THE VENUS TOP

A Crochet Pattern
 Starting Note
HELLO THERE :)

Thank you so much for purchasing this pattern for "The Venus Top".
This pattern includes a graded sizing chart as well as instructions
to make a top that fits your body individually and perfectly :). This
means you can make one for your yourself or for a friend easily.
Lizard&Hook is a small business owned and ran by me, Lizzie, so
please do not use this pattern for the purpose of wholesale making
or selling (you may use it to sell pieces as a fellow small business
or individual though as long as you credit me as the designer and
creator of the pattern, get that bag!)

As per usual, I will use ch3 to start rows of trc, ch2 to start rows of
dc, ch2 to start rows of hdc, ch2 to start rows of sc, and ch1 to
start rows of slsts. You can ch however many you feel comfortable
with as I know everyone has a preference, your top will turn out just
as pretty, don't worry!

If you are unsure of your sizing I would always reccomend to SIZE

DOWN as crochet stretches out over time and wear.

There is a summary of each row in brackets, in bold, at the end of

each point so it is easy to look back at once you have started to
crochet.

Just remember, handmade clothing comes with the occasional

missed ch, miscount or imperfection, but really this is what makes
it unique and perfect in it's own right!

I hope you end up with something

special that you love, see you for
the next one!

LOTS OF LOVE, LIZZIE X

2.
 The Venus Top
Contents
04 Abbreviations

04 You will Need

05 Styles

06 Sizing & Gauge

07 How to: Front Post Puff Stitch

08 Pentagon

10 Square

12 Attachment and Edging

13 Backing (optional)

14 Straps

15 Finished Top

3.
 Abbreviations
(US terminologies used)
St(s) Stitch(es)

Slst Slip stitch

Trc Triple Crochet

Dc Double Crochet

Hdc Half Double Crochet

Sc Single Crochet

Pfst Puff Stitch

Chsp Chain Space

Eq of. Equivalent of

Yo Yarn over

Cor. Corner

(I used ch1 to start a slst row, ch2 to start rows of sc, hdc and dc, and ch3 to start rows of trc.)

You Will Need

CROCHET LEVEL:
ADVANCED BEGINNER/INTERMEDIATE +
Make: 6 Pentagons, 5 Squares, 2-4 Straps (+ optional ribbed backing)
A 3.5mm Hook
Bamboo/Cotton yarn (any yarn for a 3.5mm/4.5mm hook) 200- 300g for
sizes XS-XL
Scissors
(Darning Needle for sewing in ends – optional)
Measuring Tape

4.
 Styles
This pattern includes two different styles for the back of the top. Choose
whichever one you feel most comfortable with! There are always other
options not officially written up in the pattern: extend the straps that go
around the neck so that they cross on the back and you only have one
strap. Or extent the waistline by doubling the rows on the bottom or to
create a skirt out of squares to attach as a dress! The possibilities are
endless and I hope that you find a style which suits you :)

1. Corset style tie up back

2. Stretchy Ribbed Back

5.
 Sizing
(Pent = Pentagon & Sq = Square)

XS - Pent= 4 rows + sc edge. Sq = 3 rows + sc edge

S - Pent = 4 rows + hdc edge. Sq = 3 rows+ hdc edge

M - Pent = 5 rows +sc edge. Sq= 4 rows + sc edge (cor. 1sc, ch2, 1sc)

L - Pent = 5 rows + hdc edge. Sq = 4 rows + hdc edge (cor. 1sc, ch2, 1sc)

XL - Pent = 6 rows + sc edge (2sc, ch1, 2sc). Sq = 5 rows + sc edge (cor. 2sc, ch2, 2sc)

XXL - Pent = 6 rows + hdc edge ( 2sc, ch1, 2sc). Sq = 5 rows + hdc edge (cor. 2sc, ch2, 2sc)

For the perfect fit the side corners of your

penatgons, positioned on the lower section of your
cup, should be equal to the width of your breast,
from one side, across the front, to the other e.g mine
is 20cm/8 inches wide. Minus the last hdc row my
cups = 20cm/8icnhes across
You will need to make 2 pentagons that are half of
8inches
this number wide, so that when you crochet them
together they cover your breast totally.

Gauge and
Swatch
Please make sure your gauge
swatch matches mine after your
3rd row. If it does not match up to
hook/yarn size please follow the
sizing guide to match your
individual sizing.
Across Square = 2.5 inches Across Pentagon = 3 inches

6.
 How To: Front
Post Puff St
For this pattern this front post puff
stitch is the only puff stitch we will be
using. It will be refered to as a "pfst"
throughout this pattern

Ch2 to start the row. yo and insert your

hook behind the st below (the ch2 and
first st count as 1st), pull it up to the height
of a dc. This is a front post pfst (puff
stitch)

do 2 more front post pfsts (eq.of 3 pfsts

so far), yo pull through all but the last loop
on your hook. This will create a loop with a
loop left over from before. Yo again and
pull through the last two loops.

