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HAIR GROWTH L AB

LUXURY HAIRCARE
FORMULATION GUIDE
TREATMENTS FOR BE T TER HAIR

1
Hair Growth Lab Disclaimer

The copyrights and all other


intellectual property rights in materials
contained in this guide are
owned by Holinic LLC (creators of Hair
Growth Lab). Under the Copyright
Act 1968, or any other applicable law
in your location, you may not publish
or distribute copies of any materials
contained from this document
(including, but not limited to text,
logos, graphics, photographs, video
clips, trade marks, garment graphics,
sounds or images) in any form.

The information provided as part


of the Hair Growth Lab program
including supplemental guides and
books are for general information
only and are not intended to be a
substitute for professional advice,
diagnosis or treatment.

This guide provides general


information on how to formulate your
own hair care products; it does not
and cannot provide safety information
specific to any particular raw material
or final product, it is not intended
to be comprehensive or complete,
and it should not be relied upon to
ensure safe and appropriate use of
any particular product or chemical.
Please follow the specific instructions
and product labeling provided by the
product manufacturer and keep all raw
materials away from children.

By using the information available in


this guide you are agreeing to accept
full responsibility for your decisions.
Holinic LLC, its agents, employees,
contractors, and any affiliated
companies will not be responsible or
liable for any harm or damage to you
or your property as a result of the
information provided in this guide.

•••
Copyright © Hair Growth Lab by Holinic 2020

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HAIR GROWTH L AB
LUXURY HAIRCARE
FORMULATION GUIDE
TREATMENTS FOR BETTER HAIR

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4
H A IR GROW T H L A B

TABLE OF CONTENTS

32
7 HOW TO STORE YOUR
ABOUT THIS GUIDE RAW MATERIALS

9 36
QUICK NOTES THE ECONOMICS OF DIY HAIRCARE

12 40
WHY FORMUL ATE SUBSTITUTE INGREDIENTS
YOUR OWN PRODUCTS?
43
14 SHAMPOO FORMUL ATIONS
INGREDIENTS AND ITEMS TO
ALWAYS HAVE AT HOME 87
CONDITIONER & MASQUE
20 FORMUL ATIONS
STORING YOUR FORMUL ATIONS
113
22 PROTEIN TREATMENT
THE IDEAL DISPENSERS FOR FORMUL ATIONS
YOUR FORMUL ATIONS
139
26 DE TANGLER
HOW TO MAKE DIY HAIRCARE FORMUL ATIONS
L AST LONGER
153
SEAL ANTS, OILS AND LEAVE-IN
30 TREATMENT FORMUL ATIONS
HOW TO MAKE
YOUR OWN E X TRACTS 173
SCALP TREATMENT FORMUL ATIONS

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ABOUT THIS GUIDE

The hair you’ve always wanted is already within you and the motivation you need
to achieve it is overflowing! All that’s missing now are the right tools, methods and
formulations that will take your hair to the next level. I’ve spent most of my adult
life meticulously collecting these methods. In recent years, I took those methods
a step further, perfecting them with testing and guidance from certified chemists
and biochemists. These methods and formulations have served me well, and I
hope they go on to transform your hair as much as they have transformed mine.

This guide is best used in conjunction with the Hair Growth Lab Program, but may also
work on it’s own. The most effective results will be seen after you tweak the recipes
and use the right combination, ratios and amounts of certain ingredients for your hair
profile. In order to do this, it’s recommended to complete a hair profile assessment
and understand the implications of your unique situation. With testing and tweaking,
you’ll eventually have a fully customised routine made for your unique hair situation.
You’ve got a long journey ahead, but I promise it’s a lot of fun!

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Some

QUICK NOTES

Most recipes in this guide are designed to yield one metric


kilogram (1KG) or one metric litre (1L) of product. Should you
wish you make less of each product, you may divide the recipe
to yield the amount you wish to make. Some recipes will yield
less product due to how infrequently it’s used over a given
period of time. If you happen to use these particular products
often, you may multiply the recipes to make larger batches.

As you learn which formulations work for your hair, and as you
tweak them to perfection, it is highly recommended to make
your products in large batches. This brings down the cost of each
product and saves you time over the long-term. This guide will
also cover preservation and storage in the following pages. This
will allow you to safely keep your products for up to 12 months.

When preparing your ingredients, please keep in mind that


volume and density of a liquid can change with temperature unlike
weight. You can try this at home by comparing 50g of melted
coconut oil to 50g of solid coconut oil to see the difference.

For this reason, we may sometimes display measurements in weight


as oppose to volume. We state the volume (L or ML) whenever
reasonable and only opt for weight (G or KG) when needed.

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WHY FORMULATE YOUR OWN PRODUCTS?


A DIFFERENT PERSPECTIVE

In a world where convenience is king, it’s becoming less and less common for
people to make their own stuff. People are cooking less and less. They’re ordering
take out more and more. All our daily needs can be ordered straight to our doors.
out of shampoo? Just hop on Amazon, press a few buttons and... BAM, you have shampoo
at your door in less than 24 hours.

In a world where you can have everything at the press of a button, it’s hard to imagine why
some would choose to make their own haircare. If you got hold of this formulations guide,
then I’m guessing you’ve already decided that making your own products is the right thing
to do.

If you’re here but you’re not fully convinced yet, let me share a few key reasons why making
your own hair care matters more than ever in this day and age.

Reclaiming Control

Any coffee lovers here? If you are one, I bet you have a preference for how you like your
beans roasted. Maybe you even have a type of roast from a specific region. Maybe you like
having your coffee with only a dash of a certain kind of milk. If you were to buy a coffee off
the shelf, chances are it’s not made exactly how you would like it. It might have too much
milk, the roast isn’t made the way you like it. The coffee jjujst doesn’t satisfy you in the
same way as your favourite coffee.

It’s the same with haircare. If you opt for store-bought products, you have no control over
how the product is made. It can never perfectly fit your personal preferences. There is
always a little too much or this or too little of that. That’s why it’s so hard to find the perfect
product for you. The only way to have your ideal product is by making it yourself and
tweaking it until it gives you the results you want. Just like your morning coffee at home.

