their sizes range from small, 5 qt (4.73 L)
table-top models up to 60 qt (56.78 L) floor models. The mixer can perform the
work of a person in a fraction of the time. Pastry chefs are able to mix large
quantities of doughs in short periods of time, which reduces the amount of time a
product is in the danger zone.
Vertical Mixer
Vertical mixers come in countertop, table, and floor models. In these models, the
bowl remains in place while the attachment moves in a planetary motion,
thoroughly mixing all ingredients in the bowl. There are three attachments used in
vertical mixers: paddle, whip, and dough hook.
FIGURE 1.2 Countertop mixer

(Image courtesy of Hobart)
1. Paddle—a flat attachment that can be used to combine ingredients. Using the
paddle at a higher speed will incorporate air into a batter. It is not able to
incorporate as much as air as the whip.
2. Whip—also known as a wire whip. The whip is used to incorporate air into
cream, eggs, and batters. When using the whip attachment, be sure to not
overfill the bowl. There needs to be enough space in the bowl for the whip to
work properly and aerate the product. This is dependent on the ingredient you
are whipping; it is recommended that the bowl not be filled over halfway for
most applications.
3. Dough hook—a hook-shaped attachment used for developing gluten.
FIGURE 1.3a–c Dough hook, paddle, and whip

(Images courtesy of Hobart)
Spiral Mixer
Spiral mixers are used for developing gluten in bread doughs. The bowl of the
mixer turns while the mixing attachment stays in a stationary position. Spiral mixers
can quickly develop gluten while not overmixing the dough. They create less
friction, resulting in a lower final dough temperature and ensuring a more
consistent fermentation. The shortened mixing time also prevents oxidation of the
flour, leaving the interior of the bread with a darker color.
FIGURE 1.4 Spiral mixer

(Image courtesy of Hobart)
Dough Handlers
The production of bread can be facilitated through the use of dough-handling
equipment. This line of products covers a wide range of items to assist in
fermentation and shaping.
Divider
The divider does exactly what the name implies: It divides the dough. Scaling
dough by hand for rolls can be a tedious task, but by using a divider, this process
can be handled quickly and produce uniform pieces of dough. After fermenting the
dough, it is scaled into a large press: Making the press larger will result in larger
rolls. The dough is then briefly rested. The dough is placed into the divider and cut
into equal pieces. The number of pieces can vary, depending on the size of the
machine and the cutter head that is being used.
FIGURE 1.5 Divider

(Image courtesy of American Baking Systems, Inc.)
Divider Rounder
The divider rounder takes the dividing process one step further. After cutting the
dough into equal portions, it then mechanically rounds the dough.
FIGURE 1.6 Divider rounder

Dough Sheeter
A dough sheeter is a mechanized rolling system. It consists of two conveyer belts
with a pair of adjustable rollers in the middle. The front of the sheeter has a dial
control that adjusts the opening between the rollers; the numbers refer to the
thickness in millimeters. The lower the number, the thinner the dough will become.
The dough sheeter can reduce rolling times and produce a uniform thickness
throughout the entire piece of dough.
FIGURE 1.7 Dough sheeter

Proof Box
A proof box provides the ideal humidity and temperature for fermenting yeast
doughs. The temperature and humidity can be adjusted depending on the type of
dough. There are portable and fixed-mounted proof boxes.
A proofer retarder is closely related to a proof box, with the added feature of being
able to retard the dough. A retarder is a refrigerator that contains moisture to
prevent the dough from drying out. Dough can be placed in the proofer retarder at
the end of an evening shift, and a timer can be set to switch the retarder off and
turn on the proof box. This provides the pastry chefs with dough ready to go into
the oven when they arrive in the morning.
FIGURE 1.8 Proof box

(Image courtesy of LBC Bakery Equipment, Inc.)
Ovens
The oven is the heart of the pastry shop. There are many styles of ovens available.
Often times, the deciding factor on the type of oven is the amount of space in the
pastry shop. Many shops contain two types of ovens, one conventional and one
convection, to meet the baking needs of different products.
Deck Oven
A deck oven is also known as a hearth oven. This oven contains a ceramic deck.
Sheet pans are placed directly on the deck, and in the case of artisan-style breads,
they are baked directly on the deck with no pan. This allows the heat to quickly
transfer into the bread dough. Deck ovens are also equipped with steam injection.
Steam injection helps in crust formation of breads.
FIGURE 1.9 Deck oven

(Image courtesy of LBC Bakery Equipment, Inc.)
Rack Oven
A rack oven is a convection oven with steam injection. A rack filled with sheet pans
of product is loaded into the oven. The rack is then spun on a carousel inside the
oven. This movement, combined with the convection, provides a good circulation of
air and promotes even baking. The rack allows for quick loading of larger quantities
of pastries, making it ideal for production.
FIGURE 1.10 Rack oven

(Image courtesy of Baxter)
Mechanical Oven
The interior of a mechanical oven is similar to a Ferris wheel. Metal trays inside
the oven rotate the product around the oven, which helps to reduce hot spots.
There can be four to six shelves inside a mechanical oven. Mechanical ovens have
a large footprint; they take up a considerable amount of space in the bakeshop.
However, they can also bake a large quantity of baked goods at one time.
FIGURE 1.11 Convection oven

(Image courtesy of Baxter)
Convection Oven
A convection oven forces air through the oven cavity. Pushing hot air around the
food increases the heat transfer. As a rule of thumb, convection ovens are 50°F
(10°C) warmer than a conventional oven. Products baked in a convection oven will
bake slightly faster than a conventional oven, resulting in more moisture retention
in the final product.
Combi Oven
A combi oven is a multipurpose oven that can function as a steamer or convection
oven, or it can be used as both a steamer and convection oven at the same time. It
is an extremely precise piece of equipment. Combi ovens can also be used to cook
sous vide (under vacuum) in combi mode.
FIGURE 1.12 Combi oven

(Image courtesy of Vulcan)
Freezers
Blast Freezer
A blast freezer is an extremely cold freezer that rapidly decreases the temperature
of foods. Blast freezers can be used to quickly set ice cream extruded from a batch
chiller without losing air, or to set mousses and creams for quick unmolding. The
speed at which the water is frozen in the food produces small crystals, which
results in less damage to the food. Once the food is frozen in the blast chiller, it is
transferred to a conventional freezer for storage.
FIGURE 1.13 Blast chiller

(Image courtesy of Irinox North America)
Food Processors
Robot Coupe
A Robot Coupe is a professional-grade food processor. It can be used to chop
nuts, purée fruits, and emulsify ganache.
FIGURE 1.14 Robot Coupe and Blixer

(Photos courtesy of Robot Coupe USA, Inc.)
Robot Coupe Blixer

The Robot Coupe Blixer is a combination food processor and blender. It has
adjustable speeds and can quickly purée food. It is especially useful for processing
chocolate for rollouts.
Vitamix
A Vitamix is a high-speed blender that can be used for purées and blending dense
ingredients. It has adjustable speeds and is more powerful than a regular blender.
FIGURE 1.15 Vitamix

(Photo courtesy of Vitamix)
Immersion Blenders
Immersion blenders, also known as stick blenders, are used to blend ingredients.
They can be used in the container the products were initially mixed in. They can be
used to emulsify frozen dessert bases, ganache, fruit sauces, and to temper
chocolate using the seeding method. Immersion blenders do not possess the same
power as a Vitamix.
FIGURE 1.16 Immersion blender

(Image courtesy of Waring)
Mise en Place
Mise en place is the French term for “putting in place.” This term is used in
professional pastry shops to refer to the organization of ingredients, equipment,
and the individual workstation, as well as the mental preparation required. All of
these things help to reduce the time needed to prepare items correctly.
If you recall earlier in the chapter, understanding ingredients is a skill that is
important in being successful in the pastry shop. An understanding of ingredients
and their function in a recipe can direct the pastry chef as to how they are to be
assembled in a recipe. Now we begin to connect the dots. We know the ingredients
and the method, so the next step is to gather the tools to complete the recipe.
Understanding the method will ensure that the tools are gathered and the
workstation is organized to produce the recipe.
An important part of mise en place is mental preparation. In classes, mental
preparation includes covering reading material before class, arriving to class on
time ready to go, and taking notes to assist with the daily proficiencies. Work is
similar—mentally preparing before work for the day ahead. Whether it is banquet
production, cake orders, or service on the line, a great deal of thought, planning,
and preparation goes into making every day successful. Organizing the production
of banquet items to have a smooth flow of work, or organizing prep work and
station setup prior to dinner service for working on the line, is critical to the success
of the operation.
Key Terms
Physical contamination
Chemical contamination
Biological contamination
Food danger zone
Cross contamination
Propane blowtorch
Microplane
Sauce gun
Vertical mixer
Paddle
Whip
Dough hook
Spiral mixer
Sheeter
Deck oven
Mechanical oven
Convection oven
Combi oven
Blast chiller
Mise en place
Questions for Review

1. List the eight major food allergens.
2. There are five types of ovens used in the pastry shop. Select two and discuss
the differences between them.
3. Why is good personal hygiene so critical in stopping the spread of bacteria?
4. How can foodborne illness be prevented?
5. What are the four skills necessary for being successful in the pastry kitchen?
Bread for the Pastry Chef Page 1 of 49
CHAPTER 2
Bread for the Pastry Chef
The importance of bread can be easily observed by looking back in history to the
Roman Empire. In order to keep the citizens happy, free bread was given at the
Coliseum. The importance of bread cannot be ignored; historically, it has been
shown that bread has influenced the success and failures of war and the ability to
feed the hungry. Today, the art of bread baking is returning to its roots. Pastry
chefs and bakers are producing excellent products combining old-world skills and
modern technology.
http://e.pub/cylivtxp074s54nalicj.vbk/OPS/c02.xhtml 7/10/2020
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Convert a recipe using baker’s percentage.
2. Determine desired dough temperature for straight doughs and doughs with
multiple factors.
3. Identify the difference between a sourdough and preferment.
4. Properly mix dough using the short, intense, and improved mixing
methods.
5. Present the 14 steps of bread baking.
Introduction to Bread
As part of a sandwich or an accompaniment with a meal, bread is a part of
everyday life. Bread’s production can be considered more complex than many
other items in the pastry kitchen because it is alive. Yeast is used in bread baking
to leaven the bread and develop flavor—this can only be done by feeding it and
providing the correct environment for it to grow. Understanding what is happening
and how each process impacts the following step will help to ensure the proper
flavor and texture are developed in the baked loaf. Many variables affect the
production of bread. To control the process, it is critical to thoroughly understand
ingredients, formula percentages, fermentation, and mixing methods.
Ingredients and Function

Wheat Flours
Flour can come from a wide variety of sources; it is produced by grinding grains,
seeds, or roots. The earliest evidence of flour was over 30,000 years ago.
Throughout history, the rise and fall of civilizations can be traced back to a simple
grain. Napoleon’s quickly advancing army could not maintain the grain supply. As a
result, starvation set in; his troops were weakened, and this eventually led to their
defeat. The Civil War was also won by grain; the North had the grains to feed the
troops while the South had cotton. Grains played an important role in history;
today, we still rely on grains for nourishment.
Wheat flour is the main ingredient in bread. Today, flour is easily accessible in
many forms and is grown throughout the United States. It is broken down into six
classes: hard red winter, hard red spring, soft red winter, hard white winter, soft
white spring, and durum.
Hard flours are higher in protein content and are best suited for breads. Soft wheat
flour is lower in protein and is milled for use in cakes, cookies, and pastries. Winter
wheat is grown in the southern United States as far north as Kansas. Seeds are
planted in October. The wheat begins to grow, and once winter arrives and
temperatures drop, it goes dormant. Once spring arrives, the wheat continues
growing until it is harvested in May. Spring flours are grown from the same
southern region and continue north into parts of Canada. Seeds are planted in
spring and grow during the spring and summer. Harvesting is completed during
mid to late summer.
There is no noticeable difference between red and white flours, other than the
color. Nutritional values are comparable: The difference lies in the protein contents.
Winter wheats have an average protein content of 11% to 12%, while the average
protein in spring wheat is 13% to 15%. Wheat protein holds up better under long
fermentation times. The extra protein in spring wheat makes it ideal for bread
baked in pans and breads that contain grains. The extra strength of the flour helps
to support the additional weight of the grains.
When the wheat kernel is harvested, it must be processed into flour. The inner
portion of the wheat kernel is protected by the pericarp. The pericarp is composed
of seven layers. Its main purpose is to protect the wheat kernel. Directly under the
pericarp is the bran. Endosperm is located under the bran. The starch and protein
found in white flour is milled from this layer. The endosperm provides the food for
the wheat germ. Wheat germ contains fats, vitamins, and minerals—this is the part
of the embryo of the wheat kernel that creates the next plant.
When milling white flours (bread, all-purpose, cake, and pastry), many nutrients are
lost through the removal of the bran. Many of these flours will state that they are
“enriched.” Enriched foods have the nutrients that were naturally present in the
unprocessed state returned after processing. In the case of wheat flour, thiamin,
riboflavin, niacin, folic acid, and iron are replaced after milling. The requirements
for labeling a product as enriched are regulated by the FDA.
Specialty Flours
Wheat isn’t the only grain milled to make bread. Many other grains and seeds can
be milled to produce flour that will change the texture and flavor of the finished
product. Utilizing different flours can provide more than just a different flavor—they
contribute to the structure, texture, and nutritional value of the bread.
Rye Flour
Rye flour comes in many different forms—pumpernickel, dark, medium, light or
white rye, whole rye berries, or cracked rye berries. Rye can be used at lower
levels (5% to 10%) and flavor the bread while providing a slightly darker color.
When used in higher percentages, the difference between rye and wheat flour will
be very clear.
Compared to wheat flour, rye is considerably lower in gluten and requires more
liquid to properly hydrate. The gluten formed is also very delicate. Mixing at a high
speed will cause the gluten to tear and release water back into the dough, resulting
in a sticky dough. This can be prevented by mixing at lower speeds for shorter
periods of time. As the percentage of rye flour increases, more care must be taken.
Semolina Flour
Semolina is a finely ground wheat flour produced from durum wheat. When used in
bread recipes, it gives the bread a slightly yellow tint and adds crunch to the crust.
It can be used in small quantities or to replace the flour 100%. The high protein
content requires more hydration and longer mixing times to properly develop the
gluten.
Protein Contents in Flours
Protein Content Flour
7% Cake
9% Pastry
11% Rye flour
11% All-purpose
13% Patent
14% High-gluten
15% Clear flour
21% Semolina flour
Grains and Seeds

Grains and seeds are often used in bread to add texture and flavor. Common
grains and seeds used in breads are sunflower, sesame, flax, oats, millet, cracked
wheat and rye, wheat berries, and corn meal. Before using these in bread making,
they must first be placed in water. Placing grains or seeds in an equal amount of
water and allowing them to soak for several hours is known as a soaker. Using the
soaker allows the seeds and grains to absorb water. Not soaking these products
will cause moisture to be pulled from the dough during the first fermentation. When
mixed this dough had the proper hydration, but now will be dry and stiff. Soaking
also softens the grains, prevents cutting the gluten strands during mixing, and
provides a better texture to the grains and seeds in the finished product.
Cold and Hot Soakers

There are two ways that grains and seeds can be soaked, cold and hot. A cold
soak is the process of soaking the grains or seeds in room-temperature water, 72°
F (22°C), for several hours or overnight. The cold soak method does require more
time; to speed up the process, a hot soak can be used. To hot soak, bring the
water to a boil, pour over grains and seeds to cover, and allow to soak for a few
hours. Be sure the soaked grains have cooled completely before mixing into the
dough. Adding a soaker that is still warm or hot will increase the dough
temperature and speed fermentation.
Which method is the best to use? That depends on how much time you have. If
needed quickly, a hot soak is recommended. What are you soaking? The size and
type of grain will determine which to use. If your grains are still crunchy in the
finished product after a cold soak, test the next time with a hot soak. Ultimately, it
comes down to personal preference. The recipes in this book are presented with
what was felt to yield the best results after testing.
Liquid
It would be impossible to create bread dough without any liquid. The primary liquid
used in the production of breads is water. Flour is hydrated with liquids, allowing for
the formation of gluten. It goes much further than this; liquids dissolve the yeast,
salt, and sugars and disperse them throughout the other ingredients. Water begins
the enzymatic activity. The ratio of flour to water can create a stiff dough with a
tight crumb or a slack dough with a loose crumb and crispy crust. Water is also
used to control fermentation. It is the medium that makes the sugars available to
the yeast. Adjusting water temperature is the simplest way to control fermentation.
If the kitchen is too hot, cold or even ice water can be used. If it is too cold in the
kitchen, warmer water can be used to achieve the desired dough temperature after
mixing (more on desired dough temperature on pages 30–32).
Milk, which is primarily water, is also used in producing bread. Milk is composed of
water, lactose (sugar), fat, and milk solids. The small percentage of fat in milk,
3.6%, is enough to soften the crust of the dough. Lactose present in the milk
browns during baking and gives the soft crust its deep color and flavor.
Salt
Salt is used to enhance the flavor of the bread that develops during fermentation
and baking. If the bread does not have enough salt, it will have a flat flavor. In most
recipes, the salt can range from 1.8% to 2% of the weight of the flour. This
depends on the dough—formulas that include grains and seeds will have a higher
percentage of salt to account for the additional ingredients.
Flavor is only one benefit of salt; this small percentage of salt has profound
impacts on the dough. It strengthens the gluten structure of the bread. Without salt
in the dough, it will be difficult to work and be sticky. Salt can be added directly to
the dry ingredients at the start of the mixing process or at the end. The addition of
salt at the end of mixing allows the gluten to begin forming and allows more time
for enzymatic process to occur. (See Autolyse on page 35.)
Yeast also benefits from the addition of salt. Many older bakers will say that salt
kills yeast, but this is not the case: Salt does not technically kill the yeast. Instead,
it slows the fermentation process by water absorption. Too much salt in bread will
give a salty flavor, but it will also hinder fermentation and significantly reduce the
final size and extend the fermentation time. The color of the final loaf is also
affected by salt. As a result of salt slowing the sugar consumption by the yeast,
there is more sugar available to create a brown crust.
Yeast
Without yeast, bread would not develop the flavor and texture we have come to
know and love. The pastry chef must fully understand yeast to produce great
bread. In addition to providing flavor and leavening, yeast also strengthens and
develops gluten in the dough. The role of yeast is critical in bread baking. A closer
examination into how yeast works will provide the information necessary to
understand and control the fermentation process.
Commercial kitchens most commonly purchase yeast in four forms, fresh or cake
yeast, active dry, osmotolerant, or instant. Fresh yeast is a highly perishable but
consistent product. It should be combined with a small amount of the liquid from
the recipe to create a paste before using. Fresh yeast has traditionally been the
preferred yeast of bakers and pastry chefs.
However, improvements in the quality of active dry and instant yeast have replaced
the use of fresh yeast for many bakers because they provide convenience and an
increase in consistency. Active dry yeast requires rehydration prior to being added
to the dough, while instant yeast can be directly added to the dough. These yeasts
products all have different strengths and cannot be substituted equally in a recipe.
The following table provides conversions for yeasts.
Fresh yeast is available through local distributors and is sold in 1 lb (454 g) units,
with a shelf life of 1 to 2 weeks under refrigeration. Active dry and instant yeasts
are sold in 1 lb (454 g) vacuum bags. They are stored at room temperature. Once
opened, they can be refrigerated for up to 4 months. If unsure if any of these
yeasts have expired, combine a small amount of yeast, sugar, flour, and some
water. If the mixture does not begin to ferment after 20 minutes, it is time to replace
it.
FIGURE 2.1 Instant, active, and fresh yeast.
Yeast Conversions
Fresh Active Dry Instant
Fresh 1 oz 2 oz 3 oz
Active Dry 0.5 oz 1 oz 1.5 oz
Instant 0.33 oz 0.66 oz 1 oz
Recipes that contain more than 10% sugar and/or fat benefit from using
osmotolerant yeast. Sugar and yeast compete for the available water in the
formula, but the sugar can more easily absorb the water, making it difficult for the
yeast to grow. Osmotolerant yeast is able to ferment in these doughs despite the
lack of water. If you do not have osmotolerant yeast available, substitute instant
yeast and increase the quantity by 30%.
In addition to water, yeast requires food. The primary foods for yeast are sugar and
carbohydrates. Fermentation occurs when the yeast consumes the sugar and
carbohydrates. During the early stages of fermentation, simple sugars are
consumed by the yeast. The more complex carbohydrates are enzymatically
broken down into simple sugars and consumed later in the fermentation process.
When the dough is first mixed, there is oxygen in the dough and the yeast is
aerobic. During this phase, the yeast produces carbon dioxide and alcohol as
byproducts. The oxygen is quickly consumed and the yeast switches over to an
anaerobic state. This means the yeast does not need oxygen to grow. It is also
during this stage that organic acids begin to form. These organic acids contribute a
great deal to the flavor and aroma of the bread as well as strengthen the dough
and increase shelf life.
Sugars
Sugar provides sweetness to the bread and a rich brown crust. It can be found in
bread in many forms, such as granulated sugar, molasses, honey, or malt syrup.
Sugar is the primary food for yeast, but like salt, it absorbs water and can slow
down fermentation by pulling water away from the yeast. As the percentage of
sugar increases in the recipe, so will the amount of yeast.
Most breads contain 5% or less of sugar. The more sugar in a recipe, the more it
will brown. Oven temperature may need to be reduced to prevent the crust, or
bottom of the bread, from burning before it fully bakes. Recipes that include a large
amount of sugar (20% to 30%) need to have the sugar added in two steps. Up to
12% can be mixed at the beginning of the mixing, with the remainder added at the
end. Sugar is hygroscopic and absorbs water, adding too much at the beginning of
the mixing will reduce the amount of water available to the flour, creating a weak
gluten structure.
Malt
Malt is produced by germinating grains, typically barley. The grains are soaked in
water until they begin to sprout. Once sprouted, the grains are dried with hot air to
stop the sprouting. At this point, the grain has developed the enzyme amylose,
which is necessary to convert the starch in the grain to maltose. Malt can be
purchased in two forms, diastatic and nondiastatic. Nondiastatic malt is dried at a
higher temperature than diastatic malt; as a result, all the enzymes are destroyed.
Nondiastatic malt will provide easily processed sugars to the yeast and sweetness
to the bread. Diastatic malt has some additional benefits due to the some of the
enzymes remaining active. It still maintains the primary function of providing
nutrients for the yeast and aids in converting starch in the dough into sugar, and
the additional sugar provides a boost to the yeast.
Eggs
Eggs provide structure, color, and flavor to the bread. The flavor of the egg comes
from the yolk and the fats it contains. These fats also tenderize the bread. If used
in larger quantities, they can also give a rich yellow color to the dough. The white is
mostly water and does not contribute any flavor. Breads with eggs will also develop
a brown crust more quickly, and, as a result, reduced oven temperature may be
needed for breads containing eggs.
Fats
Fats are used in bread to add flavor and shorten the gluten. There are many fats
available for baking bread, yet unsalted butter and olive oil are typically used.
Unsalted butter is preferred over salted butter, because it allows greater control
over the addition of salt. The function of fat in the dough is to add flavor and
tenderize the dough. All fats shorten the gluten. In small amounts, the fat controls
how much gluten can form, while in larger quantities it can almost prevent it from
forming. In the case of bread dough, too much fat in the recipe added too early can
create a dough with a very weak gluten structure. For more information on adding
fat to bread dough, see the brioche mixing method. Doughs that include fat tend to
have a softer crust and texture.
Math
Baker’s Percentage
Introduction to Baker’s Percentages
As a student starting out in a new career, a recipe is viewed as a list of ingredients
and a method for assembling them. Yet there is much more information contained
in this “simple” list of ingredients, such as baker’s percentages. The recipes
included in this text will have ingredients in U.S. and metric quantities alongside
baker’s percentage. Baker’s percentage is the percentage of the weight of an
ingredient in relation to the weight of the flour. Through an understanding of
baker’s percentage, a chef can increase or decrease the yield of a recipe, make
adjustments to the ratios, and even know what the recipe produces just by the list
of ingredients and the percentages.
When working with baker’s percentage, there are three rules to remember:
1. The weight of the flour is always 100%, due to the fact that almost all recipes
include flour. If there is more than one flour in the recipe, the total of all flour
weights is 100%.
2. To find the percentage of an ingredient, always divide the ingredient by the flour
weight. Example = Sugar weight/Flour weight.
3. The total percentage for the recipe will always be over 100%.
Baker’s percentage is used in recipes that contain flour. As your career continues
and you start to become more familiar with baker’s percentage, you will be able to
predict the consistency of the final product. For example, when examining the
percentage of an ingredient such as water to the flour, the final consistency of the
product can be determined. A recipe that is 50% water would produce a final
product having the characteristics of a dough. It can be rolled and cut. As the
percentage of water increases, the mixture will become more of a batter that can
be scooped and baked, or even poured. Recipes in this text that do not contain
flour will be based on the total weight of the recipe being 100%.
Calculating Ingredient Percentages

In the following example, we will calculate baker’s percentage for a baguette
formula.
Baguette
Ingredient Pounds Ounces
Bread Flour 2 2
Salt 0.67
Instant Yeast 0.15
Water 1 4
Yields: Five 11 oz loaves

The first step is to convert the amounts to the same unit of measure. When using
U.S. measurements, this can be done by converting all ingredients to pounds or
ounces. Due to the small quantities of yeast and salt in the recipe, it would be best
to convert all of the ingredients to ounces. To begin, multiply the pound weight of
the flour by 16 ounces and add this to the 2 ounces.
Bread flour
2 lb 2 oz
2 × 16 = 32 oz
32 oz + 2 oz = 34 oz
The total weight in ounces of bread flour is 34 ounces. Now perform the same
process for the water.
Ingredient Ounces
Bread Flour 34
Salt 0.67
Instant Yeast 0.15
Water 20
The second step is to calculate the percentages of all ingredients. Refer to the
rules of calculating baker’s percentage on the preceding page. Remember, the
flour is always 100%. So to calculate the percentage of salt, yeast, and water,
divide the weight of these ingredients by the weight of the flour and multiply this
number by 100.
Salt
(0.67 / 34) × 100 = Percentage of salt
0.0197 × 100 = 1.97% salt
Note: It is recommended to keep at least two decimal places when calculating
percentages. When converting a recipe from a small test batch to large production
batch, rounding the salt to 2% could result in the dough having too much salt. The
same is true when rounding down. Therefore, when increasing and decreasing
recipes, results will be more consistent when they are not rounded to whole
numbers. Using a spreadsheet such as Excel will help you to simplify recipe
conversions.
Yeast
(0.15 / 34) × 100 = Percentage of instant yeast
0.0044 × 100 =
0.44% Instant yeast
Water
(20 / 34) × 100 = Percentage of water
0.5882 × 100 =
58.82% Water
After calculating the percentage of all the ingredients, a new table can be created.
At this point, the weights of the ingredients can be discarded; the percentages
provide all the information needed to calculate the quantities.
Ingredient Percentage
Bread Flour 100.00%
Salt 1.97%
Instant Yeast 0.44%
Water 58.82%
The percentages are then added together to calculate the formula’s total
percentage. Remember, when using baker’s percentage, the total percentage of a
formula will always be more than 100%.
Ingredient Percentage
Bread Flour 100.00%
Salt 1.97%
Instant Yeast 0.44%
Water 58.82%
Total 161.23%
Calculating a Formula Using Percentages

The total percentage can now be used to scale the recipe up or down, which is an
important function in the bakeshop. In this next step, we need to know the total
amount of dough needed. The calculations for this example will need to yield a
total of 50 baguettes; each baguette will be scaled at 11 ounces.
To calculate the total weight of dough needed, multiply the amount of loaves by the
weight per loaf:
Total dough needed = loaves × Weight per loaf
Total dough needed = 50 × 11 oz
Total dough needed = 550 oz
The 550 oz of total dough needed is then divided by the total percentage. This will
provide the conversion factor.
Conversion factor = Total dough needed / Total percentage
Conversion factor = 550 oz / 161.23%
Conversion factor = 3.41
The next step is to multiply the percentages of the ingredients.
Ingredient Percentage Conversion Factor Multiplied by Ounces

Prozentualer Anteil
Ingredient Percentage Conversion Factor Multiplied by Ounces

Prozentualer Anteil
Bread Flour 100.00% 3.41 × 100 = 341
Salt 1.97% 3.41 × 1.97 = 6.72
Instant 0.44% 3.41 × 0.44 = 1.5

Yeast
Water 58.82% 3.41 × 58.82 = 200.58
Total 161.23% 549.8
The total dough needed to produce 55 baguettes was 550 ounces. The impact of
carrying only two decimal points before rounding can be witnessed with how close
the conversion was to the original needs. It is always better to have a little extra
product than what is needed when producing bread; making a few ounces of extra
dough would be acceptable.
Lastly, convert the ounces to pounds by dividing the ingredient totals by 16. Then
multiply the remaining decimal (0.31 × 16) to convert the decimal back to ounces.
Ingredient Percentage Ounces Final Weights
Bread Flour 100.00% 341 341/16 = 21.31 21 lb 2 oz
Salt 1.97% 6.72 6.72 oz
Instant Yeast 0.44% 1.5 1.5 oz
Water 58.82% 200.58 200.58/16 = 12.54 12 lb 8.5 oz
Total 161.23%
Calculating a Formula with Two or More Flours

Some formulas contain more than one type of flour. In these instances the total of
the flours are totaled to equal 100%.
Example
Calculating Percentage with More Than One Flour
Ingredient Weight
Bread Flour 9.0 lb
Whole Wheat Flour 5.5 lb
The flours above are used together in a formula. Since both are flours, they are
combined. Add the bread flour and the whole wheat flour together: 14.5 pounds
represents 100%. To calculate how much each of the two ingredients contributes,
divide the individual flour weight by the total of the flours.
Bread flour/Total flour weight

(9.0 / 14.5) × 100 = Bread flour percentage
62% = Bread flour percentage
Whole wheat flour/Total flour weight
(5.5 / 14.5) × 100 = Whole wheat flour percentage
38% = Whole wheat flour percentage
The percentages of the flours are only used when calculating the weight of bread
flour or whole wheat flour is needed when converting a formula. When calculating
the percentage of the remaining ingredients in the formula, divide them by the total
of the flours, in this case 14.5 pounds.
Desired Dough Temperature

The pastry chef needs to understand and control all processes of bread
production—scaling, mixing, dough temperature, shaping, and baking. The series
of steps involved in making bread are affected by the preceding step. When mixing
bread dough, it is important to account for room temperature, ingredient
temperature, and friction from mixing. The goal is to provide the desired dough
temperature (DDT) in the range of 75 to 78°F (24–26°C).
This temperature range provides the ideal temperature for fermentation. If the
dough is too hot, fermentation occurs too quickly. The flavor of the bread will be
lacking and the dough will be weak. Dough that is coming off the mixer too cold will
ferment slowly and will take considerably longer to process.
The only variable the pastry chef/baker can truly control is the temperature of the
water. While a certain level of control can be placed on room temperature, there
will be changes throughout the course of a day as well as seasonal changes. The
temperature of the flour is often constant with the room temperature.
DDT is nothing more than the average of the temperatures of the three
components. When calculating for a straight dough the variables are the room
temperature, flour temperature, water temperature, and friction from mixing. For
this example we will use a DDT of 75°F (24°C). When calculating for a straight
dough, multiply the DDT by 3. This is known as the total temperature factor.
75°F × 3 = Total temperature factor
225°F = Total temperature factor
Room temperature and flour temperature are taken with a thermometer and
recorded into the formula. Depending on the type of mixer used, speed and time of
mixing will change the temperature increase from friction. Unless calculating the
friction factor manually, the average increase of dough temperature during mixing
is 26°F (14.4°C) for most mixers. To calculate the friction factor manually, scale a
batch of dough using the average of 26°F (14.4°C). Calculate the water
temperature from the following table. If the dough is 2°F (1°C) warmer than the
DDT, increase the friction factor for this mixer by 2 degrees to 28°F (15.4°C).
DDT for Straight Dough
Total Temperature Factor 225°F
Minus Flour Temperature 72°F
Minus Room Temperature 70°F
Minus Friction Factor 26°F
Water Temperature 57°F
Desired Dough Temperature with Multiple Factors

When calculating the DDT for straight dough, the temperature of the flour, room,
and friction must be accounted for. Many breads contain a preferment or sour. Due
to adding another component into the dough, adjustments need to be made to
calculate water temperature. When calculating with multiple factors, multiply the
DDT by 4 to determine the total temperature factor. For this example, we will use a
DDT of 75°F (24°C).
75°F × 4 = Total temperature factor
300°F = Total temperature factor
DDT with Multiple Factors
Total Temperature Factor 300°F
Minus Flour Temperature 72°F
Minus Room Temperature 70°F
Minus Friction Factor 26°F
Minus Preferment Temperature 78°F
Water Temperature 54°F
In this example, the flour, room, and friction factor remained the same from the
straight dough example. The addition of the preferment has decreased the
temperature of the water by 3°F (1.6°C). Calculating the DDT is not a proven
science. The process helps to create consistency in fermentation times and flavor
of the bread. The best results are achieved through testing and recording
temperatures in a log. This will facilitate the calculation of the water temperature.
Sour Starters
Sourdough bread can be traced back several thousand years. While there is no
clearly defined origin, sourdough starters provided a way to ferment bread when
yeast was not commercially available as it is today. Sourdough bread is often
shrouded in mystery. Where does it come from? How can I make it? Why are there
so many steps?
Sour starter is the mixture used to leaven sourdough bread, comprised of flour and
water. Commercial yeast is not used in the production of sourdough bread; instead,
it relies on naturally occurring yeast. Yeast is present all around us, on fruits and
vegetables, on table surfaces—even in the air. In nature, the concentrations of the
yeast are very low. When making a sour the natural yeast present on the rye flour
is activated when combined with water. Over a period of 24 hours, the yeast begins
to ferment and grow, increasing in strength. The yeast, along with bacteria, begin
working together to create the distinctive flavor of sourdough and leaven the bread.
This mixture is then fed over a series of days, increasing the amount of yeast and
developing the flavor of the starter.
FIGURE 2.2 A sour starter (left); and (at right) after fermenting for 12 hours.
The flavor of the starter comes from the bacteria lactobacilli, which is responsible
for producing lactic acid. There are two types of lactobacilli, homo-fermentive and
hetero-fermentive. Homo-fermentive converts sugars in the dough and produces a
mild-flavored lactic acid with yogurt characteristics. Hetero-fermentive converts
sugars into lactic acid, acetic acid, and carbon dioxide. As the starter is fed and
ages, the flavor will continue to become more complex.
In some cases, starters can be made with additional items such as honey, apples,
grapes, or even potatoes. These additional items add flavor to the starter and
additional yeast. How does this happen? Think of the wine-making process:
Grapes are crushed, and over a period of time, the mixture begins to ferment. This
is due to wild yeast present on the outside of the grapes. When making a sour, we
capture the yeast that is all around us and provide it with an ideal environment to
multiply. When beginning a starter, it is suggested that you use whole grain flours
such as whole wheat or rye; unbleached white flour is not recommended. Whole
grain flours contain more nutrients and microorganisms than more processed flours
and will facilitate the growth of the starter. The following process is a starter that
uses rye flour and honey.
Starting the Sour
Schedule Ingredients Starter Time before Next Feeding
Day 1 3 oz (85 g) White 24 hours

Rye Flour
3 oz (85 g) Bread
Flour
0.3 oz (8.5 g)
Honey
3 oz (85 g) Water
Starting the Sour
Schedule Ingredients Starter Time before Next Feeding

Day 2 5 oz (142 g) Bread 5 oz (142 24 hours
Flour g)
3 oz (85 g) Water

Flour g)
3 oz (85 g) Water

Flour g)
3 oz (85 g) Water
Day 5 5 oz (142 g) Bread 4 oz Ferment for 12 hours; starter is

Flour (113g) now ready to produce bread
3 oz (85 g) Water
Note: After the first day, a portion of the starter is discarded. This is a normal practice.
Keeping all of the starter would result in a large amount of sour that would need to be
discarded.
The process listed above depends on many factors; a sour is a combination of
science and art. As a result, the sour starter and feeding procedure may need to be
adjusted. The sour will continue to develop flavor with each feeding. The sour is
considered ripe when it is domed in the container and the center is just starting to
collapse. At this point, the yeast is most active and the flavor is not too acidic.
Adjustments to the initial mix quantity in the recipe and temperature of the storage
of the sour can help maintain the sour starter, so that it is ready when it is needed.
For example, if the sour is not active enough, you can add a small additional
amount of the previous batch to the feed, or increase the amount of water slightly.
Increasing the water will make the carbohydrates and nutrients in the sour more
available to yeast and bacteria, making them easier to process.
Dough temperature and time will also have an effect on when the sour is mature.
The warmer the temperature, the quicker it will mature. The goal is to have the
sour mature when you are ready to mix the final dough; schedule feedings at the
correct time. Temperature is always an issue in the bakeshop—summers are hot
and winters are cold. Try to find a consistent temperature for your starter. This may
mean setting a low temperature in proof box during winter months or near a cold
air vent in the summer. Remember, making adjustments is acceptable and often
times needed. Document what you have done so you can be consistent in future
feedings. Maintaining the sour starter can be done indefinitely—observe the
ripeness and make adjustments as needed.
Preferments
Preferments are an easy way to improve bread flavor, aroma, dough strength, and
shelf life. Most are made with flour, water, and yeast. The consistency can range
from a dough to a loose batter. The common types of preferments used in bread
production are prefermented dough, poolish, biga, and sponge.
Prefermented dough, also known as pâte fermentée or old dough, is used in

products that require a shortened first fermentation. It can be made from a simple
dough that is water, flour, yeast, and salt. The dough is allowed to mature and is
added during mixing. A more straightforward approach would be to save a piece of
dough from the day’s production. After mixing the dough, a piece large enough for
the next day’s production is removed and allowed to ferment at room temperature
for two hours. It is then placed in the refrigerator overnight. The next day, the
prefermented dough is added to the next batch and the process continues. The old
dough provides flavor (bacteria and fermentation) and strength to the next batch of
dough, and the new dough provides additional food for the yeast. Prefermented
dough can be 20% to 30% of the flour weight.
Poolish is of Polish origin, but was quickly adopted by the French and Austrians. A
poolish is equal parts flour and water, 100% hydration, which creates a very loose
batter. The resulting bread is lighter and less acidic compared to a traditional
fermented dough. The Italian counterpart to the poolish is a biga. A biga can range
from 50% to 100% hydration. At the lower percentage, it will be somewhat stiffer,
and at higher percentages it will be looser. The biga adds structure and flavor to
the bread. Breads using poolish and biga are highly extensible and have an
increased dough volume. Maturity is noted by these preferments just beginning to
collapse in the center. Undermaturing results in less flavor; overmaturing will cause
the poolish to have an unpleasant acidic flavor.
Mixing Methods
Straight
The simplest mixing method is the straight mixing method. In this method, all the
ingredients are added together. There are no additional preferments added to the
dough. As a result, the dough lacks flavor, extensibility, and shelf life.
Sponge
The sponge mixing method is used primarily for rich doughs. These doughs are
high in fat and sugars. The sponge allows the yeast to get a “head start” before
being added to the final dough. The use of a sponge allows the yeast to multiply
and begin developing flavor before the fat and sugar are added, which will slow
down fermentation. A sponge is yeast, flour, and liquid, and as it reaches
maturation, the preferment looks like a sponge. There are easily identifiable holes
in the sponge as it just begins to collapse. In addition to increased yeast activity,
the sponge provides strength to an otherwise compromised dough and flavor to the
final bread.
Brioche
Brioche is classified as Viennoiserie, and can have as much as 50% of the flour
weight in butter. This is a significant amount of fat. To assist with leavening, the
sponge method is used. Adding all the fat at the beginning of the mixing would
make it difficult to develop the dough and would take a long time. In the brioche
mixing method, after the sponge has matured, all ingredients, with the exception
of the butter, are added and developed into a dough. At this point, we can test the
dough with the window test to see if the gluten has fully developed. Once the
dough is developed, the butter is added slowly. Be sure the cold butter is
incorporated evenly throughout the dough and that mixing is done quickly. The
mixing time for brioche is long—as much as 15 minutes. Any additional mixing will
cause excess friction and increase the final dough temperature. This will make the
dough ferment too quickly.
Double Hydration
Soft doughs like ciabatta and pugliese can contain over 70% water. Developing
gluten in a highly hydrated dough can be difficult. To overcome this, in the double
hydration method, add 60% water to the weight of the flour. Allow the dough to
develop fully, then add the remaining water.
Minimal Mixing with Folds

Minimal mixing breads are also referred to as no-knead breads. These breads are
hydrated above 70%. When combining the ingredients, they are simply folded
together and should look like a shaggy mass. The dough is then left to rest for 30
minutes. The high hydration of this dough allows the gluten to develop easily. At
the end of the 30 minutes, the dough is folded; this procedure is done a total of six
times. Use care when working with doughs, using the minimal mixing method to
prevent degassing the dough fully and retaining some of the large air cells.
Autolyse
Raymond Calvel developed autolyse in 1974. In his procedure, the water and flour
are combined and rested for 30 minutes without fully mixing. He observed that the
gluten developed while resting. At the end of the rest period, the remaining
ingredients are added. The benefit of autolyse is a shortened mix time. This results
in a less oxidized dough, giving the dough a creamier color, large open crumb, and
improved flavor. It affects enzymes and hydration rates as well.
Degrees of Mixing
Looking back to the early history of bread baking, all of the mixing was done by
hand. Bread baking was a labor-intensive job. Hand kneading left the dough with
very little gluten development and was a laborious task. The bread would undergo
a long first fermentation, sometimes as long as five hours, with several folds to
develop the strength of the bread. This time-consuming process produced
excellent-tasting breads. As mechanical mixers were introduced, the process was
sped up, but this decreased the quality of the bread. As the customer’s
appreciation for artisanal breads has increased, the pastry chef has employed new
techniques to meet this need.
There is no right or wrong way to mix a dough, and each method will have a dough
that corresponds to it. The times given in the following sections are estimates and
may need some adjustment, depending on the type of mixer used or dough
hydration.
Short Mix
In an effort to get back to the quality produced by a hand-mixed bread while still
using mechanical mixers, the short mix was created. Doughs produced using a
short mix are mixed on low speed for 5 minutes. The short mixing time doesn’t heat
up the dough and prevents oxidizing the dough, creating a cream-colored bread.
Short mix doughs require several folds during the longer fermentation to create
strength in the bread. The final product is artisan bread with an open crumb and
excellent flavor.
FIGURE 2.3 Short mix (l); improved mix (c); intense mix (r)
Intense Mix
In an effort to dramatically shorten production times, the intense mix was created.
Intense mix doughs are mixed for 5 minutes on low speed, then 5 to 10 minutes on
second speed. While fermentation times are shorter, the bread produced lacks
flavor and has a tight, uniform crumb. The color of these breads is white due to
overoxidizing the flour. Doughs made using the intense mix method have a first
fermentation time of 10 to 30 minutes. This short time does not allow for the
production of organic acids. The overdeveloped gluten allows these doughs to trap
a large amount of air, producing a larger loaf.
Improved Mix
The improved mix is the best of both worlds—the longer fermentation of the short
mix with the proper gluten development of the intense mix. In this method, the
dough is mixed for 5 minutes on first speed and 2 minutes on second speed. The
final bread has an open crumb with slightly more volume than short mix, and the
flour is somewhat more oxidized due to the longer mixing time.
Note: All mixing times are dependent on the mixer being used. Adjustments may
need to be made to time or speed.
FIGURE 2.4 Proper gluten window
FIGURE 2.5 Underdeveloped dough
Gluten Development
The main goal of mixing bread dough is to develop gluten. Several factors
contribute to gluten development. When water is combined with flour and mixed,
the gluten is activated. Think of gluten as a bowl of spaghetti, only this spaghetti
has small hooks on the end. As the dough is worked in the mixer, the gluten is
aligned and the ends connect to the gluten next to it. This creates the network
inside the bread that gives the bread the ability to retain gas and structure to
maintain shape after baking.
When testing gluten development of dough, a simple visual examination of the
dough is made. A piece of dough is removed from the mixer and stretched by
hand. This is known as a window pane test. The dough is stretched to a thin
membrane—light will easily pass through the “window.” If the dough tears during
the test, additional mixing is required.
Bread Production Stages

14 Steps
There are 14 steps involved in producing yeast breads. The final product will
determine how many steps are used. In some products, there may be less. Some
recipes may include several folds, while others may remove this step entirely.
Fermentation times may be long and span several hours; others may be a short
15-minute rest. Be sure to follow the procedures specified in the recipe, as each
step will impact the following step, and ultimately the final product.
Selecting the Right Ingredients

Bread is often made from just a few ingredients: flour, liquid, salt, and yeast. Many
breads are created with these four ingredients; by changing the ratio or methods,
many variations can be created. Things to consider when selecting ingredients are
the type of flour, type of salt, water or milk, and type of yeast.
Scaling
Properly scaling ingredients is the most important step to any recipe: when
properly scaled, the recipe will yield consistent results and quantity of dough.
Recipes are balanced based on how ingredients interact within the recipe and what
the final desired results are. Changing one ingredient can result in a completely
different product. Pay particular attention to ingredients with the smallest quantities,
such as salt and yeast.
Mixing
While this might seem like one of the easier steps, mixing begins the process of
transforming the ingredients into a dough. Before combining the ingredients, the
DDT must be calculated. During the mixing phase, emphasis is placed on gluten
development. Gluten is the protein in flour that gives dough elasticity, extensibility,
and the ability to trap gas, and it provides structure when combined with liquid.
When mixing, the bread ingredients are equally dispersed throughout the dough,
dry ingredients hydrate, and oxygen is introduced to the dough.
Bulk Fermentation
After the dough has been mixed, it is rounded and allowed to ferment.
Fermentation is the process of yeast converting carbohydrates into carbon dioxide,
alcohol, and organic acids. Carbon dioxide provides the leavening for the bread
while the alcohol and organic acids contribute to the flavor. Organic acids add a
significant amount of flavor and aroma to the bread. Additionally, they strengthen
dough development and increase shelf life of the final product.
Folding
Folding is a relatively new term—this step was originally referred to as punching.
The dough was literally punched to release the built-up gas. While this method is
effective, folding provides more benefits. Doughs that ferment for longer than 90
minutes, are made with a weak flour, or are highly hydrated (75% or higher) benefit
from folding.
Dough Folding Process:
1. Place dough with the smooth rounded side down on a generously floured
worktable.
2. Take one-third of the dough from the close side and fold it over into the
center. Gently press out some of the gas; do not completely degas the
dough. Dust any excess flour from the dough.
3. Complete the same process for one-third of the far side of the dough.
4. Next, work from the left side and fold one-third in toward the center.
5. Finally, from the right side fold in one-third.

6. Carefully turn the folded dough over so the smooth surface is on top.
Note: If this process is completed multiple times on the dough, follow the
same procedure.
Folding the dough correctly will accomplish four things. It will first degas the dough.
The high quantity of carbon dioxide present in the dough can retard fermentation.
The second benefit is redistributing the yeast throughout the dough, ensuring equal
fermentation. The third benefit is temperature equalization. The center of the dough
will retain heat while the outside cools; folding makes sure the dough is a
consistent temperature. A fourth benefit is development of gluten. The folding
process continues aligning the gluten strands and strengthens the dough.
FIGURE 2.6a–f The folding process
Dividing
To divide the dough, place the dough onto a lightly dusted worktable. At this point,
avoid folding or overworking the dough; the dough is rested. Gently flatten the
dough, but do not completely degas it. With a metal bench scraper, cut the dough
into strips, then place a piece of the dough on a scale. If it is too light, add
additional dough; if too heavy, remove some of the dough. After this first piece of
dough is scaled to the correct weight, the size can be used to judge the next piece.
With some practice, scaling dough can be done quickly and accurately by eye, and
then verified on the scale without needing to make adjustments.
Dividing it quickly will prevent the dough from drying out. If there is a large quantity
of dough to be divided, cover the dough with plastic. Dividing is an important step
because it determines the size of the final loaf. Consistent scaling will produce
breads that proof and bake at the same rate.
Preshaping
The dough is now ready for preshaping. Preshaping is the process of taking the
randomly shaped pieces of divided dough and forming them into consistent
shapes. This step is important in preparing the dough for final shaping. The final
shape of the loaf can change the preshaping form—almost any shape can be
made from simply rounding the dough. However, longer shapes like a baguette can
benefit from an oblong preshaping. Regardless of the shape selected, it is
important to keep the dough as even as possible; this will facilitate final shaping.
Intermediate Fermentation
Intermediate fermentation is often referred to as bench proofing. This step is a
short fermentation that allows the gluten in the dough to relax after preshaping.
Stiffer doughs will require a longer rest, while slack doughs could be as short as 15
minutes. After the preshaping is completed, the dough is placed on a dusted
bench, sheet pan, or board and covered to prevent drying.
Final Shaping
After the dough has relaxed enough to be shaped, we move onto the next step. In
this step, the dough is shaped into the final design, a boule, baguette, loaf pan,
roll—there are countless shapes for breads. After shaping, the dough is transferred
into bannetons, baker’s couche, metal pan, or parchment-lined sheet pan.
Bâtard and Baguette Shaping
FIGURE 2.7 Degassing dough
FIGURE 2.8 Beginning to roll the dough for bâtard and baguette
FIGURE 2.9 Shaping a straight bâtard
FIGURE 2.10 Continue rolling the bâtard thinner to form the baguette
FIGURE 2.11 Final step: tightening the dough on a football bâtard
FIGURE 2.12 Starting the “v” shape for a football-shaped bâtard

Boule
FIGURE 2.13 Shaping a boule: tightening the degassed dough into a round
FIGURE 2.14 Shaping a boule: final process using hands to tighten the
dough
Proofing
Proofing is the final fermentation of the dough. After shaping the dough, it is
allowed rise. Most pastry shops use proof boxes to facilitate the fermentation.
Proof boxes can be adjusted to provide the ideal temperature and humidity for
fermentation while preventing a skin from forming on the dough. If a proof box is
not available, place the covered dough in a warm area and allow the dough to
ferment. A proof box will shorten the amount of time required for the bread to rise,
but the same results can be achieved by allowing the dough to rise at room
temperature.
Scoring
Before placing the dough in the oven, score it with a razor blade or lame. While
scoring does add a decorative element to bread, it also serves other functions.
Scoring allows the bread to expand and reach its maximum fullness. The scoring
creates a weakness in the structure of the bread, this allows the pastry chef to
control where and how the dough will expand.
Baking
Once the bread has fully proofed, it is ready to load into the oven. This can be
done with a peel, a mechanical loader, or by placing the sheet pans in the oven.
Use care when transferring dough from bannetons and couches to prevent
deflating the dough. Evenly space the dough on the peel. The dough will not be
moved again prior to placing in the oven. Properly spaced dough will bake evenly
and form an evenly browned and crispy crust.
When baking bread, a steam-injected oven can help develop a rich color and crisp
crust. Most breads benefit from steam, with the exception of breads that receive an
egg wash prior to baking. Steaming bread that has been washed would remove the
wash from the bread. Steam causes the starch on the crust of the bread to
transform into sugars. This contributes not only to the color of the bread but also to
the flavor.
Shortly after the bread is placed in the oven, the dough begins to heat up. The
increased heat causes the fermentation process to speed up, increasing the
production of carbon dioxide. Moisture in the dough begins to heat and expand.
This initial expanding of the bread is referred to as oven spring. The steam adds to
the bread’s ability to rise, and the additional moisture in the oven prevents the crust
from drying and setting. As the crust begins to gain color, the steam has served its
purpose and the vents on the oven can be opened. When steaming bread, be
careful to not oversteam it; too much moisture in the oven prevents crust formation,
leading to a loaf of bread that will collapse.
As the baking process continues, dough temperature reaches 140°F (60°C) and
the yeast begins to die. Starches begin to swell and gelatinize as the temperature
reaches 140 to 158°F (60 to 70°C). The gelatinization of starches is the first sign
the crumb of the bread is starting to set. The gluten protein begins to coagulate
when the internal temperature reaches 158 to 176°F (70 to 80°C). At 194°F (90°C),
starch gelatinization and protein coagulation is completed and internal baking is
done. The bread remains in the oven until the proper crust color has been
achieved.
Cooling
Once the bread has completed baking, carefully remove it from the oven using a
peel or sheet pan. Baked bread should be placed on cooling racks to allow
moisture to evaporate. Leaving the bread on a sheet pan or loaf pan will prevent
the steam from escaping and create a soggy crust. Bread must cool completely to
ensure that the proper texture and flavor have been developed.
Storing
Bread must be completely cooled before considering storage, wrapping a warm
loaf of bread will cause condensation inside the wrap and make the loaf soggy.
Using bread the same day it is baked does not require wrapping. The best wrapper
for breads is paper, which allows the bread to breath and maintains the crust.
While storing bread for long periods of time, it is necessary to wrap the bread in
plastic and place in the freezer. Refrigeration is strongly discouraged. While
refrigeration will prevent molding, the bread stales faster at refrigeration
temperature. Starch retrogradation is the staling of baked goods. As baked goods
age, they continue to develop structure, and some of the water is squeezed out of
the starch and evaporates.
Troubleshooting for Breads
Issue Cause
Dough splits on the side 1. Formula contained too much yeast; reduce
when baked. yeast.
2. Dough was not proofed long enough. Give
dough a longer proof.
3. Dough needed to expand more during
baking. Score dough properly.
When bread cools, crust The dough needed additional gluten

cracks and looks slightly development. Add a fold or two during
collapsed. fermentation.
When sliced, bread has a The bread was baked too long at too low a
thick crust. temperature. Reduce the amount of time the
bread is baked.
Bread does not rise. 1. Ingredients scaled improperly; check formula

for accuracy.
2. The incorrect yeast was used; check type of
yeast.
3. The yeast is expired; check expiration date of
yeast.
Recipes
Baguette Pâte Fermentée
Yield: 1 lb 3 oz (539 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 lb 3 oz (539 g)
Yield description: 1 at 1 lb 3 oz (539 g)
Ingredients U.S. Metric %

Bread Flour 10.7 oz 312 g 100
Water 8 oz 218 g 70
Malt 0.05 oz 1.6 g 0.5
Instant Yeast 0.05 oz 1.6 g 0.5
Salt 0.2 oz 6.25 g 2
Procedure
1. Mix for 6 minutes on speed 2.
2. Ferment for 3 hours at room temperature; then place in refrigerator for 12
hours.
Baguette Final Dough

Yield: 4 lb 15 oz (2271 g)
Portions: 7 loaves
Portion size: 11.25 oz (324 g)
Yield description: 7 loaves at 11.25 oz (324 g)
Bread Flour 2 lb 3 oz 1000 g 100
Pâte Fermentée, cut into pieces 1 lb 3 oz 539 g 54
Water 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g 70
Malt 0.17 oz 5g 0.5
Instant Yeast 0.13 oz 4g 0.4
Salt 0.81 oz 23 g 2.3
Note: After mixing the final dough, remove 1 lb 3 oz (539 g) to replace the pâte fermentée
used in the production of the baguette final dough. Ferment the dough covered for 3 hours
at room temperature; then store in the refrigerator. The pâte fermentée can be made and
stored for 3 days under refrigeration. Using this method, the pâte fermentée will continue
developing flavor with each batch of baguette dough made. When using this method, the
final dough will produce five baguettes.
Procedure
1. Use improved mix, DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes; fold once after 45 minutes.
3. Scale loaves at 11.25 oz (324 g).
4. Preshape and rest 30 minutes.
5. Final shape into a baguette procedure on page 40.

6. Proof for 90 minutes at 88°F (31°C).
7. Score dough with five to six cuts.
8. Bake at 450°F (232°C) with 10 seconds steam for 25 to 30 minutes.
Kalamata Thyme
Yield: 4 lb 9.2 oz (2086 g)
Portions: 4 loaves
Yield description: 4 loaves at 1 lb 2 oz (520 g)
Water 1 lb 11.5 oz 780 g 65
Kalamata Olives, chopped and dried 2.1 oz 60 g 5
Thyme, fresh, picked 0.17 oz 4.8 g 0.4
Instant Yeast 0.63 oz 18 g 1.5
Salt 0.84 oz 24 g 2
Procedure
1. Use improved mix; add kalamata olives and thyme at the end of mixing.
Continue mixing until combined. DDT 78°F (25°C).
3. Scale loaves at 1 lb 2 oz (520 g).
5. Final shape into a boule procedure on page 40.
7. Score with three cuts across the dough.
Focaccia
Yield: 4 lbs 8 oz (2090 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 full sheet pan
Yield description: 1 full sheet pan at 4 lbs 8 oz (2090 g)

Water 1 lb 7.75 oz 673 g 57.9
Sugar 2 oz 57 g 4.9
Olive Oil 0.8 oz 22.5 g 1.9
Salt 1.2 oz 34 g 2.9
Sun-Dried Tomatoes, sliced 3.5 oz 100 g 8.6
Rosemary, fresh, chopped 0.3 oz 8g 0.7
Procedure
1. Soak sun-dried tomatoes in water from recipe for 1 hour.
2. Use intense mix.
3. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes.
4. Brush a sheet pan with olive oil, roll dough to fit sheet pan.
5. Proof for 1 hour at 88°F (31°C).
6. Bake 450°F (230C), 3 seconds steam for 5 minutes.
7. Reduce oven temperature to 420°F (215°C) for 15 to 20 minutes.
8. Remove from oven and brush with olive oil.
FIGURE 2.15 Baguette, Kalamata Thyme, and Focaccia
Beer Bread Poolish

Yield: 1 lb 3.2 oz (544.2 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 lb 3.2 oz (544.2 g)
Yield description: 1 at 1 lb 3.2 oz (544.2 g)
Water 9.6 oz 272 g 100
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients with a dough hook and mix for 8 minutes on second
speed.
2. Ferment at room temperature, 72°F (22°C), for 12 hours.
Beer Bread Final Dough

Portions: 4 loaves
Portion size: 1 lb 0.75 oz (476 g)
Yield description: 4 loaves at 1 lb 0.75 oz (476 g)
Bread Flour 1 lb 454 g 71.4
Whole Wheat Flour 5 oz 142 g 22.3
Dark Rye Flour 1.4 oz 40 g 6.3
Beer Bread Poolish 1 lb 3.2 oz 544 g 85.5
Beer 10.9 oz 310 g 48.7
Water 1.3 oz 37 g 5.8
Salt 0.65 oz 18.5 g 2.9
Bacon, sliced ⅛ in. and cooked until crispy 4 oz 113 g 17.8
Onion, brunoise 5 oz 141 g 22.2
Sauerkraut, rinsed and drained 3.5 oz 100 g 5.1
Caraway Seeds, toasted 0.08 oz 2.3 g 0.4
Procedure
1. Use improved mix DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes, fold once after 45 minutes.
3. Scale loaves at 1 lb 0.75 oz (476 g).
5. Final shape into a boule procedure, page 40.
6. Brush dough with beer bread topping and dust heavily with rye flour.
7. Proof for 3 hours at 88°F (31°C).
8. Bake at 450°F (232°C) with 10 seconds steam for 10 minutes.
Beer Bread Topping

Yield: 11.29 oz (318.2 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 11.29 oz (318.2 g)
Yield description: 1 at 11.29 oz (318.2 g)

Rye Flour 3.9 oz 110 g 100
Beer 7.1 oz 200 g 181.8
Salt 0.21 oz 6g 5.5
Instant Yeast 0.08 oz 2.2 g 2
Note: Any additional Beer Bread Topping can be reserved in the refrigerator for 3 days.
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients.
2. Reserve for beer bread.
Ciabatta Biga
Yield: 12.07 oz (341 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 at 12.07 oz (341 g)
Water 5.4 oz 153 g 82
Yeast 0.07 oz 2g 1.1
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients with a dough hook and mix for 8 minutes on second
speed.
2. Ferment at room temperature, 72°F (22°C), for 12 hours.
3. Store in refrigerator for up to 3 days.
Ciabatta Final Dough

Yield: 4 lb 6.oz (1986 g)
Portions: 4 loaves
Bread Flour 1 lb 15.7 oz 900 g 100
Ciabatta Biga 12.07 oz 341 g 38
Water 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g 77.8
Olive Oil 0.35 oz 10 g 1.1
Salt 0.9 oz 25 g 2.8
Procedure
1. Use improved mix, double hydration, DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 2 hours; fold once every 30 minutes.
3. Turn dough onto heavily floured table.
4. Fold in half and even out dough.
5. Cut into four equal pieces; dust cut ends in flour.
6. Place into floured couche.
FIGURE 2.16 Multigrain Bread and Ciabatta
Multigrain Soaker
Portions: 1
Whole Wheat Flour 4.1 oz 116 g 100
Multigrain Mix 12.3 oz 348 g 300
Buttermilk 12.3 oz 348 g 300
Salt 0.3 oz 8g 7
Note: Cornmeal, flax seed, oats, sunflower seeds, or other grains can be used in place of
multigrain mix.
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients with a paddle.
2. Store at room temperature 72°F (22°C) for 12 hours.
Multigrain Biga
Portions: 1
Water 12.4 oz 350 g 75
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients with dough hook.
2. Mix for 5 minutes on second speed.
3. Ferment for 1 hour at 72°F (22°C).
4. Refrigerate for 12 hours before use.
Multigrain Final Dough

Yield: 4 lb 5.7 oz (1973 g)
Portions: 4

Multigrain Biga 1 lb 13 oz 820 g 513
Multigrain Soaker 1 lb 13 oz 820 g 513
Sugar 4.2 oz 118 g 74
Butter 1.1 oz 30 g 19
Instant Yeast 0.5 oz 14.5 g 9
Salt 0.37 oz 10.5 g 6.5
Procedure
1. Cut up soaker and biga, add to remaining ingredients.
2. Mix for 8 minutes on second speed, DDT 78°F (25°C).
6. Final shape into batard.
7. Proof for 1 hour 15 minutes at 88°F (31°C).
9. Reduce oven temperature to 420°F (215°C) for 15 to 20 additional minutes.
Pretzel Bread Poolish

Yield: 7.8 oz (220 g)
Portions: 1
Bread Flour 3.89 oz 109.5 g 100
Water 3.89 oz 109.5 g 100
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients thoroughly.
2. Ferment for 12 hours at 72°F (22°C).
Pretzel Bread Final Dough

Yield: 4 lb 7.8 oz (2036 g)
Portions: 35
Portion size: 2 oz (56.7g) rolls
Yield description: 36 rolls at 2 oz (56.7g) rolls
Water 11.3 oz 319 g 29
Milk, scalded 11.3 oz 319 g 29
Pretzel Bread Poolish 7.8 oz 220 g 20
Butter 1.1 oz 32 g 2.9
Brown Sugar 0.5 oz 15.5 g 1.4
Instant Yeast .27 oz 7.7 g 0.7
Salt .8 oz 23.1 g 2.1
Pretzel Salt As Needed As Needed
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients with poolish, improved mix, DDT 78°F (25°C).
3. Divide the dough into 2 oz (56.7 g) round rolls.
4. Place rolls on a flour-dusted couche and proof for 30 minutes at 88°F (31°C).
5. At this point, the rolls can be dipped in the lye solution or placed in the poaching
liquid. Follow the procedure listed next.
Lye Solution
Ingredients U.S. Metric
Water, room temperature 4 lbs 1800 g
Lye, food-grade 2 oz 57 g
Note: Dipping the dough in a lye solution gives the bread the characteristic soft dark crust
and flavor. Gloves and safety glasses are recommended when using lye to prevent burns to
skin and eyes.
Procedure
1. Add lye to water; stir to combine.
2. Place the roll in the lye solution for 20 seconds.

3. Drain and place on a silpain or silpat.
4. Sprinkle with pretzel salt and score.
5. Bake at 375°F (190°C) for 15 to 18 minutes.
Poaching Liquid
Water 8 lb 3600 g
Baking Soda 4 oz 115 g
Sugar 2 oz 56.7 g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients and heat to 180°F (82°C).
2. Poach rolls for 1 minute, drain, and place on silpain or silpat.
3. Brush with egg whites, add pretzel salt, and score.
Cottage Cheese Dill

Yield: 4 lb 12.8 oz (2204 g)
Portions: 38
Portion size: 2 oz (56.7g)
Yield description: 38 rolls at 2 oz (56.7g)
Cottage Cheese 1 lb 6.1 oz 627 g 57
Milk 7.4 oz 210 g 19
Sugar 2.1 oz 60 g 5.4
Fresh Dill, chopped 0.4 oz 11 g 1
Whole Egg 2.7 oz 77 g 7
Instant Yeast 0.7 20 g 1.8
Salt 0.75 22 g 2
Kosher Salt As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Use intense mix, DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 1 hour.
3. Scale rolls at 2 oz (56.7 g).
5. Final shape into knots.
7. Egg wash (p. XXX) and sprinkle with kosher salt.
FIGURE 2.17 Honey Wheat, Pretzel, and Cottage Cheese Dill
Honey Wheat
Yield: 3 lb 14.4 oz (1800 g)
Portions: 31
Portion size: 2 oz (56.7 g)
Yield description: 31 rolls at 2 oz (56.7 g) rolls
Bread Flour 1 lb 5.5 oz 610 g 61.3
Whole Wheat Flour 13.5 oz 385 g 38.7
Water 1 lb 3 oz 538 g 54.1
Honey 4.75 oz 135 g 13.6
Sugar 1.2 oz 34 g 3.4
Butter 1.2 oz 34 g 3.4
Salt 0.9 oz 26 g 2.6
Procedure
1. Use intense mix.
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes.
3. Scale at 2 oz (56.7 g) and shape into rolls.
4. Proof for 1 hour at 88°F (31°C).
5. Egg wash (see below) and bake at 350°F (175°C).
Egg Wash
Yield: 10.6 oz (300 g)
Portions: 1
Whole Eggs 7.1 oz 200 g
Egg Yolks 3.5 oz 100 g
Salt Pinch Pinch
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients and whisk.
2. Strain through a chinois.
Sour Starter
Yield: 4 lb (916 g)
Portions: 1

Day 1
White Rye Flour 3 oz 85 g 50
Bread Flour 3 oz 85 g 50
Honey 0.3 oz 8.5 g 10
Water 3 oz 85 g 50
Days 2–4 Feed
Sour from previous feed 5 oz 142 g 100
Water 3 oz 85 g 60
Day 5 Feed
Sour from previous feed 4 oz 113.4 g 11.5
Bread Flour 2 lb 908 g 100
Whole Wheat Flour 4 oz 113.4 g 11.5
Water 1 lb 8 oz 680 g 69.4
Note: When starting the sour, a portion is discarded during days 2–5. Not discarding this
portion would result in a very large amount of waste at the start of the fifth day. The
remaining mature starter at the end of the day will not produce the desired results and
should be discarded, leaving only enough to be fed for the following day. This will help to
maintain a healthy and balanced environment for the wild yeast to naturally ferment.
Working with a sour requires planning. Schedule the breads for production the following day
and scale the day 5 feed to accommodate this.
Procedure Day 1
1. Combine ingredients and mix to a stiff dough consistency.
2. Store uncovered at room temperature, 72°F (22°C), for 24 hours.
Procedure Days 2–4

1. Scale 5 oz (142 g) of dough from previous day; discard remaining dough.
2. Combine ingredients and mix by hand.
3. Store covered at room temperature, 72°F (22°C), for 24 hours.
4. Repeat this process for days 2, 3, and 4.
Procedure Day 5
1. Scale 4 oz (113.4 g) of dough from previous day, discard remaining dough.
2. Combine ingredients and mix at second speed for 6 minutes.
3. Store covered at room temperature, 72°F (22°C), for 12 hours.

4. Refrigerate for up to 2 days, then repeat day 5 procedure.
Sour Dough
Yield: 4 lb 11 oz (2124 g)
Portions: 4
Water 1 lb 8.5 oz 695 g 65
Sour Starter (see this page) 11.5 oz 326 g 31.4
Salt 1 oz 28.3 g 2.7
Procedure
5. Final shape into a boule.
7. Score with three deep cuts.
Semolina
Yield: 4 lb 12 oz (2145 g)
Portions: 3
Semolina 1 lb 1.6 oz 472 g 45
Sour Starter (p. 50) 12.3 oz 350 g 33
Water 1 lb 8 oz 685 g 65

Olive Oil 0.9 oz 24 g 2.3
Sugar 0.37 oz 10.5 g 1
Salt 0.93 oz 26.3 g 2.5
Sesame Seeds As needed As needed
Procedure
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes; fold after 45 minutes.
5. Final shape and roll in sesame seeds; place into greased loaf pan.
6. Proof for 2 hours and 15 minutes at 88°F (31°C).
Chocolate Cherry Bread

Yield: 4 lb 12 oz (2160 g)
Portions: 4
Cocoa Powder 1.6 oz 45 g 5
Water 1 lb 3.4 oz 550 g 61.1
Dark Chocolate 55%, melted 2.1 oz 60 g 6.7
Salt 0.9 oz 25 g 2.8
Chocolate Chips 5.4 oz 155 g 17.2
Dried Cherries, rinsed in warm water 5.4 oz 155 g 17.2
Procedure
1. Combine first six ingredients and mix for 6 minutes at first speed.
2. Add Chocolate Chips and Dried Cherries; mix for 2 minutes second speed,
DDT 78°F (25°C).
6. Final shape into a bâtard.
7. Proof for 2 hours and 15 minutes at 88°F (31°C).
8. Score with three cuts.
FIGURE 2.18 Semolina and Chocolate Cherry Bread
Potato Onion Bread

Yield: 4 lb 6.2 oz (1995 g)
Portions: 4
Bread Flour 1 lb 5.6 oz 615 g 78.3
Whole Wheat Flour 6 oz 170 g 21.7
Sour Starter (p. 50) 12.7 oz 360 g 45.9
Water 1 lb 2.7 oz 530 g 67.5

Yukon Gold Potato, small dice, roasted 9 oz 255 g 32.5
Yellow Onion, ⅛ in. sliced, caramelized 10.6 oz 300 g 38.2
Salt 0.9 oz 26.4 g 3.4
Black Pepper, ground 0.2 oz 6g 0.7
Note: Potatoes and onions are cooked after scaling.
Procedure
1. Use improved mix, adding potatoes and onions at the end of mixing. Continue
mixing until incorporated DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes; fold after 45 minutes.
5. Final shape into a boule.
7. Score in an X.
Pizza Dough
Yield: 4 lb 8.4 oz (2054 g)
Portions: 8
Portion size: 9 oz (255 g)
Yield description: 8 pieces at 9 oz (255 g)
00 Flour 2 lb 9.6 oz 1180 g 100
Salt 1.6 oz 47 g 4
Procedure
1. Combine half of the 00 Flour with the remaining ingredients.
2. Mix for 10 minutes on speed 2.
3. Add remaining flour and mix for 5 additional minutes.
4. Rest dough for 45 minutes.
5. Divide into 9 oz (255 g) pieces and round.

6. Retard for 12 hours in refrigerator.
7. Roll dough into 10-in. (25-cm) circles.
8. Top and bake at 500°F (260°C).
Raisin Walnut Sour

Yield: 4 lb 6.9 oz (2019 g)
Portions: 4
Whole Wheat Flour 12.7 oz 360 g 45
Raisins, rinsed 6.3 oz 184 g 23
Walnuts, toasted and chopped 4.5 oz 128 g 16
Salt 1.2 oz 35 g 4.4
Procedure
1. Use improved mix; add raisins and walnuts at the end of mixing. Continue
mixing until incorporated. DDT 78°F (25°C).
2. Allow bulk fermentation 90 minutes, fold once after 45 minutes.
5. Final shape into a bâtard.
6. Proof for 2½ hours at 88°F (31°C).
7. Score with three deep cuts.
Rye Sour Starter

Yield: 3 lb 14 oz (1820 g)
Portions: 1
Dark Rye Flour 8.8 oz 250 g 25
Water 1 lb 6.6 oz 700 g 70
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a mixer with a paddle to form a paste.
2. Store at room temperature 72°F (22°C) for 12 hours.
Sour Rye
Portions: 4
High-Gluten Flour 8.8 oz 250 g 25
Dark Rye Flour 8.8 oz 250 g 25
Caraway Seeds, toasted and cooled 0.5 oz 15 g 1.5
Rye Sour Starter 10.5 oz 300 g 30
Salt 1 oz 30 g 3
Procedure
2. Allow bulk fermentation 2 hours; fold every 30 minutes.
5. Final shape into a batard.
6. Proof for 2½ hours at 88°F (31°C).
FIGURE 2.19 Raisin Walnut Sour Bread and Sour Rye
Key Terms
Pericarp
Endosperm
Wheat germ
Soaker
Baker’s percentage
Desired dough temperature (DDT)
Total temperature factor
Preferments
Straight mixing method
Sponge mixing method
Brioche mixing method
Double hydration
Minimal mixing
Autolyse
Short mix
Intense mix
Improved mix
Gluten

1. Discuss the differences between short mix, intense mix, and improved mix.
2. Discuss how preferments benefit breads.
3. When is steam used, and how does it affect the crust of bread?
4. Why is bread scored?
Viennoiserie Page 1 of 41
CHAPTER 3
Viennoiserie
Croissants, pain au chocolate, and brioche evoke memories of France—sitting in a

small café with a freshly baked, flaky croissant and a cup of coffee. While the
French are often credited with Viennoiserie, it originates in Austria. It was Marie
Antoinette who brought the croissant to France. The French built on the popularity
of the Viennoiserie, continuing to make and improve the techniques—much like
pastry chefs do with all products in their kitchen.
http://e.pub/9yb4k0unzkaqbi1jq1mw.vbk/OPS/c03.xhtml 7/10/2020
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Demonstrate the single and book-fold methods for laminating dough.
2. Identify the ingredients used in Viennoiserie and their function.
3. Prepare a variety of laminated and enriched products.
4. Prepare puff pastry.
5. Demonstrate the technique for mixing and laminating doughs.
Introduction to Viennoiserie
Flaky, buttery, and rich are the words that best describe Viennoiserie. These yeast-
raised products include more sugars, fats, milk, and eggs when compared to the
lean doughs from Chapter 2. Viennoiserie can be broken down into two main
groups: laminated and enriched doughs. Lamination is the process of layering
dough and fat to produce a flaky pastry, such as those used for croissants and
Danishes. An enriched dough incorporates additional fats or sugars during the
mixing process. Examples include brioche, kugelhopf, and sweet roll dough.
Ingredients and Function

Liquid
Viennoiserie relies on water, milk, and eggs to hydrate the flour. Eggs will be
addressed in the following section, as they provide more than just liquid to the
recipe. Liquids are used to incorporate all ingredients to form a dough. If used
alone, water will create a crispy crust; however, most Viennoiserie incorporates
both water and milk. Milk provides fat, sugar, protein and vitamins to the bread.
The small percentage of fat in milk helps to make the crumb more tender and
produce a soft crust. The additional sugar assists in the browning of the crust when
baking. Milk contains enzymes that can weaken the bond of the gluten. Denaturing
these enzymes is accomplished by scalding the milk. Sugar contributes to the
browning of the dough, and the fat makes the baked bread soft.
When scalding milk, scale slightly more than needed and heat until a skin forms on
the top of the milk or to a temperature of 190°F (88°C). During processing,
pasteurized milk is heated to 161°F (72°C), but this is not sufficient to completely
destroy all of the enzymes, which weaken gluten. After scalding the milk, cover
tightly with plastic wrap and cool quickly on an ice bath; this helps to reduce any
possible evaporation. Scale the milk after it has cooled to 80°F (17°C).
To save time and avoid the need of scalding the milk, powdered milk can be used.
Powdered milk is available as whole milk powder and milk solids nonfat (MSNF).
Powdered milk products are heated to 200°F (94°C), which destroys the gluten-
weakening enzymes. MSNF has an increased shelf life due to defatting, and is
easily available through most distributors.
To convert a recipe from whole milk to MSNF, use the following procedure.
In this example, the recipe calls for 32 oz of whole milk.
To calculate the amount of MSNF needed, multiply the amount of milk needed
by 0.10.
32 oz × 0.10 = Amount of MSNF
3.2 oz = Amount of MSNF
In the next step, the amount of MSNF is subtracted from the amount of whole milk.
This will yield the amount of water needed.
Whole milk − MSNF = Weight of water
32 oz − 3.2 oz = Weight of water
28.8 oz = Weight of water
Thus, to convert 32 oz whole milk in a recipe using MSNF, the recipe would need
28.8 oz of water and 3.2 oz of MSNF.
Eggs
Eggs are 76% water. Like milk and water, eggs also hydrate the flour. Brioche and
Danish use eggs to give the dough flavor and a rich yellow color. Fats present in
the yolk create a smooth and tender dough. At the same time, the yolk softens the
crust of the bread and facilitates browning. During the baking process, the egg
proteins coagulate, adding structure and strengthening the bread.
Flour
Viennoiserie products differ from yeast breads described in Chapter 2. Many of
these doughs are mixed, laminated, shaped, and fermented. All of these steps
contribute to the development of gluten. In some formulas, high-gluten flour is used
to combat the shortening effects of fats. Some formulas may contain a blend of
stronger flours (high-gluten and bread) and weaker flours (cake and pastry) to
create a more tender dough. Flours vary a great deal, and adjustments to formulas
may need to be made. The goal is to use the correct flour or blend of flours to
support the extra ingredients in the dough.
Sugar
Sugar adds sweetness to the bread, provides food for the yeast, controls gluten
development, and retains moisture. The amount of sugar in a formula can range
from 12% to 30%. Additional sugar also creates a denser dough with a fine crumb.
Granulated sugar is most frequently used in Viennoiserie formulas. However,
honey, maple syrup, and even brown sugar can be used to add additional flavor.
Since products that are higher in sugar will brown more easily than the breads
produced in Chapter 2, be sure to adjust oven temperatures.
Yeast
The same guidelines discussed in Chapter 2 are used in production of
Viennoiserie. Yeast provides flavor and leavening for the breads. Osmotolerant
yeast is preferred for Viennoiserie because many of these products contain more
than 10% of sugar and/or fat. Using osmotolerant yeast will provide more
consistent results and increased volume in the final product. If osmotolerant yeast
is not available, increase the amount of yeast in the recipe by up to 30%.
Salt
The flavor of salt helps to balance the sweetness often found in Viennoiserie. Salt
also controls fermentation, and can range from 1% to 2.3%. Higher percentages of
salt in the dough will retard fermentation.
Fat
Viennoiserie is identified by the yellow color of the doughs, soft rich dough, and
flaky laminated doughs. This is done with the use of eggs and fat. The quality of
the fat that goes into the dough will ultimately change the color and flavor of the
dough. Butter is the preferred fat because it provides the best flavor, color, and
mouth feel to the dough. In regards to laminated dough, butter can be very hard
when cold and extremely soft at room temperature. This increases the difficulty
when laminating the dough. Shortening is more workable at refrigerator
temperature and at room temperature. It maintains a plastic consistency that is
easy to roll in laminated dough, but it provides no flavor. Margarine has more
yellow color than butter, and has some of the characteristics of shortenings,
including ease of rolling. Margarine contains salt, so adjustments to the recipe
need to be made when changing to margarine.
Most Viennoiserie products have all the fat added during the mixing process, while
croissants and Danish have a majority of the fat added during the lamination
process. Laminated doughs have a small amount of fat included in the dough to
increase flexibility and extensibility. The amount of fat typically ranges from 5% for
laminated dough, up to 70% for an enriched dough. Laminated doughs commonly
have an additional 25% of butter added for the roll-in.
Croissant and Danish dough have a small percentage of fat, which can be added
during the mixing process without any adverse effects. Enriched doughs contain
much more fat. Once the percentage starts to reach 10% fat, it is added at the end
of mixing, just as the dough reaches full development. Do not include the fat in the
beginning of the mix because it will dramatically increase the amount of mixing
time. During this extended mixing time (sometimes as much as double the time),
the dough may become overoxidized and too warm. As a result, fermentation may
occur too quickly. When mixing doughs with a fat percentage above 10%, follow
the brioche method on pages 34–35 in Chapter 2.
Laminated Doughs
Laminated doughs have fat incorporated through a series of folding and turns to
create thin layers of fat and dough. Croissant and Danish are two varieties of
yeasted doughs. Croissants are made from a lean dough, low in fat and sugar, with
a butter roll-in. Danish are made with a rich dough, higher in fat and sugar, with a
butter roll-in. Danish doughs might also include spices. There are nine key steps to
producing properly laminated dough: mixing, roll-in fat preparation, enclosing the
fat, rolling and folding, shaping, proofing, filling and egg washing, baking, and
finishing and storage.
Mixing the Dough

The mixing of the dough is one of the most important of the nine steps. When
making laminated dough, the gluten does not need to be fully developed. Gluten
development will continue during the rolling and folding process. A short mix is
sufficient to develop the dough. The dough should be mixed to the point that it is
not completely smooth and free of holes or tears. Refer to Figure 3.1. The dough
on the left is croissant dough mixed for 5 minutes: It is not as smooth as the
doughs prepared in Chapter 2. The dough on the right was mixed for 3 minutes:
the holes and tears are easily identifiable. This dough does not have enough
structure to hold the roll-in fat and will tear easily during rolling. The final product
will not rise as high due to lack of structure. By contrast, using dough that has been
fully developed, as discussed in Chapter 2, will result in tough final dough. This will
require additional resting time between folds.
FIGURE 3.1 Left: Properly mixed dough; Right: Undermixed Dough

After mixing the dough it is rested under refrigeration for a minimum of 1 hour, or
as long as 12 hours.
Roll-in Fat Preparation

The next step is shaping the butter into a slab in preparation of enclosing. To do
this, slice a pound of cold butter slightly thicker than ½ in. (15 mm). A pound of
butter will yield nine slices. Lay the butter slices out on a sheet of plastic wrap in
three rows, three slices across, with the slices touching. This will form a 3 × 3
square. Cover the butter slices with another piece of plastic wrap. Gently press the
butter with a rolling pin to maintain an even thickness of the butter.
The goal is to press the butter into one solid piece and begin to soften it. The final
thickness of butter will be ½ in. (15 mm) and measure 8 in.2 (21 cm2). Allow the
butter slab to continue softening at room temperature until the dough has finished
fermenting.
FIGURE 3.2 Left: Butter placed on plastic wrap; Right: Butter flattened into
slab
FIGURE 3.3 Left: Properly laminated croissant dough; Right: Improperly

laminated croissant dough
Enclosing the Fat

Enclosing the fat in the dough is as important as the first step of mixing the dough.
The consistency of the butter and dough must be the same. This step requires the
pastry chef to understand what happens when the butter and dough are combined.
The aim of lamination is to layer the fat evenly between the layers of dough.
Butter that is too cold will create lumps when added to the chilled dough. Rather
than roll with the dough, the butter will break up, not spreading evenly between the
layers. On the other hand, butter that is too warm will spread too easily, creating
uneven layers of fat and dough. Since the butter spreads easier than the dough,
this will cause the butter to push through the ends of the dough when rolling.
To check the consistency, feel both the butter and the dough. Separately, they
should feel the same. If the dough is stiffer than the butter, place the butter in the
cooler until it firms; this may take as little as 5 minutes. If the butter is too firm,
allow it remain at room temperature until the butter softens to the consistency of
the refrigerated dough. Since there can be range of temperatures for coolers and
room temperature, these times are approximate and may require some
adjustments to yield the optimal results. Be sure to check the consistency of dough
and fat before proceeding. This step is the same when enclosing butter using the
traditional or blunt cross method.
Traditional Method
When using the traditional method, roll the dough to 1.5 times the length of the
butter. The dimensions of the dough will be 9 × 13 in. (23 × 33 cm). Place the
butter slab on the left side of the dough, being sure to allow some dough to remain
exposed on the sides of the butter. The seam will ensure the dough closes and the
butter will remain inside while rolling. To enclose the butter, fold the dough on the
uncovered dough on the right side over the butter. This will reach the center of the
butter slab. Then fold the dough from the left over the center of the dough and
gently close the ends.
FIGURE 3.4 1. Place the butter on the dough.
FIGURE 3.5 2. Fold the right side over the butter.
FIGURE 3.6 3. Fold the left side over the center.

