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Gyarados
Gyarados
nerdpillohandmade.blogspot.com/2018/09/large-gyarados-crochet-pattern.html
I love Gyarados! He's definitely one of my favorite Pokemon (I have a thing for water
Pokemon). I really wanted to make a cute little Gyarados crochet pattern, most of the ones I
could find were not exactly what I had in mind. So I set out to make my own pattern! But as I
went, I realized I had misjudged the size - a lot. I kept going, though. I was really pleased
with how he was shaping up, and that's how we ended up with the 40" long Gyarados
wonder!
I would like to say this pattern is advanced. Also, this post is very picture heavy. You'll
need to know double crochet, slip stitch, increase, decrease, front loop only stitching, and
triple crochet. You'll also need to know how to crochet in rounds, rows and magic circles.
Personally, I wired my Gyarados so he could be posed and placed in different positions. I
also needle felted his eyes, but you can easily do felt shapes and glue them on, or sew them
on if you prefer. This pattern takes me about three full days of crochet and binge watching
Netflix! You can make a regular Gyarados using blue yarn, or make a shiny Gyarados by
using red instead! I made one of each, so the photos with the instructions may vary in
color.
Crochet Terms
Materials Needed
White, lemon, pink, dark teal and blue yarn, worsted weight (substitute red yarn instead of
blue, and dark maroon instead of dark teal for a shiny Gyarados) *I use red heart Super
Saver brand yarn
3 mm crochet hook
yarn needle
scissors
Needle felting supplies or felt for the eyes, in red, black and white (substitute orange instead
of red for shiny)
Optional: Clothesline wire, or other wire or any joints you prefer to use in your amigurumi
1. MR 6
2. INC in each stitch round (12)
3. *SC, INC* x 6 (18)
4. *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24)
5. *3 SC, INC* x 6 (30)
6. *4 SC, INC* x 6 (36)
7. *5 SC, INC* x 6 (42)
8. *6 SC, INC* x 6 (48)
9. *7 SC, INC* x 6 (54)
10. *8 SC, INC* x 6 (60)
11. *9 SC, INC* x 6 (66)
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12. *10 SC, INC* x 6 (72)
13. 36 SC FLO, turn (36)
14. 108 SC - when you reach the beginning of the last row simply continue around. You'll end
up with a slope in your round. Do the same thing every time this happens and just
continue in the rounds over uneven stitches to create a round. Turn.
15. *5 SC, DEC* x 6 (30)
16. 66 SC (66)
17. 66 SC (66)
18. *SC 9, DEC* x 6 (60)
19. 60 SC (60)
20. *3 SC, INC* x 3, *9 SC, DEC* x 3 (60)
21. 60 SC (60)
22. *3 SC, DEC* x 6, 29 SC, SL ST (54)
Turn
23. 17 SC, SL ST (18) Turn
24. 54 SC (54)
25. *7 SC, DEC* x 6 (48)
26. *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48)
27. *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48)
28. *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48)
29. *7 SC, DEC* x 3, *6 SC, INC* x 3 (48)
30. *6 SC, DEC* x 6 (42)
31. 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 4 SC (16) turn
32. 4 SC, 3 DC, 2 SC, 3 DC, 28 SC (40)
33. 4 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 2 SC, DEC over the 3 DC, 10 SC, 14 DC, 5 SC, SL ST (41) turn
34. 6 SL ST, 14 DC (20) turn
35. SC 14 (14) turn
36. SC 14 (14) turn
37. SC 14 (14) turn
38. SC 14 (14) turn
39. SC 14 (14) turn
40. SC 14 (14) turn
41. SC 14 (14) F/O
1. MR 4 (4)
2. 4 SC (4)
3. 4 SC (4)
4. *INC, SC* x 2 (6)
5. *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8)
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6. *3 SC, INC* x 2 (10)
7. 10 SC (10)
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13. 14 SC (14)
14. 14 SC (14)
15. 14 SC (14)
16. 14 SC (14) F/O
Tongue - in pink
1. MR 6 (6)
2. INC in each stitch round (12)
3. *SC, INC* x 6 (18)
4. *2 SC, INC* x 6 (24)
5. 24 SC (24)
6. 24 SC (24)
7. 24 SC (24)
8. 24 SC (24)
9. 24 SC (24)
10. 24 SC (24)
Lips - in lemon
1. 5 SC, join last CH to first CH to make a circle of 5
CH (5) - work in rounds now, forming a tube
2. - 71. 5 SC (5) - this equals 350 SC in rounds
1. MR 6 (6)
2. *INC, SC* x 3 (9)
3. *INC, 2 SC* x 3 (12)
4. 12 SC (12)
5. 12 SC (12)
6. 12 SC (12)
7. *4 SC, DEC* x 2 (10)
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8. 10 SC (10)