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Zero-Waste, Toxic-Free and Free From Allergens

Are you allergic to certain preservatives? Do you know of certain ingredients


that make your scalp itchy? Do you wish your favourite shampoo wasn’t stored
in wasteful plastic packaging? Do you wish your favourite hair mask didn’t have
so much silicone? The beautiful thing about DIY haircare is that you don’t need to
compromise. You get to make it exactly the way you like it. You can leave out any
ingredient you don’t agree with or replace it with a substitute that aligns with your
values and your hair.

Prioritise Harm Reduction Over Cosmetic Elegance

Most store-bought products are filled with ingredients that make the product more
pleasant to use. Those ingredients help to give products a better consistency or
make it smell like flowers. Unfortunately, these pleasant features come at a cost.

For example, Sodium Chloride is your common table salt. It’s widely used in
haircare to thicken up shampoos and conditioners. Unfortunately, salt is terribly
drying for your hair. Additionally, synthetic fragrance makes your product smell
nice but it’s incredibly drying and potentially irritating if you have a sensitive scalp.
When you make your own products, YOU get to choose if those characteristics
are worth sacrificing the health of your strands over.

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Don’t Skimp on Quality

In order to be profitable, many hair care manufacturers opt for cheap and
synthetic ingredients. It makes products more affordable but you end up paying
for it with your hair. Aloe vera is an incredible ingredient for hair care. However,
manufacturers will use synthetic gels and liquids that act like aloe vera. But they
come with side effects that aloe vera simply wouldn’t have. If you decide to make
your own products, you have full control over the quality of the ingredients. You
can choose to use fresh ingredients and natural essential oils rather than toxic
and synthetic lab-made compounds.

Save The Environment, Save Your Hair

DIY haircare is definitely not as convenient as buying off the shelf. But making your
products at home are definitely convenient for your hair and the environment.
From the points above, it’s clear that mass-produced haircare is simply not good
for you or the planet. Your hair and the world will benefit if you incorporate more
DIY haircare in your routine. It requires extra time and effort, but it will certainly
pay off the longer you commit to it. You’ll save the environment and you’ll save
your hair.

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INGREDIENTS AND ITEMS TO ALWAYS HAVE AT HOME

As you embark on your haircare formulation journey, you’ll need to make sure you
always have your toolkit ready. Let me run you through some items you should always
have on hand when making your own product at home.

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pH Testing Strips

The pH level is the make or break of any DIY product (or store bought product,
really). The products you formulate need to be within a specific pH range in order
to be effective and safe for your hair.

All scalp products require a pH of 4.50-5.50 for optimal scalp health. If the pH of
your scalp products is not alkaline enough (that means it’s less than 4.50), it won’t
be able to kill the bacteria on your scalp. This is especially important if you make
shampoo. If the pH is too alkaline, then it will cause damage to your scalp and lead
to other issues such as excess oiliness and hair loss.

Products that are applied to your strands will require a different pH level. For
optimal hair health, your products will require a pH of 3.00 - 3.50. If the pH is too
high (that means it’s more than 3.50), damage starts to occur on the hair shaft and
your hair loses it’s ability to hold moisture and becomes very dry. If it’s too low, the
cuticle will close too tightly, restricting moisture from entering or leaving the shaft.

To ensure your homemade products are in the correct pH range for your scalp
(4.50-5.50) and your hair (3.00 - 3.50), you should always have a packet of pH
strips at hand when making your own haircare. They are only a few dollars for a
100 strips, so it’s a very worthwhile investment!

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Lactic Acid

If you struggle with super frizzy hair, make sure to always have a little bottle of lactic
acid in your toolkit. Lactic acid helps relax and smooth down the cuticles of the
hair, helping seal in moisture while making hair more manageable and less frizzy.

You can add it to your homemade and even your store bought hair masks. For
a hair mask, use no more than 5 drops of a 10% lactic acid formulation or 2
tablespoons of yoghurt if you prefer to go natural.

Lemon

Lemon contains citric acid which has a pH level between 2 and 3. This makes it a
great natural ingredient to bring down the pH level of your formulations. Whenever
your product is too alkaline, add a few drops of lemon juice to balance it out.

Aloe Vera Gel

Aloe vera is a must in every DIY haircare toolkit. It’s very affordable and serves as
humectant, lubricant and a pH balancing agent. It also helps improve the texture
of your DIY products. Fresh aloe vera is best, however, it’s always good to keep a
tub as well as a fresh plant at home.

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BTMS-25 (Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetearyl Alcohol)

BTMS is an emulsifier that is naturally obtained from grapeseed oil. It gives your
formulations a beautiful consistency. It’s an effective aid for detangling your hair and still
light enough to use in leave-in conditioners. The number ‘25’ refers to the percentage
of the conditioning agent Behentrimonium Methosulfate. It can be 25 or 50. You can
experiment with both kinds, the higher the number the lower the percentage of Cetearyl
Alcohol which is a fatty alcohol (i.e. not harmful for your hair) that helps moisturize
dry hair. The final product might also turn out thinner but that shouldn’t impact its
effectiveness.

Essential oils

If you like to have lovely smelling products, be sure to keep a few bottles of your favourite
essential oils at home. Please note that products with essential oils should not come in
contact with the scalp due to risk of irritation. If you want to go completely fragrance
free, then you don’t have to worry about this step.

The Right Oil for Your Porosity Level

The more effective formulations will be the ones that contain the right ingredients for
your hair profile. Porosity is an important factor to keep note of and you should use an
oils with the right fatty acid composition for your hair’s porosity level. You can learn all
about which oils are for you in the Hair Growth Lab program.

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Panthenol

Panthenol is a great all around ingredient for haircare formulations. It’s a


humectant, a moisturizer and an emollient. It is also extremely water soluble,
alcohol soluble, mildly soluble in glycerin and is fairly easily capable of being mixed
into most oils. It also has skin protecting and anti-inflammatory properties. For
this reason, Panthenol is used in most formulations and requires a permanent
spot in your toolkit.

Wheat Protein

The more effective formulations will be the ones that contain the right ingredients
If you have high porosity hair, adding hydrolyzed wheat protein to your products
is a quick and easy way to fill up your porous strands and give it more structure
and moisture retention properties. If you have low porosity hair, then you can skip
this ingredient.

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STORING YOUR FORMULATIONS

Different formulations will require different storage


containers. This section will run you through the best
materials to use to store your uniquely made haircare
formulations.