This method gives the dough more layers of lamination than the blunt cross. After
enclosing the butter there are five layers: two layers of butter and three layers of
dough.
Blunt Cross Method

The blunt cross method involves rolling the dough into a cross shape and placing
the butter into the center. Using this method the butter is fully enclosed in the
dough and less likely to escape from the sides during rolling.
When preparing to enclose the fat, roll the dough into a cross with rounded edges.
The dough in the center of the cross is slightly thicker and the arms are rolled so
the edges are thinned. It is important to roll the dough with the varying thickness to
ensure the butter has equal amounts of dough on each side. Measuring the blunt
cross through the center, the distance from the tips of the arms will be 18 in. (45
cm). The arms are then folded over into the center and the dough is pinched to
seam the pieces.
FIGURE 3.7 1. Place the butter on the dough.
FIGURE 3.8 2. Fold over the closest side.
FIGURE 3.9 3. Repeat, folding in the remaining sides.
Rolling and Folding

After enclosing the fat, the next step is to begin rolling and folding the dough. It is
important to decrease the thickness of the dough gradually to create even layers of
butter and dough. The dough is rolled to ¼ in. (6 mm) thick—be sure to brush any
remaining dusting flour from the top of the dough. The extra flour left on the dough
will not be absorbed by the dough. If too much flour is applied, it will be visible in
the lamination of the final dough; additionally, this flour will not taste good when
eaten. When it comes to folding, there are two options: single fold and book fold.
A single fold, or three-fold, is done by visually dividing the dough in thirds. The third
on the right side is folded over the center portion, and the piece on the left is then
brought over the center section. When using the three fold method, this process
will need to be completed a total of three times.
FIGURE 3.10 Single-fold procedure: 1. Already-rolled dough is marked with

dotted lines for thirds. 2. Fold the dough from the right side. 3. Fold the
dough from the left side.
To execute the book-fold procedure, or four-fold, fold the dough over from both the
right and left side so they touch. It is best to offset the point where the two sides
meet. Fold the right side in 75 percent and the left side 25 percent. This helps to
evenly distribute the layers of dough. The dough is then folded in half. Yeast-
leavened laminated doughs that use the book-fold procedure start with one single
fold, followed by a book fold. There are only two rolling and folding steps in this
process. This speeds up production but will result in less lamination. The types and
amount of folds are strictly based on personal preference. The following table
exams how many layers will be present in the final dough.
FIGURE 3.11 Book-fold procedure: 1. Already-rolled dough is marked on

right and left side of dough ¼. 2. Right side is folded over 25%. 3. Left side
is folded over 25%. 4. Dough is folded in half.
Layer Count for Laminated Dough Using Traditional Butter Lock in

Procedure
Type of Fold Lock in Layers 1st Fold 2nd Fold 3rd Fold
Single fold 5 15 45 135
1 single fold and 1 book fold 5 15 60
Layer Count for Laminated Dough Using Blunt Cross Procedure
Layer Count for Laminated Dough Using Blunt Cross Procedure
Single fold 3 9 27 81
1 single fold and 1 book fold 3 9 36
The dough will need to rest under refrigeration for a minimum of 20 minutes
between folds when using a mechanical sheeter, and 45 minutes for hand rolling.
This serves three purposes: it relaxes the gluten, retards fermentation, and
solidifies the fat. After relaxing the dough, the additional rolling and folding can be
done. When rolling the rested dough, be sure to turn 90 degrees, so that the gluten
is developed equally in all directions. Once the desired folds are in place, rest the
dough for 60 minutes in the refrigerator.
There are many steps in the production of laminated doughs. Following is a sample
schedule to assist in the manufacturing of the dough. As each procedure is
executed, enter the rest time on the sheet. This will help to make sure the correct
number of folds are completed and that the dough has had a sufficient rest period
before moving to the next step.
Schedule for Producing Croissant Dough
Step Dough Resting Time Start Time 7:00 AM
Mixing dough 60 minutes 8:00 AM
Butter lock-in and first fold 20 minutes
Second fold 20 minutes
Third fold 60 minutes
Final rolling 15 minutes in freezer
Cutting and shaping
Shaping
The dough is now ready for final rolling. Roll the dough in the same direction as the
previous roll until the desired width is reached. Then turn the dough and continue
rolling to a thickness of ⅛ in. (3 mm). When using a dough sheeter, roll the dough
through on the final thickness two times. At this point, the thickness of the dough
will determine the final size of the products. In the next step the dough is cut to the
desired size. Assuming the thickness of the dough is even, the cut and shaped
pastries will be the same size.
After rolling the gluten needs a short rest to relax, which prevents the dough from
shrinking after it is cut. Place the dough in the freezer for 15 to 20 minutes.
Completely freezing the dough is not necessary. In the freezer, the dough will relax
and the fat will harden, which will help to achieve a clean cut. If the dough is too
warm, the fat and dough will compress and stick together, and lamination will not
be visible on the edges of the dough.
While the dough is in the freezer, gather the tools needed for cutting and shaping.
Many shapes are easily achievable with a sharp knife and ruler. Even though the
dough is in the freezer, it is sheeted very thinly and will thaw quickly, so it is
important to be organized and move quickly. The ruler is critical in measuring the
dough and ensuring the pieces are the same size. Consistency in cutting and
shaping will provide consistent products that proof and bake at the same rate.
After shaping the dough, there are two options: The dough can continue moving on
the following steps or it can be retarded or frozen. If freezing a shaped product,
place it on parchment-lined sheet pans and wrap tightly. It is recommended to not
store the product in the freezer for longer than two weeks. When ready to use the
frozen product, space the dough out on a parchment-lined sheet pan. Allow the
items to thaw completely before placing in the proof box. This can also be done
overnight in the refrigerator. Then continue with the following steps.
1. Cut the dough.
2. Stretch the length.
3. Stretch the arms.
4. Roll the croissant.

FIGURE 3.12a–d Croissant-shaping procedure:
1. Cut the dough.
2. Fill with chocolate.
3. Roll the dough.

FIGURE 3.13a–c Pain Au Chocolate:
1. Cut the dough.
2. Fold and press the corners in the center.

FIGURE 3.14a–b Pocket fold:
1. Cut the dough.
2. Cut the “X”
3. Fold the corners.

FIGURE 3.15a–c Pinwheel fold:
1. Cut the strip.
2. Twist the dough.
3. Roll the dough out.
4. Wrap the dough.

FIGURE 3.16a–d Shaping snails:
1. Coat the dough with cinnamon sugar mixture.
2. Roll the dough.
3. Cut the dough.
4. Tuck the end of the dough under the roll.

FIGURE 3.17a–d Cinnamon rolls:
Proofing
After shaping the dough, apply a coat of egg wash. This coat will help to prevent a
skin from forming while proofing. Proofing can be done covered at room
temperature at 68–70°F (20–22°C) or in a proof box. When using a proof box, set
temperature at 80°F (27°C) and humidity at 80%. The inclusion of butter in
Viennoiserie requires the proofing temperature to be below 86°F (30°C) to prevent
the butter from melting out of the dough. Due to the delicate nature of the dough, it
cannot be fully proofed without risking the baked products collapsing, so proofing is
completed at 75%. Remember that the additional sugar in the dough will slow
down fermentation, and it may take as long as 90 minutes for the dough to be
proofed properly.
Visually, it may be difficult to identify if the dough is properly proofed. Gently shake
the pan: The movement of the dough can help determine if the dough is properly
proofed. Underproofed dough will look stiff and will not move when the sheet pan is
moved. Properly proofed dough will jiggle slightly when the sheet pan is moved.
Overproofed dough will jiggle, but may collapse and will be difficult to egg wash. Be
careful, though, when testing: Shaking too hard or excessively will cause the dough
to deflate.
Filling and Egg Washing

After the dough is finished proofing, it is prepared for baking. At this point, Danish
and some croissants require fillings to be added. Fillings can include marmalade,
cheese, spinach, sun-dried tomatoes, or pastry cream. Before applying the filling,
gently degas the dough with your fingers where the filling will be deposited.
Omitting this step may cause the filling to fall off the dough during baking.
The dough now undergoes a second egg washing. Remove the product from the
proof box and allow it to sit at room temperature for 5 minutes. This step allows the
dough to cool slightly, making it easier to egg wash. The moisture of the proof box
can make the outer layer of the dough very soft. The short rest at room
temperature will allow this layer to dry slightly, allowing the brush to slide over the
dough, rather than sticking.
Egg wash gives the crust a deeper color and shine. When egg washing the dough,
it is important to apply a thin coat and avoid the egg wash from pooling on or
around the dough. Egg wash that pools on the dough will not only look unattractive,
but it could also add a strong, undesirable egg flavor to the finished product. A soft
brush works best, and a gentle touch will prevent deflating the proofed dough.
Apply the egg wash to the dough in the same direction as the dough is laminated.
For example, a croissant should be brushed following the same way it was rolled,
not from end to end. Brushing over the cut edges of the dough will prevent the
edges from fully expanding as the egg coagulates first.
Baking
Laminated dough relies on steam and yeast to leaven the dough. The correct oven
temperature will ensure that enough steam is developed before the outer layer of
the dough sets. The initial oven temperature of 375°F (190°C) will provide enough
heat to quickly create steam and increase the volume of the Viennoiserie. To
prevent the crust from forming too quickly, 2 to 3 seconds of steam can be injected
in the oven. A small amount of steam will not rinse off the egg wash, just allow the
dough a little more oven spring.
Once the dough has begun to color, vent the oven, allowing any extra steam to
dissipate. It is possible to have a croissant that looks fully baked with an
underbaked interior that will collapse. In order to prevent this, after 5 to 7 minutes,
continue baking at 350°F (180°C) until done. To determine the doneness of
Viennoiserie, the dough should be evenly colored a deep golden brown; the sides
of croissants should be the same color as the top and bottoms. If too much
browning is observed on the bottom of the product, double panning may be
needed. Remember: All ovens have unique characteristics, so testing of oven
settings will need to be conducted to achieve the best results.
Croissants and Danish are very fragile when warm, and care must be used when
handling them right out of the oven. Allow them to cool before moving to the next
step.
Finishing and Storing

After cooling, some croissants and Danish receive additional garnishes. They may
be dusted with powdered sugar, brushed with apricot glaze, piped with chocolate,
garnished with fresh fruit, or have a sugar glaze applied. Store the products
uncovered at room temperature. Due to the delicate nature of the croissant and
Danish, they are best consumed the same day they are produced.
Enriched Breads
Enriched breads cover a wide variety of yeasted doughs, sweet dough, brioche,
coffee cakes, stollen, and donuts. The process of making enriched breads is
similar to those used in Chapter 2. The main difference is that they include larger
quantities of eggs, sugar, and fat.
Mixing
Due to the large quantity of fats and sugar, enriched breads benefit from using the
sponge method and brioche method described in Chapter 2. Some enriched
breads that contain lower percentages of sugar and fat can be mixed using the
straight dough method. Formulas that contain over 10% sugar or fat benefit from
developing the dough before adding the sugar or fat. Adding the sugar and fat
early in the development of the dough increases the mixing time, resulting in an
overoxidized, warm dough.
After mixing, refer to the 14 steps of bread production in Chapter 2. When working
with enriched bread, consider temperature. These doughs will be softer due to the
higher percentage of fat. Chilling the dough will make it easier to shape and
handle. It will also slow down fermentation and provide a better flavor to the dough.
Proofing and Baking

Enriched breads, much like croissants and Danish, benefit from a lower proofing
temperature. To prevent the butter in the dough from melting, a proof box
temperature of 80°F (27°C) and humidity at 80%, work best. After proofing, all
enriched breads must be egg washed. Remove the dough from the proof box and
let it rest for 5 minutes at room temperature before egg washing.
Most enriched breads will be baked in a moderate oven at 350°F (180°C). Larger
loaves may require the temperature of the oven to be lower, to finish baking the
interior of the bread and avoid undesired overbrowning of the crust. Monitor the
bread during the baking process to ensure the dough, especially the bottom, is not
browning too quickly. If the bottom of the dough is taking on too much color, double
panning may be necessary.
Products baked in pans will need to be unmolded to allow excess moisture to

escape from the cooling product. The bread must cool slightly before unmolding,
allowing the bread to stabilize. Unmolding too quickly will cause the bread to
collapse under its own weight. Place the unmolded loaf on a cooling rack,
preventing moisture from building up under the dough.
Puff Pastry
Puff pastry is a laminated dough that does not contain yeast or sugar. The richness
of the dough comes from the butter used for lamination. The amount of butter for
the roll-in can be up to 50% of the final dough. It is used in the production of
turnovers, mille feuille, St Honoré, and arlettes. Because the dough does not
contain sugar, it can be used for savory applications.
There are three different types of puff pastry: traditional, blitz, and reverse.
Traditional puff pastry is made in a similar fashion as the laminated Viennoiserie.
A dough is made and then laminated. The difference is that puff pastry uses four
book folds to create the layers. Traditional puff pastry may contain as many as
1,000 layers of dough and fat. Reverse puff pastry has an equal amount of layers.
Blitz puff pastry is comparable to a pie dough with an increased amount of fat.
Blitz puff pastry gets its name from the fact that is quickly mixed, rested for a short
period of time, and laminated quickly at one time. The layers are not as clearly
defined and it will not be as flaky as the traditional or reverse puff pastry. It is an
excellent option when the desire is for the buttery flavor and a flaky dough that
does not need to rise as high. When traditional puff pastry is baked, it can rise
almost eight times the original thickness. This is done by steam alone. It takes a
considerable amount of time to produce puff pastry, but the end result is flaky, light
dough.
Traditional puff pastry is laminated in the same way as croissant and Danish
dough. Enclosing the fat can be done using the traditional or blunt cross methods,
followed by four book folds. During folds, the dough is rolled to a thickness of ¼ in.
(6 mm). Resting periods between folds remain at 20 minutes. The following
schedule will provide a way to monitor the production of traditional puff pastry.
Baking Puff Pastry

Puff pastry requires steam to create the flakiness associated with the dough. To
create the steam, the dough is started in a hot oven 425°F (220°C). Once the
dough has risen and begun to set, baking is finished at 350°F (180°C) to bake
through the center. Since puff pastry does not contain any sugar, it can withstand
the higher temperature and longer baking time.
Schedule for Producing Puff Pastry Dough
Step Amount of Dough Resting Start Time 7:00

Time AM
Mixing dough 60 minutes 8:00 AM
Butter lock-in and first book 20 minutes

fold
Second book fold 20 minutes
Schedule for Producing Puff Pastry Dough
Step Amount of Dough Resting Start Time 7:00

Time AM
Third book fold 20 minutes
Fourth book fold 60 minutes
Final rolling 15 minutes in freezer
Cutting and shaping
Some products require a flaky dough, but not as flaky as traditional puff pastry. To
create a flaky dough that can be made quickly, pastry chefs use Blitz Puff Pastry.
This dough is similar to pie dough with a higher percentage of fat. The dough is
mixed like a pie dough and then allowed to rest in the refrigerator for 15 minutes
and then rolled. The dough is rolled to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and then given a book fold.
The dough is turned 90 degrees, and this process is completed two more times
without resting the dough. At this point, the dough is rested again for 30 minutes
and then rolled to the desired thickness, ready for use.
Reverse puff pastry has the butter encasing the dough. It is difficult to imagine
rolling butter with a rolling pin, and cannot be done without adding flour to the
butter. This helps to make the butter more dough like, and absorb moisture in the
butter so it does not stick to the rolling pin. The advantage of reverse puff pastry is
that it does not shrink as much during the baking process.
Troubleshooting for Vienoisserie
Issue Cause/Solution
When laminating dough 1. Fat has hardened due to low refrigerator

the butter can be seen temperature or extended time in the refrigerator,
through the dough in reduce resting time in refrigerator
chunks 2. Fat is too cold, use butter that is the same
consistency of the dough
When laminating the 1. Fat is too soft, use butter that is the same
dough the fat breaks consistency of the dough
through the end of the 2. The dough is rolled down too quickly, gradually
dough reduce the thickness of the dough when rolling
to ensure dough and fat roll at the same rate.
Laminated product is not The dough was rolled too thin, follow the thickness
flaky guidelines in the section rolling and folding. Rolling
the dough too thin will compress the layers and
reduce flakiness.
Butter runs out of the The proof box temperature was too high. Reduce
dough in the proof box the temperature of the proof box
Troubleshooting for Vienoisserie
Butter runs out of The dough was not laminated properly; the fat is too
laminated dough when thick in the dough and runs out.
baking
Croissants unroll when 1. The dough is too tough, reduce mixing time for
baking the next batch.
2. When shaping the croissant the dough was
rolled too tightly, roll looser next time
Recipes
Croissant
Yield: 4 lb 1.9 oz (1871 g)
Portions: 24
Yield description: 24 croissants at 2.7 oz (76 g)
Milk, scalded and cooled 1 lb 0.8 oz 477 g 60
Butter, soft 2.5 oz 70 g 8.9
Sugar 1.5 oz 43 g 5.4
Salt 0.65 oz 18 g 2.3
Butter for roll-in 1 lb 454 g 57.1
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients with exception of the roll-in butter.
2. Mix for 5 minutes on second speed, DDT 76°F (24°C)
3. Allow bulk fermentation, 1 hour.
4. Refrigerate for 1 to 12 hours.
5. Follow rolling and folding procedure on page 65.
Whole Wheat Croissant

Yield: 3 lb 14.8 oz (1796 g)
Portions: 23
Yield description: 23 croissants at 2.7 oz (78 g)
Whole Wheat Flour 7 oz 200 g 25
Water 14.1 oz 400 g 50
Milk Powder 0.7 oz 20 g 2.5
Egg Yolk 2.25 oz 64 g 8
Salt 0.6 oz 16 g 2
Sugar 3.1 oz 88 g 11
Instant Yeast 0.28 oz 8g 1
Butter, soft 1.1 oz 32 g 4
Butter for roll-in 12.9 oz 368 g 46
Procedure
5. Follow rolling and folding procedure on page 64.
FIGURE 3.18 Croissant and Whole Wheat Croissant
Danish Dough
Yield: 3 lb 14 oz (1761 g)
Portions: 25
Portion size: 2.25 (65 g)
Yield description: 25 Danish at 2.25 (65 g)
Water 11.9 oz 338 g 45
Sugar 4 oz 112 g 15
Eggs 2.9 oz 83 g 11
Butter, soft 1.3 oz 38 g 5
Milk Powder 1.3 oz 38 g 5
Cardamom 0.13 oz 3.8 g 0.5
Osmotolerant Yeast 0.31 oz 9g 1.2
Salt 0.53 oz 15 g 2
Butter for roll-in 13.2 oz 375 g 50
Procedure
5. Follow rolling and folding procedure on pages 65–66.
FIGURE 3.19 Assorted Danish: Blueberry Almond Cream Danish (top), Pain
au Chocolate (right), Apricot Almond Cream (front)
FIGURE 3.20 Assorted Danish: Bear Claw (top), Cinnamon Cream Cheese
(right), Fresh Fruit Pinwheel (front)
FIGURE 3.21 Assorted Rich Doughs (From top left going clockwise):
Kugelhopf, Brioche Loaf, Stollen, Pain Au Lait with Poppyseeds
Kugelhopf Sponge
Yield: 11.35 oz (321 g)
Portions: 1
Water 4 oz 113 g 59.1
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients; mix for 6 minutes at second speed, DDT 76°F (24°C).
2. Ferment for 1 hour.
Kugelhopf-Soaked Raisins
Yield: 9.25 oz (263 g)
Portions: 1
Raisins 7.75 oz 220 g
Rum 1.5 oz 43 g
Procedure
1. Rinse raisins to remove excess sugars.
2. Drain and dry on paper towels.
3. Pour rum over fruit and soak for 24 hours.
Kugelhopf
Yield: 3 lb 14.6 oz (1780 g)
Portions: 2
Yield Description: 2 loaves at 1 lb 15 oz (890 g)
Milk, scalded and cooled 4 oz 169 g 31.8
Eggs 8 oz 169 g 31.8
Osmotolerant Yeast 0.05 oz 1.6 g 0.3
Salt 0.17 oz 5g 0.9
Sugar 4 oz 113 g 21.2
Butter 7.25 oz 205 g 38.5
Soaked Raisins 9.25 oz 263 g 49.4
Kugelhopf Sponge 11.35 oz 321 g 60.3
Procedure
1. Use intense mix for all ingredients except raisins, DDT 76°F (24°C).
2. Add raisins and mix until combined.
6. Allow bench fermentation 30 minutes.
7. Degas and shape into a ring.
8. Place the dough into buttered fluted mold (9 in. × 4 in.; 22.8 cm × 10 cm).
10. Bake at 350°F (175°C) 40 to 45 minutes.
11. Remove from pans and place on cooling racks.
12. Once bread is completely cooled, dust with powdered sugar.
Pain au Lait
Portions: 33
Yield description: 33 rolls at 2 oz (57 g)
Sugar 3.4 oz 96 g 10
Osmotolerant Yeast 0.27 oz 8g 0.8
Salt 0.71 oz 20 g 2
Eggs 5.1 oz 144 g 15
Milk, scalded and cooled 1 lb 0.9 oz 480 g 50
Butter, soft 7.1 oz 200 g 20.8
Procedure
3. Refrigerate overnight.
4. Scale into 2 oz (56.7 g) rolls.
6. Egg wash.
7. Bake 350°F (176°C).
Stollen Sponge
Yield: 10.25 oz (276 g)
Portions: 1
Water 6 oz 160 g 200
Milk Powder 0.75 oz 20 g 25
Instant Yeast 0.5 oz 14 g 18
Honey 0.09 oz 2.4 g 3
Procedure
1. Combine ingredients with paddle and mix for 5 minutes.
2. Ferment for 1 hour at 72°F (22 C).
Stollen Fruit
Yield: 1 lb 3.5 oz (562 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 at 1 lb 3.5 oz (562 g)
Golden Raisins 8.25 oz 238 g
Raisins 8.25 oz 238 g
Candied Orange Peel 1.25 oz 36 g

Rum 1.75 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Rinse all fruit to remove excess sugars.
2. Drain and dry on paper towels.
3. Pour rum over fruit and soak for 24 hours.
Stollen Almond Paste

Yield: 8 oz (240 g)
Portions: 5
Yield description: 5 pieces at 1.5 oz (43 g)
Almond Paste 8 oz 225 g
Procedure
1. Mix ingredients to combine.
2. Scale almond paste mixture at 1.5 oz (43 g) and roll into a cylinder 7 in. (17 cm)
long.
3. Reserve in refrigerator for final bread shaping.
Stollen Final Dough

Portions: 4
Sponge 9.4 oz 273 g 43
Water 1.4 oz 40 g 6.3
Sugar 2.2 oz 63.5 g 10
Whole Eggs 4.1 oz 120 g 18.8
Butter 11 oz 317 g 50
Salt 0.4 oz 12.7 g 2
Stollen Fruit 1 lb 3.5 oz 562 g 88.5
Sliced Almonds 2 oz 57 g 9
Lemon Zest 0.2 oz 6g 1
Spice Blend 0.2 oz 6g 1
Note: Spice blend is equal parts nutmeg and mace by weight.
Procedure
1. Combine first seven ingredients using intense mix, DDT 76°F (24°C).
2. Add remaining ingredients and mix for an additional 2 minutes.
5. Allow bench fermentation 30 minutes.
6. Degas and flatten center of loaf with a rolling pin.
7. Enclose the almond paste mixture in the dough; fold the dough over.
10. While loaves are still warm, brush all surfaces including the bottom with 6 oz
(170 g) of melted butter and dredge in sugar.
11. Once bread is completely cooled, dust with powdered sugar.
Brioche
Yield: 4 lb (1818 g)
Portions: 4
Portion size: 1 lb (454 g)
Yield description: 4 loaves at 1 lb (454 g)
Milk 7.1 oz 200 g 24.2
Eggs 10.9 oz 310 g 37.6
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g 6.1
Salt 0.6 oz 16 g 1.9

Butter, cold and cubed 14.5 oz 410 g 49.7
Procedure
1. Mix all ingredients except butter for 8 minutes on second speed, DDT 78°F (25°
C).
2. Add the butter and continue mixing until it is incorporated.
5. Scale into 1 lb (454 g).
6. Shape into loaves and place into greased loaf pans.
8. Egg wash.
Sweet Dough
Portions: 24
Yield description: 24 cinnamon rolls at 2.29 oz (60 g)
Milk, scalded and cooled 11.6 oz 330 g 41
Eggs 3.1 oz 88 g 11
Sugar 4.8 oz 135 g 17
Osmotolerant Yeast 0.3 oz 9.5 g 1.1
Salt 0.2 oz 5.6 g 0.7
Vanilla Paste 0.2 oz 5.6 g 0.7
Procedure
1. Use straight dough method.
2. Mix for 8 minutes.
3. Ferment dough for 1 hour at room temperature, 72°F (22°C).

4. Refrigerate for 12 hours before using dough.
5. Roll dough to 12 in. (40 cm) wide and thickness of ⅛ in. (3 mm).
6. Spread a thin layer of cinnamon smear on dough and roll.
7. Cut into 0.75 in. (20 mm) thick pieces.
Cinnamon Smear for Cinnamon Rolls

Yield: 1 lb 10.5 oz (752 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 24 cinnamon rolls at 1.1 oz (31 g)
Brown Sugar 1 lb 454 g
Butter, soft 8 oz 227 g
Cinnamon 1 oz 28 g
Egg Whites 1.5 oz 43 g
Procedure
1. Cream butter, brown sugar, and cinnamon on low.
2. Slowly add egg whites, scraping often.
3. Reserve in refrigerator.
Sticky Bun Smear

Yield: 1 lb 3.25 oz (577.5 g)
Portions: 3
Portion size: 10-in. (25-cm) cake pans
Yield description: Three 10-in. (25-cm) cake pans
Brown Sugar 10 oz 300 g
Butter 4 oz 120 g
Honey 2.5 oz 75 g
Corn Syrup 2.5 oz 75 g

Vanilla Bean Paste 0.25 oz 7.5 g
Procedure
1. Cream butter and sugar.
2. Add honey and corn syrup on low speed.
3. Add vanilla on low speed.
4. Mix until combined.
5. Spread a thin layer into a 10-in. (25-cm) cake pan.
6. Top with 8 cinnamon rolls.
7. Follow proofing and baking directions for cinnamon rolls.
Almond Cream
Yield: 1 lb (452 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 at 1 lb (452 g)
Almond Flour 4 oz 113 g
Sugar 4 oz 113 g
Whole Eggs 4 oz 113 g
Note: Observe mixing speeds when making almond cream. Incorporating air during mixing
will cause the cream to collapse after baking.
Procedure
1. Combine almond flour, sugar, and butter.
2. Mix with paddle attachment on low speed until combined.
3. Slowly incorporate eggs in three additions, scraping thoroughly.
Bear Claw Filling

Portions: 1
Almond Paste 4 oz 113 g
Sugar 4 oz 113 g
Cake Crumbs 1 lb 454 g
Eggs 3 oz 85 g
Procedure
1. Cream almond paste and sugar on low speed.
2. Add butter and cake crumbs.
3. Slowly add eggs, scraping often.
Oat Streusel
Yield: 1 lb 14.85 oz (874 g)
Portions: 1
All-Purpose Flour 8.75 oz 248 g
Instant Oats 6 oz 170 g
Brown Sugar 8 oz 227 g
Cinnamon 0.1 oz 2.8 g
Butter 8 oz 227 g
Procedure
1. Cube butter into ¼-in. cubes and place in the refrigerator
2. Place dry ingredients in a mixing bowl.
3. Blend dry ingredients.
4. Add cold fat and continue mixing until fat is a cornmeal consistency.
5. Top Danish or other pastries as desired before baking.
6. Refrigerate any additional Oat Streusel for up to 7 days.
Cream Cheese Filling
Yield: 1 lb 9.4 oz (721 g)

Portions: 1
Cream Cheese 1 lb 454 g
Sugar 8 oz 227 g
Salt 0.2 oz 5.6 g
Vanilla Paste 0.25 oz 7.1 g
Egg Yolk 1 oz 28 g
Procedure
1. Cream sugar and cream cheese on low speed, scraping often.
2. Add remaining ingredients and mix until smooth.
3. Shape Danish dough using the cinnamon roll procedure, p. 66.
4. After proofing, fill the Danish dough using the filling procedure, p. 66.
5. Pipe the cream cheese filling into the indention created in the Danish dough.
6. Top with Oatmeal Streusel and bake following the procedure on p. 67.
7. Cool completely and dust with powdered sugar.
Puff Pastry
Yield: 3 lb 1.75 oz (1414 g)
Portions: 1
Bread Flour 1 lb 454 g 69.5
Water 7 oz 200 g 30.5
Butter, melted 5.3 oz 150 g 22.9
Salt 0.35 oz 10 g 1.5
Butter for roll-in, cubed 14.1 oz 400 g 61.2
Bread Flour for roll-in 7 oz 200 g 30.5
Procedure
1. Combine first four ingredients and mix for 5 minutes on second speed with
dough hook.
2. Combine butter and flour for roll-in in a mixer.
3. Cover dough and rest under refrigeration for a minimum of 1 hour.
4. To complete laminating dough, follow the schedule for producing puff pastry on
page 69.
Blitz Puff Pastry

Portions: 1
All-Purpose Flour 1 lb 454 g 100
Butter 1 lb 454 g 100
Water, ice cold 8 oz 227 g 50
Salt 0.3 oz 8.5 g 2
Procedure
1. Cut butter into ¼-in. cubes and place in refrigerator.
2. Cut cold butter into flour on low speed.
3. Dissolve salt in water.
4. When mixture is pea size, add ice-cold water and mix until a dough forms.
5. Place dough in the refrigerator for 1 hour.
6. Roll dough to ¼ in. and complete a three-fold.
7. Immediately turn the dough 90 degrees and repeat steps 6 and 7 two more
times.
8. Refrigerate the dough for 30 minutes.
9. Roll dough to desired thickness.
Key Terms
Lamination
Scalding
Osmotolerant yeast
Croissant
Danish
Blunt cross
Single fold
Book fold
Enriched breads
Traditional puff pastry
Reverse puff pastry
Blitz puff pastry

1. Discuss how fat is used in Viennoiserie and enriched doughs to produce
different products.
2. What is osmotolerant yeast?
3. Identify the advantages and disadvantages associated with butter, shortening,
and margarine in laminated doughs.
4. Why are laminated doughs rested between rolling and folding?
5. Each type of puff pastry has an advantage. Describe the benefits associated
with all three.
6. Why is it important to scald milk?
Modern Pastry Techniques Page 1 of 45
CHAPTER 4
Modern Pastry Techniques
Pastry chefs are constantly looking for ways to enhance the experience of their
guests through the use of new techniques and ingredients. A spoon of a flavorful
gravity defying foam, adding something crunchy, or even a fruit flavored caviar
added to a dish, all of this can be achieved through the use of modern cooking
techniques. The use of these ingredients is nothing new, they have been used for
years to improve the quality of products we eat every day. As these ingredients
http://e.pub/o5765c1ks2xvvmp99r40.vbk/OPS/c04.xhtml 7/10/2020
have become more easily available chefs and pastry chefs have a chance to
experiment and create new experiences for their guests.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Prepare foams using various hydrocolloids.
2. Explain bloom strength of gelatin.
3. Describe the difference between spherification and reverse spherification.
4. Identify how hydrocolloids can be used to improve existing recipes.
Modern Cuisine
Many of the top restaurants in the world have gained a reputation through a use of
modern cooking techniques. ElBulli in Spain was first credited with using the
ingredients and techniques in a full-service restaurant. The techniques used in
ElBulli kitchens made them the top restaurant in the world a total of five times.
There are many other restaurants around the world that build on the popularity of
modern techniques, using ingredients that have been around for a long time and
have only recently worked their way into the kitchen.
Originally, the manufacturing industry used these ingredients in foods that were
readily available in the corner grocery store. Manufacturers used large quantities of
the ingredients. Finding them in smaller quantities was a challenge to restaurant
chefs. Acquiring these ingredients became easier due to the increase in popularity
and smaller packaging made it possible for many smaller restaurants to experiment
with the ingredients.
As more and more restaurants began using modern techniques and ingredients,
the industry adopted the phrase molecular gastronomy to identify this style of
cooking. This term conjures up thoughts of using chemicals in food, yet nothing
could be further from the truth. Modern cuisine is a better way to describe this style
of cooking. It incorporates ingredients and different techniques to create food.
There are no unnatural additives used; most of the ingredients used are plant-
based, with the exception of gelatin, which is animal-based—and these ingredients
are consumed every day.
Basics of Modern Pastry

Getting Started
The correct name for the group of ingredients used for creating modern cuisine is
hydrocolloids, a substance that forms a gel in the presence of water.
Hydrocolloids bind the water molecules and affect the texture and viscosity of
foods. The most common uses include thickening, gelling, emulsifying, and
stabilization. It is important to understand how the ingredients in the recipe interact
with one another. The ability to gel or thicken a product is based on the type of
hydrocolloid, the quantity, the pH of the ingredients, and the temperature of the
ingredients.
Equipment
If precision were an ingredient in modern cuisine, it would be the most important
part of the recipe. Many of the recipes throughout this book use small quantities of
ingredients that would be extremely difficult to scale using ounces, and volume is
not an accurate way to scale these ingredients. As a result, it is necessary to use a
small gram scale that can measure to 1/100 of a gram. The more precision used in
scaling will yield the most consistent results. The only other equipment needed is
an immersion blender, blender, and probe thermometer. Immersion blenders and
blenders are used to create powders and foams. Probe thermometers can give
accurate readings of solutions and ingredients. Remember that modern cuisine
relies greatly on science and precision to get the correct results.
Additional equipment associated with modern cuisine includes immersion
circulators, vacuum sealers, ISI cream whippers, and dehydrators. An immersion
circulator offers a precisely controlled temperature and is adjustable to 1/10°F
(0.05°C). It can be precisely adjusted to the temperature and circulate the water
around the food, ensuring quick and even cooking. A combi oven can be used in
the same way, with very similar results. Set the oven to combi cooking mode with
the temperature needed and 40% steam. Both of these methods provide accurate
cooking temperatures. The precision at which they operate allows for the food to
cook to the proper temperature without overcooking. Whichever of these methods
are used, it is necessary to have a vacuum sealer. The food must be completely
sealed in a vacuum bag. Cooking in this style is referred to as sous vide, which
literally translates from French to “under vacuum.” During the cooking process, this
prevents moisture from getting into the food, and shortens the cooking time. The
vacuum bag must be completely free of air. Air is a poor conductor of heat and
prevents the warm water of the immersion circulate from coming into contact with
the food in the vacuum bag. The bag must be sealed and completely vacuumed to
allow the heat to penetrate the food equally from all sides. Vacuum sealers can
also be used to compress fruits for plated desserts.
One of the easiest techniques to start with when beginning with modern techniques
is making foams. They are a fun way to add flavor and visual texture to a plate. A
foam is a frothed mixture; it can be fruit based, coffee, vanilla, or chocolate—the
possibilities are endless. There are many different ways to create foams—one way
is to use an ISI cream whipper with nitrous oxide (N2O). N2O creates a dense foam
similar to shaving cream. Hot or cold foams can be made. The cream whipper can
also be charged with carbon dioxode (CO2). CO2 does not produce a stable foam
but can be used to create customs carbonated sodas for desserts. Fresh fruit, such
as cherries, can also be placed inside the cream whipper and charged with CO2.
This infuses the fruit with CO2; as the fruit is eaten, it fizzes just like soda.
FIGURE 4.1 Properly sealed vacuum bag (left) and improperly sealed
vacuum bag (right)
Dehydrators are used to dry out fruits and fruit leathers, and can be used to hold
products at specific temperatures. While cooking cannot be accomplished in a
dehydrator, some models reach high enough temperatures to hold food at safe
temperatures. Most of the time, dehydrators are used strictly to dry products or
even reduce liquids that do not need to be cooked. Low temperatures allow extra
moisture to evaporate from a fruit purée without overheating and changing the
flavor or color. If a dehydrator is not available, the same results can be achieved by
using a low oven.
Animal-Based Hydrocolloids
Gelatin
It seems hard to believe that gelatin is a hydrocolloid, considering it is readily
available in almost every pastry shop. Gelatin is used to stabilize mousse, create
foams, and clarify liquids. As other hydrocolloids such as carrageenan and agar
have become more readily available, the role of gelatin has decreased. These
newer products create firmness in mousses and gels and provide a texture.
Gelatin is produced through chemically denaturing collagen from the bones,
connective tissue, and skins of pork, beef, or fish. Pork is the primary source for
gelatins used in the pastry kitchen. When processing pork products into gelatin an
acid is added to the water to transform the collagen into gelatin. The gelatin is then
filtered, purified, and reduced to a powder or sheet form.
Gelatin is easily usable and works in most applications, but there are some areas
that need to be addressed when working with gelatin. One drawback to gelatin is
that it is an animal-product base. Including gelatin in recipes means that a small
percentage of the population, such as vegetarians and individuals with special
dietary restrictions or religious beliefs, cannot eat these products.
There are not many ingredients that inhibit the setting of gelatin. Tannins in tea,
salts, acids, alcohol, and bromelain cause gelatin to lose setting strength.
Bromelain is an enzyme present in many tropical fruits such as pineapple, kiwi,

mango, papaya, peach, and guava. However, if you heat the fruit to 185°F (85°C),
it will denature the enzyme and allow the gelatin to set.
Blooming Gelatin
Gelatin must be bloomed prior to use. Blooming gelatin is the process of hydrating
the gelatin in a liquid. Recipes using powder gelatin will also have the amount of
liquid to bloom. Typically, this is 4 parts liquid to 1 part gelatin. Blooming powder
gelatin in warm water may cause the gelatin to form clumps before hydrating fully,
reducing the setting strength. When blooming sheet gelatin, it is completely
covered with cold water until it softens. Some recipes will specify the amount of
liquid to use when blooming sheet gelatin, amount of time, or the weight of the
gelatin after blooming. It is critical to properly bloom the gelatin. Not following the
procedure correctly can produce a product that is too soft and falls apart or is too
stiff and unpleasant to eat.
After the gelatin is bloomed, it must be dissolved over a water bath or carefully in a
microwave. Gelatin is thermoreversible, meaning it can be melted and set
repeatedly without losing any strength. However, use caution when heating gelatin
to not boil it, as this will reduce the setting strength.
When using gelatin, it is important to think about the temperature at which the
gelatin will be served. Food containing gelatin will be firmer at cold
temperatures—for example, a plated dessert served right out of the cooler. An item
placed on the buffet will gradually warm to room temperature. As the temperature
increases, the gelatin will begin to soften and lose some of the structure it had
when cold. Consider a small increase in the amount of gelatin when preparing
items that will be served on a buffet. Gelatin melts below body temperature. When
eating the dessert the gelatin melts in the mouth, which adds a desirable mouth
feel. The characteristics of gelatin are what make it great as a way to set desserts.
Bloom Strength
Oscar Bloom is credited with inventing a way to test the strength of gelatin. Bloom
strength of gelatin varies; the higher the number, the stronger the gelatin will set.
The bloom strength of powder gelatin is listed on the packaging or can be acquired
through the distributor. The powder gelatin used in this book has a bloom strength
of 225.
Sheet gelatin is available in different grades: bronze, silver, gold, or platinum.
When sheet gelatin is used in a recipe it can be scaled by the sheet or by weight.
Recipes in this text will specify sheet gelatin by the piece. Gelatin counted by the
sheet can be interchanged between the different grades without making any
quantity changes. The Gelatin Bloom Strengths chart below states the weights and
bloom strength per sheet. Platinum gelatin contains fewer impurities than gold
gelatin. A more refined gelatin will not impart any color, flavor, or odor in the final
product. The difference in the sheet weight is mostly impurities. Removing these
impurities from the platinum gelatin create a lighter sheet that still has the same
setting strength as a sheet of gold gelatin. The recipes included in this text use
gold sheet gelatin.
Gelatin Bloom Strengths
Name Bloom Strength Grams per Sheet
Gelatin Bloom Strengths
Name Bloom Strength Grams per Sheet

Bronze 140 3.3
Silver 160 2.5
Gold 200 2
Powder 225
Platinum 250 1.7
Gelatin Conversion
It is important to work with both sheet and powder gelatin. The formula below can
be used to adjust between powder and sheet gelatin.
For this example, we need to convert from 10 grams powder gelatin to platinum
sheet gelatin. In the formula the powder will be GelatinA, and platinum sheet
gelatin will be GelatinB.
GelatinB = GelatinA × (Bloom Strength GelatinA/Bloom Strength GelatinB)
The first step is to place the numbers into the formula:
GelatinB = 10 g × (225/250)
Now divide the bloom strengths.
Gelatin B = 10 grams × 0.9
Multiply the weight by 0.9 to get the answer.
GelatinB = 9 grams of platinum sheet gelatin
When calculating the replacement values from powder to sheet, be sure to
remember the answer is in weight, not in sheet count.
Gelatin
Origin Animal collagen
Thermoreversible Yes
Texture Soft gel, melts below body temperature
Clarity Clear
Dispersion Blooms in cold water
Melting Temperature 95°F (35°C)
Setting Temperature 69°F (20°C)
Setting Speed Slow, hours
Promoters Sugar, milk
Gelatin
Inhibitors Alcohol, salt, acid, tannins
Plant-Based Hydrocolloids
Agar
Also referred to as agar-agar, the name originates from the Malay language for the
red algae used to produce the agar. Agar has been used in Asia for over 400 years
to produce jelly desserts. Its discovery was made when red algae was boiled with
water. As the liquid cooled, it set into a firm gel. Today, the agar is extracted much
in the same way. After extraction, the agar is filtered and then freeze-dried and
ground into a powder.
Agar is also known as a vegetarian form of gelatin. It can be used to stabilize
mousses, creams, and jellies. When using agar, the powder is added to a cold or
hot liquid and heated to a boil. The gel will set at 105°F (40°C). This is a special
property of agar—the high melting point and low setting point is known as
hysteresis. Warming the agar gel back to 185°F (85°C) will return the jelly to a
liquid, that will set again. Products made with agar can withstand higher
temperatures without melting or weeping. They can even be served hot and still
maintain a gelled consistency. When agar is set, it forms a brittle gel that will not
melt in the mouth.
Agar
Origin Red algae
Texture Heat resistant, brittle
Clarity Semi opaque
Dispersion Cold or hot water
Melting Temperature 195°F (90°C)
Setting Temperature 105°F (40°C)
Setting Speed Fast, minutes
Promoters Sugar, sorbitol and glycerol
Inhibitors Tannic acid
Carrageenan
Carrageenan, like agar, is extracted from red algae. Carrageenan can produce a
thickening effect in a sauce to firm gels. A range of textures in the gels can be
achieved from soft and elastic to firm and brittle. The name comes from the Gaelic
term for moss, carraigin. Dating back more than 200 years, the red algae was
boiled in milk, and this mixture thickened into a custard as it cooled. It wasn't until
the 1930s that carrageenan became an ingredient used by manufacturers of food.
Carrageenan can be used to increase the viscosity of a liquid, set a custard,
suspend particles, and substitute fat. Soy milk uses carrageenan to create a
texture similar to milk; without this, the soy milk would have a watery consistency. It
is also added to milkshakes to create a thicker mouthfeel. Italian dressing uses
carrageenan to suspend particulate in the dressing. Chocolate milk also benefits
from the carrageenan's ability to suspend particles—without it, the cocoa solids
would settle out of the milk.
Carrageenan can be used as a vegetarian form of gelatin to stabilize mousse and
creams. When using carrageenan, the powder is combined with sugar, then added
to the cold liquid. The mixture is then brought to a boil, poured into molds, and
allowed to set.
Carrageenan
Iota Kappa
Origin Red seaweed Red seaweed
Thermoreversible Yes Yes
Texture Soft gel when used with Firm, brittle gel when used
calcium with potassium
Clarity Opaque Cloudy
Dispersion Cold water, combine Cold water, combine with

with sugar sugar
Melting 176°F (80°C) 176°F (80°C)

Temperature
Setting 158°F (70°C) 158°F (70°C)

Temperature
Setting Speed Fast, during cooling Fast, during cooling
Promoters Calcium Potassium
Inhibitors N/A Salts
Gellan
Gellan is a unique gum produced by fermenting algae. It is available in two forms:
low acyl and high acyl. Gellan is used to create gels, reduced-sugar jams, baked
fillings, and spherifications. Spherification is the process of shaping liquids into
spheres by adding drops of one liquid into a second solution. It is one of the most
flexible hydrocolloids, and can be used with almost any ingredient regardless of the
acidity. It sets quickly, can be easily molded, and does not impart any flavor.
Modern cuisine is not just about ingredients and procedures. It also incorporates
textures in the experience. Gellan gum has many unique properties. For instance,
the texture of the gel has a unique mouthfeel. Using gellan along with pectin in a
fruit filling creates a filling that will not run when heated, reducing the possibility of
running out and burning. The low acyl produces a firm gel similar to agar and
kappa carrageenan, while the high produces a softer gel. As the gel is broken
apart, it feels as if it is going from a solid back to a liquid. High acyl gellan has a
short hysteresis, which makes it suitable for quickly setting products along with
gelatin or other hydrocolloids for fast unmolding.
Gellan
Low Acyl High Acyl
Origin Fermentation of Algae Fermentation of

Algae
Thermoreversible No Yes
Texture Brittle gel Elastic gel
Clarity Transparent Opaque
Dispersion Cold water Cold water
Melting Does not melt 176°F (80°C)

Temperature
Setting 140°F (60°C) 158°F (70°C)

Temperature
Setting Speed Quick set, minutes Quick set, minutes
Promoters Calcium, sodium, potassium, N/A

acids
Inhibitors Sodium/calcium salts N/A
Lecithin
Lecithin is not technically a hydrocolloid, but it is incorporated in many modern
cuisine recipes. Increased flexibility of this ingredient is due to being a
phospholipid—it is able to dissolve in fats and liquids. It is used primarily for
creating foams, as an emulsifier, and to improve the elasticity of bread. Foams, a
light airy soap-bubble-like type of sauce, are one of the most popular techniques
and one of the easiest to test.
Lecithin dissolves best in cold solutions. Incorporating excessive quantities of
lecithin in a recipe will not produce a stable foam. When testing, start with smaller
quantities and then work up until the desired foam is achieved. Adding a few drops
of fat to a foam will help to create a stronger foam.
Foams can be either a cold or hot preparation. To foam the mixture, use an
immersion blender and start at the top of the liquid. This will help to incorporate air.
As the mixture begins to foam, move the immersion blender down into the mixture.
Allow the foam to rest for a minute before using. This will allow some of the liquid in
the foam to settle down to the bottom of the foam and prevent the foam from
bleeding on the plate. Carefully spoon the foam from the top and add to the
dessert.
Lecithin
Origin Soybeans
Thermoreversible N/A
Texture N/A
Clarity N/A
Dispersion Cold liquid or fat
Melting Temperature N/A
Setting Temperature N/A
Setting Speed N/A
Promoters N/A
Inhibitors N/A
1. Passion Fruit Purée, lecithin, distilled water, sugar, and immersion

blender
2. Sugar and lecithin are added to passion fruit purée and water
3. Holding container is at an angle starting to foam
4. Foam rests in the container for 3 to 5 minutes
5. Foam is applied to a dessert

FIGURE 4.3a–e Foaming procedure
Methylcellulose
Methylcellulose is derived from cellulose, the main component of cellulose-rich
plant cell walls. When it is heated, it forms a solid gel—think of a warm panna
cotta. As it cools, it returns to a liquid state, oftentimes referred to as melting. Think
of the experience of serving a warm “ice cream” that turns into a liquid as it cools.
This is the opposite of what is expected to happen. Normally, food softens as it
warms, and in the case of ice cream, it melts when it warms.
Creating warm custards is a fun way to work with methylcellulose, but there are
many practical applications as well. Many baked fillings lose shape as they bake.
Methylcellulose can help to retain the shape of these items while they are heated.
In a cold state, methylcellulose can increase the viscosity of sauces as well as
create foams. The foam is prepared when the liquid is cool. After foaming, the
foam is placed in a warm oven, setting the methylcellulose. Dried overnight, the
results are a crisp, light foam.
Methylcellulose
Origin Cellulose-rich plants
Methylcellulose
Texture Cold—Foams
Hot—Soft elastic gel
Clarity Opaque
Dispersion Hot or cold
Melting Temperature Melts below 140°F (60°C)
Setting Temperature Gels at 140°F (60°C)
Setting Speed Quick, minutes
Promoters Alcohol
Inhibitors Salt
Pectin
Pectin is produced from many fruits—citrus, apples, apricots, and cherries. Apple
pomace and citrus peels account for the majority of pectin used today. Marmalades
and jellies are set with the use of pectin. They are classified into two groups: low
methoxyl (LM) and high methoxyl (HM). Pectin requires additional ingredients,
calcium or acid, to act as jellifiers. Be sure to check the pectin used in the recipe to
ensure the desired results are achieved.
All LM pectins are thermoreversible, can gel in low sugar environments, and
require calcium to set. NH, a subcategory under LM, is used for glazes and fillings.
This pectin is a blend of LM pectin and calcium. HM Pectins are not reversible,
need a high percentage of sugar, and need an acid to set the pectin. These pectins
are used for jams, jellies, and pâte de fruit.
When adding pectin to a recipe, combine it with some of the granulated sugar to
prevent encapsulation. Encapsulation occurs when a fine powdered ingredient is
combined with a liquid. The liquid quickly forms a shell around the dry powder.
Once this happens, it is extremely difficult to break the sphere of dry pectin. This
creates lumps in the mixture and reduces the setting strength due to a reduction in
the amount of pectin.
Pectin
Low Methoxyl (LM) High Methoxyl (HM)
Origin Citrus peel and apple Citrus peel and apple

pomace pomace
Thermoreversible Yes No
Texture Gel Gel
Clarity Transparent Transparent
Dispersion Cold or hot water Cold or hot water
Pectin
Low Methoxyl (LM) High Methoxyl (HM)

Melting Yes No
Setting Varies 140°F (60°C)

Temperature
Setting Speed Slow Slow
Promoters Calcium Acid, high sugar %
Inhibitors High sugar % N/A
Sodium Alginate
Sodium alginate, a product of brown algae, is used in the spherification process.
Almost any liquid can be used to create spheres of “caviar.” Sodium alginate is
added to a flavored liquid and dropped into a solution of calcium chloride. As the
spheres are dropped into the calcium chloride, the solutions interact and create a
membrane around the droplet. For small drops, 30 seconds is adequate to form the
membrane. Remove the spheres and rinse under cold running water to remove
any excess calcium chloride. This process continues to transform the sphere into a
solid. After removing from the calcium chloride and thoroughly rinsing, they must
be served immediately to maintain a liquid center.
When working with acidic fruits with a pH lower than 4, sodium citrate can be
added to neutralize the acid. The pH can be tested with paper test strips or a digital
meter. Acidic fruit will cause the sodium alginate to gel prematurely, which makes it
difficult to form droplets, as the mixture will be too thick.
Reverse spherification changes the way the solutions are combined. The
flavored liquid is combined with the calcium chloride and placed into a sodium
alginate bath. An immersion blender is used to combine the alginate and water. As
the alginate hydrates, the liquid becomes viscous and traps small bubbles. To
create a smooth, clear sphere, this solution needs to rest for several hours. Using
reverse spherification, larger spheres with liquid center can be made. When the
sphere is removed from the alginate bath, the reaction between the two solutions
stops.
Sodium Alginate
Origin Brown algae
Thermoreversible No
Texture Spherification—Firm, solid gel

Reverse spherification—Firm gel with liquid center
Clarity Clear
Dispersion Cold water
Melting Temperature No
Sodium Alginate
Setting Temperature Independent of temperature
Setting Speed Depends on size; 30 seconds to 5 minutes
Promoters Calcium for gelling
Inhibitors pH less than 4
Tapioca Maltodextrin
Tapioca maltodextrin is a starch that has the ability to absorb oil. Flavorful powders
can be created with any fat-based items. A ratio of 2 parts tapioca maltodextrin to 1
part fat is the recommended starting point. The liquid fat is streamed into a food
processor containing tapioca maltodextrin. When combined at high speed, the fat
is dispersed in small globules; mixing at a slower rate will cause larger lumps.
When eaten, the powder dissolves when it comes in contact with water in the
mouth, leaving the flavor of the fat behind. Tapioca maltodextrin can be used with
olive oil, chocolates, Nutella, butter, caramel, and even bacon fat.
Tapioca Maltodextrin
Origin Tapioca
Thermoreversible no
Texture Dry powder that absorbs fat
Clarity Opaque
Dispersion N/A
Melting Temperature Melts on contact with water
Setting Speed N/A
Promoters N/A
Inhibitors N/A
Xanthan
Xanthan is produced by the fermentation of glucose, sucrose, or lactose. It is most
commonly used as a thickener, foam, and emulsifier. Gluten-free products that
contain a large percentage of water can use Xanthan to help absorb the water.
Since xanthan does not need to be heated, it is an excellent thickener for fruit
sauces. It emulsifies the pulp of the fruit with the water and prevents the sauce
from bleeding on the plate. Adding too much Xanthan can create a stringy texture
that is not desirable.
Xanthan
Origin Fermentation of Glucose, Sucrose, or Lactose
Texture High viscosity
Clarity Clear
Dispersion Cold
Melting Temperature N/A
Setting Speed N/A
Promoters N/A
Inhibitors N/A
Gelatin Recipes
Strawberry Water (gelatin clarification)
Portions: 1
Strawberry Juice 2 lb 3.3 oz 1000 g
Gelatin Powder 0.26 oz 7.5 g
Note: To make the strawberry juice, process fresh strawberries through a juicer. Any fruit
juice can be clarified using this method.
Procedure
1. To bloom the gelatin, sprinkle the gelatin powder on top of the cold strawberry
juice.
2. Allow gelatin to bloom for 15 minutes.
3. Warm to 85°F (30°C). Be careful to not overheat this mixture, as it will cause
the color and flavor to change.
4. Place juice into a hotel pan and place in freezer overnight.
5. While still frozen, carefully cut frozen juice into 2 in. (5 cm) squares; this will
yield more juice as the mixture thaws.
6. Line a chinois with rinsed cheesecloth and place the cut juice pieces inside the
cheesecloth.
7. Place the chinois into a bain marie and cover with plastic wrap.
8. Allow mixture to thaw under refrigeration for 2 days.
FIGURE 4.2 Gelatin clarification: clarified strawberry juice (left) and

strawberry juice (right)
Vanilla Bean Vodka Foam

Yield: 14.1 oz (400 g)
Portions: 1
Vodka 12 oz 340 g
Sugar 2.1 oz 60 g
Gelatin Sheets, bloomed 3 each 3 each
Vanilla Beans, split and scraped 2 each 2 each
Note: After charging the ISI siphon with the carbon dioxide, the container is under high
pressure. Be sure to release all pressure before attempting to open the siphon.
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients and warm to dissolve sugar.
3. Place into an ISI siphon and charge with 2 nitrous oxide charges, shaking
between additions.
4. Place in refrigerator for 4 hours.
5. Dispense as needed.
Raspberry Cloud
Yield: 14.1 oz (400 g)
Portions: 1
Raspberry Purée 11.8 oz 335 g
Sugar 2.3 oz 65 g
Procedure
1. Heat 100 g of purée with sugar and gelatin to dissolve sugar.
2. Place remaining 235 g of cold purée in a mixer with a whip attachment.
3. Turn mixer to high speed and add warmed purée mixture.
4. As the gelatin begins to set, it will incorporate air.
5. Mixture can be used as a loose foam on top of a dessert or refrigerated for 4
hours and then shaped into a quenelle for service.
Agar Recipes
Dehydrated Curd
Yield: 2 lb 8.8 oz (1164 g)
Portions: 1
Lemon Juice 9.5 oz 270 g
Sugar 9.5 oz 270 g
Butter, cold and cubed 12.3 oz 350 g

Agar 0.14 oz 4g
Procedure
1. Combine lemon juice, eggs, sugar, and agar in a heavy-bottom saucepan and
bring to a boil.
2. Boil mixture for 1 minute while whisking constantly.
3. Pour mixture into a blender and add 2 cubes of butter at a time.
4. Strain through a chinois and refrigerate for 12 hours.
5. Mix the curd with a whisk to soften and smooth mixture.
6. Spread a thin layer on a silpat and dehydrate at 135°F (60°C) until completely
dried.
7. Store in an airtight container.
Milk Chocolate Agar Mousse

Yield: 2 lb 5.2 oz (1058 g)
Portions: 9
Yield description: 9 portions at 4 oz (113 g)
Milk Chocolate 10.5 oz 300 g
Milk 7 oz 200 g
Sugar 1.75 oz 50 g
Agar 0.28 oz 8g
Heavy Cream, whipped to soft peaks 1 lb 1.7 oz 500 g
Procedure
1. Melt milk chocolate.
2. Mix agar with sugar and then whisk into milk.
3. Bring milk mixture to a boil and combine with melted chocolate to make a
ganache.
4. Cool ganache to 105°F (40°C) and fold in whipped cream.
5. Pour into molds and refrigerate.
Bakeproof Raspberry Jam

Portions: 1

IQF Raspberries 14.8 oz 420 g
Sugar 14.1 oz 400 g
Agar 0.18 oz 5g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and agar.
2. Add sugar mixture to IQF raspberries in a heavy-bottom saucepan.
3. Heat on low until raspberries start to break down.
4. Strain to remove seeds.
5. Return liquid to heat and bring to a boil.
6. Place in a container and cool; store in refrigerator.
White Chocolate Pliable Ganache

Portions: 16
Heavy Cream 12.7 oz 360 g
Sheet Gelatin, bloomed 1.5 each 1.5 each
White Chocolate 15.9 oz 450 g
Distilled Water 1.97 oz 56 g
Sorbitol 3.5 oz 100 g
Agar 0.14 oz 4g
Glucose 0.14 oz 4g
Salt 0.11 3g
Orange Blossom Water 20 drops 20 drops
Note: Milk Chocolate can be substituted for White Chocolate.
Procedure
1. Combine heavy cream, distilled water, sorbitol, agar, glucose, and salt in a
heavy-bottom saucepan.
2. Bring to a boil.
3. Pour liquid over chocolate and emulsify.
4. Add gelatin and orange blossom water.
5. Strain through a chinois directly into metal frame 12 × 12 in. (30 × 30 cm)
placed on a silpat.
6. Allow to set at room temperature for 10 minutes; cover with plastic wrap
touching the surface of the ganache.
7. Refrigerate for 4 hours.
8. Cut into desired shape.
Carrageenan Recipes
Olive Oil Gel
Yield: 14.2 oz (405 g)
Portions: 14
Yield Description: 14 portions at 1 oz (28.3 g)
Extra Virgin Olive Oil 7.05 oz 200 g
Iota Carageenan 0.18 oz 5g
Procedure
1. Bring distilled water to a boil.
2. Whisk in iota carageenan slowly.
3. Using an immersion blender, add oil to water mixture. This must be done on a
low speed to maintain the emulsion.
4. Pour into silicone molds and refrigerate until set.
Peanut Butter Panna Cotta

Portions: 10
Yield Description: 10 portions at 3 oz (85 g)
Milk 9.5 oz 270 g
Peanut Butter 3.5 oz 100 g
Vanilla Bean Paste 0.35 oz 10 g
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Iota Carageenan 0.14 oz 4g
Procedure
1. Combine milk, vanilla paste, sugar, and salt in a blender.
2. While blender is running, add iota carageenan.
3. In a saucepan, combine milk mixture with the cream and bring to a boil.
4. Use an immersion blender to incorporate peanut butter.
5. Mold immediately and place in the refrigerator for 2 hours.
Chocolate Gel
Portions: 17
64% Chocolate 8.82 oz 250 g
Sugar 2.1 oz 60 g
Iota Carageenan 0.028 oz 0.8 g
Kappa Carageenan 0.028 oz 0.8 g
Procedure
1. Bring cream to a simmer.
2. Pour over chocolate, mix to emulsify the ganache.
3. Using an immersion blender, add iota carageenan and kappa carageenan to

distilled water.
4. Heat the water mixture to a boil.
5. Combine water mixture with ganache.
6. Mold into metal rings and refrigerate until set.
Gellan Recipes
Passion Fruit Cubes
Yield: 1 lb 2.9 oz (539 g)
Portions: 49
Yield description: 49 portions at 0.4 oz (11 g)
Passion Fruit Purée 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Sugar 0.53 oz 15 g
Gellan, Hi-Acyl 0.07 oz 2g
Gellan, Low-Acyl 0.07 oz 2g
Procedure
1. Combine both hi-acyl and low-acyl gellans and sugar.
2. Heat purée to 115°F (45°C).
3. Whisk in sugar and gellan mixture; bring to a boil.
4. Add lemon juice.
5. Pour into mold and refrigerate for 2 hours.
6. Cut into desired shapes.
Reduced Sugar Strawberry Jam

Portions: 1
IQF Strawberries 1 lb 0.87 oz 450 g

Sugar 10.05 oz 285 g
Gellan, Hi-Acyl 0.088 oz 2.5 g
Citric Acid Solution 0.088 oz 2.5 g
Note: Citric acid solution is equal parts citric acid and water.
Procedure
1. Pulse frozen strawberries in a food processor to break into smaller pieces.
2. Combine sugar and hi-acyl gellan.
3. Whisk sugar and gellan mixture into distilled water.
4. Add the fruit and bring the mixture to a boil for 2 minutes while stirring.
5. Remove from heat, place in mason jars, and seal.
Yogurt Sphere
Yield: 14.1 oz (400 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 28 spheres at 0.5 oz (14 g)
Yogurt Sphere
Yogurt 14.1 oz 400 g
Milk As needed As needed
Yogurt Sphere Bath
Distilled Water 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Gellan, Low-Acyl 0.79 oz 2.25 g
Sodium Hexametaphosphate 0.0088 oz 0.25 g
Note: The amount of milk will vary, depending on the type of yogurt used. A thicker Greek
yogurt will require more milk than a standard yogurt. The goal is to create a fluid that will
flow when the sphere is broken.
Procedure
1. Adjust consistency of the yogurt using milk. If the yogurt is too stiff, the finished
spheres will not flow. The thinner the consistency of the yogurt, the better the
flow.
2. Dissolve sodium hexametaphosphate in distilled water, then add low-acyl

gellan.
3. Using a teaspoon, place a spoon of the yogurt mixture into the yogurt sphere
bath.
4. Allow the yogurt to remain in the yogurt sphere bath for 2 minutes.
5. Remove the yogurt and rinse in cold water.
6. Hold in a simple syrup bath (p. 109) for service.
Orange Veil
Yield: 8.8 oz (227 g)
Portions: 1
Orange Juice 5.29 oz 150 g
Sugar 1.76 oz 50 g
Gellan, Low-Acyl 0.035 oz 1g
Gellan, Hi-Acyl 0.035 oz 1g
Vanilla Bean, split and scraped 2 each 2 each
Procedure
1. Combine dry ingredients.
2. Combine dry ingredients, distilled water, and orange juice in a saucepan using
a whisk.
3. Warm ¼ sheet pan in the oven. The pan does not need to be hot. Warming the
pan helps to ensure a thin veil when casting.
4. Bring the mixture to a boil and pour onto the warm ¼ sheet pan.
5. Refrigerate for 2 hours; cut into desired shapes.
Lecithin Recipe
Passion Fruit Foam
Yield: 1 lb 3.4 oz (601.5 g)
Portions: 1
Yield Description: 85 portions at 0.25 oz (7 g)
Passion Fruit Purée 7.94 oz 225 g 37.4
Distilled Water 7.94 oz 275 g 45.7
Sugar 3.53 oz 100 g 16.6
Lecithin 0.053 oz 1.5 g 0.3
Procedure
1. Combine purée, distilled water, and sugar with an immersion blender.
2. Continue mixing with the immersion blender and sprinkle lecithin into the center
of the container.
3. Once all lecithin is incorporated, begin lifting immersion blender.
4. After forming the foam, allow it to rest for 3 to 5 minutes (this will create a more
stable foam).
5. Use a spoon to apply the foam to the dessert.
Methylcellulose Recipes
Crispy Raspberry Foam
Yield: 7 oz (200 g)
Portions: 14
Raspberry Water, recipe on page 97 2.47 oz 70 g
Sugar 5.29 oz 150 g
Methylcellulose 0.56 oz 16 g
Procedure
1. Combine distilled water, raspberry water, and sugar in a bowl.
2. Whisk in methylcellulose.
3. Immediately transfer the mixture to a mixer fitted with a whip.
4. Whip on high speed to create the foam, which resembles a stiff meringue when
done.
5. Spread on a silpat-lined sheet pan 0.75 in. (2 cm) thick.
6. Place in a 150°F (65°C) oven for 12 hours or until completely dry.

8. Break into desired size pieces.
Hot Ice Cream

Yield: 1 lb 0.9 oz (487 g)
Portions: 16
Yield description: 16 scoops at 1 oz (28 g)
Hot Ice Cream Base
Cream Cheese 7.05 oz 200 g
Butter 1.76 oz 50 g
Sugar 3.53 oz 100 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Methylcellulose 0.52 oz 15 g
Hot Ice Cream Warming Bath
Sugar 8.82 oz 250 g
Procedure
1. In a blender, combine cream cheese, butter, sugar, salt, vanilla bean seeds,
and salt.
2. Whisk methylcellulose into water and add to blender while running.
3. Refrigerate the base for 12 hours.
4. Combine distilled water, sugar, and vanilla bean.
5. Heat to dissolve.
6. Reserve for hot ice cream at a temperature of 193°F (90°C).
7. Scoop the Hot Ice Cream base with a #30 portioner.
8. Submerge the scoop into the Hot Ice Cream Warming Bath for 30 seconds.
This will set the outside of the hot ice cream, to help hold its shape.
9. Release the hot ice cream into the warming bath and cook for an additional 2
minutes.
10. Remove with a perforated spoon and serve.
Pectin Recipes
Pectin Fruit Gelee
Yield: 12 oz (343 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 at 12 oz (343 g)
Fruit Purée 8.8 oz 250 g
Glucose 1.94 oz 55 g
Pectin NH 0.12 oz 3.5 g
Sugar 1.23 oz 35 g
Procedure
1. Combine pectin and sugar.
2. Warm the purée and glucose.
3. While whisking the purée mixture and add in the sugar/pectin mixture.
4. Bring to a boil.
5. Pour into mold and freeze.
Nut Tuille
Yield: 1 lb 1.8 oz (506.5 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 32 tuilles at 0.5 oz (14 g)
Sugar 5.29 oz 150 g
Butter 4.41 oz 125 g
Yellow Pectin 0.05 oz 1.5 g
Almonds, sliced 5.29 oz 150 g
Pecans, chopped 1.06 oz 30 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and yellow pectin.
2. Place the butter and glucose in a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat to melt.
3. Add the sugar/pectin mixture to the sauce pan and bring to a boil.
4. Add the nuts to the mixture and refrigerate.
5. Roll the mixture between two pieces of parchment paper to ⅛ in. (3 mm).
6. Remove the top piece of paper and bake at 375°F (190°C) until golden brown.
7. Cut into desired shape.
Apricot Glaze
Yield: 1 lb 8.4 oz (782 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 7.05 oz 200 g
Pectin NH 0.78 oz 22 g
Water 14.11 oz 400 g
Apricot Purée 0.35 oz 100 g
Note: If glaze is not thick enough, continue boiling for an additional 1 to 2 minutes. If too
thick, add water to achieve desired consistency.
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and pectin.
2. In a heavy-bottom saucepan, combine the water, apricot purée, and glucose.
3. While whisking the water mixture, add pectin/sugar mixture and boil for 10
minutes.
4. Add lemon juice and strain through a chinois.
5. Store in refrigerator.
Clear Glaze
Yield: 1 lb 11.7 oz (787 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 7.05 oz 200 g
Water 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Vanilla Beans, used 2 each 2 each
Orange Zest 0.11 oz 3g
Note: If glaze is not thick enough, continue boiling for an additional 1 to 2 minutes. If too
thick, add water to achieve desired consistency.
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and pectin.
2. In a heavy-bottom saucepan combine the water, glucose, zest, and vanilla
bean.
3. While whisking the water mixture, add pectin/sugar mixture and boil for 10
minutes.
4. Add lemon juice and strain through a chinois.
Sodium Alginate Recipes

Coffee Caviar (spherification)
Yield: 1 lb 1.7 oz (502.5 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 lb 1.7 oz (502.5)
Yield description: 1 at 1 lb 1.7 oz (502.5)
Coffee Caviar
Coffee 1 lb 1.63 oz 500 g
Sodium Alginate 0.088 oz 2.5 g
Caviar Setting Bath
Calcium Chloride 0.088 oz 2.5 g
Procedure
1. Combine coffee with sodium alginate using an immersion blender; allow to set
for 15 minutes.
2. Combine calcium chloride with distilled water, using a whisk.
3. Using a dropper, deposit small drops of the coffee caviar solution into the caviar
setting bath.
4. After 30 seconds, remove the coffee caviar and rinse with cold water.
1. Drop the coffee solution into the setting bath (step 3)
2. Remove the caviar (step 4)
3. Finished caviar
FIGURE 4.4a–c
Mango Sphere (reverse spherification)

Yield: 8.6 oz (245 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 16 spheres at 0.5 oz (14 g)
Mango Sphere
Mango Purée 8.47 oz 240 g
Calcium Gluconate 0.18 oz 5g
Alginate Bath
Sugar 1.76 oz 50 g
Sodium Alginate 0.18 oz 5g
Simple Syrup Bath
Sugar 14.11 oz 400 g
Note: The purée used in the sphere can be thickened slightly with a small amount of
xanthan gum. This will vary, depending on the selected purée or juice.
Procedure
1. Combine calcium gluconate with mango purée.
2. Deposit mango purée into desired shape flexipan and freeze.
3. Combine sodium alginate and sugar.
4. While slowly whisking distilled water, stir in algin mixture.
5. Allow this to set for 15 minutes and release any bubbles formed during mixing.
6. Combine distilled water and sugar to make the simple syrup bath.
7. Boil to dissolve sugar and cool on an ice bath.
8. Submerge frozen purée mixture into alginate bath for 30 seconds.
9. Carefully transfer the spherified mango from the alginate bath to a bowl with
cold water to rinse.
10. After rinsing, the spheres can be held in a simple syrup bath.
1. Deposit purée into a mold (step 2)
2. Place frozen purée mixture into alginate bath (step 8)
3. Demonstrating the liquid center of the sphere (left); the finished sphere
is on the right
FIGURE 4.5a–c
Thin Film
Yield: 8.8 oz (254 g)
Portions: 4
Yield description: 4 at 2 oz (56 g)
Thin Film
Apple Juice 7.05 oz 200 g
Sodium Alginate 0.14 oz 4g
Sugar 1.76 oz 50 g
Thin Film Spraying Solution

Calcium Lactate 0.35 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and align.
2. Using an immersion blender, combine the sugar/sodium alginate mixture and
apple juice. Allow any bubbles to dissipate before use.
3. Combine calcium lactate and distilled water with whisk and place in a spray
bottle.
4. Pour a thin layer of the apple juice mixture onto a plate.
5. Spray the thin film spraying solution mixture over the plate.
6. Allow 5 minutes for the thin film to set.
7. Microwave in 5-second intervals to evaporate the extra spray.
Tapioca Maltodextrin Recipes

Dry Caramel
Yield: 9.3 oz (265 g)
Portions: 1
Caramel
Sugar 2.10 oz 60 g
Butter 0.56 oz 16 g
Dry Caramel Powder
Caramel 7.41 oz 210 g
Tapioca Maltodextrin 2.30 oz 65 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar, glucose, cream, and butter.
2. Over medium heat, cook to 257°F (125°C).
3. Pour onto a silpat and cool completely.
4. Break up caramel into small pieces.

5. Combine broken caramel and tapioca maltodextrin in food processor.
6. Mix until caramel mixture is absorbed by tapioca maltodextrin.
Nutella Powder
Yield: 7 oz (200 g)
Portions: 28
Nutella 4.23 oz 120 g
Procedure
1. Combine Nutella and tapioca maltodextrin in a food processor.
2. Process until mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.
Brown Butter Nuggets

Yield: 11.6 oz (330 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: As desired
Yield description: 1 at 11.6 oz (330 g)*
Brown Butter 8.82 oz 250 g
Salt 0.18 oz 5g
*Note: There is no true way to control the size of the balls; they are random and meant to be
so. Maltodextrin is incredibly light, and even using an accurate microgram scale, the balls
would be difficult to weigh.
Procedure
1. Strain brown butter of all solids, keep warm.
2. Place tapioca maltodextrin in a food processor.
3. Turn on the food processor and stream in brown butter.
4. When a paste forms stop adding the butter.
5. Using your hands, form the paste into small balls.