9. 10 SC (10)
10. 10 SC (10)
11. 10 SC (10)
12. 10 SC (10)
13. *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8)
14. 8 SC (8)
15. 8 SC (8)
16. 8 SC (8)
17. *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6)
18. 6 SC (6)
19. 6 SC (6)
20. 6 SC (6)
21. 6 SC (6)
22. 6 SC (6)
23. *DEC, SC* x 2 (4)
24. 4 SC (4)
25. 4 SC (4)
26. 4 SC (4)
27. 4 SC (4)
28. 4 SC (4)
29. 4 SC (4)
30. DEC, DEC (2) F/O
Middle Facial Spike (Sides) - make two in dark teal (maroon for shiny)
1. MR 4 (4)
2. 4 SC (4)
3. 4 SC (4)
4. 4 SC (4)
5. *INC, SC* x 2 (6)
6. 6 SC (6)
7. 6 SC (6)
8. 6 SC (6)
9. *INC, 2 SC* x 2 (8)
10. 8 SC (8)
11. 8 SC (8)
12. 8 SC (8)
13. 8 SC (8)
14. 8 SC (8)
15. *INC, 3 SC* x 2 (10)
16. 10 SC (10)
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17. 10 SC (10)
18. 5 SC (5) turn
19. SC, DEC, 2 SC (4) turn
20. DEC, DEC (2)
1. CH 4, turn
2. 3 SC, first SC in 2nd CH from hook (3)
3. 3 SC (3)
4. DEC, SC (2)
5. DEC (1)
Side Head Fin - begin in blue (red for shiny) - make two
1. MR 3 (3)
2. 3 SC (3)
3. 3 SC (3)
4. 3 SC (3)
5. 3 SC (3)
6. 3 SC (3)
7. 3 SC (3)
8. 3 SC (3)
9. 3 SC (3)
10. 3 SC (3)
1. CH 11, turn
2. 9 DC, First DC in 3rd CH from hook counts as
first DC (9) turn
3. *2 DC, INC* x 3 (12)
4. *3 DC, INC* x 3 (15)
5. *4 DC, INC* x 3 (18)
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6. DC INC, 3 DC, 3 SC, 2 DC, DC INC, 2 DC, 2 SC, DC,
DC INC, 2 DC (21) turn
7. CH 3 (counts as first TC), 2 TC, 2 DC, SC, 2 SL ST, 2
DC, INC TC, 2 DC, 2 SL ST, 3 DC, 3 TC (22)
F/O
Next, sew the lips to the mouth. Take two teeth and
sew them to the top of the mouth on opposite sides.
Do not sew all the way through the lips.
Next, take side spikes A, B, and C. They will be sewn to
each side of the head. Spike A will be the top spike, B
in the middle, and C closest to the mouth, as shown
below.
The body:
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Underbelly and back- Complete the underbelly in
yellow, and the back in red or blue based on shiny or
regular gyarados.
1. CH 5 and turn
2. First SC in second CH from hook, 4 SC (4)
3. *INC, SC* x 2 (6)
4. *INC, SC* x 3 (9)
5. 9 SC (9)
6. 9 SC (9)
7. 9 SC (9)
8. *SC, DEC* x 3 (6)
9. *INC, SC* x 3 (9)
10. *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12)
11. 12 SC (12)
12. 12 SC (12)
13. 12 SC (12)
14. 12 SC (12)
15. *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9)
16. *SC, DEC* x 3 (6)
17. *SC, INC* x 3 (9)
18. *2 SC, INC* x3 (12)
19. 12 SC (12)
20. 12 SC (12)
21. 12 SC (12)
22. 12 SC (12)
23. *2 SC, DEC* x 3 (9)
24. *SC, DEC* x 3 (6)
25. *SC, INC* x 3 (9)
26. *2 SC, INC* x 3 (12)
27. *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15)
28. 15 SC (15)
29. 15 SC (15)
30. 15 SC (15)
31. 15 SC (15)
32. 15 SC (15)
33. 15 SC (15)
34. *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12)
35. *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15)
36. *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18)
37. 18 SC (18)
38. 18 SC (18)
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39. 18 SC (18)
40. 18 SC (18)
41. 18 SC (18)
42. 18 SC (18)
43. 18 SC (18)
44. 18 SC (18)
45. *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15)
46. *3 SC, DEC* x 3 (12) - Repeat lines 35 - 46
47. *3 SC, INC* x 3 (15)
48. *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18)
49. 18 SC (18)
50. 18 SC (18)
51. 18 SC (18)
52. 18 SC (18)
53. 18 SC (18)
54. 18 SC (18)
55. 18 SC (18)
56. 18 SC (18)
57. *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15)
58. *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18)
59. *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21)
60. 21 SC (21)
61. 21 SC (21)
62. 21 SC (21)
63. 21 SC (21)
64. 21 SC (21)
65. 21 SC (21)
66. 21 SC (21)
67. 21 SC (21)
68. 21 SC (21)
69. 21 SC (21)
70. *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18)
71. *4 SC, DEC* x 3 (15) - Repeat lines 58-71 four more times
72. *4 SC, INC* x 3 (18)
73. *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21)
74. 21 SC (21)
75. 21 SC (21)
76. 21 SC (21)
77. 21 SC (21)
78. 21 SC (21)
79. 21 SC (21)
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80. 21 SC (21)
81. 21 SC (21)
82. 21 SC (21)
83. 21 SC (21)
84. *5 SC, DEC* x 3 (18) F/O for the underbelly. Continue for the back.