Most containers are made from plastic or glass. Although


plastic containers are more affordable, their downsides
heavily outweigh their benefits. Plastic bottles can’t be
effectively sterilised, which means you will need to buy new
containers every time you make a new product. They are
also not biodegradable and harmful to the environment. This
makes them convenient and affordable in the short-term, but
the cost adds up for both your wallet and the environment
in the long-term.

So it is recommended that you use glass containers to store


all your haircare formulations.

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Clear Glass Containers

These are the most readily available glass containers and are
the most affordable too. However, they do not block out UV
rays which means the product stored inside is at risk of speedy
oxidation. If you choose to use clear glass, please make sure to
be super vigilant with keeping your products in a dark place and
out of the sunlight.

Dark / Brown Glass Bottles

Brown glass is generally a better choice than clear glass. They’re


affordable and hide the contents of the formulations while
blocking out some UV. Dark brown is considered most effective,
followed by blue.

Ultraviolet Glass

Ultraviolet Glass bottles are becoming a more and more popular


choice for natural skincare and haircare. They block out all UV rays
and ensure your product stays fresh for longer. They are, however,
the most expensive option of the three types of glass bottles.

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THE IDEAL DISPENSERS FOR YOUR FORMULATIONS

To make your homemade hair care as enjoyable as possible,


it’s best to store your products in dispensers that are
compatible with the product. This table shows which type
of dispensers are best for certain types of products.

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Straight Sided Jars for hair masks, sealants, dry


shampoo and gels

Sprayer Mist Bottle for scalp toners, UV sprays

Dropper Bottle for scalp serums, sealants, scalp


toners

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Pump Bottle for any kind of oil, conditioners,


shampoos, hair masks

Bottle with nozzle for thin shampoos and scalp


toners

Large standard bottle with lid or mason jar for


large amounts of any product

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HOW TO MAKE DIY HAIRCARE LAST LONGER


WHAT TO BE AWARE OF

The benefits of DIY haircare are endless. But if there’s one thing that holds us back
from making our own haircare, it’s the confusing art of preserving them. The good
news is, there are many simple ways to make your DIY haircare last longer. Let’s
shine a light on some of the most effective ones.

Use a Preservative

When it comes to using a preservative, I recommend using only the most natural
ones. My preferred preservative is potassium sorbate which is considered to be
very mild and non-irritating.

If you prefer to go even more natural, you may use essential oils such as rosemary
oil (.5% of the mixture) as well as oils high in antioxidants (Jojoba and Vitamin E).
Another useful addition is Grapefruit Seed Oil which is antimicrobial and it can be
added to oil formulations to reduce the rate at which they oxidise.

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Use Distilled Water

Tap water adds bacteria to your formulations which can massively shortens its
shelf life. If you chose to use water, opt for distilled water. However, even if it’s
distilled, you will likely need a preservative to prevent bacteria from growing.

If you don’t use water at all and make a 100% oil-based formulation, then you can
store it in an air-tight jar for a long time without any issues. It’s only when water is
added that you need to add a preservative.

Clean Your Hands and Disinfect Your “Lab”

Wash your hands thoroughly before getting to work on your products. Disinfect
any tools and surfaces you plan to use to minimise any risk of contaminating the
product. If bacteria gets in your product, it will start going rancid a lot faster. Make
sure to wash your containers with soap and then boil them in a water bath before
you start making a new batch of product. Be sure to let them dry completely before
filling them up.

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Protect Your Product From Sunlight

To reduce the risk of ruining your product through oxidation, it is recommended


to store your formulations in a dark container. Additionally, it’s best to store your
product in a cool and dark place. Avoid storing in the bathroom as it likely gets
warm and moist when the shower is in use.

Refrigerate Your Products

If you don’t plan on adding preservatives, keeping your haircare inside the fridge
is the easiest, safest and fastest way to keep it lasting longer. Most products won’t
last more than 3-5 days so make sure to check that they haven’t spoiled before
you use them.

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HOW TO MAKE YOUR OWN EXTRACTS

As you work through the formulations in this guide, you’ll often find that you need
extracts as part of the ingrediets list. Most of the times you can purchase those
extracts online but they are actually really easy to make at home. In this guide I’ll
tell you how. We recommend making just as much as you need to avoid having to
preserve your high grade extracts.

Chamomile Extract

For 500mL of chamomile extract, add 500mL of warm (around 50 C) water to a


pot with 100g of dried chamomile flowers. Make sure the flowers are completely
submersed, then cover the pod with a lid or a glared wrap. Wait 10-12 hrs. Measure
the pH of the water and add a few drops of lemon juice until the pH is in the 4.5 -
5.5 range. Seperate the flowers from the liquid using a kitchen strainer and discard
them. You chamomile extract is ready for use.

Cucumber Extract

Chop a washed unpeeled cucumber into 0.5 cm pieces and blend it until you
have a smooth liquid. Place a cheesecloth in a strainer and set it in a bowl. Pour
the liquid into the strainer. What comes out on the other side is your cucumber
extract, redy to be used.

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Aloe Vera Gel

Use a fresh aloe leaf from a plant, first cut off one of the outer leaves from the base
of the plant. Wash it well, removing any dirt, and then stand it upright in a cup or
bowl for 10–15 minutes. This allows the yellow-tinted resin to drain out of the leaf.
The resin contains latex, which can irritate your skin, so completing this step is important.

After the resin has drained completely, wash off any remains on the leaf and peel
off the thick skin using a small knife or vegetable peeler. Once the leaf has been
peeled, you will see the natural aloe vera gel. Using a small spoon, scoop it into
your blender. Be careful not to include any pieces of the aloe vera skin. Blend the
gel until it’s frothy and liquefied, which should only take a few seconds. Your gel
is ready to use.

Onion Extract

Place the a peeled onion in a water bath. Make sure its completly submersed. After
2 hours move the onion into a blender (without the water) and blend it until you
have a uniform mixture with few to no visible chunks. Use a cheese cloth or very
fine strainer to seperate the onion from it’s liquid. If you don’t have a fine strainer,
make sure to not bled the onion too much. Your extract is ready for use.

Green Tea Extract

Take a pot and add 1L water to 7 Tbs of loose green tea. Steep at room temperature
for 1 hour. Seperate the leaves from the extract using a strainer. Dispose of the
leaves. Your extract is ready.