(for this pattern we will be using this st a

lot, it will become automatic how high you
pull the yarn everytime)

(ch2, yo, front puff pull up 3times, yo

pull through and leave 1 loop, yo pull
through last 2)

7.
 Pentagon Foundation Foundation

(If you prefer to use the magic circle

technique to start your round please do!)

Foundation Ch. Create a slip knot and ch4,

slst into the first ch to create a small circle.
(ch4, slst = circle)
Row 1. Row 1.

Row 1. Ch2 (does not count as a st), 15dc

into the circle. Slst into the top of the first dc
to close the circle.
(ch2 + 15dc)

Row 2. Ch2 to start the row. Yo and crochet

a front post pfst (as shown in index). Place 3
dc into the next st, all 3 in one st below. Row 2. Row 2.

Crochet a front post pfst into the next st.

Ch3 and crochet a front post pfst into the
next st. 3dc into the next st, front post pfst
into the next st. Ch3. Continue this pattern
until you have completed the row. For the
last ch, ch2 instead of 3 and slst into the top
of the first puff st. Row 2. Row 2.
You will have 10 puff sts in your piece at this
point. You will see the pentagon beginning
forming already.
(pfst, 3dc into 1st, pfst, ch3, pfst, 3dc into
1st, pfst etc.)

If you are are using multiple colours, you

Row 2. Row 2.
can choose to change your colour here,
as you start row 3, or as you start row 4,
depending on your colour preference
and how big you want the central flower
to be.

8.
 Row 3. Looking at your piece, you should
Row 3. Row 3.
have 5sts in between each chsp section at
the side. Ch2 (eq. of 1dc), 1dc into the next
st, front post puff st into the middle (3rd) st,
1dc into each of the next to 2sts.
Into the chsp, place 2dc, ch2, 2dc.
1dc, 1dc, 1 front post puff st, 1dc, 1dc.
2dc, ch2, 2dc
Row 3. Row 4.
Repeat this pattern on each side and chsp
corners of your piece until you reach the
end. slst into the top of the ch 2 from the
beginning of the row. If you are changing
colours, cut your yarn and pull through to
fasten here.
(2dc into chsp, 2dc into 2sts, 1pfst, 2dc
into 2sts, 2dc into chsp, ch2, 2dc into Row 4. Row 4.

chsp)
Row 4. Work only into the back two loops of
the st (except for the front post pfst). Ch2
to start the row (eq. of 1dc). Place a dc into
every (back) st, when you reach a pffst from
the row below place a puff st into the st
above. At the corners place 1dc, ch2, 1dc to Row 4. Row 5.
create a corner that lays flat when finished.
(4dc, 1pfst, 4dc, 1dc, ch2, 1dc, 4dc etc)

At this point the pentagon pattern will

change depending on size

Row 5. For a size small (which we will be following this pattern), hdc in the back sts
only to create this framed effect. At the chsp corners place 1hdc, ch2, 1hdc. For other
sizes please refer back to the sizing chart on page 6.
(Hdc row. Corners = 1hdc, ch2, 1hdc)

Any extra rows with a pfst in (Size M+) will follow the same pattern as row 4 with an
increase in st count).

9.
 Square Foundation Foundation

MAKE: 5 Squares for the bustline

(You can mix and match your three

chosen colours to create a different look!
For this top I made two colourways
alternating along the bust, 2 changing Row 1. Row 2.

the colour way at row 3 and 3 chaning at

row 4.

Foundation Ch. Create a slip st and ch4, slst

into the first ch to create a small circle.
(ch4 +slst = circle)
Row 2. Row 2.
Row 1. Ch2 (does not count as a st), 12dc
into the circle. Slst into the top of the first dc
to close the circle.
(12dc + slst)

Row 2. Ch2 to start the row (doesn't count as

ast). Yo and crochet a front post puff st (as
Row 2. Row 2.
shown in index). Place 3 dc into the next st,
all 3 in one st below. Crochet a front post
puff st into the next st. Ch3 and crochet a
front post puff st into the next st. 3dc into the
next st, front post puff st into the next st.
Ch3. Continue this pattern until you have
completed the row. For the last ch, ch2
Row 2. Row 2.
instead of 3 and slst into the top of the first
puff st. You will have 8 puff sts in your piece
at this point. You will see the square
beginning forming already.
(pfst, 3dc into 1stitch, pfst, ch3, pfst, 3dc
into 1stitch, pfst etc.)