6. Place on a silpat-lined sheet pan and bake at 375°F (190°C) for 5 minutes.
7. After cooling, store in an airtight container.
Xanthan Recipes
Clear Strawberry Sauce
Yield: 10.9 oz (310.7 g)
Portions: 20
Strawberry Water, recipe on p. 98 8.11 oz 230 g
Sugar 2.82 oz 80 g
Xanthan Gum 0.025 oz 0.7 g
Procedure
1. Combine xanthan and sugar.
2. Whisk into strawberry water.
3. Allow sauce to rest overnight to remove any bubbles.
Fruit Sauce
Yield: 11.6 oz (330.2 g)
Portions: 23
Fruit Purée 10.58 oz 300 g
Trimoline 1.06 oz 30 g
Note: This sauce does not need to be cooked and maintains the fresh flavor of the fruit.
Procedure
1. Combine purée, xanthan, and trimoline with immersion blender.
Carbonated Coco
Yield: 9.9 oz (281 g)
Portions: 6
Yield Description: 6 portions at 1.5 oz (42 g)
Coconut Water 7.05 oz 200 g
Coconut Rum 1.06 oz 30 g
Amaretto 0.71 oz 20 g
Sugar 1.06 oz 30 g
Xanthan Gum 0.035 oz 1g
Note: After charging the ISI siphon with carbon dioxide, the container is under high
pressure. Be sure to release all pressure before attempting to open the canister.
Procedure
1. Combine coconut water, coconut rum, amaretto, and sugar with an immersion
blender.
2. While immersion blender is running, incorporate xanthan gum.
3. Place mixture into an ISI siphon.
4. Charge twice with carbon dioxide cartridges, shaking between each addition.
5. Dispense Coco-Cola into glasses and serve immediately.
Gluten-Free Flour Replacer

Yield: 4 lb 7.2 oz (2020 g)
Portions: 1
Yield Description: 1 at 4 lb 7.2 oz (2020 g)
Potato Starch 1 lb 8.69 oz 700 g
Tapioca Starch 15.87 oz 450 g
White Rice Flour 15.87 oz 450 g
Brown Rice Flour 7.05 oz 200 g
Nonfat Milk Powder 7.05 oz 200 g

Xanthan Gum 0.71 oz 20 g
Note: This formula can be used in place of flour in many recipes. Some slight modifications
to the recipe may be necessary, such as increasing leaveners.
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a food processor and mix until combined.
2. Store covered at room temperature.
Summary
Many hydrocolloids are used in small percentages in the recipe. Great care must
be taken to accurately scale all ingredients. Follow the procedures included with
the recipes. When making adjustments to the recipes, be sure to test carefully, as
changes in ingredients can impact the ability of the hydrocolloid to gel. An
understanding of basic pastry techniques, ingredients, and procedure are
necessary to produce successful results.
Key Terms
Hydrocolloids
Foam
Bromelain
Blooming
Thermoreversible
Hysteresis
Spherification
Phospholipid
Encapsulation
Reverse spherification

1. How can pH affect spherification?
2. What does thermoreversible mean?
3. Discuss the difference between low-acyl and high-acyl gellan.
4. What is the enzyme in tropical fruits that destroys gelatin?
Creams and Mousses Page 1 of 37
CHAPTER 5
Creams and Mousses
In 1755, French writer Menon described a drink containing chocolate, boiling water,
and beaten egg as a favorite of King Louis XV. This is the earliest record of a
mousse-like dessert being served. Technology and understanding of ingredients
have changed a great deal in the last 400 years. Today, pastry chefs continue to
build on these classical desserts and strive to impress their guests with their
creations.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Identify the temperatures at which egg proteins coagulate.
2. Prepare baked and stirred custards.
3. Explain the difference between a Bavarian, diplomat, mousse, and
Chiboust.
4. Describe the three components of a mousse.
5. Differentiate between a pastry cream and crème anglaise.
6. Demonstrate how to temper gelatin for a warm and cold process.
Custard
Custards are one of the fundamental building blocks used in every kitchen. A
simple crème anglaise can be used as a sauce on a plated dessert, as a part of a
recipe to create a light and airy Bavarian, or baked with corn and leeks and served
warm as part of an entrée. Custards provide the pastry chef a base recipe that can
be flavored with spices, nuts, fruits, or chocolate; the possibilities are only limited
by the imagination of the chef. Just as flavors are added, new creations based on
these fundamental recipes are being invented.
The Custard Family Tree demonstrates how closely related all of the custards are.
By changing one ingredient, the ratio of ingredients or the process in which they
are mixed and cooked, a completely different product can be made. This chapter
focuses on the ingredients, base recipes, and processes used in making them to
further the understanding of the recipes. Custards are used in all aspects of the
pastry kitchen. Mastering them and the versatility they offer will allow pastry chefs
to expand their repertoire of recipes.
Custard is typically classified as a product thickened by the coagulation of egg
proteins. Eggs are an excellent way to set the custard, and can be used to adjust
the consistency of the finished product. Understanding the function of eggs in a
recipe and how they interact with the other ingredients in the recipe will provide
insight into how the recipe is executed. Additionally, having a working knowledge of
the ingredients will ensure that the final product will be executed correctly.
FIGURE 5.1 Custard Family Tree
Egg Tech
Eggs provide structure, color, and flavor to many types of custard. Eggs are a
commodity that is readily available to the chef in a variety of forms, providing ease
of use. In the pastry shop, the egg is used as a whole, as separate parts (white and
yolk), or together in a variety of ratios. By making adjustments to the part(s) of the
egg used in a formula, the final product can be changed.
An egg is composed of approximately 43% yolk and 57% egg white. The yolk is
50% water, 33% fat, and 16% protein; the remaining 1% is lecithin, iron, and color.
Fat in the yolk provides flavor and color to the recipes. It is used when the desired
set of the custard is creamy and soft. The white is 85% water; the remaining 15%
is albumin and ovalbumin. The egg white is typically not used alone in custard
recipes, but as part of the whole egg. Custards set with egg whites tend to be
firmer.
Egg proteins coagulate at different temperature ranges. At the lower end of the
temperature range the egg will begin to gel, and as the higher temperatures are
reached the white and yolk will no longer flow. Specific temperatures can be found
on the following Egg Coagulation Temperature table. Gentle cooking of custards
will help to achieve the proper texture in the final product. Baked custards should
be placed in a water bath in the oven at 300°F (149°C), while stirred custards
should be cooked over low to medium direct heat or in a double boiler. Reducing
the intensity of the heat during the cooking process allows proteins to coagulate at
a more even rate. Custards can be easily overcooked while being heated or
through carryover cooking.
FIGURE 5.2 Components of an egg
FIGURE 5.3 Properly baked crème brûlée (left) and overbaked crème brûlée
(right)
Carryover cooking is not a typical topic discussed in the pastry shop. Custards
can easily become overcooked if they remain in the pan they were cooked in for
any additional time. To avoid overcooked custards, proper mise en place should be
followed. Having all equipment in place and understanding the process will help to
prevent this from happening.
When eggs cook for too long or are cooked to a temperature that is too high,
syneresis occurs. Syneresis occurs when the liquid or moisture that is contained
with protein molecules is expelled. As the custard begins to overcoagulate, the
proteins begin to shrink as a result of overcooking and water is released. As the
water is released, the final texture becomes coarse and grainy. The resulting
curdled mixture develops a strong egg flavor as well as an unpleasant texture.
Egg Coagulation Temperatures
Low High
Egg Coagulation Temperatures
Low High
Whole Egg 140°F (60°C) 165°F (74°C)
Egg Yolk 149°F (65°C) 158°F (70°C)
Egg White 140°F (60°C) 149°F (65°C)
The temperatures in the Egg Coagulation Temperatures table are for eggs cooked
alone. Several factors, at the control of the pastry chef, can change the coagulation
temperature. As previously mentioned, the intensity of the heat and duration of
cooking play a critical role in the procedure. The concentration of egg product in
the recipe can change the coagulation temperature. The addition of ingredients to
the eggs can help to lower or raise the coagulation temperatures Adding sugar,
dairy products, or decreasing the amount of egg product results in an increased
temperature. Once dairy products are added, the coagulation temperature
increases to 175°F (80°C). Conversely, increasing the amount of egg in the recipe,
or by adding salt or acids result in coagulation occurring at a lower temperature.
When working with eggs, it is important to follow all local sanitation regulations.
Keep in mind that salmonella is killed instantly when subjected to temperatures of
165°F (74°C) or higher. As a general rule, custards should be kept for no longer
than 3 days under refrigeration.
Stirred Custards
Stirred custards provide a base for the pastry chef to work with; they can be used
independently or as a part of a recipe. They can be broken down into two
groups—those containing eggs and those without. One thing they all have in
common is that they are cooked on the stove. The final texture of these products is
a softer set than their baked counterparts. As the custard is stirred on the stove,
the eggs coagulate. The stirring helps to disconnect the coagulated particles, and
make sure the custard cooks evenly. It is recommended that these custards be
cooked in heavy-bottom stainless steel pans to prevent scorching.
1. Egg-based custards rely on coagulated egg proteins to create the texture of the
custard:
• Pastry cream
• Crème anglaise
• Curd
2. Non–egg-based custards do not contain any egg product and set with the
addition of gelatin, cornstarch, or agar.
• Cornstarch-based (blancmange)
• Gelatin-bound (panna cotta)
Egg-Based Custards
Eggs provide an excellent thickener for custards, adding to the smooth, creamy
richness associated with these products. There are some guidelines that can be
applied to all egg-based custards, regardless of the final product. Pans, whisks,
and bowls need to be stainless steel. Using aluminum pans will cause the custard
to become gray, due to the whisk scraping the pan and removing small amounts of
aluminum.
Cooking custards properly will help to produce the proper final consistency; key
steps make this easy to achieve. Before tempering, a small amount of the sugar is
added to the eggs, which begins denaturing the egg proteins in preparation of the
hot liquid that is to be added. Tempering is the process of gradually warming the
eggs with a hot liquid, and then returning the warmed egg mixture to saucepan to
continue cooking. Adding the eggs directly to the hot pan will cause them to curdle
immediately. Once the tempering process is completed, the custard is returned to
the heat. At this point, continue stirring the custard even after it is removed from
the heat source. This will prevent overcooking the custard; there is still sufficient
heat in the pan when it is removed from the heat to cause this. After cooking, all
stirred custards need to be strained.
FIGURE 5.4 When combining eggs and sugar, make sure to properly stir
the mixture. Otherwise, the sugar will begin to coagulate the egg proteins,
creating a coarse texture in the custard and reducing the thickening power
of the eggs.
Pastry Cream
Pastry cream is used on a daily basis in the pastry shop. It is made from milk, egg,
egg yolk, sugar, cornstarch, vanilla, and butter, one of the most delicious items and
also an interesting one. A variety of ingredients can be used to flavor pastry cream,
including vanilla, chocolate, liquor, nut pastes, and spices. Taking a look at the
pastry cream recipe, two things are clear: The eggs cannot be cooked over 185°F
(85°C), and the cornstarch must be boiled to 212°F (100°C) to cook out the starch.
How can this be?
There is a dual purpose to boiling the pastry cream. In order to produce a smooth,
creamy consistency with good mouthfeel and flavor, the starch must be boiled.
Additionally, eggs contain an enzyme called amylase. Amylase will reduce the
thickening power of the starch over time as it destroys the starch. By boiling the
cream, the amylase is neutralized.
Pastry Cream Method

1. Combine milk, first sugar, and scraped vanilla bean in a heavy-bottom
saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. In a stainless steel bowl, combine second sugar and cornstarch; mix to
disperse cornstarch in sugar.
3. Add eggs and egg yolks to cornstarch mixture; whisk to combine.
4. Carefully whisk half of the boiling milk into the egg mixture.
5. Continue the tempering process by returning the warmed egg mixture to
the saucepan.
6. Return the saucepan to the heat and bring pastry cream to a boil for 2
minutes while whisking constantly. At this point, the cream can be tasted to
ensure all the starch has been cooked out.
7. Remove from the heat and incorporate the butter.
8. Press the pastry cream through a tamis.
9. Place the finished pastry cream into a shallow pan and cover with plastic
wrap directly on the cream to prevent a skin from forming.
10. Place on an ice bath inside the refrigerator.
Crème Anglaise
Crème anglaise, also referred to as English cream, is used as a sauce, base for
Bavarian Cream, crémeux, and ice cream. It can be flavored in many ways similar
to pastry cream. One major difference must be remembered: Crème anglaise is not
boiled when cooking. The final temperature of the cooked crème anglaise is 175°F
(80°C). A properly cooked crème anglaise will have the correct viscosity due to
fully coagulating the egg proteins.
An overcooked cream will present a curdled texture and strong egg flavor.
Although this is not the desired final product, the cream can be returned to a
smooth consistency with an immersion blender or food processor. In most cases, it
is advised to cook the crème anglaise again, and carefully follow the procedure to
avoid overcooking.
Keep in mind that using low to medium heat and constantly stirring will evenly cook
the custard. A higher heat may bring the custard to the correct temperature quicker
but as a result chance of curdling increases. Additionally, the use of thermal
circulators and combi ovens provide another way to cook custards. These methods
provide a more controlled cooking process through closely monitored temperature,
ensuring that the cream is not overcooked.
Crème Anglaise Method

1. Combine milk, cream, and half the sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. Whisk remaining sugar and egg yolks in a stainless steel bowl.
3. Temper half of the boiling mixture into the egg yolk mixture.
4. Continue the tempering process by returning the warmed egg mixture to
the saucepan.
5. While stirring with a heat-resistant rubber spatula, return to a low to
medium heat and cook to 175°F (80°C).
6. Immediately strain through a chinois and place in an ice bath to cool.
Curd
Curds are intensely flavored custards that contain a large percentage of butter,
providing a smooth creamy texture. Typically, strong-flavored acidic fruits are used
in curds. They can include lemon, lime, orange, passion fruit, or mango. The strong
acidity of these fruits helps to balance out the large quantity of butter in the recipe.
Curd Method
1. Combine juice with half the amount of sugar in a saucepan and heat to a
boil.
2. Whisk remaining sugar with eggs.
3. Temper all of the boiling juice mixture with eggs.
4. Finish cooking the custard over a double boiler to a temperature of 175°F
(80°C).
5. Strain and cool the custard to a temperature of 96°F (36°C).
6. Add the softened butter.
7. Mix with an immersion blender on high for 5 minutes to completely emulsify
the curd.
8. Cover with plastic wrap; it's important that the plastic wrap makes contact
with the curd.
Non–Egg-Based Custards
While eggs contribute a great deal to custards, non–egg-based custards provide
another recipe in the repertoire of the pastry chef. The textures of these custards
are different from egg-based ones due to the fact they are set with gelatin,
cornstarch, or carrageenan (see Chapter 4). In addition to differing textures,
different flavors can be achieved. The richness of custard comes from the eggs;
color and flavor change from the eggs. Custards without the addition of eggs tend
to be white in color and have a stronger dairy flavor. They also tend to be lighter in
mouthfeel as a result of decreased fat in the recipe. Non–egg-based custards also
provide an alternative to customers with egg allergies or an increased sensitivity to

eggs.
Blancmange
Blancmange is a custard set using cornstarch, and in some cases, carrageenan is
used. The earliest record of blancmange was in the Middle Ages, and its origin is
difficult to locate. It was served to royalty during festive occasions, colored with
very intense colors. Served in today's restaurants, it would be left its original color
and garnished with colorful berries. The flavor of the blancmange is lightly sweet
with a mild dairy flavor.
Panna Cotta
The name translates from Italian to “cooked cream.” In recent years, panna cotta
has seen an increase in popularity on restaurant menus. It is a light dessert perfect
for summer, as a layer inside an entremets or on a buffet. Milk, cream, sugar,
vanilla bean, and gelatin are warmed just to dissolve the sugar and gelatin,
strained, and chilled in the refrigerator.
Baked Custards
There are many items used in the pastry shop that can be included under baked
custards: crème brûlèe, flan, bread pudding, and cheesecake. These items can
prove challenging in determining doneness, it is through practice and
understanding the process it can be simplified. Unlike stirred custards, baked
custards eggs coagulate in the oven. As the egg coagulates, a firmer texture is
created due to the fact they are not disturbed during coagulation.
Ingredients
Baked custards contain dairy products, egg, sugar, and flavorings. Some may
contain other items such as large quantities of bread in bread pudding. Changing
the ingredients will impact the consistency and flavor of the final product.
Crème brûlée is characterized by a soft, creamy texture. The use of heavy cream
and egg yolks are used to achieve this. Adjusting the recipe to include whole eggs
in place of some of the yolk will result in the crème brûlée having a firmer texture.
The additional egg white will produce a firmer setting custard. In the same recipe if
we remove a portion of the cream and replace it with milk, the final product will be
firmer. The crème brûlée may almost start to represent the texture of flan, having
the ability to be unmolded.
If the consistency of a custard is too firm or soft, refer to the Adjusting Custard
Consistency table below. Slight changes in the quantity or type of ingredient used
will change the final texture of the custard. Softening a custard can be done by
decreasing the amount of egg, changing the type of egg product to egg yolk, or
replacing milk with cream. The custard can be made firmer by increasing the
quantity of egg, replacing the egg in the recipe with whole eggs or egg whites, or
replacing heavy cream with milk. Slight changes in the ingredients will have a
significant impact on the final product. When testing new formulations, only change
one ingredient at a time. This will make it easier to identify what ingredient change
provided the correct final result.
Adjusting Custard Consistency
Softer Firmer
Decrease egg product Increase egg product
Egg Yolks Whole eggs
Heavy Cream Egg whites
Milk
Baking Procedure
Baked custards are delicate items that need the same care and attention that is
given to stirred custards. A gentle cooking process is used to be certain that the
custard is cooked evenly throughout. Baked custards should be baked at a
temperature no higher than 300°F (149°C) in a water bath. A larger-size container
may require a lower baking temperature. The water bath helps to insulate the
custard; this slows down the heat transfer and prevents the custard from
overcooking on the outer edges.
Tools available to the chef continue to improve, providing the pastry chef more
control to save time and produce a consistent product. A combi oven is an
excellent tool to assist in the baking of custards. These ovens are convection
ovens that can cook in a dry, moist, or combination method. Custards baked in a
combi oven can be baked faster and more evenly. A lower baking temperature and
a small amount of steam is used to help transfer the heat in the oven into the
custard. If using a combi oven to prepare baked custards, set the oven in combi
mode and reduce fan speed. Bake the custard in a water bath as you would in a
conventional oven at 250°F (121°C) and 20% steam with a reduced fan speed.
Testing for Doneness

Time can give us an estimate of when the custards will be done, but many other
factors play into time. The best way to check a custard is by sight or feel. When
using sight, consider how the heat transfers into the custard. The heat coagulates
the eggs from the edge of the pan or ramekin and works in toward the center.
A gentle tap on the side of the container will show how set the custard is. The
custard should wiggle slightly and stop, this is referred to as the wiggle test. A good
way to think about this is a calm swimming pool. If the custard is not set, it will
ripple in waves, similar to the way the water would move if a rock were thrown into
it. When performing the wiggle test, the custard may appear to be solid on the
edge and only ripple in the center. This indicates that the custard is baking and
only the center needs to cook.
In some instances, such as a cheesecake or bread pudding, the test can be
performed by touch or sight. By gently touching the cheesecake it should feel soft,
but firm. If the cake has a liquid-like movement when pressed, the center is not
baked. Use caution when testing using touch, as these products are hot. Sight is
the preferred method for testing, while touch can be helpful along with the visual.
Remember, during the baking process our ingredients undergo many changes.
Sugars become liquids and fats become more fluid, as the custard cools the fats
and sugars solidify and become firm again. A properly baked custard will still feel
soft to the touch.
Overbaked custards provide some signs that something went wrong. When
checking the custards, they should appear smooth. Bubbling along the edge and
not set in the middle is an indication that the oven temperature was too high or the
baking time was too long. The egg proteins are overcoagulated; the results will be
a curdled watery custard. Cheesecakes differ slightly; normally, boiling is not
noticed, as this custard is much thicker. The cheesecake will begin to rise as it
bakes due to the creation of steam inside the cake. When the cake cools and the
steam dissipates, the cake collapses. There is no structure inside the cake to hold
it up; this will give the cake a grainy, dry texture and large cracks across the top.
Types of Baked Custards

Crème Brûlée
Crème brûlée translates from French to “burnt cream.” Simple ingredients are
combined with careful preparation to create this famous creamy, rich custard. After
the custard is baked and cooled, a thin coating of sugar is placed on top and
burned under a broiled or with a torch. A warm, crispy, caramelized sugar layer on
top of a cold, creamy custard, providing textural and temperature contrasts in one
dish.
Preparing the crème brûlée custard is almost identical to the crème anglaise
method. In the crème brûlée method, the warmed cream is added to the eggs to
start the cooking process and help the custard to cook more evenly when it is
placed in the oven.
Crème Brûlée Method

1. Combine half the sugar with the heavy cream and scraped vanilla bean in a
heavy-bottom saucepan and heat to a boil.
2. Add remaining sugar to the egg yolks and whisk to combine.
3. Temper all of the boiling cream mixture into the egg yolks.
4. Strain through a chinois and fill ramekins.
5. Bake in a water bath 300°F (149°C).
Flan
Flan, also referred to as crème caramel, is a firmer custard baked with caramelized
sugar in the ramekin. The caramelized sugar adds color to the top of the custard
when it is unmolded, as well as producing a sauce as the caramel dissolves in the
ramekin. The traditional flavor of flan is vanilla. However, chocolate, spices, and
even fruit purées can be added to the custard to customize the flavor. Flan or a
closely related variety can be found in most every country throughout the world.
The use of evaporated milk and sweetened condensed milk in the formula
produces a style of flan that is traditional in Latin American countries. Some
formulas contain milk and sugar and produce an even firmer custard. In the case of
a milk-based flan formula, the sugar and caramel can be removed to produce a
savory custard or royale, which can be used to garnish consommé or an entrée.
Wet Caramel Method

1. Place water in saucepan; add sugar and corn syrup. Make sure the sugar is
in the water but do not stir. Stirring causes sugar crystals to form on the
side of the pan. If crystals do form, use a brush and cold water to clean the
sides of the pan.
2. Heat over high heat until sugar caramelizes.
3. Immediately shock the pan in an ice bath.
4. Pour caramel into ramekins and allow to cool completely.
Flan Method
1. Combine evaporated milk, sweetened condensed milk, eggs, and flavorings
in a bowl and mix until combined.
3. Fill ramekins in a hotel pan.
5. Store in refrigerator overnight.
6. Unmold for service.
Bread Pudding
Bread pudding is custard that many can identify with. Originally, it provided an
excellent way to use old bread that would be otherwise thrown away. In an effort to
find new ways to reinvent this classic dessert, pastry chefs have turned to using
croissants, Danish, and even donuts to add a twist to the familiar flavor. Other
ingredients such as chocolate chips, fruit, or toasted nuts can be used for
additional flavors and textures. Reducing the sugar and adding cheese, dried fruits,
vegetables, and even foie gras can be used to create savory applications for bread
pudding.
Bread Pudding Method

1. Combine milk, sugar, eggs, and flavorings.
3. Combine with bread.
4. Allow this mixture to rest for 4 hours under refrigeration, allowing the bread
to absorb the custard.
5. Fill containers and wrap in plastic wrap covered in foil; steam to a
temperature of 175°F (80°C).
6. Remove plastic wrap and bake at 400°F (205°C) for 7 to 10 minutes to
crisp top of pudding slightly.
Cheesecake
Cheesecake is found in bakeries and menus at restaurants around the world. In
the United States, cheesecake is made with cream cheese, in France it is be made
with fromage blanc, and ricotta is used in Italy. Each of these cheeses has a
distinct flavor and texture. The flavor of cheesecake is easily recognizable; it can
be served as simple as a slice of vanilla cheesecake or can be used as a layer in a
dessert.
Technique can be used to make a good cheesecake great. Room temperature
cream cheese mixes best. Avoiding lumps during mixing will also ensure a smooth
consistency. Lumps in the cheesecake will be noticeable once the cake is baked a
sliced, the lumps will not be mixed as evenly with the eggs. This will give them a
lighter color compared to the rest of the custard. Be sure to mix the custard on low
at all times to avoid incorporating air into the mix.
A dense, creamy cheesecake has an excellent mouthfeel. Additional air in the mix
creates steam during the baking process and causes the cheesecake to rise. As
the cake cools, the steam dissipates and the custard will shrink and possibly crack.
This lighter airy texture also makes it more difficult to determine when the
cheesecake is finished baking.
Cheesecake Method
1. Using a paddle attachment, mix cream cheese on low.
2. Add half the amount of sugar to the cream cheese.
3. Mix for 2 minutes and scrape the bowl and attachment.
4. Add remaining sugar mix for 2 more minutes and scrape.
5. Slowly add eggs, stopping to scrape the bowl three times while adding all
the eggs.
6. Fill pans and bake in a water bath 300°F (149°C) until done.
Note: If batter is lumpy, a food processor or immersion blender can be used.
Mousse and Creams

The light and airy texture of a mousse is in direct contrast to the dense, creamy
custards previously discussed. Building on a base recipe with the addition of an
ingredient such as whipped cream, or another recipe such as an Italian meringue,
simple pastry cream can be transformed into a diplomat cream or chiboust.
Bases
Bases are used as a starting point for assembling a mousse or cream. Crème
anglaise, pastry cream, ganache, curd, and fruit purée can all be used as a base.
These bases can be used alone or in a combination together. Ganache is an
example of this. A ganache is a fat-in-water emulsion created when a liquid is
combined with chocolate. In the most common form, ganache is cream and
chocolate; for some mousse bases, an anglaise-based or fruit purée ganache can
be used. More information can be found on ganache in Chapter 13, “Chocolate
Work.”
FIGURE 5.5 An emulsion is a fine dispersion of two or more ingredients

that under normal conditions do not mix. Emulsions can be either fat in
water or water in fat.
Aerators
The final texture of a mousse should be light and airy. This can be achieved
through the use of egg foams and whipped cream. Some applications use both,
while others use one. The aerators can impact the flavor, consistency, and stability
of the mousse.
Whipped Cream
The most basic form of chocolate mousse can be made with sweetened whipped
cream and chocolate. Whipped cream is the most common aerator and can be
found in most mousses and creams. When whipping cream, air is trapped between
fat particles. The optimal temperature for whipping cream is 40°F (5°C). Creams
with lower fat percentage whip best; 30% fat is ideal. Higher-fat creams can whip to
a stiffer consistency, but are more prone to overwhipping. The additional fat will
also reduce the intensity of flavors, as the fat coats the mouth.
Properly whipped cream is doubled in volume with soft peaks. As the cream is
whipped, the fat particles grow into larger clusters. Proceeding to whip the cream
past stiff peaks will cause more of the fat particles to bind together; extremely
overwhipped cream will result in a complete separation of fat from liquid.
FIGURE 5.6 Underwhipped cream (left), properly whipped cream (center),

and overwhipped cream (right)
Continuing to whip the cream will produce a stiffer cream with no additional gain in
volume. Cream that has very stiff peaks will be difficult to fold into the mousse, and
it runs the risk of overmixing during the making of the mousse. Properly whipped
cream will give the mousse a stable volume and correct final texture. If cream is
whipped and left to sit before use, the fat and liquid will begin to separate. The
heavier liquid will settle on the bottom, with the lighter fat on top. Be sure to whisk
for a short time to make sure the cream is whipped properly before using.
Egg Foams
Egg foams are used in a similar way as cream to lighten the mousse. The part of
the egg used and how we treat the eggs will impact the final texture. Eggs can add
flavor, richness, volume, and texture to a mousse. Common egg foams found in
mousse and creams are French meringue, Italian meringue, and pâte à bombe. A
meringue is a mixture of egg white and sugar. Ovalbumin and albumin are proteins
found in egg whites that are whipped and can be stabilized to maintain the volume
they have gained during whipping. Ovalbumin is the protein in egg whites that
coagulates when heated, making the meringue resistant to collapsing and creating
a crispy texture. Albumin is the protein found in egg whites that creates a stable
foam when whipped.
Mousse prepared using a meringue will have a lighter consistency compared to
using the pâte à bombe. The albumin in the egg white allows the meringue to
increase up to eight times the original volume. However, an uncooked meringue is
extremely fragile. Cooking the meringue, creating a Swiss or Italian meringue, will
produce a foam that is more stable and slightly denser due to the increased
amount of sugar. Pâte à bombe will roughly double in size. Pâte à bombe is a
mixture of whipped egg yolks and cooked sugar. The sugar is cooked to 248°F
(120°C) and added to the whipped yolks, transforming the mixture into a creamy,
airy mass.
These three foams not only affect texture and flavor but also how the mousse is
going to be used and can also play a factor in which egg foam or recipe should be
used. French meringue has the ability to add lightness to a mousse, but it is not a
stable foam, nor has it been cooked. Salmonella and other microorganisms may be
present in the uncooked egg whites. It is recommended to use pasteurized egg
whites when making a French meringue that will not undergo any additional
cooking to reduce this risk. Italian meringue and pâte à bombe are both fully
cooked and provide the most stable forms of egg foams.
Italian meringue is mostly used in Chiboust and fruit mousses. The meringue
provides lightness to the mousse, and gives a creamy mouthfeel. Fruit purées have
a light flavor that is enhanced by the meringue. Pâte à bombe is occasionally used
in fruit mousse. The egg yolks contribute a flavor and richness that does not work
well with some lighter flavored fruits. Fruit purées also have a delicate color that
the pâte à bombe may cover up or wash out. Some stronger flavored fruit mousses
may benefit from the use of a pâte à bombe.
Pâte à bombe is typically used in chocolate mousse, the richness and flavor pair
well with the chocolate. Color is not an issue due to the deep color of the
chocolate. In some instances, a French meringue can be used in a chocolate
mousse to lighten the mousse slightly. Due to the French meringue's lack of
stability, it is best suited in applications where the mousse would be served in a
glass or other dish.
Stabilizers
Mousses and creams are fragile recipes that need some sort of a stabilizer to
maintain their structure. Whether they are served in a container or as cake on a
buffet, the fat and waters inside must be stabilized. This can be done with the use
of cocoa butter, gelatin, or agar. Additional information on gelatin and agar can be
found in Chapter 4.
Tempering Gelatin
1. Bloom gelatin.
• Sheet gelatin is bloomed in ice water for 15 minutes.
• Powder gelatin is bloomed in liquid specified in recipe, if no liquid is
specified, then use 4 times the weight of the gelatin in water for 5
minutes.
2. Dissolve gelatin.
• Warm process such as Bavarian cream—add gelatin to warm anglaise.
• Cold process such as fruit mousse—warm over a double boiler.
3. Add 10% of mousse mixture to dissolved gelatin.
4. Warm to 100–105°F (38–40°C).
5. Return warmed gelatin mixture to mousse.
Whether the mousse is stabilized with cocoa butter or gelatin there are visible
signs that show the process was done correctly. The mousse should appear free of
lumps and smooth. Chocolate mousse should be smooth, shiny, and elastic after
the chocolate is added. This is evidence that the cocoa butter was the proper
temperature and has not crystallized during the mixing process. When working with
stabilizers, special attention must be paid to the temperatures of these products,
the quantity in the recipe and the process of tempering them into the recipe.
FIGURE 5.7 Proper incorporated gelatin (left); improper incorporation

(right)
Mousse Methods
Pâte à Bombe Method
1. Whip egg yolks on high speed for 5 minutes.
2. Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and cook to 248°F (120°C).
3. Carefully pour sugar syrup into whipping yolks and allow to cool.
4. Whip cream to soft peaks.
5. Fold whipped cream and pâte à bombe together.
6. Melt chocolate to 110°F (43°C).
7. Fold chocolate into whipped cream mixture.
1. Adding the sugar to the water
2. Sugar boiling in the pan (note that the sides of the pan are clean)
3. Pan that has been stirred (crystals form on the side of the pan)
4. Washing the side of the pan with a clean brush and cold water
FIGURE 5.8a–d
FIGURE 5.9 Final dark chocolate mousse with chocolate incorporated:

too cool (left), just right (center), too warm (right)
Anglaise-Based Method
1. Prepare a crème anglaise and strain into half-melted chocolate.
2. Add purée or liquor to ganache and cool to 105°F (41°C).
4. Fold cream into ganache.
Fruit Mousse Method

1. Bloom gelatin.
2. Prepare an Italian meringue, page 266.
4. Fold cream, purée, and meringue together.
5. Temper gelatin into mousse.
Bavarian Method
1. Bloom gelatin.
2. Prepare a crème anglaise; add gelatin to dissolve.
4. Cool crème anglaise to 75° to 85°F (24° to 29°C).
5. Fold in whipped cream.
Chiboust Method
1. Bloom gelatin.
2. Prepare a pastry cream.
3. Add gelatin to warm pastry cream base; cover and reserve.
4. Prepare an Italian meringue.
5. When meringue is cooled, fold into pastry cream base.
Diplomat Method
1. Prepare a pastry cream and cool completely.
2. Bloom gelatin.
4. Soften pastry cream and fold in whipped cream.

5. Temper gelatin using the cold process.
Troubleshooting for Custards, Mousses, and Creams
Stirred custard is slightly 1. Heat of the stove was too high; reduce heat on
curdled. stove and cook slower.
2. Thermometer is not calibrated; recalibrate
thermometer.
Pastry cream appears Cooked over too high of a heat or mixture boiled too
curdled and greasy. long after eggs were added; reduce heat and cook
less.
Baked custard is curdled 1. Custard is overcooked; reduce oven

on the edges. temperature.
2. Water bath was not high enough or evaporated
during baking; make sure that the water bath is
high enough.
Only have a convection The convection fan has dried out the top of the
oven to work with and the custard. Bake the custard in a hotel pan covered in
custard is forming a skin. foil; this will prevent the skin from forming.
Bavarian looks curdled The mixture was overmixed; the gelatin structure
and broken after folding that formed was broken by mixing.
in cream.
Chocolate mousse has a 1. Chocolate was not at the correct temperature

gritty mouthfeel. before folding in the cream. Melted chocolate
needs to be warmed to temperature specified in
the recipe.
2. Chocolate was not folded into the cream mixture
fast enough. Incorporate the cream into the
chocolate faster or increase chocolate
temperature by a few degrees.
Gelatin stabilized mousse 1. The gelatin powder was not completely

has lumps. hydrated; bloom gelatin properly.
2. The gelatin was not completely melted; dissolve
gelatin properly.
3. The temperature of gelatin and 10% mousse
base was not heated high enough; increase
temperature by 2 degrees above the
temperature in the recipe.
Recipes
Chocolate Mousse (Pâte à Bombe)
Portions: 13
Egg Yolks 5 oz 143 g
Sugar 5 oz 143 g
Water 1.3 oz 38 g
Dark Chocolate 58%, melted 1 lb 0.9 oz 480 g
Procedure
1. Pâte à bombe method on page 132.
Variation
Milk or White Chocolate Mousse

Milk and white chocolate can be substituted in place of the dark chocolate.
Milk Chocolate or White Chocolate 33%, melted 1 lb 9.2 oz 715 g
Chocolate Mousse (Anglaise Based)

Portions: 16
Milk 6.7 oz 190 g
Sugar 1.4 oz 40 g

Bittersweet Chocolate 1 lb 2 oz 510 g
Rum 1.8 oz 50 g
Note: The rum can be replaced with fruit purée or other liquor.
Procedure
1. Anglaise-based method, on page 133.
Fruit Mousse
Portions: 12
Fruit Purée (see note) 1 lb 454 g
Egg Whites 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 12 oz 340 g
Water 3 oz 85 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 1 lb 454 g
Note: Use any fruit purées, excluding orange, blood orange, lemon, lime, or passion fruit.
Procedure
1. Fruit mousse method on page 133.
White Chocolate Coconut Mousse

Yield: 2 lb 15 oz (1274 g)
Portions: 11–19
Coconut Purée 10.6 oz 300 g

Powder Gelatin 0.5 oz 15 g
Water #1, cold 2.1 oz 60 g
Egg Yolk 3.6 oz 102 g
Sugar 3.6 oz 102 g
Water #2 1 oz 27 g
Procedure
1. Bloom powder gelatin in cold water #1.
2. Make a pâte à bombe with egg yolks, sugar, and water #2.
3. Heat coconut purée and combine with white chocolate to make a ganache.
4. Add gelatin mixture to warm ganache and emulsify; reserve ganache at 90°F
(32°C).
5. Fold cooled pâte à bombe and whipped heavy cream together.
6. Fold ganache mixture into whipped cream mixture.
Citrus Mousse
Yield: 4 lb 4.3 oz (1944 g)
Portions: 17
Curd (p. 139) 1 lb 3.8 oz 560 g
Sugar 9 oz 256 g
Water 2.3 oz 64 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 2 lb 3 oz 1000 g
Note: Orange, blood orange, passion fruit, lemon or lime curd can be used in this recipe.
Procedure
1. Fruit mousse method on page 133.
Vanilla Mousse
Yield: 4 lb 3.5 oz (1900 g)
Portions: 16
Sugar 12.3 oz 350 g
Water 3.5 oz 100 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 2 lb 8.6 oz 1150 g
Note: Cook pâte à bombe syrup with vanilla beans; remove before adding sugar to the
whipping yolks.
Procedure
1. Make a pâte à bombe with sugar, water, vanilla beans, and egg yolk.
2. Fold cooled pâte à bombe and whipped cream together.
3. Temper in gelatin.
Passion Fruit Chiboust

Yield: 2 lb 13.8 oz (1300 g)
Portions: 11
Passion Fruit Purée 7 oz 200 g
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Cornstarch 1.8 oz 50 g

Sugar 10.6 oz 300 g
Water 2.8 oz 80 g
Note: The Italian meringue in this recipe has a lower percentage of sugar, which can lead to
overwhipping the meringue. To prevent this after the sugar is added turn the mixer to the
lowest setting to cool the meringue.
Procedure
1. Chiboust method on page 133.
Variation
Vanilla Chiboust
Replace passion fruit purée with milk and add vanilla bean.
Milk 7 oz 200 g
Diplomat Cream
Yield: 2 lb 2.5 oz (979 g)
Portions: 8
Pastry Cream (p. 140) 1 lb 454 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 1 lb 454 g
Gelatin Powder 0.5 oz 14 g
Water, cold 2 oz 57 g
Procedure
1. Diplomat method on page 133.
Praline Mousseline
Portions: 26

Pastry Cream (p. 140) 1 lb 454 g
Praline Paste 12 oz 340 g
Butter, soft 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Note: When the cold pastry cream is added to butter, it will cause the mixture to break.
Continue mixing until the ingredients come back together.
Procedure
1. Whip butter and praline paste with a paddle attachment.
2. Slowly add pastry cream.
3. Mix until mixture is light and fluffy.
Vanilla Bavarian
Portions: 12
Milk 9.2 oz 260 g
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 1 lb 3 oz 540 g
Note: To make a fruit-flavored Bavarian, replace the milk with purée. Add the purée after the
crème anglaise has been cooked to avoid altering the flavor of the purée.
Procedure
1. Bavarian method on page 133.
2. Pour into molds and freeze.
Citrus Curd
Portions: 12
Eggs 5.8 oz 165 g
Sugar 6.7 oz 190 g
Citrus juice or purée 4.7 oz 132 g
Butter, soft 8.7 oz 247 g
Note: Mango, passion fruit, lemon, lime, or orange can be used to flavor the curd.
Procedure
1. Curd method on page 124.
Buttermilk Panna Cotta

Yield: 2 lb 7.5 oz (1119 g)
Portions: 13
Heavy Cream 1 lb 454 g
Granulated Sugar 6 oz 170 g
Buttermilk 15 oz 425 g
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in water.
2. Combine heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla bean in a saucepan and heat to
dissolve sugar.
3. Add gelatin mixture, and cool to 98°F (36°C).
4. Add buttermilk and strain through a chinois.
5. Pour into molds or glasses and refrigerate for 4 hours.
Flan
Portions: 13
Flan Custard
Evaporated Milk 1 lb 10 oz 737 g
Sweetened Condensed Milk 14 oz 396 g
Eggs 12 oz 340 g
Vanilla Paste 0.5 oz 14 g
Flan Caramel
Sugar 1 lb 454 g
Corn Syrup 2 oz 56 g
Water 4 oz 113 g
Procedure
1. Prepare Flan Caramel using the wet caramel method, p. 127.
2. Pour the caramel into 13 ramekins.
3. Prepare the Flan Custard using the flan method on p. 127.
Crème Brûlée
Portions: 13
Sugar 8 oz 226 g
Procedure
1. Crème brûlée method on page 127.
Pastry Cream
Portions: 12
Milk 1 lb 454 g
Sugar #1 2 oz 56 g
Egg Yolks 1.25 oz 35.4 g
Cornstarch 1.25 oz 35.4 g
Sugar #2 2 oz 56 g
Butter 1 oz 28 g
Procedure
1. Pastry cream method on page 123.
Vanilla Crémeux
Portions: 9
Milk 7 oz 198 g
Cream 7 oz 198 g
Sugar 2.2 oz 62 g

Gelatin, bloomed 3.5 sheets 3.5 sheets
Procedure
1. Crème anglaise method on page 124.
2. Add bloomed gelatin before straining.
Eggless White Chocolate Creméux

Portions: 16
Milk 7 oz 200 g
Lemon Zest 0.4 oz 10 g
Glucose 0.4 oz 10 g
Gelatin, bloomed 3 each 3 each
White Chocolate 12 oz 340 g
Procedure
1. Melt white chocolate and add glucose.
2. Combine milk and zest; bring to a simmer.
3. Add milk to chocolate mixture.
4. Add heavy cream and emulsify with immersion blender.
5. Strain through a chinois and refrigerate for 6 hours before using.
Coconut Rice Pudding

Portions: 14
Jasmine Rice 6 oz 170 g

Milk 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Coconut Purée 8 oz 227 g
Eggs 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 4 oz 113 g
Heavy Cream 8 oz 227 g
Procedure
1. Combine milk and purée in a heavy-bottom saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. Add jasmine rice and cover.
3. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 30 minutes, check rice for doneness.
4. Combine eggs and sugar.
5. Temper rice mixture into eggs, be careful to not break up the rice.
6. Return to a low-medium heat and cook to 175°F (80°C).
7. Add heavy cream.
8. Place in an ice bath to cool.
Ganache
Yield: 1 lb 9.5 oz (724 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 lb 9.5 oz (724 g)
Semisweet Chocolate 58% 12.75 oz 362 g
Procedure
1. Bring heavy cream to a boil.
2. Add the chocolate in four additions; stir between additions to create an
emulsion.
3. Emulsify ganache with an immersion blender.
4. Place plastic wrap directly on the surface of the ganache and refrigerate until
needed.
Soft Ganache
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 lb 11 oz (766 g)
Milk 4 oz 114 g
Butter 1 oz 28 g
Semisweet Chocolate 58% 10 oz 284 g
Procedure
1. Combine milk and heavy cream in a heavy-bottom saucepan and bring to a
boil.
2. Pour mixture over chocolate and stir to combine.
3. Add butter and emulsify with immersion blender.
5. Store refrigerated for 24 hours.
6. Whip until ganache forms stiff peaks.
Crème Anglaise
Portions: 48
Milk 8 oz 227 g
Sugar 4 oz 113 g
Procedure
1. Crème anglaise method on page 124.
Chocolate Pot de Crème

Portions: 13
Milk 2 lb 907 g
Chocolate 64% 6.5 oz 184 g
Sugar 6.5 oz 184 g
Procedure
1. Combine half the sugar with the milk, place in a heavy-bottom saucepan, and
heat to a boil.
2. Add remaining sugar to egg yolks mixture.
3. Temper all of the boiling milk mixture into the egg yolks.
4. Slowly add the hot custard to the chocolate.
5. Emulsify with an immersion blender.
6. Strain through a chinois and fill ramekins.
8. Store in the refrigerator.
Clafoutis
Yield: 2 lb 0.5 oz (979 g)
Portions: One 9-in. fluted tart pan
Yield description: One 9-in. fluted tart pan at 2 lb 0.5 oz (979 g)
Cream 8 oz 227 g
Milk 8 oz 227 g
Sugar 6 oz 170 g
Kirsch 4 oz 114 g
Eggs 5 oz 142 g
Cake Flour 3 oz 85 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and cake flour.
2. Combine cream, milk, eggs, kirsch, and vanilla paste.
3. Mix wet ingredients with dry ingredients.
4. Bake at 350°F (175°C).
Cheesecake
Portions: One 10-in. cake, 12 portions
Yield description: One 10-in. cake at 3 lb 1 oz (1389 g)
Cream Cheese 2 lb 907 g
Sugar 8 oz 227 g
Eggs 8 oz 227 g
Vanilla Paste 1 oz 28 g
Procedure
1. Cheesecake method on page 128.
Key Terms
Coagulation
Carryover cooking
Syneresis
Tempering
Royale
Ganache
Emulsion
Egg foams
Ovalbumin
Albumin
Pâte à bombe

1. Describe the process for making a Chiboust.
2. Determine the proper cooking technique for a stirred custard that contains
cornstarch.
3. What is the role of gelatin in a mousse?
4. Explain the process of tempering gelatin by using the cold process.
5. Discuss the advantages and disadvantages of using a French meringue in a
mousse.
Frozen Desserts Page 1 of 45
CHAPTER 6
Frozen Desserts
Nothing says comfort food like ice cream. In the United States, yearly consumption
of frozen dessert products is just less than six gallons per person. Ice cream is a
comfort food, something almost everyone can relate to. Building on this already-
existing familiarity with frozen desserts gives the pastry chef a way to introduce
new products to the customer. It is not as simple as mixing milk, cream, sugar,
eggs, and vanilla anymore.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Explain the function of sugars in frozen desserts.
2. Calculate overrun percentages of ice cream and sorbet.
3. Calculate the AFP of ice creams.
4. Balance sorbet and ice cream recipes.
5. Make a variety of churned and still frozen desserts.
Ingredients
Frozen desserts are created from basic ingredients: air, water, sugar, eggs, dairy
products, and flavorings. In each group of ingredients, there are different types of
products available, as well as different procedures to execute the recipe. Changing
the ingredients, ratio, or sequence of the recipe will yield completely different
results. All of these ingredients must be carefully balanced and the procedures
followed to create a final product that demonstrates the craftsmanship of the pastry
chef.
Air
Frozen desserts rely on air to create the light, creamy texture of a parfait, and the
dense, soft texture of gelato. The amount of air incorporated in these items can
create the correct mouthfeel. Frozen desserts fall under two main categories.
Churned frozen desserts, such as ice cream, gelato, and sorbet, incorporate air
during the freezing process. Still frozen desserts, such as parfaits and soufflé
glacé, are aerated and then frozen. A frozen dessert that does not have any air
incorporated will freeze into a solid block of ice that will be difficult to serve and eat.
In ice cream manufacturing, overrun is used to describe the amount of air
incorporated into the final product. Understanding the ingredient functions in the
recipe and how batch freezers work will help produce the correct amount of
overrun. Sorbets typically have an overrun of 30% to 40% while ice cream is 50%
to 100%. The higher the percentage of overrun, the more airy the product
becomes; Ice cream can almost take on an undesirable frozen mousse
consistency if too much air is incorporated. High overrun is associated with
economy ice creams. Calculating the overrun can be performed using the following
formula:
(Weight of 1L of mix before freezing−Weight of 1L of mix after freezing)
Weight of 1L of mix before freezing × 100 = % Overrun
When calculating the overrun, the first step is to weigh the unchurned ice cream
base mixture in a container. It is best to use a volume measure container; quarts or
pints are adequate. Fill the container and weigh the ice cream base; for this
example, we will use a 1 L measure.
For example:
Weight of 1L of ice cream base before freezing = 1200 g
Next, process the base in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's
instructions. Fill the machine to the recommended optimal level and process until
the correct frozen consistency is achieved. Fill the same container with the churned
ice cream. Weigh this container; the weight should be less than the original weight
of the unchurned base.
Weight of 1L after freezing = 820 g
With this information, the overrun can be calculated using the formula above.
(1200−820)1200 × 100 = 3801200 × 100 = 0.3166 × 100 = 31.7%
Be sure to use a container large enough to provide an accurately measurable
sample. A measuring cup would be too small—too large of a container and it will
not be filled to the top.
All ice cream machines vary a great deal in the way they operate, how quickly they
churn, and how quickly they freeze. This will play a role in the final product; be sure
to consult the user manual and follow all instructions as directed in the manual.
Overfilling or underfilling an ice cream machine will change the amount of air the
machine can incorporate into the mixture, or take too long to freeze. Recipes
containing cream that are left in the machine too long can cause the cream to be
overwhipped. Fat will separate from the base and create a coarse texture with a
grainy mouthfeel. Undermixed bases will be grainy as a result of the water not
being completely frozen while churning, as well as reduced final volume. After the
ice cream is extracted from the machine, it is still very soft and needs to harden in
the freezer. A blast chiller is the preferred method, with temperatures as low as
–40°F (–40°C) preventing any air from escaping as the ice cream or sorbet
continues freezing.
Water
Water impacts everything in the pastry shop. Oftentimes, it is overlooked as an
ingredient because it is everywhere. Remember, a large percentage of a frozen
dessert is water, yet water does not add any flavor. Free water is water that is not
bound to any other part of the ingredients; this can lead to large ice crystals
forming during the freezing process or in storage. Incorporating dry solids, sugar,
glucose powder, dextrose, stabilizers, and emulsifiers into ice cream and sorbet
helps to reduce the amount of free water. The water binds to the solids, creating a
dense texture in the frozen dessert and assists in incorporating air during the
churning process. The amount of nonfat dry solids in an ice cream should be in
24% to 32% and in sorbet 31% to 36%.
The balance of the recipe and use of ingredients not only changes the flavor, but
also creates the proper texture. Water freezes at 32°F (0°C), but by adding other
ingredients to a recipe, the freezing temperature can be reduced. Sugars and
alcohol can also be added to reduce the temperature. When water is frozen in a
solid block, large ice crystals form, and it would be difficult to eat. To prevent this,
aerated eggs and cream are added to still frozen desserts, allowing the air to
separate the water and lighten the mixture. Churned products are placed in an ice
cream machine, where the intense agitation during the freezing process creates
small ice crystals and incorporates air.
Sugars
Sugars provide many functions to a recipe: They allow ice cream to develop the
proper texture, prevent sorbet from freezing too hard, and add flavor. In order to
understand the function sugars perform, an evaluation of the recipe must be

conducted. The most common association with sugars is sweetness. While this is
true, think about what else the sugar is doing in the recipe.
In Chapter 5, sugar was used to denature egg proteins when preparing custards.
Many frozen desserts are custard based and utilize the same cooking methods
introduced in Chapter 5. Sugars also play a function in the final product by
controlling the freezing temperature, maintaining the texture, preventing
crystallization, and improving flavor. Not having enough sugars in a recipe creates
a product that freezes too hard or can become grainy. At the opposite end of the
spectrum, having excessive amounts of sugar in a recipe yields a product that is
too soft, in addition to being too sweet.
Many types of sugars are available to the pastry chef, each having different
properties and effects on the final product. Some common sugars found in the
production of frozen desserts are granulated sugar (sucrose), lactose, honey,
dextrose, glucose powder, glucose syrup, inverted sugar, and dextrose. Each of
these contributes a different sweetening power (SP), with sugar always being
100%, antifreezing power (AFP), and percentage of solids.
The Power of Sugar chart below provides a list of sugars commonly used in the
production of frozen desserts. Sugars can be used interchangeably in a recipe.
Understanding the difference between sugars will help to select the amount and
type correctly. When adjusting the sugars in the recipe, do not change the total
quantity. If the recipe calls for 100 grams of sugar, adjustments can be made inside
this total quantity. An example of this will follow in Guidelines to Formulating a
Neutral Ice Cream Base.
The SP can easily be noted by tasting the base; if it's too sweet or not sweet
enough, adjustments can be easily made by decreasing or increasing the amount
of sugar. Understanding that the recipe is balanced based on the percentage of
sugar, it would be better to adjust the type of sugar in the recipe. A high AFP
means that the final product requires a lower temperature to freeze. Exchanging
honey for granulated sugar not only impacts the sweetness, it affects the AFP. If
honey is added, the ice cream would be noticeably softer than ice cream made
with granulated sugar served at the same temperature. Invert sugar and dextrose
will impact the AFP the same way. Balancing the FP and AFP will give the ice
cream the correct flavor and texture.
Examples of Sugar Ratios in Ice Cream Base Using 1000 g of Total Sugar
Served at 14°F (10°C)
Base #1 Base #2 Base #3
Sugar 1000 g 900 g 250 g
Glucose Powder 100 g
Honey 750 g
Traditionally, ice cream bases were made using granulated sugar, and a decent
base can be produced using granulated sugar. The first example uses only
granulated sugar. The second example incorporates glucose powder into the
original quantity of 1000 grams. Base #2 will be slightly less sweet than Base #1
and will have a slightly denser texture due to the incorporation of the glucose
powder. Base #3 uses honey. Honey is sweeter than sugar and the AFP is almost
double. This product will be softer, sweeter, and have a different texture, almost
gummy.
Solids in the sugars also play an important role in the production of ice cream. The
more solids in the ice cream means there is less water. Solids absorb the water
and interfere with the formation of large ice crystals in the finished ice cream,
assisting in producing a smooth texture. The percentage of solids in ice cream
should be no more than 32%. Exceeding this will cause the ice cream to have a
coarse mouthfeel. Incorporating solids into the recipe will produce an ice cream
that does not melt quickly when plated for service.
The amount of total solids in a recipe hinders the formation of ice crystals. A high
AFP means the final product requires a lower temperature to freeze, and holding
these products at a higher temperature will cause them to melt. Balancing the SP
and AFP will give the frozen dessert the correct flavor and texture.
Power of Sugar
Sugars Sweetening Anti-Freezing Total

Power (SP) Power (AFP) Solids %
Granulated Sugar 100 1 100

(sucrose)
Honey 130 1.9 75
Lactose 16 1 100
Invert Sugar 130 1.9 78
Dextrose 75 1.9 92
Glucose Powder 40 50 0.9 95

DE
Glucose Syrup 28 50 0.5 78

DE
DE is an abbreviation for Dextrose Equivalent. A higher DE will mean an increase

in the SP and AFP. Glucose powder and syrup are available at different DE. The
Power of Sugar table represents the most commonly available DE for these
products. Be sure to check the DE with the distributor if it is not listed. All recipes in
this book will utilize the products specified in the Power of Sugar table.
The AFP can be used to determine the serving temperature of the ice cream. The
ideal temperature for ice cream and sorbet is 14°F (–10°C). An AFP between 241
and 260 will give the correct consistency at this temperature. The sugars in the
recipe can be adjusted to achieve the needed AFP. For every 20 points the AFP
increases, the temperature is reduced by 1.8°F (1°C). To calculate the total AFP of
an ingredient, multiply the weight of the ingredient by the AFP and add each of the
ingredients to get the total for the recipe. The AFP is based on 2.2 lb (1 kg) of ice
cream base.
Ingredient weight × AFP = Total AFP
Calculating Antifreezing Point of French Vanilla Ice Cream
Sugars Quantity AFP Total AFP
Granulated Sugar 140 g 1 140
Glucose Powder 32 g 0.9 28.8
MSNF (51.3% lactose) 50 g × 0.513 = 25.65 g 1 25.65
Milk (4.8% lactose) 500 g × 0.048 = 24 g 1 24
Cream 35% (3.5% lactose) 175 g × 0.035 = 6.125 g 1 6.125
Total 224.575
Note: To calculate the AFP accurately, the lactose must be included. Refer to the
Lactose in Dairy Products table below. Multiply the total weight of the ingredient by
the percentage to determine the amount of lactose by ingredient.
The total AFP for the Vanilla Ice Cream is 225 (rounded up), which would equate to
an ideal serving temperature of 15.8°F (–9°C). Sugars can be adjusted to correct
the difference. Granulated sugar could be increased to 156 g (and thus, the total
AFP for the sugar would be 156), and the total AFP for all ingredients would be
adjusted to 241. It is important to remember when writing recipes that it is a
process—there are many more variables to an ice cream recipe. The formulas can
help to get you close to an accurate result; the best way to check a recipe is to
compare the finished results with what was calculated on paper.
Types of Sweeteners
Granulated Sugar
Granulated sugar is produced from either sugar cane or sugar beets. It is one of
the most readily available sugars, and can come in a variety of forms, granulated
and extra fine. Granulated sugar is used as the base for determining the SP and
AFP of all other sugars.
Honey
Honey is one of the sweetest sugars available, and has one advantage over the
other sugars. Through the use of honey, the flavor of the sweetener can be
changed. Orange blossom, lavender, buckwheat, clover, acacia, or chestnut nectar
can all be used in the production of honey. These nectars flavor the honey and can
enhance the flavor of a recipe. Honey has a high AFP, meaning it will not freeze as
hard as the other sugars; care must be taken to not just replace the same amount
of honey for another sugar in the recipe.
Lactose
Lactose is found in products made from milk. It is naturally occurring in milk and
cream, which are used in frozen desserts. Some recipes use additional milk
powders to add flavor as well as absorb water. In order to accurately calculate the
serving temperature and adjust recipes, lactose cannot be ignored. Lactose is not
used as a sweetener in ice cream, however; it is a part of milk products. It does
add sweetness and contributes to the overall AFP calculations.
Lactose in Dairy Products
Product Lactose
Whole Milk 4.8%
Skim Milk 5.2%
Light Whipping Cream 30% 3.9%
Whipping Cream 35% 3.5%
Heavy Whipping Cream 40% 3.0%
Butter 0.9%
Milk Solids Nonfat (MSNF) 51.3%
Glucose
Glucose, glucose powder, and dextrose are products closely related to each other,
and they all contain dextrose. Dextrose can be made from many types of starches,
including corn, potatoes, rice, barley, tapioca, and wheat. These starches are then
converted into simple sugars. These products are referred to by their dextrose
equivalent (DE).
Pure dextrose has a DE of 100, which means that all of the starch has been fully
converted to dextrose. The DE of glucose syrup and glucose powder indicates that
only the specified percentage, represented by the DE, of starch has been
converted to dextrose. Glucose syrup 28 DE and glucose powder 40 DE are the
most commonly used in the production of frozen desserts. Glucose powder is
glucose that has had 95% of the water removed.
Glucose syrup can provide a desirable texture to frozen desserts, but its use is
somewhat limited due to the large percentage of water remaining. The advantage
of using glucose powder and dextrose is that they do not add water to the recipe
and they prevent crystallization by inverting the sugar. While these three products
will be used in this chapter, it is important to remember that careful attention must
be paid when scaling the recipes and to use the correct product—while they are
similar, each has a different SP.
Invert Sugar
Invert sugar, also known by the brand name Trimoline, provides many of the
same functions as glucose: It prevents crystallization, adds sweetness, and softens
ice cream. Glucose syrup is a clear, thick liquid and invert sugar is an opaque,
thick gel. Invert sugar contains an emulsifier, which helps to stabilize a recipe. It
normally is not used in ice cream and sorbet production, as it leads to a gummy
texture if too much is used. It can be useful in recipes that contain chocolate or
praline paste to soften the texture and emulsify additional fats in the recipe.
Sugar Density
Sugar plays a critical role in the development and production of frozen desserts.
Brix is a measure of the amount of dissolved solids in solution; the strength of the
solution is reported as degrees Brix, or °Brix. Determining the Brix of a sugar
solution using a refractometer provides a more precise way to measure the
concentration, and adjustments can be made. In some instances, a thermometer
can be used to determine the amount of sugar. However, this is not as accurate a
method. A sugar solution that is 20 grams sugar in 100 grams of water is written as
20° Brix. Calculations can be made to determine the amount of sugar in a recipe
with fairly accurate results. However, during the heating process evaporation of
water will take place, causing a change to the balance of the recipe.
Degrees Brix Ranges for Frozen Desserts
Type °Brix
Ice Cream 16–23
Sorbet 28–31
Granité 16–19
Sugar concentration can be checked through the use of a refractometer. A

refractometer measures how light passes through a liquid—the more sugar in a
solution, the more difficult it is for the light to pass through. An optical refractometer
passes light through the solution and a prism. Figure 6.1 on the left is what would
be seen with distilled water and Figure 6.2 shows what a 23° Brix would look like.
FIGURE 6.1 Optical refractometer image showing 0° Brix
FIGURE 6.2 Optical refractometer image showing 23° Brix

Optical refractometers work best with natural light and sugar solutions; color found
in purées or milk solids can give an inaccurate reading. To get a more accurate
reading, use a digital refractometer; while they carry a higher cost, the accuracy is
much better.
Sugar is one of the many factors needed to consider when evaluating a frozen
dessert. The ingredients in a recipe interact with each other and with the sugar,
which explains the ranges of °Brix. Not only is the final texture of the product
important, flavor must be considered. In a sorbet recipe the acidity of the fruit will
change the amount of sugar needed to provide sweetness; higher acidity fruits will
require more sugar. In regards to ice cream, the fat content will impact flavor. A
higher percentage of fat will require a greater quantity of sugar to create
sweetness. The ranges throughout this chapter provide a guideline to allow the
formulation of new recipes and the ability to make adjustments to existing recipes.
Eggs
The egg is an incredible and versatile ingredient used in many pastry recipes. They
are used in both churned and still frozen dessert preparations. As discussed in
Chapter 5, eggs can be used to create volume and lightness in a mousse or the
thickened creamy texture of a crème anglaise.
Egg Yolk Components
Water Fat Protein Lecithin Total Solids
44% 30% 18% 8% 56%
Many churned frozen desserts rely on egg yolks in the custard to provide color,
flavor, fat, thickening power, and emulsification. The white of the egg is rarely used
in ice cream production due to the large amount of water contained in it. As a
result, they provide no additional emulsifying properties. Egg whites also contain
bacteria. It is recommended to use pasteurized egg whites if they are used in ice
cream custard. Sanitation is critical when working with eggs and ice cream. The
custard bases used for ice cream production need to be cooked to 175°F (80°C).
At this point, the custard will be cooked to a nappe consistency and the custard is
the proper thickness and is pasteurized.
Pasteurization is the process of heating food to a specific temperature for a set

amount of time to reduce the number of pathogens. There are several different
methods of pasteurization. High temperature/Short time (HTST) is the process
used in this book. In compliance with U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
Guidelines, HTST requires that ice cream bases be heated to 175°F (80°C) for 25
seconds or 180°F (82°C) for 15 seconds. After pasteurization, these products must
be cooled quickly; an ice bath is recommended.
Still frozen desserts can use the yolk, white, or whole egg. The usage of eggs in
still frozen desserts is very similar to the way they are used in making a mousse. In
fact, the methods and ingredients are identical. What differs is the ratio; an
increase in quantity of sugar or alcohol keeps the final texture soft when served
from the freezer.
The fat contained in the egg yolk creates a rich, dense foam as well as adding
color to the final product. Additional fat also can reduce the strength of flavors, due
to the fat coating the mouth. Milder flavors, such as banana, would benefit from the
use of a meringue. Meringues add lightness to still frozen desserts and do not
impart any color to the final product.
Can I use pasteurized egg products for this recipe? This question is asked all too
often, and the answer is yes. Unless a recipe specifies “fresh” next to the
ingredient, pasteurized products can be substituted. Not only do they save labor,
they are excellent products and at times can be better than their fresh
counterparts. Still frozen desserts benefit from the use of pasteurized eggs;
potential pathogens are destroyed through the pasteurization process.
Dairy Products
Vanilla is by far the most popular ice cream flavor. It is a common flavor but it is
much more than vanilla. It's a combination of textures, sweetness, temperature,
and flavor. While vanilla is the “flavor,” there is a considerable amount of flavor that
comes from the dairy used in the recipe. A simple recipe for vanilla ice cream might
contain milk and cream, while others may have added milk solids. There are many
good vanilla ice creams available, yet by understanding the important role dairy
products play in the recipe, a great version could be made.
Dairy products, just like sugars and eggs, are used together to develop the flavor
and texture desired in the final product. Understanding what is in dairy products will
help to provide insight as to their function in the recipe.
Solids in Dairy Products
Product Total Fat Nonfat Water

Solids Solids Solids
Whole Milk 12% 3.6% 8.4% 88%
Skim Milk 9.2% 0% 9.2% 91%
Light Whipping Cream 30% 36.5% 30% 6.5% 63.5%
Whipping Cream 35% 41% 35% 6% 59%
Heavy Whipping Cream 45.5% 40% 5.5% 54.5%

40%
Solids in Dairy Products
Product Total Fat Nonfat Water

Solids Solids Solids
Butter 84% 82% 2% 16%
Milk Solids Nonfat (MSNF) 97% 0% 97% 3%
Dairy products are composed of fat solids, nonfat solids, and water. The fat and
nonfat solids are what give milk its flavor and body. Skim milk and whole milk look
somewhat similar. When comparing taste and texture, the skim milk is thinner and
has less flavor. Whole milk is the preferred milk used in the pastry kitchen; unless a
recipe specifies skim milk, use whole milk. MSNF are combined with milk to
increase the flavor and amount of solids in the recipe and absorb free water.
MSNF are used due to their low cost, shelf life, water-binding capability, and ability
to stabilize the emulsion of the custard. Whole milk powders are available—due to
the inclusion of fat, they have a shorter shelf life of 6 months compared to MSNF
shelf life of 3 years. The emulsion is stabilized due to the high protein content of
the MSNF and its ability to distribute the fat in the recipe; egg yolks also assist the
emulsion. A broken emulsion in an ice cream cannot be visualized as with
mayonnaise; it occurs on a minuscule level. The results of broken emulsion may
present in a grainy texture or ice cream that melts too quickly. Stabilizing the
emulsion and proper pasteurization contribute to the final texture of the ice cream.
Including too much MSNF will cause the ice cream to take on a grainy texture. The
final product will take on a sandy texture due to the lactose crystalizing. Lactose
crystals form a triangular shape and feel sharp on the tongue.
Just as the sugar in the recipe needs to be balanced, so does the amount of fat.
Too high of a fat content will make the ice cream extremely heavy and mask the
flavors. In addition, it makes the ice cream prone to overmixing during the churning
process. Overmixing causes the fat to separate out from the cream in the same
way that it happens to whipped cream. When brought to low temperatures, the fat
is very firm and coarse; if this occurs, the ice cream should be discarded. To
prevent this from happening, it is recommended to use a 35% fat cream. If further
reduction in fat is needed, milk can be added.
Emulsifiers and Stabilizers

Creating and maintaining an emulsion in ice cream is an important factor in
developing the proper texture of the final product. Emulsifiers assist in creating and
holding the emulsion. There are two kinds of emulsifiers: diglycerides and
monosterates. Although there is lecithin in egg yolks, it is not sufficient to fully
emulsify the mixture. During the maturation phase of the ice cream making
process. the emulsifiers “attach” to fat and water and permanently bond them.
There is no need to use emulsifiers in sorbets, since they do not contain any dairy.
Sorbet benefits from the use of stabilizers. These stabilizers are made from plant-
based materials: guar gum, xanthan gum, and iota carrageenan. The same
benefits can be achieved in sorbets as in ice cream, with the only difference being
that there are no emulsifiers in sorbet base due to no added fats.
Using emulsifiers and stabilizers offers five advantages:
1. Emulsifies fat and water

2. Better overrun
3. Improved texture
4. Absorbs free water to prevent crystals from forming (100% solids)
5. Stabilizes finished product from melting quickly after serving
There are many excellent stabilizers and emulsifiers commercially available to the
pastry chef. Purchasing these products already done saves time, provides a
consistent product, and can include multiple stabilizers and emulsifiers to yield
excellent results. Care must be taken when scaling these products; they should not
exceed 1% of the total recipe. During the pasteurization of the mix, the stabilizers
hydrate and continue developing during the maturation process. Adding too much
stabilizer creates a gummy texture after churning. Egg yolks contain lecithin, a
natural emulsifier. Depending on the quantity of yolks in the recipe, the amount of
stabilizer can be reduced or omitted completely. Slight adjustments may be needed
based on the brand used—check with the supplier for recommended quantities.
Some chefs prefer to not add these products, while others add them to every
recipe. There is no right or wrong answer, although there has been a great deal of
discussion about the use of stabilizers and emulsifiers over the years. They are
natural products extracted from plant-based materials (seeds, seaweed, or plants)
—they are not chemicals. One question constantly asked: Are emulsifiers and
stabilizers necessary to use in a recipe that includes them? The simple answer is
no. Recipes can be made without them and the recipe will work, but the results
may be slightly different.
Churned Frozen Desserts

Churned frozen desserts go by many names, but they all have one thing in
common. During the freezing process, they are churned mechanically or, in some
instances, by hand. Agitation prevents large ice crystals from forming and
incorporates air. Freezing these products without churning would result in a solid
block of ice that would be extremely difficult to eat. There are many different styles
of churned frozen desserts, which can be broken down into two main groups: dairy
and nondairy.
Ice Cream Machines

Batch Freezer
Batch freezers are used to churn ice cream, sorbet, gelato, and sherbet. The
machine contains a compressor that freezes a metal cylinder. The base mixture is
added to the machine in a liquid form. Although the base is being frozen, the
dasher spins quickly, incorporating air into the mixture and forming small ice
crystals.
When producing churned frozen desserts using a batch freezer, refer to the user's
manual associated with the machine. The time needed to freeze an ice cream or
sorbet base will vary. This depends on the makeup of the recipe, the amount of
mixture in the machine, and even how often the machine is used. A machine filled
to maximum capacity will take longer to freeze than a machine that is only half full.
The first batch of ice cream that is run will take longer than the following batches.
This is due to the ice cream cylinder being cooled from the previous batch. Be sure
to carefully observe the ice cream or sorbet during the churning process to ensure
the proper consistency of the final product.
FIGURE 6.3 Batch Freezer

(Photo courtesy of Advanced Gourmet Equipment & Design)
Paco Jet
A Paco Jet uses a high-speed blade to transform frozen bases into ice cream,
sorbet, gelato, and sherbet. The main difference between a Paco Jet and batch
freezer is that the base is frozen before processing. A Paco Jet can also be used to
produce nut pastes.
FIGURE 6.4 Sorbet: an unprocessed beaker (left); a processed beaker

(right)
Dairy-Based Churned Frozen Desserts

Ice Cream
Ice cream is a term that can be used to describe several different styles of ice
cream. The FDA regulates what can be called ice cream. The regulations state that
the product must contain a minimum 10% milk fat and 10% milk solids. If the milk
fat percentage is higher than 10%, the total of the fat and solids must be a
minimum 20%. Egg yolks can also be added to ice cream at a maximum amount of
1.4%. An ice cream that has no egg yolk added is often referred to as Philadelphia-
style ice cream, or crème glacée.
French Style Ice Cream

Most ice creams produced in restaurants and pastry shops are custard based or
French-style ice cream. What sets it apart from ice cream is the addition of egg
yolks. A minimum of 1.4% egg yolk is required. Although there is additional cost
associated with using egg yolks, the ice cream benefits through additional
richness, flavor, texture, and color, as well as increased stability during storage.
FIGURE 6.5 Front of ice cream machine extruding properly churned ice
cream
FIGURE 6.6 Ice cream machine extruding overchurned ice cream
Gelato
Gelato is Italian for ice cream. In the United States, it is used in many
establishments to refer to anything, including ice cream. The FDA does not
regulate the use of this term. However, gelato has a different texture and flavor
than ice creams or frozen custards. A gelato recipe is similar to a custard-based
ice cream. It contains egg yolk, lower milk fat percentage (3% to 10%), and higher
sugar percentage (up to 24%). Gelato has less overrun, 30% to 40%, and is served
at a slightly warmer temperature than ice cream. Less overrun and additional sugar
help to keep the gelato soft and creamy in light of the fact the fat content is lower.
Sherbet
Sherbet base is composed of sugar, water, flavoring, and dairy ingredients. Milk fat
percentage in sherbet is 1% to 2%. Chocolate, coffee, tea, alcohol, and fruit can all
be used to flavor sherbet. Since sherbet typically contains fruit purée, it is often
confused with sorbet. In addition, the name is often misspelled (or mispronounced)
as sherbert, adding further confusion.
Frozen Yogurt
Frozen yogurt is certainly not a new concept; it is most often associated with soft-
serve yogurt shops that continue to grow in popularity. In the pastry shop, frozen
yogurt is a unique product that does not fit into any of the other categories. It is
made from yogurt, sugars, flavorings, and sometimes additional milk. Increased
access to Greek yogurt has given this product an increased flavor profile in
comparison to the traditional yogurts found in the United States. Greek yogurt is
thicker and more flavorful, and can provide an enjoyable tart flavor.
Method
The process of pasteurizing an ice cream recipe is just as important as the balance
of the recipe. Through this process, the ice cream mix is heated to a high
temperature to kill any pathogenic microorganisms, dissolve solids, and emulsify
the mixture. Final texture, reduced overrun, and length of service time can all be
negatively affected by not carefully monitoring this process.
There are many recipes with different pasteurization procedures; the following is
the process that will be used in many of the recipes included in this chapter.
Ice Cream Base Process

1. Combine the stabilizer with 10 times its weight in granulated sugar.
2. Combine the egg yolks with some of the sugar.
3. Combine the milk, cream, and MSNF; continue stirring to make sure the
solids do not burn on the bottom of the pan.
4. Temper the egg yolks into the mixture, followed by the stabilizer mixture
and remaining sugars (granulated sugar, glucose powder, dextrose,
honey).
5. Continue cooking over low heat to 175°F (80°C) for 15 seconds.
6. Quickly cool the mixture to 40°F (4°C).
7. Allow the mixture to mature under refrigeration for 6 to 12 hours. This step
allows the dry ingredients to fully hydrate and fat globules to crystallize and
collect around air cells, increasing the ability to trap air during churning.
8. Using an immersion blender, homogenize the mixture.
9. Freeze in an ice cream machine following the manufacturer's instructions.
10. Extract ice cream from the machine into prefrozen containers; cover and
freeze to –22°F (–30°C) to stabilize the ice cream. Store at this temperature
until needed for service.
11. Temper to 10°F (–12°C) for service.
Guidelines for Formulating Basic Ice Cream Custard

Each ingredient has a function in the recipe: sweetening, providing solids,
removing free water—all these come together to create the perfect texture. The
recipe is not based solely on one ingredient and the function of that ingredient, but
how all the ingredients interact with each other. Understanding the function of the
ingredients and the guidelines for formulating a basic custard will provide a starting
point for modifying existing recipes or creating a new customized product. Some
ingredients provide a range, while others have set percentages to follow.
Ingredient Percentage Ranges for a Neutral Ice Cream Base for 1000 g
Yield
Ingredients % Range Grams
Fat 6–10% 80–100 g
Sugars (includes max 4% glucose powder) 17–22% 170–220 g
Egg Yolk 3–10% 30–100 g
Stabilizer 0.1–1%
MSNF 0–10% 0–100 g
To manufacture 1000 grams of base, identify the percentages of each ingredient

needed. For this recipe the following percentages were selected:
Fat 10%
Sugar 20%
Egg Yolk 5%
Stabilizer 0.5%
MSNF 5%
The first step in the process is calculating the stabilizer, egg yolks, and MSNF. (For
this recipe, we will be using a premade stabilizer.) To do this, multiply each of
these ingredients by 1000 grams.
Stabilizer 1000 g × 0.005 = 5 grams
Egg yolk 1000 g × 0.05 = 50 grams
MSNF 1000 g × 0.05 = 50 grams
Sugars are calculated in the same way. However, we have different sugars that
can be used and provide different sweetness, textures, and AFP. For this recipe,
we will use the maximum 4% glucose powder, with the remaining 16% being
granulated sugar. It is recommended that you calculate the AFP for this recipe,
once all ingredients are finalized, prior to testing in the kitchen.
Glucose 1000 g × 0.04 = 40 grams
Granulated Sugar 1000 g × 0.16 = 160 grams
One more step and the recipe will be ready for testing. The fat percentage for the
recipe was determined at the beginning of the process to be 10%. Now that all the
other ingredients are calculated, the remaining weight of the recipe would be
composed from the milk and the whipping cream. The total for the sweeteners, egg
yolks, MSNF, and stabilizer is 305 grams. To yield a total of 1000 grams, 695
grams of milk and whipping cream is needed. But how much of each is needed?
Vanilla Ice Cream Recipe
Ingredient Weight Percentage
Milk
Whipping Cream
Granulated Sugar 160 g 20% Total
Glucose Powder DE 40 40 g
Egg Yolks 50 g 5%
MSNF 50 g 5%
Stabilizer 5g 0.5%
The following formula is used to calculate the weight of the whipping cream. Once
this is calculated, the amount of milk can be determined. This formula takes into
account how many grams of total fat are needed and how much total weight is
needed to complete the formula. Practice will be needed in using this formula.
However, it will yield precise results to assist in balancing ice cream formulas.
When calculating the whipping cream and milk, the fat percentages for the dairy
products must be converted to the decimal form.
Converting Fat Percentages to Decimals
Product Fat Solids Percent Fat Solids Decimal Form
Whole Milk 3.6% 0.036
Skim Milk 0% 0.0
Light Whipping Cream 30% 30% 0.30
Whipping Cream 35% 35% 0.35
Heavy Whipping Cream 40% 40% 0.40
Butter 82% 0.82
F – (M × D) = Total grams of cream(W – M)

Note: This formula is presented in two ways. The formula above can be entered
into a scientific calculator. The following formulas break the formula into smaller
components, either way will provide the same answer.
F = Total grams of fat needed in recipe = 100 g
M = Percentage of fat in milk in decimal form = 0.036
W = Percentage of fat in whipping cream in decimal form = 0.35
D = Total dairy weight = 695 g
The first line is calculated by multiplying the milk fat in decimal form by the total
dairy weight:
Line 1 = M × D
Line 1 = 0.036 × 695 g
Line 1 = 25.02 g
Next, subtract the total grams of fat needed in the recipe by the answer from Line
1:
Line 2 = F – Line 1
Line 2 = 100 g – 25.02 g
Line 2 = 74.98 g
For the next portion of the formula, subtract the milk fat from the whipping cream
fat; remember to use these in decimal form:
Line 3 = W – M
Line 3 = 0.35 – 0.036
Line 3 = 0.314
To complete the problem, divide the answer from line 2 by the answer from line 3:
Grams of whipping cream = Line 2/Line 3
Grams of whipping cream = 74.98 g/0.314
Grams of whipping cream = 238.789
This answer can be rounded to 239 g
The weight of milk is calculated by subtracting the whipping cream weight from the
remaining ingredient weight of 695 g:
695 g – 239 g = 456 g milk
The final calculated recipe is:
Vanilla Ice Cream Recipe
Milk 456 g 10% Fat
Whipping Cream 239 g
Granulated Sugar 160 g 20% Sugar
Glucose Powder DE 40 40 g
Egg Yolks 50 g 5%
MSNF 50 g 5%
Stabilizer 5g 0.5%
Total Weight 1000 g
The percentages used to calculate the recipe are not intended to equal 100% the
way it is written. The percentages represent the ingredients that are used to create
the desired texture. By adjusting these ingredients, the last ingredient, water, is
controlled. Remember that the ingredient that was of concern was the fat
percentage. A large component of milk and whipping cream is water. By balancing
the recipe and following the percentage ranges, a balanced recipe can be created.
The only ingredient that changes based on adjusting the percentages is the water.
In ice cream making, the goal is to control the water, creating the proper
consistency, flavor, and serving temperature.
Non–Dairy-Based Churned Frozen Desserts

Sorbet
Sorbet is created through a balanced recipe of fruit purée, water, sugars, and
stabilizers. Although the FDA does not regulate sorbet, it should not contain any
dairy products. The general perception of the public is that sorbet is dairy free,
making it an option to vegan and lactose-intolerant customers. In some recipes,
however, MSNF may be used to trap free water and create a creamy texture in the
final product. Since there is no regulation as to what can be called a sorbet, some
chefs use their creativity to create buttermilk or sour cream sorbets.
Sorbet: 28–31° Brix, Granité: 16–19° Brix, are the recommend sugar percentages
for sorbet and granité syrups. They indicate a point of reference for calculating new
recipes. Each fruit has a unique sugar percentage. The sugar percentage present
in the fruit will need be included when calculating the total amount of sugar present
in the recipe. Too high of a sugar content and the sugar will separate from the
recipe when stored in the freezer.
Granité (Granita)
Sorbet and Granité have a common use of ingredients with different ratios. The
reduced amount of sugar indicates the final product will freeze harder and create
larger crystals. Granités are not churned in a machine; instead, they are stirred by
hand during the freezing process. This creates more of a coarse, shaved-ice type
consistency with large, flaky ice crystals.
Methods
When cooking ice cream bases, there is a focus on the temperature to prevent
over coagulation of the egg proteins. While sorbet does not contain eggs the same
attention must be given during the cooking process. If the syrup solution is cooked
too high or for too long of a time, water will begin to evaporate and change the
recipe. Only the syrup is cooked for a sorbet. Almost all fruits have a pH that is
acidic enough that bacteria cannot survive. Additionally the fresh flavor of the fruit
and bright colors are lost when heating.
Sorbet Method
1. Combine all dry ingredients and mix thoroughly.
2. Place water in saucepan and begin heating.
3. When the temperature reaches 104°F (40°C), add the dry ingredients to the
water.
4. Heat the syrup to 185°F (85°C), while covered.
6. Allow the mixture to mature under refrigeration for 6 to 12 hours.
7. Using an immersion blender combine the purée and syrup.
8. Freeze in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer's
instructions.
9. Extract sorbet from the machine into prefrozen containers, cover and freeze
to –22°F (–30°C) to stabilize the sorbet. Store at this temperature until
needed for service.
10. Temper to 10°F (–12°C) for service.
Guidelines for Formulating a Sorbet