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HOW TO STORE YOUR RAW MATERIALS

There are a few natural enemies to your raw materials those


are bacteria and oxidation.

Bacteria can spoil your products if those are exposed to


moisture. Eventually this can turn into mold which can make
a an entire bag of raw material unusable.

There are a lot of factors that cause oxidation, the ones most
relevant to use are oxidation caused by oxygen and oxidation
caused by UV. UV rays oxidise organic components in water
while oxygen also oxidises oils. Based on those factors
here are a few things you can do to keep your precious raw
material safe (this also applies to your final products btw).

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Dry Place

To avoid exposure to bacteria keep your products in a dry


place. That means not in the bathroom or the basement.
I used to store mine in the bedroom and moved it to the
living room after we started using a humidifier at night.

Dark Place

To avoid oxidation through UV keep your products hidden


from the sun. This is especially important for water based
products but really applies to all material.

Clean Containers

Whatever containers you use make sure to have them


as clean as possible. Don’t move materials into your own
bottles unless you’ve firmly steralised them.

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Air Tight Containers

This is a must for all oils. Make sure to close all bottles
tightly after every use to keep the oils from going bad. They
do last longer than ingredients that contain water but you
don’t need to risk it.

Away From Things That Can Spoil

There is nothing worse than having the perfect raw


ingredient stach and finding out that the potatoes you kept
in the same space went bad and caused your soap nuts
to spoil.

Keep It Raw

This almost goes without saying but only combine your


ingredients if you plan on using them right away. As soon
as you mix them or add water to them you shorten their
shelf life dramatically. If your products come in a solid form,
keep them solid for as long as possible.

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THE ECONOMICS OF DIY HAIRCARE

If you go on Youtube and look for DIY hair masks, what you’ll often find are homemade
treatments that use groceries for their active ingredients. For example, yoghurt for
lactic acid or eggs for their fatty acids and protein. For this reason, homemade DIY
recipes end up with a reputation of being remedies that aren’t all that fun to use
and make. The formulations in this guide follow a different method and philosophy.
They are luxurious formulations made with raw and natural ingredients. Although
some recipes will contain food products, they will mostly be kept at a minimum.

As you work through this guide, you might find yourself thinking that it’s cheaper to
buy a shampoo than to buy all the ingredients to make one. I’ve included this section
to clear up some of the misconceptions and explain the economics of DIY haircare
and how it saves your wallet. For reference, let’s use the Living Proof PhD Shampoo
which is a high-performance shampoo. Right now it retails at around $28 for 8 Oz.
Together with a haircare chemist, we’ve formulated a shampoo that is inspired by this
product. Now lets do the math for the DIY shampoo you can find in this guide.

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INGREDIENT AMOUNT PRICE

Water 850ml Pretty much free

Amla (Indian Gooseberry)


50g $10 for 1lb/450g
Dried Raw Fruit Powder

Reetha (Indian Soap Nut)


50g $10 for 1/2 lb/227g
Dried Raw Fruit Powder

Shikakai (Acacia Concinna)


50g $10 for ½ lb/227g
Dried Raw Fruit Powder

Chamomile Dried Flowers 50g $10 for 1lb/450g

Fresh Ginger Roots 10g $2 for ½ lb

Lemon Peel Thin slice 0.8ct for 1

Coco-Glucoside 150.0 $20 for 16 FL Oz/1L

Almond Oil 5g $7 for 16 FL Oz/1L

Fragrant Essential Oil


1g $5 for 10ml
(Lavender or Lemongrass)

Potassium Sorbate 3g $10 for 1lb

Fresh Lemon Juice A few drops to adjust pH a

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Sometimes you can’t just pay the exact amount you need for your shampoo so you might end up
spending a total of $84.80 for all the raw ingredients. Let’s go a little deeper. Reetha and Shikakai
are amongst the most expensive ingredients here based on how much you need and the price
per quantity. So without going back and reordering more Reetha and Shikakai, you could make this
formulation 4 times. So it’s actually more like $84,80/4 which is $21,20 but you’ll also get around 16
FL Oz/1L of product each time you make it. That’s double of what you get with Living Proof.

Overall you will likely pay around this much per bottle.

Store Bought High Performance Homemade High Performance


Toxin-free Shampoo Toxin-free Shampoo

$28 for 8 OZ $10,6 for 8 OZ

That’s a difference of almost $20. You can also reuse those ingredients in other formulations.
For example, ingredients such as Potassium Sorbate, Essential Oil, Almond Oil, Dried Chamomile
Flowers and Amla can be used for a variety of different formulations in this guide. They also last a
very long time.

Additionally, not every ingredient there needs to be used in your formation. Some are optional and
may not be relevant to your hair profile.

You don’t want to spend on preservatives? Don’t worry they are optional as long as you make the
product fresh, store it appropriately and use it fast. Don’t want to spend on an emulsifier? I’ve made
it optional and left a note on what the consequences are of not using it. This way its up to you to
decide where to trade off savings vs. convenience.

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SUBSTITUTE INGREDIENTS

We all have different allergies and preferences when it comes to certain ingredients.
The table on the right shows you which ingredients can be substituted and what to
substitute them with.

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INGREDIENT FUNCTION SUBSTITUTE

Potassium Sorbate Preservative You can leave it out and make


your products fresh, store
them in a dry and cool place
and use them up fast. For
more alternatives read the
section on How to make your
hair care last longer.

Panthenol Humectant Aloe vera gel, okra gel,


vegetable glycerin

Vegetable glycerin Humectant Aloe vera gel, okra gel,


panthenol

Coco-Glucoside Surfactant You can leave it out and use


raw surfactants like Reetha
instead. The cleaning and
foaming power will be milder.

Aloe vera gel Humectant Okra gel

Lactic acid Exfoliator, Astringent Greek Yoghurt

Coco-Glucoside Coco-Glucoside Coco-Glucoside

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SHAMPOO FORMULATIONS

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DEEP CLEAN HERBAL SHAMPOO

This deep clean herbal shampoo is a very gentle hair cleansing formulation that
effectively cleans all the dirt, bacteria and product residue from our hair without
stripping it of its natural oils. We’re using several kinds of soap nuts and a coconut
derived surfactant to ensure the deepest of cleanses without requiring a sulphate or
harsh detergent. To keep it as natural as possible, this product is formulated without
any synthetic thickeners or viscosity boosters.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND YOUR HOMEMADE


DEEP CLEAN HERBAL SHAMPOO

Reetha & Shikakai are two plants proven to have hair cleansing
properties. Reetha is also known as Indian Soap Nut because of the
high levels of saponins present in its extracts. Leaving both these
plants to soak in water ends up generating a lot of foam, so they
are a great addition to your shampoo.

