Legolas Greenleaf

Amigurumi pattern by Crafty Tibbles

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Pattern copyright Christen Stone 2013. Please do not share copies or distribute
this pattern. If you sell products made from this pattern, please credit CraftyTibbles
as the designer. Thanks and enjoy!

Email [email protected] with any questions or mistakes found.

 Color Pallette Materials
Skin (Michael's Impeccable Heather) 3.50mm (E) hook
Scalp (slightly darker than his skin) 3.75mm (F) hook
Blonde (hair) 4.00mm (G) hook
Leafy Green (tunic) Worsted Weight (4) yarn
Dark Green (detail on tunic) Safety eyes (10.5mm)
Light Grey (undershirt, cloak) Fiberfill stuffing
Dark Grey (bracers, belt) Wire
Dark Olive (pants)
Chocolate Brown (boots)
Leather Brown (belts)

Stitches Used (US Terms)

magic ring BLO: Back loops only
slst: slip stitch FLO: Front loops only
hdc dec: half double crochet decrease
sc: single crochet hdc: half double crochet
inc: single crochet increase Surface slip stitches
dec: single crochet decrease Spike Stitch
3dcpop: Popcorn stitch made with 3 dc's
Helpful Notes!
The head and torso feature a lot of color changing. I recommend checking out these techniques to do
it cleanly and easily.
freshstitches.com/tip-for-working-long-color-changes-in-crochet/
planetjune.com/blog/amigurumi-help/changing-colour/colour-change-tutorials-right-handed/

For clean lines in color changes, I use a 2 step method. Step A will be to sl st around, then step B of
the round will be to sc around, going through the BLO of the slip stitches, and through the stitch
behind it.

Even if you don't want to wire your whole doll, you should still use wire or something similar for
support in the neck, and stuff the neck firmly. The head might be floppy otherwise.
Head (E)
Begin with scalp color
r1 6sc in magic ring (6)
r2 *inc* (12)
r3 *1sc, inc* (18)
r4 *2sc, inc* (24)
The next row begins color changes.
**Instructions in {blue} are to be worked
in skin color.**
r5 3sc, inc, 3sc {inc, 3sc, inc,3, inc} 3sc, inc, 3sc,
inc (30)
r6 4 sc, inc, 3sc {1sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc} 4sc, Attach eyes between r10 and r11, about
inc, 4sc, inc (36) 9 stitches apart.)
r7 9sc {15sc} 12sc (36) Sew the ears along the hair line.
r8 9sc {16sc} 11sc (36)
Sew the nose between the eyes.
r9 9sc {16sc} 11sc (36)
r10 9sc {17sc} 10sc (36)
r11 9sc {17sc} 10sc (36)
r12 9sc {18sc} 9sc (36)
r13 9sc {18sc} 9sc (36)
r14 9sc {19sc} 9sc (36)
r15 4sc, dec, 3sc {1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec,
4sc} dec, 4sc, dec (30)
r16 (1sc, dec)x3 {1, dec, 1, dec, 1, dec, 1, dec, 1,
dec} 1, dec,1, dec (20)
r17 6sc {14} (20)
r18 *dec* (10)
r19 *dec* (5)

Nose (F)
r1 5 sc in magic ring (5)

Push shape out and sew between and

slightly below eyes.

Ears x2 (F)
r1 4 sc in magic ring (4)
r2 inc, sc around (5)
r3 inc, 2sc, inc, sc (7)
Mush flat and pointy, sew into the hairline,
lined up with the eyes.
Feet & Legs (F)
The body is crocheted from the feet up.
Begin with dark brown
r1 5sc in magic ring (5)
r2 *inc* (10)
r3 *1sc, inc* (15)
r4 BLO sc around (15)
r5 5sc, dec, dec, 6sc (13)
r6 5sc, dec, 6sc (12)
r7-8 sc around (12)
Change to dark olive
r9a slst around (12)
r9b sc around (12)
r11-13 sc around (12)
Repeat rounds 1-13 for a second leg, then
continue Legs before and after details. Line up the legs
r14 leg join*** (20) and pin them together to find the center.
r15 sc around (20)
r16 sc around (20)

Leg Join
•Once you have both legs, line them up straight and pin
them together with a yarn needle or pin.