Sorbet can be created with as few as three ingredients: fruit purée or other flavor,
granulated sugar, and water. Increases in technology and availability of products
have changed the way sorbets are made. While there are not many components,
the ingredient of the fruit alone contains water, solids, and sugar. Each fruit
requires its own formulation to create a balanced recipe. If using fresh fruit,
adjustments may need to be made throughout the season to accommodate
different sugar and solid levels. In order to maintain consistent results, it is
recommended to use fruit purées for sorbets. Understanding how the ingredients
and fruit work together make it possible to create a sorbet recipe.
Ingredient Percentages for Sorbet Base of 1000 g Yield
Ingredient Range Grams
Fruit Purée (sweet) 40–60% 400–600 g
Fruit Purée (acidic) 25–40% 250–400 g
Solids 31–36% 310–360 g
Sugar (includes maximum 6% glucose powder) 28–33% 280–330 g
Stabilizer 0–1% 0–10 g
Lemon Juice 0–5% 0–50 g
Water
Solids in the recipe can range from 31% to 36%; this is a total of the solids in the
fruit purées, additional sugars, and stabilizer. The following table provides a
reference for sugar and solids percentage of fruits commonly used for sorbets. If
the fruit is not listed on the chart, a refractometer can easily identify the percentage
of solids in a purée.
Sugar and Solid Percentages in Fresh Fruit
Fruit Sugar Solids
Apple 10% 14%
Apricot 9% 12%
Banana 15% 24%
Black Currant 7% 18%
Blackberry 7% 14%
Blueberry 11% 15%
Cherry 12% 18%
Guava 9% 19%
Lemon 3% 9%
Lime 1% 10%
Mango 14% 16%
Orange 10% 12%
Papaya 8% 14%
Passion Fruit 11% 16%
Peach 9% 10%
Pear 10% 16%
Pineapple 9% 12%
Raspberry 5% 14%
Strawberry 6% 11%
Watermelon 7% 8%
To manufacture 1000 grams of fresh blueberry sorbet base identify the

percentages of each ingredient needed. For this recipe the following percentages
were selected, with a target of 35% solids. The sum of the solids from the purée,
glucose powder, and stabilizer are used to determine how much sugar is needed to
meet the solid percentages. The quantity of lemon juice in this recipe is negligible
and will not have an impact on the final percentages; it is used to enhance the
flavor of the fruit. Once this is calculated the only remaining ingredient is the water.
Fresh Blueberry Purée 400 g 40%
Sugar
Glucose Powder DE 40 30 g 3%
Stabilizer 5g 0.5%
Lemon Juice 20 g 2%
Water
Calculating solids:
Blueberry Purée 400 g × 0.15 = 60 g
Glucose Powder 30 g × 0.95 = 28.5 g
Stabilizer 5 g × 1.00 = 5g
Total solids = 93.5 g
*Note: The 0.95 reference in the glucose line is derived from the Power of
Sugar table on p. 150.
The total solids needed for the blueberry sorbet were determined to be 30% or 350
grams. To determine how much granulated sugar to add, subtract the total solids
from 350. In some instances, when the solids are required and sweetness does not
need to be increased up to 2% dextrose can be added to the recipe.
Granulated sugar = 350 g – 93.5 g = 256.5 g
Sugar 256.5 g 25.65%
Stabilizer 5g 0.5%
Lemon Juice 20 g 2%
Water
Calculating the amount of water is done in a similar fashion. The total of all
ingredients, 711 grams is subtracted from the original required total of 1000 g.
Water needed = 1000 g–711 g = 289 g water.
Final Blueberry Sorbet Recipe
Sugar 256.5 g 25.65%
Stabilizer 5g 0.5%
Lemon Juice 20 g 2%
Water 289 g 28.9%
Total 1000.5 g 100%
It is recommended to calculate the AFP of the sorbet before proceeding to the next
step. After testing in the kitchen and evaluating the final product adjustments can
be made to the ingredients to achieve the desired texture.
Granité Method
1. Combine sugar and water.
2. Heat to dissolve sugar, cool syrup over an ice bath.
3. Combine syrup with flavorings.
4. Place mixture in a shallow pan in freezer and begin freezing.
5. Scrape mixture every 30 minutes until frozen.
Serving Churned Desserts

The process of making churned desserts requires careful detail to attention and an
understanding of the processes and ingredients involved. This can also be
extended to include serving these items. An ice cream served at too cold of a
temperature will be difficult to scoop and too cold to reveal the full flavor. A service
temperature that is too warm will not provide an attractive presentation. The ideal
serving temperature for ice cream and sorbet is 10°F (–12°C).
A properly balanced recipe will give the ice cream and sorbet a soft texture making
them easy to present as a round scoop or quenelle. A quenelle is an oval-shaped
scoop created using a spoon. When scooping ice cream and sorbet the scoop or
spoon should be placed in warm water between scoops. This will help the scoop to
pass through the ice cream as well as release from the scoop when finished.
Still Frozen Desserts

Still frozen desserts are known by many names: parfait, soufflé glacé, bombe
glacé, semifreddo, or mousse glacé. Some of these names have the same
meaning just in a different language: French, Italian, and even English. They all
contain an egg product, and it may even come down to the procedure of
assembling the ingredients to set them apart. In the United States, there are no
regulations specifying the differences in these products. Each of these products
has unique textural differences as well as flavor profiles. This provides the pastry
chef the opportunity to use different frozen items to maximize the flavor of their
desserts.
Parfait
In the United States, a parfait is often thought of as a layered item served in a
glass. A parfait is composed of pâte à bombe, whipped cream, and flavorings. It is
very similar to a mousse recipe, but to maintain the semi-frozen texture there is
additional granulated sugar, around 30% more. The use of egg yolks in this recipe
adds texture and richness; it is best paired with strong flavors. The additional fat
can make the mouthfeel slightly heavier than the mousse glacé. Subtle flavors like
banana or peach may be difficult to use, but strong flavors like chocolate or even
vanilla work well with a parfait.
Mousse Glacé or Semifreddo

In French the name mousse glacé literally translates to “frozen mousse”; in Italian,
it is known as semifreddo or “semi frozen.” This product tends to be lighter in
texture and flavor. The lightness comes from the use of a meringue, whipped
cream, and flavorings. It is recommended to use an Italian meringue, due to the
egg whites being fully cooked and removing any possible pathogens. A traditional
Italian meringue uses 2 parts sugar to 1 part egg whites. This amount of sugar
makes it difficult to freeze. Reducing the amount of sugar will create a product that
will freeze and be the correct texture. The same process for making an Italian
meringue is followed. Using ingredients with less fat gives a light texture and does
not mask lighter flavors.
Soufflé Glacé
Soufflé glacé means “frozen soufflé.” There are many variations for this product.
One constant throughout all versions is that they contain alcohol, most commonly
Grand Marnier. The base recipes can be as simple as a meringue, cream, and
flavorings, just like the mousse glacé but containing more whipped cream. Other
versions are made using a sabayon base, whipped cream, and flavorings.
Following the literal translation, the soufflé glacé is served in a style to mimic that
of the hot soufflé, rising out of a ramekin.
Bombe
Ice cream cakes are a popular item served in upscale pastry shops in the United
States and Europe. The name bombe translates to “bomb” in English, and it refers
to the traditional domed shape of ice cream cakes, also called entremet glacé.
Baked Alaska would be an example of a bombe. More elaborate versions could
contain several frozen components: ice cream, sorbet, coulis, and parfait. It is as
much of an art to combine these techniques and balance the flavors of all the
recipes inside the bombe, just as much as it is to have the correct balance of sugar
to ensure when tempered the consistency of the cake is the same from one layer
to the next.
Recipes
Vanilla Ice Cream
Yield: 2 lb 2.9 oz (990 g)
Portions: 34
Yield description: 34 scoops at 1 oz (28.35 g)
Milk 1 lb 1.64 oz 500 g
Sugar 4.94 oz 140 g
Glucose Powder DE 40 1.13 oz 32 g
Milk Solids Nonfat 1.76 oz 50 g
Ice Cream Stabilizer 0.11 oz 3g
Procedure
1. Ice cream base process on page 158.
Chocolate Ice Cream (Philadelphia Style)

Portions: 35
Milk 1 lb 7.14 oz 656 g
Sugar 1.98 oz 56 g
Inverted Sugar 1.98 oz 56 g

Procedure
1. Combine, nonfat milk powder, sugar, and ice cream stabilizer.
2. In a heavy-bottom saucepan, combine milk and inverted sugar.
3. Whisk dry ingredients into milk.
4. Heat to 185°F (85°C), while whisking.
5. Add chocolate and heat again to 189°F (87°C).
6. Emulsify and strain through a chinois and place on an ice bath.
7. Allow to mature for a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Gianduja Gelato
Yield: 2 lb 3.3 oz (1002 g)
Portions: 35
Milk 1 lb 5.8 oz 618 g
Sugar 5.5 oz 156 g
Gianduja Chocolate 3.53 oz 100 g
Procedure
2. After pasteurizing add chocolate.
3. Strain through a chinois and place on an ice bath.
4. Mature for a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Pistachio Gelato
Portions: 35

Milk 1 lb 3.75 oz 560 g
Cream 3.17 oz 90 g
Sugar 5.64 oz 160 g
Pistachio Paste, unsweetened 3.53 oz 100 g
Procedure
2. Add pistachio paste after pasteurizing.
3. Strain through a chinois and mature for a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Roasted Corn Ice Cream

Yield: 2 lb 3.4 oz (1005 g)
Portions: 35
Sweet Corn, roasted and scraped 4 oz 113 g
Milk 12 oz 340 g
Sugar 6 oz 170 g
Ice Cream Stabilizer 0.09 oz 2.5 g
Note: The roasted corn can be puréed into the ice cream base to increase the flavor.
Procedure
1. Remove the husk from corn and roast at 425°F (220°C) until the corn begins to
gain color.
2. Allow the corn to cool and cut the kernels off the cob. Using the back of a knife
scrape the cob to remove the milk.
3. Scale 113 g of the roasted kernels and milk from the cob for the recipe.
Reserve the cob for the recipe.
4. Heat milk, cream, half the sugar, corn cobs, and roasted corn kernels and corn
milk to a simmer.
5. Cover with plastic wrap and allow to steep overnight in the refrigerator.
6. Strain corn solids from milk and scrape cobs again to remove the milk and
cream mixture. Press milk from corn kernels.
7. To finish follow the ice cream base process.
Brown Butter Ice Cream

Portions: 34
Unsalted Butter 6 oz 170 g
Milk 1 lb 1.64 oz 500 g
Sugar 4.9 oz 140 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Note: The flavor of the brown butter is steeped into the milk and cream.
Procedure
1. Brown butter in a saucepan.
2. Cool slightly; add milk and cream.
3. Steep overnight under refrigeration.
4. Strain off butter and return milk and cream mixture to the pan the butter was
browned in.
5. To finish follow the ice cream base process.
Mango Ice Cream

Yield: 2 lb 3.3 oz (1002 g)
Portions: 35
Milk 11.53 oz 327 g
Sugar 3.09 oz 87 g
Mango Purée 8.64 oz 245

g
Passion Fruit Purée 3.1 oz 88 g
Procedure
2. After cooling, blend in purées.
Strawberry Ice Cream

Portions: 35
Sugar 6.35 oz 180 g

Strawberry Purée 3.53 oz 100 g
Procedure
2. After cooling blend in purée.
Pineapple Sherbet
Portions: 37
Water 4.13 oz 117 g
Sugar 4.44 oz 126 g
Milk 7.83 oz 222 g
Pineapple Purée 1 lb 1.78 oz 504 g
Lemon juice 0.32 oz 9g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar, glucose powder, and stabilizer.
2. Whisk the dry ingredients into to water and heat to 185°F (85°C).
3. Cool syrup on an ice bath.
4. Add syrup to milk, cream, pineapple and lemon purée, emulsify.
5. Allow mixture to mature a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Frozen Yogurt
Yield: 2 lb 2.7 oz (995.7 g)
Portions: 35
Yield description: 35 portions at 1 oz (28.35 g)
Greek Yogurt 2% fat 1 lb 14 oz 860 g
Sugar 1.83 oz 52 g
Glucose Syrup 1.98 oz 56 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and ice cream stabilizer.
2. In a heavy-bottom saucepan, combine yogurt and sugar mixture with a whisk.
3. Add glucose and inverted to saucepan.
4. Heat to 150°F (65°C).
5. Mix with immersion blender.
6. Allow mixture to mature for a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Lemon Mosto Olive Oil Ice Cream

Yield: 2 lb 3 oz (1017.5 g)
Portions: 35
Milk 1 lb 0.93 oz 480 g
Cream 4.94 oz 140 g
Sugar 4.94 oz 140 g
Lemon Mosto Olive Oil 3.35 oz 95 g
Procedure
2. After cooling the base incorporate the lemon mosto olive oil using an immersion
blender. Slowly stream the oil while mixing to emulsify.
3. Allow mixture to mature for a minimum 6 hours under refrigeration.
Vanilla Parfait
Portions: 13
Water 2.5 oz 70 g
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Yolks 6.7 oz 190 g
Note: Cook pâte à bombe syrup with vanilla beans; remove before adding sugar to the
whipping yolks.
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and vanilla beans in a saucepan.
2. Make a pâte à bombe with the egg yolks and sugar mixture.
3. When pâte à bombe is completely cooled, fold in cream.
4. Place in molds and freeze immediately.
Chocolate Parfait
Portions: 13
Water 1.1 oz 30 g
Sugar 4.7 oz 132 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium peaks 15.9 oz 450 g
Chocolate 63%, melted 11 oz 312 g
Procedure
1. Pâte à bombe mousse method on page 132.
2. Fill molds and freeze immediately.
Banana Mousse Glacé

Yield: 2 lb 10 oz (1207 g)
Portions: 14
Heavy Cream, whipped to soft peaks 14.8 oz 420 g
Egg White 6.8 oz 192 g
Sugar 6.8 oz 192 g
Water 2.8 oz 80 g
Banana Purée 14.1 oz 400 g
Lime Zest 0.1 oz 3g
Procedure
1. Make an Italian meringue with sugar, water, and egg whites (procedure on
page 264).
2. Fold banana purée into meringue.
3. Fold cream and lime zest into meringue mixture.
4. Fill mold and freeze immediately.
Cappuccino Semifreddo
Portions: 13
Semifreddo Pastry Cream
Milk 7.9 oz 224 g
Sugar 2.2 oz 63 g

Eggs 0.74 oz 21 g
Regular Clear Gel 0.74 oz 21 g
Cappuccino Semifreddo
Pastry Cream 12.3 oz 350 g
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Water 0.9 oz 25 g
Coffee Extract 3.5 oz 100 g
Coffee Liquor 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Prepare the Semifreddo Pastry Cream using the pastry cream method on page
123.
2. Make an Italian meringue with sugar, water, and egg whites.
3. Mix pastry cream with a whisk to loosen consistency; add coffee extract.
4. Fold whipped cream into pastry cream.
5. Fold meringue into pastry cream mixture.
6. Fill molds and freeze immediately.
Soufflé Glacé
Portions: 13
Sugar 10.6 oz 300 g
Heavy Cream, whipped to medium stiff peaks 14.8 oz 420 g

Candied Orange Peel (p. 312), chopped fine 2.5 oz 72 g
Grand Marnier 2.1 oz 60 g
Procedure
1. Rinse candied peel in cold water and macerate in Grand Marnier overnight.
2. Combine eggs, egg yolks, and sugar; whisk over a bain marie.
3. Cook to 160°F (70°C).
4. Place in a mixer with a whisk and mix on high until cooled completely.
5. Fold in cream, zest, and remaining Grand Marnier.
6. Mold and freeze immediately.
Lemon Sorbet
Portions: 34
Lemon Purée 8.82 oz 250 g
Sugar 7.05 oz 200 g
Sorbet Stabilizer 0.11 oz 3g
Procedure
1. Sorbet method on page 162.
Raspberry Sorbet
Portions: 38
Raspberry Purée 1 lb 5.16 oz 600 g
Sugar 5.08 oz 144 g
Sorbet Stabilizer 0.04 oz 1.2 g
Procedure
Strawberry Sorbet
Portions: 36
Strawberry Purée 1 lb 6.93 oz 650 g
Sugar 4.59 oz 130 g
Water 7.9 oz 224 g
Procedure
Green Apple Sorbet

Portions: 36
Green Apple Purée 1 lb 5.16 oz 600 g
Sugar 4.66 oz 132 g

Water 9.42 oz 267 g
Procedure
Passion Fruit Sorbet

Yield: 2 lb 3.6 oz (1010 g)
Portions: 35
Sugar 7.44 oz 211 g
Procedure
Mango Sorbet
Portions: 35
Mango Purée 1 lb 1.63 oz 500 g
Sugar 7.05 oz 200 g

Water 8.64 oz 245 g
Procedure
Coconut Sorbet
Yield: 2 lb 3.2 oz (999.6 g)
Portions: 35
Sugar 6.35 oz 180 g
Water 12.8 oz 363 g
Procedure
Apricot Sorbet
Portions: 35
Apricot Purée 1 lb 4.6 oz 585 g
Sugar 4.13 oz 117 g
Sorbet Stabilize 0.04 oz 1.2 g
Water 9.21 oz 261 g
Procedure
Roasted Banana Sorbet

Portions: 39
Roasted Banana Purée
Bananas, ripe 2 lb 3.2 oz 1000 g
Cinnamon Sticks 2 each 2 each
Star Anise 2 each 2 each
Vanilla Bean, used 4 each 4 each
Roasted Banana Sorbet
Roasted Banana Purée 1 lb 1.64 oz 500 g
Sugar 6.35 oz 180 g
Procedure
1. Break spices into pieces and stud bananas through the skin.
2. Roast on a paper-lined sheet pan at 375°F (190°C) until peels become dark
brown, almost black.
3. Cool and remove peels and spices, purée.
Cherry Sorbet
Portions: 36

Cherry Purée 1 lb 8.69 oz 700 g
Sugar 6.91 oz 196 g
Water 3.56 oz 101 g
Procedure
Tea Granité
Portions: 18
Portion size: 2 oz (56 oz)
Yield description: 18 servings at 2 oz (56 oz)
Tea 0.3 oz 8.5 g
Sugar 6.3 oz 180 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, lemon, and tea.
2. Heat to a simmer and allow to steep for 15 minutes.
3. Strain and cool.
4. Place in freezer and stir every 30 minutes until frozen.
Cherry Granité
Portions: 16
Portion size: 2 oz (56 oz)
Yield description: 16 servings at 2 oz (56 oz)
Sour Cherry Purée 1 lb 0.9 oz 480 g

White Wine 8.5 oz 240 g
Honey 4.2 oz 120 g
Sugar 4.2 oz 120 g
Procedure
1. Warm 25% of the puree with the sugar to dissolve the sugar.
2. Follow the Granité method on page 165 to finish.
Apple Cider Granité

Portions: 17
Yield description: 17 servings at 2 oz (56 g)
Water 6.3 oz 180 g
Sugar 4.2 oz 120 g
Apple Cider 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g
Calvados 0.35 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Granité method on page 165.
Lemon Granité
Portions: 19
Yield Description: 19 servings at 2 oz (56 g)
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Granité method on page 165.
Summary
Formulating frozen desserts is no easy task. However, offering customized
products with great flavor and textures will set the establishment apart from the
rest. Understanding the processes and balance of the recipes is critical to
producing an excellent product. Offering a wide variety of frozen desserts from still
frozen to churned will showcase the knowledge of the pastry chef. Frozen desserts
give us a way to serve a little nostalgia while helping to create new experiences.
Troubleshooting for Frozen Desserts
Cooked ice cream base is lumpy Thermometer is not correct; recalibrate

and curdled. thermometer and cook over lower heat.
Ice cream has a coarse texture Product was overchurned, and fat has
when extracted from machine. separated from the mix.
Ice cream has a mousse like airy Too much fat is in the recipe.
texture.
Ice cream melts too quickly. 1. Base was not cooked properly.
2. Not enough stabilizer.
3. Not enough total solids.
4. Freezer temperature is not low enough.
Ice cream/sorbet is too hard. 1. Freezer temperature is too low.

2. Not enough sugar/solids in the recipe.
Ice cream/sorbet is icy. 1. Freezer temperature fluctuates.

2. Ice cream machine does not freeze fast
enough or turn fast enough.
3. There is not enough sugar in the
recipe.
Ice cream/sorbet has a gummy Too much stabilizer.

texture.
Frozen sorbet has a syrupy liquid Too much sugar; the water remains frozen
in the bottom of the container. and the sugar does not.
Key Terms
Churned
Still frozen
Overrun
Free water
Sweetening power (SP)
Antifreezing power (AFP)
Dextrose equivalent
Invert sugar
Brix
Nappe
Pasteurization
High temperature/Short time (HTST)
Parfait
Mousse glacé
Semifreddo
Soufflé glacé
Bombe

1. Describe the process for cooking an ice cream base.
2. Explain the difference between dextrose and powdered glucose.
3. What are the benefits of using stabilizers and emulsifiers in frozen desserts?
4. Why is it important to know the different sweetening powers of sugars?
5. Why is air a critical ingredient in the production of frozen desserts?
Cake Mixing and Baking Page 1 of 32
CHAPTER 7
Cake Mixing and Baking
The Primrose Path by Ogden Nash goes so far as to say, “. . . piece of cake.” This
implies that cake is easy to make and conjures pleasant thoughts, and part of this
is true. All throughout our lives, cake is served at celebrations. It is the centerpiece
at weddings and birthdays. Oftentimes, the focus of the cake is the look—flavor
and texture must be created and designed to enhance the exterior. Proficiency in
cake mixing and baking will make certain the cake tastes as good as it looks.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Understand the function of ingredients in cakes.
2. Produce a variety of high-fat and low-fat cakes.
3. Demonstrate the creaming and egg foam methods.
4. Identify cake defects and how to resolve them.
5. Determine the doneness of cakes.
Introduction to Cakes
There are many varieties of cakes; some are light while others can be dense and
chewy. No matter what the final texture is, common ingredients are used
throughout the production of cakes: eggs, flour, sugar, leaveners, and fats. Cakes
are also used in many finished products in the pastry kitchen. This chapter will help
provide a thorough understanding of ingredient functions, mixing methods, and
proper baking skills that the pastry chef needs to develop the proper texture when
baking cakes.
Ingredients
Cakes can be made from as few as four ingredients: fat, sugar, flour, and eggs.
While others may contain 12 or more ingredients, this does not mean it will be a
better cake—sometimes simple is better. The key is to understand how the
ingredients function in the recipe, and know what the function of the cake is in the
pastry. In some applications, the cake is a thin layer on the bottom of a dessert so
it can be easily transferred without sticking. Other instances may require a tender
layer inserted into an entremet that can be cut cleanly for service and provide
texture. Knowledge of cake ingredients will help to make the proper selection.
Fats
Cakes utilize many different fats, including butter, shortening, high-ratio shortening,
liquid shortenings, and oil. One of the main functions of the fats is to tenderize the
cake by shortening the gluten and providing moisture. Fats are responsible for
incorporating air, creating the smooth fluffy texture desired in high-fat cakes. Flavor
can also be impacted by the type of fat used; for example, butter will provide
excellent flavor (but carries a higher price).
When scaling a recipe, be sure to use the fat required. While butter and shortening
can be easily exchanged, the flavor and feel of the cake will be different.
Shortenings melt at 120°F (49°C), and since this is higher than body temperature,
they can coat the mouth with fat. High-ratio shortening is typically used in cakes
that contain a higher quantity of sugar and liquids in relation to the flour. The two-
stage method commonly uses high-ratio shortening to assist in the emulsification
of the additional ingredients. Liquid shortenings (Fluid Flex, Jilk, etc.) are
specifically designed for cake production. These products contain additional
emulsifiers and produce a light, fluffy cake. The recipes were designed to use
these fats, and mixing times and speeds must be observed. Regardless of
personal preferences, the fat specified in a recipe is the fat that must be used.
Sugars
There are many different forms of sugars available, and each one has its own
individual properties. Sugars add sweetness, color, and moisture to the cake and
help with maintaining a tender final product. The benefits of sugar begin during the
mixing stage.
In the creaming method, the crystalline structure of the sugar helps to create air
cells in the fat. As the fat and granulated sugar are mixed together, the grains cut
the fat and create air cells. Up to 25% of the leavening in a cake can come from
the properly formed air cells. During the mixing of foamed cakes, sugars begin to
denature the eggs, ensuring that a stable foam is formed. Sugars also increase the
temperature that egg proteins coagulate. This increase allows the cake additional
time to rise, adding to the light texture of the cake.
The most commonly used sugar in the production of cakes is granulated sugar.
Corn syrup, glucose syrup, Trimoline, and honey are used in some recipes along
with or in place of granulated sugar. All sugars are hygroscopic; they have the
ability to attract and hold water during the baking process and continue to attract
moisture after baking. Inverted sugars have increased hydroscopicity, which
prevents the cake from becoming dry. Moisture is lost during the baking
process—keeping more moisture in the cake will help to extend shelf life.
Increased shelf life is not the only advantage; absorbing water means that it is not
available to the flour. This reduces the flour's ability to form gluten.
When substituting sugars, refer to the Power of Sugar table on page 150 in
Chapter 6 to determine the sweetening power of the different sugars. It is not
recommended to substitute liquid sweeteners for dry sweeteners, as this will
change the balance of the recipe.
Flours (Driers)
Flours, or driers, are any ingredients added to a recipe that absorb water. A wide
range of ingredients are covered under this group: flours, cocoa powder, corn
starch, potato starch, milk powder, and nut flours. This is a wide range of
ingredients; careful consideration must go into substituting one ingredient for
another. Each flour has a different protein content and particle size. Smaller
particles have increased surface area. Flours aid in the absorption of liquids and
creating the final crumb texture of the cake. Higher-protein flours are not typically
used in the production of cakes, as they tend to create a tough final product.
In most cases, flours are added toward the end of the mixing process to absorb
liquids and prevent developing gluten. It is the goal of cake making to control the
amount of gluten developed; while some gluten is needed it is the starch that will
provide structure to the cake. During the baking process, as temperatures
approach 120 to 140°F (50 to 60°C), starches begin to swell. Water absorption
continues until the starches begin to set at 170°F (70°C). At this point, the shape of
the cake will not change as the starches coagulate.
In recent years, there has been an increase in people diagnosed with celiac
disease, which is an intolerance to gluten. In addition, others are choosing to live
gluten free. The combination of these has increased the need and desire for
products that are gluten free. There are commercially available flour replacers.
However, they can easily be made with starches, nut flours, and rice flours. Some
adjustment to the fat and sugars in the recipe may be needed to achieve the
proper texture. Chapter 4 includes a recipe for a flour replacer that is flexible and
works in many recipes.
Eggs
The role of eggs in cakes is multifaceted—color, flavor, emulsifier, structure, or
leavener can all be achieved with an egg. The type of cake and recipe determine
which part of the egg is used and how the egg is prepared for the cake. Creamed
cakes normally call for whole eggs, while foamed cakes can use whole eggs,
whites, yolks, or any combination of these.
A cake is an emulsion of fat and water. Creamed cakes start with fat and sugar. In
the next step, eggs are added to the fat mixture, creating an emulsion. Eggs are
mostly water, and the fat surrounds the water. When the eggs are added, air cells
are formed in the emulsion that expand during baking. If this water-in-fat emulsion
is broken, the water surrounds the fat. A broken emulsion will reduce the final
volume and the cake will have a greasy feel to the touch. Warming the eggs
slightly will help prevent this from happening. When incorporating eggs into a
recipe, it is important to warm the eggs to 72°F (22°C).
Warmed eggs will also produce a more stable foam for low-fat cakes. In low-fat
cakes, the air cells incorporated during the mixing process perform all of the
leavening. Developing the proper structure in the egg foam is done slowly, creating
small stable bubbles.
The process of making a genoise starts with whipping eggs and sugar. Start by
whipping the eggs on a lower speed to begin denaturing the proteins. Similar to
mixing bread, the proteins of an egg are tightly coiled and need to be relaxed and
uncoil. Once the egg proteins transition into long strands, they are capable of
trapping more air, which results in a lighter texture. Once the mixture has reached
ribbon stage, mix at a lower speed to further stabilize the mixture. This will also
remove any large bubbles that may have formed. The stability of the foam is critical
in developing the final texture and volume in the cake.
Leaveners
In high-fat cakes, an extra boost of leavening is needed to produce a light cake.
This is achieved through the use of chemical leaveners. Baking soda and baking
powder are the most common leaveners for cakes. Both of these products release
carbon dioxide into the cake mix, but how they do it is different.
Baking soda reacts with acids in the recipe to release carbon dioxide—heat is not
needed to produce the reaction. Once the recipe is combined, the acid and baking
soda start a chemical reaction that cannot be stopped. The carbon dioxide is
released, and because there is not an endless supply, the product must be baked
immediately. Proper mise en place is important when working with baking soda
leavened products to maximize the volume of these products.
The result of combining baking soda with a dry acid is baking powder. Baking
powder is available in several forms, with double acting being most common.
Products made with double-acting baking powder require heat to activate the
leavening. A small amount of carbon dioxide is produced when mixed; the
remainder is released during the baking process. This reduces the need to quickly
pan and bake the cakes, while still providing the same leavening.
Substitution of baking soda and baking powder at the same quantities will not yield
the same results. When substituting baking powder for baking soda, increase the
quantity by three. If the recipe originally calls for 1 oz (28 g) baking soda, the
correct amount of baking powder would be 3 oz (84 g). When replacing baking
powder with baking soda, combine 2 parts cream of tartar with 1 part baking soda.
At this point, scale the same quantity of the homemade baking powder, as
specified in the recipe.
Main Categories
Cakes can be broken down into two main categories: high fat and low fat. Cakes
that are higher in fat are the preferred cake for the American palate. The high
percentage of fat and sugar in these cakes creates a soft texture and sweet flavor.
In some instances, high-fat cakes are too tender for slicing into thin layers—this is
where low-fat cakes come in. Low-fat cakes are a more durable and resilient cake
and can be sliced thin. Traditionally, low-fat cakes are brushed with flavored syrups
to sweeten and add moisture.
There are many decisions to make when selecting a cake for particular job. While a
low-fat cake can be sliced thin and layered, the same can be done with a high-fat
cake such as devil's food cake. The high fat content of the devil's food cake may
not make it ideal for slicing into thin layers, but it is possible. Deciding which cake
is the correct selection should not be an issue of what is easier to work with but
rather, which tastes best with the flavor combinations. You also must consider if
the cake will hold up to its intended use.
Guidelines
Considering that there is a wide variety of cakes, with basic mixing methods, here
are some key points to remember when making cakes:
1. The batter should be a smooth, homogenous mixture. Proper emulsification
and dry ingredient distribution will help to ensure the proper final texture.
2. When mixing, all ingredients should be 72°F (22°C). At this temperature, eggs
are more stable, develop more volume, and emulsify better with fats. One cold
ingredient added to the rest of the ingredients will cool the recipe down and
may make it difficult to mix together and achieve the correct volume.
3. Proper mise en place of ingredients, equipment and oven temperature must be
done at the start of the process. Refer to individual recipes for pan preparation
and oven temperature. Some cakes need to go directly into the oven; waiting
for an oven to come to temperature will reduce the final volume of the cakes.
4. Moving cakes too soon in the baking process may cause the cake to collapse.
There is no need to move a baking cake unless it needs to be turned to develop
even color. Moving a cake too early in the baking process may disturb the
proteins and starches that have not baked and cause the cake to collapse.
5. Thin cakes need to be baked at higher temperatures. Baking these cakes at low
temperatures increases the moisture loss, resulting in a dry cake. Larger cakes
bake at lower temperatures, allowing the cake to bake to the center while
properly coloring the outside of the cake.
6. When testing for doneness, high-fat cakes pull away from the sides of the pans.
Sponge cakes should feel soft and push back against the hand when gently
pressed. Cake testers that remove cleanly from the cake can be used, although
sight and touch are the preferred methods. Testing of thin cakes is done by
carefully lifting the parchment paper with an offset pallet knife; browning on the
bottom of the cake is an indication of doneness.
7. Properly baked cakes need to remain on cooling racks to completely cool.
Wrapping warm cakes traps too much moisture and causes a sticky cake.
High-Fat Cake
High-fat cakes provide a soft texture that many U.S. customers think of when they
think of cake. The texture of a high-fat cake may bring back memories of birthday
celebrations or weddings. These cakes are characterized as having a soft texture
and being tender, sweet, moist, and flavorful. Primarily, high-fat cakes are mixed
using the creaming method, although some procedures use the whip.
Creaming Method
1. Prepare pans: Grease pan bottoms and sides. Line the bottom of the pan with
parchment paper and lightly grease the paper.
2. Scale ingredients and allow them to warm to 72°F (22°C).
3. Mix fat and sugar with a paddle attachment until light and fluffy at medium high
speed.
4. Add the eggs in three additions. Between each addition, scrape the bowl and
paddle thoroughly.
5. Add the sifted dry ingredients in four parts, alternating with the wet ingredients
in three parts. Be sure to end with the last addition of dry ingredients.
Alternating between wet and dry ingredients allows the flour to absorb the
additional quantity of wet ingredients, while not overdeveloping the gluten.
Two-Stage Method
parchment paper and lightly grease the paper.
3. Sift flour, leaveners, and salt, and combine with emulsified shortening.
4. Mix with a paddle attachment 2 minutes on low speed, and scrape.
5. Mix for 2 more minutes on low speed.
6. Add the sugar and mix for 4 minutes on low speed.
7. Combine remaining liquid ingredients in three additions, scraping the bowl
between additions. This stage mixes for a total of 5 minutes.
Liquid Shortenings
parchment paper and lightly grease the paper. Preheat oven to 325°F (165°C).
3. Place wet ingredients in bowl with whip and add sifted dry ingredients.
4. Mix to combine and scrape bowl and attachments.
5. Whip on high for 4 minutes and scrape.
6. Continue mixing for 3 minutes on medium.
Low-Fat Cakes
Low-fat cakes (for example, cakes prepared using the sponge method, the
separation foam method, the jaconde method, the chiffon method, or the
angel food method) utilize egg foam to leaven the cake and create the final
texture. The high percentage of eggs in these cakes results in a final product that is
drier and firmer than a high-fat cake. While this may be viewed as a negative, since
most people are used to the soft, moist high-fat cakes, it is actually a benefit and
allows the cake to be used in different ways. Egg-foam-based cakes also have an
eggy flavor associated with them when eaten alone. Since the cake is drier,
additional flavoring can be added in the form of flavored syrups. Alcohol, fruit, and
even aromatic herbs can be added to the simple syrup to infuse another layer of
flavor into the cake. The texture of the cake makes it ideal for slicing thin layers to
use as a base for a dessert, an internal layer and even a decorative sponge to
wrap around the outside of a cake.
When preparing low-fat cakes, all preparations must be done before mixing begins.
Due to the fact that these cakes do not contain chemical leaveners, they must be
mixed, panned, and baked immediately to obtain the correct volume. Any delays
between the stages will result in lost volume and dense cakes.
When preparing pans, take care to not grease the sides of the pans. Low-fat cakes
are very fragile during the baking and cooling stages. As the cake bakes and rises,
it sticks to the sides of the pan. Sticking to the side provides support to the delicate
cake structure. Many low-fat cakes are turned upside down during cooling to allow
the cake to hang in the pan. Additional moisture evaporates, and sugars and fats
become solids as the cake cools and give the cake structure. Greasing the sides of
the pan would cause the cake to fall out of the pan and collapse under its own
weight.
Sponge Method
1. Prepare pans by lining with parchment paper; a small amount of fat may be
used to prevent the paper from moving in the bottom of the pan.
2. Sift dry ingredients and begin melting butter.
3. Combine eggs and sugar; warm over a bain marie to 110 to 120°F (43 to 50°C)
while stirring constantly.
4. Transfer warmed egg mixture to stand mixer and mix on high for 7 minutes.
5. Reduce speed to medium for 3 minutes.
6. Whip on speed one for 1 minute.
7. Remove from mixer and fold in dry ingredients in four additions.
8. Add a small amount of the batter to the hot melted butter; mix with a whisk to
emulsify.
9. Fold the butter mixture into the cake batter.
10. Fill cake pans three-fourths of the way and bake immediately.
Note: When adding butter to the cake batter, it must be hot. The eggs cool during
whipping, and the remaining ingredients are room temperature; this is enough to
cool the butter too quickly. If the butter is not hot, it will not be evenly distributed
inside the batter and may cause the cake to have a greasy feel.
Note also: Combining the butter with some of the cake batter and emulsifying
prevents the butter from sinking to the bottom of the mixing bowl. Additional folding
is necessary if the butter is not added properly, resulting in lost volume.
FIGURE 7.1 Butter properly distributed in cake batter: Melting the butter
completely will properly distribute the butter evenly through the cake
batter.
FIGURE 7.2 Butter not properly incorporated in cake batter: Butter that is
not heated enough will cool quickly and become solid. This can lead to
poor cake structure and a greasy cake.
Separation Foam Method

1. Prepare pans by lining with parchment paper; a small amount of fat may be
used to prevent the paper from moving in the bottom of the pan.
2. Sift dry ingredients and begin melting butter.
3. Whip egg yolks and sugar on high speed to ribbon stage, approximately 10
minutes.
4. Make a common meringue with remaining sugar and egg whites.
5. Fold meringue into yolk mixture in three additions.
6. Fold in sifted dry ingredients in four additions.
emulsify.
9. Fill cake pans three-fourths of the way and bake immediately.
Note: Cakes made using the separation foaming method have increased volume
and flexibility over the sponge method. The egg whites are allowed to reach
maximum volume due to whipping without the yolk.
Jaconde Method
1. Prepare sheet pans by lining with silpat.
3. Combine eggs, powdered sugar, flour, and almond flour, and whip on high
speed for 10 minutes.
4. Make a common meringue with sugar and egg whites.
5. Fold meringue into egg mixture.
emulsify.
8. Spread into prepared cake pans and bake immediately.
FIGURE 7.3 Properly whipped meringue (left) and overwhipped meringue

(right)
Chiffon Method
1. Prepare pans by lining with parchment paper.
3. Sift flour, baking powder, salt, and half the sugar.
4. Combine oil, egg yolks, water, and flavorings; add the sifted dry ingredients and
mix until smooth.
5. Make a common merinque with egg whites and remaining sugar.
6. Fold meringue into flour mixture in three additions.
7. Pan and bake immediately.
Angel Food Method

2. Sift flour, salt, and first quantity of sugar.
3. Combine cream of tartar and a small amount of the second sugar with egg
white; mix on low for 3 minutes to break down egg whites.
4. Turn the mixer speed up; add the remaining sugar when the egg whites have
increased four times the original volume.
5. Continue whipping at medium high until whites become the consistency of
shaving cream.
6. Fold dry ingredients in four additions.
7. Pan and bake immediately.
Troubleshooting for Cakes
Butter curdles during 1. Ingredients are too cold. Ingredients warmed to room
mixing. temperature will incorporate better.
2. Liquids added too quickly. Add liquids more slowly.
Cake crust is too 1. Oven temperature was too high. Reduce oven
dark. temperature.
2. Cake baked for too long of a time. Reduce baking
time.
3. Too much sugar in the recipe. Check that all
ingredients are scaled accurately.
Crust color is too 1. Oven temperature is too low. Increase oven

light. temperature.
2. Cake did not bake long enough. Increase baking
time.
Cake top cracks Oven temperature was too high. Reduce oven
during baking. temperature.
Cake is heavy. 1. Oven temperature was not high enough. Increase

oven temperature
2. There was not enough leavener. Check that all
ingredients are scaled accurately.
3. Cake was improperly mixed. Review mixing
procedure.
Irregular crumb, large Cake is overmixed. Reduce mixing time.

holes are apparent.
Cake collapses while 1. May have been moved before structure was set. Do
baking or cooling. not move the cake during the initial stages of baking.
2. There was too much chemical leavener. Check that
all ingredients are scaled accurately.
Troubleshooting for Cakes
Cake has poor flavor. 1. Check quality of ingredients. Make sure you are
using good ingredients and they are scaled
accurately.
2. Improper formula. Check formula if increasing the
yield to make sure all ingredients are converted
accurately.
Cake has uneven 1. The oven is not level. Check if oven or racks are
shape. level.
2. Batter was not spread evenly. Make sure batter is
spread evenly before baking.
3. Improperly distributed leavener. Sift the leavener(s)
with the dry ingredients to evenly disperse through
the final recipe.
Recipes
Yellow Cake (Liquid Shortening)
Portions: 2
Portion size: One 10-in. cake
Yield description: Two 10-in. cakes
Sugar 1 lb 4.5 oz 580 g 117.1
Cake Flour 1 lb 1.5 oz 495 g 100
Baking Powder 0.75 oz 21 g 4.3
Salt 0.5 oz 14 g 2.8
Whole Eggs 1 lb 8 oz 680 g 137.3
Milk 7.5 oz 212 g 42.8
Liquid Shortening 9 oz 255 g 51.5
Vanilla Paste 0.25 oz 7g 1.4
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a mixer with whip attachment, and scrape bowl.
2. Whip on high for 4 minutes; scrape bowl.

3. Whip on medium for 3 minutes; scrape bowl.
4. Place the batter into two prepared 10-in. cake pans.
Chocolate Cake (Liquid Shortening)

Yield: 4 lb 12 oz (2179 g)
Portions: 2
Sugar 1 lb 2.75 oz 531 g 144.2
Cake Flour 13 oz 369 g 100
Baking Powder 0.9 oz 25.5 g 6.9
Salt 0.38 oz 10.7 g 2.9
Whole Eggs 1 lb 8 oz 680 g 184.6
Milk 7.5 oz 213 g 57.7
Liquid Shortening 9.4 oz 266 g 72.3
Cocoa Powder 2.8 oz 79 g 21.5
Baking Soda 0.2 oz 5.6 g 1.5
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a mixer with whip attachment, and scrape bowl.
2. Whip on high for 4 minutes; scrape bowl.
3. Whip on medium for 3 minutes; scrape bowl.
High Ratio Cake

Portions: 2

Sugar 1 lb 3.9 oz 565 g 100
Salt 0.5 oz 15 g 2.7
High-Ratio Shortening 9.5 oz 270 g 47.8
Cake Flour 1 lb 3.9 oz 565 g 100
Milk 8.1 oz 230 g 40.7
Egg Yolks 1.9 oz 55 g 9.7
Eggs 7.9 oz 225 g 39.8
Procedure
1. Combine and sift dry ingredients.
2. Combine eggs, egg yolks, and milk.
3. With the paddle attachment, combine the shortening, dry ingredients, and one-
third of milk and egg mixture for 4 minutes on medium speed. At the end of the
mixing time, scrape the bowl and paddle.
4. Add another third of the milk and egg mixture; mix for two minutes on medium
speed. Scrape well.
5. Add the remaining milk and egg mixture; continue mixing for 2 more minutes.
Devil's Food Cake

Portions: 2
Boiling Water 12.5 oz 354 g 101.1
Vanilla Paste 0.4 oz 12 g 3.4
Cake Flour 12.3 oz 350 g 100

Sugar 15.8 oz 450 g 128.6
Baking Soda 0.2 oz 5g 1.4
Salt 0.2 oz 7g 2
Butter, softened 12 oz 340 g 97.1
Bittersweet Chocolate 64% 2.3 oz 65 g 18.8
Procedure
1. Bring water to a boil.
2. Whisk water into cocoa powder and allow to cool.
3. Combine eggs and 3 oz (85 g) of cocoa powder mixture.
4. In a mixing bowl fitted with a paddle attachment, combine remaining dry
ingredients and remaining cocoa powder mixture; mix until combined.
5. Add butter.
6. Mix on medium speed for 90 seconds.
7. Gradually add egg and cocoa powder mixture, scraping between additions.
8. Add melted chocolate.
9. Mix on medium for 1 minute.
11. Bake at 350°F (180°C) for 35 minutes.
Carrot Cake
Portions: 2
Carrots, peeled, finely grated 1 lb 15 oz 880 g 295.3
Salt 0.5 oz 14 g 4.7
Brown Sugar 1 lb 5 oz 595 g 2
Cinnamon 0.16 oz 4.5 g 1.5

Vegetable Oil 1 lb 3.5 oz 553 g 185.6
Walnuts, toasted and chopped 10.5 oz 298 g 100
Baking Soda 0.65 oz 18.4 g 6.2
All-Purpose Flour 8 oz 227 g 76.2
Raisins 5 oz 142 g 47.7
Procedure
2. Mix for 10 minutes on high with the whip attachment.
Genoise
Yield: 2 lb 13 oz (1295 g)
Portions: 2
Eggs 1 lb 4 oz 567 g 208.3
Sugar 11 oz 312 g 114.5
Honey 1.5 oz 42.5 g 15.6
Pastry Flour 9.6 oz 272 g 100
Potato Starch 2.6 oz 74 g 27.1
Butter, melted 1 oz 28 g 10.4
Procedure
1. Sponge method.
Chocolate Genoise
Yield: 2 lb 14 oz (1310 g)
Portions: 2
Eggs 1 lb 4 oz 567 g 232.6
Sugar 11 oz 312 g 127.9
Honey 1.5 oz 42.5 g 17.4
Potato Starch 2.6 oz 74 g 30.2
Procedure
1. Sponge method
Lady Finger Biscuit

Yield: 1 lb 1.3 oz (490 g)
Portions: 50
Portion size: 1 lady finger
Yield description: 50 lady fingers
Egg Yolks 3.2 oz 90 g 90
Whole Eggs 0.9 oz 25 g 25
Sugar #1 3.5 oz 100 g 100
Egg Whites 4.8 oz 135 g 135
Sugar #2 1.4 oz 40 g 40
All-Purpose Flour 3.5 oz 100 g 100
Procedure
1. Separation foam method, page 187.
2. Pipe with a 0.5-in. (13-mm) plain tip, 3 in. (7.5 mm) long, onto a silpat.
3. Dredge with granulated sugar; let stand for 5 minutes.

4. Dust with powdered sugar.
Roulade
Portions: 3
Portion size: half sheet pan
Yield description: 3 half sheet pans
Egg Yolk 8.8 oz 250 g 166.7
Sugar #1 1.2 oz 35 g 23.3
Honey 2.2 oz 62 g 41.3
Water 0.4 oz 11 g 7.3
Egg Whites 11.9 oz 338 g 225.3
Sugar #2 4.4 oz 125 g 83.3
Butter 1.1 oz 31 g 20.7
Milk 2.6 oz 75 g 50
Procedure
1. Separation foam method; note sugar #1, water, and honey are boiled together
and added to the egg yolk mixture.
2. Combine milk and butter; bring to a boil.
3. Fold butter/milk mixture into egg mixture.
4. Fold in sifted flour.
5. Scale 11.1 oz (315 g) per half sheet pan.
Angel Food Cake

Yield: 3 lb 7.4 oz (1569 g)
Portions: 2
Portion size: One 10-in. angel food cake pan
Yield description: Two 10-in. angel food cake pans
Egg Whites 1 lb 8 oz 680 g 244.9
Sugar 10.6 oz 300 g 108.2
Cream of Tartar 0.2 oz 5.7 g 2
Salt 0.2 oz 5.7 g 2
Sugar 10.6 oz 300 g 108.2
Procedure
1. Angel food method.
Japonaise
Portions: 4
Portion size: 8-in. (20-cm) rounds
Yield description: 4
Egg White Powder 0.2 oz 6.8 g
Sugar 6.9 oz 195 g
Almond Flour 2.6 oz 75 g
Powdered Sugar 6.9 oz 195 g
Note: Almond flour can be replaced with any nut flour, desiccated coconut, or seeds.
Procedure
1. Make a common meringue with first sugar and egg whites.
2. Combine second sugar and almond flour.
3. Fold dry ingredients into meringue.
4. Pipe with a 0.5-in. (13-mm) plain tip.
Pain de Genes
Yield: 2 lb 10 oz (1205 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 sheet pan
Yield description: 1 sheet pan
Almond Paste 1 lb 0.9 oz 480 g 436.4
Whole Eggs 1 lb 454 g 412.7
Baking Powder 0.2 oz 6g 5.5
Butter, melted 5.5 oz 155 g 140.9
Procedure
1. Soften the almond paste with some of the eggs using a paddle attachment.
2. Add remaining eggs in several additions, cleaning the paddle and bowl often.
3. Sift together dry ingredients and fold into almond egg mixture.
4. Melt butter and incorporate into batter.
5. Spread in a 0.25-in. (6-mm) thick layer on a silpat-lined sheet pan.
Chocolate Pain de Genes

Yield: 2 lb 14 oz (1313 g)
Portions: 1
Almond Paste 1 lb 2.3 oz 520 g 495.2
Powdered Sugar 3.7 oz 105 g 100
Baking Powder 0.28 oz 8g 7.6
Butter 5.5 oz 155 g 147.6
Semisweet Chocolate 58% 3.4 oz 95 g 90.5
Procedure
1. Using the paddle attachment, combine almond paste and powdered sugar.
2. Melt chocolate and butter.
3. Slowly add eggs to almond paste mixture, scraping often.
4. Add chocolate and butter mixture to mixer.
5. Sift dry ingredients and add; mix until combined.
6. Spread in a 0.25-in. (6-mm) thick layer on a silpat-lined sheet pan.
Sacher Biscuit
Portions: 3
Yield description: 3 sheet pans
Almond Paste 1 lb 3 oz 540 g
Eggs 6.5 oz 185 g
Cocoa Powder 5.8 oz 165 g
Egg Whites 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Butter, melted 5.8 oz 165 g
Procedure
1. Cream almond paste, powdered sugar, and cocoa powder in a mixer with the
paddle attachment; mix until combined on low speed.
2. Slowly add eggs and egg yolks, scraping often.
3. Once all eggs are incorporated, mix on medium speed for 5 minutes.
4. Make a common meringue with sugar and egg whites.
5. Fold meringue into creamed almond paste mixture in three additions.
6. Incorporate a small amount of the cake batter with the melted butter.
7. Return the butter mixture back to the cake batter and fold to combine.
8. Spread 1 lb 8.5 oz (700 g) on one sheet pan, prepared with sprayed parchment
paper.

10. Allow cakes to cool to 105°F (230°C) and wrap with plastic wrap; store in the
freezer.
Orange Chiffon
Yield: 4 lb 15 oz (2196 g)
Portions: 2
Portion size: One 10-in. angel food cake pan
Yield description: Two 10-in. angel food cake pans
Salt 0.4 oz 9.4 g 2.6
Sugar 1 lb 3.6 oz 555 g 154
Vegetable Oil 7.4 oz 210 g 58
Egg Yolks 7.4 oz 210 g 58
Water 8.5 oz 240 g 66
Orange Juice 1.7 oz 48 g 13
Orange Zest 1.5 each 1.5 each
Egg Whites 14.8 oz 420 g 117
Sugar 4.2 oz 120 g 33
Cream of Tartar 0.13 oz 3.75 g 1
Procedure
1. Chiffon method.
Jaconde
Yield: 1 lb 11.6 oz (825 g)
Portions: 1

Eggs 6.2 oz 175 g 516.7
Almond Flour 4.5 oz 128 g 375
Powdered Sugar 4.5 oz 128 g 375
Egg Whites 8.2 oz 232 g 683.3
Sugar 2 oz 57 g 166.7
Procedure
1. Jaconde method.
2. Prepare Jaconde and spread onto silpat or décor paste stencil.
3. Bake at 400°F (205°C) for 5 to 7 minutes. The cake should not develop any
color.
Décor Paste for Jaconde Ribbon Sponge

Yield: 1 lb 12.75 oz (820 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 lb 12.75 oz (820 g)
Butter 7 oz 200 g 516.7
Powder Sugar 7 oz 200 g 100
Egg Whites 7 oz 200 g 375
Food Coloring As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Creaming method.
2. Add color as needed.
3. Spread colored décor paste through a stencil onto a silpat.
4. Remove the stencil and freeze for 30 minutes.
5. Prepare the jaconde and spread immediately onto the frozen décor paste.
6. Bake according to the jaconde method.
7. After cake has cooled, wrap and freeze.

8. Carefully unmold cake from silpat after freezing.
Spreading the color through the stencil (step 3)
Removing the stencil (step 4)
Spreading the jaconde on the stenciled décor paste (step 5)
Finished product
FIGURE 7.4a–d Ribbon sponge method:
Almond Dacquoise
Portions: 3
Yield description: 3 full sheet pans
Almond Flour 2 lb 7.7 oz 1125 g 1250
Powdered Sugar 1 lb 15.7 oz 900 g 1000
Egg Whites 2 lb 15.6 oz 1350 g 1500
Sugar 7.9 oz 225 g 250
Procedure
1. Sift almond flour, powdered sugar, and all-purpose flour.
2. Make a common meringue with egg whites and sugar.
3. Fold almond flour mixture into meringue.
4. Spread 2 lb 10 oz (1200 g) on one sheet pan prepared with sprayed parchment
paper.
5. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 12 to 13 minutes. To check for doneness, carefully
lift the parchment paper to look under the cake. The bottom of the cake should
be golden brown.
6. Allow cakes to cool completely and wrap with plastic wrap; store in the freezer.
1. Sifting the dry ingredients
2. Preparing the meringue
3. Folding in the dry ingredients
4. Spreading the cake

FIGURE 7.5a–d Dacquoise procedure:
Coconut Dacquoise
Portions: 1
Yield Description: 1 full sheet pan
Almond Flour 4.1 oz 115 g 54.8
Desiccated Coconut, toasted 4.6 oz 130 g 61.9
Sugar 14.1 oz 400 g 190.4
Egg White 1 lb 3.8 oz 560 g 266.7
Egg White Powder 0.7 oz 20 g 9.5
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g 95.2
Procedure
1. Combine almond flour, all-purpose flour, desiccated coconut, and sugar.
2. Add egg white powder to egg whites and make a common meringue with the
sugar.
4. Spread 3 lb 6 oz (1200 g) on one sheet pan prepared with sprayed parchment
paper.
5. Bake at 400°F (200°C) for 12 to 13 minutes. To check for doneness, carefully
lift the parchment paper to look under the cake. The bottom of the cake should
be golden brown.
6. Allow cakes to cool completely and wrap with plastic wrap; store in the freezer.
Buttercream
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 3 lb 9 oz (1640 g)
Sugar #1 0.5 oz 15 g
Sugar #2 8.8 oz 250 g
Water 2.6 oz 75 g
Milk 6.3 oz 180 g
Sugar #3 6.3 oz 180 g
Vanilla Bean 1 each 1 each
Butter, softened 1 lb 10.4 oz 750 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar #1 0.5 oz (15 g) with the egg whites.
2. Sugar #2 8.8 oz (250 g) and water are combined; prepare an Italian meringue,
page 266.
3. Make a crème anglaise with the milk, sugar #3 6.3 oz (180 g), egg yolks, and
vanilla bean.
4. Whip the creme anglaise on high speed until cooled.
5. Cream the butter and add the crème anglaise; fold in the meringue.
Cream Cheese Frosting

Portions: 1
Buttercream 1 lb 454 g
Cream Cheese 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Procedure
1. Using the paddle attachment, soften the cream cheese.
2. Add the buttercream; mix until combined.
Chocolate Buttercream
Yield: 4 lb 1.2 oz (2401 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 4 lb 1.2 oz (2401 g)
Salt 0.2 oz 5.7 g
Vanilla Paste 0.5 14 g
Sugar 14 oz 397 g
Water 3.5 oz 100 g
Butter, softened 2 lb 907 g
Chocolate 64%, melted 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Procedure
1. Whip whole eggs, egg whites, salt, and vanilla paste on high speed.
2. Combine water, sugar, and corn syrup; cook on high heat to 248°F (120°C).
3. Add cooked syrup whipping egg mixture; continue mixing until completely
cooled.
4. Add butter to egg mixture.
5. Add chocolate to the mixer; scrape and mix until combined.
Tres Leches Syrup

Portions: 1
Sweetened Condensed Milk 1 lb 12 oz 894 g
Evaporated Milk 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Milk 1 lb 454 g
Brandy 4 oz 113 g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a heavy-bottom saucepan.
2. Warm syrup but do not boil.
3. For better absorption, the syrup should be warm when applied to the cake.
Key Terms
Two-stage method
Liquid shortenings
Creaming method
Hygroscopic
Inverted sugars
Celiac disease
Ribbon stage
Leaveners
Homogenous
Emulsification
High-fat cakes
Low-fat cakes
Sponge method
Separation foam method
Jaconde method
Chiffon method
Angel food method

1. Describe the difference between high-fat and low-fat cakes.
2. Why is it important to have all ingredients at room temperature?
3. What is the advantage of using the separation foam method instead of the
sponge method?
4. Discuss the methods for testing cake doneness.
5. Identify the five main ingredients in cakes and describe the function they
perform in the recipe.
Assembling Cakes Page 1 of 58
CHAPTER 8
Assembling Cakes
This is the first of four chapters that will build on the foundation of recipes and
procedures from custards, frozen desserts, and cake mixing. These basic recipes
are combined into delicious and creative works of art, to be shared with others for
special occasions.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Split, fill, and decorate a classic cake.
2. Assemble contemporary cakes.
3. Prepare a variety of glazes.
4. Demonstrate entremets assembly.
5. Design and assemble a glacé.
Classic Cakes
Traditionally used for celebrations like birthdays and weddings, cakes are a pastry
that is easily identifiable to most customers. When thinking about cakes, it is
important to consider the different varieties, including classic, wedding,
contemporary, and glacé. The variety doesn't end there: Shapes, sizes, and flavors
can be changed to create new varieties and an interesting assortment for a display
case.
This section covers classic cakes; other cakes are discussed in the following
sections.
Classic cakes, also referred to as layer cakes, are composed of cake, filling, icing,
and garnish. These cakes can be as simple as yellow cake with butter cream
frosting or as elaborate as a Black Forest Torte, containing chocolate cake, cherry
filling, kirsch, whipped cream, brandied cherries, and chocolate shavings. Whether
using a simple or more complex combination of components, the resulting cake
must taste good.
Cake
The primary focus of most decorated cakes is the cake itself. The cake should be
moist and flavorful. In the United States, the preferred style of cake is a high fat.
These cakes have a tender texture and retain moisture well. Low-fat cakes may
also be used and they are an excellent option to provide variety to the mix of
flavors and textures offered. When using low-fat cakes, it is important to
generously brush all layers with a flavored syrup composed of equal parts sugar
and water.
Filling
A classic cake is split and reassembled with layers of cream between the cake
layers. In some instances the filling for the cake may be the same as the icing on
the outside of the cake. A wide variety of mousses and creams from Chapter 5 can
also be used as fillings for cakes. While the filling is often thought of as strictly
providing flavor, it also provides much-needed moisture to the cake. The amount of
filling used between the layers can vary. A cake with even layers of cake and
cream can have a very attractive appearance. If the flavor of the filling is strong or
high in fat, a thinner layer may be used.
Icing
The icing on a cake is used to convey the flavor of the cake and enrobe the cake to
protect it from drying out. As previously mentioned, although the filling and icing
may be the same product, most icings are whipped cream or buttercream. When
using an icing that is different from the filling, the flavors should complement each
other. A smooth layer of the icing on the cake can help to convey the skill of the
pastry chef that assembled the cake. When the cake is sliced, the thickness of the
icing should be the same on the sides and the top of the cake, perfectly enrobing
the cake inside.
Garnishes
The last of the four components is the garnish. It is often the smallest component
of the cake, but it has a large impact. Garnishes can convey the flavor inside the
cake. Similar to the approach of garnishing a dessert, the flavor displayed in the
garnish should be a flavor in the cake. It would not make sense to garnish a carrot
cake with a mint leaf, as this cake does not contain mint. A better garnish would be
marzipan carrots or piped buttercream carrots.
Assembling
Splitting
The first step in assembling a classic cake is to split the cake layers. After baking
the cake, it must be cooled thoroughly to facilitate slicing. Slicing cake layers can
be done using a turntable or on a wood table with a cardboard round and a
serrated knife.
If the cake is not level, trim the top of the cake to square up the edges. Holding the
knife level, place it on the side of the cake at the desired thickness and proceed to
score the side of the cake. Without moving the knife, turn the cake one full
revolution. The knife should be at the same place it started and slightly cut into the
cake. It is important to not use the knife to cut through the cake as you would a loaf
of bread. At this point, use the turntable and knife together to cut through the cake.
Turn the cake ¼ turn and pull the knife back toward you, leaving it still in the cake.
Turn another ¼ turn and pull the knife back again. Continue to follow this
procedure until the knife passes through the middle of the cake. This will take
some practice, but it is the best way to quickly cut an even layer. Carefully place
the sliced layers on cake boards and reserve for assembly.
1. Marking the cake once around
2. Slicing through the cake about halfway
3. Removing the sliced layer

FIGURE 8.1a-c Cake splitting:
Filling
The filling needs to be prepared and ready for application after the layers are split.
If the split layers are not filled quickly, the exposure to the air will cause them to
dry. If the layers are not going to be filled immediately, cover them with plastic
wrap.
Place the cake layer on a cake board slightly larger than the cake. If decorating a
10-in. cake, use a 12-in. board to allow room for the border. Before applying the
filling to the first layer, brush the cake with simple syrup. Place the filling in the
center of the cake. Using an offset pallet knife, spread the icing. Work the icing
from the center out while turning the turntable at the same time. Learning to use
the turntable and pallet knife together will speed up the process. Work the filling to
the edges of the cake. Creating a flat surface with the filling will prepare the cake
for the next level. At this point, a small dome in the surface of the filling will
continue to dome with the following layers, producing a cake that does not have a
flat top. Continue stacking, applying syrup and filling the cake.
1. Cake layer with icing in the center
2. Using the turntable and pallet knife together to spread the icing
3. The finished smooth, flat filling

FIGURE 8.2a–c
Icing and Garnishing

Icing and garnishing are the final steps of decorating a classic cake. The final icing
of the cake should be smooth and free of crumbs. At this point, be sure to clean all
work areas to remove any crumbs that may have resulted from filling the layers.
To prevent incorporating crumbs into the outer icing, a crumb coat can be used.
This is a thin layer of icing applied to the cake that helps to trap crumbs. After the
cake is coated, it is placed in the freezer for 10 minutes to freeze the icing. The
crumb coat provides the foundation for the final icing. Pay close attention to this
layer and make sure it is smooth.
1. Spreading the icing on the top
2. Icing the sides
3. Smoothing the sides
4. Cleaning the top of the cake

FIGURE 8.3a–d Icing a cake:
1. Using a serrated knife to comb the top of the cake
2. Piping the bottom border
3. Piping the top border

FIGURE 8.4a–c Decorating a cake:
After removing the cake from the freezer, begin spreading icing on the top of the
cake in the same manner as the filling. Spread this top layer so it extends past the
sides of the cake. Next, ice the sides of the cake, which will push the overhanging
icing from the top back up. After coating the sides of the cake, use a bench scraper
to smooth the sides of the cake while spinning the turntable. The last step is to
remove the icing that has built up on the top corners of the cake.
Dip the pallet knife in warm water and wipe dry with a clean towel. Holding the
knife even with the top of the cake, pull the pallet knife straight toward you. As the
pallet knife passes the center of the cake, lift it up to the back edge of the knife and
lift off the cake. This will prevent the icing from sticking to the knife. Pulling the
pallet knife straight across the top of the cake will ensure that clean square edges
are present on the cake.
The iced blank cake is ready for decorating. A shell boarder piped along the bottom
of the cake will help to clean the bottom edge where the cake meets the cake
board. Some cakes require a boarder on the top as well. After piping the border,
mark the top of the cake into the desired number of pieces. A 10-in. cake can be
divided into 12 to 16 portions. Once the cake is marked, place a rosette of icing on
each slice and apply the garnish.
Wedding Cakes
When most people think of cakes, two types come to mind: birthday and wedding
cakes. Wedding cakes can be simplistic or extremely elaborate; either way, they
are often the centerpiece of many wedding celebrations. There is a considerable
amount of planning that goes into selling and producing wedding cakes.
Meeting the Client

A wedding cake is different from other custom orders. The order might be placed
as much as a year before the wedding. The first step in the process is to meet with
the couple. At this meeting, a tasting may be arranged, presenting the client with a
sampling of cakes, fillings, icings, and decorations. Many times, the customers
know what flavor and design of cake they would like. A photo portfolio can also be
used to showcase previous cakes that have been made.
Communication with the client must be open and honest. They must notify the
pastry shop if there are any changes, and the pastry shop must do the same.
During this meeting, flavor, design, date, location, number of servings, and price
will be discussed. If the customer knows the flavor and design of the cake, confirm
that the tasting you have presented is what they want and the design is possible,
based on the size of the cake.
Historically, weddings were held in early spring or summer, although trends have
changed over the years and weddings are held year round. Summer and spring
still tend to be the busier time of year for weddings, and, as a result, scheduling of
orders must be considered. The pastry shop has a limited amount of space and
delivery options for wedding cakes, and the design of the cakes ordered for a
particular day will impact how many orders can be taken and filled successfully.
Guiding the customer through the process is critical. There are many variables to
consider when selling a cake, and sometimes the bride and groom may not be
aware of what can and cannot be done. Location not only refers to where the cake
will ultimately be delivered, but where the cake will be presented. A cake made
using buttercream icing will not hold up well for an extended period of time at an
outdoor summer wedding. The buttercream will melt as the cake begins to warm.
Working together with the wedding planner or caterer will ensure that the cake is
stored and presented properly.
Just like the flavors and design, the customer has an idea of what they would like
to pay for the cake. It is important to remember that a wedding cake is a custom
item prepared for a specific order. When pricing the cake, consider the ingredients
that are used and the time spent on assembling and decorating the cake. Wedding
cake prices are based on the number of servings. The diagrams below
demonstrate portioning of different size cake layers to provide a guide for how
many slices each round can yield.
Slices per Tier, 4 in. Tall Layers
Size Round Square
6 in. (15 cm) 12 18
8 in. (20 cm) 24 32
10 in. (25 cm) 38 50
Slices per Tier, 4 in. Tall Layers
Size Round Square

12 in. (30 cm) 56 72
14 in. (35 cm) 78 98
16 in. (40 cm) 100 128
Cake Design
Wedding cakes can come in many shapes and designs. One constant between all
of them is that they are stacked. Cakes placed on cakeboards can be stacked one
tier directly on another or using columns to create spaces between the layers.
Cakes and the fillings are fragile and need to be supported to prevent the tiers from
compressing or sliding. Dowels or columns can provide the support needed to
carry the weight of the upper tiers. The dowels are placed in the finished cake layer
equal to the height of the icing on the cake. The next cake is placed on top and the
procedure is repeated. Using this system, the weight of the cake is supported by
the dowels and not by the cake layers.
Decorating Materials
Traditionally, the color of wedding cakes has been white. This is easily achieved
through the use of buttercreams. Italian buttercream provides the best flavor and
mouthfeel. However, the use of butter requires this cake to be served in an air-
conditioned area. The use of butter also gives a yellow tint to the icing. When a
white icing is needed, use a simple buttercream that is made with shortening. This
will give the cake a pure white color and is more resistant to warmer temperatures
than the Italian buttercream. These icings offer the flexibility of not only enrobing
the cake but also creating borders, flowers, vines, and leaves. Royal icing, made
from powdered sugar and egg whites, is used for string work and attaching
pastillage. Royal icing can be piped, assembled, and dried in advance.
Rolled fondant has increased in popularity due to its ability to enrobe a cake in a
completely smooth layer. After filling the cake layer, it is coated in a smooth layer
of buttercream, then the fondant is applied. Fondant can be used to create a
smooth covered cake, ruffles, swags, and flowers. Cakes enrobed in rolled fondant
require more work and skill and carry a higher price than those coated in
buttercream.
Decorations on wedding cakes can range from fresh flowers to blown sugar swans.
Fresh flowers are an excellent option for decorating the cake, but be sure to use
pesticide-free flowers. Gum paste can be used to create flowers that look real but
are made of edible material. Gum paste is made of sugar, glucose and gums. This
paste can rolled very thin, shaped, and dried. A realistic appearance can be
achieved through the use of edible colors to give the flower a life-like appearance.
Dried gum paste flowers also store well and can be made in advance.
Modeling chocolate, marzipan, pastillage, pulled and blown sugar can also be used
as decorations for wedding cakes. Modeling chocolate, marzipan and pastillage all
hold up well under refrigeration and can be used to create flowers and other
decorations. Pulled and blown sugar can add a truly elegant touch to any cake.
They are both extremely fragile and do not tolerate humidity well. Many of the
decorating techniques found in Chapters 13 and 14 can be used to create

decorations for wedding cakes.
Contemporary Cakes
Contemporary cakes, often referred to as entremets, are cakes that contain layers
of mousse, creams, and cake that are coated in a glaze. Entremets have many
elements that are found in classic cakes, with higher percentage of creams to
cake. They utilize a variety of flavors, textures, and garnishes. Shape can vary,
based on the creativity of the chef—almost any shape can be made from stainless
steel or silicone. The flavors and textures can be combined to create different
portion sizes from whole cakes and individual pastries to petits fours.
Components
Entremets can have as few as five components: base, cake, cream, coating, and
garnish. The base of the cake can be used to introduce texture into the entremets.
There are many different variations of quantity of components and types of
components. The goal is to create a cake that has an excellent flavor and attractive
look. In some cases, too many layers can be placed inside the cake, making it
difficult to cut a clean slice.
Base
Bases can be made from rolled-out streusel or tart dough. Some bases use a
process that involves taking the baked dough and cutting or breaking the dough
into small pieces and combining it with chocolate, nut pastes and butter to bind the
base. Reconstructed bases add a different texture to the cake. If a soft texture for
the cake is desired, the base can be a layer of cake. The base layer not only
provides flavor and texture, it helps to make the cake servable.
Insert
Mise en place is very important when assembling entremets. Equipment and
recipes must be gathered and ready to assemble. In some instances, the
entremets contain an insert. The insert is a combination of cake layers and creams
assembled together and placed into the center of the entremets. The insert may
have cake on the bottom with a layer of cream on top or cream sandwiched
between two layers of cake. Precision in layering the insert will add to the visual
appeal of the sliced entremet.
Cake
The other baked layer found in an entremet is the cake. Even if cake is used as the
base, another layer or two will be used inside the cake. Sponge, pain de genes,
and even a thin layer of brownies can be used as the cake. The cake layer needs
to contribute flavor to the cake as well as lighten the cake. The higher percentage
of cream in the cake means a high percentage of fat. This can make the cake feel
too rich and heavy.
Creams
The next components are the creams. Many times, two or more will be used. To
lighten the texture of the cake, an aerated cream, such as chocolate mousse, fruit
mousse, or Bavarian will be used. These can be combined with a heavier cream,
like a creméux, panna cotta or gelée to introduce another texture or color. Much of
the flavor will come from the creams.
Changing the ratios of the components or changing the recipes can adjust the
flavor of the cake. It is easier to change the amount of creméux in the cake rather
than reformulate the recipe. When building the entremets, it is best to scale the
amount of each layer by weight to ensure each cake looks the same when cut and
the flavors will be consistent between batches.
Coating
In the same way the classic cakes are covered with icing to protect the cake from
drying out, entremets are sprayed with a coating of chocolate, giving the cake a
velvet appearance, or the cake can be glazed. Glazing the cake will provide more
protection from drying out and it also gives a mirror-like finish.
Garnish
After the glaze has set, the cake can be garnished. Garnishes used on the outside
of the cake should clearly reflect the flavors inside the cake. A cake containing
strawberry and pistachios can be garnished with pink macarons sprinkled with
pistachios and fresh strawberries. Garnishes need to be edible and able to
withstand the humidity encountered in a refrigerator. A light and wispy sugar twist
may look beautiful, but it will quickly become dull and melt in the refrigerator.
FIGURE 8.5 Garnished pistachio strawberry entremets
Assembly
Entremets can be assembled in two ways: top to bottom or bottom to top. Most
cakes can be built either way, and much of the decision comes down to personal
preference. The bottom-to-top method allows for a more tender base layer. The
base is in place at the start of assembling and the rest of the cake is built on top.
During the freezing of a bottom-to-top cake, the cream recesses slightly. This
leaves the cake with a top that is not flat. When using the top-to-bottom method,
the cake is built upside down, and the top of the cake will remain completely flat,
making glazing easier. This method is used when assembling individual portions in
flexipans.
Bottom-to-Top Method
In the bottom-to-top method the cake is assembled right side up. Place the
baked base layer on a silpat-lined sheet pan, followed by the metal cake ring.
Proceed to make the chocolate mousse. The mousse needs to be made à la
minute and the insert should be stacked in the freezer ready for assembly. Pour
some of the mousse into the prepared cake ring. Using a plastic bowl scraper,
bring the mousse up the sides of the ring. Smoothing the mousse up the sides of
the ring will prevent large air bubbles from being trapped in the mousse. Large
pockets of air can become trapped when additional mousse is piped in the mold.
These are difficult to fix once the cake is unmolded. The additional step of
smoothing the mousse will guarantee a smooth surface ready for glazing. Firmly
press the insert into the mousse, making sure it is centered in the ring. Add enough
mousse to fill the ring and smooth the top with a pallet knife; immediately place in
the freezer.
1. Placing the ring over the base on the silpat
2. Placing mousse into the ring
3. Placing the insert
4. Filling the remainder of the mousse
5. Cleaning the top of the cake

FIGURE 8.6a–e Bottom-to-top method:
Top-to-Bottom Method
The top-to-bottom method assembles the cake upside down, and is essentially
the same procedure. The base is baked and cooled, insert is assembled and in the
freezer, and mousse is scaled. Place a metal cake ring onto a piece of plastic wrap
and place onto a flat sheet pan. Once the mousse is mixed, deposit enough to fill
the ring slightly more than one-third. Using a plastic bowl scraper, bring the
mousse up the sides of the ring. Press the insert into the mousse, being careful to
not press the mousse all the way to the bottom of the ring. Add more of the
mousse to almost fill the mold completely; smooth if necessary. Place the base
onto the cake and press down with a cake cardboard. Clean any extra mousse
from the base side of the mold with an offset pallet knife, and immediately freeze
the cake.
1. Filling with the mousse
2. Placing the insert
3. Adding more mousse and smoothing
4. Placing the base on top
5. Cleaning the cake before freezing