Indian gooseberry (Amla) is a medicinal tree planted in India,


Pakistan and some other South East Asian countries. This tree has
edible sweet fruits which are rich in vitamin C. For centuries, its fruit
has been in use for hair cleansing and conditioning. A combination
of these three extracts (Reetha, Shikakai and Amla) provide a
natural base to our recipe because they foam up while providing a
gentle and natural cleansing and conditioning agent for your hair.

For hair conditioning, we are adding sweet almond oil. This is a great
way of nourishing your hair strands during the cleansing process.

Chamomile flowers are very popular not only in cosmetics, but in


teas too. They have a soothing and anti-inflammatory effect, so we
are adding them to this recipe to create a gentle environment for
scalp health.

Coco-glucoside is a plant-based surfactant with excellent wetting


and foaming properties.

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It is derived from coconut oil, so it’s environmentally friendly and


biodegradable. It’s great for haircare because it’s mild on the skin
and has natural foaming properties.

Potassium sorbate is a green preservative. You can add it to your


shampoo to extend the shelf-life to 6-12 months.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
• Steel spatula or spoon

• Glass bottle for storage

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you can’t get Amla, Reetha or Shikakai powder you can


also use them in their whole nut form. All you have to
do is boil the nuts for 10 minutes in water, crush the
nuts with a spoon and simmer for another 20 minutes
and strain the liquid. Then start the recipe at instruction
step 2.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1L SHAMPOO 1. Put all three powders, chamomile dried flowers, ginger roots
and lemon peel in a glass jar and soak them in warm water.
Water The water mustn’t be too hot as you don’t want to scald the
850ml herbs. Leave them in the water for 24 hours.

Amla (Indian Gooseberry) Dried 2. After your mixture has been soaking for 24 hours, stir it gently
Raw Fruit Powder and filter the liquid using a kitchen tea strainer or cotton
50g fabric. Make sure to catch all big chunks and solid particles.
We want our shampoo to be completely smooth.
Reetha (Indian Soap Nut) Dried
Raw Fruit Powder 3. Add coco-glucoside to the mixture and stir gently to avoid
50g foam formation. Add almond oil and gently combine.

Shikakai (Acacia Concinna) Dried 4. Add essential oil of your choice.


Raw Fruit Powder
50g 5. Dissolve potassium sorbate in a few drops of warm water and
add it to the mixture. Stir well.
Dried Chamomile Flowers
50g 6. Check the pH level of your shampoo; it should be in the range
of 4.50 - 5.50. If you need to lower the pH level, add fresh
Fresh Ginger lemon juice to bring the pH to slightly acidic level.
10g
7. Your shampoo is ready to use!
Lemon Peel
Thin slice 8. Store your shampoo in an air-tight glass bottle. It’s
recommended to store some of the product in a smaller
Coco-Glucoside jar or plastic container to keep in the shower for daily use.
150g However, the bulk of the product should be stored in an air-
tight jar in the dark so it stays fresh for longer.
Almond Oil
5g 9. Shake your bottle up before you use it to ensure all
ingredients are combined.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)

Potassium Sorbate
3 g (optional)

Fresh Lemon Juice


A few drops

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PERFECT HAIR DAY SHAMPOO

This shampoo is formulated to keep your oiliness at bay and is especially suited for oily
scalp types. It’s an effective but mild cleanser that won’t strip your scalp of it’s natural
oils and prevents your scalp from overproducing oil in between your next wash. We’ve
left out all harmful foaming agents so you might notice that it won’t foam as much as
store-bought shampoos. However, it won’t affect the efficacy or effectiveness of the
formulation. The foaming properties of shampoos are purely cosmetic and can be
harmful to an oily and flaky scalp. If you want some bubbling action, don’t forget to
use your scalp massager when using this formulation.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR PERFECT HAIR DAY SHAMPOO

Guar gum is a natural thickener used in food and cosmetics


formulations to boost viscosity of the product. It is a mucilaginous
ingredient that imparts an invisible layer over your strands and
protects it against breakage and environmental damage. It also
helps seal in moisture on thirsty summer strands. This multi-
functional ingredient also adds tons of shine and slip.

Coco-glucoside is our main surfactant in this recipe. It is mild,


green and biodegradable sourced from sugar. It provides excellent
detergency to cleanse your hair and scalp.

Rose water is commonly used in skin care formulations, we’ve


added it to make the formulation milder. Rose water is full of
polyphenols and does a great job in delivering antioxidants to
hair & scalp.

Moringa & chamomile extracts are soothing agents which we’ve


added to nourish the scalp with vital nutrients.

Panthenol is a humectant and also noticeably improves the


strength of the hair fibre. This results in significantly improved
hair surface and shine.

Sweet almond oil is our potent emollient boosting hair slip and
shine.

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Potassium sorbate is a mild and biodegradable preservative


used to extend the shelf life of this formulation.

Lemon is added here to adjust pH of the formulation.

EDTA tetrasodium is a water softening agent which chelates


hard water metals such as calcium and magnesium. It improves
the water wetting ability which improves its cleansing ability. It
also removes tiny metals that are stuck to your hairs shaft from
having hard water. Once those metals are removed, you’ll notice
how a huge difference in the shine and softness of your hair. It is
completely optional and only recommended if you have extremely
hard water.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1L, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)

• Steel spatula or spoon

• Glass bottle for storage

IMPORTANT NOTES

EDTA tetrasodium is added to soften hard water. If you


don’t have a problem with hard water, you don’t need to
add EDTA.