10.
 Row 3. Looking at your piece, you should
Row 3. Row 3.
have 5 sts in between each ch section at the
side. Ch2 (eq. of 1dc), 1dc into the next st,
front post puff st into the middle (3rd) st, 1dc
into each of the next to 2sts.
Into the chsp place 2dc, ch2, 2dc.
1dc, 1dc, 1 front post puff st, 1dc, 1dc.
2dc, ch2, 2dc
Repeat this pattern on each side and chsp Row 3.
corners of your piece until you reach the
end. slst into the top of the ch 2 from the
beginning of the row.
(2dc into chsp, 2dc into 2sts, 1pfst, 2dc
into 2sts, 2dc into chsp, ch2, 2dc into
chsp)

Row 4. Working only into the back two

loops, (For the next row I changed colours
but you can just continue without changing
colour if you prefer) Row 4. Row 4.

Ch2 to start the row (eq. of 1dc). Place a dc

into every st, when you reach a pffst from
the row below place a puff st into the st
above. At the corners place 2dc, ch2, 2dc
to create a corner that lays flat when
finished. Row 4. Row 4.

(4dc, 1front post pffst, 4dc, 2dc, ch2, 2dc,

4dc etc)

For the square we will be crocheting one

less row than the pentagon, this is so that
the edges match up to have the same
number of sts to attach together easily.

11.
 Attachment & Edging
(If you would like a longer top you can add another row of squares to the
bustline so it is 2 squares deep)

Arrangement
The cups on this top will be made up of three
pentagons, meeting in the middle. Attaching the cups
together will create a slight curve to your cups, the
larger the cup the more curved it becomes, making it
fit your bust better as the sizing changes.

Attachment
Attach each square one at a time. Create a slipknot
and with the right sides facing together pull your yarn
through both corners. Ch1 and slip st into the back sts
only to attach the squares together.
Repeat this same process along the pentagons.
Attach the pentagon cups to the row of squares,
leaving the middle square free of attachment.

Edging (slsting)
Attaching at the corners, slst your squares together for
the bustline.
Starting at you topright coner, with your top facing
towards you, attach your yarn, ch1 (eq of. a slst) and
slst into every st around your piece to edge.
To attach at the center, place 2sc into the opposite
corner penatgon to secure (you can do this more times
if you want more stability). Refer to sizing chart for
alternative corner counts for your sizing if necessary!
Top corners: 1slst, ch1, 1slst
Side corners: 1slst into chsp
Bottom corners: 1slst, ch1, 1slst
(For extra stability you can edge the triangle in the
middle too!)
12.
 Backing (Optional)
Option 1. Lace up corset style back

Cut 12 strands of yarn at around 305 cm/120 inches

each (6 for each side). Into the bottom chsp corner of
each side, yo and pull through 6 strands on each corner.
Making sure the ends line up so that the yarn is equal
and in half, create a knot at the base of your yarn to
hold it in place. Braid your yarn. knot off at the end
and cut the yarn with a 2 inch tassel. Lace your yarn by
criss-crossing your braids and inserting them through
chsps on the opposite sides of your top.
(Braid straps and thread through chsp for backing)

Option 2. Sc Ribbed Backing

(Place a st marker into the st that marks the first of the
pentagon (about midway on the side of your top). You
should have a multiple of 4 sts, so if you need to move
your marker back or forth a st or two to make the maths
work do that, your results will be the same!)

Attach your yarn into the bottom corner of your top, with
the front facing upwards.
Trc into every st until you reach the st marker.
Dc into the next 4sts, hdc into the next 4sts, sc into the
next 4sts, slst into the next 4sts.
This count may vary depending on size, some other
common counts are: 3dc, 3hdc, 3sc, 3slst or 5dc,
5hdc, 5sc, 5slst
The total measurement of your top around the bust
should be the same as your waist measurement. Over
time crochet naturally stretches with wear so this will
ensure it lasts wear after wear. e.g my waist is 24
inches, my top measures at 24 inches around the bust 12 inches x 2 sides = 24 inches
with LOTS of stretch to get it over my head.
13.
 Straps
Cut 12 pieces of yarn at approximately
200cm long. (the length will shorten once
you start to knot and braid, and once it's
folded in half)

Yarn and pull through 3 strands into each of

the four corners of the top of the cups. (3 x 4
= 12)

Make sure that your yarn is equal and in half

when folded (All yarn strands should end
around the same place).
s
Knot each yarn grouping at its base. che
In
2

Each section will now have 6 strands (since

we doubled it when we folded the yarn and
knotted). Braid each section for
approximately 5cm/2 inches.

Knot the two sections together on each side,

making sure to knot in the same place on
each side so it looks equal.

You will now have 2 sections left with 12

strands in each.

Braid both straps and tie a knot at the end (in

the same place on both sides so they are
equal in length). cut the ends with about
5cm/2 inches for the tassel

2 Inches

14.
Congratulations
you have finished
your top!

Don't forget to weave in your ends :)