FIGURE 8.7a–e Upside down cake assembly:
Unmolding
After the cake has had sufficient time to freeze through to the center, 1 hour in a
blast chiller or 4 hours in a standard freezer, the cake can be unmolded. To unmold
the cake, place it on a ring that is 1 in. (2.5 cm) smaller than the mold used for the
cake. In this example, the cake is assembled in an 8-in. (20-cm) mold, so a 7-in.
(18-cm) cake ring will be used. Place the smaller ring on a turntable and place the
frozen cake on top of the ring. While slowly turning the table, use a blowtorch or
heat gun to warm the metal ring. After turning and warming the cake ring for two
turns, check to see if the ring will slide down. If not, apply more heat, being careful
to not completely melt the chocolate mousse. Slide the ring down and place the
unmolded entremets in the freezer. The cake can now be stored or glazed, thawed,
and served.
1. Cake on rack, glaze in sauce gun
2. Glazing sides
3. Glazing top
FIGURE 8.8a–c Proper glazing technique:
Glazing
When applying glaze to the cake, the cake must be frozen. A frozen cake will
maintain a clean edge and allow a pallet knife to be passed over the top of the
cake to remove extra glaze. The temperature is critical to properly applying a thin
coating to the entremets. Glaze that is to cool will not flow evenly across the top
and down the side of the cake, due to the gelatin setting. A temperature that is too
hot will melt the mousse layer and release fat into the glaze, creating fat streaks. A
glaze that is too thin will expose the corners of the cream underneath and run
down the sides of the cake. This will not sufficiently cover the sides, and any
irregularities in the layer underneath will show through the glaze. Each glaze recipe
will specify the optimal temperature for applying the glaze.
To apply the glaze to the cake, make sure it is at the correct temperature. Glaze
can be poured directly from a measure with a pouring spout or using a sauce gun.
Using a sauce gun will reduce the amount of air bubbles in the glaze. When the
glaze is placed in the gun, any air in the glaze will rise to the top; the sauce gun
releases the glaze from the bottom of the container.
Place the frozen cake on a metal glazing rack and apply the glaze to the edges of
the cake. Be sure to completely cover the side of the cake—there is only one
chance to do this. Going back and applying another layer of glaze will create a
rough surface and a thick layer of glaze. After coating the sides, immediately glaze
the top of the cake. With an offset pallet knife as wide as the cake, quickly pass
over the top of the cake to remove any excess glaze. Place the glazed cake in the
refrigerator for 10 minutes to set the glaze before moving off of the glazing rack.
Glacé
Another style of contemporary cake is glacé, a cake made using churned or still
frozen components. Glacé also contain a coulis, base layer, glaze, and garnish.
There are many similarities between entremets and glacé; the base serves the
functions of flavor, ability to transfer the cake, and texture. Enrobing the cake in a
glaze will protect the cake in the freezer, add flavor, and give the cake a glossy
shine.
Base
The base of the glacé can be made from the same components used in entremets
production, baked tart dough, sponge cakes, or reconstructed base. Recipes will
vary slightly from those used in entremets production to account for being served
frozen. The colder temperature of the base or cake may not be suitable for cutting
or eating. The base provides flavor and texture to the cake and needs to taste
good as well as be edible when frozen. Increasing the sugar or adding vegetable
oils to cakes and doughs will help create a tender frozen base. While increasing
the sugar will make the base sweeter, the sweetness will not be easily detected
due to the low temperature of the cake. The cold temperature of the cake will
reduce the intensity of the flavors.
Coulis
The coulis is a thin fruit-flavored layer inside the cake that has a large percentage
of sugar to prevent the layer from freezing. Because the coulis is a thin layer, it
needs to be flavorful and a contrasting color to the layers of the glacé. The higher
percentage of sugar and the addition of alcohol prevents coulis from freezing. A
frozen coulis layer that does not contain enough sugar or alcohol will not cut clean
and will have an unpleasant icy mouthfeel.
Frozen Components
Glacé can be made using any of the components from Chapter 6. Ice creams,
sorbets, gelato, parfaits, and semifreddos are used together to create different
textures inside the cake. It is not necessary to use more than one frozen
component. Baked Alaska is a simple form of a glacé. It is composed of cake and
ice cream, coated in meringue. The use of multiple frozen components allows the
introduction of different flavors and contrasting colors.
Coating
The coating on the cake protects the glacé from drying out in the freezer, and adds
flavor and color to the cake. Meringue and glaze provide the best protection to the
interior components. Airbrushed designs can also be placed on the cake before
glazing. The glacé can also be sprayed with cocoa butter spray giving the cake a
velvet-like appearance.
Garnish
Frozen cakes have a longer shelf life than the other cakes discussed in this
chapter. The garnish will need to withstand being frozen, and it is important to think
about what will happen to the garnish as the cake is thawing. The garnishes are
small and delicate. They will thaw quickly when the cake is removed from the
freezer and served. Chocolate decorations, dried meringues, or cookies are
recommended for garnishing glacé.
Assembly
Glacé are built in metal or silicone molds. A bombe mold is often used for glacé. It
is a stainless steel metal mold shaped like a half dome. Different size domes can
be used in a system to create the layers inside the cake. The number of
components, flavors, and colors will dictate the order the cake is assembled.
Working with the flavors of pistachio, yogurt, and strawberry, we can design how
the glacé will be assembled. The components for this glacé will be strawberry
sorbet, pistachio parfait, frozen yogurt, and strawberry coulis. The colors will work
well together in any combination. Even though the coulis is red and the sorbet is
red, the coulis will have a different shade and will contrast nicely against the
sorbet.
Glacés are typically built using the top-to-bottom assembly method. Mise en place
for glacé assembly includes freezing all molds, spatulas, and bowls. Due to the
high sugar percentage in still frozen desserts, it is recommended to use the parfait
as the inner layer of the cake. Using the smallest of the three molds, fill it with the
parfait mixture and freeze. A blast chiller is best to thoroughly freeze the layers.
This will also allow additional handling time for assembly due to the hardness of
the layers.
After the parfait is completely frozen, it must be unmolded. To unmold the parfait,
use 100°F (38°C) water—the temperature of the water is important to prevent
melting the parfait too much. After unmolding, place the layer back in the freezer
for 10 minutes. Frozen yogurt will be the next layer. Once the parfait is back in the
freezer, process the yogurt in an ice cream machine. Remove the next size mold
and spread the churned yogurt into the mold. Press the parfait into the yogurt,
finish this layer with thin coating of the yogurt, and return to the blast chiller or
freezer.
Unmold the bombe using the same process used for the parfait and place it back in
the freezer. The next layer will be the strawberry coulis. This layer is applied the
same as a glaze. After 10 minutes in the freezer, place the glacé on a glazing rack
and pour a layer of strawberry coulis over the top. Transfer the glacé back to the
freezer to set the coulis.
While the coulis is freezing, process the strawberry sorbet. Repeat the process
used for placing the frozen yogurt layer. Before placing the mold back in the
freezer, press the base into the bottom of the cake. Return the cake to the blast
chiller and allow it to freeze completely.
The final step is to prepare the glacé for glazing. Remove the cake from the mold.
Place the cake on a glazing rack and return it to the freezer for 10 minutes. When
using a glaze, refer to the glaze recipe to determine the proper temperature for
use. Pour the glaze over the cake and be sure to cover the entire cake in one pass.
The half sphere shape of the cake makes glazing easy, and there is no need to
use an offset pallet knife to remove extra glaze. Allow the glaze to set in the
refrigerator for 5 minutes and then transfer the finished cake to a gold cardboard.
Troubleshooting for Cake Assembly
Entremets glaze is 1. The glaze was too cold. Check temperature of glaze.
too thick. 2. The recipe was not scaled correctly or the glaze was
cooked for too long. Make sure recipe was scaled
correctly and the procedure was followed.
Entremets layers The insert layers were too cold when assembled. Make
separate when cut. sure the layers are firm and set in the refrigerator before
stacking. If the layers are frozen, allow them to temper so
they will adhere to each other before inserting into the
cake.
Top of entremets is 1. The mousse or bavarian slightly deflated before

concave. freezing, this is a normal occurrence. Use the top-to-
bottom method.
2. The bavarian or mousse deflated due to an extended
time at room temperature. Transfer the cake to the
freezer quickly after assembling.
There are crumbs in 1. The work station was not cleaned prior to starting the
final coat of icing. final coat. Clean work area before applying final coat.
2. A crumb coat was not used. Use a crumb coat.
Buttercream is The buttercream is not properly aerated before use. Mix

difficult to spread on on low speed with a paddle to soften the buttercream.
cake.
Troubleshooting for Cake Assembly
Air pockets form in 1. Line molds carefully with a thin layer before filling.
the outside of glacé 2. Reserve some of the mixture used to fill the mold and
and entremets. fill in the air pockets.
Recipes
Chocolate Peanut Glacé
Portions: 1
Portion size: 7.9-in. (20-cm) hemisphere
Yield description: One 7.9-in. (20-cm) hemisphere
Caramel Peanut Ice Cream, page 218 2 lb 3 oz 981 g
Chocolate Parfait, page 172 2 lb 7 oz 1116 g
Chocolate Glaze (glacé), page 219 2 lb 6 oz 1082 g
Chocolate Brioche Base, page 218 11.5 oz 325 g
Chocolate Decor
Procedure
1. Churn the caramel peanut ice cream and fill a 6.3-in. (16-cm) hemisphere mold.
2. Freeze and unmold, place back into freezer.
3. Prepare the chocolate parfait and spread a layer inside of a 7.9-in. (20-cm)
hemisphere mold.
4. Insert the caramel peanut ice cream into the chocolate parfait.
5. Spread a layer of the parfait on top of the ice cream insert.
6. Place the base in the bottom of the mold, freeze.
7. Unmold the finished cake and apply the glaze.
8. Apply chocolate decorations.
FIGURE 8.9 Chocolate Peanut Glacé
Caramel Peanut Ice Cream

Portions: 1
Portion size: 6.3-in. (16-cm) hemisphere
Yield description: One 6.3-in. (16-cm) hemisphere
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Water #1 0.5 oz 15 g
Milk 8.47 oz 240 g
Water #2 12.35 oz 350 g
Nonfat Milk Solids 2.82 oz 80 g
Peanuts, toasted 3.53 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Caramelize the sugar with water #1; once a deep caramel is reached pour onto
a silpat.
2. After the caramel cools, grind in a food processor.
3. Use the ice cream base process (page 158). Use the caramel made in the
previous step in place of the granulated sugar in the process.
4. Place the peanuts in Vitamix; pour enough of the hot ice cream base to cover
the nuts.
5. Blend until smooth.
8. Mature for 6 to 12 hours before churning.
Chocolate Brioche Base

Yield: 11.5 oz (325 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 7.1-in. (18-cm) layer
Yield description: One 7.1-in. (18-cm) layer
Brioche, page 78 5.3 oz 150 g
Dark Chocolate 1.8 oz 50 g
Butter 0.9 oz 25 g
Procedure
1. Cube the brioche into ¼-in. (6-mm) pieces. Toast until golden brown.
2. Melt the dark chocolate, peanut butter and butter.
3. Gently fold the cooled brioche into the melted chocolate mixture.
4. Press into a 7.1-in. (18-cm) disc and freeze.
5. Reserve for assembly.
Chocolate Glaze (glacé)

Portions: 1

Water 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 10 oz 284 g
Glucose 10 oz 284 g
Vodka 2 oz 57 g
Gelatin Sheets, bloomed 5.5 each 5.5 each
Sweetened Condensed Milk 6.75 oz 191 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, glucose, vodka, and sugar in a saucepan, heat to a boil.
2. Add gelatin and sweetened condensed milk.
3. Add cocoa powder and strain through a chinois, do not push through the
chinois.
4. Cool to 82°F (27°C) for glazing.
Strawberry Pistachio Glacé

Portions: 1
Portion size: 7 in. (17.8 cm) × 2 in. (5.5 cm) high square
Yield description: One 7 in. (17.8 cm) × 2 in. (5.5 cm) high square
Strawberry Sorbet, page 175 2 lb 4 oz 1038 g
Frozen Yogurt, page 171 2 lb 2.7 oz 995.7 g
Pistachio Gelato, page 168 2 lb 3 oz 1002 g
Pistachio Parfait, page 221 2 lb 7.6 oz 1135 g
Cocoa Butter Spray, White Chocolate, page 436
Tropical Glaze, page 224, Strawberry Variation 1 lb 8 oz 695 g
French Macaron, page 340 2 lb 10 oz 1122 g
Procedure
1. Prepare macarons. Add red food color to make the macarons pink.
2. Prepare the strawberry sorbet. Mold in a 6.25 in. (16.8 cm) square frame × 0.5
in (12 mm) thick square frame and freeze.
3. Prepare the pistachio parfait and freeze in a 6.25 in. (16.8 cm) square frame ×
0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick square frame.
4. Prepare the Strawberry glaze using the tropical glaze recipe; replace all purée
with strawberry purée. Reserve for cake assembly.
5. Cut the pistachio dacquoise 6.25 in. (16.8 cm) square and place on the
pistachio parfait.
6. Prepare the frozen yogurt and line a 7 in. (17.8 cm) × 2 in. (5.5 cm) high square
mold.
7. Insert the pistachio parfait and pistachio dacquoise (assembling using the
upside down method). Place in the freezer to set.
8. Unmold the strawberry sorbet and apply the strawberry glaze.
9. Spray the frozen yogurt with a white cocoa butter spray.
10. Place the strawberry sorbet on top of the frozen yogurt.
11. Place the pink macarons around the side of the cake.
FIGURE 8.10 Strawberry Pistachio Glacé
Pistachio Parfait
Yield: 2 lb 7.6 oz (1135 g)
Portions: 1

Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Water 2.5 oz 70 g
Heavy Cream, whipped 1 lb 6.9 oz 650 g
Pistachio Paste 1.6 oz 45 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar in a saucepan.
2. Make a pâte à bombe with the egg yolks and sugar mixture.
3. When pâte à bombe is completely cooled, add the pistachio paste.
4. Fold the cream into the pâte à bombe.
5. Mold and freeze.
Pistachio Dacquoise
Portions: 1
Portion size: Half sheet pan
Yield description: 1 half sheet pan
Sugar 2.5 oz 70 g
Pistachio Flour 4.9 oz 140 g
Procedure
1. Sift almond flour, pistachio flour, and powdered sugar.
3. Fold sifted flour mixture into meringue.
4. Spread batter onto a silpat-lined half sheet pan.
6. Allow cake to cool completely and wrap with plastic wrap; store in the freezer.
Bird of Paradise
Portions: 1
Portion size: 7-in. (17.8-cm) ring
Yield description: One 7-in. (17.8-cm) ring
Mango Ice Cream, page 170 2 lb 3.3 oz 1002 g
Banana Mousse Glacé, page 173 2 lb 10 oz 1207 g
Coconut Sorbet, page 176 2 lb 3.2 oz 999.6 g
Cherry Coulis, page 224 9.9 oz 282 g
Tropical Glaze, page 224 1 lb 8 oz 695 g
Coconut Dacquoise, page 199 3 lb 6 oz 1635 g
Procedure
1. Prepare the coconut dacquoise and pipe an 8-in. (20-cm) diameter circle with a
0.4-in. (1-cm) plain tip.
2. Prepare cherry coulis.
3. Fill a 6.5-in. (16.5-cm) ring mold halfway with the banana mousse glacé and
freeze.
4. Fill the remaining space in the mold with the coconut sorbet and freeze.
5. Unmold and pour the cherry coulis over the insert and return to the freezer.
6. Line a 7-in. (17.8-cm) mold with the mango ice cream; press the insert into the
mold and freeze.
7. Unmold and apply the tropical glaze.
8. Place the glazed ice cream cake on the coconut dacquoise.
FIGURE 8.11 Bird of Paradise
Tropical Glaze
Portions: 1
Sugar 3 oz 85 g
Gelatin Sheets 5 each 5 each
Water, ice cold 1.4 oz 40 g
Neutral Glaze 2.1 oz 60 g
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in 1.4 oz (40 g) water.
2. Combine water, sugar, and glucose in a saucepan; melt over low heat.
3. Add purées to warmed sugar solution.
4. Add gelatin to saucepan and dissolve.
5. Using an immersion blender, incorporate neutral glaze.
6. Strain and cool to room temperature.
Variation
The purées in this recipe can be changed to any flavor.
Cherry Coulis
Yield: 9.9 oz (282 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 9.9 oz (282 g)
Cherry Purée 8.6 oz 245 g
Pectin NH 0.04 oz 1g
Sugar 0.2 oz 6g
Procedure
1. Combine purée with Trimoline in a saucepan and warm.
2. Mix pectin with sugar and add to purée.
3. Bring the mixture to a boil, whisking constantly.
4. Cool completely before using.
Carrot Cake
Portions: 1
Portion size: 8-in. (20-cm) round
Yield description: One 8-in. (20-cm) round
Carrot Cake, one 8-in. round 7 lb 2 oz 3257 g
Cream Cheese Frosting 2 lb 8 oz 1130 g
Walnuts, toasted
Marzipan 4 lb 12 oz 2180 g
Procedure
1. Split the carrot cake into two equal layers.
2. Spread a layer of the cream cheese icing and place the second layer on top.
3. Continue icing the cake using the method on page 206.
4. Apply the toasted walnuts on the side of the cake.
5. Roll the marzipan to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick; cut and apply to the top of the cake.
6. Pipe a border around the bottom and the top of the cake.
FIGURE 8.12 Carrot cake
Strawberry Lemon
Portions: 1
Portion size: 8-in. (20-cm) round
Yield description: One 8-in. (20-cm) round
Décor Sponge, page 197
Genoise, page 192 2 lb 13 oz 1295 g
Clear Glaze, page 109 1 lb 11.7 oz 787 g
Strawberry Marmalade
Lemon Mousse, page 137 3 lb 2 oz 1418 g
Strawberry Mousse, page 136 3 lb 2 oz 1418 g
Lemon Simple Syrup 14 oz 410 g
Procedure
1. Slice two layers of the honey genoise ¼ in. (6 mm) thick; brush with lemon
simple syrup and spread a thin layer of strawberry marmalade on each layer.
2. Trim the décor sponge 1.25 in. (3.2 cm) tall and line the 8-in. (20-cm) cake ring.
3. Place a layer of the honey genoise in the bottom.
4. Pipe two rings of lemon mousse; alternate with strawberry mousse.
5. Place the second layer of genoise in the cake ring and repeat piping the lemon
and strawberry mousse.
6. Fill the mold to the top with the strawberry mousse and freeze.
7. Glaze the top of the cake with a clear glaze.
FIGURE 8.13 Strawberry Lemon
Peach Melba Charlotte

Portions: 1
Portion size: 7-in. (18-cm) square mold
Yield description: One 7-in. (18-cm) square mold
Pain de Genes 2 lb 10 oz 1205 g
Raspberry Marmalade
Poached Peaches, page 286

Fresh Raspberries
Vanilla Bavaria, page 139 3 lb 1360 g
Clear Glaze, page 109 1 lb 11.7 oz 787 g
Procedure
1. Peel the peaches and remove the pit; cut into ½-in. (12-mm) cubes.
2. Prepare the poaching liquid (page 267); add two sprigs of mint.
3. Poach the peaches until tender; chill on an ice bath.
4. Spread a very thin layer of raspberry marmalade on the pain de genes and
stack to create four layers and freeze.
5. Slice ¼-in. (6-mm) thick layers of the pain de genes and arrange in 7-in. (18-
cm) mold.
6. Prepare the vanilla Bavarian, fill the mold halfway.
7. Place the poached peaches into the mold and cover with remaining Bavarian.
8. Lastly, place another layer of pain de genes on the mold and freeze.
9. Unmold the cake and brush the top with clear glaze.
10. Apply white chocolate plaquettes with raspberry powder to the sides of the
cake.
FIGURE 8.14 Peach Melba Charlotte
Mango Chocolate Entremets

Yield: 0.0 lb (00 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 8-in. (20-cm) hexagon
Yield description: One 8-in. (20-cm) hexagon
Reconstructed Hazelnut Base, page 229 8.5 oz 240 g
Devil's Food, page 191 4 lb 1 1865

oz g
Chocolate Mango Creméux, page 230 8 oz 230 g
Mango Curd, page 230 4 oz 115 g
Anglaise-Based Chocolate Mousse, page 135, replace the

rum with mango purée
Chocolate Mirror Glaze, page 231 2 lb 920 g
Procedure
1. Assemble the insert by filling a 7.5-in. (19-cm) round mold with 8 oz (230 g)
chocolate mango creméux and 4 oz (115 g) mango curd, freeze.
2. Slice the devil's food cake into ¼-in. (6-mm) thick layers and place one layer on
top of the frozen creméux and curd mixture.
3. Prepare the 8-in. (20-cm) hexagon mold and mousse; assemble using the
upside-down method.
4. Freeze.
5. After unmolding, glaze the cake while frozen.
FIGURE 8.15 Mango Chocolate Entremets
Hazelnut Dough
Yield: 1 lb 8 oz (698.7 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 1 lb 8 oz (698.7 g)
Yield description: 1 portion at 1 lb 8 oz (698.7 g)
Butter 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 4.6 oz 130 g
Hazelnut Flour 3.2 oz 90 g
Cake Crumbs 1.1 oz 30 g
Baking Powder 0.13 oz 3.7 g
Procedure
1. Creaming method.
2. Refrigerate dough for 2 to 3 hours.
3. Roll 8 oz (240 g) to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and bake.
4. While the dough is still warm, cut into 1/4-in. (6-mm) squares and cool.
5. Reserve for reconstructed hazelnut dough.
Reconstructed Hazelnut Dough

Portions: 1
Hazelnut Dough 8.5 oz 240 g
Cassonade 1.8 oz 50 g
Butter 2.5 oz 70 g
Note: Pâte Sablée, Chocolate Pâte Sablée, Short Dough, Chocolate Short Dough or
Graham Cracker Dough can be used in place of the Hazelnut Dough.
Procedure
1. Combine cassonade and hazelnut dough in a bowl.
2. Melt chocolate and butter.
3. Fold melted chocolate mixture into hazelnut dough.
4. Press gently into cake ring.
Chocolate Mango Creméux

Portions: 1

Cassonade 1.2 oz 35 g
Procedure
1. Crème anglaise method using the heavy cream, passion fruit purée, mango
purée, cassonade, and egg yolks.
2. Emulsify creméux with chocolate.
3. Pour into mold and freeze.
Mango Curd
Yield: 12.2 oz (350 g)
Portions: 1
Eggs 1.9 oz 55 g
Sugar 1.6 oz 45 g
Butter 1.9 oz 55 g
Procedure
1. Curd method, page 124.
2. Mold and freeze for entremets assembly.
Chocolate Mirror Glaze

Yield: 2 lb (920 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 2 lb (920 g)
Water 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 9.2 oz 260 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, heavy cream, sugar, and glucose in a saucepan.
2. Cook to 215°F (102°C).
3. Whisk in cocoa powder and gelatin.
4. Strain through a chinois; do not press glaze through the chinois. This will cause
the glaze to be too thick and have a coarse texture from the cocoa powder.
5. Cool and use glaze at 95°F (35°C).
Milk Chocolate Blood Orange Entremets

Portions: 1
Portion size: 7-in. (18-cm) ring
Yield description: One 7-in. (18-cm) ring
Crispy Hazelnut Base, page 234 13 oz 380 g
Flourless Chocolate Cake, page 234 5.3 oz 150 g
Caramel Creméux, page 235 4 oz 120 g
Pectin Fruit Gelee, page 108 Using Blood Orange Puree
Milk Chocolate Mousse, page 235
Caramel Glaze, page 236
Procedure
1. Assemble the insert by pouring 3.5 oz (100 g) of blood orange pectin gel into a
6.5-in. (16.5-cm) ring mold and refrigerate until set.
2. Next fill the mold with 4 oz (120 g) of caramel creméux.
3. Place the flourless chocolate cake cut to fit the bottom of the ring mold on the
creméux and freeze.
4. Once the insert is completely frozen, prepare the milk chocolate mousse.
5. Fill the 7-in. (18-cm) ring mold and press the insert into the mousse.
6. Assemble the crispy hazelnut base and cut to fit the 7-in. (18-cm) ring mold.
7. Place the crispy hazelnut base even with the top of the mold.
8. Freeze until completely set.
9. Unmold and finish with the caramel glaze.
FIGURE 8.16 Milk Chocolate Blood Orange
Flourless Chocolate Cake
Portions: 1
Sugar 6.3 oz 180 g
Procedure
1. Make a French meringue with the sugar and egg whites.
2. Once the egg whites are whipped to stiff peaks, add the yolks.
3. Fold the cocoa powder into the whipped egg mixture.
4. Spread onto silpat-lined half sheet pan.
Crispy Hazelnut Base

Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 13 oz (380 g)
Butter 1.9 oz 55 g
Glucose 1.6 oz 45 g
Powder Sugar 4.6 oz 130 g
Procedure
1. Combine butter and glucose in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. Add powdered sugar and hazelnut flour to saucepan; stir to combine.
3. Roll between two silpats to a thickness of ⅛ in. (3 mm).
4. Bake at 350°F (176°C) until golden brown.
5. Cut into desired shape while warm; reserve for assembly.
Caramel Creméux
Portions: 1
Glucose 1.4 oz 40 g
Water 0.5 oz 15 g
Milk 5.5 oz 155 g
Salt 0.05 oz 1.5 g
Procedure
1. Make a caramel with sugar #1, water, and glucose.
2. Deglaze the pan with the heavy cream and milk; add the vanilla bean.
3. Over a low heat, warm the mixture until all the caramel has dissolved.
4. Combine the egg yolks with sugar #2
5. Finish cooking using the crème anglaise method (page 124).
6. Add the gelatin and salt, strain through a chinois.
Milk Chocolate Mousse

Portions: 1
Milk 2.6 oz 75 g

Heavy Cream, whipped to soft peaks 9.7 oz 275 g
Procedure
1. Prepare a crème anglaise (page 124) with the milk, heavy cream, and egg
yolks.
2. Add the gelatin and strain.
3. Emulsify the crème anglaise with the milk and dark chocolate.
4. Cool to 86°F (30°C).
5. Fold in the whipped cream.
Caramel Glaze
Yield: 1 lb 12 oz (796.5 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 11.1 oz 315 g
Water #1 3 oz 85 g
Water #2 4.6 oz 130 g
Tapioca Starch 0.6 oz 16.5 g
Procedure
1. Combine the first water—3 oz (85 g)—and sugar in a saucepan and
caramelize.
2. Deglaze the caramel with the heavy cream.
3. Cook over low heat to dissolve any solid caramel.

4. Make a slurry with the second water—4.6 oz (130 g)—and tapioca starch.
5. Whisk the slurry into the saucepan and bring to a boil.
6. Add the gelatin and sweetened condensed milk.
7. Blend with an immersion blender and strain through a chinois.
8. Reserve for assembly; glaze at 86°F (30°C).
Apricot Milk Chocolate Entremets

Portions: 1
Portion size: 7 in. (18 cm)
Yield description: 1 portion at 7 in. (18 cm)
Chocolate Streusel, page 238 14 oz 400 g
Yogurt Panna Cotta, page 239 10 oz 306 g
Pectin Fruit Gelee, page 108, using Black Currant

Puree
Milk Chocolate Mousse, page 235
Roasted Apricots, page 238 14 apricot

halves
Pistachio Dacquoise, page 221
Milk Chocolate Cocoa Butter Spray, page 436
Procedure
1. Prepare the black currant gel; pour a thin layer into 5.75-in. (14-cm) round
silicone mold and freeze.
2. Arrange the roasted apricots on black currant gel.
3. Fill the mold with 7 oz (200 g) of yogurt panna cotta and freeze.
4. Cut the pistachio dacquoise to 5.75 in. (14 cm) round.
5. Unmold the panna cotta insert and place onto the pistachio dacquoise; reserve
in freezer for assembly.
6. Prepare the milk chocolate mousse.
7. Assemble the entremets using the upside-down method.
8. Fill the mold halfway with the chocolate mousse; place the insert so it is even
with the bottom of the mold.
9. Place the assembled cake in the freezer.
10. Unmold and spray with milk chocolate spray.
11. Place the sprayed cake on the Chocolate Streusel base.
FIGURE 8.17 Apricot Milk Chocolate
Chocolate Streusel
Portions: 1
Butter, soft 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients with a paddle attachment mix until combined.
2. Roll into tubes and freeze.
3. Process the frozen tubes through a meat grinder; return to the freezer.
4. Place the frozen dough into a 7-in. (18-cm) metal ring and bake at 300°F (150°
C) for 12 to 15 minutes.
Roasted Apricots
Portions: 1
Portion size: 14 apricot halves
Yield description: 1 portion at 14 apricot halves
Apricots, cut in half, pit removed 7 each 7 each
Butter 1 oz 28 g
Vanilla Sugar 1 oz 28 g
Procedure
1. Melt the butter and pour over the apricot halves.
2. Add the sugar and mix to combine.
3. Place on a silpat-lined sheet pan.
5. Cool and slice the apricots; reserve for assembly.
Yogurt Panna Cotta

Portions: 1
Sugar 1.6 oz 45 g
Vanilla Bean, split and scraped ½ each ½ each
Water 0.5 oz 15 g
Greek Yogurt 2% 4.1 oz 115 g
Yogurt Powder 0.25 oz 7.5 g
Procedure
2. Combine heavy cream, sugar, and vanilla bean in a saucepan.
3. Heat to dissolve sugar.
4. Add bloomed gelatin to warm cream mixture; cool to 95°F (35°C).
5. Add yogurt powder and Greek yogurt; remove vanilla bean.
6. Mix with an immersion blender.
Banana Lime Entremets

Portions: 1
Portion size: 9.8 in x 3.5 in (25 cm x 9 cm)
Yield description: 1 portion at 9.8 in x 3.5 in (25 cm x 9 cm)
Reconstructed Lime Streusel Base, page 242 9 oz 255 g
Coconut Biscuit, page 242 1 lb 3 oz 555 g
Banana Creméux, page 243 8 oz 225 g
Lime Curd, page 243 8 oz 225 g
White Chocolate Coconut Mousse, page 136
Banana Glaze, page 244
Procedure
1. Assemble the insert by pouring lime curd in a 3.5 × 10 in. (8.9 × 25 cm)
rectangular mold, place in the refrigerator to set.
2. Top the lime curd with banana creméux and freeze.
3. Cut the coconut biscuit to the same size as the curd mold; reserve for
assembly.
4. Assemble the reconstructed lime struessel base; reserve in the freezer for
assembly.
5. Prepare the coconut white chocolate mousse.
6. Spread a thin layer of mousse on the coconut biscuit and attach the curd to the
cake.
7. Assemble the cake using the upside-down method; fill the mold with coconut
white chocolate mousse.
8. Press the insert into the mold.
9. Spread a thin layer of the mousse.
10. Insert the reconstructed lime streusel base and freeze.
11. Unmold the entremets and apply banana glaze.
FIGURE 8.18 Banana Lime
Lime Streusel
Portions: 1
Butter, cold, cubed 2.8 oz 80 g
Brown Sugar 2.8 oz 80 g
Lime Zest 2 each 2 each
Dessicated Coconut 2.8 oz 80 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients with a paddle attachment.
2. Spread onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and bake at 350°F (180°C).
Reconstructed Lime Streusel Base

Yield: 9 oz (255 g)
Portions: 1
Lime Streusel, above 5.1 oz 145 g
Butter 1.1 oz 30 g
Rice Krispies 0.7 oz 20 g
Procedure
1. Combine lime streusel and rice krispies.
2. Melt white chocolate and butter over a water bath.
3. Fold melted white chocolate mixture into streusel mixture.
4. Press into a 3.5 × 10 x 0.25 in. (8.9 × 25 × 0.6 cm) mold and refrigerate until
set.
Coconut Biscuit
Portions: 1
Yield Description: 1 half sheet pan
Eggs 4.4 oz 125 g
Coconut Flour 0.7 oz 20 g
Powder Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Sugar 1.7 oz 48 g
Cake Flour 2.1 oz 60 g
Salt 0.06 oz 2g
Desiccated Coconut 0.9 oz 25 g
Procedure
1. Combine eggs, coconut flour, powder sugar, and coconut purée with a rubber
spatula.
2. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar.
3. Fold the meringue into the first mixture.
4. Fold in the cake flour.
5. Spread onto a silpat-lined half sheet pan.
Banana Creméux
Yield: 9.9 oz (280 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Prepare a crème anglaise (page 124) with the banana purée, heavy cream, egg
yolks, and sugar.
2. Add the gelatin and strain through a chinois.
Lime Curd
Portions: 1
Lime Purée 5.3 oz 150 g
Sugar 1.6 oz 45 g
Butter 1.9 oz 55 g
Green Food Coloring As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Curd method, page 124.
Banana Glaze
Portions: 1
Powder Gelatin 0.2 oz 5.5 g
Water #1 1 oz 30 g
Cornstarch 1 oz 28 g
Water #2 3.2 oz 90 g

Sugar 4.9 oz 140 g
Passion Purée 0.7 oz 20 g
Glucose 1.8 oz 50 g
Yellow Food Coloring As needed As needed
Neutral Glaze 5.8 oz 165 g
Note: This glaze can be used to create a wide variety of fruit glazes, replace the purée with
the desired flavor and the food color with a complimentary color.
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in first water 1 oz (30 g).
2. Make a slurry with the cornstarch and second water 3.2 oz (90 g).
3. Warm sugar, purées, and glucose to 104°F (40°C); whisk in the slurry.
4. Continue whisking and bring mixture to boil; add neutral glaze and yellow food
coloring as needed.
5. Mix with an immersion blender and strain through chinois.
6. Glaze at 85°F (30°C).
Key Terms
Crumb coats
Entremets
Insert
Bottom-to-top method
Top-to-bottom method
Glacé

1. Describe the similarities and differences between classic and contemporary
cakes.
2. What are the functions of the base in a contemporary cake?
3. Why is it important to freeze the molds and equipment necessary for producing
a glacé?
4. Identify the two methods of assembling a contemporary cake and describe the
benefits of each.
Tarts and Pies Page 1 of 49
CHAPTER 9
Tarts and Pies
It's hard to imagine life without pie. Long before the centuries-old phrase,
“Necessity is the mother of invention,” pie dough answered the call, allowing sweet
and savory fillings to be wrapped in dough, making transportation easier. Today,
these delicate crusts still help to transport and deliver flavorful fillings while
providing a crisp texture.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Prepare a variety of pie and tart doughs.
2. Fill and assemble single- and double-crusted pies and tarts.
3. Assemble pies and tarts using various doughs and fillings.
Pies and Tarts

Whether it is a casual restaurant, bakery, or fine-dining restaurant, you can be sure
there will be a pie or tart on the menu. So, what is the difference between a pie and
a tart? The answer to this question is: not much. Both can be made sweet or
savory, they can be made in large pans and cut for serving or in an individual
size—either way, they are delicious. The main difference between a pie and tart is
shape. Pies are made in pans that have sloping sides. Tarts are made in fluted tart
pans or straight-sided flan rings. There is no rule that says you must use pie dough
in a pie tin—doughs can be used interchangeably to create a wide variety of
products (including the galette, an open-faced version of a pie, usually baked on a
flat sheet pan). One other area remains true, making a great pie or tart starts with
selecting the correct ingredients, recipes, and flavors.
Ingredients
Ingredients can be broken down into the crust and the fillings. Classic pies, like
apple, pumpkin and cherry, are easily recognizable. All three have a crust and
filling, and when we look toward creating newer versions of the classics, additional
recipes can be added. This chapter takes a brief look at the classics and then gives
them an updated twist. The new interpretations of these items need to use the
flavors from the classics as well as an understanding of the ingredients and
techniques used to create the doughs and fillings.
Doughs
The crust is the carrier for the filling, but it is much more than this, adding flavor
and texture to the tart or pie. It should be delicate enough that it can be cut through
easily—even if using a plastic fork—yet sturdy enough to hold up. Using the proper
ingredients and understanding their function in the recipe will help to determine
which ingredients will provide the desired results.
Types of Doughs
Dough Ingredients
Pie Flour, Fat, Water
Short Dough Butter, Sugar, Egg, Flour
Chocolate Short Dough Butter, Sugar, Egg, Flour, Cocoa Powder
Pâte Brisée Flour, Butter, Egg, Water
Types of Doughs
Dough Ingredients
Almond Sugar Dough Butter, Sugar, Almond Flour, Flour, Egg
Flour
The key to creating a great pie or tart is in the crust. It is easy to make a crust that
looks good and holds up—at the same time, it might be difficult to break and have
poor flavor. Creating a tender crust is achieved through the use of low-protein-
content flours. Using cake or pastry flour will yield a tender product.
Fat
Different doughs will call for different fats. For example, pie dough may use
hydrogenated shortening, lard, or a mixture of butter and shortening while short
doughs and pâte brisée benefit from butter. Regardless of which fat is used in a
recipe, they all perform the same function in the dough and shorten the gluten. The
fat coats the gluten and prevents it from forming long chains. For more on gluten
development, see Chapter 2. Fat is also responsible for creating flakiness in the
dough.
Hydrogenated shortening is primarily used in pie dough and has an excellent
consistency for mixing. It is also inexpensive. Drawbacks are the high melting
point, 120°F (49°C), which coats the mouth with a greasy feeling. Recent trends
and legislation (trans fats have been banned in California and New York City and
the FDA has given food manufacturers until June of 2018 to phase out use) have
led to the development of trans fat–free, fully hydrogenated fats. During this
process the consumer became aware of the negative health impacts of
hydrogenated fats.
Rendering fat from pork produces lard. It is then deodorized to remove any flavor
that may remain. Lard melts at 115°F (45°C); while this is close to the melting point
of hydrogenated shortening, lard does not coat the mouth in the same way. Lard is
softer at room temperature, which can make it somewhat more difficult to work
with. It is also an animal-based product that is not suitable for vegetarian
applications. An excellent, flaky pie dough can be made using lard.
Liquid
Pie dough needs a liquid to pull the dough together. Water works very well, and it
is inexpensive and contributes to the texture of the crust. Milk can also be used,
although it contains lactose (sugar) and fat. The lactose will cause the dough to
take on more color and brown more easily, and the fat will keep the dough softer.
These are not necessarily negatives, but keep in mind that changing the
ingredients will impact the final product. Regardless of whether milk or water is
used, great care must be taken to not overmix the dough once the liquid is added.
Sugar
Sugar contributes to the dough's sweetness and crust color. It also plays a role in
controlling gluten development. The hygroscopic properties of sugar pull moisture
away from flour, preventing the flour from properly hydrating. While powdered
sugar and granulated sugar both provide the same sweetening power, they react
differently in the dough. Doughs made with powdered sugar will not spread as
much as those made with granulated sugar. Grinding the sugar into a very fine
powder will increase the ability of the sugar to absorb liquid due to the larger
surface area of the granules. Reducing the amount of liquid that is free in the
dough will also prevent spread.
Eggs
Eggs can change the color, flavor, and texture of a tart shell. The majority of an
egg white is water. All the water creates a dough that is firm, almost tough. The
yolk of the egg is mostly fat. The rich yellow yolk adds flavor, color, and tenderizes
the dough. But if using egg yolk creates a wonderful dough, why aren't all doughs
just made with egg yolk? Because the intended use of the dough must be
considered before just changing the ingredients. Although most recipes will
function as expected when changing yolks for whole eggs and vice versa, dough is
different. For example, a shell that needs to maintain its strength to support the
filling when cut and served on a buffet would benefit from the use of whole eggs.
The water in the egg white will give it strength. In contrast, desserts served à la
carte can easily use the more tender dough made with only egg yolks.
Fruits
Incorporating fruit into pies and tarts adds texture and freshness to the final
product. Fruits come in a variety of forms; fresh, frozen, dried, canned, and puréed.
Fresh fruit provides the best flavor and texture, plus the benefit of using produce
during the peak of freshness. But weather and insects can destroy crops and
increase prices. At other times, the fruit may grow but not produce the ideal crop.
Frozen, canned, dried, and puréed fruits can offer an option when fresh produce is
not at its peak.
This is not to say that processed fruits are substandard either. In some cases they
can be superior to fresh because the pastry chef is not limited to the seasonal
availability of produce. Processed fruits are harvested when the fruits are in season
and handled in a way to preserve the integrity of the fruit. Larger production
batches of pies can be made with frozen or canned apples, while smaller quantities
for restaurant service can use fresh apples.
Mixing Dough
When making dough for a pie or tart, minimal mixing will ensure the gluten is not
overdeveloped, creating a tough crust. There are two mixing methods used for
doughs, creaming and cutting in fat. The creaming method adds the flour at the
end of the mixing procedure, while the cutting in fat method reserves the liquid until
the last step. Both effectively minimize the gluten development of the dough. There
are many variations for each of these methods; however, the procedures below are
the most commonly used methods.
Creaming
1. Scale all ingredients and warm to 70°F (21°C).
2. Combine butter and sugar with a paddle on low speed.
3. Slowly add eggs in three additions and scrape the bowl and paddle often.
4. Lastly, add the flour in one addition, mix until combined.
5. Scrape the bowl and paddle again, mix briefly.
6. Flatten dough out to 1 in. (2.5 cm) thick using bread flour if necessary. Wrap in
plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours.
When using the creaming method, be sure to mix on low speed. Higher mixing
speeds or prolonged mixing time will result in incorporating air into the dough. The
extra air in the dough will expand during the baking process, thus causing changes
to the shape of the dough. Room temperature ingredients will assist in reducing
mixing time and creating the proper emulsion between the ingredients.
Cutting in Fat—Mealy Method
1. Scale ingredients.
2. Cube fat into ½ in. (15 mm) cubes, place in refrigerator to keep fat cold.
3. Combine fat and dry ingredients in mixer with paddle attachment.
4. Mix on low speed until mixture resembles cornmeal.
5. Add cold liquid in one addition mix until combined.
6. Flatten dough out to 1 in. (2.5 cm) thick, using bread flour if necessary. Wrap in
Cutting in Fat—Flaky Method
1. Scale ingredients.
2. Cube fat into ½ in. (15 mm) cubes, place in refrigerator to keep fat cold.
3. Combine fat and dry ingredients in mixer with paddle attachment.
4. Mix on low speed until fat reaches “pea-sized particles.”
5. Add cold liquid in one addition mix until combined.
6. Flatten dough out to 1 in. (2.5 cm) thick, using bread flour if necessary. Wrap in
It is possible to make flaky and mealy dough from the same exact recipe. The use
of the dough determines which method must be used when making the dough.
Mealy pie dough is used for lining the bottoms of pies. Pie fillings, such as fruit
fillings and custards, are not as easily absorbed into the mealy dough. Flaky pie
dough is reserved for tops of double-crusted pies.
Traditionally, graham cracker crumbs are also used to line pie shells. The crumbs
are combined with melted butter and pressed into the pan and baked briefly to
toast the crumbs and set the crust. This same process can be done with almost
any cookie or short dough. Biscotti, almond short dough, and even linzer dough
can be used in place of the graham crackers to create a crumb crust; the flavor of
the dough used for the crust can add additional flavor and show the creativity of the
pastry chef.
Rolling and Lining Shell

Rolling
After the dough has been mixed, it must be allowed to cool; this is a critical step
that is often overlooked. The resting period allows the flour to fully hydrate.
Additionally, cooling allows the fats to solidify and create a dough that is firm
enough to roll without having it become too soft and sticky.
Whether rolling the dough with a mechanical sheeter or by hand with a rolling pin,
the process is the same. Always use bread flour when dusting the work surface;
weaker flours, such as cake or pastry, can be easily absorbed by the dough.
Lightly dust the work surface with bread flour. Place 8 oz (230 g) chilled dough
onto the table and dust the top of the dough. When using a rolling pin, gently roll
the dough down and out. As the dough begins to expand, turn and move the dough
to ensure it is not sticking to the table. Waiting until the end of rolling to check this
typically results in dough that needs be rolled again. During the rolling process the
dough should appear to float on top of the table as it is rolled. Roll the dough to ⅛
in. (3 mm) thick. At this point any additional dusting flour can be brushed off the
dough. Place on a parchment paper-lined sheet pan and refrigerate for 10 to 20
minutes to allow the dough to become firm before lining the shells.
Lining a Shell
When lining a shell, the goal is to place the dough in the pan without stretching the
dough. If at any point during the lining process the dough is stretched, it will shrink
during the baking, leading to cracks or shells that do not fill the pan properly.
To limit the amount of stretching when transferring the dough, place a rolling pin on
the dough and roll the dough around the pin. Lift the rolling pin and unroll the
dough onto the shell. The second method involves folding the dough. Carefully fold
the dough in half, work your hands underneath the dough, and lift it into the pan
and unfold the dough.
Once the dough is transferred, begin to work the dough down into the pan. Gently
lift the dough using your fingers and tuck it down into the corners of the pan while
turning the pan. This is a gradual process, it may take two or three times around
the pan work the dough down into the corners. Trying to do this step too quickly will
cause the dough to be stretched in some areas and bunched up and overlapped in
others.
A word of caution: Dough that has been stretched is thinner than originally rolled
and dough that is overlapped will be thicker. Due to the differences in thickness the
shell will not bake evenly, some spots will burn and others will be underbaked.
1. Dusting dough and table
2. Rolling the dough out
3. Turning the dough

FIGURE 9.1A–C Process of rolling dough:
Classic Pies and Tarts

Baked
Baked pies and tarts can be either single crusted or double crusted. A single-
crusted pie may be referred to as open-faced. In the case of double-crusted pie,
the filling is enclosed in the dough. Regardless of this, there is one constant for
both varieties—they are baked. The filling and shell go into the oven assembled
and bake together.
A single-crusted shell is placed in the pan following the lining procedure described
in the previous section. When using the double-crusted method there some
additional steps that must be followed. The filling used in the pie must be cool
before placing in the shell. A warm filling will begin to melt the fat in the dough and
create a soggy bottom. Be careful to not drip any of the filling on the edge of the
crust that is to be sealed. This will prevent the doughs from adhering properly.
Brush the edges of the bottom shell with cold water, just enough to moisten the
dough. Too much water at this point will cause the top dough to slide, rather than
stick. Roll out another 8 oz (230 g) of dough following the rolling procedure.
Carefully transfer the dough to the pie using a rolling pin, and unroll the dough onto
the pie. There may be dough overhanging the sides of the pie: this dough can be
rerolled and used in a future pie so it is not wasted. Trim the dough against the pie
tin and crimp the edges. Then brush the top with egg wash, and vent if needed.
Vents are small slits placed in the top of the dough that allow steam to escape from
inside the pie. Be sure to brush the egg wash on the top before venting to prevent
the egg wash from dripping inside the pie.
Baking
Baking a double-crusted pie requires some knowledge of the product and the oven.
Different ovens bake at different rates. Since the pie is filled when it is placed in the
oven, the pastry chef must make sure the filling is cooked at the same time the
crust is baked. The temperatures provided in the recipes are a guide; adjustments
may need to be made to the time and/or oven temperature to properly bake the
pie. Pie dough may contain small amounts of sugar; therefore, it can withstand
higher baking temperatures. Indications of doneness in a double-crusted pie can
be observed through crust coloration. If at any point during baking the filling comes
through the seam between the top and bottom crust, remove it from the oven
immediately. If this occurs, the pie is overbaked, the filling is boiling, and fruits will
lose their texture.
Whether the pie or tart is double crusted or a single crusted, it is important to use a
hot oven—375°F (190°C) or in some cases higher. Higher baking temperatures set
the crust of the pie quickly, preventing the bottom from becoming soggy. In some
instances, the pie may be baked at 425°F (220°C) for the first 10 to 15 minutes of
baking. Then the temperature is reduced to continue baking the filling.
Unbaked
Unbaked pies and tarts have a shell that is baked first and then filled. Banana
cream pie, fresh fruit tarts, and lemon tarts are examples of unbaked pies. The
fillings for these pies tend to be lighter than baked pies.
Baking
The dough for unbaked pies and tarts are blind baked, which means that the
shells are completely baked and cooled before adding the filling. There are two
methods for this: Shells may be blind baked using parchment paper and weights or
using a second tin. The same results are obtained from each method, so it's a
matter of personal preference as to which is selected. In both methods, the dough
is docked after lining the pans. Rest the lined pans in the cooler to allow the dough
to firm after lining.
After approximately 20 minutes in the cooler, the dough is lined with cut parchment
paper rounds. The paper needs to be pressed firmly into the corners of the dough
and against the sides, and then filled with weights. Weights can be rice, beans, or
purchased pie weights. The shell is then placed in the oven and baked until golden
brown. After the dough and weights have cooled, remove them from the shell and
deposit the filling.
The second tin method works best with products baked in pie tins as they easily fit
together when lined. The dough is lined, trimmed, and docked, and then a second
tin is placed inside the dough. At this point, the pie shells can be stacked and
placed in the freezer for later use. Invert the shell onto a sheet pan and place
another sheet pan on top of the tins. This prevents the aluminum pie tin from
moving. The dough is held firmly in place and baked until golden brown. Once
cooled turn the shells over and remove the second pie tin.
Modern Tarts and Pies

Pies and tarts have been around for a long time. Many successful pastry items rely
on familiar flavors presented in a new way. Consider using the flavors of a classical
torte like Black Forest in a tart. Start with the flavors: chocolate, whipped cream,
dark cherries, and kirsch. Transitioning these flavors to a tart can be done by using
chocolate short dough, chocolate creméux, a thin layer of chocolate sponge cake
soaked with the kirsch syrup, and dark cherry mousse, and then topped with vanilla
whipped cream. Adding the layer of cake lightens the tart and allows the
introduction of different flavors.
Changing the shape and size of the tart can also impact the visual perception. Pies
and tarts are typically round, but that is basic. To create an interesting buffet or
display case item, use different shapes, like ovals, squares, and rectangles.
Different-sized products can also create an attractive display. For example, petits-
fours, individual and whole tarts of different flavors, will break up the display.
Troubleshooting for Tarts and Pies
Issue Cause
Dough shrinks. 1. Dough was mixed too long and gluten was developed.
Mix for less time.
2. The flour used had too much protein. Use weaker
flour.
3. The dough did not have enough fat. Increase fat.
Crust is soggy. 1. The dough did not bake during the initial stages of
baking. Use a higher oven temperature for first 10 to
15 minutes.
2. The heat on the bottom of the shell was not intense
enough. Place on lowest rack in the oven.
3. The dough is under baked. Bake dough longer.
Pie dough is too The fat was mixed too long before adding the wet
soft before baking. ingredients. When cutting the fat, reduce the mixing time.
Creamed doughs The emulsion of the butter and eggs was done too
are greasy. quickly. When mixing, gradually add eggs to maintain
emulsion.
Dough is tough. 1. The dough is overmixed. Reduce mixing time.

2. The flour used contained too much protein. Use a
weaker flour.
Recipes
Pie Dough
Portions: 3
Yield description: Three 9-in. (23-cm) pie shells
Shortening, cold, cut into ½-in. (15-mm) cubes 8 oz 227 g 64.1
Water, ice cold 4 oz 113 g 31.9
Sugar 0.8 oz 23 g 6.5
Salt 0.15 oz 4.3 g 1.2
Procedure
1. Cutting in fat method, page 250.
Pâte Sablée
Portions: 3
Yield description: Three 9-in. (23-cm) tart shells
Butter 7 oz 198 g 60.2
Almond Flour 1.4 oz 40 g 12.2
Powder Sugar 4.4 oz 125 g 38
Eggs 2.8 oz 79 g 24
Salt 0.04 oz 1.1 g 0.3
Procedure
1. Creaming method, pages 249–250.
Variation
Chocolate Pâte Sablée
Short Dough
Portions: 3
Butter 6 oz 170 g 50
Powdered Sugar 6 oz 170 g 50
Egg Yolks 4 oz 113 g 33.3
Cake Flour, sifted 12 oz 340 g 100
Procedure
1. Cream butter and powder sugar on low speed.
2. Slowly add egg yolks in four additions, scraping between each addition.
3. Add cake flour; mix until combined.
4. Scrape and mix again briefly.
5. Refrigerate for 4 hours before use.
Variation
Chocolate Short Dough
Cake Flour 1 lb 4 oz 600 g 36.9
Cocoa Powder 2 oz 60 g 3.8
Graham Cracker Dough

Portions: 1
Butter 3.5 oz 100 g 11.1
Powdered Sugar 3.1 oz 88 g 9.7
Brown Sugar 3.1 oz 88 g 9.7
Salt 0.1 oz 4g 0.4
All-Purpose Flour 15 oz 425 g 47
Honey 1.8 oz 50 g 5.5

Procedure
1. Cream butter, brown sugar, and salt.
2. Sift dry ingredients.
3. Slowly add liquids, scraping often.
4. Add dry ingredients and mix until combined.
5. Chill dough for 4 hours.
6. Roll to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick.
7. Bake at 350°F (175°C).
Cream Cheese Dough

Portions: 3
Pastry Flour 12 oz 340 g 100
Salt 0.06 oz 1.7 g 0.5
Butter, cold, cubed ¼ in. (6 mm) 7.2 oz 204 g 60
Cream Cheese, cold, cubed ¼ in. (6 mm) 5.4 oz 153 g 45
Water, ice cold 1.2 oz 34 g 10
Cider Vinegar 0.6 oz 17 g 5
Procedure
1. Sift pastry flour and salt.
2. Cut in cream cheese and butter.
3. Add water and cider vinegar; mix until dough is formed.
Sablé Breton
Portions: 3

Yield description: Three 9-in. (23-cm) rings
Butter 7.8 oz 220 g 78.6
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g 71.4
Procedure
2. Add yolks in four additions, scraping between each addition.
4. Add dry ingredients to creamed mixture to form a dough.
5. Scrape and mix again briefly.
7. Roll dough to desired thickness cut and place inside of ring molds.
8. Bake at 330°F (165°C).
Pâte Brisée
Portions: 3
Yield description: Three 9-in. (23-cm) tart rings
Butter, cold, cut into ½ in. (15 mm) cubes 7.2 oz 204 g 50
Egg Yolk 1.2 oz 34 g 83.3
Water, cold 3.6 oz 102 g 25
Salt 0.06 oz 1.7 g 0.4
Procedure
1. Cut butter into flour, using the paddle attachment until mixture resembles
coarse cornmeal.
2. Add salt, water, and yolks; mix to combine.

3. Refrigerate.
Old-Fashioned Apple Pie

Yield: 2 lb 13.75 oz (1300 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 9-in. (23-cm) pie
Yield description: One 9-in. (23-cm) pie
Granny Smith Apples, whole 2 lb 8 oz 1134 g
Sugar 1.8 oz 51 g
Nutmeg 0.02 oz 0.6 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Butter 1 oz 28 g
Cornstarch 0.5 oz 14 g
Procedure
1. Peel and core apples, slice into ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick slices.
2. Combine apples, brown sugar, sugar, lemon juice, cinnamon, nutmeg, and salt.
3. Toss together; cover and refrigerate for 45 minutes.
4. Drain apples to remove any liquid.
5. Add the butter to the drained liquid and reduce to a thick syrup.
6. Toss apples with cornstarch.
7. Pour reduction over apples and toss.
Cherry Pie
Portions: 1

IQF Cherries, thawed and drained 1 lb 8 oz 680 g
Cornstarch 1 oz 28 g
Drained Juice from Cherries 6 oz 170 g
Sugar #1 2 oz 57 g
Salt 0.25 oz 5.7 g
Lime Juice 0.25 oz 5.7 g
Procedure
1. Drain juice from cherries; reserve juice.
2. Combine cold water and cornstarch to make a slurry.
3. Add first amount of sugar, vanilla bean, and cherry juice and bring to boil.
4. Whisk in slurry and bring to a boil.
5. Add second sugar, salt, and lime juice.
6. Fold in cherries.
7. Cool completely before use.
Peanut Butter Tart

Yield: 1 lb 9.6 oz (769 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: 9-in. (23-cm) tart
Yield description: One 9-in. (23-cm) tart
Peanut Butter 8 oz 227 g
Cream Cheese 8 oz 227 g
Powdered Sugar 4 oz 113 g
Butter 1 oz 28 g
Salt 0.1 oz 2.8 g

Chocolate Short Dough, page 255
Procedure
1. Cream peanut butter, cream cheese, powdered sugar, butter, and salt on
medium high speed until lightened.
2. Whip cream and second powdered sugar to soft peaks.
3. Fold whipped cream into cream cheese mixture.
4. Fill baked and cooled chocolate short dough shell and refrigerate for 2 hours.
Chantilly (Stabilized)
Yield: 2 lb 6.8 oz (1102 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 4.75 oz 135 g
Vanilla Bean, split and scraped, seeds only 2 each 2 each
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in cold water.
2. Whip heavy cream, vanilla bean seeds, and sugar to medium peaks.
3. Dissolve gelatin over a water bath to 110°F (43°C).
4. Add 10% of the whipped cream to the gelatin and warm to 105°F (40°C).
5. Stream warm gelatin mixture into whipping cream.
6. Quickly fold to evenly distribute gelatin mixture.
Whiskey Pecan Pie

Yield: 1 lb 12.9 oz (819 g)
Portions: 1
Whiskey 1.2 oz 34 g
Eggs 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 4.8 oz 136 g
Light Corn Syrup 6.4 oz 181 g
Pecans 6.7 oz 190 g
Dark Chocolate Chips 3.3 oz 94 g
Chocolate Pâte Sablée, page 254
Procedure
1. Combine whiskey, vanilla paste, eggs, corn syrup, and sugar with a whisk to
form a custard mixture.
2. Strain mixture through a chinois.
3. Line a pie shell with chocolate pâte sablée.
4. Place pecans and chocolate chips.
5. Pour custard mixture over pecans and chocolate chips.
6. Bake at 350°F (175°C).
Fresh Fruit Tart, Classic

Portions: 1
Components U.S. Metric
Pâte Sablée, page 254
Raspberry Marmalade
Almond Cream, page 80 12 oz 360 g
Pastry Cream, page 140 6 oz 180 g
Fresh Seasonal Fruit
Apricot Glaze, page 109
Procedure
1. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and line a 9-in. (23-cm) tart pan.
2. Spread a thin layer of raspberry marmalade in the bottom of the tart shell.
3. Pipe a layer of almond cream into the tart shell.
4. Bake at 350°F (175°C) for 25 minutes or until shell is golden brown.
5. After shell has cooled completely, fill with pastry cream.
6. Arrange fruit on top of pastry cream. Be sure to cover all of the pastry cream
with the fruit.
7. Brush the fruit with apricot glaze.
FIGURE 9.2 Fresh Fruit Tart
Fresh Fruit Tart, Contemporary

Portions: 1

Raspberry Marmalade
Almond Cream, page 80 12 oz 360 g
Pastry Cream, page 140 6 oz 180 g
Vanilla Crémeux, page 140
Poached Pear, page 286
Fresh Fruit
Macarons, page 340
Chocolate Decor
Procedure
1. Follow steps 1–5 in the fresh fruit tart procedure.
2. Prepare the vanilla crémeux and freeze in 7-in. (180-mm) round mold.
3. Unmold the vanilla crémeux and place on top of the pastry cream.
4. Place the macarons on the tart so they are leaning on the crémeux.
5. Arrange the fresh fruit and poached pear and glaze with apricot glaze.
FIGURE 9.3 Contemporary Fruit Tart
Lemon Tart
Portions: 1
Components
Short Dough, page 255
Components
Lemon Curd, page 139
Italian Meringue, page 266
Powdered Sugar
Procedure
1. Roll short dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and blind bake in a 9-in. (23-cm) tart shell.
2. Cool shell completely and fill with prepared curd.
3. Pipe Italian meringue on top of curd.
4. Dust meringue with powdered sugar.
5. Brown meringue in 425°F (220°C) oven for 3 to 5 minutes.
FIGURE 9.4 Lemon Tart
Italian Meringue
Portions: 1

Sugar 12 oz 340 g
Water 3 oz 85 g
Procedure
1. Place egg whites in a mixer with whip attachment
2. In a saucepan combine water and sugar, stir gently to ensure all sugar is wet
3. Cook sugar mixture to over high heat
4. When sugar mixture reaches 114°F (45°C), turn mixer on high speed, continue
cooking sugar.
5. Once sugar mixture reaches to 120°F (50°C) pour into whipping whites
6. Continue running mixture until the meringue has cooled
7. Use as needed
Note: Meringue cannot be held for a long period of time, it must be used when
it is made.
Raspberry Pistachio Tart

Portions: 1
Portion size: 8.5-in. (22-cm) square tart shell
Yield description: One 8.5-in. (22-cm) square tart shell
Raspberry Diplomat, page 138
Raspberry Pastry Cream, page 268
Pistachio Creméux, page 268
Pistachio Dacquoise, page 269
White Chocolate, melted 3.3 oz 100 g
Clear Glazing Gel, page 109
Raspberry Pistachio Crumble, page 269
Fresh Raspberries
Powdered Sugar
Procedure
1. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and blind bake in an 8.5-in. (22-cm) square tart
shell.
2. While shell is still warm, brush with melted chocolate.
3. Prepare a half batch of diplomat from raspberry pastry cream.
4. Spread a layer of the diplomat in the tart shell.
5. Cut the pistachio dacquoise to 7.5 in. (19 cm) and place on top of the raspberry
diplomat.
6. Spread a layer of the raspberry diplomat on top of the pistachio dacquoise to
level the tart shell.
7. Unmold the pistachio creméux and glaze with clear glaze.
8. Place the pistachio creméux on top of the tart.
9. Cover the exposed raspberry cream with the raspberry pistachio crumble.
10. Dust the crumble with powdered sugar.
11. Place the raspberries on the edge of the creméux.
FIGURE 9.5 Raspberry Pistachio Tart
Pistachio Creméux
Portions: 1
Milk 3.4 oz 96 g
Sugar 1.1 oz 31 g
Gelatin Sheets, bloomed for 15 minutes 1.25 each 1.25 each
Procedure
1. Crème anglaise method (page 124).
2. Add gelatin sheets and pistachio paste to crème anglaise before straining.
3. Pour into 7-in. (180-mm) mold and freeze.
Raspberry Pastry Cream

Portions: 1
Whole Egg 0.88 oz 25 g
Butter 1.1 oz 30 g
Procedure
1. Combine raspberry purée and first sugar in a saucepan and bring to a boil.
2. Combine second sugar and cornstarch in a stainless steel bowl.
3. Add eggs and egg yolks to cornstarch mixture.
4. Whisk half of the raspberry purée into the egg mixture.
5. Return this mixture back to the saucepan.
6. Bring the cream to a boil for 2 minutes.
7. Remove from the heat and incorporate the butter.
8. Press the cream through a tamis.
9. Place the finished cream into a shallow pan and cover directly with plastic wrap.
10. Place on an ice bath and refrigerate.
Raspberry Pistachio Crumble

Yield: 4 oz (126.5 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion at 4 oz (126.5 g)
Pistachios, lightly toasted 1.1 oz 30 g
Corn Flakes 1.1 oz 30 g
Cocoa Butter 1.1 oz 30 g
Freeze Dried Raspberries 0.2 oz 6g
Salt 0.02 oz 0.5 g
Procedure
1. Melt cocoa butter and white chocolate.
2. Combine corn flakes, raspberries, salt, and pistachios in a food processor;
pulse to grind mixture.
3. Fold melted chocolate mixture into the corn flake mixture.
4. Roll out between two sheets of parchment paper and allow to crystallize.
5. Break the hardened mixture into pieces and pulse again in a food processor to
a coarse consistency.
Pistachio Dacquoise
Portions: 1

Sugar 2.5 oz 70 g
Procedure
1. Sift pistachio flour, almond flour, and powdered sugar.
4. Spread onto silpat-lined half sheet pan.
Peach Galette
Portions: 1
Portion size: 8-in. (20-cm) gallete
Yield description: One 8-in. (20-cm) gallete
Components
Cream Cheese Dough, page 256
Peach Galette Filling, page 271
Egg Wash
Oat Streusel, page 81
Coarse White Sugar
Egg Wash
Powdered Sugar
Procedure
1. Roll cream cheese dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick to a diameter of 11.5 in. (30
cm).
2. Place prepared peach galette filling in the center of the dough.
3. Fold the sides of the dough over the peaches, leaving the center uncovered.
4. Egg wash the sides of the dough and sprinkle with coarse sugar.
5. Top the galette with the oatmeal streusel.
7. After the galette has cooled, dust with powdered sugar.
FIGURE 9.6 Peach Galette
Peach Galette Filling

Portions: 1
Peaches, sliced, ¼ in. (6 mm) thick 1 lb 8 oz 680 g

Sugar 3.3 oz 94 g
Salt 0.1 oz 2.8 g
Sliced Almonds, lightly toasted 2 oz 57 g
Procedure
1. Combine peaches, sugar, salt, and cinnamon. Let sit for 30 minutes.
2. Strain the juice from the peaches and reduce to a thick syrup.
3. Combine peaches, cornstarch, and sliced almonds.
4. Pour reduced syrup over peaches.
Tiramisu Tart
Portions: 1
Portion size: 13.75 × 4.5 in. (35 × 11.5 cm) tart
Yield description: One 13.75 × 4.5 in. (35 × 11.5 cm) tart
Components
Mascarpone Cream, page 274
Dark Chocolate Ganache (see Ganache), page 142
Chocolate Genoise, page 192
Coffee Marsala Syrup, page 275
Cocoa Powder (as needed)
Procedure
1. Roll chocolate short dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and line 13.75 × 4.5 in. (35 ×
11.5 cm) tart shell and blind bake.
2. Spread a layer of ganache in the bottom of the tart.
3. Place a ¼ in. (6 mm) thick layer of the chocolate genoise on top of the
ganache.
4. Soak the genoise with the coffee marsala syrup.
5. Spread a layer of mascarpone cream to the top of the tart shell.
6. Pipe the remaining mascarpone cream with a St Honoré tip.
7. Lightly dust the top of the mascarpone cream with cocoa powder.
FIGURE 9.7 Tiramisu Tart
English Cream
Portions: 1
Heavy Cream 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Sugar 4.4 oz 125 g
Procedure
1. Make a crème anglaise (page 124).
2. Add gelatin after cooking and strain through a chinois.
Mascarpone Cream
Portions: 1
English Cream, from previous recipe 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g
Mascarpone Cheese 1 lb 0.2 oz 460 g
Note: If overwhipped, mascarpone cheese will break.
Procedure
1. Mix English Cream in a mixer with a whip on high speed for 10 minutes.
2. Add mascarpone cheese and mix until the mixture resembles a mousse.
3. Fill molds or pipe immediately.
4. Refrigerate for 2 hours to set the cream.
Coffee Marsala Syrup

Yield: 7 oz (210 g)
Portions: 1

Water 1.8 oz 50 g
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Marsala Wine 0.4 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar; heat to dissolve.
2. Cool syrup on an ice bath.
3. Add coffee extract and marsala wine.
Hazelnut Cream
Yield: 1 lb 11.75 oz (787 g)
Portions: 1
Milk 7.5 oz 213 g
Sugar 3 oz 85 g
Gelatin Powder 0.25 oz 7g
Water 1 oz 28 g
Hazelnut Paste 8 oz 227 g
Procedure
2. Heat heavy cream, milk, and sugar to a simmer.
3. Add gelatin to dissolve.
4. Add hazelnut paste, emulsify, and strain through chinois.
5. Pour into molds and freeze.
Banana Tart
Portions: 1
Milk Chocolate, melted 3.3 oz 100 g
Banana Mousse (see Fruit Mousse), page 136
Bananas in Lime Juice, page 277
Milk Chocolate Banana Ganache, page 277
Chantilly (Stabilized), page 259
Chocolate Mirror Glaze, page 231
White Chocolate Spray (see cocoa butter spray), page 436
Procedure
1. Prepare the banana mousse and freeze in an 8-in. (20-cm) ring mold; freeze
additional mousse in assorted half sphere molds.
2. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and blind bake in a 9-in. (23-cm) tart
shell.
3. While the shell is slightly warm, brush with melted milk chocolate.
4. After the chocolate has crystallized, place the banana slices in the shell.
5. Pour the milk chocolate banana ganache over the bananas; refrigerate.
6. Unmold the ring mold of banana mousse and glaze with the chocolate mirror
glaze, place onto the ganache.
7. Spray the half spheres of banana mousse with white cocoa butter spray tinted
yellow; use these to garnish the tart.
8. Pipe Chantilly (Stabilized) around the tart.
FIGURE 9.8 Banana Tart
Milk Chocolate Banana Ganache

Portions: 1
Procedure
1. Heat heavy cream to a boil.
2. Pour cream over chocolate and emulsify with an immersion blender.
3. Add banana purée and emulsify.
4. Pour into tart shell while warm.
Bananas in Lime Juice

Yield: 7 oz (200 g)
Portions: 1
Bananas 7 oz 200 g
Lime Juice 1.1 oz 30 g
Procedure
1. Slice bananas into ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick slices.
2. Toss bananas in lime juice.
3. Drain to remove excess lime juice.
Chocolate Mousse Tart

Portions: 1
Portion size: 8.5-in. (22-cm) square tart
Yield description: One 8.5-in. (22-cm) square tart
Components
Dark Chocolate Mousse (Pate à bombe), page 135
Caramel Glaze, page 236
Hazelnut Cream, page 275
Dark Chocolate Spray (see Cocoa Butter Spray), page 436
Procedure
1. Roll chocolate short dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and blind bake in an 8.5-in. (22-cm)
square tart shell.
2. Place two rings of the hazelnut cream in the bottom of the shell.
3. Fill to the top of the tart shell with dark chocolate mousse.
4. Pipe a border around the edge of the shell.
5. Freeze the tart and spray with dark chocolate spray for a velvet texture.
6. Glaze the center of the tart with caramel glaze.
FIGURE 9.9 Chocolate Mousse Tart
Cranberry Orange Tart

Portions: 1
Components
Components
Crème Brûlée, page 140
Poached Cranberries, page 281
Clafoutis, page 144, half batch
Orange Supremes
Clear Glaze, page 109
Procedure
1. Roll short dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and blind bake halfway in a 9-in. (23-cm)
tart shell.
2. Cool shell and fill with poached cranberries and clafoutis custard bake at 350°F
(175°C).
3. Unmold frozen brûlée, sprinkle with sugar and brûlée with a blowtorch while still
frozen.
4. Transfer caramelized custard to cooled clafoutis tart shell.
5. Place orange supremes around the edge of the brûlée and apply clear glaze.
FIGURE 9.10 Cranberry Orange Tart
Poached Cranberries
Yield: 6 oz (185 g)
Portions: 1
Water 1 lb 10 oz 800 g
Sugar 6.7 oz 200 g
Cranberry 6.2 oz 185 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar; bring to a boil.
2. Reduce to a simmer and add cranberries.
3. Cook until cranberries are tender.
4. Strain and cool.
Cranberry Orange Tart Brûlée

Portions: 1
Milk 4.8 oz 135 g
Cream 11.8 oz 335 g
Sugar 2.8 oz 80 g
Agar 0.06 oz 1.6 g
Water 0.07 oz 2g
Procedure
1. Combine agar with half the sugar.

3. Add remaining sugar to egg yolks and whisk to combine.
4. Bring milk, cream, vanilla bean, and agar/sugar mixture to a boil; simmer for 5
minutes.
5. Temper milk and cream mixture into egg yolks; continue cooking like a crème
anglaise.
6. Add gelatin mixture stir to dissolve.
8. Pour custard into a 7-in. (180-mm) mold and freeze.
Tea Tart
Portions: 1
Components
Tea Tart Ganache, page 283
Stabilized Chantilly, page 259
Chocolate Decoration
Procedure
1. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and blind bake halfway in a 9-in. (23-cm)
tart shell.
2. Pipe stabilized Chantilly on top of crystallized ganache with a ¼-in. (6-mm)
plain pastry tip.
3. Place chocolate decoration on top of stabilized Chantilly.
FIGURE 9.11 Tea Tart
Tea Tart Ganache

Portions: 1
Earl Grey Tea 0.4 oz 10 g
Honey 2.6 oz 75 g

64% Dark Chocolate 6.3 oz 180 g
Butter, softened 2.1 oz 60 g
Procedure
1. Combine heavy cream and Earl Grey tea; heat, cover, and steep for 15
minutes. While steeping, add the honey.
2. Strain heavy cream to remove tea.
3. Return heavy cream to simmer and emulsify with dark and milk chocolate to
create ganache.
4. Combine Trimoline and butter with ganache and emulsify.
5. Pour ganache into prebaked tart shell and allow ganache to crystallize for 4
hours before serving. Do not refrigerate tart.
Apple Tart
Portions: 1
Components
Sablé Breton, page 256
Caramel Creméux, page 285
Apple Pectin Gel, page 285
Procedure
1. Roll sablée breton to ¼ in. (6 mm); cut and bake in a 8-in. (20-cm) metal ring.
2. Whip caramel creméux for 5 minutes and pipe onto cooled sablée breton.
3. Place apple pectin gel on top of caramel creméux.
FIGURE 9.12 Apple Tart
Apple Pectin Gel

Portions: 1
Granny Smith Apples, peeled and sliced 14.1 oz 400 g
Sugar 5.3 oz 150 g
Glucose 2.3 oz 65 g
Water 1.4 oz 40 g
Pectin NH 0.2 oz 7g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and glucose.
2. Heat to an amber caramel; pour onto a silpat to cool.
3. Grind caramel with pectin in a food processor.
4. Layer apples and caramel mixture in an 8-in. (20-cm) metal cake ring; place a
weight on top of the apples to compress during baking.
5. Bake at 180°F (82°C) for 1 hour 45 minutes.
6. Place in the freezer to unmold apples.
Caramel Creméux
Portions: 1
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Water 1.8 oz 50 g
Heavy Cream 1 lb 0.9 oz 480 g
Caramelia Chocolate 2.1 oz 60 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar; caramelize.
2. Deglaze with heavy cream and add vanilla beans.
3. Cook on low to dissolve any remaining caramel.
4. Bring cream mixture to simmer and temper into egg yolks; cook like a crème
anglaise.
5. Pour caramel anglaise mixture over caramelia and cocoa butter; emulsify.
6. Add gelatin and strain through a chinois.
7. Place on an ice bath and reserve in the cooler.
Pear Almond Cream Tart

Portions: 1
Components
Components
Poached Pears, page 286
Almond Cream, page 80
Procedure
1. Roll short dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and blind bake halfway in a 9-in. (23-cm)
tart shell.
2. Pipe the almond cream into the tart shell.
3. Drain pears from poaching liquid; cut in half and slice.
4. Fan pears on top of almond cream.
5. Bake at 350°F (175°C) until short dough is a golden brown color.
6. After cooling brush the top of the tart with apricot glaze.
Poached Pears
Portions: 1
Portion size: 6 poached pears
Yield description: 1 portion at 6 poached pears
Bosc Pears 6 each 6 each
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Cinnamon Stick 1 each 1 each
Star Anise 1 each 1 each
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, cinnamon stick, star anise, and vanilla bean and bring to
a boil.
2. Peel pears and use a parisienne scoop to remove the seeds.
3. Add the pears to the liquid and reduce to a low simmer; cover the pears with a
cartouche.
4. The size and ripeness of the pear will determine the cooking time. The more
ripe the pear, the shorter the cooking time. Test the pears with a knife. When
the knife is inserted without any resistance, the pears are cooked through.
5. Cover the pan with plastic wrap and cool over an ice bath.
6. To intensify the flavor, store the pears in the poaching liquid overnight before
using.
Pumpkin Tart
Portions: 8
Portion size: 3.25 in. (9 cm)
Yield description: 8 tarts at 3.25 in. (9 cm)
Components
Graham Cracker Dough, page 255
Pumpkin Bavarian, page 288
White Chocolate Mousse, page 135
White Chocolate Spray, page 397
Procedure
1. Roll graham cracker dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and blind bake in 3.25-in. (9-cm)
tart shells.
2. Prepare white chocolate mousse and freeze in 2.75-in. (7-cm) round molds.
3. After cooling tart shells, prepare pumpkin Bavarian and fill shells.
4. Unmold white chocolate mousse onto a parchment-lined sheet pan.
5. Spray white chocolate spray onto unmolded mousse to achieve a velvet texture
(page 397).
6. Place the white chocolate mousse onto the pumpkin Bavarian.
FIGURE 9.13 Individual Pumpkin Tart
Pumpkin Bavarian
Yield: 1 lb 8 oz (668.5 g)
Portions: 1
Pumpkin Purée 4.6 oz 130 g
Vanilla Bean 1 each 1 each
Pumpkin Pie Spice 0.04 oz 1g
Procedure
1. Bavarian procedure (page 133).
Key Terms
Galette
Mealy pie dough
Flaky pie dough
Crumb crust
Single crusted
Double crusted
Blind baked
Docked

1. Describe the difference between a pie and tart.
2. Identify two fats used in pie and tart doughs and discuss the advantages and
disadvantages of each.
3. Why is it important to not stretch dough when lining a shell?
4. There are two methods used to blind bake dough: Select one and describe the
process.
Plated Desserts Page 1 of 50
CHAPTER 10
Plated Desserts
The old saying goes, “You never get a second chance to make a first impression.”
When it comes to plated desserts, you never get a second chance to make a last
impression. Throughout the years, the role of the pastry chef has become more
important to restaurants, hotels, and country clubs. The last course that goes to the
diner is the dessert; a great dessert can make a memorable experience even
better.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Design desserts utilizing familiar flavor combinations in a refined way.
2. Create plated desserts for a variety of restaurant styles.
3. Explain the importance of flavor, texture, temperature, and presentation.
4. Identify the components needed for a balanced dessert.
5. Describe the process for designing a plated dessert.
Presentation Approach
Plated desserts provide the pastry chef a way to create something both artistic and
delicious for their guests. Originally, sugar showpieces were placed in the front
windows of pastry shops to show the skill and mastery of the chef, as well as to
market the shop's products. Restaurants have used different approaches—from
dessert carts to printed menus, to social media—to promote its pastry chef and his
or her creations. While these marketing approaches continue to transform and
adapt, desserts continue to evolve, allowing the pastry chef to develop a signature
“style.”
Over the years, trends and techniques have changed—whether it is the
combination of flavors used or the style in which the dessert is presented. Recent
years have seen an increase in the use of savory items, such as bacon or beets in
desserts. Along with introducing new flavors, plating styles change as well. The
1990s brought a wave of desserts that were over engineered and made the
desserts difficult to eat. Ten years later, almost anything that could be
“deconstructed,” was. This trend brought classical items that were broken down
into the different components and assembled in a way that did not resemble the
original in any way except flavors.
Current plating style is a “scattered” appearance that at first looks like several
items tossed on the plate. However, it is exactly the opposite. This style takes a
considerable amount of effort to prepare and execute. No matter which style fits
you best, new combinations can always be created; a major part of the job of the
chef is to create a memorable experience for the guest. One thing that remains
constant, though, is that flavor is the single most important element on the plate.
classical
fine dining
scattered dessert plating

FIGURE 10.1a–c Three ways to plate a pineapple upside-down cake:
Design
Plated desserts not only need to taste good, they also need to be appealing to the
eye. As desserts are designed, a great deal of thought needs to be used to
incorporate flavors that complement and contrast each other while producing an
attractive design. A beautiful dessert that lacks in flavor will be easily forgotten. At
the same time, a delicious dessert that is not presented in an attractive way will be
difficult to sell. Unlike most art forms, which only focus on one of the senses, the
pastry chef must construct desserts with a harmony between the elements of flavor
and visual design.
The pastry chef has many tools to use to create a memorable experience. From a
simple rustic tart to an elaborate à la minute dessert served in a high-end
restaurant, there is a place for all styles. It is important to have a thorough
understanding of what creates a balanced plate, in regards to both visual and
flavor components. There are five key components to achieve this:
1. Flavor
2. Texture
3. Temperature
4. Color
5. Shape
Flavor
Flavor needs to be addressed first. You can create the most elaborate dessert, but
without flavor the design will be forgotten. The dessert menu should harmonize
with the previous courses and reflect continuity through the progression of the
meal. In a restaurant that serves a classical French menu, a tropical dessert would
not be a good fit for the end of the meal. A better selection to consider would be a
more traditional French pastry such as a vanilla crème brûlée.
It is important to consider not only which flavors will be utilized but how many. A
hard lesson to learn, but one of the greatest techniques that can be taught in the
kitchen is editing—less can sometimes be more. While many different flavors can
work on the plate, it can become confusing. When selecting flavor, decide what the
“main” flavor of the plate will be and provide additional complementing and
contrasting flavors. All too often, when a new component is added to a plate, a new
flavor is introduced. Using the same flavor can build complexity on the plate, while
keeping the “main” flavor. The plate should be composed of no more than three
flavors.
There are some flavors that can be used on the plate that are not that different and
can be treated as the same flavor; these flavors are in the same flavor families.
Flavor Families
Main Flavor Similar Flavors
Chocolate Dark Milk White
Berry Strawberry Blueberry Raspberry
Citrus Lemon Lime Orange
Nut Pistachio Hazelnut Peanut
The term rich is often used to describe desserts. The overall flavor profile tends to
be on the sweet side for many desserts. This can be overcome by using a
combination of the basic tastes: sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami. The term
umami literally translates to “pleasant savory taste.” Sometimes confused with the
flavor of salt, it is different and refers to an earthy flavor. Mushrooms, meat,
seafood, vegetables, cheese, and fermented products are some of the more
common foods that have the umami flavor. However, many items ranging from
classic to modern desserts use this flavor to add complexity. Sweet potato, green
tea, cheeses, green peas, carrots, bacon, and even foie gras can be found on
desserts in a wide variety of restaurants. These elements can be successfully
added into a dessert menu. Many desserts focus on sweet, sour, salty, and bitter.
Successful flavor combinations can be developed easily from existing flavor
combinations. Flavor is something experienced by more than just the palate.
Familiar flavors like apple pie, chocolate chip cookies, or even peanut butter and
jelly remind us of past events. Looking toward these combinations for inspiration
will provide flavors that are proven to work together, and a familiarity for the guest.
Texture
Texture can make the difference between good and great. Utilizing contrasting
components in a dessert creates an interesting experience. An experienced pastry
chef works soft, crunchy, fatty, dry, and smooth textures into many desserts. These
components can be obvious in the dessert's composition or hidden inside a
component of the dessert. There are benefits to using both of these techniques.
Having the different textures visible shows the complexity of the dessert. Providing
a hidden crunchy layer inside a cake gives a surprise when eaten. When
considering the dessert menu as a whole, implementing both of these techniques
will provide a visual appeal to the desserts and ensure that there is something
appealing to a variety of diners.
This helps to draw the guest in; something smooth and shiny provides a sleek look,
leaving the imagination to guess what is inside. When the dessert is cut into, a
surprise of colors, flavors, and textures elevates the already mysterious item.
Placing textured items such as granola, nougatine, or finely chopped nuts directly
on the plate provides eye appeal and helps identify the flavors that are on the
plate. Additionally, they provide the crunchy element that is often missing from
desserts. Smooth components add concentrated flavor to the dessert—they can be
light and airy or dense. Cakes can provide a variety of textural elements, covering
a wide range: dense, light, moist, dry, crispy, or chewy.
Temperature
Temperature differences not only change the eating experience but also the way
the flavors come through. Consider a warm slice of apple pie à la mode. It consists
of such simple combinations, yet there are many things happening on the plate.
The warm pie creates a cool sauce out of the melted ice cream both on the plate
and inside your mouth. Incorporating any combination of items ranging from frozen
to hot allows the pastry chef the opportunity to introduce another element to the
diner. Something unexpected will continue to build on the experience of the meal.
Color
This is one of the most difficult areas for a plate. The main challenge is
understanding when there is enough color on a plate, and not adding color just for
the sake of adding color. A vibrant, colorful plate can look very attractive to some
diners, while others may not be concerned with this and will base their selection on
other factors. This leaves the chef many options when creating plates; utilizing a
range of color schemes and variety across the menu will produce a variety of
options for the guest to choose from.
Just like the guest, some chefs may want a wide range of colors while others are
not as concerned. The chef has many elements to work with when creating a plate,
and color is only one of these. Color may be the first hint at what is on the plate,
and start guiding the diner through the flavors they may experience. There are the
four other plate design elements—flavor, temperature, texture, and shape—that
chefs can use in their creations. Not all desserts need a variety of colors:
monochromatic plates can be just as attractive and taste equally as good. The
plate can be composed of one color and use the shades of that color to create
interest. A dessert that is brown also can have yellow, orange, and burgundy.
Considering the seasonality of items will also influence the colors used in a
dessert. Currently, restaurants are utilizing local ingredients and advertising this on
the menu. The availability of seasonal and local ingredients will help to determine
the flavors offered on the menu, and encourage menu changes throughout the
year. Of course, many fruits such as strawberries, raspberries, and apples are
available year round. However, berries tend to be a summer fruit and apples a fall
fruit. There is no written rule against using berries in the fall, but having knowledge
of seasonality will help your desserts taste and look the best they can be. It is
important to remember that fruit in season not only looks better and tastes better, it
tends to be less expensive. Researching new options for a red fruit that can
replace a strawberry on a winter menu will show creativity and continue to help you
expand your knowledge of the products available and new uses for them.
FIGURE 10.2 Shades of brown
FIGURE 10.3 Plated dessert showing shades of brown

Back to the apple pie example: What are the colors on that plate? The pie and
filling are both brown, with an off-white ice cream, creating an attractive yet
monochromatic presentation. Adding color to the plate means revising the flavor
component. Adding a strawberry garnish to the apple pie would add a pop of red to
the plate (color) and strawberry could go with apple (flavor component). However,
a sliced or fanned strawberry really does not do much more than add color.
Thinking of the seasonality of these two items, apples are fall and strawberries are
summer. There needs to be some logic behind the selection of all components to a
plate. Sure the strawberry looks good and it doesn't taste bad with the apple pie,
but why is it there? When thinking of apples, a fall crop, cranberry also comes to
mind. It provides a deep red color that is in the same season that apples typically
are harvested and eaten. Additions to the plate for any component should be well
thought out and not just done to ensure all components are met.
While colorful desserts can be interesting and help convey the flavors, it is
important to remember that too much color can be confusing. There is no rule
limiting the amount of colors on the plate. The color wheel introduced to us in art
class can provide some assistance in deciding on color usage. The color wheel
provides an example of complementary and contrasting colors. Color is something
that should be experimented with when creating a dessert. Remember to use
colors that are available and occur in nature. In most cases, adding food color
should not be necessary. Respecting the ingredients and handling them properly
will help to provide the color desired.
Shape
The visual component of shape works together with color and textures present in a
dessert. Shapes are to the eye what flavors are to the palate. A variety of shapes
will present an attractive selection to the guest. This is not only on each individual
plate, but also the dessert menu as a whole. The plate can have complementary
and contrasting shapes to create interest and flow on the plate. These shapes can
be used to move the diner's eye around the plate and ultimately visually lead them
to the main component of the dish. A swoosh of sauce or an elegantly twisted tuile
will catch the eye and bring it to the center of the plate. There are different
combinations that can be used to achieve an attractive presentation.
Combining shapes breaks up the plate and helps to enhance presentation. To help
this process, roughly sketching the plates on the menu will verify that all the
desserts will not look the same. After sketching the desserts, analyze the shapes of
the components and see if variety can be added. The available equipment can limit
shapes of desserts; variety of shape can be added in the form of a round scoop of
ice cream or a dot of sauce. Consider combining rounded smooth shapes with
sharp rectangles or triangles.
Attractive plating using the same size and shape, called “sameness,” can be very
interesting. This style works best if all sizes are exactly the same, similar to what
can be found in some modern art. The exactness of these items adds to the
appeal.
When thinking about using shapes, several questions need to be answered.
What Shape Am I Trying to Achieve?