85. 18 SC (18)
86. *5 SC, INC* x 3 (21)
87. *6 SC, INC* x 3 (24)
88. *7 SC, INC* x 3 (27)
89. *8 SC, INC* x 3 (30)
90. *9 SC, INC* x 3 (33)
91. *10 SC, INC* x 3 (36)
92. *11 SC, INC* x 3 (39)
93. *12 SC, INC* x 3 (42)
94. *13 SC, INC* x 3 (45)
95. *14 SC, INC* x 3 (48)
96. *15 SC, INC* x 3 (51)
97. 15 SC, DC INC, 8 DC, TC INC, TC, 7 DC, DC INC, 16 SC (54)
98. 17 SC, DC INC, 2 DC, 6 TC, TC INC, 7 TC, 2 DC, DC INC, 17 SC (57) F/O
Tail Fin Middle - in blue (red for shiny). Stuff as you go!
1. MR 6
2. *INC* x 6 (6)
3. *INC, SC* x 6 (18)
4. 18 SC (18)
5. 18 SC (18)
6. *DEC, SC* x 6 (12)
7. 12 SC (12)
8. 12 SC (12)
9. 12 SC (12)
10. 12 SC (12)
11. *DEC, 4 SC* x 2 (10)
12. 10 SC (10)
13. 10 SC (10)
14. *DEC, 3 SC* x 2 (8)
15. 8 SC (8)
16. 8 SC (8)
17. 8 SC (8)
18. *DEC, 2 SC* x 2 (6)
19. 6 SC (6)
20. 6 SC (6)
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21. *DEC, SC* x 2 (4)
22. 4 SC (4)
23. *DEC* x 2 (2) F/O
F/O
SC in red up a side of a white tail fin piece (as shown below). You will then attach it to the
larger part of the middle piece and SC 3-4 stitches to the other side. Then SC down the side
of the other fin.
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Then whip stitch the fins to the center
piece to create one tail.
1. MR 3
2. 3 SC (3)
3. 3 SC (3)
4. INC, SC (4)
5. *INC, SC* x 2 (6)
6. *2 SC, INC* x 2 (8) F/O
1. MR 3
2. 3 SC (3)
3. INC, 2 SC (4)
4. 4 SC (4)
5. *INC, SC* x 2 (6)
6. Join spikes with 34 SC (34)
7. DEC, 5 SC, DEC, 25 SC (32)
8. 32 SC (32) F/O
1. MR 3
2. 3 SC (3)
3. 3 SC (3)
4. INC, 2 SC (4)
5. 4 SC (4)
6. 4 SC (4) F/O
Begin with the back piece. You will be sewing all of the back spots to the back piece. Begin
at the tail. There will be two spots on each bump of the body. Place the spots at the
decrease of each bump right before the next. Use the photos for placement help if you need
it! You will place the spots about one stitch away from the edge. The smallest ones, back
spots C, will be placed on the first four bumps of the body. The next four bumps will have
back spots B, and the four bumps after that will have back spots A.
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Place the belly and back together with edge matching up starting at the tail. Whip stitch up
one edge. Next, you'll need to cut a piece of
clothesline wire twice the length of the body, and twist
the two ends together to form an oval.
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