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PREPARATION

1. Dissolve EDTA in 300mL of water and stir until completely


MAKES 630G SHAMPOO
dissolved. This step is completely optional and can be skipped
if you do not have hard water or would like to keep the
Water
shampoo simple.
300 ml
2. Combine guar gum and water and blend until smooth.
EDTA Tetrasodium (See Note 1)
0.50 g
3. Add coco glucoside and gently stir to avoid any foam
formation. Be patient it can take between 10-20 minutes for
Guar gum
the surfactant to dissolve completely.
2.50g
4. Add rose water, moringa extract, chamomile extract and
Coco Glucoside
panthenol. Stir gently until your mixture has turned into a
250g
uniform solution.
Rose water
5. Add sweet almond oil and an essential oil of your choice.
250ml
Once again, mix everything well at slow speed. Combining oil
with water can take a long time, stir for at least 5-10 minutes.
Moringa extract
50ml
6. For the preservation of this product, dissolve potassium
sorbate in few drops of water. Once the preservative has
Chamomile extract
dissolved, add it to the main mixture and combine everything
10ml
gently.
Panthenol
7. Check the pH of your shampoo. If above 4.50 - 5.50, add a few
10ml
drops of lemon juice and check the pH again. Repeat until the
formulation has reached the desired pH level. Make sure to
Almond Oil
filter out any pulp from the lemon juice.
10g
8. Your shampoo is ready for use! Store in a sterile and airtight
Fragrant Essential Oil
glass bottle and keep it in a dry and dark place. Shake it well
A few drops (optional)
before every use to ensure all ingredients are well combined.
Potassium Sorbate
5g

Fresh Lemon Juice


A few drops

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BAR MINIMUM CONDITIONING SHAMPOO BAR

We’ve combined the zero-waste and gentle cleansing philosophy in the Bar Minimum
Conditioning Shampoo Bar. This zero-waste shampoo bar is completely natural
and gentle so you can save the environment and your hair at the same time. You
see, store-bought shampoo bars aren’t as healthy as they sound. They tend to be
manufactured just like hand soap bars, which are usually corrosive and damaging
for hair. However, they’re becoming more popular because they create zero waste.
This formulation is perfect for sensitive scalp types as we’ve only included the absolute
necessary ingredients needed to do a great cleansing job. The shampoo bar is solely
made of natural oils converted into a bar of soap using sodium hydroxide. In our
recipe below, all oils are naturally sourced and are blended with Panthenol which is
added to restore your hairs strength, shine and smoothness. The recipe is a bit more
difficult to make as you’ll have to cook the mixture and then cool it inside a mould but
it’s going to be worth it.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR BAR MINIMUM SOAP BAR

Sodium Hydroxide is a caustic lye used to convert plant fat into


foaming soap. This ingredient is damaging to hair when used at
high concentrations and at high pH. However, the final bar of
shampoo will not contain sodium hydroxide because it will react
with other ingredients to neutralize the hydroxide.

Coconut Oil is high in lauric acid which is the main base of the
bar and is responsible for the bar’s hardnes. Coconut oil also
adds natural cleansing and foaming properties to the bar. If your
hair doesn’t agree with coconut oil, you can use olive oil instead.
However, olive oil will produce a much softer bar.

Castor & Shea Butter are used in this formulation for both their
emollient properties as well as their beautiful and soft texture.
Castor oil, in particular, enhances fibre surface properties, shine
and helps in align your hair’s cuticle. Both are added in this recipe
to provide conditioning properties.

Sweet Almond & Hemp Seed Oils have the perfect fatty acid
profile for providing additional smoothness and easier detangling
during the shampooing process..

Panthenol is a humectant and also noticeably improves the


strength of the hair fibre. This results in significantly improved
hair surface and shine.

Citric acid is added here to adjust the pH of the formulation.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Thermometer

• Saucepan (ideally stainless steel)

• Plastic spoons

• Scale

• A plastic, silicone or wooden mould

IMPORTANT NOTES

Please carefully handle sodium hydroxide. Wear gloves


and goggles. In it’s undiluted form it’s very alkali (pH is
14 that higher than bleach) and can give you chemical
burns if you touch it In case you do get it on your skin,
please wash and rinse water immediately and apply some
Vaseline.

If you decide to add colour to the formulation please add


it right after the Panthenol.

If you are sensitive to coconut oil, don’t worry! The oil is


transformed in the creation process.

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PREPARATION

1. Pour the water in a large plastic container and carefully


MAKES 1KG BAR
weigh out the sodium hydroxide before adding it to the
SHAMPOO
water. Pure sodium hydroxide is very corrosive. Be extremely
cautious and wear protective gloves and goggles when doing
Water
this. Sodium hydroxide dissolves very easily in water so you
220 ml
can just set the bowel aside for 5-10 minutes until it has
completely dissolved.
Sodium hydroxide (solid)
72g
2. Slowly heat up coconut oil, castor oil, shea butter, sweet
almond oil and hemp seed oil in a large pot until the mixture
Coconut Oil
has reached 50 degrees celcius. Make sure to check the
420g
temperature regularly using a thermometer. Switch off the
heat.
Castor Oil
280g
3. Pour the sodium hydroxide solution into the pot and combine
everything using a hand blender or whisk until the batch is
Shea Butter
smooth and has a uniform colour.
170g
4. Immediately afterwards, add panthenol and essential oil
Sweet Almond Oil
(optional) and blend until smooth.
80g
5. It’s now time to correct the pH of your product by adding a
Hemp Seed Oil
few drops of citric acid (or lemon juice) dissolved in water.
80g
Do not check the pH. Shampoo bars made with sodium
hydroxide keep for longer and can be sulfate-free but it’s
Panthenol
impossible to balance their pH to 4.5-5.5. Instead you’ll have
5ml
to balance the pH when you foam up the product and apply it
to your hair.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)
6. Once your mixture has become a little bit more viscous, pour
it into a mould.
Citric Acid or Fresh Lemon Juice
A few drops
7. Place the mould in a dry place at room temperature to allow
it to set and harden. After 48 hours, the bar will be completely
set and can be used. However, if you can it’s best to wait a full
week for the reactions inside the bar to finish completly.

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SUPER QUICK & EASY SHAMPOO

One of the main concerns around making your own haircare products at home is the
complicated process of turning a bunch of raw ingredients into a finished product. To
make this process simpler, we’ve formulated the Super Quick & Easy Shampoo which
contains only 6 ingredients. Due to it’s simplicity, it won’t target specific concerns. It’s a
simple shampoo with limited cleansing power, making it perfect for when you need to
wash your hair often but you don’t want to damage your scalp from regular cleansing.
If you’re sweating daily or working in the hospital and you need to shampoo your hair
daily, this one is perfect for you.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR QUICK & EASY SHAMPOO

We’re using raw naturally occurring surfactants to emulsify sebum


and remove dirt particles so they can be rinsed off in the shower.