As previously discussed, shape needs to be decided. This can be a simple
rectangle or square cut out of a sheet, a round tart, or if a more intricate shape is
desired, molds are available to the chef. Keep in mind that a complex shape being
cut out of a larger sheet will incur product loss. When cutting out of sheets try to
stick with squares, rectangles, parallelograms, or trapezoids. Also consider the size
of the dessert—this will vary depending on the restaurant. A good starting point is 4
oz (120 g) for all components on the plate.
FIGURE 10.4 Examples of shapes
What Style of Food Does the Restaurant Serve?

The style of food refers to the service level of the restaurant and the design of the
food. This is inclusive of ingredients, technique, and service style.
Harmonizing the dessert with previous courses is important. Planning the dessert
menu along with the main menu will provide continuity throughout the meal. It
ensures that the courses continue to follow a progression and make sense.
Knowing the style that the restaurant serves and, more importantly, serving shapes
that are familiar to the diner are important. A traditional style restaurant may have a
pie on the menu; this could be a slice or even an individual tart or pie. The diner
would expect the shape to be a triangular wedge of pie or a round tart. Serving a
square tart may be an option and provide a different look, but would be more fitting
for a more contemporary restaurant.
Current trends present a more scattered plating style. This is visually attractive
plating. Modern techniques can be easily utilized—ingredients can be changed
based on availability, and the dessert is interactive for the guest. Pastry chefs can
create different flavor combinations, as they experiment with the various
components. While this style appears to have a haphazard approach, it requires
knowledge of the ingredients and how to assemble in a timely manner. Desserts
are plated à la minute, in a minute, meaning the order is placed and the dessert is
plated. The complexity of the dessert means a longer time to plate up, which in turn
means a longer wait for the guest. Consider the time plate-up will take when
designing all desserts.
What Do the Other Desserts Look Like?

The food a chef serves is art. Art is an expression of creativity, and as chefs we
create with our minds and our hearts. We strive to present our creations to the
guest to provide them an emotional experience, and please them. As with any form
of art, it is subjective—trying to decide what is good art or bad art is entirely up to
the guest. This brings about the next question.
What Is Your Personal Style as a Pastry Chef?

All chefs have a style, and most evolve over the course of their career. Starting out,
many young chefs imitate what they have encountered in their career, books,
magazines, Internet, and television. As your career continues, you will begin to
formulate your own style from the many experiences in your career.
Developing your own style helps to create your own brand. This is something that
will develop over your career. Variety is important. Using the five components of
dessert design will help you to diversify the menu. The best way to evaluate this is
to lay out all the desserts on your menu together and look at what is on the table.
The early step of sketching the plates helps to prevent too much repetition on the
menu. Some items can still be overlooked, so once the menu is written and
developed, assemble all the plates and evaluate what you have in front of you. If
you notice repetition in these items, now is the time to make any necessary
changes.
What Plate Am I Going to Use?

A wide variety of plates is available. Plate selection is dependent on the size,
shape, and layout of the dessert. It is much easier to create a dessert to fit on a
plate, rather than having a plate and forcing a dessert to fit. The plate does not
make the dessert, but it can impact the final design and at the same time, take
away from the dessert. Many restaurants are limited by what plates they have.
Investing in new plates can be expensive. Restaurants have been serving desserts
in mason jars and martini glasses, creating new ways to use items found in
restaurants and kitchens.
Finding a unique plate creates a challenge for the chef. A plate that does not fit the
normal round, square, or rectangle is interesting and different. This can be a
challenge met with mixed results. While the plate may be different, it may make the
dessert too small or crowded on the plate. Keep in mind portion size and the ease
of eating the dessert on the plate when selecting a plate.
Flat, rimless plates create a challenge to the diner: there is no place to push the
food against to help scoop up the dessert. Additionally, items could fall off the plate
on the way to the table or frozen components could melt and run off on the table.
Alternately, deep bowls with large rims may make the portion size appear smaller,
or make the dessert challenging to access. Glass bowls and plates provide an
enticing view of the dessert from different angles. Ultimately, the plate should
enhance the dessert presentation, not distract from or overwhelm it.
Getting Started
With so many choices to make, it can be overwhelming identifying what to do first.
Here are some steps to getting started in developing a plated dessert:
1. Create an inventory of components.

2. Choose the main component for the dessert.
3. Select flavors.
4. Select garnish(es) and sauce.
5. Assemble dessert.
6. Evaluate final product.
Creating an Inventory
An inventory list will help to keep you organized as you move toward finalizing your
creation. Using the techniques you have gained through the use of this text,
categorize the items under main categories to create a visual reference. The
inventory helps to reduce overusing items multiple times on the same menu. The
items can be broken into main categories such as Sauces, Creams, Baked items,
Fruit, and Frozen. These categories can be broken down into further sub
categories. As an example, fruit can be broken down into color, preparation
method, and shapes.
Component Inventory
Creams
Chocolate Mousse—White, Curd Chiboust

Milk, and Dark
Bavarian Rice Pudding Rice

Pudding
Fruit Mousse Flan Cheesecake
Creaméux Crème Brûlée Blanc

mange
Baked Items
Cakes Pain de Genes Filo
Dacquoise Doughs Fried
Japonaise Short Dough Brioche
Jaconde Struesel Based Fritters
Pte a Choux Pie Dough Churros
Macarons Puff Pastry
Frozen Items
Parfait Ice Cream Granita
Semifreddo Gelato Ice Pops
Component Inventory
Creams
Soufflé Glace Sherbet
Sauces
Chocolate—Milk, White, Dark Foams Coulis
Sabayon Infusion Caramel
Anglaise Reduction Fluid Gel
Fruit
Colors Preparation Shapes

Method
Red Sauté Sliced Zest
Yellow Poach Julienne Supremes
White Dehydrate Batonette
Green Stew Tubes
Purple/Blue Roast Ribbons
Orange Leather Spheres
Compressed
Choose Main Component

The main component is the focal point of the dessert. The number of desserts on a
menu can range from as few as three up to seven. There is no set standard for the
number of desserts offered; the basic goal should be to offer a little something for
everyone. Once the number of dessert menu items has been determined, choose
the main component. This could be a simple list at first; it will be developed as the
process continues.
Determining this list can be as easy as evaluating what is currently on the menu or
visiting other similar restaurants in the area and looking at the menu. If the menu
has four items, choose basic ideas to start. Crème brûlée, cheesecake, tart or pie,
and cake are a good start. These items are easily identifiable to most people and
they provide a flexible foundation to build on.
Select Flavors
The flavor of the main component should be the dominant flavor on the plate. That
does not mean that it has to be the strongest flavor. Orange could be a dominant
flavor for the cheesecake. If a chocolate flavor is added to the plate, it should
complement the orange, not overpower it. Once the main flavor is selected, choose
two other flavors that will compliment it. In the example of the cheesecake,
selecting milk chocolate and coriander would be good choices.
Select Garnishes
Garnishes on the plate need to have flavor and purpose. They can provide
additional textures, temperatures, or visual appeal in the case of a tuile. Garnishes
can include frozen components, tuiles, sauces, fried items, or fruit. This is the point
when the dessert can develop into something more complex.
The main component has been selected as well as the three flavors, orange,
coriander and milk chocolate. Next the flavors need to be incorporated into the
remaining components of the dessert. The first thing to consider is the base of the
cheesecake, traditionally this would be a graham cracker crust. The base of the
dessert not only serves as crispy component on the plate, it also facilitates moving
the cheesecake. Not having a base under the dessert makes it difficult to transfer
from a sheet pan to the plate. The base can be the traditional graham cracker or
another cookie crumble, thinly rolled and cut short dough, or even cake. Looking at
the other components of the dish will help in deciding what the base should be. For
this application chocolate short dough will be used. It will create an appealing color
separation between the cheesecake and the plate; the dark color will help to
convey the chocolate in the dessert.
The next step is to continue building on the flavors of orange and milk chocolate
and incorporate the coriander. When using spices, use caution—these flavors can
become very strong and overpowering. The goal is incorporating these flavors in a
pleasant way and using them subtlety. As the ingredients are mixed and tasted, the
flavors have not had a chance to mature. During the maturation, spices and herbs
continue to infuse flavor. In the effort to provide a burst of coriander flavor, a good
place to incorporate it would be a coriander crisp. Not only will it provide flavor, but
also additional needed crunch.
In most restaurants, cheesecake is served with whipped cream. Using milk
chocolate mousse is a playful way to incorporate an aerated component to the
dish, mimicking the whipped cream. Since both cheesecake and mousse are
creams, there may be a need to add lighter, less fatty components to the dessert.
The high-fat percentage in the dessert creates a very rich and sometimes heavy
dessert. In an effort to reduce this, a thin layer of cake can be placed on top of the
cheesecake. Then it can be topped with the mousse and the coriander crisp on
top. This style of component is often referred to as a stack, and precision in
layering, cutting, and piping will all add to look of the final product.
The main component is now complete. The plate now has all the flavors and
different textures but only one temperature—cold. In restaurant service, it can be
difficult to include smaller warm components. Using a milk chocolate ice cream for
this dessert will reinforce the milk chocolate flavor and add a different temperature
item to the plate.
The ice cream can also build on the visual design of the plate. The chocolate color
of the ice cream and smooth texture create additional eye appeal. While frozen
components are often shaped using a scoop or quenelle, they can also be
molded. Current plating trends utilize large curls of ice cream or sorbet. When
innovating new shapes, be sure that the component will arrive to the guest in the
manner it was intended. When applicable, flavor combinations of contrasting colors
can be swirled together after freezing and scooped to add complexity to the plate.
Frozen components placed directly on a plate begin to melt and slide around like a
hockey puck on ice. An easy solution would be to place the ice cream on top of the
stack; this presentation works well with a round-shaped dessert. The stack on this
dessert will be an elongated rectangle; it would be best to place the ice cream
somewhere else on the plate. Bases for ice creams can be streusel, cake crumbs,
granola, chocolate, fruit, or even a shaped tuile cookie. The ice cream does not
need to be completely contained. There just needs to be something small placed
under it to hold its position. To incorporate fresh fruit on this plate, a simple fruit
salad of orange suprêmes (using the leftover orange from zesting), simple syrup,
and tapioca pearls will provide a base for the ice cream.
The last component needed to pull the dessert together is a sauce. Sauces are
used on the plate to add flavor, texture, color, design, and moisture to the plate.
When selecting a sauce, choose one that will add to the flavors in the dessert.
Saucing a plate can be done simply using a squeeze bottle, spoon, or paper
cornet. Using other pastry tools such as brushes, round cutters, and piped
chocolate can add a more complex design to the plate. Infusing a crème anglaise
with coriander will provide another way to incorporate the coriander on the plate
without overpowering the other components and will provide a thick sauce that will
hold its shape.
At this point the dessert could be written on the menu as:
Orange cheesecake, milk chocolate mousse, coriander crisp, milk chocolate ice
cream and orange tapioca “salad”
Garnishes can always be added or taken away—too much and the plate will
become confusing; too little and the plate looks unfinished. Ultimately, the flavor of
the dessert and the garnishes need to work together.
Now that flavor has been addressed, presentation must be considered. The color
of the cheesecake is neutral. The chocolate and the orange go well together and
the orange “salad” provides a brighter color as well as textural addition. The next
step is to sketch the dessert and decide on shapes.
Assembly
Assembly is one of the final steps in the process of creating a dessert. As the
dessert’s components are prepared individually and then assembled together as a
finished product tasting needs to be done. In addition to tasting, detailed notes
must be taken for processing after the final dessert is presented for the menu.
These notes will be used for developing a training manual for the restaurant.
FIGURE 10.5 Sketch for orange cheesecake
FIGURE 10.6 Picture of orange cheesecake, final

The final product should be a representation of the sketch produced earlier. Some
changes may need to be made along the way. Creating a dessert is a process, and
sometimes that process may be neverending. Documenting all the steps will help
make sure all information is available for consistency with each order, as well as
future plated desserts designs.
Evaluation
Even when the dessert is on the plate, the work continues. Everything needs to be
evaluated: cost, time to produce components, plate-up time, flavor, time to train
front of the house, and ultimately, a consideration of guest satisfaction. If any of
these factors show a problem, changes must be made to the dessert. It may be
noticed immediately or weeks later. Continue the process because, while the
dessert may taste great to the pastry chef and executive chef, if guests are not
ordering it, changes need to be made.
Creating a great dessert is not an easy task. Careful consideration and planning
must be done first before entering the kitchen. Mastering four of the five elements
of dessert design can make a good dessert, yet always remember that if flavor isn't
there, the dessert will be unsuccessful.
Recipes
This chapter does not include yield and portion sizes for plated desserts. This was
done intentionally as mold and portion sizes will vary.
Raspberry and Chocolate
Components
Reconstructed Hazelnut Base, page 229
Components
Chocolate Pain de Genes, page 195
Chocolate Raspberry Creméux, page 303
Chocolate Raspberry Mousse, page 303
Raspberry Sauce, page 115
Sanded Almonds (Caramelized Hazlenut recipe), page 398
Amaretto Ice Cream, page 303
Crispy Raspberry Foam, page 107
Procedure
1. Prepare reconstructed base recipe using pâte sablée, place a thin layer in a
quarter sheet pan lined with parchment paper; allow to set.
2. Add 14 oz (400 g) of the chocolate raspberry creméux; refrigerate to set.
3. Place a piece of the chocolate pain de genes on the creméux and refrigerate.
4. Fill the remainder of the quarter sheet pan with 11.5 oz (325 g) of chocolate
raspberry mousse and freeze.
5. Prepare the caramelized hazelnut recipe (page 398) using slivered almonds in
place of the hazlenuts. Complete the process to step 5 and reserve for plating.
6. Remove the chocolate raspberry mousse cake from the quarter sheet pan.
7. Apply the chocolate mirror glaze and refrigerate for 5 minutes to set the glaze.
8. Cut the cake into the desired shape.
9. Apply the raspberry sauce using a teaspoon.
10. Place a small pile of the sanded almonds and top with a quenelle of Amaretto
ice cream.
11. Place a piece of the crispy raspberry foam onto the mousse cake.
FIGURE 10.7 Raspberry and Chocolate
Amaretto Ice Cream

Portions: 36
NFMS 1 oz 28 g
Casein 0.7 oz 20 g
Glucose Powder 1.8 oz 52 g
Granulated Sugar 5.3 oz 150 g
Amaretto (28% alcohol) 1.4 oz 40 g
Procedure
1. Ice cream base process (page 158).
Chocolate Raspberry Cremeux

Yield: 1 lb (465 g)
Portions: 1
Milk 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 0.9 oz 25 g
Procedure
1. Prepare a crème anglaise (page 124) with heavy cream, milk, sugar, and yolks.
2. Emulsify chocolate and anglaise.
3. Add purée and strain through a chinois.
Chocolate Raspberry Mousse

Portions: 1
Half and Half 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 0.7 oz 20 g
Heavy Cream, whipped 13.9 oz 395 g
Procedure
1. Prepare using the chocolate mousse anglaise-based method (page 133).
Apple Consomme
Components
Clarified Apple Cider, page 98
Almond Financier, page 338
Compressed Apples, page 305
Brown Butter Ice Cream, page 169
Apple Chip, page 306
Pasta Dough, page 305
Ravioli Filling, page 306
Brown Butter Nuggets, page 114
Procedure
1. Prepare the apple cider using the gelatin clarification procedure on page 97.
2. Bake the almond financier in a 2.5-in. (65-mm) metal ring.

3. Place the compressed apples in the center of a bowl.
4. Stack the financier on the compressed apples.
5. Toss the three raviolis in the clarified apple cider and place in the bowl.
6. Add the clarified apple cider to the bowl.
7. Place a quenelle of brown butter ice cream on the financier.
8. Sprinkle with the brown butter nuggets and garnish with apple chip.
FIGURE 10.8 Apple Consomme
Compressed Apples
Portions: 12
Portion size: 2.5 in. (65 mm)
Yield description: 12 portions at 2.5 in. (65 mm)
Granny Smith Apples 11.6 oz 330 g

Procedure
1. Peel the apples and slice on a vegetable lathe.
2. Layer the apple slices sprinkle a small amount of the brown sugar between
each layer.
3. Repeat this to create five layers.
4. Place the apples in a vacuum bag and seal at 100% vacuum.
6. Before serving remove the apple from the bag and dry off with a paper towel;
cut into 2.5-in. (65-mm) rounds.
Pasta Dough
Yield: 7 oz (212 g)
Portions: 1
Bread Flour 3.5 oz 100 g
Water 1.4 oz 40 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Olive Oil 0.2 oz 5g
Procedure
1. Combine bread flour and salt in a bowl.
2. Make a well in the center of the flour and add the wet ingredients.
3. Stir the wet ingredients with a fork; gradually begin working in the dry
ingredients from the side of the bowl.
4. Once the dough begins to form, continue kneading by hand.
5. Wrap in plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes.
6. Using a pasta roller, roll the dough to #2 and fold.
7. Turn the dough 90° and repeat two more times for a total of three folds.
8. Roll the dough to #6 on the pasta roller.
9. Cover in plastic wrap and refrigerate.
Ravioli Filling
Yield: 5 oz (155 g)
Portions: 62
Yield description: 62 portions at 0.08 oz (2.5 g)
Ricotta Cheese 3.5 oz 100 g
Vanilla Paste 0.2 oz 5g
Dried Cranberries, rehydrated and diced 0.7 oz 20 g
Salt 0.01 oz 0.5 g
Procedure
1. Combine ricotta cheese, powdered sugar, vanilla paste, and salt in a food
processor.
2. Fold in cranberries.
3. Place 0.8 oz (2.5 g) of filling on the pasta dough.
4. Brush a thin layer of egg wash on the pasta dough around the filing.
5. Place a second piece of dough on top.
6. Remove any air bubbles and press to seal.
7. Cut with a 1.5-in. (40-mm) round fluted cutter.
8. Cook the ravioli in simmering salted water for 3 to 4 minutes or until al dente.
9. Cool in ice water, reserve for service.
Apple Chip
Yield: 7 oz (200 g)
Portions: 1
Granny Smith Apples 2 each 2 each
Water 1 lb 480 g
Sugar 12 oz 360 g
Procedure
1. Using a French knife, cut the apple in half down the center.
2. Slice the apples 1/16 in. (1.5 mm) thick on a meat slicer.
3. Combine water and sugar; bring to a boil.
4. Pour the boiling syrup over the apples.
5. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight.
6. The following day remove the apples from the syrup.
7. Dry the apples on paper towels and place on a silpat.
8. Place the apples in a 150°F (65°C) oven for 3 to 4 hours or until dry.
9. To test for doneness, remove one of the apple slices from the silpat and allow
to cool. The apple chip should snap cleanly. If it is flexible and bends, continue
drying.
10. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.
Linzer Bombe
Components
Hazelnut Dough, page 229
Raspberry Sorbet, page 174
Cinnamon Parfait, page 308
Hazelnut Microsponge, page 308
Cinnamon Crème Anglaise, page 308
Raspberry Sauce, page 115
Fresh Raspberries
Cocoa Butter Spray, page 436
Procedure
1. Roll hazelnut dough to ⅛ in. (3 mm).
2. Cut with oval cutter and bake; reserve for assembly.
3. Prepare raspberry sorbet and freeze; portion into 0.6-oz (18-g) molds.
4. Assemble the cinnamon parfait.
5. Pipe mold half full with the parfait and insert the frozen raspberry sorbet.
6. Fill the remainder of the mold with the parfait and freeze for 4 hours.
7. Unmold the parfait and spray with white chocolate spray.
8. Prepare the hazelnut microsponge.
9. Place the parfait on the hazelnut dough.
10. Pipe various size dots of the raspberry sauce and cinnamon crème anglaise.
11. Cut raspberries in half to garnish the plate.
FIGURE 10.9 Linzer Bombe
Cinnamon Parfait
Portions: 24 portions
Water 1.2 oz 35 g
Sugar 4.4 oz 125 g
Ground Cinnamon 0.01 oz 0.42 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, cinnamon stick, cinnamon, and vanilla bean in a
saucepan.
2. Make a pâte à bombe mixture with the egg yolks and sugar mixture (page 132).
When sugar mixture reaches 220°F (105°C); carefully remove the cinnamon
stick and vanilla bean.
3. When pâte a bombe is completely cooled, fold in cream.
Cinnamon Crème Anglaise

Portions: 24
Milk 4 oz 113 g
Sugar 2 oz 57 g
Egg Yolks 2 oz 57 g
Vanilla Bean, split and scraped 0.5 each 0.5 each
Procedure
1. Crème anglaise procedure; add cinnamon stick and vanilla bean while cooking.
Hazelnut Microsponge
Portions: 1
Sugar 2.8 oz 80 g
Hazelnut Paste 2.8 oz 80 g
Procedure
1. Combine eggs, sugar, and hazelnut paste with an immersion blender.
2. Using the immersion blender incorporate the flour.
3. Fill an ISI siphon halfway and fill with three nitrous oxide charges, shaking
thoroughly between each cartridge.
4. Using a pairing knife, poke four holes in the bottom of the cup to release steam.
The cake will not leak from the holes.
5. Fill the cup ¼ full with the cake batter.
6. Microwave for 40 seconds.
7. Turn the cup upside down on a cooling rack.
8. When completely cooled, remove the cake from the cup.
Banana and Chocolate
Components
Caramelized Bananas, page 311
Banana Mousse, page 173
Chocolate Pâte Sablée, page 254
Roasted Banana Sorbet, page 176
Caramel Sauce, page 311
Milk Chocolate Pliable Ganache, page 101
Banana Cake, page 310
Banana Chip, page 310
Procedure
1. Prepare pliable ganache using milk chocolate in place of the white chocolate
and omit the orange blossom water.
2. Roll some of the pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) and cut 1-in. (25-mm) discs and
bake.
3. Grate additional pâte sablée on a box grater onto a silpat, freeze, for 30
minutes then bake.
4. Prepare banana mousse using the fruit mousse recipe mold in sphere molds
and freeze.
5. After freezing spray the sphere in yellow white chocolate spray. Place onto the
pâte sablée disc.
6. Place the sphere on the plate.
7. Cut the pliable milk chocolate ganache into a wedge shape and place it around
the sphere.
8. Place the grated pâte sablée in the front curve of the pliable ganache to hold
the ice cream.
9. Add the remaining items—caramel sauce, banana cake, caramelized bananas,
banana chips, and quenelle of roasted banana sorbet.
FIGURE 10.10 Banana and Chocolate
Banana Cake
Portions: 1
Portion size: quarter sheet pan
Yield description: 1 quarter sheet pan
Banana Purée 4 oz 113 g
Sugar 4 oz 113 g
All-Purpose Flour 4 oz 113 g
Vegetable Oil 1.6 oz 45 g
Sour Cream 1.5 oz 43 g
Baking Soda 0.15 oz 4.3 g
Procedure
2. Combine wet ingredients.
3. Add wet ingredients to dry and mix until combined.
4. Spread into paper lined quarter sheet pan and bake at 350°F (175°C) for 20 to
25 minutes.
5. Reserve for plating.
Banana Chip
Yield: 12 banana chips
Portions: 12
Portion size: 1 banana chip
Yield description: 12 banana chips
Bananas 4 each 4 each
Lime Juice As Needed As Needed
Note: After slicing, reserve the extra banana for the banana cake.
Procedure
1. Peel banana and slice on a meat slicer 1/16 in. (1.5 mm) thick.
2. Place onto a silpat and brush with lime juice, to prevent oxidation.
3. Carefully lay another silpat on top of the bananas.
4. Place the bananas in a 150°F (65°C) oven for 3 to 4 hours or until dry.
5. Remove the top silpat after 2 hours.
6. To test for doneness, remove one of the banana slices from the silpat and allow
to cool. The banana chip should snap cleanly. If it is flexible and bends,
continue drying.
7. Store in an airtight container at room temperature.
Caramelized Banana
Bananas 2 each 2 each
Sugar As needed As needed
Note: This must be done à la minute; the caramel will dissolve quickly due to the water in
the banana.
Procedure
1. Slice the banana ¼ in. (6 mm) thick.

2. Coat one side of the banana in the sugar.
3. Caramelize the sugar with a blowtorch.
Caramel Sauce
Portions: 24
Portion size: ½ oz (14 g)
Yield description: 24 portions at ½ oz (14 g)
Sugar 4.8 oz 136 g
Water 1.3 oz 37 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar in saucepan, bring to a boil.
2. Continue cooking the sugar until a dark caramel is reached; the darker the
caramel, the more flavor the sauce will have.
3. Remove the pan from the heat; add the cream and vanilla bean.
4. Return the pan to a low heat to dissolve the caramel. Be careful to not boil the
sauce.
5. Once the caramel is completely dissolved; add the butter, do not stir.
6. Let the sauce cool in the pan; once cooled, stir in the butter.
Warm Coffee Tart
Components
Coffee Filling, page 313
Caramelized Pecans (Caramelized Hazelnuts), page 398
Vanilla Ice Cream, page 167
Chocolate Pastry Cream, page 346
Components
Chocolate Sauce, page 313
Crepe, page 314
Lemon Syrup, page 314
Procedure
1. Roll chocolate short to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick and line 3.75-in. (9.5-cm) tart pans.
2. Blind bake shells halfway and cool.
3. Prepare Coffee Tart Filling; fill tart shells and refrigerate.
4. Caramelize the pecans using the caramelized hazelnut procedure (page 398),
cool completely, and fold into the frozen vanilla ice cream.
5. Spread the chocolate pastry cream through a template onto a silpat.
6. Bake the pastry cream at 350°F (175°C) until the mixture looks dry.
7. Shape as desired while still warm; store in an airtight container.
8. For plating, bake the coffee tarts at 350°F (175°C) for 10 to 12 minutes.
9. While tarts are baking, warm the lemon syrup and toss the crepe strips in the
syrup.
10. Place the tart just off center on the plate.
11. Add the chocolate sauce around the tart.
12. Next put the crepe strips to the right of the tart.
13. Put a quenelle of the candied pecan ice cream on the crepe and add the tuile.
FIGURE 10.11 Warm Coffee Tart
Coffee Tart Filling

Portions: 18
Ground Coffee 0.4 oz 10 g
Butter 2.6 oz 75 g
Sugar 2.3 oz 65 g
Procedure
1. Combine heavy cream and ground coffee; heat and cover.
2. Steep for 10 minutes, strain coffee.
3. Melt chocolate halfway over a double boiler.
4. Bring cream and butter to a boil; emulsify with chocolate.
5. Fold egg yolks into ganache.
6. Make a French meringue with the egg whites and sugar.
7. Fold meringue into ganache in three additions.
Chocolate Sauce
Portions: 22
Water 2 oz 57 g
Sugar 2.5 oz 71 g
Cocoa Powder 1 oz 28 g
Semisweet Chocolate 58% 4 oz 113 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and corn syrup in a saucepan.
2. Bring liquids to a boil; add chocolate and cocoa powder.
3. Strain through a chinois and cool.
Crepes
Yield: 1 lb 6.8 oz (647 g)
Portions: 1
Cake Flour 2 oz 57 g
Bread Flour 2 oz 57 g
Sugar 0.75 oz 21 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Butter, Melted 2 oz 57 g
Milk, Warmed 8 oz 227 g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in blender; mix until smooth. Strain through a chinois.
3. Heat an 8-in. (20-cm) nonstick pan over medium heat; spray lightly with pan
spray.
4. When pan is heated, add approximately 2 oz (60 g) of crepe batter.
5. Tilt the pan in all directions to evenly coat the pan.
6. When crepe can be easily shaken in the pan, flip to continue cooking the other
side.
7. Place on parchment-lined sheet pan.
8. Once cooled, roll the crepe.
9. Using a French knife, cut the crepe into ¼-in. (6-mm) strips.
10. Wrap and store in the refrigerator.
Lemon Syrup
Portions: 1
Water 7 oz 198 g
Sugar 7 oz 198 g
Lemon Zest 0.5 oz 14 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and zest in a saucepan.
2. Bring to a boil; cover and cool.
3. Store in refrigerator for service.
Tropical Stack
Components
Coconut Financier, page 316
Passion Fruit Curd, page 139
Chocolate Plaquette
Whipped White Chocolate Ganache, page 316
Mango Tuile, page 316
Mango Sauce, page 115
Coconut Sorbet, page 176
Procedure
1. Prepare the passion fruit curd using the lemon curd recipe.
2. Assemble the coconut financier and bake in a 3.25 in. (8.3 cm) savarin mold.
3. Cut chocolate plaquettes using a 3.25 in. (8.3 cm) round cutter.
4. Fill coconut financier with the passion fruit curd and place it in the center of the
plate.
5. Place a round cutter slightly larger than the savarin on the plate.
6. Using a squeeze bottle, pipe dots of the sauce along the cutter.
7. Twist the cutter clockwise and lift straight up.
8. Pipe the whipped white chocolate ganache on the chocolate plaquette; place
this on the coconut financier.
9. Place the mango tuile on the panna cotta and top with a scoop of coconut ice
cream.
FIGURE 10.12 Tropical Stack
Coconut Financier
Portions: 18
Desiccated Coconut 6.2 oz 175 g
Sugar 2.5 oz 70 g
Beurre Noisette, melted 3.2 oz 90 g
Procedure
1. Combine desiccated coconut, powdered sugar, sugar, and all-purpose flour in a
mixing bowl.
2. Add egg whites, beurre noisette, and butter to dry ingredients.

4. Fill savarin-shaped molds and bake at 350°F (175°C).
5. Cool and wrap; store at room temperature.
Whipped White Chocolate Ganache

Portions: 1
Heavy Cream #1 6.2 oz 175 g
Heavy Cream #2 9.2 oz 260 g
Procedure
1. Combine heavy cream #1, inverted sugar, and glucose syrup. Bring to a boil.
2. Emulsify with white chocolate.
3. Add heavy cream #2 and emulsify.
5. Whip in a mixer before use.
Mango Tuile
Yield: 12 oz (385.5 g)
Portions: 1

Yellow Pectin 0.02 oz 0.5 g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients in a food processor.
2. Spread the batter through a template onto a silpat through a template.
3. Bake the mango tuile at 350°F (175°C) until golden brown, shape as desired
while still warm.
Strawberry Cheesecake
Components
Cheesecake, page 144
Graham Cracker Crust, page 318
Black Pepper Meringue, page 318
Fresh Strawberries
Vanilla Bean Vodka Foam, page 98
Strawberry Sauce, page 115
Procedure
1. Prepare the cheesecake base; add the zest of 1 orange to the base and bake in
a half sheet pan.
2. Prepare the vanilla bean vodka foam.
3. Cut a 4-in. (10-cm) round from the cheesecake.
4. Cut strawberries into quarters and brush with clear glaze.
5. Place dots of the foam and sauce on top of the cheesecake.
6. Arrange the fruit and glaze.
7. Place the meringues.
FIGURE 10.13 Strawberry Cheesecake
Graham Cracker Crust

Portions: 1
Graham Cracker Crumbs 8.8 oz 250 g
Butter, melted 6 oz 170 g
Procedure
1. Combine graham cracker crumbs and butter.
2. Spread a thin layer of graham cracker crust in a half sheet pan.
3. Bake for 5 minutes at 350°F (175°C).
4. Once cooled, top with cheesecake batter and bake.
Black Pepper Meringue

Portions: 1
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Black Pepper As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Prepare a Swiss meringue with the egg whites and sugar.
2. Once cooled, pipe into long tubes with a ¼-in. (6-mm) plain pastry tip onto
parchment paper.
3. Grind black pepper onto meringue.
4. Dry in a 200°F (95°C) oven until completely dry.
5. Cut into pieces and store in an airtight container.
Pear and Hazelnut
Components
Gianduja Bavarian, page 320
Hazelnut Pain de Genes, page 321
Pear Williams Liquor Bonbon, page 410
Hazelnut Streusel, page 321
Sous Vide Pineapple, page 349
Hazelnut Croquant, page 321
Pineapple Sherbet, page 171
Caramelized Hazelnuts, page 398
Poached Pears, page 286
Orange Fluid Gel, page 322
Procedure
1. Place the frozen ring of gianduja Bavarian on the plate; allow 5 to 10 minutes to
thaw.
2. Place the hazelnut pain de genes in the ring.
3. Using a spoon, add some of the hazelnut streusel and pineapple confit.
4. Add the sliced poached pears and Pear Williams liquor bonbon.
5. Place four candied hazelnuts.
6. Pipe the orange fluid gel.

7. Quenelle the pineapple sherbet and add the hazelnut croquant.
FIGURE 10.14 Pear and Hazelnut
Gianduja Bavarian
Portions: 12
Milk 6.2 oz 175 g
Sugar 1.3 oz 36 g

Gianduja 6 oz 170 g
Procedure
1. Prepare using the Bavarian procedure (page 133).
2. Add the cooked Bavarian base to the gianduja and emulsify.
3. Using a pastry bag, pipe into 5.75-in. (14-cm) ring molds and freeze.
Hazelnut Marzipan
Portions: 1
Hazelnuts, lightly toasted 6.2 oz 175 g
Sugar 4.8 oz 136 g
Glucose 1.6 oz 45 g
Water 1.6 oz 45 g
Pear Williams Liqueur 0.5 oz 15 g
Procedure
1. Rough-chop hazelnuts in a food processor; place on a silpat-lined sheet pan.
2. Combine water, sugar, and glucose in saucepan and bring to a boil.
3. Cook sugar syrup to 239°F (115°C) and pour over hazelnuts.
4. Cool mixture completely.
5. Return mixture to food processor and add Pear Williams Liqueur (Poire
William).
6. Grind to a fine paste.
7. Reserve for Hazelnut Pain de Genes.
Hazelnut Pain de Genes

Yield: 1 lb 11 oz (777.5 g)
Portions: 1
Hazelnut Marzipan, page 320 11.4 oz 325 g
Eggs 8.8 oz 250 g
Salt 0.08 oz 2.5 g
Beurre Noisette 3.2 oz 90 g
Water 0.5 oz 15 g
Procedure
1. Place hazelnut marzipan in a mixer with paddle attachment.
2. Slowly add eggs one at a time, scraping between additions.
3. Add inverted sugar and scrape.
4. Add flour, salt, and beurre noisette.
5. Spread in half sheet pan lined with a silpat.
7. Cool and wrap, reserve for plating.
Hazelnut Croquant
Yield: 6 oz (175 g)
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion 6 oz (175 g)
Fondant 3.2 oz 90 g
Glucose 2.1 oz 60 g
Hazelnuts, toasted and chopped 0.9 oz 25 g
Procedure
1. Combine fondant and glucose in a saucepan and cook to a caramel.
2. Pour onto silpat and cool.
3. Grind to a fine powder in a food processor.
4. Sift powder onto a silpat and top with chopped hazelnuts.

5. Bake 350°F (175°C) until melted.
Hazelnut Streusel
Yield: 4 oz (121 g)
Portions: 1
Butter 1.1 oz 30 g
Orange Zest ½ each ½ each
Hazelnuts, ground 1.1 oz 30 g
Flour 1.1 oz 30 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Procedure
1. Cream butter, brown sugar, and zest with a paddle.
2. Add sifted dry ingredients.
3. Spread mixture onto a parchment lined half sheet pan.
4. Bake 350°F (175°C) until golden brown.
Orange Fluid Gel

Portions: 20
Pineapple Purée 1.8 oz 50 g
Agar 0.04 oz 1g
Blood Orange Purée 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Combine orange juice and pineapple purée.
2. Combine agar and xanthan gum; add to orange juice mixture with an immersion
blender.
3. Bring this mixture to a boil.
4. Cool on an ice bath.
5. The sauce will gel to a solid. Use an immersion blender to break up the gel.
6. Adjust the consistency using the remaining blood orange purée.
Apricot Tart
Components
Apricot Pectin Gel (apple pectin gel), page 285
Pistachio Cream, page 324
Milk Chocolate Creméux, page 327
Caramelized White Chocolate Mousse, page 132 (pâte bombe mousse)
Apricot Sorbet, page 176
Apricot Sauce, page 115
Caramel Popcorn, page 325
Procedure
1. Roll the pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick.
2. Line a 3.5-in. (9-cm) tart shell and refrigerate.
3. Prepare the roasted white chocolate mousse mold into savarin molds and
freeze.
4. Cut a disc of the apricot gel; place it in the bottom of the unbaked tart shell.
5. Pipe a thin layer of the pistachio cream on top of the apricot gelée and bake the
shell.
6. After the shell has cooled, prepare the milk chocolate creméux and fill the shell
to the top.
7. Unmold the caramelized white chocolate mousse and spray with the
caramelized white chocolate spray; return to the freezer for 5 minutes.
8. Place the caramelized white chocolate mousse on the tart.
9. Pipe a layer of apricot sauce in the center of the savarin.
10. Place the tart on the plate and sauce.
11. Top the tart with a scoop of apricot sorbet.

12. Garnish with caramel popcorn.
FIGURE 10.15 Apricot Tart
Caramelized White Chocolate

Yield: 1 lb (480 g)
Portions: 1
White Chocolate 1 lb 480 g
Procedure 1
1. Put white chocolate in a quarter sheet pan.
2. Place the pan in a 250°F (120°C) oven.
3. Stir every 10 minutes, cook for approximately 30 to 60 minutes or until the white
chocolate becomes a deep caramel color.
4. After removing the chocolate from the oven, process with an immersion blender
to remove any lumps.
Procedure 2
1. Place white chocolate in a vacuum bag and seal at 100%.
2. Fill a pressure cooker halfway full of water with the lid off; begin to heat the
water.
3. Place the bag in the pressure cooker and seal; continue to heat according to
the manufacturer's instructions.
4. Cook the white chocolate for 20 minutes.
5. Cool the pressure cooker and carefully remove the lid.
6. Dry the bag of chocolate and allow to cool.
7. Melt the caramelized white chocolate and process with an immersions blender
to remove any lumps.
Pistachio Cream
Portions: 1
Butter 3.2 oz 90 g
Sugar 3.2 oz 90 g
Eggs 3.2 oz 90 g
Procedure
1. Combine butter, sugar, almond flour, and pistachio flour with a paddle on low
speed.
2. Slowly add eggs one at a time, scraping between additions.

3. Refrigerate.
Caramel Popcorn
Portions: 1
Popcorn Kernels 1.9 oz 55 g
Vegetable Oil As needed As needed
Salt 0.2 oz 7g
Butter 4.2 oz 120 g
Honey 1.8 oz 50 g
Baking Soda 0.08 oz 2.3 g
Procedure
1. Coat the bottom of a saucepan with vegetable oil and heat.
2. Add popcorn kernels and cover; continue shaking the pan until popping stops.
3. Toss the salt on the popcorn and cool on a sheetpan.
4. Melt butter and add brown sugar, honey, and corn syrup.
5. Cook to 300°F (150°C).
6. Add baking soda and quickly toss with popcorn.
7. Dry in a 200°F (93°C) for 10 to 15 minutes.
8. Press into metal cake ring, cool completely.
9. Slice on a meat slicer and store in an airtight container.
S'more Saint Honoré
Components
Puff Pastry, page 82
Pâte á Choux, page 346
Components
Graham Cracker Croustillant, page 327
Chocolate Ice Cream, page 167
Dark Chocolate Mousse, page 135
Chocolate Raspberry Cremeux, omit raspberry puree, page 303
Marshmallow, page 406
Graham Cracker Crème Anglaise, page 328
Procedure
1. Prepare marshmallow and pipe with a 0.4-in. (10-mm) plain tip; cut and tie
marshmallow into knots.
2. Prepare Pâte á Choux with graham cracker croustillant.
3. Roll puff pastry to 1/16 in. (2 mm) thick and dock. Bake between two silicone
mats until golden brown.
4. Cut puff pastry into a strip 1.25 in. x 6 in. (3 cm x 15 cm)
5. Fill Pâte á Choux with chocolate creméux.
6. Attach the Pâte á Choux using caramel.
7. Using a star tip pipe the chocolate mousse between the Pâte á Choux; leave
room at the end of the puff pastry for the chocolate ice cream.
8. Place the strip on the plate; use a small amount of mousse to secure the puff
pastry to the plate.
9. Place the marshmallow knots on the top of the mousse.
10. Sauce the plate.
11. Place the quenelle of chocolate ice cream on the end of the strip.
FIGURE 10.16 S'more St Honore
Graham Cracker Croustillant

Portions: 1
Butter 3.5 oz 100 g
Graham Cracker Crumbs 4.4 oz 125 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Procedure
1. Combine all ingredients with a paddle.
2. Roll to 1/16 in. (2 mm) thick between two sheets of parchment paper and freeze.
3. Cut with a round cutter to fit on piped Pâte á Choux.
4. Bake Pâte á Choux according to recipe.
Dark Chocolate Creméux

Yield: 2 lb (830 g)
Portions: 1
Milk 8.8 oz 250 g
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Prepare a crème anglaise (page 124) with the heavy cream, milk, sugar, and
egg yolks.
2. Emulsify the crème anglaise with dark chocolate.
3. Strain through a chinois and store in the refrigerator for service.
Graham Cracker Anglaise

Portions: 26
Milk 4.2 oz 120 g
Graham Crackers 1 oz 27.5 g
Honey 0.5 oz 14 g
Egg Yolks 2 oz 57 g
Procedure
1. Combine milk and heavy cream in a saucepan and scald.
2. Remove from heat and add vanilla bean and graham crackers (do not stir);
cover with plastic wrap and steep for 5 minutes.
3. Strain the mixture through a chinois. Do not press the liquid out of the graham
crackers; this will make the crème anglaise gritty.
4. Some of the milk and cream will be lost in the process of steeping in the
cookies. Make up the difference with 50% cream and 50% milk to return the
total weight of milk and cream to 8 oz (240 g).
5. Make a crème anglaise (page 124) with infused milk and cream mixture, brown
sugar, honey, and egg yolks.
6. Strain through a chinois, chill on an ice bath.
Key Terms
Scattered
Flavor families
Umami
Monochromatic
Sameness
à la minute
Garnishes
Tuile
Stack
Quenelle

1. Discuss the five key components of plated desserts. Which of these is the most
important, and why?
2. What are the five basic tastes? How can they be used to help bring balance to
a rich dessert?
3. Why is it important to use different textures and temperatures on the plate?
4. When creating a new plated dessert, there are six steps involved. Explain why
the last step is important to the process.
5. Design a new dessert based on pumpkin pie, carrot cake, or banana split using
the six steps of developing a new dessert.
Petits-Fours Page 1 of 45
CHAPTER 11
Petits-Fours
The wood-burning ovens of the 1800s didn't have the modern conveniences of
today's ovens. It took a considerable amount of time to heat the oven. Once heated
it was referred to as the grand-four, or large oven. After cooking all the larger items
in the oven the heat source was extinguished but it took a long time for the oven to
cool completely. Not wanting to waste resources, this gave the bakers the petits-
fours, or small oven. The lower temperature was ideal for producing smaller cakes
and pastries.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Define the three categories of petits-fours.
2. Design a petits-fours buffet.
3. Make a selection of petits-fours sec, glacé, and contemporary.
4. Produce fondant and glaze petits-fours.
Introduction to Petits-fours
Petits-fours are smaller in size compared to other pastries and are intensely
flavored. Literally named after the oven they are baked in and translating from the
French to mean “small oven,” these one- to two-bite pastries are broken down into
three categories: sec, glacé, and contemporary. Oftentimes, chocolates and
confections (Chapter 12) are served along with petits-fours. The three
categories—sec, glacé, and contemporary—encompass pastries from a simple
butter cookie dipped in chocolate to a fresh fruit tart. The combination of flavors,
textures, and color of the petits-fours is only limited by the creativity of the chef.
Petits-fours are served as part of a dessert buffet, tea service, pre-dessert, room
service amenity, or as a complimentary item along with the check. Pre-dessert is a
plated presentation of one petit-four. This is a complimentary item served between
the main course and dessert at fine dining restaurants. In a restaurant, a selection
of petits-fours can also be served after the meal along with the check.
In some way, petits-fours can be compared to hors d'oeuvres. Originally hors
d'oeuvres, translated to “outside the work,” were prepared by the wait staff with
leftover products given to them by the chef. The front of the house is no longer
responsible for preparing food in this manner. However, part of the origin of the
hors d'oeuvres tradition is still alive today. Chefs create amuse bouche and hors
d'oeuvres using the same approach of cross utilization of ingredients and recipes
from menu items to assemble these small bites of food. The pastry chef employees
the same approach, using base recipes such as lemon curd, pastry cream, cakes,
tart dough, and fresh fruit.
Petits-fours are small complex pastries and some may take a considerable amount
of time to assemble but this is what sets them apart from other pastries. Many
times the flavors and components found in petits-fours may just be a smaller
version of a plated dessert, cake, or tart. When building a production schedule for
cakes or tarts, prepare additional fillings or doughs that can be reserved for petits-
fours production. To save time, extra mousse from assembling cakes can be
molded in flexipans and frozen for future use.
Sec
The category of petits-fours sec includes all dry products. It is the simplest form of
petits-fours, including butter cookies, small cakes, and tuiles. The benefit of petits-
fours sec is that they can be prepared in advance. Cookies can be made in
advance, shaped and refrigerated or frozen and baked the day of the event. Cakes
can also be mixed and pans filled to await baking at the last possible minute to
ensure a fresh, moist product.
FIGURE 11.1 Presentation of petits-fours sec (clockwise from top):

speculaas, sablé Breton, romias
Sec items provide a petits-fours presentation with color, texture, and shapes that
cannot be achieved with other petits-fours. Due to the simplicity of these items, the
execution of the procedure must be perfect. Adding additional elements to these
items can increase their complexity. Cookies can be filled; dried or macerated fruit
can be added to cakes; a chocolate garnish can be added; or a piped rosette of
ganache can be used to add flavor, texture, and design to the finished petits-fours.
Cookies and cakes included in this chapter can be used in many other items
produced in the pastry shop. They can be utilized in plated desserts, tarts, cakes,
and even as a garnish for other petits-fours. Macarons can be used unfilled to
garnish the side of an entremets, or piped small and used as garnish for a
contemporary petits-fours. Cookies such as speculaas can be baked and infused
into a custard or cream, giving it the flavor of the cookie. It is important to consider
cross utilization of flavors and products to be able to prepare the wide variety of
items that come out of the pastry shop.
Recipes
Romias
Portions: 50 cookies
Yield description: 50 cookies at 0.43 oz (13 g)
Butter 8.8 oz 250 g
Vanilla Bean Powder 0.07 oz 2g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Procedure
1. Cream butter and powdered sugar.
2. Add vanilla powder and salt.
3. Add egg whites in three additions; scrape between each addition.
4. Add flour and mix until ingredients are combined.
5. Pipe using a sultan tip onto a silpat-lined sheet pan.
6. Fill with nougatine mixture (see following recipe).
7. Refrigerate for 1 hour before baking.
8. Bake at 350°F (175°C) until light golden brown.
Romias Nougatine
Portions: 50
Chopped Almonds 3.5 oz 100 g
Butter, cubed 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Combine glucose and brown sugar.
2. Warm to dissolve sugar.
3. Add butter and chopped almonds.
4. Cool to room temperature and reserve for cookie assembly.
Speculaas
Yield: 1 lb (471 g)
Butter 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 1.1 oz 30 g
Speculaas Spice Blend, page 334 0.17 oz 5g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Eggs 0.9 oz 25 g
Milk 0.3 oz 7.5 g
Baking Powder 0.1 oz 3g
Procedure
1. Sift flour and baking powder.
2. Cream butter, brown sugar, and sugar.
3. Add spice mixture and salt.

4. Combine eggs and milk; add in three additions scraping between additions.
5. Add flour and mix until combined.
6. Refrigerate for a minimum 2 hours.
7. Roll to dough to a thickness of 1/8 in. (3 mm).
8. Cut with a star cutter and place onto silpat-lined sheet pan.
9. Lightly brush dough with water and sprinkle with granulated sugar.
Speculaas Spice Blend

Yield: 4 oz (132 g)
Portions: 1
Cinnamon 2.4 oz 67 g
Nutmeg 0.7 oz 19 g
Clove 0.7 oz 19 g
Ginger 0.5 oz 15 g
Cardamom 0.25 oz 7g
White Pepper 0.18 oz 5g
Procedure
2. Reserve for speculaas cookie recipe.
Sablé Breton
Yield: 3 lb 5.9 oz (1620 g)
Components
Powdered Sugar (as needed)
Procedure
1. Roll sablé Breton dough to 4 mm.
2. Cut with a plain 1.6-in. (4-cm) round cutter.
3. Place dough into a buttered 1.6-in. (4-cm) metal ring.
4. Bake at 350°F (175°C) 8–10 minutes.
Lemon Viennese
Butter 4.4 oz 125 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Lemon, zested with microplane 2 each 1 each
Egg whites 0.7 oz 20 g
Powdered Sugar, for dusting As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Cream butter and powdered sugar.
2. Add salt and lemon zest.
3. Add the egg whites in 3 additions; scrape between each addition.
4. Add flour mix until combined.
5. Pipe using a star tip in a “W” shape onto parchment-lined sheet pans.
6. After piping refrigerate for 1 hour.
FIGURE 11.2 Pistachio Diamond, Biscotti, Lemon Viennese, Orange Tuile
Pistachio Diamonds
Butter 8.1 oz 230 g
Pistachios, chopped 1.4 oz 40 g
Sugar As needed As needed
Procedure
2. Add flour, pistachio paste and chopped pistachios; mix until combined.
3. Roll dough into logs 1.5 in. (40 mm) in diameter and freeze.
4. Remove dough from the freezer and moisten with water; roll in granulated
sugar.
5. Allow dough to temper for a few minutes.
6. Cut into ¼ in. (7 mm) and place on a silpat-lined sheet pan.
Orange Tuile
Yield: 9 oz (258 g)
Portions: 43 tuile
Yield description: 43 tuile at 0.2 oz (6 g)
All-Purpose Flour 1 oz 28 g
Pectin Yellow 0.03 oz 0.8 g
Butter 1.4 oz 40 g
Almonds, chopped 1.8 oz 50 g
Candied Orange Peel, page 337 0.4 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Combine flour, pectin, powdered sugar, chopped almond, and chopped orange
peel.
2. Add melted butter and orange juice, mix until combined.
4. Scoop tuile batter into balls 0.5 in. (12 mm) in diameter and place a silpat-lined
sheet pan.
5. Bake at 350°F (175°C) until the center of the tuile is a light golden brown.
6. Remove the sheet pan from the oven and allow to cool slightly.
7. Using an offset pallet knife, remove the warm tuile from the pan and place it
over a rolling pin to shape.
8. After tuile has completely cooled store in an airtight container.
Candied Citrus Peel
Oranges 12 each 12 each
Salt 0.6 oz 20 g
Water #1 2 lb 4.5 oz 1000 g
Sugar 3 lb 10 oz 1750 g
Water #2 1 lb 7 oz 750 g
Note: Any citrus fruit can be used in place of the orange. The candied orange peel will store
for several months in a sealed container in the refrigerator.
Procedure
1. Wash the fruit thoroughly.

2. Using a French knife; remove the peel from the fruit.
3. Cut the peel into ¼-in. (7-mm) wide strips.
4. Bring water #1 and the salt to boil; blanch the peel for 5 minutes.
5. Strain and rinse the peels.
6. Combine the 2 lb 12 oz (1250 g) of sugar with water #2 and bring to a boil.
7. Pour over peel, place plastic wrap directly on top of syrup (the peel must be
covered) and allow to cool overnight.
8. The next day, strain the syrup from the peel; reserve the syrup.
9. Add 4 oz (125 g) of sugar the strained syrup and heat just to a boil.
10. Pour over the peel, place plastic wrap directly on top of the syrup, and allow to
cool overnight.
11. Repeat steps 8 to 10 for 3 more days.
12. On the fifth day strain the syrup from the peel and scale 2 lb 12 oz (1250 g).
13. Add the glucose to the syrup and bring to a boil.
14. Pour over the peel and cover directly with plastic wrap.
15. The peel can be dried overnight on glazing racks and stored in the syrup under
refrigeration or in the freezer.
Biscotti
Butter 5.7 oz 163 g
Sugar 12 oz 340 g
Salt 0.09 oz 2.5 g
Vanilla Extract 0.9 oz 25 g
Eggs 5.8 oz 165 g
All-Purpose Flour 1 lb 1.9 oz 508 g
Baking Soda 0.2 oz 5g
Sliced Almonds 8.8 oz 250 g

Orange Zest 0.4 oz 10 g
Procedure
2. Add salt and vanilla extract.
3. Add eggs in three additions scraping between each addition.
4. Sift flour, baking soda, and baking powder.
5. Add sifted flour mixture, sliced almonds, and orange zest.
7. Scale dough into 9-oz (250-g) pieces.
8. Roll into logs 12 in. (30 cm) long.
9. Bake at 350°F (175°C) on parchment paper lined sheet pans until golden
brown.
10. Remove from oven and let bars cool.
11. While still warm, slice with a serrated knife to desired thickness.
12. Lay sliced biscotti on a parchment-lined sheet pan and continue baking until
dried.
Chocolate Pistachio Biscotti
Chocolate Chips 4.4 oz 125 g
Pistachios 5.3 oz 150 g
Variation
Replace almonds and orange zest with chocolate chips and pistachios.
Hazelnut Financier
Portions: 25 cakes
Yield description: 25 cakes at 0.7 oz (20 g)

Butter 4.4 oz 125 g
Honey 1.4 oz 40 g
Griottine Cherries 25 each 25 each
Note: Hazelnut flour can be replaced with almond or pistachio flour.
Procedure
1. Brown butter in a heavy-bottom saucepan to make beurre noisette.
2. Combine dry ingredients.
3. Add egg whites to dry ingredients followed by beurre noisette.
5. Pipe into 1.5-in. (3.8-cm) molds; place one griottine cherry in the center of each.
6. Bake at 350°F (175°C).
FIGURE 11.3 Macaron, financier, madeleine (clockwise from top)
French Macaron
Yield: 2 lb 10 oz (1122 g)
Portions: 186 cookies (93 sandwiched cookies)
Yield description: 186 cookies (93 sandwiched cookies)

Egg Whites #1 3.9 oz 110 g
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Water 2.6 oz 75 g
Egg Whites #2 3.9 oz 110 g
Egg White Powder 0.07 oz 2g
Note: Liquid or powder color can be added to the meringue during mixing.
Procedure
1. Combine almond flour and powdered sugar in a food processor; grind for 1
minute.
2. Add water, corn syrup, and sugar to heavy-bottom saucepan.
3. Combine egg whites #2 and egg white powder in a stand mixer.
4. Cook sugar mixture to 240°F (114°C).
5. Turn egg whites on high speed, continue cooking sugar mixture to 245°F (118°
C).
6. Add cooked sugar mixture to egg whites; cool to 110°F (44°C).
7. Fold egg whites #1 into almond flour and powdered sugar mixture; this paste
will become stiff if left too long.
8. Fold meringue into mixture in three additions.
9. The finished batter should run slightly. If it is stiff, use a rubber spatula to
remove some of the air from the batter.
10. Place into pastry bag fitted with a ⅜-in. (10-mm) plain tip.
11. Pipe onto a silpat-lined sheet pan 1 in. (25 mm) in diameter.
12. Allow the macaron to dry at room temperature for 30 minutes.
13. Bake at 330°F (165°C) for 13 to 15 minutes; the cookie should not have any
browning
14. Fill with flavored ganache or buttercream.
Chocolate Macaron
Cocoa Paste 2.8 oz 80 g
Variation
1. Heat cocoa paste to 100°F (38°C).

2. Incorporate cocoa paste during step 7 above.
Madeleine
Butter 6.3 oz 180 g
Sugar 5.1 oz 145 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Honey 1.1 oz 30 g
Eggs 7.1 oz 200 g
Procedure
1. Cream butter, sugar, brown sugar, and salt.
2. Sift flour and baking powder.
3. Add honey to creamed mixture.
4. Add eggs in three additions, scraping between each addition.
5. Add flour and mix until combined.
6. Brush madeleine molds with soft butter and dust with flour.
7. Pipe batter into mold, fill ¾ of the way.
8. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
10. Immediately remove madeleines from pans.
Glacé
The next category, petits-fours glacé, includes items that are glazed. The glaze
can come in the form of poured fondant, chocolate glaze, fruit glaze, or caramel.
The glaze on these pastries gives them a bright shine, adds flavor, and protects
the product underneath from drying out while on the buffet. To further prevent
glazed items from looking dry, coat cakes in a thin layer of marmalade or thinly
rolled sheet of marzipan. The marzipan will provide a smooth surface for the glaze
as well as prevent the cake to absorb water from the glaze.
Oftentimes, when customers refer to petits-fours, they do not understand the wide
variety of pastries that this includes. They immediately think of the small square or
round cakes that are enrobed in pouring fondant. Pouring fondant is very sweet, so
it's important to consider this when using it as part of a petits-fours. Pairing fondant
with a pastry that has an acidic filling or one that is not overly sweet works best.
Pouring fondant is a product that can be made in the pastry kitchen or purchased
from a supplier. It is a mixture of water, sugar, glucose, and acid that is cooked and
cooled on a marble table. As the fondant begins to cool it is agitated, similar to
fudge. During this stage, the sugar begins to crystalize. The temperature the
fondant syrup is cooked to and the ingredients, glucose and acid, control the
crystallization. Agitation creates small crystals in the syrup, making the mixture
opaque.
When working with pouring fondant, the ideal working temperature is 110°F (43°C).
If the fondant is too thick when heated, water or sugar syrup can be added to
adjust the consistency. Exceeding this temperature will begin to melt the crystals
out of the fondant. As the fondant cools and dries, it will not shine, due to the
reduced amount of crystals. Dull fondant can occur if the fondant is overheated or
placed in the refrigerator. The shine of the fondant indicates a freshly made
product; dull fondant is associated with an older product.
FIGURE 11.4 Improperly glazed petits-fours (left), properly glazed petits-

fours (right)
Recipes
Traditional Petits-Fours Glacé
Yield: 54 cakes at 1.25 × 1.25 in. (3.1 × 3.1 cm)
Portions: 54 cakes
Portion size: 1.25 × 1.25 in. (3.1 × 3.1 cm)
Yield description: 54 cakes at 1.25 × 1.25 in. (3.1 × 3.1 cm)
Components
Petits-Fours Cake, page 345
Marzipan, page 344
Pouring Fondant, page 344
Raspberry Marmalade
Procedure
1. Spread a thin layer of raspberry marmalade on the top of cake.
2. Cut the cake in half and stack the layers.
3. Roll a piece of marzipan to thinly cover the top of the cake.
4. Freeze the cake.
5. Turn the cake upside down and cut into 1.25-in. (3.1-cm) squares or using
round cutter.
6. Glaze with pouring fondant.
FIGURE 11.5 Top to bottom: White chocolate pineapple, opera, citron,

traditional petits-fours glacé
Marzipan
Yield: 4 lb 12 oz (2180 g)
Portions: 1

Glucose 6 oz 180 g
Powdered Sugar, sifted 2 lb 3 oz 1000 g
Procedure
1. Using a paddle attachment mix almond paste with glucose on low speed.
2. Begin adding powdered sugar, not all of the powdered sugar will be needed;
add enough to form a soft dough.
3. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.
Pouring Fondant
Portions: 1
Sugar 2 lb 10 oz 1200 g
Cream of Tartar 0.04 oz 1g
Procedure
1. Lightly oil a marble table and metal bars, prepare a frame to hold the cooked
syrup.
2. Combine water #1 and sugar; bring to a boil.
3. Cook the mixture to 225°F (107°C).
4. Warm the glucose and add to the cooking sugar; continue cooking to 240°F
(116°C).
5. Pour onto oiled marble and sprinkle with water #2.
6. Cool the mixture to 110°F (43°C) and table as with tempering chocolate (page
378).
7. Once the syrup has crystallized, store it in a plastic container; cover the top of
the fondant with a thin layer of water. Allow fondant to rest for 24 hours before
use.
Reheating Fondant
1. Pour off the syrup from the top of the fondant.
2. Warm the fondant over a double boiler to 110°F (43°C). If the fondant is too
thick once warmed, add a small amount of the syrup that was on top of the
fondant.
Petits-Fours Cake
Portions: 1
Butter 8.5 oz 240 g
Sugar 2.1 oz 60 g
Eggs 8.5 oz 240 g
Procedure
1. Cream almond paste, butter and sugar with a paddle on medium speed.
2. Slowly add eggs, scraping between additions.
3. Add flour on low speed; mix until combined.
4. Spread onto a greased half sheet pan lined with parchment paper.
5. Bake at 350°F (175 °C) 15 to 20 minutes.
Chocolate Filled Pâte á Choux

Portions: 50
Portion size: 1.5 inch (3.8 cm)
Yield description: 50 portions at 1.5 inch (3.8 cm)
Components
Pâte á Choux, page 346
Chocolate Pastry Cream, page 346
Fondant, page 344
Procedure
1. Prepare pâte au choux; pipe into 0.75-in. (1.9-cm) rounds and bake.
2. Fill pâte au choux with chocolate pastry cream.
3. Prepare fondant; add unsweetened chocolate as desired to make chocolate
fondant.
4. Glaze the top of the Pâte á Choux.
Pâte á Choux
Yield: 1 lb 10 oz (761.5 g)
Portions: 50
Milk 7.9 oz 225 g
Butter, cubed 4.4 oz 125 g
Sugar 0.2 oz 5g
Salt 0.05 oz 1.5 g
Bread Flour 2.3 oz 65 g
Eggs 8.8 oz 250 g
Procedure
1. Combine milk, heavy cream, butter, sugar, and salt in saucepan.
2. Heat to a boil.
3. Add all-purpose flour and bread flour; stir and cook for 2 minutes.
4. Transfer the mixture to a mixer with the paddle attachment, mix until
temperature is 140°F (60°C).
5. Add eggs and mix until combined.
6. Pipe into desired shape on a siplat.
Chocolate Pastry Cream

Portions: 1
Pastry Cream, page 140 1 lb 8 oz 700 g
Procedure
1. Prepare pastry cream (page 123).
2. Place warm pastry cream and chocolate in a mixing bowl fitted with a paddle
attachment.
3. Mix on low to combine and cool the pastry cream.
4. Cover with plastic wrap and store in the refrigerator.
Citron
Yield: Forty-five 1.5 inch tarts
Portions: 45
Portion size: One 1.5-in. tart
Yield description: Forty-five 1.5-in. tarts
Components
Lemon Mousseline, below
Fondant, page 344
Candied Lemon Zest, page 337
Procedure
1. Roll sablé Breton dough to 0.2 in. (5 mm) thick.
2. Cut the sablé Breton using a 1.5-in. (40-mm) round cutter and bake.
3. Using a sultan tip, pipe Italian meringue and brown with a torch.
4. Prepare fondant and color yellow.
5. Place a toothpick into the frozen lemon mousseline and dip in the warmed
fondant.
6. Place on the meringue.
7. Remove the toothpick and cover the hole with a thin slice of candied lemon
zest.
Lemon Mousseline
Portions: 45
Yield description: Forty-five 1-in. (2.5-cm) spheres
Lemon Curd, page 139 8.1 oz 230 g
Butter 7.8 oz 220 g
Procedure
1. Cream butter on medium speed using a paddle attachment.
2. Slowly incorporate lemon curd.
3. Continue mixing until light and fluffy.
4. Pipe into 1-in. (2.5-cm) sphere mold and freeze.
Opera
Portions: 100 cakes
Portion size: 1.25 × 1.5 in. (2.5 × 3.8 cm)
Yield description: 100 cakes at 1.25 × 1.5 in. (2.5 × 3.8 cm)
Components
Dark Chocolate, melted
Jaconde, page 196
Coffee Syrup, page 348
Coffee Buttercream, page 348
Dark Chocolate Ganache, page 142
Procedure
1. Cut jaconde into half sheet pan pieces.
2. Spread the melted chocolate on one of the layers of jaconde. Allow this to
crystallize; then place chocolate side down.
3. Generously soak cake with coffee syrup.
4. Spread a layer of the coffee buttercream on the jaconde.
5. Place a sheet of jaconde on top of the buttercream and soak with coffee syrup.
6. Spread a layer of ganache on the jaconde.
7. Place a sheet of jaconde on top of the buttercream and soak with coffee syrup.
8. Spread a layer of coffee butter cream on the jaconde.

9. Refrigerate the assembled cake for 2 hours to set the buttercream and
ganache.
10. Glaze the top of the cake with the chocolate mirror glaze and refrigerate for 5
minutes to set the glaze.
11. Cut into 1.25 × 1.5 in. (2.5 × 3.8 cm) rectangles.
Coffee Syrup
Portions: 1
Water 5.3 oz 150 g
Sugar 5.3 oz 150 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar.
2. Heat to dissolve, then cool.
3. Add coffee extract.
Coffee Buttercream
Portions: 1
Swiss Buttercream 1 lb 5 oz 600 g
Procedure
1. Combine buttercream and extract with a paddle on low speed.
White Chocolate Pineapple
Yield: Fifty portions at 1.75 in. (4.4 cm) dome

Portions: 50
Portion size: 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) dome
Yield description: Fifty 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) domes
Components
Hazelnut Dough, page 229
Sous Vide Pineapple, page 349
White Chocolate Mousse, page 135
Colored White Chocolate Glaze, page 349
Jaconde, page 196
Procedure
1. Roll hazelnut dough ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick, cut with a fluted cutter 1.75 in. (4.4 cm)
and bake.
2. Drain sous vide pineapple.
3. Cut jaconde with a 1-in. (25-mm) round cutter.
4. Fill a 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) silicone dome mold ¾ full with white chocolate mousse,
place a small amount of pineapple inside followed by a piece of the jaconde
and freeze.
5. Unmold and glaze with colored white chocolate glaze, tinted yellow.
Sous Vide Pineapple

Portions: 1
Pineapple, brunoise 7.1 oz 200 g
Water 4.4 oz 125 g
Sugar 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and vanilla bean.
2. Cool completely; pour over pineapple in vacuum bag.
3. Seal bag at full vacuum and cook at 190°F (88°C) for 1 hour.
4. Cool and reserve in bag for assembly.
Colored White Chocolate Glaze

Yield: 2 lb 14 oz (1335 g)
Portions: 1
Water 6.9 oz 195 g
Sugar 10.5 oz 300 g
Food Coloring As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and glucose; bring to a boil.
2. Add the sweetened condensed milk and gelatin.
3. Pour over white chocolate and emulsify.
4. Add coloring as needed.
5. Glaze at 86°F (30°C).
Contemporary
Contemporary petits-fours contain more components than sec or glacé. They are
assembled with a minimum of three components: base, cream, and garnish.
Cakes, cookie dough, macaron, or chocolate are suitable bases for a
contemporary petits-fours. The base of the petits-fours is in place to facilitate
transferring during production, providing both a textural element and the design of
the petits-fours. The most important role of the base is to provide a way for the
guest to pick up the pastry. In addition to a cookie base, baked items such as cake
or meringue may also be used.
The flavor of the petits four is introduced through the creams. Custards and creams
can be used much in the same way they are incorporated in an entremets in
Chapter 8. Combing stirred custard with a mousse will give the petits-fours different
textures and flavors. To maintain the quality and moisture of the cream, a glaze or
chocolate spray can be applied.
The last component is the garnish. The garnish needs to represent the flavors
contained inside the petits-fours. Products that contain nuts can be garnished with
the nut contained in the pastry. This conveys the flavor and also alerts the guest
that have nut sensitivities that there are nuts in the pastry. A light sugar twist or
delicate chocolate garnishes provide a nice finish to contemporary petits-fours.
Pastry chefs continue to develop new and innovative ways to present their petits-
fours. Verrines, petits-fours assembled in glasses, continue to be a popular item.
The petits-fours is assembled in a glass using creams, mousses, streusels, cakes,
coulis, and even edible flowers. The use of verrines allows for different textures,
creams can have a reduced amount of gelatin making the texture very soft and
loose. The use of a clear container allows for creative layering of the dessert,
showing all the colors, textures and flavors of the desserts. While glass containers
provide excellent carriers for verrines, there are many plastic glasses and plates
available in different sizes, shapes, and colors to create new designs.
Recipes
Lime and White Chocolate Verrine
Yield: Thirty 2-oz (57-g) glasses
Portions: 30
Portion size: 2-oz (57-g) glasses
Yield description: Thirty 2-oz (57-g) glasses
Components
Lime Gelée, page 352
White Chocolate Creamy, page 352
Raspberry Cloud, page 99
Candied Sunflower Seeds, page 353
Procedure
1. Fill the glass with 10 g of lime gelée and refrigerate until set.
2. Top the gelée with 10 g of white chocolate creamy and refrigerate until set.
3. Repeat steps 1 and 2 to create 4 layers in the glass.
4. Using a spoon apply the raspberry cloud.
5. Sprinkle with candied sunflower seeds.
FIGURE 11.6 Lime and White Chocolate Verrine
Lime Gelée
Portions: 1
Yield description: 1 portion 1 lb 7 oz (656 g)
Lime Juice 5.8 oz 165 g
Sugar 4.6 oz 130 g
Water 12.7 oz 360 g
Vanilla Bean Powder 0.04 oz 1g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and vanilla bean powder in saucepan.
2. Heat to dissolve sugar.

