CHAPTER 2

REVIEW AND RELATED LITERATURE AND RELATED STUDIES

This chapter presents related works by both domestic and foreign authors, researchers, developers,
and studies drawn from publications like books and articles as well as other sources like the internet, all of
which were important in developing the concept for the study. A wide range of literature and related studies
were read and carefully analyzed in order to develop a deeper understanding of this study.

RELATED LITERATURE

Organic Perfume

Pure aroma ingredients that are free of alcohol, pesticides, petrochemicals, dyes, solvents, and other
harmful substances make up organic perfume. Natural materials are always used to make organic perfume.
For an individual who is allergic to various synthetic chemical compounds, this perfume is ideal. Organic
fragrances are made from entirely natural ingredients without the use of chemicals. Due to increased consumer
awareness of its advantages, this product in the perfume industry has experienced the fastest growth (Yaghi et
al, 1990). Because it is hypoallergenic, this perfume is perfect for people with sensitive skin. Organic perfumes
aid in the prevention of skin issues like rashes, itching, itchiness, and discoloration. These perfumes also
function as organic skin care products.

Based on location, the organic perfume market can be broken down into North America, Europe, Asia
Pacific, the Middle East & Africa, and South America. Europe and the Middle East accounted for a sizeable
portion of the market in terms of demand due to the high awareness of using organic products and preference
for eco-friendly skincare products among the populations of these regions (Kaskel S, 2010). Additionally, the
Middle East region has a robust network of distribution channels that contribute to the growth of our already
sizable market. Asia Pacific is yet another significant market because of the region's significant trend of
perfume consumption. Furthermore, it controls a large portion of the fragrance market, increasing consumer
demand for organic fragrance. Since there are no chemicals in the products, there has been an increase in
demand for fragrances, which has led to an increase in the use of organic perfumes.

Rose

Any species of rose, which includes flowers and shrubs, is a member of the genus Rosa. Roses are
shrubs with pinnate leaves and frequently prickly stems that are primarily found in the northern hemisphere.
The large flowers in the wild have five petals that range in color from deep pink to white, or occasionally yellow.
The number of petals is significantly increased through cultivation and hybridization, which also improves the
floral scent. The pinnately compound, alternate leaves typically have oval, sharply toothed leaflets. While the
flowers of cultivated roses are frequently double, the flowers of wild roses typically have five petals. According
to a 2012 study by Britannica, rose flowers range in size from tiny miniatures with a diameter of 1.25 cm to
hybrid flowers with a diameter of more than 17.5 cm. Hips are the fleshy, occasionally edible, berry-like "fruit" of
the rose plant, and they typically range in color from red to orange.
 Roses have a genuine practical use in our health regimens, claims (SMEDA 2008, Pakistan). It helps to
reduce the redness brought on by enlarged capillaries because it has a tonic and astringent effect on the
capillaries just below the skin's surface. Additionally, the rose has a calming effect on the nervous system and
on emotional or psychological states of mind. It is regarded as an antidepressant and mild sedative. It is
increasingly used in the management of stress-related illnesses, including heart disease, peptic ulcers, and
nervous tension. There is evidence that rose essence may also benefit circulation, womb disorders, bile
secretion, digestion, and other bodily functions.

RELATED STUDIES

Foreign Studies

The study of S. Baudino et al. (2019) entitled “Rose floral scent” showed that the petals of a flower mainly
produce scent. On the other hand, stamens can also emit the smell in a volatile form or a compound that
vaporizes immediately. In the study mentioned, the researchers found that the enzyme responsible for the
scent of a flower, or “tea scent” to be specific, is monoterpenes. This is also stated as the principal constituent
of rose flowers responsible for this scent. This type of enzyme is achieved through various synthases.
Generally, terpenoid biosynthesis is achieved through terpene synthases. However, in this study, the result and
analysis have found that there is an independent pathway for the terpene synthase. In this pathway, the key
enzyme is RhNUDX1. In conclusion, concluded by the researchers, between the level of the RhNUDX1 gene
and the production of monoterpene geraniol was found to be the primary contributor and essential role in the
scent production of roses, including their petals.

The findings of M. Shohayeb et al. (2014) study entitled “Antibacterial and Antifungal Activity of Rosa
damascena MILL. Essential Oil, Different Extracts of Rose Petals” indicated that petal extracts could be used
locally for treatment of skin infections or as gargles for treatment throat infections. The method used in the
study that resulted in the findings was extraction and laboratory incubations. The researchers extracted the
rose petals using alcohol and dried them using a rotary vacuum evaporator at a specific degree of heat. After
that, bacteria used in the study came from the Department of Microbiology, College of Pharmacy, Taif
University, and were incubated. With this, antifungal activity was analyzed. And arriving with the results show
that it is harmless. Therefore, the study indicates that extracts from rose petals are gentle and beneficial and
can be used as an oil, cure, or perfume.

According to the study of Zhou et al. (2020) entitled “Studies on the volatile compounds in flower extracts
of Rosa odorata and R. Chinensis” mentioned that roses are culturally and economically essential plants that
are practically brought into the perfume industry. The roses’ petals and extracts provide a “tea scent” or “floral
scent” that is in demand. Through the methods used in the study, floral gene mining and floral improvement
breeding of the plants were provided and proven by the researchers that develop into new raw material for
plant essential oils, organic perfumes, and even medication, through such process and approach. Additionally,
the study provided information on which Rosa odorata, a unique rose specie in China, had a strong fragrance
and ample varieties, which played a role in forming modern roses’ scents.
 Under the study of A. Chisvert et al. (2018) entitled “Perfumes in Cosmetics: Regulatory Aspects and
Analytical Methods” stipulated that different fragrance chemicals and other chemicals present in perfumes or
colognes composition showed and proved that they could cause unpleasant side effects. This is why some
regularities limit the use and contents of some cosmetics, whether it is a fragrance or make-up. Furthermore,
the study disclosed that the International Fragrance Association and the Research Institute for Fragrance
Materials release reports on the benefit of not using certain fragrance chemicals in cosmetics, which is why in a
sense, organic or natural perfumes are at an advantage.

Local study

A study by R. V. Ramirez et al. (2015) entitled "Cologne brand preferences of teenagers in the
Philippines: managerial implications" showed that most female teenagers' most rank fragrance preference is
floral. The second rank fragrance is oriental, while the third is aquatic. The study arrived at this result or data
through a survey performed by the respective researchers. Teens of different gender are asked to participate
and share their most preferred fragrance, brand, and bottle in terms of colognes or perfumes. In addition, the
results also showed that aside from the fragrance, consumers also consider the affordability of the perfumes or
colognes. Fragrance or scent is the first criterion for consumers, especially teens buying perfumes and
colognes.

Conceptual Framework

The figure below represents the conceptual framework of the study. The researcher utilized the Input,
Output, Process (IPO) model to show organic perfume to be created and compared it to the synthetic perfume
available in the market.

The researcher, as the input, used some processes to arrive at their expected output. They began with
making the prototype through preparation of the materials such as the roses, aloe vera, bottle, and ethyl
alcohol. After that, procedures using the prepared tools and materials are done by the researcher. In addition,
to come up with an accurate data and investigation concerning the organic perfume, the research provided a
synthetic perfume available in the market to compare with the organic perfume made.

Furthermore, this framework assisted the researcher in creating the prototype for the experimental study.
Figure 1. Research Paradigm