•Attach yarn and sc in the 2 stitches where the legs touch

each other (going through both pieces). Begin by
inserting hook as shown, to ensure the round ends at
the back.

•Sc around both legs, making one big round (20sc). Ignore Insert hook as shown (right
the two stitches you made in the middle. handed) to begin r14.

Boot Details
•In the unused loops of r9a, sl st around in boot color,
leaving a gap at the front.

•In pants color, embroider a little V in the gap you left, to

make it look like his boots have a slit in the front.
R13: Begin at A, end at B. The first
2 sc you make will stitch the legs
together.
Torso (F)
Change to leafy green
r17a sl st around (20)
Work in dark green color changes on the front.
Start with 1 stitch of dark green in the center of r17, and
make a big triangle shape up to the neck. Decrease on
the sides, towards the back. The edges won't be
perfect, but we're going to surface sl st over it to clean it
up.
r17b sc around (20)
r18-21sc around (20)
r22 sc around (18)
r23 sc around (18)
r24 sc around, 2 dec on each side (14)
Change to skin color
r25 sl st around (14)
r26a *dec* (7)
r26b sc around (7)
Finish off and leave a tail to sew the head on.

Flaps (F)
Working in the unused loops of r17a (holding the
doll upside down), start in the front center, and sl st all
the way around.
Do not join last stitch, break at the end of
each round, and reattach for the next round.
r1-3 sc around (20) Numbers are how many dark stitches
are in that round
Weave in tails
r4 attach yarn, and sc a border all the way around.
Sc, ch, sc in the corners, and sl st into the V. (20)

Pictured upside down because

that's how it's worked!
After r1-3 After r4 border
Arms x2 (F)
Begin in skin color
r1 4 sc in magic ring (4)
r2 *inc* (8)
r3 sc around (8)
r4 3dc pop, 7sc (8)
Change to dark grey
r5a sl st around (8)
r5b sc around (8)
r6-7 sc around (8)
Change to light grey
r8a sl st around (8)
r8b sc around (8)
r9 sc around (8) Working in the unused loops of r10a,
Change to leafy green sl st around to make the cuff.
r10a sl st around (8)
r10b sc around (8)
r11-12 sc around (8)
Change to dark green
r13 sc, spike st, sc, slst across shoulder cap.

Finish off and leave a tail for sewing.

Assembly After r13

•Sew the arms on

•Starting behind one of the arms, surface sl st

along the dark green shape. Over the arm, down
the chest, and back up and over the other arm.

Surface slip stitches:

Insert hook through the surface
and slip stitch.
Belts (E)
•Using leather brown, surface sl st on the torso to make his belts. The diagram
below shows the direction I went. 1, 2, and 3 are each done seperately.

•For the grey belt, start at the front and go around, and instead of joining, ch8,
fasten off, and weave in the tail. Then tuck this chain into the belt.

Grey belt finished off and tucked in

Back view
Cloak (G)
Make in heather grey
r0 Ch 12
r1 hdc across, ch1, turn (11)
r2-5 hdc across, ch1, turn (11)
r6 hdc dec, 7hdc, hdc dec, ch1, turn (9)
r7-9 hdc across, ch1, turn (9)
r10 hdc dec, 5hdc, hdc dec (7)

Sc edge around 3 edges of cloak, then

ch8, finish off and leave a tail for sewing.

Assembly
•Pin the cloak in place

•The extra chain on the cloak will be what goes

across his neck. Add or remove chains as needed.

•Using the tail on the cloak, sew the cloak on.

Neatly for the front, then a few hidden tacking
stitches around the shoulders should do.