3. Remove from heat; add gelatin and lime juice, and strain through a chinois.
White Chocolate Creamy

Portions: 1
Milk 6.5 oz 185 g
White Chocolate, chopped fine 8.6 oz 245 g
Procedure
1. Prepare a crème anglaise (page 124) with the milk, heavy cream, and egg
yolks.
2. Add the crème anglaise to the white chocolate; emulsify.
3. Next add the bloomed gelatin and strain through a chinois.
Candied Sunflower Seeds

Yield: 9 oz (238.5 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 2.5 oz 70 g
Water 1.2 oz 35 g
Sunflower Seeds 5.8 oz 165 g
Cocoa Butter 0.1 oz 3.5 g
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar in a saucepan and cook to 240°F (115°C).
2. Remove from the heat; add the sunflower seeds and stir with a heat-resistant
rubber spatula.
3. The sugar will crystallize, creating a thin coating of sugar on the seeds.
4. Return the pan to a medium-high heat; continue stirring the seeds until the
sugar caramelizes.
5. Stir in the cocoa butter.
6. Pour the sunflower seeds onto a silpat-lined sheet pan.
7. Allow seeds to cool completely; store in airtight container.
Cherry Chocolate Verrine

Yield: Forty 2.5-oz (70-g) glasses
Portions: 40
Portion size: 2.5-oz (70-g) glasses
Yield description: Forty 2.5-oz (70-g) glasses
Components
Pectin Cherry Gelée, page 108
Buttermilk Panna Cotta, page 139
Chocolate Flourless Cake, page 356
Chocolate Streusel, page 238
Chantilly (Stabilized), page 259
Chocolate Meringue, page 356
Procedure
1. Prepare the pectin cherry gelée; place half of the mixture into ¼-in. (6-mm)
sphere molds.
2. Cut the chocolate flourless cake with a 1.6-in. (4.2-cm) round cutter.
3. Angle the glass; place five spheres of the pectin cherry gelée and then fill with
0.9 oz (25 g) panna cotta; refrigerate.
4. Place the glass flat and fill the open area with the chocolate streusel.
5. Top with the Chantilly and add some chocolate meringue.
FIGURE 11.7 Cherry Chocolate Verrine
Chocolate Flourless Cake

Portions: 1

Butter 8.5 oz 240 g
Sugar 4.2 oz 120 g
Eggs 5.3 oz 150 g
Procedure
1. Whip eggs and half the sugar on high speed for 10 minutes.
2. Combine heavy cream, butter, chocolate, remaining sugar, and cocoa powder.
3. Melt over a double boiler.
4. Fold the whipped eggs into the melted chocolate mixture.
5. Spread onto a silpat-lined half sheet pan.
6. Bake at 350°F (177 °C) for 10 to 15 minutes.
Chocolate Meringue
Portions: 1
Sugar #1 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Sift second sugar and cocoa powder.
2. Make a common meringue with the egg whites and first sugar.
3. Fold the cocoa powder mixture into the meringue.
4. Pipe onto a parchment-lined sheet pan.
5. Bake at 212°F (100°C) until dry.
Macaron Surprise
Yield: Forty 1.5-in. (3.8-cm) macaron surprise
Portions: 40
Portion size: 1.5-in. (3.8-cm) macaron surprise
Yield description: Forty 1.5-in. (3.8-cm) macaron surprise
Components
Chocolate Macaron, page 340
Speculaas Cream, page 358
Sous Vide Poached Apples, page 358
Cocoa Butter Spray, Milk Chocolate, page 436
Chocolate Décor
Procedure
1. Prepare chocolate macaron and pipe to 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) diameter.
2. Unmold the speculaas cream and spray with milk chocolate spray to achieve a
velvet texture.
3. Return the speculaas cream to the freezer for 10 minutes.
4. Place the speculaas cream on the chocolate macaron.
5. Using a toothpick, dip the apple in the clear glaze.
6. Place the apple on the speculaas cream.
7. Top with the chocolate décor.
FIGURE 11.8 Clockwise starting at top: White Chocolate and Raspberry

Purse, Apricot Creme Fraiche, Fruit Tart, Macaron Surprise, Pistachio
Crunch
Speculaas Cream
Yield: 1 lb (475 g)
Portions: 40
Yield description: Forty 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) savarin molds
Milk 5.8 oz 165 g
Baked Speculaas Cookies 2.6 oz 75 g
Procedure
1. Combine milk and heavy cream in a saucepan and scald.
2. Remove from heat; add baked speculaas cookies (do not stir), cover with
plastic wrap, and steep for 15 minutes.
3. Strain the mixture through a chinois. Do not press the liquid out of the cookies;
this will make the cream gritty.
4. Some of the milk and cream will be lost in the process of steeping in the
cookies. Make up the difference with 50% cream and 50% milk to return the
total weight of milk and cream to 10.8 oz (330 g).
5. Make a crème anglaise (page 124) with infused milk and cream mixture, brown
sugar, and egg yolks.
6. Add the bloomed gelatin and strain through a chinois.
7. Deposit the cream into 1.75-in. (4.4-cm) savarin molds and freeze.
Sous Vide Poached Apples

Yield: 40 apple spheres
Portions: 40
Portion size: 0.8-in. (2.2-cm) spheres
Yield description: Forty 0.8-in. (2.2-cm) spheres
Granny Smith Apples, peeled 4 each 4 each
Water 15 oz 450 g
Rum 1.7 oz 50 g
Sugar 4.2 oz 125 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, rum, sugar, vanilla bean, and cinnamon stick in a saucepan,
bring to a boil.
2. Cover and cool completely on an ice bath.
3. Use a 0.8-in. (2.2-cm) parisienne scoop to portion the Granny Smith apples.
4. Combine the apples and syrup in a vacuum bag and seal at a full vacuum.
5. Cook in a thermal circulator at 185°F (85°C) for 90 minutes. Test the doneness
of the apples by gently squeezing them through the bag.
6. Place the vacuum bag on an ice bath to cool.
Fruit Tart
Yield: Forty 1.9-in. (4.8-cm) tarts
Portions: 40
Portion size: 1.9-in. (4.8-cm) tart
Yield description: Forty 1.9-in. (4.8-cm) tarts
Components
Almond Cream, page 80
Pastry Cream, page 140
Fresh Seasonal Fruit
Procedure
1. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick.
2. Line 1.9-in. (4.8-cm) tart shells and refrigerate.
3. Pipe a thin layer of almond cream in the shell.
5. After shells have cooled spread a thin layer of pastry cream on top of the
almond cream.
6. Arrange the fresh fruit.
7. Apply a thin layer of clear glaze to the fruit.
Pistachio Crunch
Yield: Thirty 1.5 in. (3.8 cm) pistachio crunch
Portions: 30
Portion size: 1.5 in. (3.8 cm) pistachio crunch
Yield description: Thirty 1.5 in. (3.8 cm) pistachio crunch
Components
Pistachio Crunch Base, page 360
Pistachio Buttercream, page 360
Pistachio Crunch Florentine, page 361
Procedure
1. Using a star tip, pipe pistachio buttercream on the pistachio crunch base.
2. Place the pistachio crunch Florentine on top of the buttercream.
Pistachio Crunch Base
Portions: 30
Portion size: 1.25-in. (3.1-cm) cakes
Yield description: Thirty 1.25-in. (3.1-cm) cakes
Butter 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 3.5 oz 120 g
Eggs 2.5 oz 70 g
Rum 0.2 oz 5g
Procedure
1. With the paddle attachment, cream butter, sugar, and almond flour.
2. Add eggs in two additions, scraping between each addition.
3. Sift baking powder and all-purpose flour.
4. Add rum to mixer.
5. Add sifted ingredients, mix to combine.
6. Pipe into 1.25-in. (3.1-cm) round silicone molds.
7. Bake at 350°F (177 °C) for 8 to 10 minutes.
Pistachio Crunch Buttercream

Portions: 1
Italian Buttercream 14.1 oz 400 g
Procedure
1. Soften buttercream in a mixer with a paddle.
2. Incorporate pistachio paste into buttercream.
Pistachio Crunch Florentine

Yield: 8 oz (240 g)
Portions: 30
Portion size: 1.25-in. (30-mm) rounds
Yield description: Thirty 1.25-in. (30-mm) rounds
Glucose 2.1 oz 60 g
Pistachios, chopped 2.1 oz 60 g
Butter 2.1 oz 60 g
Procedure
1. Warm glucose in a saucepan over a medium heat, do not cook.
2. Add brown sugar, pistachios, and butter; heat until sugar dissolves.
3. Pour Florentine onto a sheet of parchment paper.
4. Roll between two pieces of parchment paper.
5. Refrigerate on a sheet pan, this will facilitate removing the top parchment.
6. Bake on double sheet pans at 350°F (177°C) until Florentine is golden brown.
7. Cut 1.25-in. (30-mm) circles from the Florentine.
White Chocolate and Raspberry Mousse Purse

Yield: Fifty 1.4-in. (35-mm) cakes
Portions: 50
Portion size: 1.4-in. (35-mm) cake
Yield description: Fifty 1.4-in. (35-mm) cakes
Components
Sacher Biscuit, page 195
White Chocolate Mousse (Pâte à Bombe), page 135
Fresh Raspberries
Raspberry Marmalade
Dark Chocolate Wrap, page 362
Components
Cocoa Powder
Procedure
1. Cut the sheet of sacher biscuit in half; place one piece into a half sheet pan.
2. Spread a thin layer of raspberry marmalade on the cake.
3. Place the raspberries on the cake.
4. Prepare the white chocolate mousse; spread to fill the pan.
5. Place the remaining piece of sacher biscuit on top of the mousse and freeze.
6. Cut the frozen cake into 1.4-in. (35-mm) rounds.
7. Wrap in Dark Chocolate Wrap.
8. Lightly dust with cocoa powder.
Dark Chocolate Wrap

Yield: 9.1 oz (275 g)
Portions: 2
Portion size: sheet pan
Yield description: 2 sheet pans
Dark Chocolate 58% 1 lb 1 oz 500 g
Vegetable Oil 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Combine chocolate and vegetable oil.
2. Melt over a double boiler to 110°F (43°C).
3. Warm a sheet pan to 110°F (43°C).
4. Spread the chocolate mixture onto the back of the sheet pan, refrigerate until
set.
5. Remove the sheet pan from the refrigerator and allow to warm.
6. Once the sheet pan warms to room temperature, use a scraper to test that the
chocolate will roll up off the pan.
7. After the test strip is successful, scrape a strip of chocolate and wrap the cake.
8. Using your finger, pinch the top of the chocolate.
9. Once the cakes are wrapped, return to the refrigerator.
Apricot Crème Fraiche

Yield: Forty 1.3-in. (35-mm) apricot crème fraiche
Portions: 40
Portion size: 1.3 in. (35 mm)

Yield description: 40 portions at 1.3 in. (35 mm)
Components
Apricot Caramel, page 363
Pain de Genes, page 194
Apricot Halves
Green Cocoa Butter Color
White Chocolate
Procedure
1. Prepare apricot caramel and freeze.
2. Roll pâte sablée to ⅛ in. (3 mm), cut into 1.3-in. (35-mm) rounds, and bake.
3. Place apricot caramel on layer of pain de genes.
4. Cut apricot with a 1.1-in. (3-cm) round cutter.
5. Brush a piece of acetate with green cocoa butter.
6. After the cocoa butter has set, spread a thin layer of tempered white chocolate
on the acetate.
7. Wrap the bottom of the assembled apricot stack.
8. Allow chocolate to crystallize; remove the acetate band.
9. Place the wrapped apricot stack on the pâte sablée.
10. Pipe Italian meringue and torch.
11. Top the creméux with a slice of the apricot.
Apricot Caramel
Yield: 1 lb 13 oz (1235 g)
Portions: 1
Portion size: Half hotel pan
Yield description: 1 half hotel pan
Apricots, IQF 1 lb 8 oz 700 g

Water 1.2 oz 35 g
Sugar 3.7 oz 105 g
Note: Apples, pear, pineapple, or peaches can be used in place of the apricots.
Procedure
1. Mix the pectin and sugar.
2. Place the apricots in a half hotel pan.
3. Sprinkle the pectin mixture over the fruit and toss lightly.
4. Pour the water over the fruit.
5. Cover the top with a silpat.
7. Once cooled, freeze.
Petits-Fours Presentations
Petits-fours presentations can be very attractive, whether they are a small amenity
or a large buffet table. The presentation can vary from a pre-dessert, room service
amenity, passed, or buffet presentation. There are seven guidelines to help
develop a petits-fours buffet.
In most cases the guests specify that they would like a buffet table without
specifying the items. Be sure to incorporate a wide variety of flavors—the buffet
should have something for everyone. Chocolate items are always popular, but not
everyone likes chocolate—and the same holds true for fruit. Consider all options
when developing a selection for petits-fours presentations.
Petits-Fours Guidelines
1. Size: The proper size of the petits-fours should be 1 to 2 bites. The assortment
presented on the buffet should all be in the same range.
2. Shape: Using contrasting and complimentary shapes will help to create a
visually appealing buffet. Molds limit the shapes that can be made, based on
what is available in the pastry shop. Full sheet pan assembled cakes can be cut
into squares, rectangles, triangles, parallelograms, or trapezoids. Avoid cutting
these sheets with round cutters to minimize waste.
3. Flavor: Due to the small size of the petits-fours, intense flavor is needed.
Incorporating too many flavors will muddle the flavors, making them difficult to
distinguish. Try to avoid duplicating flavors on the buffet.
4. Color: Naturally occurring colors can make the buffet very attractive. Purées,
marmalades, glazes, and chocolate can produce attractive colors. If possible,
avoid adding large quantities of food coloring.
5. Garnish: The garnish helps to set petits-fours apart from simple pastries.
Garnishes made from chocolate, fresh fruit, chopped nuts, or candied fruit can
add interest to the pastries.
6. Precision: When presented to the guest, the petits-fours are lined up. When
assembling the individual pastries, focus on precision to ensure they are the
same. Accuracy during every step of the process—assembling, garnish
placement, and positioning on the platters—is extremely important to the final
presentation.
7. Quantity: Calculating how many pieces to make can be challenging.
Overproduce and money is lost, underproduce and a customer will be unhappy.
For a standard pastry buffet served after a full meal, three to four pieces per
person is adequate. A reception setting that serves hors d'oeurves will require
more pieces per person. The lighter meal eaten at a reception requires five to
six pieces per person. This may not seem like enough food, but this is based on
the average number of pieces eaten.
Pre-Dessert
Pre-desserts continue to gain popularity in fine dining restaurants and beyond. Just
as the chef sends out a complimentary amuse bouche, the pastry chef sends out a
complimentary pastry before dessert arrives. This sampling begins the transition
from savory to sweet courses and allows the pastry chef to show their creativity.
The pre-dessert can be a way to experiment with new flavors and techniques. It
gives the pastry chef the opportunity to research what appeals to the customer and
insight into what may be successful on future menus. Pre-desserts can be more
complex and include frozen components due to being served à la minute.
Room Service Amenity

Room service amenities are provided to very important guests, repeat guests, or
groups attending a conference at a resort or hotel. In some cases, the petits-fours
amenity will be served with a chocolate or sugar showpiece themed to the event.
The amenity is placed in the room prior to the guest arriving. When selecting petits-
fours for room service, amenities choose those that will not require refrigeration
and will not decrease in quality rapidly. Petits-fours sec, chocolates, and
confections are excellent options.
FIGURE 11.9 Room service amenity platter with sugar showpiece
Passed Presentation
Smaller receptions may request that the food is passed, or presented butler style.
In this format, servers carry trays with petits-fours and present them to the guest.
Passing food offers a personal touch to the service, as the server stops with the
petits-fours they provide a brief description of the item. It is best to arrange items
for passed presentation with one or two different petits-fours per tray. This
simplifies the refilling process and allows the server to move throughout the room.
More than two items results in slowing down the server's ability to move through
the room.
Buffet Presentation
The most common presentation method of petits-fours is a buffet. Buffet
presentations can be elaborate, including different elevations, props, fresh flowers,
or large showpieces. Regardless of all the decorations on the table the petits-fours
are the true star of the show. The petits-fours can be presented on trays, plates,
tiles, mirrors, or large silver platters. Large platters and mirrors give the petits-fours
a dramatic presentation. The pastries are carefully lined up in straight rows or
curves. Although this is a very attractive layout for the petits-fours, it is difficult to
refill. Large serving platters can hold as many as 100 pieces, and it looks great at
the beginning of the reception. Toward the end of the event, the platter will start to
look picked over and somewhat messy. It is not possible to refill the platter, and is
difficult to remove it during the event because of the large size.
Smaller plates give the buffet the look of a pastry shop. Items are presented with
one type of pastry on a plate. The plates are worked on and around the elevations
and props. The small plates make it easy to refill the buffet and keep it clean,
avoiding the picked-over look of the larger platters.
FIGURE 11.10 Petits-fours platter
Key Terms
Petits-fours
Pre-dessert
Petits-fours sec
Petits-fours glacé
Pouring fondant
Contemporary petits-fours
Verrines
Passed presentation

1. Identify the three categories of petits-fours and give an example of each.
2. Design a menu for a buffet reception for 250 people. Create two petits-fours
from each category and determine the correct number of pieces to produce.
3. What are the three components of a contemporary petits-fours?

4. What will happen if pouring fondant is heated too high?
5. What is the benefit of creating a verrine?
Chocolate and Confections Page 1 of 62
CHAPTER 12
Chocolate and Confections
The history of chocolate being used in beverages can be traced back more than
4,000 years. It played an important part in religious ceremonies, and was even
used as currency. As cocoa beans traveled around the world, new production
methods and techniques were created to produce chocolate. World War II saw
chocolate used by the United States as a way to boost the energy of soldiers.
Today, chocolate is an affordable luxury enjoyed by many. From mass-produced
chocolates to small artisan chocolatiers, there is a chocolate for everyone.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Prepare a variety of chocolates and confections.
2. Demonstrate how to temper milk, white, and dark chocolate using the
tabling and seeding methods.
3. Describe the process of manufacturing chocolate.
4. Explain what cocoa percentage represents.
5. Describe the differences between crystalline, noncrystalline, aerated, and
jelly confections.
Introduction to Chocolates and Confections

Chocolates and confections have increased in popularity in recent years.
Oftentimes they are served along with a petits fours buffet, offered as dessert after
a meal, or sold in chocolate shops.
Equipment
Chocolate Warmer
A chocolate warmer uses heat to melt chocolate slowly and evenly. A melter
cannot temper chocolate, but it can hold chocolate that has been melted to keep it
fluid.
FIGURE 12.1 Chocolate melter

(Credit: Photo courtesy of Tomric Systems, Inc.)
Chocolate Tempering Machine

A chocolate tempering machine melts the chocolate and tempers the chocolate.
There are two types of tempering machines—one version batch tempers the
chocolate and the other continually tempers. A batch-tempering machine tempers
all the chocolate at once. Running this machine for a long period of time will cause
the chocolate to overcrystallize and become thick. A continuous tempering
machine remelts the chocolate as it enters the storage tank and then tempers as
needed. This reduces the possibility of overcrystallization and provides a fluid
chocolate.
FIGURE 12.2 Chocolate tempering machine

Chocolate Enrober
A chocolate enrober is used to coat bonbons in chocolate. The enrober is used
along with a tempering machine. Many tempering machine companies also
distribute enrober systems that connect to the tempering machine. A series of belts
are used to coat the bottom and top of the chocolate in a thin coating of chocolate.
FIGURE 12.3 Chocolate enrober

Manufacturing Chocolate
Chocolate is an upscale product that travels a long distance before it is delivered to
pastry shop. The journey begins in the tropical regions, encompassing the areas
20 degrees to the north and south of the equator. The warm climate, high humidity,
and frequent rainfall produce the ideal growing environment for the cocoa tree.
Because the cocoa trees are sensitive to excessive sunlight and high winds, they
are planted among larger trees to protect them. The majority of cocoa beans
originate in West Africa, South America, and Southeast Asia.
Several factors contribute to the flavor of the cocoa beans produced. The first
factor is the type of bean: Criollo, Forastero, and Trinitario. Just as we see with
wine, the terroir, geography, geology, and climate all affect the flavor. Just as
important as where the cocoa beans are grown and which type is grown, the
manufacturing process will be used to develop the flavor of the beans. Chocolate is
made from a blend of cocoa beans, which helps to create a balanced flavor. Beans
are blended based on variety and the location of their place of origin.
Cocoa Bean Varieties
Bean Flavor Origin Percentage Characteristics

of World
Crop
Criollo 1%
Cocoa Bean Varieties
Bean Flavor Origin Percentage Characteristics

of World
Crop
Caramel, South Rarest of cocoa
nuts, vanilla, America beans; very flavorful
and tobacco
Forastero Strong Africa, 80% Good base bean

cocoa, bitter Ecuador,
and Brazil
Trinitario Spicy, Mexico 15% Hybrid of Criollo and

earthy, fruity and South Forastero; it is more
America resistant to disease.
It can take as long as two to three years for the cocoa tree to produce blossoms.
Once the blossoms are pollinated, they will grow into cocoa pods—it can take as
long as six months for the pods to mature. The tropical climate allows the cocoa
tree to produce pods year round. Cocoa trees have the ability to produce cocoa
pods for up to 30 years. Each pod contains 35–40 cocoa beans. This may seem
like a lot, but it takes 200 cocoa beans to yield 1 pound of chocolate. The process
of transforming cocoa beans into chocolate takes seven steps.
Harvesting
When the cocoa pods are fully ripened they are harvested. The workers cut the
pod from the tree using a machete. They are then split, revealing the contents of
cocoa beans and white pulp. The beans and pulp are collected and transferred to
the fermentation house.
Fermentation
The collected beans and pulp are placed in covered wood boxes for fermentation.
Fermentation can last from 5 to 7 days depending on the bean. During this time,
the beans are transferred between the boxes every 24 to 36 hours. This prevents
mold from forming on the beans and ensures that the beans are fermented equally.
Yeast and bacteria break down the white pulp to the point it is almost completely
dissolved. The dark brown color and flavor of the bean is developed during the
fermentation process. Too long of fermentation and the beans are destroyed; too
short and the flavor is not developed.
The fermentation process also prevents the beans from being able to germinate,
essentially killing the bean. Once fermentation is completed, the beans are dried,
ceasing fermentation and preparing the beans for transportation to the
manufacturer. About 75 percent of the world’s cocoa production is processed in
Europe and the United States, requiring the chocolate to be shipped long
distances. Drying the cocoa beans makes certain they will arrive to the
manufacturing facility in good condition.
Roasting
When the beans arrive at the factory, they are cleaned to remove any rocks or
other debris. Roasting the cocoa beans continues to develop the flavor—as many
as 400 flavors can be released at this time. The beans are roasted for 20 to 30
minutes at temperatures ranging from 212 to 284°F (100 to 140°C), depending on
the type of bean.
Shelling and Winnowing

In the next step, the beans are shelled, removing the outer husk of the bean. The
beans are extremely fragile after roasting and are easily broken during the shelling
process. To separate the bean from the husk, air is blown into the mixture forcing
the lighter husk material to separate from the bean. This is known as winnowing.
The broken bean pieces are now called cocoa nibs. The nibs are further processed
through a series of perforated screens to remove any additional husk.
Grinding, Blending, and Mixing

The nibs are then blended, combining different varieties of beans from different
locations to achieve the desired flavor profile of the final chocolate. The beans are
then ground, and the friction of grinding melts the cocoa butter. This unsweetened
mass is known as chocolate liquor. The liquor can now be processed in two
different ways. In the production of dark chocolate, sugar is added, or to produce
milk chocolate, sugar, and milk solids are added. The chocolate is then further
refined to reduce the particle size.
In the second part of the process, the chocolate liquor is pressed under high
pressure. This removes the cocoa butter from the cocoa solids. The pressed solids
can then be ground into cocoa powder. In some manufacturing processes, all
chocolate liquor is pressed to remove the cocoa butter. The cocoa butter and
cocoa solids are recombined during the manufacturing process.
Conching
The chocolate is now ready for further refining in a conche. While in the conche,
the chocolate is ground into smaller particles by large stone rollers or mixing
blades that stir the chocolate. Conching changes the flavor and viscosity of the
chocolate. At the beginning of the process the chocolate has a doughlike
consistency but by the end, the chocolate resembles a thick fluid. The size of the
solid particles is reduced with every pass through the conche, which helps to coat
the solid particle in cocoa butter, while at the same time improving the mouthfeel of
the final product by reducing the size. The conche continually agitates the
chocolate as a result of the friction from mixing temperatures can range from 120°F
(49°C) for milk chocolate to 180°F (82°C) for dark chocolate.
During this process the chocolate undergoes three phases. In the first phase, the
mix is dry and the agitation of the conche coats the dry particles in fat. Through the
mixing process, air is incorporated, removing unwanted acids developed during the
fermentation process and any remaining water that may have been present in the
cocoa beans after roasting. The second phase increases the speed of the conche,
and coating of the solid particles in fat continues. In the third phase, additional
cocoa butter and lecithin are added to adjust the viscosity of the chocolate. The
speed of the machine is reduced and the chocolate begins to cool.
Tempering
Once conching is complete, the chocolate is tempered. Tempering is the process

of heating and cooling chocolate to develop the proper cocoa butter crystallization.
Tempering gives the chocolate its characteristic snap and sheen. Pages 375–379
will provide more detailed information about tempering. After the chocolate is
tempered and cooled completely, it is packaged and ready for shipping.
Chocolate Percentages
In the United States, the FDA regulates the classifications of chocolate. The
following table provides the minimum percentages of chocolate liquor and milk
solids required to label a product as chocolate. If a manufacturer uses the
minimum percentages, the remaining quantity would be sugar. Using the dark
chocolate with 35% chocolate liquor as an example, the remaining 65% would be
sugar. This would result in a very sweet product.
While chocolates can range from inexpensive to costly for a good quality, there is a
higher quality product called couverture. Couverture comes from the French word
couvrir meaning “to cover.” Couvertures are made with the highest-quality beans
and are conched for longer periods of time, decreasing the particle size even
further. They also contain more cocoa butter, 36% to 39%, creating a more fluid
product that is ideal for producing a thin coating on chocolates.
FDA Minimum Requirements for Chocolate
Type Minimum Chocolate Liquor Minimum Milk Solids
Dark, Semisweet 35% N/A
Milk 10% 12%
White 20% (cocoa butter only) 14%
Manufacturers identify their products with a name and a percentage on the label.
There is much confusion as to what this percentage actually represents. For this
example we will look at a 58% semisweet couverture. This percentage represents
the amount of cocoa in the couverture. Additional information on the label may
include the amount of cocoa butter, which in this case is 38% cocoa butter.
Chocolate liquor is made of cocoa butter and cocoa solids, so to determine the
amount of cocoa solids, perform the following:
Cocoa% – Cocoa butter% = Cocoa solids%
58% – 38% = 20%
The amount of sugar in the recipe is calculated by subtracting the 58% from 100%:
100% – Cocoa% = Sugar%
100% – 58% = 42%
We can determine that there is 42% sugar, and a minimal percentage of lecithin
and vanilla flavoring. Once all the numbers are calculated, it will give a better idea
of the sweetness of the chocolate. As the percentage of chocolate liquor increases,
the percentage of sugar decreases.
The chocolate liquor percentage contains both cocoa solids and cocoa butter.
These ingredients are blended and adjusted based on the different chocolates. A
chocolate that is formulated for coating will have more cocoa butter to produce a
chocolate with a lower viscosity. Increasing the amount of cocoa solids will
intensify the flavor of the chocolate, as well as increase the viscosity.
The example in Figure 12.4 demonstrates cocoa percentages. All the cylinders
contain 42% sugar. The first cylinder has chocolate that is made from only ground
cocoa beans with sugar added. A cocoa bean is 55% cocoa butter and 45% cocoa
solids. The second cylinder is made from adding cocoa butter to the chocolate
liquor, resulting in a couverture that is ideal for coating. Moving on to the third
cylinder, there are more cocoa solids; consequently, this chocolate will have a
strong flavor and be thicker than the first two. As you can see, these are
completely different products that can all be labeled as a 58% chocolate.
FIGURE 12.4 Chocolate liquor percentage comparison of 58% chocolate

There is another variable at work as well. The percentage and manufacturer's label
provide insight into what the chocolate is suited for. The other variable that needs
to be examined is the origin of the bean and type of bean. A 58% chocolate with
the same percentage of cocoa butter and cocoa solids made by different
manufacturers will taste completely different. One may have a fruity flavor while the
other may have a strong chocolate flavor. The blend of beans and manufacturing
process will change the flavor of the final chocolate. It is important to remember
which chocolate is used when developing recipes and note this on the recipe. This
will ensure the consistency of the final products. There are all-purpose chocolates
that can be used to flavor mousses or enrobe candies. It is not necessary to have
15 different chocolates in the pastry shop.
Tempering Chocolate
Cocoa butter is what gives chocolate its shine and characteristic snap when eaten.
It is a polymorphic fat, meaning that the fat can form many different crystals.
There are six different crystals the cocoa butter can form: four are unstable and
two are stable. Unstable crystals produce chocolate that blooms, has a crumbly
texture, and melts easily when handled. Fat bloom occurs when improperly
tempered cocoa butter begins to crystallize, producing white streaks in the
chocolate. Stable crystals produce a chocolate with sheen, snap, and strong
contraction when molding.
Cocoa Butter Crystal Characteristics
Crystal Melting Characteristic

Point
Unstable I 63°F (17° Soft, crumbly, melts too easily

C)
II 70°F (21° Soft, crumbly, melts too easily

C)
III 79°F (26° Firm, poor snap, melts too easily

C)
IV 82°F (28° Firm, good snap, melts too easily

C)
Stable V 93°F (34° Glossy, firm, best snap, melts near body
C) temperature 98.6°F (37°C)
VI 97°F (36° Hard, takes weeks to form

C)
Through the process of tempering, the pastry chef cools and stirs the chocolate,
encouraging the growth of stable cocoa butter crystals. Tempering consists of the
three components: time, temperature, and agitation. When properly tempered,
cocoa butter crystallization occurs quickly. In its stable forms the tempered cocoa
butter attracts the remaining crystals to quickly form solid tempered chocolate.
Chocolate that is not tempered properly takes too long to crystallize. This causes
the chocolate to become streaky and develop a white haze as the cocoa butter
forms the unstable crystals.
Temperature is critical. Stable crystals form when the chocolate is cooled to below
82°F (27.7°C). This can be achieved through tabling or seeding—both will be
discussed in detail in the following section. If the chocolate were left alone on a
table and allowed to cool, stable crystals would have formed. But still there would
not be enough: This is when agitation comes into play. The stirring of the chocolate
causes the highly attractive stable crystals to attract more crystals. This creates a
reaction of more stabile crystals forming quickly, which causes the chocolate to set
faster. Too much agitation can cause the chocolate to over crystallize.
When working with chocolate for a long period of time, it may thicken even when
held at the proper temperature. Adding additional melted chocolate to the
tempered chocolate, or melting and tempering again can correct this.
FIGURE 12.5 Properly tempered dark chocolate (left); improperly tempered

bloomed chocolate (right)
Improperly stored chocolate can also develop sugar bloom, which occurs when
moisture is absorbed by the chocolate. High humidity forms condensation on the
exterior of the chocolate and pulls the sugar to the surface. As the water
evaporates, the sugar crystallizes leaving a white haze on the surface. Storing
chocolate in the refrigerator or freezer will cause sugar bloom. It is best to store
chocolate tightly wrapped at 70°F (21°C) to reduce the chances of sugar bloom.
FIGURE 12.6 Improper cocoa butter crystallization (left); properly aligned

cocoa butter crystals (right)
Tempering Methods
There are two methods of tempering: tabling and seeding. The chocolate in the
tabling method is spread on a marble surface and cooled to the desired
temperature. The seeding method adds chopped chocolate into the melted
chocolate to decrease the temperature. Both achieve the same results so the
decision of which method to use is based on personal preference.
Melting
Regardless of which method is used, the work area and all equipment must be
clean and dry. The smallest amount of water can cause the chocolate to seize.
Seizing occurs when water is absorbed by sugar in the chocolate. This creates a
syrup that then traps the cocoa solids. Once there is water in the chocolate, it
cannot be removed.
There are three ways to melt chocolate: in a chocolate melter, over a double boiler,
or in a microwave. It is best to melt the chocolate slowly, overnight in a chocolate
melter. To fully melt all the cocoa butter crystals, a temperature of 115°F (45°C) for
12 hours is necessary and will ensure a better temper. When using a double boiler,
the heat source should be on a low setting to prevent burning and steam from
getting into the chocolate. A double boiler is an excellent conductor of heat and can
easily burn the chocolate. The steam produced from excessive heat will travel up
and over the sides of the bowl and then get trapped in the chocolate. A microwave
is an excellent way to melt smaller quantities of chocolate. Reduce the power to
50% and melt for no longer than 15 to 20 seconds. The microwave heats from the
inside out, so the chocolate must be removed and stirred. Not stirring the chocolate
may cause the center to overheat and burn.
Once the chocolate is fully melted, the tempering process can be started. In order
for the chocolate to properly crystalize, it must be cooled using the tabling or
seeding methods. A portion of the chocolate is then cooled to 80 to 82°F (27 to 28°
C), and rewarmed to the proper working temperature depending on the chocolate
being used. The following table shows temperature ranges for dark, milk, and white
chocolate.
Tabling Method
Equipment needed: Offset pallet knife, 5-in. metal scraper, thermometer, heat gun,
marble, and rubber spatula:
1. Pour two-thirds of the melted chocolate on the marble.
2. Using the offset pallet knife spread the chocolate.
3. Push the chocolate back toward the center, make sure to work the chocolate
back into one mound and clean off tools by scraping against each other when
working. Chocolate left on the marble or tools can harden and create lumps in
the tempered chocolate.
FIGURE 12.7 Tempering curve

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the chocolate appears thickened.
5. Scrape the chocolate from the marble back into the bowl.
6. Quickly stir the chocolate and check the temperature.
7. If the temperature is too high, return some of the chocolate to the marble and
repeat steps 2 through 6, until the correct temperature is reached.
8. If the temperature is below the chocolate's working temperature, use a heat gun
on low and warm the chocolate.
9. Use a small piece of parchment paper to test the temper of the chocolate. The
test strip should set within two minutes. The chocolate should set without
showing any signs of streaking.
10. If this does not produce a clean test, check the temperature again. If the
temperature is correct, vigorously stir the chocolate for 30 seconds and test
again.
1. Pouring chocolate on marble
2. Spreading chocolate with pallet knife
3. Using scraper to work chocolate into center
4. Checking temperature
FIGURE 12.8a–d
Seeding Method
Equipment needed: Rubber spatula, thermometer, and immersion blender:

1. Prepare seeding chocolate by chopping in a food processor. It will take about
25% of the weight of the chocolate to be tempered in seed. If you are tempering
4 lb, you will need 1 lb of seed. Note: Seeding chocolate must be tempered.
2. Add seed to the melted chocolate until the temperature reaches 95°F (35°C).
There should still be seed that has not melted. This indicates that stable cocoa
butter crystals are present that will seed the melted chocolate.
3. Use an immersion blender to remove any small pieces of unmelted seed. Be
sure to keep the immersion blender completely submerged in the chocolate to
avoid incorporating any air. If the chocolate is too cool when using the
immersion blender the chocolate will over crystallize quickly and become very
thick. This will make it difficult to work with.
4. Using a small piece of parchment paper or metal scraper, test the temper of the
chocolate. The test strip should set within two minutes. The chocolate should
set without showing any signs of streaking.
5. If this does not produce a clean test, check the temperature again. If the
temperature is correct, vigorously stir the chocolate for 30 seconds and test
again.
Chocolates
The term chocolates is often used to refer to various chocolate products such as
bonbons and truffles. Bonbon, translated from French to English, means “good
good” and can refer to any candy that is coated in chocolate. Bonbons can be filled
with a wide assortment of fillings, including ganache, marshmallow, buttercream,
fruit creams, caramels, and nougat. They can be flavored with fruits, nuts, or
liqueurs. Truffles are often hand-rolled and are filled with cream ganache or butter
ganache.
When making chocolates, the formula can have as few as three ingredients:
whipping cream, chocolate, and flavoring. The ingredients are the “stars” of these
items. High-quality ingredients combined with proper technique will ensure the
smoothness and flavor of the chocolates come through.
Ingredients
Chocolate
Chocolate is the main ingredient in ganache. It is not only used to flavor—it
provides the texture and the firmness of the ganache. The use of couverture for
ganache is recommended, due to the flavor and higher content of cocoa butter.
Chocolates used in the production of ganache are selected based on the flavor
profile and cocoa percentage. The flavor of the couverture should complement the
other flavors used in assembling the ganache. Formulas are balanced based on
these two factors. If a change in chocolate is necessary, adjustments may need to
made to the liquids in the recipe.
Cream
The cream used for ganache should be 35% Whipping Cream. Cream is the
primary source of water in the ganache. The water functions as a buffer in the
ganache, dispersing the fat. This prevents the ganache from breaking. Fat found in
the cream helps to soften the texture of the ganache. Higher-fat creams will not
only produce a softer ganache—the increased fat can make the ganache unstable
and more susceptible to breaking.
Sweeteners
Sweeteners give the ganache more than sweetness. They can prevent
crystallization, soften ganache, and caramelize. The smooth texture of the ganache
is also improved with the use of sweeteners.
Sweeteners
Type of Sweetener Origin Function
Granulated Sugar Sugar beets or sugar Most common sweetener used

cane Flavor and color when
caramelized
Glucose Corn, potato, or wheat Retains moisture

Prevents crystallization
Invert Sugar Sugar heated with an Prevents crystallization

acid Smoother ganache
Sorbitol (Sugar Apples, pears, and Emulsifier

Alcohol) berries Sugar replacer
Butter
Butter is used in ganache to stabilize the emulsion. Incorporating butter into the
ganache will soften the fat of the cocoa butter and reduce the melting temperature.
Recipes that include purée, liquor, or other water-based flavorings employ butter to
replace the fat for these ingredients. When adding a water-based flavoring to a
ganache, incorporate half the weight of the flavoring in butter.
Butter as a product is an emulsion. Butter becomes soft at room temperature and
when heated it separates. When using butter in a ganache, it is critical that the
butter does not become overheated. To avoid overheating, the butter is added after
the other ingredients have been combined and cooled.
Ganache
Ganache was discussed briefly in Chapter 6 to be used for a base in chocolate
mousse. The production of ganache for chocolates is more involved, with different
ratios and numbers of ingredients. There are two types of ganache used as fillings:
cream and butter. Either of these can be used in molded, enrobed, slabbed, and
piped productions.
Cream Ganache
Cream ganache is a fat-in-water emulsion that contains whipping cream,
chocolate, and flavorings, with a shelf life of 3 weeks. This is the ganache most
often used to fill bonbons in the United States.
Cream Ganache Method
1. Place chocolate in a food processor and grind to small pieces. Be careful to not
process too long to avoid melting the chocolate.
2. Place whipping cream in a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat to just below a
boil. Boiling the cream will reduce the water in the cream.
3. Pour the hot cream over the chopped chocolate and allow it to sit for 1 to 2
minutes. This melts the chocolate while the cream cools. The ideal temperature
for mixing is 90 to 110°F (32 to 44°C).
4. Begin stirring the mixture in the center to create the emulsion. Once the center
has come together, start to widen the stirring motion to the edges of the bowl.
Stirring the mixture too quickly will incorporate air into the ganache; stir slowly
to avoid this. Air bubbles facilitate the growth of bacteria.
5. Allow the ganache to cool to 92°F (33°C); add the softened butter and mix
slowly to incorporate.
6. Use an immersion blender to finish the ganache. Place the blade of the
immersion blender at the bottom of the container to avoid incorporating any air.
Move the blender in the ganache to mix easily. This can also be done in a
measuring pitcher to reduce incorporating air.
1. The beginning of the emulsion
2. The properly emulsified ganache

FIGURE 12.9a–b
Butter Ganache
Butter ganache is a water-in-fat emulsion that contains butter and chocolate and is
typically flavored with liquor. Compared to cream ganache, the butter ganache will
crystallize and firm faster, allowing dipping within 30 minutes of being prepared.
The final texture will be firmer and have a longer shelf life of 6 to 8 weeks.
Butter Ganache Method
1. Temper chocolate and rewarm to make sure it is at the maximum working

temperature. Dark chocolate 90°F (32°C), white, and milk 88°F (31°C).
2. In another bowl, use a rubber spatula to mix the softened butter at 86°F (30°C).
3. Fold in the tempered chocolate; the temperature of the ingredients makes it
easy to fold them together before the chocolate sets.
4. Add the liquor and stir to combine.
5. Mix ganache with an immersion blender.
Molded Ganache
Molds allow the pastry chef to create bonbons with unique shapes, colors, and
fillings. Color can be added in the form of sprayed colored cocoa butters, edible
luster dusts or a brush of white chocolate on a dark-shelled bonbon. The process
for applying color is described in Chapter 13, page 417. Molded bonbons are easily
produced in large quantities as long as molds are available. The shell provides a
way to retain softer fillings such as Pistchio Cinnamon Ganache (page 388) or
softer-setting ganache.
Polycarbonate chocolate molds are available from a wide variety of suppliers.
While molded chocolates are easy to mass produce, there is a high cost
associated with the molds. Taking care of these molds is important to their
longevity. Washing should not be needed if the molds are used properly. If washing
is necessary, use hot soapy water and a clean soft cloth. Never use abrasive
scrubbing pads or paper towel—this will cause scratches in the mold, reducing the
shine of the final chocolates. Molds that have been used retain a small amount of
cocoa butter in them and they are seasoned much like a cast iron skillet is with fat;
washing removes this coating. After washing and between uses, the molds should
be buffed with cotton or cheesecloth.
FIGURE 12.10 Assorted molded bonbons
Molding Method
Equipment needed: Offset pallet knife, 8-in. metal scraper, parchment paper, ladle,
plastic acetate sheet, rolling pin:
1. Fill the mold with tempered chocolate. Use an offset pallet knife to spread the
chocolate, be sure to fill all the molds.
2. Use the metal scraper to remove excess chocolate.
3. Tap the side of the mold with the plastic handle of the scraper; this will remove
any bubbles from the mold.
4. Turn the mold; pour out the extra chocolate. Tap the mold with the plastic
handle of the scraper.
5. With the scraper, remove any excess chocolate.
Filling bonbon mold with chocolate (step 1)
Emptying the chocolate from the mold (step 4)
Scraping the bottom of the mold (step 6)
Filling the mold (step 8)
Sealing the mold and rolling with rolling pin (step 11)
FIGURE 12.11a–e Bonbon filling procedure:
6. Place a piece of parchment paper on a flat work surface and place the mold
upside down, allowing the excess chocolate in the mold to drain out. Before the
chocolate sets, remove the mold from the paper. Scrape again if necessary.
7. While the chocolate is crystallizing in the mold, prepare the filling.

8. When the ganache has cooled to 86°F (30°C), fill the molds using a disposable
pastry bag. Do not fill the mold to the top; leave a gap of ⅛ in. (3 mm) for
capping.
9. Allow the ganache to crystallize at room temperature. This may take up to 24
hours.
10. Spread a thin layer of tempered chocolate over the molds, making sure all
remaining space is filled. Scrape off excess chocolate.
11. Place a sheet of parchment paper or acetate sheet on the mold and smooth
with rolling pin or bench scraper.
12. Allow the chocolate to crystallize completely. If necessary, place the molds in
the refrigerator for 15 minutes to release the chocolate from the mold.
Enrobed Ganache
Coating a bonbon filling in couverture is known as enrobing. The fillings for
enrobed bonbons need to be firmer to stand up to the dipping process. In this
process, the ganache (or other filling) is made prior to dipping—in some cases, as
much as 24 hours earlier. This gives the ganache sufficient time to crystallize.
Crystallization of the ganache is necessary before dipping. Ganache may be
shaped by using the slabbed, piped, or hand-rolled techniques.
Slab Ganache
Slab ganache is poured out into a metal frame and spread to ensure an even
thickness. The ganache is then allowed to crystallize. The length of time it takes
the ganache to crystallize is dependent on the temperature of the room. In a
warmer room it will take longer; a cooler room will speed up crystallization. Placing
the ganache in the cooler or freezer is not recommended. While this may make the
ganache firm faster, it will quickly soften when returned to room temperature.
On the second day, spread a thin base coat of tempered chocolate on the
ganache. The purpose of the base coat is to allow the ganache to easily be moved
and dipped. When hand dipping, the thin layer of chocolate prevents the dipping
fork from becoming stuck in the soft ganache. After the base layer has crystallized,
the ganache is ready to be portioned. Smaller production facilities will use a ruler
and knife to cut the ganache to the correct size. The final dipped weight of a
bonbon should be 0.5 oz (14 g). Larger production facilities will use a guitar. A
guitar is a machine that quickly portions slabs of ganache into equal sizes using
metal wire. After cutting, space the ganache apart letting the cut edges dry slightly
to ease handling.
Piped Ganache
Piping ganache enables the pastry chef to create different shapes without the need
of costly molds. When making the slabbed ganache, a base was added to prevent
the dipping fork from becoming stuck in the ganache. Piped ganache has the same
requirement. Tempered chocolate is spread in a thin layer on acetate and cut with
a round cutter or knife into the shape the ganache will be piped. Once the
chocolate base has crystallized fully, the prepared ganache is piped into the
desired shape and allowed to dry slightly before dipping.
FIGURE 12.12 Piping butter ganache on the disk center
Dipping Method for Enrobing Slabbed and Piped Fillings

The cut or piped ganache is ready to dip after it has had some time to crystallize.
Crystallizing allows the ganache to maintain its shape while being handled.
Couverture should always be used for enrobing. This will ensure a thin shell:
1. Set up a dipping station. Working left to right, place the undipped center to the
left. Place the bowl of tempered couverture in the center, and on the right, place
a silpat-lined sheet pan for the finished bonbon. If left-handed, place the
undipped centers on the right and the finished product on the left.
Placing ganache in tempered chocolate (step 2)
Coating the ganache in chocolate (step 3)
Tapping to remove excess chocolate (step 4)
Cleaning the bottom of the chocolate on the bowl (step 5)
Placing onto a silpat (step 6)

FIGURE 12.13a–e Hand-dipping procedure:
2. Place ganache in the tempered couverture.
3. Place the dipping fork under the ganache. Leave ¼ of the ganache off the fork;
coat the ganache completely in couverture. This will make it easier to slide the
dipped piece off the fork and prevent it from falling off.
4. Using an up-and-down motion, lift the ganache out of the couverture. This up-
and-down tapping motion helps to remove excess chocolate. With each tap, the
dipped center should be removed slightly higher. This should be done 3 to 4
times per piece.
5. Slide the fork along the rim of the bowl to remove excess couverture. This
excess couverture will begin to coat the edge of the bowl, and it makes it
difficult to keep lumps out of the couverture. To prevent this, attach a thin wire
at the top of the bowl to clean the bottom of the chocolates. The small surface
area of the wire will prevent excess chocolate from building up.
6. Transfer the dipped bonbon to the silpat-lined tray. Touch the front of the
bonbon on the tray and carefully slide the fork out.
7. Continue this process until all the pieces are dipped, being careful to monitor
the temperature of the couverture while dipping.
Hand-Rolled Ganache
Hand-rolled ganache can be done in one of two ways. In the first method, the
ganache is placed in a hotel pan overnight. When the ganache has crystallized,
use a scoop to portion the ganache and roll it by hand into spheres. In the second
method, the ganache is piped and then rolled. Both of these methods require the
ganache to be crystallized before portioning. Hand-rolled ganache does not require

a base before enrobing.
Enrobing Hand-Rolled Filling Method

Hand-rolling is a fast and easy way to enrobe ganache. Often, hand-rolled ganache
is referred to as a truffle. The look of the chocolate truffle is similar to that of the
black truffles used in savory applications:
1. Set up a dipping station. Working left to right, place the undipped center to the
left. Place the bowl of tempered couverture in the center, and on the right, place
a silpat-lined sheet pan for the finished bonbon. If left handed, place the
undipped centers on the right and the finished product on the left.
2. Wear gloves. Using two fingers on your right hand spread a small amount of
chocolate in the center of your left hand.
3. Take one of the rolled centers and place it in your left hand. Carefully roll the
ganache in the chocolate. Maintain the shape and be sure to coat the entire
piece. This will serve as a base coat.
4. After the base coat has crystallized, apply another layer of chocolate. This layer
can be slightly thicker than the first.
5. Once the pieces are coated, the truffle can be rolled in cocoa powder,
powdered sugar, toasted chopped nuts or chocolate shavings. This must be
done immediately after rolling in chocolate to make sure the coating sticks.
Chocolate Recipes
Pistachio Cinnamon Ganache
Yield: 2 lb 12 oz (1270 g)
Portions: 90 pieces
Yield description: 90 pieces at 0.3 oz (8.5 g)
Ground Cinnamon 0.14 oz 4g
White Chocolate 1 lb 7.6 oz 670 g
Butter, room temperature 5.3 oz 150 g
Procedure
1. Combine ground cinnamon and pistachio paste.
2. Place white chocolate in a bowl over a double boiler and melt halfway.
3. Bring heavy cream and Trimoline to a boil.

4. Pour cream mixture over white chocolate; emulsify.
5. Add pistachio mixture to ganache.
6. Cool to 86°F (30°C).
7. Add butter and emulsify with immersion blender.
8. Fill bonbon mold premolded in tempered white chocolate.
9. Allow ganache to crystallize for 12 hours.
10. Seal the molds with tempered white chocolate.
Passion Fruit Bonbon

Portions: 50 pieces
Passion Fruit Purée 6 oz 170 g
Glucose 0.9 oz 25 g
Butter 2.5 oz 70 g
Cointreau 1.1 oz 30 g
Procedure
1. Line bonbon mold with tempered white chocolate.
2. Combine purée, glucose and butter, bring to a boil.
3. Pour over white chocolate to form a ganache.
4. Cool mixture to 95°F (35 C).
5. Add Cointreau and emulsify with immersion blender.
6. When mixture has cooled to 82°F (28 C), pipe into molds.
7. Allow passion fruit ganache to crystallize for 12 hours.
8. Seal the molds with tempered white chocolate.
Orange Coriander Bonbon

Portions: 65 pieces
Coriander Praline 8.8 oz 250 g
Coriander Praline Crunch 12 oz 350 g
Orange Caramel Ganache 1 lb 7 oz 666 g
Procedure
1. Line bonbon mold with tempered milk chocolate.
2. Prepare coriander praline.
3. Prepare coriander praline crunch.
4. Prepare orange caramel ganache, fill mold two-thirds full with ganache.
5. Top with coriander praline crunch.
6. Allow coriander praline crunch to crystallize for 12 hours.
7. Seal the molds with tempered milk chocolate.
Orange Caramel Ganache

Yield description: 65 portions 0.3 oz (10 g)
Sugar 3.5 oz 100 g
Glucose 0.9 oz 25 g
Orange Zest 0.04 oz 1g
Milk Chocolate, finely chopped 6.3 oz 180 g
Cocoa Butter, finely chopped 1.8 oz 50 g
Butter 1.8 oz 50 g
Grand Marnier 1.8 oz 50 g
Sorbitol Liquid 1.1 oz 30 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and glucose, cook to a light caramel.
2. Deglaze with orange juice; add purée and sorbitol.
3. Pour over milk chocolate and cocoa butter, emulsify with immersion blender.
4. Add butter and Grand Marnier.
5. Reserve for assembly at 77°F (25°C).
Coriander Praline
Portions: 2.4 portions
Yield description: 2.4 portions at 8.8 oz (250 g)
Water 1.2 oz 35 g
Sugar 6 oz 170 g
Glucose 2.3 oz 70 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Whole Coriander 0.3 oz 9g
Hazelnuts, toasted 11.8 oz 335 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and glucose in a pan and caramelize.
2. Remove from heat and add coriander.
3. Place hazelnuts on a silpat-lined pan and pour caramel over nuts.
4. After cooling completely, mix in food processor to a smooth paste.
5. Reserve for coriander praline crunch; store any additional product in the
refrigerator.
Coriander Praline Crunch

Coriander Praline, page 390 8.8 oz 250 g

Feuilletine 0.9 oz 25 g
Procedure
1. Melt milk chocolate and cocoa butter; combine with coriander praline base.
2. Fold in feuilletine.
Peanut Butter Banana Bonbon

Yield: 2 lb 12 oz (1280 g)
Portions: 90 pieces
Peanut Butter Ganache 1 lb 6 oz 640 g
Banana Ganache 1 lb 6 oz 640 g
Procedure
1. Line bonbon mold with tempered dark chocolate.
2. Fill halfway with peanut butter ganache.
3. Fill the shell with banana ganache.
4. Allow banana ganache to crystallize for 12 hours.
5. Seal the molds with tempered dark chocolate.
Peanut Butter Ganache

Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Glucose 1.8 oz 50 g
Water 1.4 oz 40 g
Procedure
1. Combine water, sugar, and glucose in a pan and bring to a light caramel.
2. Pour caramel onto a silpat. Cool completely and grind in a food processor.
3. Add finely ground caramel mixture to cream and warm to dissolve.
4. Cool caramel to 95°F (35°C).
5. Add peanut butter and softened butter; emulsify with immersion blender.
Banana Ganache
Dark Rum 0.4 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Place white chocolate on a double boiler and melt 25%.
2. Bring cream to a boil.
3. Pour over chocolate and form a ganache.
4. Cool ganache to 95°F (35°C).
5. Add butter, Trimoline, banana purée, and rum.
Yogurt Berry Bonbon

Portions: 70 pieces

Berry Compote 10.4 oz 295 g
Yogurt Ganache 1 lb 9 oz 735 g
Procedure
1. Line bonbon mold with tempered milk chocolate.
2. Pipe berry compote.
3. Fill mold with yogurt ganache.
4. Allow yogurt ganache to crystallize for 12 hours.
5. Seal the molds with tempered milk chocolate.
Berry Compote
Black Currant Purée 3.5 oz 100 g
Dried Blueberries 1.8 oz 50 g
Sugar 4.6 oz 130 g
Pectin NH 0.2 oz 6g
Water 2.8 oz 80 g
Procedure
1. Combine pectin NH with 30 grams of sugar.
2. Combine remaining sugar, water, purées, and dried blueberries, and warm.
3. When purée mixture reaches 125°F (50°C), add pectin/sugar mixture.
4. Boil this mixture for 2 minutes, stir constantly.
5. Pour onto a silpat on a marble table to cool completely.
6. Purée mixture using an immersion blender.
Yogurt Ganache
Butter 1.4 oz 40 g
Lecithin 0.03 oz 0.75 g
White Chocolate (41%) 12.3 oz 350 g
Greek Yogurt 2% fat 3.5 oz 100 g
Yogurt Powder 0.5 oz 15 g
Citric Acid Solution 10 drops 10 drops
Note: Citric Acid Solution can be made using the formula for Tartaric Acid Solution on page
405, replace tartaric acid with citric acid.
Procedure
1. Combine cream, sorbitol, butter, and lecithin, and warm.
2. Combine white chocolate and cocoa butter, melt over a double boiler.
3. Emulsify white chocolate and cream mixture.
4. Add Greek yogurt, yogurt powder, and citric acid solution; emulsify.
5. Pipe into shells at 84°F (29°C).
Palet d'Or (piped)

Portions: 50 pieces
Dark Chocolate 68% 12.7 oz 360 g

Procedure
1. Combine cream and Trimoline in a saucepan, bring to a boil.
2. Pour over chocolate; combine to form a ganache.
3. Cool ganache to 95°F (35°C), add butter.
4. Mix with an immersion blender to emulsify.
5. Place plastic wrap directly on top of ganache and crystallize for 12 hours.
6. Pipe ganache onto a sheet of acetate with a 0.5-in. (1.3-cm) plain tip the size of
a quarter.
7. Place another sheet of acetate on top of piped ganache and flatten to 0.3 in. (8
mm) thick.
9. Remove acetate sheet and spray ganache with a cocoa butter spray (recipe
page 436).
10. Dip in tempered dark couverture.
FIGURE 12.14 Hand-dipped bonbons (left to right): Rocher, coffee and

lemon, Cognac kiss, Palet d'or.
Cognac Kiss (piped)


Feuilletine Base, page 396 50 each 50 each
Cognac Butter Ganache, page 397 1 lb 10 oz 740 g
Procedure
1. Attach feuilletine base to a piece of parchment paper with a dot of chocolate.
2. Prepare cognac butter ganache
3. Pipe cognac butter ganache using a 0.5-in. (1.3-cm) plain tip.
5. Dip in tempered milk chocolate.
Feuilletine Base
Portions: 50
Portion size: ¾-in. (20-mm) round
Yield description: 50 pieces at ¾-in. (20-mm) round
Praline Paste, page 397 4.4 oz 125 g
Feuilletine 8.8 oz 250 g
Procedure
1. Combine cocoa butter and milk chocolate; melt over a bain marie.
2. Add melted chocolate mixture to praline paste.
3. Fold in feuilletine.
4. Spread mixture onto parchment paper and roll to ⅛ in. (3 mm) thick.
5. Allow the feuilletine mixture to set; cut with a ¾-in. (20-mm) round cutter.
Cognac Butter Ganache

Butter 5.6 oz 160 g
Cognac 3.3 oz 80 g
Milk Chocolate 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Procedure
1. Soften butter in a mixer with a paddle attachment.
2. Melt and temper milk chocolate, add to butter.
3. Fold in cognac.
Rocher (hand rolled)

Portions: 140 pieces
Portion size: 1 Rocher
Yield description: 140 Rochers
Praline Paste 1 lb 4 oz 575 g
Caramelized Hazelnut 4.5 oz 129 g
Craquelin 14 oz 400 g
Procedure
1. Pipe praline paste onto acetate sheets approximately 0.7 in. (18 mm).
2. Place caramelized hazelnut in the praline paste.
3. Allow praline paste to set.
4. Roll the praline paste in your hand to cover the hazelnut.
5. Hand roll once in melted milk chocolate and immediately roll in craquelin.
6. Allow the milk chocolate to fully crystallize overnight.
7. Dip the Rocher in tempered milk chocolate.
Praline Paste
Portions: 1 portion
Hazelnuts 8.8 oz 250 g
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Water 2.2 oz 63 g
Note: Purchased praline paste can be used in place of this recipe.
Procedure
1. Combine water and sugar; caramelize to a dark brown.
2. Pour over hazelnuts; cool completely.
3. Grind hazelnuts and caramel to a paste in a food processor.
4. Add melted cocoa butter.
Caramelized Hazelnut
Yield: 4.5 oz (129 g)
Portions: 140 (approximate)
Portion size: 1 hazelnut
Yield description: 140 hazelnuts (approximate)
Hazelnuts, peeled, whole, toasted 3.5 oz 100 g
Sugar 0.9 oz 25 g
Water 0.7 oz 20 g
Cocoa Butter 0.14 oz 4g
Procedure
1. Warm nuts to 200°F (93°C).
2. Combine sugar and water; cook to thread stage, 230°F (110°C).
3. Take pan off the stove and stir in nuts; continue stirring to crystallize the sugar.
4. Pour the crystallized nuts onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and allow to cool.
5. Sift off excess sugar and return to a clean pan.
6. Constantly stir nuts over a medium high heat. The sugar will begin to dissolve
and caramelize.
7. Once a light amber color has been reached, remove the pan from the stove and
stir in the cocoa butter.
8. Pour nuts onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and cool completely.

9. Reserve in an airtight container for assembly.
Craquelin
Portions: 1
Almonds, chopped, lightly toasted 7.1 oz 200 g
Sugar 7.1 oz 200 g
Water 1.8 oz 50 g
Procedure
1. Warm nuts to 200°F (93°C).
2. Combine sugar and water; cook to thread stage, 230°F (110°C).
3. Take pan off the stove and stir in nuts. Continue stirring to crystallizes the
sugar.
4. Pour the crystallized nuts onto a silpat-lined sheet pan and allow to cool.
5. Sift off excess sugar.
Coffee and Lemon (slab)

Portions: 69 pieces
Portion size: 1-in. (25-mm) square
Yield description: 69 portions at 1-in. (25-mm) square
Lemon Ganache, page 399 1 lb 12 oz 794 g
Coffee Nougatine, page 399 8 oz 225 g
Procedure
1. Attach the coffee nougatine to the bottom of the lemon ganache squares using
melted chocolate.
2. Hand dip in dark chocolate.
Lemon Ganache
Glucose 0.7 oz 20 g
Lemon Zest 0.1 oz 4g
Butter 0.4 oz 10 g
Procedure
1. Melt milk and dark chocolate half way over a double boiler.
2. Bring heavy cream, glucose and sorbitol to a simmer.
3. Emulsify chocolate and cream mixture.
4. Add lemon zest, juice, and soft butter; emulsify.
5. Pour ganache into 8 × 9.5 in. (20 × 24 cm) frame with 0.5-in. (13-mm) thick
metal bars.
7. Cut into 1-in. (25-mm) squares.
Coffee Nougatine
Portions: 69
Portion size: 1-in. (25-mm) square
Yield description: 69 portions at 1-in. (25-mm) square
Water 0.4 oz 10 g
Honey 1.4 oz 40 g

Sugar 5.6 oz 160 g
Salt 0.04 oz 1g
Yellow Pectin 0.1 oz 3g
Butter 1.4 oz 40 g
Hazelnuts, roasted, finely chopped 4.9 oz 140 g
Arabica Coffee, finely ground 0.1 oz 4g
Procedure
1. Combine pectin, sugar, and salt in a bowl.
2. Place water, sugar, honey, and glucose in a saucepan; add dry ingredients.
3. Caramelize the mixture.
4. Add hazelnuts, coffee, and butter to caramel.
5. Place nougatine between two sheets of parchment paper and roll thin. If
mixture becomes too cool to roll, place in a 350°F (175°C) oven for 2 to 3
minutes to warm.
6. Cut into 1-in. (25-mm) squares and allow to cool.
Troubleshooting for Chocolates
Chocolate blooms 1. Not enough tempered chocolate was added during

when temperature is the seeding of the chocolate. Add additional seed
correct. to chocolate.
2. The chocolate was not stirred enough during the
tempering process. Stir chocolate more.
3. The chocolate was not tested. Test before use.
Molded chocolate will 1. The chocolate was not tempered correctly.

not release. Temper chocolate properly.
2. Shell is too thin; recast with a slightly thicker shell.
3. The chocolate was properly tempered but not
allowed enough time in the mold. Allow chocolate
to fully crystallize.
Ganache has a grainy 1. Ganache was stirred when it was cool. Stir
texture. ganache less.
Troubleshooting for Chocolates
2. The recipe was not scaled accurately or too much
water was removed during the cooking process.
Add more liquid to emulsify.
Butter ganache loses The ganache is not crystallized. Allow mixture to

shape when piped. crystallize longer before piping.
Confections
Confections are defined by the presence of sweeteners—most often in the form of
sugar. They can be broken down into four main categories: crystalline,
noncrystalline, aerated, and jellies. Hard candies, caramels, fudge, pâte de fruit,
and marshmallows are all forms of confections. What sets these categories apart is
the role the sweetener plays in the recipe. Sweeteners will always contribute to
flavor; applications in confections may create a smooth, creamy caramel or a
fudge.
Crystalline
Crystalline confections are identified by the presence of crystallized sugar in the
final product. The ingredients used in the formula create a system that controls the
size of the crystals. Fudge, fondant, and liquor bonbons are all examples of
crystalline confections. Fondant is made through a process of cooking sugar,
water, and glucose to a specific temperature, then cooling. Once the fondant has
cooled, it is worked on a marble table, and the agitation creates many small
crystals that make the fondant opaque.
Sugar is the main ingredient in crystalline confections. Applying heat to a sugar
solution allows more sugar to dissolve in the solution. As the sugar solution cools,
it now contains more sugar than could have previously been dissolved. This is now
a supersaturated solution. In this solution, there is not much buffering for the
sugar molecules. If the mixture is agitated or stirred, the sugar will begin to
recrystallize back out of the solution. This is a desired effect for some crystalline
confections. However, not controlling this crystallization is a problem. Ingredients
like glucose and inverted sugar help to create smaller crystals that will maintain the
creamy texture of the confections. Another factor in controlling crystallization is
cooking the ingredients to the proper temperature.
Noncrystalline
Noncrystalline confections have sugar present in an amorphous form. This
means the sugar is lacking form—it is dissolved in the confection and is free of
crystals. The sugar provides noncrystalline confections with sweetness and
hardness of the final product. A formula for brittle may contain sugar, glucose,
water, butter, and nuts, and have a hard candy type consistency. Caramels will
have the same ingredients with the addition of dairy. The dairy products contribute
color and flavor to the candies while giving them a softer consistency.
Aerated
Aerated confections require the incorporation of air into a cooked sugar syrup.
There are three ways the air can be incorporated: mechanical, chemical, or
pressure. Mechanical is achieved through the use of a mixer and chemical is done
through the use of baking soda. Mechanically aerated confections require a
whipping agent and stabilizer. The whipping agent comes in the form of egg whites
stabilized by gelatin. These two methods are used for smaller batch production;
pressure aeration is reserved for large manufacturers. Marshmallows and nougat
are included in aerated confections.
Jellies
Jellies are confections that contain a high percentage of sugar and are set with
agar, pectin (yellow or apple pectin), or gelatin. More information about the
hydrocolloids used to set jellies can be found in Chapter 4. The high percentage of
sugar in products like gummy bears, jellybeans, pâte de fruit, and gumdrops
contributes to their long shelf life.
As the name implies, many of these products have a sticky exterior until a final
coating of oil or granulated sugar is applied. An inexpensive way to create different
shapes from the jellies is to use a cornstarch mold. The following method will
explain how to use cornstarch as a mold for gummies, pâte de fruit, and liquor
bonbons (crystalline confection).
Cornstarch Mold Method

1. Dry cornstarch in a low temperature oven 100°F (38°C).
2. Sift starch into a wooden framed starch box; level of the top of the starch using
a metal bar pulled along top of the frame.
3. Press the molds into the cornstarch and carefully lift straight up.
Note: Plaster of Paris works best for casting molds. A positive mold will need to
be made by casting plaster of Paris into a well-oiled chocolate or silicone mold.
Make several castings of the mold and glue the cured plaster onto a wooden
stick, leaving space between the molds.
4. Return the cornstarch to the oven to keep it warm and dry before filling.
5. Larger molds can be filled with a fondant funnel, while smaller molds can be
filled with a pipette. Deposit the liquid into the mold.
6. Sift additional cornstarch over the liquid. Allow the confections to remain in the
starch box overnight.
7. Carefully remove confections from starch and clean off excess cornstarch using
either a brush or compessed air.
1. Sifting the starch
2. Leveling the starch
3. Pressing the mold into the starch
4. Depositing the syrup
5. Sifting to cover the syrup

FIGURE 12.15a–e
Confection Recipes
Apricot Passion Pâte de Fruit
Apricot Purée 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g
Passion Fruit Purée 1 lb 8.7 oz 700 g

Yellow Pectin 1.1 oz 30 g
Sugar #1 5.3 oz 150 g
Sugar #2 3 lb 4.9 oz 1500 g
Tartaric Acid Solution, page 405 0.4 oz 12 g
Superfine Sugar As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Combine first sugar 5.3 oz (150 g) amount with pectin.
2. Combine second sugar 3 lb 4.9 oz (1500 g) and glucose.
3. Place purées in a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat to 104°F (40°C).
4. Add pectin/sugar mixture and bring to a boil.
5. From this point on the mixture must remain boiling.
6. Slowly add sugar/glucose mixture while whisking.
7. Once all this mixture is incorporated cook to 225°F (107°C), or 75°Brix.
8. Add the tartaric acid solution, immediately pour into molds or paper lined half
sheet pan.
9. Allow pâte de fruit to cool to room temperature overnight.
10. Unmold or cut into desired shapes and dredge in superfine sugar.
FIGURE 12.16 Banana, Raspberry, and Apricot Passion Pâte de Fruit
Banana Pâte de Fruit


Pear Purée 2 lb 3.3 oz 1000 g
Yellow Pectin 1.2 oz 35 g
Sugar #1 5.3 oz 150 g
Sugar #2 3 lb 4.9 oz 1500 g
Banana Purée 1 lb 13.7 oz 750 g
Procedure
3. Place pear purée in a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat to 104°F (40°C).
7. Once all this mixture is incorporated cook to 233°F (112°C).
8. Add the banana purée.
9. Continue cooking to 225°F (107°C) or 75°Brix, add lemon juice and tartaric acid
solution. Immediately pour onto paper lined half sheet pan or molds.
Raspberry Pâte de Fruit

Raspberry Purée 2 lb 3.3 oz 1000 g
Fresh Raspberries 14.1 oz 400 g
Pectin 1.1 oz 30 g
Sugar #1 5.3 oz 150 g
Sugar #2 3 lb 4.9 oz 1500 g
Procedure
3. Place raspberry purée and fresh raspberries in a heavy-bottom saucepan and
heat to 104°F (40°C).
7. Once all this mixture is incorporated, cook to 225°F (107°C) or 75°Brix.
8. Add the tartaric acid solution; immediately pour into molds or paper lined half
sheet pan.
Tartaric Acid Solution

Yield: 4.2 oz (120 g)
Portions: 1
Tartaric Acid 2.1 oz 60 g
Water, boiling 2.1 oz 60 g
Note: Tartaric acid solution easily crystallizes. Make sure all equipment and storage
containers are cleaned before use.
Procedure
1. Bring 8 oz (240 g) of water to a rolling boil.
2. Place tartaric acid in a bowl.
3. Scale boiling water directly into tartaric acid; stir gently to dissolve.
4. Cover container and allow to cool. Store at room temperature.
Marshmallow
Portions: 75
Yield description: 120 knots at 0.2 oz (5.6 g)
Water or purée #1 1.5 oz 42.5 g
Sugar #1 1.5 oz 42.5 g
Water or purée #2 7.5 oz 212.5 g
Sugar #2 4.5 oz 127.5 g
Sheet Gelatin, bloomed for 15 minutes 9 each 9 each
Powdered Sugar As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Combine water or purée #1 and sugar #1 in a mixer with a whip.
2. Heat water or purée #2 and sugar #2 to a boil.
3. Pour boiling mixture into stand mixer.
4. Add melted gelatin to mixture.
5. Whip until completely cool.
6. Pipe lines with a 0.4-in. (1-cm) plain tip onto powdered sugar dusted sheet
pans.
7. Dust the top of the marshmallow with additional powdered sugar.
8. Let marshmallow rest for 3 to 4 hours.
9. Cut into 2-in. (5-cm) pieces.
10. Tie into a knot and store in an airtight container at room temperature.
FIGURE 12.17 Clockwise from top: Coconut macadamia brittle, chocolate

nougat, marshmellow, toffee, nougat
Nougat
Portions: 60 pieces

Egg White Powder 0.2 oz 5g
Sugar 0.5 oz 15 g
Sugar 6.7 oz 190 g
Glucose 2.1 oz 60 g
Water 1.8 oz 50 g
Honey 4.1 oz 115 g
Whole Almonds 3.5 oz 100 g
Hazelnuts 1.2 oz 35 g
Sliced Almonds 1.2 oz 35 g
Dried Apricot, diced 1.9 oz 55 g
Dried Cranberries 2.6 oz 75 g
Procedure
1. Toast nuts.
2. Combine first sugar with egg white powder; add to egg whites in a mixer with
whip attachment.
3. Combine second sugar, glucose, water, and vanilla bean in a saucepan.
4. Cook honey to 222°F (106°C); turn mixer on high. Continue cooking to 248°F
(120°C).
5. Begin cooking sugar mixture; add cooked honey to whipped egg whites.
6. Cook sugar mixture to 323°F (162°C) and add to egg white mixture.
7. Allow to mix for 3 to 5 minutes; add melted cocoa butter.
8. Warm fruit and nut mixture to 248°F (120°C).
9. Fold nut mixture into meringue.
10. Roll the nougat between two pieces of parchment paper into a 7 × 9 in. (18 × 23
cm) frame with 0.5-in. (13-mm) thick metal bars.
11. Allow nougat to cool to room temperature, cut into 1-in. (2.5-cm) squares.
Chocolate Nougat
Portions: 70 pieces
Sugar 1 13.4 oz 380 g
Water 3.4 oz 95 g
Honey 8.1 oz 230 g
Sugar 2 0.7 oz 20 g
Unsweetened Chocolate 100% 4.4 oz 125 g
Whole Almonds 2.6 oz 75 g
Hazelnuts 2.6 oz 75g
Procedure
1. Combine first sugar, water and vanilla bean, bring to a boil.
2. Begin whipping egg whites with second sugar.
3. Bring honey to a boil cook to 248°F (120°C) and add to whipped egg whites.
4. When sugar reaches 323°F (162°C), add to egg white mixture.
5. After incorporating sugar, paddle the mixture to cool.
6. Add the melted chocolate.
7. Warm fruit and nut mixture to 248°F (120°C).
8. Fold in nuts.
9. Roll the nougat between two pieces of parchment paper into an 8 × 9.5 in. (20 ×
24 cm) frame with 0.5-in. (13-mm) thick metal bars.
10. Allow nougat to cool to room temperature, cut into 1-in. (2.5-cm) squares.
Toffee
Portions: 45 pieces
Butter 8.8 oz 250 g
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Glucose 1.1 oz 30 g
Salt 0.07 oz 2g
Vanilla Extract 0.3 oz 8g
Chocolate 64%, tempered As needed As needed
Sea Salt As needed As needed
Procedure
1. Combine butter, glucose, salt, and sugar in a heavy-bottom saucepan and heat.
2. Stir with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, while bringing to a boil.
3. Cook to a temperature of 295°F (146°C).
4. Remove from heat and add vanilla extract. If mixture is broken, stir to emulsify.
5. Deposit toffee into 1.4-in. (3.5-cm) molds and cool completely.
6. Dip toffee in tempered chocolate and sprinkle with sea salt.
Coconut Macadamia Brittle

Portions: 50 pieces
Water 4.1 oz 115 g
Glucose 6 oz 170 g
Sugar 8.5 oz 240 g
Butter 0.4 oz 10 g
Dessicated Coconut, lightly toasted 2.6 oz 75 g
Macadamia Nuts, toasted and chopped 2.6 oz 75 g
Vanilla Paste 0.2 oz 5g

Baking Soda 0.1 oz 3g
Procedure
1. Combine the water, glucose, sugar, butter, and salt in heavy-bottom saucepan.
Bring to a boil.
2. Cook this mixture without stirring to 240°F (115°C).
3. Add coconut and macadamia nuts; stir constantly.
4. Continue cooking to 290°F (143°C).
5. Remove from heat and add baking soda and vanilla paste.
6. Pour the brittle onto a silpat-lined sheet pan. Use an offset pallet knife to spread
the mixture.
7. Once the brittle starts to set, use your hands to pull it thinner.
8. Cool completely and break into pieces. Store in an airtight container at room
temperature.
Liquor Bonbon
Portions: 40 pieces
Yield description: 40 pieces at 0.3 oz (8.5 g)
Sugar 8.8 oz 250 g
Water 3 oz 85 g
Liquor (min 40% alcohol) 3.5 oz 100 g
Procedure
1. Warm cornstarch to 110°F (43°C) in an oven.
2. Prepare a cornstarch mold (page 402).
3. Cook water and sugar to 243°F (117°C).
4. Remove from heat; add liquor and cover for 5 minutes.
5. Gently transfer syrup between two bowls to mix the syrup, a minimum of three
times.
6. Deposit syrup into warm cornstarch mold.
7. Sift additional cornstarch on top of the mold to cover the syrup.
8. Return the cornstarch mold to warm oven to maintain a temperature of 110°F
(43°C).
9. After 6 hours, carefully turn the liquor bonbons over to create an even
crystallization.
10. Place the tray back in the oven overnight.
11. Remove the liquor bonbon from the cornstarch and brush off any excess
cornstarch.
12. Dip in tempered chocolate.
Key Terms
Winnowing
Conching
Couverture
Polymorphic
Fat bloom
Sugar bloom
Tabling method
Seeding method
Seizing
Bonbons
Truffles
Cream ganache
Butter ganache
Enrobing
Slab ganache
Guitar
Crystalline confections
Supersaturated
Noncrystalline confections
Aerated confections
Jellies

1. What are the qualities of properly tempered chocolate?
2. Describe the differences between milk, white, and dark chocolate.
3. What does cocoa percentage represent?
4. What happens when chocolate is overcrystallized?
5. What is the difference between crystalline and noncrystalline confections?
Chocolate Work Page 1 of 54
CHAPTER 13
Chocolate Work
Art is defined as the expression of human creative skill and imagination, typically in
visual form. Pastry chefs create art every day that transcends vision, creating
something that appeals to the sense of smell, taste, and feel. Chocolate work
allows the pastry chef to demonstrate their ability to create works of art from a
premium product usually reserved for consumption.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Assemble a chocolate showpiece.
2. Demonstrate how to build a variety of chocolate flowers.
3. Prepare a variety of chocolate garnishes.
4. Explain how to design a showpiece.
Introduction to Chocolate Work

Chocolate provides an excellent medium for creating garnishes and showpieces.
Chocolate garnishes are delicately used on cakes, tarts, desserts and petits fours
to add an attractive visual element to the dessert. The garnish can add color,
movement, and height to pastries. Many of these garnish elements can be
incorporated into a chocolate showpiece for a room service amenity or a larger
buffet decoration.
Chocolate as a Medium for Sculptures and Garnishes

Chocolate can be easily molded, sculpted, and shaped to create a wide variety of
components from solid support structures to delicate flower petals. A sculpture can
be created using basic kitchen equipment, hand tools, and some equipment from
the local hardware store. The one challenge associated with chocolate is that it is
dark and solid, which leads to a heavy showpiece. Because chocolate is a strong
medium, structural pieces tend to be overbuilt. This not only increases the cost of
the piece, but adds to the weight of the piece. Reducing the weight of the structure
will add to the visual appeal of the piece while reducing the overall weight, making
transportation easier, and reduce cost.
Chocolate Selection
The pastry chef uses garnishes and showpieces to demonstrate skill and mastery
of chocolate. Chocolate garnishes are strictly used as decoration: they provide
color, texture through the snap of the chocolate, and the flavor of the chocolate.
There is no set rule as to which chocolate should be used for a garnish. The flavor
of chocolate goes with almost every other flavor, it is acceptable to use chocolate
as a garnish even if there is not chocolate it the dessert. However, if there is
chocolate in the dessert the garnish can be used as a way to reflect this. A pastry
that has white chocolate mousse should use a white chocolate garnish, additional
color can be added with the use of edible luster dusts and cocoa butter colors.
A showpiece requires additional thought in selecting the correct chocolate. Milk
and white chocolate contain milk products and a higher percentage of sugar
compared to dark chocolate. These additional ingredients reduce the amount of
cocoa butter in the chocolate. Cocoa butter provides the strength and structure to
hold the showpiece up. Milk chocolate is rarely used in the production of chocolate
sculptures. Dark chocolate is the primary chocolate used for chocolate sculptures,
while white chocolate is used as an accent due to its decreased strength.
If dark chocolate is the best chocolate to build a showpiece with and cocoa butter
makes the piece stronger, then a high cocoa percentage chocolate is the best
chocolate, right? Wrong. Just as different cocoa percentage chocolates have
different flavor profiles, they also have different characteristics when building a
showpiece.
A 55% to 58% couverture can be used to assemble a strong showpiece. The
amount of sugar in the chocolate makes it easy to temper, and, at the same time,
the amount of cocoa butter makes it strong. This chocolate will be slightly thicker
than the next example. The ease of tempering is a benefit for using a semisweet
chocolate. The other benefit is the length of working time when tempered.
Chocolate with a high percentage of cocoa butter can easily become
overcrystallized. This will cause the chocolate to become very thick, reduce the
ability to flow, and make it difficult to work with.
Using a bittersweet couverture, 60% to 64% cocoa solids, will give a better flow for
molding. This chocolate will require more attention while tempering. The additional
cocoa butter present will create a stronger structure. There is a drawback
associated with higher cocoa percentage chocolates. It can easily become
overcrystallized when working with the chocolate. This occurs after several hours
of working with the tempered chocolate. Melting the chocolate and repeating the
tempering process can reverse the overcrystallized cocoa butter and return it to a
fluid state.
Garnishes
Garnishes can be used for sculptures or as a decorative element for pastries.
These pieces are edible and added for decorative purposes and can be made
using white, milk, or dark chocolate.
Chocolate Cigarette
Equipment needed: Offset pallet knife, straight blade slicing knife, and metal
scraper:
1. Spread a thin layer of tempered chocolate onto a piece of marble. It is important
that the chocolate be spread as evenly as possible. Thinner areas will set too
quickly and will also be too soft to come off the knife.
2. Using the metal scraper, clean the edges of the spread chocolate. The width of
the chocolate should be 4 to 6 in. (10 to 15 cm).
3. Allow the chocolate to set; rub your hand over the chocolate to rewarm slightly.
4. Place the knife on the chocolate, starting ½ in. (1.5 cm) in from the end of the
chocolate on the right side.
5. Push down and away toward the right. The chocolate will roll off in the shape of
a cigarette.
Variation: To make two-colored cigarettes, spread dark chocolate first then scrape
with a metal comb. After the chocolate has set to the point it will not smear, spread
a layer of tempered white chocolate over the top.
FIGURE 13.1 Chocolate spread on marble with a portion already made into
cigarettes on the left and the remainder of the strip in the process
Chocolate Plaquettes
Equipment needed: Offset pallet knife, airbrush, skewer, paring knife, round
cutters, two flat cutting boards, parchment paper, plastic acetate sheet:
1. Wipe the cutting board with a wet towel. Place the acetate on the cutting board,
using your hand to remove any large bubbles that may have formed under the
acetate. Then, using a clean dry towel, wipe the acetate to remove any water
that might have gotten on top. The water left underneath the acetate will be
enough to hold it in place.
2. Spray the acetate with a darker cocoa butter color (green).
3. Use a clean rubber eraser or artist’s blending tool to draw circles in the cocoa
butter.
4. Spray a lighter cocoa butter color (yellow) next and allow the cocoa butter to
crystallize.
5. Spread a thin, even layer of tempered chocolate over the cocoa butter.
6. When the chocolate sets, cut out desired shapes using the back of a paring
knife or round cutters. This prevents cutting through the acetate.
7. Place a sheet of parchment paper on top of the chocolate, followed by the other
cutting board. Chocolate will contract as it crystallizes; the weight placed on top
will keep the decorations flat.
8. Let the chocolate crystallize overnight before removing the actetate.
Variations: 1. In place of the cocoa butter, use white, milk, and dark chocolate. 2.
Use a paintbrush to splatter cocoa butter on the acetate. 3. A sponge can be used
to apply colors. 4. Textured plastic sheets can also be used to create a different
effect.
Colored Chocolate Spheres

Equipment needed: Polycarbonate sphere mold, offset pallet knife, metal scraper,
half sheet of parchment paper, colored cocoa butters:
1. Wearing gloves, smear a thin layer of colored cocoa butter in the mold with your
finger.
2. Fill the molds with tempered chocolate.
3. Scrape off any excess chocolate and tap the mold with the plastic handle of the
scraper to remove any bubbles.
4. Let the filled mold sit for 1 to 2 minutes.
1. Applying swirls on first color of acetate (step 3)
2. Spreading chocolate (step 5)
3. Cutting chocolate (step 6)
4. Finished assorted colored decors (step 8)

FIGURE 13.2a–d
5. Turn the mold over and tap with the plastic handle of the scraper, removing the
extra chocolate.
6. Place the mold on a sheet of parchment paper and allow the chocolate to drip
down to form a lip. This will make it easier to seal the two halves together.
7. Before removing from the paper, be sure that the chocolate has crystallized
enough that the lip remains with the mold.
8. Scrape the mold again, removing any excess chocolate. This will ensure the
chocolate will be able to contract properly during crystallization.
9. Leave the chocolate in the mold overnight and release the following day; this
will ensure a good shine. If needed sooner, the mold can be placed in the
refrigerator for 10 to 15 minutes to release the chocolate.
10. Remove the sphere halves from the mold.
11. Using a warm, flat surface, approximately 100°F (38°C), melt the edge of both
pieces of the chocolate.
12. Press the halves together and place the sphere back in the mold, allow the
seam to set fully before moving.
Variations: 1. Use an airbrush to spray the cocoa butter colors in the mold. 2. Use
a brush to add the cocoa butter color by brushing or splashing in color.
1. Applying the color into the mold (step 1)
2. Showing the lip inside the mold after scraping (step 7)
3. Melting the halves and placing them in the mold to set (step 11)
4. Finished piece with spheres

FIGURE 13.3a–d
Colored Chocolate Triangles

Equipment needed: Acetate plastic sheet, half sheet of parchment paper, paring
knife, offset pallet knife, paintbrush, piece of tape:
1. Drizzle colored cocoa butter onto the sheet of acetate. Immediately brush the
cocoa butter across the acetate. The cocoa butter needs to be 88°F (31°C). It
does not need to be tempered; the process of brushing will temper the cocoa
butter.
2. After the cocoa butter has crystallized, spread a thin layer of tempered
chocolate.
3. As the chocolate crystallizes, it will become firm enough to cut cleanly and still
remaining pliable. This can be checked by touching the chocolate with your
finger—it should not stick to your finger.
4. Using the back side of the paring knife (this avoids cutting the acetate), cut the
chocolate into triangles, approximately 1 × 4 in. (2.5 × 10 cm).
Brushing on the cocoa butter (step 1)
Cutting the chocolate (step 4)
Wrapping the curls (step 5)
An example of chocolate curls with modeling chocolate roses.