Saponins are natural surfactants known for their cleansing


properties. They can be found in various plant species such as
Indian Gooseberry, Indian soapberry nuts (Reetha) and Acacia
concinna (Shikakai). They even foam up if you shake them in water!

Chamomile flower extract is used for it’s relaxing and soothing


properties. It is anti-inflammatory which helps cleanse and calm
the scalp.

Orange juice is added here for its polyphenols and citric acid,
which provide additional cleansing properties and maintain the
balance of pH our scalp and hair needs.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Large pot

• pH test strips

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you can’t get Amla, Reetha or Shikakai powder you can


also use them in their whole nut form. All you need to do
is boil the nuts for 10 minuts, crush them into a paste and
simmer for another 20. Then start the recipe at Step 2.

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PREPARATION

1. Pour hot water into a bowl and slowly sift in reetha powder
MAKES 1L SHAMPOO
while continously stirring until completely combined.
Water
2. Add chamomile extract, orange juice and a few drops of
890 ml
essential oil to your liking, mixing after each step.
Reetha (Indian soapberry nuts)
3. Next, add a few drops of your favourite essential oil to give
Powder
your shampoo a nice scent.
50g
4. If you’re planning to store your shampoo for more than
Chamomile flower extract (non-
one week, then add potassium sorbate at this step. Simply
alcoholic)
dissolve it in a few drops of water and add to the mixture.
50g
5. Use pH test strips to test the shampoo. Adjust the mixture
One medium sized orange (freshly
with orange juice until it has reached a pH of 4.50 - 5.50.
squeezed, no pulp or seeds)
10ml
6. Strain the mixture through a fine strainer or cheese cloth and
store in a sterile bottle. Shake gently before use.
Potassium Sorbate
3g

Fragrant Essential Oil


a few drops (optional)

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NATURAL DRY SHAMPOO

Dry shampoos are a convenient way to give your hair a boost of freshness without
having to go through the normal process of shampooing your hair. They give you the
freedom to basically skip the washing, cleansing, conditioning and drying for another
day. This is perfect if you’re strapped for time or you’re trying to reduce the number
of times you expose your hair to the harmful ingredients found in regular shampoos.

Unlike store-bought dry shampoos which are often filled with other equally harmful
compounds and come in aerosol cans (which are terrible for the environment and for
your hair), this formulation is completely natural. We’re using almond powder blended
with fruit powders and essential oils to give your hair a clean look and feel, toxin-free!

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR NATURAL DRY SHAMPOO

Almond flour/Almond meal is used due to its larger granules


which will make it easier to brush out. It’s also completely natural
and won’t irritate your hair like talcum powder.

Oat starch is used to absorb excess sebum to prevent your hair


from looking greasy and clumping together.

Dry Lemon fruit powder has strong antibacterial properties and


is used to kill bacteria and control sebum production and prevent
dandruff in between washes. It also contains vitamin C which will
help fight oxidative stress in between washes.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

It’s best make a large batch in one go and store a small


amount in a powder container or salt shaker bottle for
easier application. This will prevent your current batch
from contaminating the rest.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1KG DRY 1. Mix almond powder, oat starch and dry lemon fruit powder in
SHAMPOO a bowl.

Almond powder (fine) 2. Add a few drops of a essential oil to scent your product
485g (optional). Combine well. Don’t use too much oil otherwise the
powder may become grainy
Oat starch
485g 3. Store an air tight container and place it in a cool and dry
place. You can freeze also the powder to ensure no bacterial
Dry Lemon fruit powder growth or spoiling.
30g
4. Dust a generous amount of dry shampoo powder onto your
Fragrant Essential Oil scalp. Massage in for 2 minutes and leave it on your scalp
A few drops (optional) for another 5 minutes. This will allow the powders to absorb
sebum. Dust off the excess and you’re good to go.

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GREEN COFFEE BEAN SHAMPOO

The most important task for every shampoo is to cleanse while maintaining a healthy
scalp. This shampoo is formulated to target the problem areas of Hair Growth and
Hair Retention. If you’re struggling with dandruff or excess oiliness which leads to hair
loss, then definitely give this shampoo a try! Additionally, this shampoo helps stimulate
more hair growth due to its caffeine content, so it is perfect for those looking for
longer and denser hair. The recipe contains green coffee powder blended with Indian
soapberry nuts. Coffee is loaded with antioxidants and soapberry nuts provide a mild
cleansing abilitiy. We’ve also added onion extract which is full of sulfur to maintain a
healthy scalp.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR GREEN COFFEE BEAN SHAMPOO

Reetha is also known as Indian Soap Nuts due to high levels of


saponins which give it a surfactant-like quality. It will be the main
cleansing and foaming agent used in this formulation.

Green coffee bean powder contains caffeine which stimulates


the scalp by improving blood flow. This regenerates new cells and
activates hair follicles and thereby promotes hair growth while
counteracting hair loss.

Onion extract is rich in sulfur and provides cleansing properties


as well as therapeutic properties to this formulation. It also helps
in healing damaged or irritated scalp and improves its overall
health.

Fragrant essential oil is used to provide scent to the formulation.


This is optional. If you choose to use an essential oil, please make
sure to use one that is non-comedogenic and non-irritating.

Potassium sorbate is a natural and biodegradable preservative.


This ingredient is optional. You can add this if you would like to
store your shampoo for an extended period of time (more than
1 week). It will increase the shelf-life of this formulation.

Lemon Juice is highly acidic. A few drops are used to balance the
pH of this formulation.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

Make sure to check the “Make Your Own Extract” section


on page 30 before getting started.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1L SHAMPOO 1. Mix reetha powder in a bowl with warm water until it’s
completely combined. Then add the coffee powder and mix
Warm water again.
890mL
2. Add onion extract to the mixture and stir to combine.
Reetha (Indian soapberry nuts)
Powder 3. Add an essential oil to the treatment to give it your preferred
50g scent (optional).

Green coffee powder 4. Add potassium sorbate to preserve the batch. Stir until
50g dissolved.

Onion extract (non-alcoholic) 5. Check the pH level and adjust with lemon juice until it has
10g reached a pH of 4.50 - 5.50.

