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DIFFERENT TYPES OF WOOD JOINTS

1. Butt Joints

The end of a timber board is called the “butt.”


Woodworkers forming this joint are placing two ends
together at a right angle to create a corner.
Mechanical fasteners such as nails or screws are
necessary to preserve this joinery.

You see this technique used most often when


building wall or attic framing. Some picture frames, decking, and sandboxes also use it.
You can see that butt-joint is used everywhere in my DIY wooden birdhouse tutorial.

2. Mitered Butt Joint (Miter Joint)

This joinery option connects two butts that get


cut at an angle. The advantage of using this
approach involves the strength of the corner. You
receive a seamless look that does not show any end
grain.

Since the miter joint has minimal strength, it is


typically used for trim and molding purposes. Depending on the purpose, you may need
to strengthen the miter joint by adding nails. A classic example of mitered butt joinery is
the wooden picture frames.

3. Half-Lap Joint

Woodworkers use this joint to join two boards


together to create a flush surface. It happens most
often when a connection is needed in the middle of
the timber, although corner connections are also
possible.

4. Cross-lap Joinery
If the joint forms in the middle of both boards, it is called a cross lap joint instead.
You see this woodworking joint used for framing and cabinetry quite often. A birdsmouth
joint is a common variation used when the connection must be at an angle.

5. Pocket-hole Joint

Pocket-hole joinery is where a basic butt joint


is fastened using screws that are at an angle. It
requires the woodworkers to drill a pilot hole between
the two boards. The two pieces get connected with a
screw to create a durable, flat surface for the wood.

Usually, the holes are drilled at a 15-degree


angle. Since the hole for the screw must get pre-
drilled, measurement accuracy is critical to this technique’s success. The best way to
accurately do this by using a pocket-hole jig to drill the holes.

Cabinet doors and face frames often use this technique. Pocket joint is also
sometimes found in door jambs and residential archways.

6. Tongue and Groove Joint

Carpenters join two flat boards together to


create a larger wooden panel using this option. One
has a long edge carved at the edge, while the other
has a groove cut in to receive the board extension. It
can stay secure glue or fasteners for flooring,
furniture, and similar applications.

All high-traffic flat surfaces benefit from the use of tongue and groove joinery.
Tongue and groove joinery can also be used to form square joints. In this case, the
groove is cut into the surface of the board and the tongue is milled on the edge.

7. Dado Joint

The dado joinery method is like a tongue and


groove joint. The only difference is that the dado is cut
across the woodgrain whereas a groove is cut in the
grain direction which is usually along the length of the board. Moreover, there is no
tongue carved on the edges, instead, the groove is cut wider to accept the thickness of
the mating piece.

Furniture makers and woodworkers typically use it for plywood, fiberboard, or


other pressed products. Builder’s grade cabinets often use this technique to create a
resilient product.

8. Biscuit Joint

Woodworkers use this technique to create a


more robust version of the butt joint using tongue and
groove principles. Both ends of the timber get a slot
cut into them to hold a small wafer that acts as a
connection. When the glue gets added to the insert, it
starts swelling until the entire carved-out area gets
filled.

Most tabletops and wooden counters use the biscuit joinery method to create a
more reliable joint suitable for daily use. You can use the woodworking tool called
biscuit joiner or plate joiner to make this type of edge joints accurately. A dowel joint is a
modification of this option. In dowel joints, instead of biscuit slots, you will drill holes and
put wooden pins along with glue blocks.

9. Mortise and Tenon Joint

This woodworking joint was one of the first


methods invented for construction. Mortise and Tenon
joinery continues to be one of the strongest wood
joints to use for framing and building. The technique is
like the tongue and groove method except that a large
square and receptacle form seamless joinery.

It requires precise measuring and craftsmanship to complete. Still, the technique


also serves as one of the most beautiful connection methods we use. The joint typically
requires a 90-degree connection to be useful. This type of wood joint is often used in
furniture making and crafts. Your table legs are most probably joined by a stopped
mortise and tenon joint and the chair legs are often attached with the help of angle
mortise.

10. Rabbet Joint


Woodworkers form this joint by forming a
recess into the edge of the timber. It looks like the
protruding edge from a tongue and groove joint,
except it only has one side cut from it instead of two.
While the rabbet joinery is a simple wood joint, it is
much stronger than the butt joint.

This technique allows a flat piece, such as the back of a cabinet, to sit flush with
both sides for a seamless finish. A variation of this joint is the dado rabbet joint. You
also see this joint used in windowsills and doors when glass inserts must sit within a
frame.

11. Dovetail Joint

Woodworkers use this option to add strength to


a corner. It uses interlock joinery of a series of pins
and tails to create a resilient edge that can be used for
furniture, cabinetry, and framing.

Hand techniques and machining are useful


ways to develop it. However, the craftsmanship
required does need more time than other joinery options.

12. Half-Blind Dovetail

Most drawers use this joint design because it


features a trapezoid design for the pins that fit together
at the end of the timber. Woodworkers use it to avoid
having the connection visible from the front of the
piece without compromising their work’s strength.

This is one of those wood joints that require the hand of a skilled woodworker.
But the result is a beautiful, strong joint that is well worth the extra efforts.
13. Sliding Dovetail Joint

Yet another variation of dovetail joinery is the


sliding dovetail joint, which works like a tongue and
groove while using the dovetail technique. As you can
see in the image, here the dovetail slot is machined in the face of the board while the
pin profile is cut at the end of the matching piece.

14. Box Joint

This joint works at the end of two timber pieces


to build a seamless right angle. You carve out a series
of symmetrical slots to form rectangular projections
called fingers. Once you glue the connection, the
fingers get inserted to create a permanent bond that
results in a solid corner.

Box joinery is an effective alternative to dovetail joints. The dovetail joinery works
best on hardwood, and it requires a complex machining process. On the other hand,
box joinery is easy to create and works on most types of wood including plywood. You
can easily cut the fingers of the box joint on a table saw with a set of dado blades.

15. Bridle Joint

This approach uses a modified version of the


mortise and tenon joint. Instead of cutting a square
piece to form a corner, woodworkers create a lengthy
edge that fits into a grooved receptacle. It creates a
right angle through this connection with three
adequate surfaces that hold adhesive for added
strength.

When you add rails to the modern bed frame with a headboard and footboard,
the most common connection is a bridle joint. You can find several variations of this
technique including t-bridle, mitered bridle, and double bridle joints which is commonly
used in canvas stretcher bars.

16. Finger Joints

This type of wood joinery technique is mainly


used to join two pieces of wood to make a longer
board. A lengthening joint usually has a larger gluing
surface between the joined pieces.
First, you must cut fingers like a box joint, but deeper. In the case of a box joint,
you join two pieces of wood at 90 degrees to achieve a solid corner. Here you lay the
mating wood pieces flat and assemble them with a thin layer of wood glue between the
fingers.

Reference:

https://www.finepowertools.com/woodworking/wood-joint-types/

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