FIGURE 13.4a–d
5. Place the piece of parchment paper on top of the chocolate and roll diagonally.
Place a small piece of tape to secure the roll.
6. Allow the chocolate to crystallize overnight. This will ensure the triangles will
have an excellent shine. Unroll tubes as needed to protect them.
Variations: 1. After drizzling the cocoa butter color spread with an offset pallet
knife. 2. In place of the colored cocoa butter, use white or milk chocolate.
Chocolate Curls
Equipment needed: 2.5 × 12 in. (6.5 × 30 cm) acetate strip, offset pallet knife,
plastic comb, half plastic tube, paper cornet:
1. Place the acetate strip on the table. To adhere the strip to the table, use a wet
towel and place the acetate on top. Wipe with a clean dry towel to remove any
water. This will prevent the acetate from moving.
2. Spread a thin layer of chocolate onto the acetate strip.
3. Pull the plastic comb down the length of the strip.
4. Pipe small dots of chocolate between the lines to hold the twist together.
5. Twist the acetate and place in the half plastic tube and let the chocolate
crystallize.
6. Carefully remove the acetate from the curl.
Variations: 1. Brush acetate with colored cocoa butter. 2. Do not pipe the dots
between the lines. The curls can be used individually.
FIGURE 13.5 Garnish from entremets
1. Piping chocolate on the vermicelli (step 2)
2. The finished decorations

FIGURE 13.6a–b
Piped Decors
Equipment needed: Piping bag, half sheet pan, chocolate vermicelli:
1. Spread the chocolate vermicelli on the half sheet pan.
2. Pipe the chocolate directly onto the vermicelli. Piping can be in circles or lines.
3. Allow the chocolate to crystallize before removing the decoration.
Sculpture Design
Chocolate sculptures offer the pastry chef a way to demonstrate their creativity and
knowledge of chocolate. The size of these pieces can vary from a small room
service amenity to a large piece meant for display on a buffet. Regardless of size
there are three parts to constructing a sculpture: structure, color, and theme.
When setting out to start creating showpieces, planning is the most important step.
Everyone creates art differently; you may be inspired by a drawing or searching for
images online. Once your ideas are collected, draw the piece to scale. This does
not have to be a perfect drawing. It is a starting point from which templates will be
made to start assembling the sculpture. The next step in the process is to
assemble the sculpture from cardboard templates. Any design changes are easy to
make. At this point, your idea goes from paper to three dimensions. A great deal
about the piece can be learned from these additional steps that should make
building the piece from chocolate faster.
Structure Design
Base
As with any other form of construction the base is the foundation of the piece. The
base can easily be overlooked when creating the sculpture. It not only provides a
sturdy foundation to build on, but also stabilizes the piece. Small and large pieces
constructed with a weak base will be more likely to fail. In the case of larger pieces,
the weight of the base makes transporting the piece easier. The base is not just a
block of chocolate, it can be molded and sculpted to reinforce the theme of the
piece.
Include the base in the sketch of the piece so that there is a point of reference for
the height of the base. The base should be no more than 30 percent of the total
structure. As part of the construction of the base include a small chocolate pedestal
or feet. This piece should be just slightly smaller then the size of the base; if it is
too small the piece may not be stable enough. From a design standpoint, this
pedestal lifts the piece off the display table and gives the sculpture a lighter feel. It
also provides a way to easily lift the piece when transporting.
Structure
The structure of the piece provides the height and strength of the piece. When
designing a sculpture this is the first step. It is important to design a structure that
is strong to hold the theme elements. The most common shaped structures are J,
C, E, and S. These shapes provide a flow to the design of the sculpture—straight
lines are also used to create structures.
It is important to consider the shape of the structure and how it impacts the overall
design of the piece. The structure should catch the eye of the viewer and help their
eye to move through the piece. The movement should come from the top and
bottom of the piece towards the middle, ultimately directing them back to the focal
point.
FIGURE 13.7 Drawing of J, S, C, E and straight lines
Focal Point
In addition to supporting the sculpture the structure is also used to guide the
viewer’s eye to the focal point. The focal point is the point of interest on the piece
that makes the sculpture unique. Most often, the focal point is a flower or pastries
presented on the piece. The focal point should be located 50% to 60% of the
height from the base of the sculpture. This is a guideline for sculptures placed on a
buffet table with a height of 30 in. (76 cm). This is a guideline for large sculptures;
smaller amenity pieces do not have to follow this guideline and an attractive design
can be created.
It is important to consider the height of the table and placement of the table
(against a wall or in the middle of the room, etc.) when designing a piece. The table
height and position will impact how the decorative elements are positioned.
Decorative elements and focal point should be placed in a way that they are easily
viewed.
Optimal Viewing Position

For example, a flower placed on a sculpture should be positioned in a way that the
center of the flower is facing the viewer. This is known as the optimal viewing
position (OVP). Some refer to this simply as the front of the piece. When
considering the OVP, most of the elements on the piece should be visible from this
position. Not all elements need to be in clear view from the front of the piece. At the
same time the piece should not have a “back” that is void of any decoration.
Elements from the front of the piece should catch the eye and draw the observer to
inspect what is on the other side the piece. A perfectly designed piece should be
just as interesting on the back as it is from the OVP.
Incorporating Design in the Structure

While the primary purpose of the structure is to hold the piece up, it can also help
to carry the theme through the piece. A curved piece at the top of an S-curved
structure could be made to look like a bow with arrows flowing around it. A straight
vertical line can add to the piece by taking on the appearance of a steel beam. The
possibilities are endless. Keep an open mind when practicing assembling the piece
as it will evolve and change with every assembly.
Theme
When thinking about how to design a sculpture for a buffet, consider the theme of
the buffet. Holidays such as Christmas, Valentine’s Day, Thanksgiving, Easter, and
New Year’s Eve all have easily recognizable themes. What makes the showpiece
unique is how the themes are incorporated.
Consider New Year’s Eve as a theme, what ideas come to mind? A clock,
champagne flutes, horns, hats, and noisemakers immediately come to mind. A visit
to the library or museum, as well as searching online, may provide additional ideas.
Using any three of these elements should be enough to convey the theme of the
holiday buffet.
To build the New Year’s Eve themed sculpture we will use the decorative elements
of the clock, champagne bottle, and confetti. It is now time to decide on the
structure of the piece. It is best to decide on decorative elements and the purpose
of the piece before selecting the structure. This piece will be a strictly decorative
piece on the buffet. Selecting the S curve, E, or straight-line designs will work for
this piece. If the piece requires a cake or pastry to be displayed on the piece, the J
or C shape will work well. For this application, the S curve will be selected. The
piece can now be sketched using the decorative elements and structure (see
Figure 13.8).
FIGURE 13.8 Sketch of piece with decorative elements
Color
Creating color on a chocolate sculpture can be easily achieved with the use of
colored cocoa butter. The biggest challenge when working with chocolate is
creating a piece that is not bulky and heavy. Design, along with color, can be used
to create a chocolate sculpture that is light and flows. Color can be used to draw
attention to areas like the focal point while taking attention from larger structural
pieces.
An attractive showpiece can be built using the natural colors of white, milk, and
dark chocolate. This holds true with a piece using black and white colors. Cocoa
butter colors are available in a wide variety of colors, and they can also be blended
to create many additional colors. Primary colors, such as red, blue, and yellow, can
be used to create almost any other color. Mixing the primary colors together
creates secondary colors of orange, green, and purple. The color wheel in Figure
13.9 shows primary, secondary, and tertiary colors and their corresponding
complementary colors. The complementary colors are located directly across from
each other.
FIGURE 13.9 Color wheel with complementary colors
FIGURE 13.10 Finished piece made from chocolate

While colors are easily applied to the chocolate, it is good to leave some of the
chocolate of the piece showing. In some cases, this may be the only indication to
the observer that it is in fact chocolate.
Incorporating color into a showpiece can be done in several ways: through the use
of colored garnishes, by adding color to white chocolate, using a paintbrush or
airbursh, or adding edible luster dusts. When applying color to chocolate the color
of the chocolate will change the applied color. If red cocoa butter color is sprayed
on dark chocolate, it will have a deeper red color from the brown color behind it.
The same is true when adding color to white chocolate, the natural yellow from the
cocoa butter will combine with the color. For example, adding blue to white
chocolate will produce a green-blue color. Depending on the desired final color,
another spray or primer, may need to be applied. For the red spray to be a true red
on the dark chocolate, white must first be applied. Experimenting with different
color combinations will help to make the sculpture more unique.
The design of the piece continues by adding color to the sketch. A set of colored
pencils or markers can get the colors close to what the cocoa butter colors will
achieve. When adding color to the piece, refer back to the complimentary colors as
a starting point. For example, the face of the clock will be a tan color, the numbers
and arms black, the champagne bottle will have a green color, and the confetti will
be colored red and blue. More color can be added by the accent pieces that will
represent fireworks.
Assembly
After all the ideas have been put down on paper, it is time to get the templates
together. Chocolate is an excellent medium to work with because it does not
require much equipment to build an elaborate piece. The templates can be cut
from poster board or cake boxes; in fact, any piece of flat, sturdy cardboard will
work. Transfer the designs to the cardboard. At this point, the cardboard templates
can be taped together, giving a preview of what the final piece will look like.
Once the templates are assembled, any necessary changes can be made. The
following procedure explains the chocolate cutout method, how to cut out the
chocolate using templates.
Chocolate Cutout Method

Equipment needed: Paring knife, 2 each 0.25-in. (6-mm) metal bars, offset pallet
knife, cardboard template, parchment paper, newsprint:
1. Place the newsprint on a flat board, with the metal bars on the side. The metal
bars will ensure that the chocolate is even thickness, which is very important for
structural pieces. The chocolate will also crystallize at the same rate, making it
easier to cut.
2. Ladle tempered chocolate on the newsprint and spread it with an offset pallet
knife. Quickly drag a metal bar across the top of the 0.25-in. (6-mm) bars. This
will level out the chocolate.
3. Wait for the chocolate to crystallize. When the chocolate looks like it is setting,
test with your gloved finger. The chocolate should not stick. At this point, it is
ready to cut.
4. Place the template on top of the chocolate and cut with the paring knife. Do not
press down; the newsprint under the chocolate should not be cut. Make
additional relief cuts once the template is cut.
5. Place the parchment paper on top of the chocolate and flip the board over.
6. Remove the newsprint from the chocolate. The chocolate should remove
cleanly from the paper. You will notice the newsprint is greasy. This is caused
by the cocoa butter from the chocolate. If parchment paper were used in place
of newsprint, the parchment would have become wrinkled from the absorption
of the cocoa butter and this would have transferred to the chocolate.
7. Remove excess chocolate from around the cutout piece. Allow the structural
piece to crystallize fully before moving.
The cut pieces require several hours to crystallize fully. Moving the pieces
prematurely may cause the chocolate to bend slightly, forming small cracks that
may not be visible. Over time, these cracks will weaken the structure to the point
that it could break.
1. Spreading the chocolate between the bars (step 2)
2. Cutting the chocolate (step 4)
3. Removing the paper from the flipped cut out (step 6)

FIGURE 13.11a–c
Connecting Pieces
Although it is said that the chocolate is used to “glue” the pieces together, this is
not entirely true: The chocolate acts as more of a weld. When connecting pieces,
the goal is to get them to become one, not just two pieces with some chocolate
between them holding them together. To achieve this, the chocolate pieces are
warmed slightly at the connection point, a thin line of tempered chocolate is piped
at the connection point, and the pieces are placed together. Be careful how much
chocolate is piped to avoid overfilling. The extra chocolate will be pressed out of
the seam and leave an unsightly mess, or worse, drip onto another part of the
piece. Any extra chocolate can be cleaned using a gloved finger or a small pallet
knife. The seam needs to be as clean as possible, even if it is not in clear view on
the piece. Practicing making a clean seam is good for when the seam will be
visible.
To help set the seam quickly, cold spray can be used. Cold spray is compressed
air in a can that sprays cold air. This product can be helpful in assembling a piece
quickly. However, it is often abused and overused by the inexperienced. A quick
blast of cold spray can set the chocolate enough for the remainder of crystallization
to occur without the piece moving or falling. Overspraying can cool the chocolate
too rapidly and create a false set, as the piece warms back up the chocolate
returns to a liquid state and the piece falls off. Since the chocolate crystallizes
better without the use of cold spray, it is recommended to only use it when
absolutely necessary.
Connecting Pieces Method

Equipment needed: heat gun, paper cornet, paring knife:
1. Place the pieces being glued together and use the paring knife to mark a line
where the pieces line up.
2. Warm the connection areas with the heat gun. A slight warming will not take the
chocolate out of temper; instead, it will warm the chocolate to fuse the two
pieces together.
3. Pipe a small line of chocolate where the two pieces will meet.
4. Connect the pieces pressing firmly; hold until set.

5. Clean any excess chocolate that may have ran out.
6. Go back over the seams with the paper cornet and pipe a line of chocolate
along each side of the piece. Immediately clean the excess with a gloved finger.
1. Warming the pieces (step 2)
2. Piping the chocolate (step 3)
3. Cleaning the seam (step 5)

FIGURE 13.12a–c Attaching technique:
Component Inventory
When designing a showpiece, it is important to get the ideas down on paper. After
the sketch is completed, the design moves into the next phase. Utilizing different
techniques and components in the piece will help to create a more interesting
piece. If a chocolate sculpture is made from flat cutout pieces and sprayed, it would
still look good. However, incorporating different techniques like molded spheres,
flowers, and piped chocolate can give the piece more life. Creating a component
inventory of techniques will help make sure that nothing is overlooked during the
planning process.
Component Inventory for Chocolate Showpieces
Molded Cutouts Piped
Shiny Dull Sprayed flat
Sprayed velvet Carved Food processor rollouts
Brushed Hand painted Rocks
Chocolate pastillage Flower
When designing a sculpture, it is important to take into consideration what is truly

needed and what is not. The hardest skill to learn in designing a showpiece is
editing. Not every item on the component needs to be included in the design.
Techniques
Spraying with Cocoa Butter
When working with chocolate, whether it is molded pieces or cutouts, the piece will
need to be finished with a cocoa butter spray. It is inevitable that smudges or
fingerprints will get on the piece. While spraying will cover small marks, any large
dents or chips will become more pronounced after spraying. Cocoa spray provides
a way to cover up these small blemishes and at the same time give the structural
elements the same color.
Spraying a showpiece is not the same as the delicate work of airbrushing. The
sprayer is larger and more powerful. There are several models of spray guns
available from most hardware stores. The spray is propelled in one of two ways: an
electric sprayer uses a small piston to push the paint through a nozzle, while a
compressor forces air through a small opening to propel the chocolate.
Compressor-powered sprayers spray a more even coat than the electric version,
but they are considerably more expensive.
Always test the spray gun before spraying the piece to confirm the gun is operating
properly. Start with the gun off to the side of the piece and begin spraying. Slowly
move the gun over the piece and continue past. Continue spraying the piece in
passes, being careful to go past the piece when switching directions. If direction is
changed while the spray is directed at the piece it will become oversprayed in this
area. This will lead to drips and an uneven coating of color.
The spray guns operate at a high pressure. It is recommended to create a spraying
station with a large cardboard box or other material to reduce clean up time. After
spraying the piece, move the piece carefully—any contact will result in fingerprints
on the piece.
Velvet Spraying
Spraying can be used to achieve different textures in the piece. By placing the
chocolate in the freezer for 15 minutes and then spraying the piece, it will have a
velvet finish. As the cocoa butter spray comes in contact with the frozen chocolate
piece, it immediately sets. Then, as more spray is added, it continues to build up.
Be careful when handling velvet-sprayed chocolate. It is very delicate and easily
damaged.
FIGURE 13.13 A properly sprayed piece (left), oversprayed (center), and

velvet texture (right)
Modeling Chocolates
Modeling Chocolate
Molds help to speed up the production of chocolate sculptures. There are some
items that cannot be made with molds. A delicate chocolate rose is impossible to
make from chocolate and the shape cannot be replicated with a mold. The only
way to assemble a rose out of chocolate is to use modeling chocolate, a
combination of chocolate and sugar syrup that allows the chocolate to remain
flexible. Modeling chocolate can also be used to create leaves and figurines. After
sculpting, the modeling chocolate will dry and hold its shape. Larger pieces tend to
weep over time, but modeling chocolate will set as hard as chocolate. Modeling
chocolate is used mostly for decorative showpieces, and is not allowed in
competitions.
White or Milk Modeling Chocolate

For white modeling chocolate, use white or milk chocolate in place of the dark
chocolate and add 100 g of cocoa butter to the chocolate. During the tabling
process, the cocoa butter will separate out from the chocolate. This is normal.
Table the cocoa butter separately; once crystallization has begun, add it back to
the chocolate and continue tabling as with dark modeling chocolate.
Modeling Chocolate Rose Method

Equipment needed: Metal spoon, paring knife:
1. Knead the modeling chocolate back to a workable consistency and roll to ⅛ in.
(3 mm) thick.
2. Using a round cutter, cut 10 disks 1.5 in. (40 mm) and one solid sphere ¾ in.
(20 mm) in diameter.
3. Shape the sphere into a teardrop shape, slightly flatten the larger end so it will
stand without falling over.
4. Use the spoon to thin out the edge of the disks. Thinning the edges will give the
flower a more lifelike appearance. The petals can easily be removed from the
marble with a paring knife.
5. Wrap the first petal completely around the teardrop. Be sure to cover the entire
teardrop.
6. Place the middle of the second petal directly across from the seam of the first
petal, and slightly lower. The center of the flower should always be the highest
point.
7. The next layer will have three petals. These petals will be slightly lower than the
second petal. Place the left side of the petal against the rose bud and roll back
the right side with your finger. The next petal goes under the right side of the
previous petal. All three petals will interlock. When spaced evenly, the bud will
remain round. Flowers are always assembled with odd numbers of petals to
prevent the flower from becoming boxy and to provide a natural appearance.
8. The remaining five petals are shaped by pinching the bottom to create a small-
cupped petal. The top of the outer petals is pinched slightly in the center and
rolled back.
9. Attach the petals, making sure they are evenly spaced and slightly lower than
the previous layer.
10. Freeze the finished flower and spray with red cocoa butter color.
1. Flattening the petals with a spoon (step 4)
2. Cupping the outer petals (step 8)
3. Bud; bud with 2 wrapped petals; bud with 3 petals; bud with 5 petals
4. Finished rose piece with sprayed rose

FIGURE 13.14a–d
Food Processor Modeling Chocolate

Food processor modeling chocolate gives the chef a faster alternative to
traditional modeling chocolate. Using the food processor eliminates the need for
making the modeling chocolate and waiting for it to crystallize and then having to
dry it. Food processor modeling chocolate uses the friction of the food processor to
melt the cocoa butter to the point that it is malleable but still tempered. The
chocolate has the consistency of clay and is easily rolled into smooth shapes. It
cannot be used for creating the delicate petals of a rose because the chocolate
crystallizes too quickly. Instead, it is used for larger showpiece decorations like
rollouts and loops.
There are two methods to making food processor chocolate. Solid tempered
chocolate can be placed directly in the food processor. Chocolate pistoles from the
manufacturer work best, as they arrive tempered and are uniform in size. The
second method uses the formula below with cocoa powder and cocoa butter. Using
these methods has two advantages: There is minimal preparation time and the
chocolate crystallizes within 15 minutes of rolling.
White Food Processor Rollouts

To make white chocolate rollouts, replace the cocoa powder with potato starch.
Cocoa butter colors can be added to the white chocolate mixture in the food
processor.
Note: Due to the inclusion of potato starch, the white chocolate rollout recipe
cannot be used in competitions.
Food Processor Rollout Method

1. Place ingredients or chocolate in food processor.
2. Mix until the chocolate forms a paste.
3. Knead on a wood table to make sure the all the paste is slightly melted. It
should not stick to the table, if it sticks to the work surface the cocoa butter has
melted too much.
4. Roll the chocolate into a long rope. These can be even or tapered at one end. A
piece of cardboard can be used to smooth out and indentations left from
fingers.
5. Quickly form the chocolate, as it will begin setting within minutes.
1. The consistency of chocolate in food processor (step 2)
2. Rolling out the chocolate (step 4)
3. Finished piece with rollouts

FIGURE 13.15a–c Food processor rollout method:
Chocolate Pastillage
Chocolate pastillage is a relatively new medium used on chocolate showpieces. It
is similar to pastillage used on sugar sculptures, with the addition of cocoa powder.
The use of chocolate pastillage is restricted to display pieces, and not allowed in
competitions. There are many advantages to using chocolate pastillage on
chocolate sculpture. It can be rolled thinner than modeling chocolate and will dry
completely. It holds the shape it is formed in and is extremely light.
Chocolate pastillage can be shaped in the same way pastillage is shaped in
Chapter 14. Once the pieces have dried, they are attached to the showpiece using
tempered chocolate. Spraying the chocolate pastillage will give it a darker color,
and it will blend with the rest of the piece.
Chocolate Flowers
Flowers made from chocolate provide a way to add color and lighten up a
showpiece. Flowers, like a modeling chocolate rose, mimic a real flower, while
modern chocolate flowers can add volume to a showpiece with minimal weight.
Volume refers to the space the flower fills on the piece. Flowers are open with thin
petals; therefore, they minimize the amount of weight. Petals can be positioned to
create a swirling motion or placed straight and look more like an explosion.
There are four techniques used to create flower petals: chablon, dipped-knife,
cutout, or scraped. A chablon is a thin mat that chocolate is spread on. This
method creates petals of even thickness that are thinned on the edges. The knife-
dipped flowers use a paring knife, or any long object, dipped into chocolate then
placed on an acetate sheet. These petals can be left flat or curved. Cutout petals
are spread onto paper the same way pieces are cut out for structures, only the
chocolate is spread thinner, cut, and shaped. The scraped method uses round
cutters or scrapers to shape the chocolate directly off the marble table. All of these
methods offer interesting ways to create flowers, which can be small to as large as
12 in. (30 cm) across.
Chablon Method
A chablon is a thin mat of rubber or flexible material with shapes cut out. The
thickness of the chablon will depend on the size of the final flower—the bigger the
flower, the thicker the mat will need to be. For most flowers, a mat that is ⅛ in. (3
mm) thick is good.
Equipment needed: Newsprint, chablon, piping bag, metal scraper, mold for
shaping:
1. Place the chablon on a piece of newsprint.
2. Pipe a line of tempered chocolate on top of the chablon.
3. Drag the metal scraper across the top of the chablon. Do this only once.
4. Remove the chablon immediately after spreading.
5. Pick up diagonally opposite corner and tap the newsprint. This will smooth out
the chocolate.
6. Shape the chocolate petals and let them set in the mold.
7. Remove the petals from the newsprint and reserve for assembly.
Dipped-Knife Method
The dipped-knife method uses a paring knife, offset pallet knife, or painter’s knife
(available at craft stores) to make the petals. The knife is dragged through the
tempered chocolate and then placed on an acetate sheet and shaped. Flowers can
be with twisting petals or several rows of multiple petals.
Equipment needed: Acetate strips, paring knife, mold for shaping:
1. Wipe a wet towel along the edge the table. Place the acetate strip on the wet
table and smooth. Use a clean, dry towel to remove excess water.
2. Dip the knife into tempered chocolate the full length of the blade and drag
through the chocolate.
Dipping the knife in the chocolate (step 2)
Placing the knife on the acetate (step 3)
Unmolded petals (step 6)

FIGURE 13.16a–c
3. Place the chocolate-covered knife blade on the acetate sheet; do not press all
the way down to the plastic.
4. Lift the knife straight up and pull straight back. This will create a ridge on what
will be the inside of the petal, providing structural support.
5. Place the petals in the shaping mold and let the chocolate crystallize.
6. Remove the petals from the acetate and reserve for assembly.
Assembly of Chablon and Dipped-Knife Flowers

Chablon and dipped-knife flowers are assembled in the same way. They are
attached to a series of spheres that will hold the flower up, allowing for easy
placement on the showpiece. This assembly will require two 1-in. (2.5-cm) spheres
and two 2-in. (5-cm) half spheres solid cast. One of the half spheres will be used
for assembling the flower, the other is attached to the showpiece as a mounting
point for the finished flower.
Equipment needed: Cold spray, 8 in. (20 cm) cake board, paper cornet:
1. Build the center of the flower, start with one of the half sphere on the bottom
followed by the two 1-in. (2.5-cm) spheres. Place the seams of the spheres
vertically.
2. Once the spheres have crystallized fully, turn the assembly upside down and
dip in tempered chocolate, return to the cake board. This dipping solidifies the
spheres, reducing the possibility of breakage. It also creates a rough surface to
attach the petals.
3. Begin placing the petals on the center. Dip the end of the petal in tempered
chocolate and place on the bottom of the top sphere. Use a quick shot of cold
spray to attach the petal. Continue placing a total of five petals in the first row.
The first row of petals is strictly for positioning purposes. It is a common
mistake to begin placing the first row of petals too close together to fill in the
space between the petals. The remaining rows will be positioned between the
openings of the previous row.
4. The second row of five petals is placed in between the petals from the first row
and positioned so the tips of the petals are slightly lower. This will create an
open flower. A flower that is too open is associated with a flower that is past its
prime and beginning to die.
5. Continue using the same method for attaching the third row of petals.
6. Freeze and spray the flower with colored cocoa butter.
7. The remaining half sphere is used to attach the flower to the showpiece. Place
the half sphere with the flat side facing out.
8. Warm the flat portion of the sphere with a heat gun and pipe a small amount of
tempered chocolate.
9. Pick the flower up from under to petals and press into place, quickly with a shot
of cold spray to set the chocolate.
1. The stack of spheres, one dipped the other not (steps 1 and 2)
2. Placing the first petals (step 3)
3. Series of the flower showing the progress of each row

FIGURE 13.17a–c
Scraped Flower Method

The scraped flower method creates a flower that closely resembles a peony. The
ruffled curls of the petal set this flower apart from the rest. When making chocolate
cigarettes, the chocolate demonstrates a certain flexibility before setting. The same
procedure is used to create flower petals using the scraped method.
Equipment needed: Round cutter, offset pallet knife, paper cornet, 8-in. (20-cm)
cake board, parchment paper square 6 in. (15 cm):
1. Spread tempered chocolate on a marble table. Be sure the chocolate is spread
to an even thickness.
2. Once the chocolate is beginning to set, test with the round cutter. The chocolate
should peel off the marble and still be flexible.
3. To scrape the petals, hold the side of the cutter closest to you with both hands.
Pull the cutter toward you while pressing down firmly. Lifting the cutter up will
create a tight curl; holding the back end down will create a more open curl. A
tight curl is needed for the center; the remaining curls will need to be open.
Continue scraping the chocolate.
4. Let the curls crystallize before assembling the flower.
5. Place the parchment square on the cake board and pipe a dot of chocolate to
attach the flower center.
6. Begin building the flower around the center with small tighter curls, eventually
opening to the larger curls. Pipe chocolate on the paper to attach the petals.
7. Once the chocolate has crystallized, remove the flower from the paper before
spraying with colored cocoa butter.
Scraping the petals (step 2)
Showing the scraped petals
Beginning to assemble the flower (step 6)
The airbrushed finished flower

FIGURE 13.18a–d
Additional Chocolate Techniques
Chocolate Rocks
Creating texture on a showpiece that is primarily smooth adds visual appeal to the
piece. Chocolate Rocks, also referred to as chocolate concrete, adds color and
texture to the piece. The inclusion of sugar is acceptable for competition use, since
sugar is an ingredient in chocolate. To produce chocolate cement, the mixture is
cast into a mold and then scuffed to reveal the texture of the granulated sugar. For
rocks, the mixture is rolled to an even thickness. Once the mixture has crystallized,
it is broken into pieces and scuffed, bringing out the texture.
Chocolate Branches
Creating organic forms in chocolate pieces can be challenging. Organic forms are
those with a natural look or flowing or curving appearance. There are no
commercial molds available to shape chocolate into twists and curves. These
chocolate branches are easily made using equipment in every kitchen.
Gelatin Molds
A showpiece can be built without the use of molds. However, there is a place and
time for molds. Custom molds take time to order and there is a price associated
with them. A quick, temporary mold can be created using gelatin. These molds are
usually good for two moldings—then they will begin to lose shape. Gelatin molds
can used to cast three-dimensional molds of figurines or bottles. Castings can also
be made from shapes and placed inside molds to create a negative impression.
Gelatin molds provide the pastry chef a way to practice molding before moving on
to working with more expensive silicones.
When molding chocolate 1. The cocoa butter was not tempered when
spheres with colored cocoa applied to the mold. Temper the cocoa
butter, the color does not butter before spraying
release from the mold. 2. The chocolate was too cool to release the
cocoa butter. Use tempered chocolate
that is at the higher end of the tempered
range.
When making chocolate The chocolate has not set enough. Wait 30
cigarettes the chocolate sticks to seconds and try again.
scraper instead of rolling up.
Cocoa butter spray on a The chocolate spray was not tempered and
showpiece begins to bloom after has bloomed. Temper spray before applying.
several weeks.
When kneading modeling The cocoa butter was not fully emulsified in
chocolate there is a gritty the modeling chocolate.
texture. 1. Cool the chocolate before adding the
syrup.
2. Table the mixture longer to ensure
emulsification.
Modeling chocolate is soft. There is not enough cocoa butter in the

chocolate. Use a higher cocoa percentage
chocolate, or add some additional cocoa
butter.
When spraying velvet spray the 1. The chocolate was too cold when
spray comes off of the spraying. Take out of the freezer sooner.
chocolate. 2. The spray was applied too heavily, and it
flakes off. Spray less chocolate the next
time.
Chocolate pastillage is dry and Add a small amount of water to pull the
not coming together in the dough together.
mixer.
Chocolate pastillage is too 1. The liquid may have been too hot when
sticky. added, just warm to dissolve the gelatin.
2. The recipe was not scaled accurately.
Add additional potato starch to get proper
consistency.
Chocolate pastillage has small Gelatin was not bloomed and dissolved
lumps. properly.
Recipes
Cocoa Butter Spray
Portions: 1
Milk, White, or Dark Chocolate 7.1 oz 200 g
Procedure
1. Combine chocolate and cocoa butter, and melt.
2. Strain through a warmed chinois; this will prevent the sprayer from becoming
clogged.
3. Cool to 88°F (31°C), spray is ready to use.
Modeling Chocolate
Portions: 1
Dark Chocolate 63% 2 lb 3 oz 1000 g
Sugar 4.4 oz 125 g
Water 2.6 oz 75 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and water in a saucepan.

2. Melt chocolate and cool to 84°F (29°C). The cooler the chocolate is, the better
the emulsification between the syrup and chocolate.
3. Heat the sugar and water to simmer; be sure all sugar is dissolved. Add the
glucose syrup.
4. Combine the syrup with the melted chocolate and stir.
5. Pour the modeling chocolate onto a marble surface and table in the same
method as tempering. This cools the modeling paste quickly and promotes
crystallization.
6. After the modeling chocolate has been tabled and cooled sufficiently, wrap
tightly in plastic wrap.
7. Rest modeling chocolate for 2 hours at room temperature to fully crystallize.
Dark Food Processor Roll Outs
Portions: 1
Note: This formula produces a rollout that is stronger than the straight chocolate rollout
method.
Procedure
1. Combine cocoa powder and cocoa butter in a food processor.
2. Mix until the friction of the food processor melts the cocoa butter. At this point, it
will still be tempered.
3. Roll out to desired thickness and shape.
Chocolate Pastillage
Portions: 1
Powdered Sugar 1 lb 10 oz 735 g
Potato Starch 4.4 oz 125 g

Cold Water 4.2 oz 120 g
White Vinegar 0.5 oz 15 g
Additional Potato Starch for Dusting
Note: Chocolate pastillage is suitable for display pieces. It is not approved for use in most
competitions. Refer to the rules before using.
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in the cold water specified in the recipe.
2. Combine powdered sugar, potato starch, and cocoa powder and sift.
3. Combine the gelatin and water mixture with glucose syrup and vinegar in a
saucepan.
4. Warm gelatin mixture to dissolve gelatin, do not overheat.
5. Place dry ingredients in a mixer with paddle attachment.
6. While mixing on low, add wet ingredients to dry ingredients; mix until combined.
7. Remove the mixture from the bowl and knead on a table dusted with potato
starch.
8. Wrap pastillage tightly in plastic wrap, then in a damp towel and again in plastic
wrap to prevent drying.
9. Allow pastillage to rest overnight before using.
Chocolate Rocks
Portions: 1
Dark Chocolate 14.1 oz 400 g
Granulated Sugar 14.1 oz 400 g
Procedure
1. Combine melted dark chocolate and granulated sugar.
2. Cast into a mold or roll out between parchment paper to a uniform thickness;
allow to crystallize.
3. Unmold and use a small wood rasp to scuff the chocolate.
1. Spreading the chocolate mixture
2. Scuffing the chocolate to reveal the texture

FIGURE 13.19a–b
Chocolate Branches
Portions: 1
Cocoa Butter, melted 5.3 oz 150 g
Procedure
1. Create a mold for the branch using a cylinder; size will vary, depending on the
final size needed.
2. Place plastic wrap on the cylinder and secure with tape.
3. Combine cocoa powder and melted cocoa butter, and place in a pastry bag.
4. Pipe mixture over the plastic wrap in multiple passes.
5. Let the mixture crystallize for 2 hours at room temperature before moving.
Piping the mixture (step 4)
Finished branch
FIGURE 13.20a–b
Gelatin Mold
Yield: 2 lb 5.3 oz (1110 g)
Portions: 1
Sugar 7.4 oz 210 g
Glucose 1.8 oz 50 g
Note: If a firmer mold is needed, gelatin can be increased; to make the mold softer,
decrease the amount of gelatin. The gelatin mold can be melted down and reused.
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and gelatin.
2. Add glucose to water and whisk in gelatin.
3. Bloom for 10 to 15 minutes; cover with plastic wrap.
4. Heat gelatin in a double boiler until liquid.
5. Pour gelatin mixture into mold and refrigerate for 5 to 15 minutes. This will
depend on the size of the mold.
6. Unmold and allow gelatin to warm to room temperature before filling with
chocolate. Troubleshooting for Chocolate Work
1. Casting the gelatin
2. Removing the molded piece
3. Filling the gelatin mold with chocolate
4. Finished pieces made from gelatin mold

FIGURE 13.21a–d
Key Terms
Garnish
Structure
Focal point
Optimal viewing position (OVP)
Cutout method
Modeling chocolate
Food processor modeling chocolate
Chablon
Organic forms

1. What is the difference between optimal viewing position and focal point?
2. What is the function of a chocolate garnish?
3. When designing a showpiece, why is it important to assemble a scale model
from cardboard?
4. What is the role of the base of a showpiece?
5. What are the advantages and disadvantages of using chocolate to create a
showpiece?
Sugar Work Page 1 of 53
CHAPTER 14
Sugar Work
Dale Chihuly, the most celebrated glassmaker in the United States, was quoted
saying, “I’m an artist, a designer, a craftsman, interior designer, half architect.
There's no one name that fits me very well.” Sugar work closely resembles glass
work, and Chihuly's work can be referenced for innovative ideas in glass that have
been replicated in sugar. Pastry chefs are more than just chefs—they must be
chef, artist, designer, architect, innovator, student, and teacher all at the same
time.
LEARNING OBJECTIVES
1. Cook sugar for casting, pulling, and blowing.
2. Make crystallized sugar and bubble sugar.
3. Assemble a showpiece from pastillage.
4. Demonstrate how to make a sugar rose.
5. Assemble a sugar showpiece.
6. Demonstrate how to cast, pull, and blow sugar.
Introduction to Sugar Work

Artistic showpieces constructed from sugar bear a strong resemblance to a
sculpture made from glass. Warmed sugar can be cast into forms, blown with air,
or pulled and shaped by hand. Sugar work can be found on elaborate competition
showpieces, hotel lobby displays, or used as a garnish on pastries. A small garnish
on a plated dessert or a large showpiece, this fragile medium will capture the
attention of the guest and demonstrate the skill and artistry of the pastry chef.
Sugar as a Medium for Sculptures and Garnishes

Sugar work is used primarily for decorative showpieces, but it also can serve the
function of a garnish on pastries. Thin, wispy hoops, ribbons, or even sugar roses
can be used to decorate wedding cakes and plated desserts. There are many
forms of sugar that can be used for sugar work. Granulated sugar is used to create
the cast, blown, crystallized, and pulled components, while powdered sugar is used
to make pastillage.
Introducing textures into the sugar work can be achieved through the use of
crystalline sugar, pressed sugar, propagated sugar crystals, or even pressed
brown sugar. The most important area to consider when working with sugar is
moisture. Many of the mediums used for sugar work are hygroscopic, meaning
they can readily absorb moisture from the air and direct contact with water. High
humidity will cause the sugar to become sticky and cause the sugar to become dull
and hazy, which could ultimately lead to the structural failure of the piece.
Cooking Sugar
In order to work with sugar, it must first be cooked. When it comes to showpieces,
cooking sugar holds as much importance as chocolate tempering. An inability to do
both makes it difficult to create the piece. Cooking sugar is not as easy as dropping
a thermometer into the pan and following directions. Mise en place of ingredients
and equipment will facilitate the cooking of sugar and assembling of a showpiece.
Guidelines
1. Cooked sugar is extremely hot and can cause serious burns, so it is critical to
use extreme caution when working with sugar. It is recommended to wear
gloves when working with sugar. The gloves can easily be removed if hot sugar
gets on your hands.
2. Thoroughly clean all equipment and surfaces that will be used for cooking and
working with the sugar.
3. Calibrate the thermometer to ensure the sugar is cooked to the proper
temperature.
Ingredients
Sugar
Sugar purity and cleanliness are two factors that must be considered when
preparing to cook sugar. Granulated sugar is available from two sources: cane and
beet. While both are sucrose, the higher quality and more pure sugar is cane and
should be selected for cooking. The storage of the sugar in the shop contributes to
the cleanliness. A dry-ingredient storage bin containing granulated sugar will also
contain trace amounts of flours and other products in the pastry shop. These
contaminants could cause the sugar to crystallize or discolor during cooking.
A separate storage area for sugar used for cooking is recommended.
Granulated sugar is the low-cost alternative to using isomalt. When working with
sugar, avoid overheating the sugar under the heat lamp or working it too long. The
sugar is less forgiving than isomalt, and is prone to crystallize under these
conditions. Crystallized sugar has a cloudy appearance and will begin to form large
sugar crystals. As the sugar crystallizes the once pliable warm sugar will become
solid even when warmed, this sugar should be discarded.
Isomalt
Isomalt is a sugar alcohol that is resistant to humidity and crystallization. It was
first used as a bulking agent in sugar-free candies. Isomalt has half the sweetness
of granulated sugar, but performs the same physical function as sugar in a recipe.
Resistance to crystallization and humidity make it ideal for sugar work. Isomalt can
be cooked to higher temperatures and maintain a clear or pure white due to its
resistance to browning. All of these benefits come at a cost, as isomalt is
considerably more expensive than granulated sugar. However, its benefits
outweigh the cost.
Cooking time and amount of water may need to be adjusted to ensure all crystals
are fully dissolved during cooking. Be careful when increasing the quantity of water
because boiling the isomalt for an extended period of time will make the isomalt
brittle.
Water is the only additional ingredient added to the isomalt. It does not require any
glucose syrup or tartaric acid solution. When using isomalt, the same formula is
used for pulling, blowing, and casting. Another advantage of using isomalt is that it
can be cooked repeatedly. If a batch cooked for pulling contains crystals, more
water can be added to this sugar and it can be cooked again with no loss of quality.
Isomalt is cooked slightly higher than sugar, and will be more liquid when hot.
Additional cooling time is necessary for isomalt, but the same honey-like
consistency should be used to determine when to cast. All working techniques that
are done with sugar can be done the same way with isomalt.
Water
Water that is high in mineral content will discolor the cooked sugar or isomalt. As
the water evaporates during cooking, the minerals concentrate and may give the
sugar a yellow tint. Using distilled water will help to prevent this from occurring.
Distilled water has many of the impurities and nutrients removed from the water.
The formulas in this chapter contain specific amounts of water and sugar or
isomalt. The amount of water may need to be increased or decreased, depending
on the strength of the burner. Cooking sugar is not about speed. It is important that
all the crystals dissolve. By increasing the amount of water, the cooking time will be
extended. When working with granulated sugar, cooking time should not exceed 20
minutes. The longer the sugar boils, the more likely it is to have a yellow tint.
Glucose Syrup
Glucose syrup is an inverted sugar produced through the hydrolysis (breaking
down) of starch from wheat, corn, or potato. The resulting syrup is used to prevent
crystallization in the cooked sugar. Too much glucose syrup can have a
detrimental effect on the sugar, making it soft. When cooking sugar formulas with
glucose syrup, it must be added after the sugar is dissolved in the water. If added
too early, the sugar will not dissolve. It is not necessary to add glucose to isomalt.
Tartaric Acid
Acid is used when cooking granulated sugar to prevent crystallization and soften
the sugar to ease pulling. Including too much acid will make the sugar soft and
sticky; too little will make the sugar brittle. Tartaric acid is used when cooking
sugar. The reaction of the acid is immediate, and the acid can be added at the end
of cooking. Tartaric acid is available in a white powder form and must be dissolved
in water prior to use.
Tartaric acid is not the same as cream of tartar. Cream of tartar is slower acting
and must be added at the beginning of cooking. It is not necessary to add tartaric
acid to isomalt.
Color
Food coloring is added to the sugar during cooking. Liquid food colorings contain
acid as a preservative. The additional acid from the food coloring can weaken the
cooked sugar. Water-soluble powder colors are available in a wide variety of
colors. The powder cannot be directly added to the sugar, it must be dissolved in
water or alcohol first.
Mise en Place for Cooking Sugar

Cooking sugar takes a great deal of preparation and attention to the process. Mise
en place of the workstation and ingredients will help to ensure a successfully
cooked batch of sugar. This includes thoroughly cleaning all equipment and work
stations. Any contaminants, such as flour or grease can cause the sugar to
crystallize or become dull.
Induction versus Gas Stoves

Many kitchens contain both induction and gas stoves, and there is a great deal of
discussion about which is better for cooking sugar. Induction technology requires
special pans in order to work, and these burners are more powerful than gas
stoves. Induction burners provide a constant heat source, and a great deal of
temperature control can be achieved.
The heat of an induction burner is focused only on the bottom of the pan and does
not heat the sides, which is good and bad. Heating the sides of the pan can result
in caramelizing the sugar because the thin wall of the saucepan quickly transfers
the heat. Although too much heat up the side of the pan is not good, some heat is
needed. A gas stove that heats the sides of the pan will help dissolve sugar
crystals along the sides of the pan.
The type of heat source used to cook the sugar is not as important as focusing on
the technique of cooking. While the heat source and type of pan used may have an
impact on how the sugar cooks, the pastry chef ultimately controls the outcome.
When working with new equipment, conduct test batches to see what works best,
check and record heat settings and times. Once the cooking of the sugar has been
mastered, the focus can be placed on the techniques of pulling and blowing.
Casting Sugar
Cast sugar is made using granulated sugar, water, and glucose syrup. There is no
additional acid added to cast pieces to ensure these pieces are solid. Cast pieces
provide the structural support to the showpiece and do not require the flexibility
needed for pulled and blown pieces.
Procedures for Casting Sugar

Cast sugar is used to create base and structural elements for showpieces. Sugar
can be cast into many shapes, using silicone noodles, metal bars, flexipans,
silicone molds, and metal cake rings. To create a bottom of the mold, these forms
are placed on silicone mats or vinyl sheets.
It is important that the casting surface is flat and level, so the casting is the same
thickness the entire length of the piece. Pieces that are cast flat can be rewarmed
and bent to give more dimension. To create more dramatic effects, using multiple
colors when casting can enhance cast components, creating a marbleized design.
Inlays of airbrushed pastillage can be placed inside clear cast sugar, creating a
design that looks as if it is trapped in glass. This technique also gives the pastillage
a shiny finish.
Casting Method
Equipment needed: Rubber gloves, vinyl sheet, parchment paper, blowtorch,
frame:
1. Place a sheet of parchment paper under the silicone mold, vinyl sheet, or silpat.
If a silicone mold is not available, use metal bars of metal cake rings to create
the desired shape.
2. Cook the sugar and cool to a honey-like consistency, which will ensure that it is
bubble free. If the sugar is too cold, it will not flow into the mold evenly and will
trap air and create bubbles in the sugar. Pour the sugar into the mold, starting
at one end. Slowly pour the sugar until the mold is filled.
3. Quickly pass a blowtorch over the top of the piece, which will remove any
surface bubbles.
4. Allow the piece to cool completely; a slightly warm piece will bend a little before
cracking. Once the sugar has set, a fan can be used to shorten cooling time.
5. Carefully remove the silicone mold from the sugar. If using a silpat or vinyl
sheet, slide the vinyl to the edge of the table and pull down. The vinyl will peel
off of the sugar while leaving the sugar flat. Turn the vinyl sheet and remove the
other half of the cast piece from the vinyl. Trying to lift the sugar off of the vinyl
will break the sugar.
Pouring the sugar into the mold (step 2)
Blow torching to remove the bubbles (step 3)
Removing the sugar from the silicone (step 5)

FIGURE 14.1a–c
Casting into Vinyl Tubing Method

Casting sugar into vinyl tubing creates a perfect cylindrical tube of clear sugar. This
method can be used to create hoops and cylinders used for decoration or support.
When cutting and shaping temperature is critical. If the sugar is too hot, the tube
will lose shape. Too cold and it will snap, this can be remedied by placing the tube
under the warming lamp.
Equipment needed: ⅝ in. inside diameter vinyl tubing, masking tape, pitcher, utility
knife, rubber gloves, 8-in. cake ring, parchment paper, silpat:
1. Warm the vinyl tube under a heat lamp until it becomes pliable. Warming the
tube will help the sugar to flow better.
2. Tape both ends of the tube to the side of the worktable, make sure it is secured
well.
3. Transfer the cooked sugar to a pitcher. For this technique, the sugar needs to
be thinner than other casting methods.
4. Pour the sugar into the tube from one end, continuing until the tube is full.
5. Let the sugar cool until the tube is still flexible but not hard, at this point the
sugar will not run out of the ends of the tube.
6. Remove the tube from the table, use the box cutter and cut along the length of
the tube.
7. Remove the sugar from the tube and shape around the cake ring.
8. Allow the ring to cool completely before moving.
9. Cut the tube to the desired length with a hot knife.
Filling the tube with the sugar (step 4)
Cutting the vinyl tube (step 6)
Shaping the sugar (step 7)
The finished cooled tube

FIGURE 14.2a–d
Casting into Sugar Method

Creating larger pieces and new shapes can sometimes be challenging when just
starting out working with sugar. Granulated sugar can be used to create a variety
of organic shapes, with the texture of the granulated sugar.
Equipment needed: stainless steel bowl or hotel pan, granulated sugar, rubber
gloves:
1. Fill the stainless steel bowl ¾ full with granulated sugar.
2. Create a form in the sugar using your hand.
3. Cast the liquid sugar.
4. Cover the cast sugar with the granulated sugar; be careful as the cast sugar is
extremely hot.
5. Allow the sugar to cool until it is almost solid.
6. Carefully move the cast piece while it is still in the granulated sugar.
7. Let the piece fully cool and remove from granulated sugar.
Creating the shape in the granulated sugar (step 2)
Casting the sugar (step 3)
The finished piece

FIGURE 14.3a–c Casting into sugar:
Bending Cast Sugar Method

Equipment needed: Silpat, warming lamp, form to shape sugar:
1. After the sugar has completely cooled, unmold and transfer to a silpat.
2. Place the silpat and sugar on the warmer or in a 160°F (70°C) oven.
3. As the sugar warms, it will become flexible, while maintaining the shape. The
goal is to warm the sugar and keep the clean edges.
4. Place the warmed sugar on the mold, in this case a rolling pin, and cool
completely.
Sugar placed over rolling pin (step 4)
Finished cooled piece

FIGURE 14.4a–b Bending cast sugar:
Procedures for Bubble Sugar
Bubble sugar can be produced through casting or by melting isomalt in the oven.
Both methods give slightly different looks. Bubble sugar provides a filler to
showpieces to create volume, the look of water to an underwater themed piece, or
as abstract leaves.
Bubble Sugar Casting Method

Equipment needed: 2 half sheets of parchment paper, rubber gloves:
1. Crumple up one of the sheets of parchment and flatten out. The creases in the
paper will trap the air that will form the bubbles.
2. Pour sugar along one side of the crumpled paper.
3. Lift the paper so the sugar runs down; hold this over the other piece of
parchment in case some of the sugar drips off.
4. Let the sugar cool, then remove from the paper.
Pouring the sugar on the crumpled paper (step 2)
Lifting the paper (step 3)
The finished bubble sugar

FIGURE 14.5a–c Bubble sugar casting:
Bubble Sugar Oven Method

Equipment needed: 2 half silpats, half sheet pan:
1. Place one silpat on the sheet pan and sprinkle with isomalt. At this point color
can be added by very lightly dusting the isomalt with powder food coloring.
2. Place the other silpat on top.
3. Bake in the oven at 350°F (175°C) for 10 minutes. Check to see that the isomalt
has all melted. If not, you will be able to see crystals through the silpat. If there
are still crystals, place back in the oven for 2 more minutes.
4. Allow the isomalt to cool before removing silpat.
Sprinkle isomalt onto silpat-lined sheet pan (step 1)
Finished bubble sugar

FIGURE 14.6a–b Bubble sugar oven method:
Pulling and Blowing Sugar

Pulled and blown sugar is manipulated by hand to create delicate ribbons and
flowers. Properly cooked sugar will maintain a brilliant shine and be free from
crystals. This formula is the same with the addition of the tartaric acid solution,
which helps to increase the flexibility of the sugar when it is warm and prevent
crystallization.
When cooking sugar for pulling and blowing, it is important that the sugar cook for
approximately 20 minutes. The quantity of water and intensity of the heat can be
adjusted to reach the correct time. The quality of the sugar will also have an impact
on the boiling time. If cooked too quickly, the sugar crystals may not be fully
dissolved before reaching the final temperature. Due to the thin nature of pulled
sugar elements, crystals can easily be seen. When casting, the cooking time is not
as important because these pieces tend to be thicker and opaque.
Satinizing Sugar
Satinizing is the process of folding air into the sugar. This makes the sugar
opaque and creates the shine of pulled sugar. After cooking, the sugar is poured
onto a silpat-covered marble slab to decrease the cooling time. The cooling starts
from the outside edge of the sugar while the middle remains hot. When the edges
of the sugar harden slightly, fold them into the center of the hot sugar. Leaving this
outer edge to cool completely before folding in can result in sugar crystals in the
pulled sugar. It is difficult to melt these crystals once they form; cooling the mass of
sugar in a uniform way will prevent this.
Sugar that is not satinized will have a glassy appearance. In the same way,
overworking the sugar or folding in too much air will cause the sugar to have a dull
finish. The cooler the sugar is, the better for satinizing. As the sugar cools it retains
the air better, creating a more reflective sugar. All colors can be satinized with the
exception of black—incorporating air into black sugar creates gray.
Satinizing Method
Equipment needed: Rubber gloves, scissors:

1. Fold the sugar over onto itself on the silpat to cool. Continue folding until the
sugar no longer moves but is still soft.
2. Roll the sugar into a cylinder.
3. Pick up the ends of the sugar, place one hand at each end.
4. Pull the sugar out from the center, fold in half and twist.
5. Pull again out from the center, fold, and twist again. Continue doing this until
the sugar is opaque and shiny.
6. Lay the sugar out flat and cut with scissors; completely cool the sugar.
7. Store the sugar in zippered plastic bags and reserve for pulling or blowing.
Folding the sugar (step 1)
Pulling the sugar (step 4)
Twisting to incorporate air (step 4)
Finished satinized sugar

FIGURE 14.7a–d
Pulled Sugar
Pulling sugar is an art form that relies on touch to determine when the sugar is the
correct temperature for creating ribbons, flowers, and other decorations. Practicing
and perfecting the skills are truly the only way to master them.
Sugar Ribbon Method

A sugar ribbon requires multiple colors of sugar to be heated to the same
consistency. It is critical that the different colors be consistent in feel so they will
stretch at the same rate. It is a delicate balance of temperature, warm enough to
be pliable and connect when folded over, but not too hot that the sugar loses the
sheen. Work with single colored ribbons to get the feel for temperature and
learning the process. Once a good single-colored ribbon can be made, add more
colors.
Equipment needed: Heat lamp, knife, blowtorch, wet towel, rubber gloves:
1. Roll five pieces of colored satinized sugar into cylinders approximately 1 in. (3
cm) in diameter and 5 in. (12.5 cm) long, and one piece of black sugar the
same length and ⅓ in. (1 cm) in diameter.
2. Lay the pieces side by side and connect them.

3. Pick up the ends of the ribbon, place one hand at each end.
4. Stretch the ribbon out from the center.
5. Fold the ribbon in half and connect in the middle.
6. Repeat the stretching and folding two more times.
7. Pull the ribbon out to the desired thickness and lay it flat on a marble table.
8. Using the blowtorch heat the knife to cut the ribbon. The knife must be hot
enough to cut through the sugar without discoloring the sugar or sticking. Wipe
the knife on the wet towel between cuts to clean the blade.
9. Rewarm the ribbon under the heat lamp, shape as needed.
Lining up the sugar (step 2)
Pulling out the strands (step 4)
Cutting with hot knife (step 8)
Assorted ribbons
FIGURE 14.8a–d
Sugar Rose Method

When making a sugar rose refer to a picture of a real rose. The goal is to capture
the thin edges, the shape, positioning and beauty of how the petals come together
to form the flower. When pulling a sugar rose be sure that each layer has odd
numbers, to keep the rose round. When moving from one row of petals to the next
the petals should increase in size and become more rounded.
Equipment needed: Sugar warmer, silpat, scissors, alcohol burner:
1. Shape a piece of sugar into a teardrop shape to form the center of the rose.
2. To pull the petals, stretch a thin edge on the sugar using two hands; this will
give the flower a delicate look.
3. Pinch the sugar between the thumb and index finger and pull out.
4. Cut the sugar off and position around the flower center.
5. The next row is composed of three petals, pulled slightly wider than the
previous row. The right edge of each of these petals will be curled back slightly.
6. Connect the petals by slightly melting the bottom over the burner.
7. The outer set of petals will need five petals. These petals have a more
pronounced, cupped shape formed by pressing the petal into the left palm with
the right thumb. The top of the petal is pinched in the center and the edges are
curled out.
8. Connect the petals by slightly melting the bottom over the burner.
Thinning the edge of the sugar (step 2)
Pulling the petal with thumb and index finger (step 3)
Attaching the petal to the bud (step 4)
One picture showing all the petals and layers of the rose from bud to
finished
FIGURE 14.9a–d
Placing the sugar in the press (step 3)
Removing the sugar from the press (step 4)

FIGURE 14.10a–b
Pressed Leaves Method

Silicone and metal molds can be used to give pulled sugar texture. These molds
can replicate a leaf or create a diamond pattern in the sugar. The extra lines
pressed into the pulled sugar create different angled surfaces to refract light. Pulled
sugar that will be pressed can be pulled slightly thicker, keeping it warm and
flexible while in the press.
Equipment needed: Scissors, mold, warming lamp:
1. To pull the petals, stretch a thin edge on the sugar using two hands.
2. Pull the petal out and cut with scissors to the desired shape.
3. Quickly place the sugar on the press and close the mold; press firmly.
4. Remove the leaf and shape as desired.
Blown Sugar
Blown sugar, the most challenging of the three sugar working techniques,
requires the use of a pump to inflate the sugar to create hollow spheres, flowers,
figurines, and fruits. When working with blown sugar, it is important to understand
the vital role of temperature. It is difficult to state the temperature at which the
sugar is ready to be placed on the pump. The complexity of the piece and skill of
the pastry chef must also be considered. A piece that is more complex needs to be
warmer, to allow for additional working time to shape the sugar. The same holds
true with a novice sugar worker—it will take longer to form the sugar and therefore
it will need to be warmer. Over time, you will build the skills to work with the sugar
at a cooler temperature and retain more of the shine.
Sugar blowing is not just about pumping air into sugar. As the air is blown into the
sugar, the pastry chef must shape the sugar. For example placing sugar on a
pump and blowing in air will not create a sphere. The air is pumped in slowly into
the sugar; carefully watch the sugar to see how it is expanding. Hold the piece at
eye level and turn so you can observe all sides. Keeping one hand on the pump
and the other on the sugar will help to steady the sugar while still being able to add
more air if needed.
The sugar may start to slowly bulge on one side. This is due to the sugar being
slightly thinner and/or warmer. The thinner the sugar, the less resistance there is
for the air to push it outward. To control this, place a hand over the bulge. The
temperature of your hand is lower than that of the sugar and it begins to cool the
sugar making it expand less. If the sugar is too cool, it can be warmed slightly
under the heat lamp to make it more flexible. After the piece has been shaped, cool
it completely using a fan or hair dryer that has a cool setting.
Placing Sugar on the Pump Method

Before placing the sugar on the pump, it is critical that the sugar temperature be
equalized. This can be done by folding the sugar to make sure the internal
temperature matches the external temperature. A consistent temperature will
cause the sugar to expand at a more even rate.
Equipment needed: Warming lamp, sugar pump, fan, scissors, rubber gloves,
alcohol burner:
1. Fold the sugar onto itself to equalize the temperature and smooth the outside of
the sugar.
2. Cut a ball off the edge of the sugar with room-temperature scissors (hot
scissors will stick to the sugar).
3. Press a finger into the bottom of the ball (cut end). Pushing too far will cause a
thin spot to form at the top of the sugar.
4. Warm the opening of the sugar over the alcohol burner and attach the sugar.
Do not push the end of the tube all the way into the sugar, as the tube will
become clogged and the sugar will not expand. Quickly press the sugar onto
the tube.
5. Pump a little air into the sugar to be sure it is sealed.
Cutting the ball of sugar (step 2)
Inserting a finger (step 3)
Placing the sugar on the tube (step 4)

FIGURE 14.11a–c Placing sugar on the pump:
Blowing a Sphere Method

A sphere may look like a simple shape, but learning to blow a sphere is a
foundational element of blowing sugar. The simplicity of the shape makes it
challenging, as any inconsistencies in the sphere can be easily noted. The goal is
to create a perfectly round sphere with walls of even thickness. More advanced
blown forms like fruit also start out as spheres.
alcohol burner:
1. After checking that the sugar is completely sealed on the tube, slowly pump a
little air into the sugar.
2. Check the sugar to see if it is expanding equally in all directions. If the sugar is
expanding too much in one area, cool it by placing your hand on the warm spot.
Sugar that is too thin will eventually cool and pop when more air is added. If the
sugar is too thin, remove it from the pump and start again.
3. When the sphere is expanding equally, pump in some more air.
4. Using your hand, begin pushing the sphere away from the tube; be careful to
not pinch the sugar close by the tube.
5. Use your hand to round the sphere.
6. Continue pumping air into the sugar until the desired size has been reached.
7. Completely cool the sphere.
8. To remove the sphere, warm the sugar near to the tube and cut with scissors.
Sliding the sugar up from the pump (step 4)
Using a hand to round the sphere (step 5)
Continue filling the sphere with air (step 6)
Finished sphere
FIGURE 14.12a–d Blowing a sphere:
Blown Sugar Flower Center

Blown sugar can be used to add volume to a showpiece. These larger pieces carry
a visual weight from the size of the piece. As a result of being hollow, they do not
carry any physical weight—therefore, the impact on the physical structure of the
showpiece is low.
alcohol burner, blowtorch, knife, wet towel:
1. After checking that the sugar is completely sealed on the tube, slowly pump a
little air into the sugar.
2. Shape the sugar into a cylinder on the tube; add a small amount of air.
3. Pinch the top of the sphere about a quarter of the way down the cylinder. The
sugar should now look like a bowling pin.
4. Add some more air. While doing this, continue to work the sugar away from the
pump. Pulling the piece away from the pump will develop an elegant long piece.
Adding air and not pulling will result in a more rounded shape.
5. Hold the tube in one hand, and with the other pull the pinched piece out to
elongate the thinner portion.
6. Quickly cut the tip of the sugar off. The remaining heat will seal the sugar.
7. Continue pumping in air until the desired size is reached.
8. Remove the sugar from the tube and cut the thinner section with a hot knife.
Elongating the sugar (step 3)
Stretching out the pinched piece (step 5)
The blown piece attached to the blowing tube
Finished piece
FIGURE 14.13a–d
Crystalline Sugar
Sugar showpieces are characterized by their clarity, shine, and bright colors.
Granulated sugar and propagated crystals are ways to add texture and color to a
showpiece. Granulated sugar can be added to a showpiece by folding into pulled
sugar, coating pulled or cast sugar, or by pressing.
Pressed Sugar
Pressed sugar closely resembles the texture of a sugar cube. Granulated sugar is
combined with a small amount of water and pressed into a mold and allowed to
dry.
Propagated Crystals
Propagated crystals are formed by submerging an item into a sugar syrup for
several days or weeks. A blown piece of sugar or a sculpted piece of shortening is
coated in sugar and placed in the sugar syrup. The submerged item forms a seed
and attracts more sugar crystals to it. Over a period of time the water in the
container evaporates, increasing the sugar concentration and causing the crystals
to form at a faster rate. When the finished product is removed from the syrup and
allowed to dry it resembles rock sugar and can be used to decorate a showpiece.
Pastillage
Pastillage is used to create showpieces as well as accent pieces for a sugar
showpiece. What makes a sugar showpiece beautiful and attractive is the
transparency of the cast pieces and the sheen of pulled elements. Pastillage is
used to add different textures and opacity to a sugar showpiece through the use of
very thin decorative elements with a flat finish. It is pure white and can be easily
painted or airbrushed. Pastillage can be rolled with a rolling pin and cut, texturized,
shaped on curved forms, hand rolled, or pressed into molds. Before use, the
pastillage must be fully dried. Thin pieces can dry within an hour, while larger
pieces may take days.
Pastillage Cutout Method

Equipment needed: X-acto knife, vodka, potato starch sachet, templates, rolling
pin:
1. Knead the pastillage to soften. This will make it easier to roll.
2. Roll the pastillage to the desired thickness. Pastillage is very strong when dry.
Decorative elements can be rolled thin and will dry quickly.
3. Dip the X-acto knife in the vodka and shake off excess. The alcohol will help the
blade to cut cleanly; any excess left on the pastillage will evaporate quickly.
4. Cut the pastillage using the templates.
5. Place the pastillage on foam to dry, or over molds to create bends.
6. Pastillage can be sanded if needed.
Rolling (step 2)
Cutting (step 4)
Finished pastillage
FIGURE 14.15a–c Pastillage cutout method:
Rolling (step 2)
Finished assorted rollout shapes

FIGURE 14.16a–b Pastillage rollout method:
Pastillage Rollout Method

Equipment needed: Paring knife, cake board:
1. Knead the pastillage to soften. This will make it easier to roll.

2. Roll out a small piece of pastillage so it is tapered at one end.
3. Use the cake board toward the end of rolling to remove any marks left from
fingers.
4. Trim the end of the pastillage and shape immediately.
Pastillage Rock Method

Pastillage can be used to create shapes other than by rolling and cutting. Sculpting
can also be used to shape pastillage. A simple form to sculpt is rocks. More
complex figurines and animals can be made as well, but work must be done
quickly before the pastillage dries out and begins to crack.
Pastillage rocks being airbrushed (step 2)
Water being applied (step 3)
Dipping the rocks (step 5)
Finished piece with rocks

FIGURE 14.17a–d Pastillage rock method:
Equipment needed: Airbrush, brush, dipping fork, silpat:
1. Shape pastillage with your hands into smooth river-rock shapes.
2. After the pastillage has dried, airbrush with two to three colors.
3. Apply water to rocks using a paintbrush; allow to dry.
4. Warm up clear sugar, the sugar needs to be hot and free of bubbles.
5. Dip the pastillage into the sugar, using the fork transfer the rock to the silpat.
Assembling Pastillage
Before assembling a pastillage piece, be sure that the pastillage is completely dry
and free of any dust from rolling or sanding. There are three methods that can be
used to attach pastillage: royal icing, cooked sugar, or pastillage glue. Royal icing
is a mixture of egg whites and powered sugar that dries hard. In addition to gluing,
it can be used for decorative string work or piping on a sugar piece. Microwaving
pastillage to a liquid state makes pastillage glue. Both pastillage glue and cooked
sugar will set very quickly.
Sculpture Design
Designing a sculpture from sugar is similar to designing a piece from chocolate.
Both mediums have several similarities: structural shape, importance of color, focal
point, OVP, and incorporating theme. What really sets a sugar piece apart from
chocolate is the use of transparent or clear sugar. A strong sugar piece can be
created, and using clear sugar will make parts of the piece appear to float while
being firmly connected.
Structure Design
Base
The bases of a sugar piece can be made from cast sugar or pressed sugar. The
overall height of the piece needs to be considered when creating the base. A tall,
slender showpiece with a small base will need enough weight to anchor the piece
and prevent it from falling over. For larger pieces, it is important to remember that
the base should include elements of the theme and not just be a supporting piece.
Hot sugar can be used to attach the showpiece to the display base, providing
additional support.
Structure
Sugar pieces follow the same structural shapes as were discussed in Chapter 13
on page 421, J, C, E, S and straight line. There are some differences in how the
structure can be assembled, taking advantage of the clarity of the sugar. Rather
than casting one large thick piece, multiple panes of sugar can be cast and spaced
apart. Using this approach gives the piece the stability and strength needed. It also
enhances the design of the piece; the empty space between the cast sugar adds to
the lightness of the piece.
Incorporating Design in the Structure

The clarity of the sugar provides another way to incorporate the theme of the
showpiece into the structure. Pastillage can be cut, painted, and airbrushed to
incorporate theme elements into the structural pieces. Placing silicone molds or
vinyl cutouts down before casting the sugar will create a negative impression in the
backside of the sugar. Using vinyl will make the design clear; silicone will create
small bubbles in the sugar.
Color
When working with color on sugar work, refer to “Color” in Chapter 13 on pages
422–424. The rules of selecting color apply the same way. When working with
sugar, many shades of the same color can be used on the same piece. An
attractive piece can be created using only white and various shades of pink, this
would be difficult to achieve with chocolate colors. Structural pieces can be cast in
lighter shades of pink, then moving to darker shades of pink and white within the
flowers. When working with color, experiment with the colors each time the piece is
practiced to see what works and what does not.
A batch of casting sugar can be colored with a few drops of blue, just giving it a
light tint, so it will resemble a pane of glass. Adding additional blue will continue to
deepen the color. The sugar can be made opaque by adding titanium dioxide along
with the blue. When adding color to pulling sugar, the color must be strong. As the
sugar is satinized, the color will lighten. It is better to have dark pulled sugars that
can be lightened by mixing with other pulled sugar. White pulled sugar does not
have any color added; the air that is worked into the sugar makes it opaque.
FIGURE 14.18 Cast sugar with a lot of blue (top), a piece with a few drops
of blue (center), a piece of the blue with titanium dioxide added (bottom)
Assembly
Assembling sugar pieces requires a great deal of care to make sure that the pieces
are affixed properly. Sugar pieces are very strong when bonded properly. Both
pieces need to be warmed to create a solid fusion.
It is important to consider temperature when attaching sugar pieces. A piece that
was made a day prior to assembly or one that is in a cold room will be more fragile
than one that was just cast. The heat of a torch is extremely hot compared to a
room-temperature piece of sugar. This amount of heat can cause areas of the
sugar to expand while others do not—this is called thermal shock. The cracks
may not be visible but may be heard during assembly. This will weaken the
structure of the piece. To prevent this from happening, the pieces can be warmed
slightly under a heat lamp.
Assembling Sugar Method

Equipment needed: Silpat, small torch:
1. Place the pieces being assembled on a silpat. When assembling pieces, there
may be enough heat to melt a piece and have it stick to the worktable.
2. Test-fit the pieces to see where the sugar will need to be heated.
3. Pull a thread of sugar the length of the pieces being attached.
4. Warm the edge of the sugar and place the pulled sugar thread. This small
thread will help to fill any low spots in the seam and make the connection
stronger.
5. Heat both pieces of sugar where they will connect. A small butane torch makes
it easier to direct the heat directly where it is needed. Overheating the sugar will
cause it to drip.
6. Quickly place the warmed areas together; press firmly to make sure the
connection is solid. Pressing too hard may crack the sugar.
7. Use a fan to blow cool air on the seam.
Sugar is difficult to work with in humid environments and will not only stick to your
gloves but also to itself. Sticky sugar can create the feeling that the pieces are
properly attached but then they will fall apart shortly after. When melting sugar to
attach a piece, the sugar should begin to bubble but not drip. Doing this with both
surfaces will ensure a solid connection.
Placing the thread on the sugar (step 4)
Melting the thread (step 5)
Placing the pieces together (step 6)

FIGURE 14.19a–c
Component Inventory
When designing a showpiece, it is important to get the ideas down on paper. After
the sketch is completed, the design moves into the next phase. Utilizing different
techniques and components in the piece will help to create a more interesting
piece.
Component Inventory for Sugar Showpieces
Cast Pulled Blown
Pressed Sugar Vinyl Tubes Bent
Pastillage Ribbon Molded
When designing a sculpture, it is important to take into consideration what is truly

needed and what is not. The hardest skill to learn in designing a showpiece is
editing. Not every item on the component needs to be included in the design.
Troubleshooting for Sugar Work
Troubleshooting for Sugar Work
Sugar has a yellow 1. The flame was too high and sugar on the edge of the
tint. pan caramelized. Use a smaller pan or reduce heat.
2. The sugar cooked for too long. Turn the heat up
slightly to reduce cooking time.
3. There were minerals in the water. Use filtered water
for cooking sugar.
Sugar is sticky. 1. Too much acid. Decrease amount for next batch.
2. Sugar was not cooked to the correct temperature.
Calibrate thermometer and cook another batch.
Sugar is dull. 1. There were impurities in the sugar. Be sure to skim

the sugar when cooking.
2. Sugar was too hot when pulled. Allow the sugar to
cool more before satinizing.
Crystals can be seen The sugar did not fully dissolve. Let the syrup sit for 24
in the sugar. hours before cooking.
Sugar piece 1. Too much acid was added to the sugar. Decrease
collapses. the amount of acid.
2. Sugar was not cooked to the proper temperature.
Calibrate thermometer and cook another batch of
sugar.
Sugar is brittle. 1. Not enough acid. Increase the amount of acid.

2. Sugar was cooked too high. Calibrate thermometer
and cook another batch of sugar.
Crystals can be seen 1. Isomalt was not cooked long enough. Increase the
in isomalt. amount of water and cook the isomalt again.
2. Heat was too high. Reduce heat and cook slower to
dissolve crystals.
Isomalt is brittle and When cooking, the isomalt boiled too long. Increase the
hot when pulling. heat and cook the isomalt again.
Recipes
Isomalt
Portions: 1

Yield Description: 1 portion at 3 lb 6 oz (1550 g)
Isomalt Type M 2 lb 3.3 oz 1000 g
Water 5.3 oz 150 g
Note: Total water can be increased to 9 oz (250 g). When pulling or blowing isomalt, some
undissolved crystals may be present during the satinizing of the isomalt. This can result from
the isomalt being cooked to quickly. Since all stoves do not have the same intensity,
adjustments may need to be made to the level of heat, amount of water, or cooking time.
This will ensure that all isomalt crystals have fully dissolved.
Procedure
1. Place water in a heavy-bottom saucepan.
2. Add a small amount of the isomalt and stir until dissolved.
3. Gradually add more isomalt; using this method will cook the isomalt faster than
adding it all in the pan at the beginning.
4. Use cold water to clean any isomalt crystals off the sides of the pan.
5. Add food coloring once all isomalt is dissolved.
6. Cook to 330°F (165°C).
7. Immediately shock the pan in ice water to prevent carry overcooking.
8. When the isomalt is free of bubbles and it has a honey-like consistency, it is
ready for casting.
Tartaric Acid Solution

Yield: 4 oz (120 g)
Portions: 1
Yield Description: 1 portion at 4 oz (120 g)
Tartaric Acid Powder 2.1 oz 60 g
Water 2.1 oz 60 g
Note: Tartaric acid solution can easily crystallize. All containers should be thoroughly
cleaned before using. After storage, the solution may begin to crystallize. If this occurs,
discard the solution.
Procedure
1. Scale the tartaric acid and place in a container.
2. Boil more water than needed, after the water has boiled scale the required
quantity directly into the tartaric acid.
3. Store the Tartaric Acid Solution in a glass dropper bottle.
Sugar for Casting

Portions: 1
Granulated Sugar 2 lb 3.3 oz 1000 g
Water 12.3 oz 350 g
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and water in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Warm slowly to
dissolve sugar.
2. Once the sugar is dissolved add the glucose syrup and continue cooking.
3. Skim the surface with a tea strainer to remove any impurities.
4. Using a clean brush and cold water, clean the sides of the pan to remove any
crystals that may have formed.
5. Continue cooking and add color at 285°F (140°C). To create opaque cast
sugar, combine titanium dioxide with water and add to the sugar.
6. Cook the syrup to 320°F (160°C).
7. Immediately shock the pan in ice water to prevent carryover cooking.
8. When the sugar is free of bubbles and the sugar has a honey-like consistency,
it is ready for casting.
Sugar for Pulling and Blowing

Portions: 1
Water 14.1 oz 400 g
Tartaric Acid Solution, page 465 10 drops 10 drops
Procedure
1. Combine sugar in water in a heavy-bottom saucepan. Warm slowly to dissolve
sugar.
2. Once the sugar has dissolved, add the glucose syrup and boil.
3. Skim the surface with a tea strainer to remove any impurities.
4. While the sugar syrup is still hot, cover the pan with plastic wrap and allow the
syrup to rest for 24 hours at room temperature. Resting the syrup overnight will
help dissolve any remaining sugar crystals.
5. Bring the syrup to a boil and clean the sides of the pan, using a clean brush and
cold water.
6. Add the Tartaric Acid Solution. Continue cleaning the pan as needed with the
brush.
7. Add colors at 285°F (140°C); adding the color too early in the cooking process
may change the color.
8. Cook the syrup to 320°F (160°C).
9. Immediately shock the pan in ice water to prevent carryover cooking.
10. Pour the syrup onto a silpat.
Pressed Sugar
Portions: 1
Water 1.8 oz 50 g
Note: Powder color can be added as needed to the water.
Procedure
1. Combine sugar and water; mix to a wet sand consistency.
2. Fill mold and pack the sugar into the mold.
3. Scrape the bottom of the mold to remove excess sugar.
4. Carefully unmold immediately.
5. Allow pressed sugar to dry completely 2 to 3 days.
FIGURE 14.14 Assorted pressed sugar
Pastillage
Portions: 1

Powdered Sugar 1 lb 12 oz 800 g
Potato Starch 7.1 oz 200 g
Cold Water 4.2 oz 120 g
White Vinegar 0.5 oz 15 g
Additional Potato Starch, for dusting
Procedure
1. Bloom gelatin in the cold water.
2. Sift powdered sugar and potato starch.
3. Combine the gelatin and water mixture with glucose syrup and vinegar in a
saucepan.
4. Warm gelatin mixture to dissolve gelatin, do not overheat.
5. Place dry ingredients in a mixer with paddle attachment.
6. While mixing on low, add wet ingredients to dry ingredients; mix until combined.
7. Remove the mixture from the bowl and knead on a table dusted with potato
starch.
8. Wrap pastillage tightly in plastic wrap, then in a damp towel, and again in plastic
wrap to prevent drying.
9. Allow pastillage to rest overnight before using.
Royal Icing
Portions: 1
Powdered Sugar 1 lb 1.6 oz 500 g
Cream of Tartar 0.02 oz 0.5 g
Note: Increasing egg whites will create a looser icing; decreasing will produce a stiffer icing.
Procedure
1. Sift dry ingredients into a mixing bowl.

2. Using the paddle attachment, start mixing on low while adding egg whites.
3. Continue mixing until the desired consistency is reached and icing is smooth.
4. To store royal icing, cover the surface with a moist towel, then wrap tightly with
plastic wrap.
Key Terms
Hygroscopic
Isomalt
Glucose syrup
Tartaric acid
Cast sugar
Bubble sugar
Satinizing
Pulled sugar
Blown sugar
Propagated crystals
Pastillage
Royal icing
Thermal shock

1. Why is glucose added after the sugar has dissolved?
2. Describe the process of satinizing sugar.
3. What is the purpose of tartaric acid in pulled sugar?
4. What are the benefits of using isomalt for sugar work?
5. What are the structural shapes that are used for sugar pieces?

The Advanced Art of Baking Pastry

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The Advanced Art of Baking Pastry

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The Advanced Art of Baking & Pastry

PHOTOGRAPHY BY ANTHONY TAHLIER

A subject close to my heart, modern pastry techniques, is given due diligence in

Chapter 10 on plated desserts is a refreshingly up-to-date discussion on presentation,

Top Ten Pastry Chef by Dessert Professional Magazine

Emmy® Award-winning creator of The Chicago Restaurant Pastry Competition

Chicago Culinary FX—Michael Joy & Beatrice Schneider

John E. Koerner & Co. Inc.—Tim Koerner

Tomric Systems, Inc.—Tom Elsinghorst

How do you go from making a simple éclair to a plated dessert in a fine-dining

Skills for Success in the Pastry Shop

Work Area Organization

Pastry Shop Organization

Analyzing Fats in Pie Dough

Type of Fat Characteristics Cost Source

Butter Hard when cold, soft when room High Animal

Solid Hard when cold, firm when room Low Vegetable

Lard Hard when cold, firm when room Low Animal

FIGURE 1.1 Thermometer showing temperature ranges for bacteria growth

bakeshop—for example, egg products—should be stored on the bottom shelf of

Tools and Equipment

Alcohol Wick Burner

Scales and Thermometers

Digital Thermometer with Probe

Specialty Hand Tools

FIGURE 1.2 Countertop mixer

FIGURE 1.3a–c Dough hook, paddle, and whip

FIGURE 1.4 Spiral mixer

FIGURE 1.5 Divider

FIGURE 1.6 Divider rounder

FIGURE 1.7 Dough sheeter

FIGURE 1.8 Proof box

FIGURE 1.9 Deck oven

FIGURE 1.10 Rack oven

FIGURE 1.11 Convection oven

FIGURE 1.12 Combi oven

FIGURE 1.13 Blast chiller

FIGURE 1.14 Robot Coupe and Blixer

Robot Coupe Blixer

FIGURE 1.15 Vitamix

FIGURE 1.16 Immersion blender

Questions for Review

Ingredients and Function

Protein Contents in Flours

Protein Content Flour

11% Rye flour

15% Clear flour

21% Semolina flour

Grains and Seeds

Cold and Hot Soakers

FIGURE 2.1 Instant, active, and fresh yeast.

Fresh Active Dry Instant

Active Dry 0.5 oz 1 oz 1.5 oz

Instant 0.33 oz 0.66 oz 1 oz

Calculating Ingredient Percentages

Ingredient Pounds Ounces

Instant Yeast 0.15

Yields: Five 11 oz loaves

Instant Yeast 0.15

Bread Flour 100.00%

Instant Yeast 0.44%

Bread Flour 100.00%

Instant Yeast 0.44%

Calculating a Formula Using Percentages