•I found these little metal leaf beads at Joann's for

another project, so I sewed one on for his cloak
clasp.
http://www.joann.com/blue-moon-12mm-metal-spacer-bead-leaf-20pk-silver/7080930.html
Bow (B)
I made this with a 2.25mm hook and
split yarn, because I find it hard to crochet a
tube that's only 4 stitches around and make
it look neat. Alternatively, you could do that.
The tube is about 4.5” (11.4~cm) long.

Make in brown
r1 4sc in magic ring (6)
r2 *inc* (8)
r3-29 sc around (8)
Insert piece of wire
r30 *dec* (4)

Close up, weave in end

Bend it so it looks like a bow.

To make the string, tie a piece of split
yarn on either end tightly, and weave in the
ends.

I attach the bow to his hand with a T-

pin, or you could sew it.
Hair
•I've included two different ways to do the hair. The
weft method is very time consuming but looks prettier,
and the latch hook is much simpler, quicker, and still
looks nice.

•They're both a very similar process, so if you get

stuck, cross reference between the two.

Weft Method Latch Hook Method

Weft Method
•In this method, we'll be making wefts of hair and sewing them to the head. I got the idea
from this great blog post, but I've slightly modified it for crochet.
http://sols-crew.tumblr.com/post/43975156663/tutorial-making-a-brushed-yarn-wig

You will need:

Four ply yarn that likes to split
Flat iron/hair straightener
Sewing thread and needle
All of the patience

•We will make 2 wefts. My process is outlined in

these pictures.

•Use pieces slightly longer than necessary. It

makes it easier to handle and you can trim it up
afterwards. Count on weft 2 being extra long
Full strands of yarn latched on a long
because it will also be braided.
piece of yarn
•Keep adding strands until the weft fits the area.
Don't bunch them up too tight though or it will
be too unruly!

•Alternatively, you could find a fine sock weight

yarn and use that as strands!

Yarn is split into single plies

Placement of weft 1

Yarn is flat ironed

Placement of weft 2
•Once your wefts are made, it's time to sew them on.

•Pin them in place, and weave the end tails into the
head, attaching them at the ends.

•With your sewing thread, securely sew the weft to the

head.

He's covered in hair! Now what?!

•Legolas has 3 braids. A large fisthtail in the back, and a

small braid on either side.

•Start by sectioning out the hair of weft 2. The middle

section is NOT in the braid, sections 1 and 2 make the
braid.
Stop and laugh at his skullet for a moment
•Fishtail braids are surprisingly simple, I learned how
from this tutorial.

Wefts let you get nice, clean hairlines

•In the gap between the wefts, attach a few strands

of yarn directly to the head with the latch hook
method.

•Split them and straighten them.

•Braid them with the basic 3 strand braid.

•Sew them along the scalp with your sewing thread.

Section to braid
Latch Hook Method
•In this method, the hair goes in the same places, but the
strands of yarn are attached directly to the head.
•Attach strands of yarn along these lines:

More scraggly elf skullet***

•Use pieces slightly longer than necessary. It makes it
easier to handle and you can trim it up afterwards. Count
on the top hairline being extra long because it will also be
braided.
He's covered in hair! Now what?!
•Legolas has 3 braids. A large fisthtail in the back, and a
small braid on either side.
•Start by sectioning out the hair on the top. The middle
section is NOT in the braid, sections 1 and 2 make the
braid.
•Fishtail braids are surprisingly simple, I learned how
from this tutorial.

Section to braid

•Add 3 strands above his ears, and braid them with a simple
3 strand braid. Sew them back to the scalp if needed.
***Pro tip!***
•Full strands of yarn can still benefit from a little flat-ironing.
As you can see, coming out of the skein, the yarn is kind of
scraggly and kinked up. Iron it out and it looks much better! Section braided
•Sew his head on!

•Finish the braids by tying them off with a piece of hair

colored yarn. Weave the knot in and disguise it as
another piece of hair.

•Trim up his hair, do this carefully and little by little!

You're all done! I'd love to see your creations from my patterns, tag me @craftytibbles ,
email me at [email protected], and feel free to ask me any questions.