Potassium Sorbate 6. Strain the mixture and store in an airtight glass bottle.
3g
7. Shake the product gently before every use to make sure the
Fragrant Essential Oil ingredients are well combined.
A few drops (optional)

Fresh Lemon Juice


A few drops

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NON-DRYING PURPLE SHAMPOO

This formulation is for all the hair bleachers, the blondies and anyone who
enjoys highlights in their hair. Bleached hair is always going to be weaker
and more fragile than virgin hair. This means it needs extra care to stay
healthy. Unfortunately, bleaching normally requires you to apply even
more damaging products to keep up the look. One of the most frustrating
downsides of lifting your hair colour is the brassy tones that accompany it.
Lifting your hair colour is quite damaging in itself, and having to cover up
the brassy tones with a store-bought purple toners adds to the damage. In
my own search for a healthier purple toner, my chemist and I came up with
the Non-Drying Purple Shampoo formulation. A gentle shampoo that fights
back against those dreaded brassy tones without drying out your strands.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR NON-DRYING PURPLE SHAMPOO

Xanthan gum is a natural thickener used in food and cosmetics


formulations to boost viscosity of the product. It also helps seal
in moisture and avoid further discolouration.

Coco-glucoside is our main surfactant in this recipe. It is mild,


green and biodegradable sourced from sugar. It provides excellent
detergency to cleanse your hair and scalp.

Rose water is full of polyphenols which is a specific type of


antioxidant needed to activate the colour particles and prevents
the pigment from lifting out of your hair through UV exposure.

Chamomile extract is a soothing agent which we’ve added to


nourish the scalp with vital nutrients.

Panthenol is a humectant which is used in this formulation to


improves the strength of the outer layer of the hair strand. This
ingredient will significantly improve shine and lock in moisture.

Potassium sorbate is a mild and biodegradable preservative of


choice for this formulation.

Acid Violet 43 is a hair dying agent which has shown to be effective


at canceling out yellowing hair.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)

• Steel spatula or spoon

IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation can get messy VERY quickly. It is


recommended to make a small batch to see if the product
works for your hair. Once you know that you like it, it is
recommended to make a large batch to save yourself
from the slightly messy creation process.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1KG MASQUE


1. Use a hand blender to combine water and xanthan gum until
the liquid turns into a thin gel.
Water
600 ml
2. Add coco glucoside and mix gently to avoid any foaming. Mix
for up to 20 minutes or until the surfactant has completely
Xanthan gum
combined with the gel.
2.5 g
3. Add rose water, chamomile extract and panthenol to the
Coco glucoside
mixture and combine gently once again. Then add your choice
150 ml
of essential oil to scent the product.
Rose water
4. Dissolve acid violet powder in a small amount of water, just
120 ml
enough for it dissolve. Then add the solution to the main
batch and combine.
Panthenol
5 ml
5. Dissolve potassium sorbate in a few drops of of warm water
and add it into the main mixture.
Chamomile extract
5 ml
6. Check the pH and adjust accordingly with lemon juice until
the mixture reaches a pH of 4.50 - 5.50.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)
7. Store the shampoo in an airtight glass bottle. Use when
needed to remove brassy tones from your hair.
Acid Violet Powder
0.5 g + 5ml water

Potassium Sorbate
2 g (optional)

Lemon juice
few drops to balance pH

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CONDITIONER & MASQUE FORMULATIONS

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MEDIUM/HIGH POROSITY RESTORE CONDITIONER

This Restore Conditioner formulation is perfect if you’re struggling with


a loss of structure and strength as a result of everyday grooming and
chemical treatments. These harmful practices usually increase the porosity
of your strands. This conditioner is used to gently and subtly restore the
protein back into your hair shaft and is safe for regular use. In more severe
cases, you might need a high-strength protein treatment. For your regular
protein boost, a conditioner like this is perfect. This cationic blend effectively
deposits protein while flattening your cuticles for healthy, strong and shiny
hair.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR RESTORE CONDITIONER

EDTA tetrasodium is a water softening agent which chelates hard water metals such
as calcium and magnesium and improves water wetting ability to for better cleansing.
It can also remove tiny metals that are stuck to your hairs shaft. Once removed you’ll
notice how much shinier your hair has gotten. This is totally optional and only needed
if you have extremely hard water.

Glycerin is an fantastic humectant which we’ve added to deliver loads of moisture to


your hair. It helps in maintaining water balance across the hair fiber surface which is
needed when using protein.

Guar gum is a natural thickener used in food and cosmetics formulations to boost
the viscosity of the product. It is rich in natural starch and improves your hair’s overall
appearance and texture.

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate is the base of our product. This
compound is what emulsifies and stabilizes the formulation. It’s highly moisturising
and gives the conditioner loads of slip.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein penetrates the hair fiber and fills broken protein bonds
causes by UV, chemicals, heat, styling or other external factors in order to restore
shine and structure.

Panthenol is another powerful humectant used to significantly improve the quality of


the hair surface and add shine.

Citric acid is added here to adjust pH of the formulation.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
• Steel spatula or spoon

• Scale

IMPORTANT NOTES

Make at least 500g of this conditioner, otherwise you’re


at risk of creating too many air bubbles while blending
which impact the texture of the final product. EDTA is only
needed if you have hard water. If you plan on storing your
product for more than 1 week use potassium sorbate as
preservative.

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PREPARATION

1. Fill the sink up with cold water. You’ll need this water bath for
MAKES 1KG OF cooling your formulation.
CONDITIONER
2. Dissolve EDTA in water and stir until completely dissolved.
Water This step is completely optional and can be skipped if you do
750L not have hard water or would like to keep the conditioner
simple. If you skip this step simply proceed with regular water.
EDTA
0.5 g 3. Add glycerin and guar gum to the liquid and gently mix
together to make a paste. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan.
Vegetablel Glycerin
25 g 4. In a separate saucepan, combine shea butter, argan oil,
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate and
Guar Gum panthenol.
10 g
5. At the same time, heat up both saucepans. Heat the glycerin
Natural Shea Butter and guar gum paste until it reaches a temperature of 70
25 g degrees celcius. Alongside this, heat up the oil mixture just
enough to melt all the solids into a liquid.
Argan Oil
5g 6. As soon as the paste reaches 70 degrees celcius, pour the
oil mixture into the paste mixture. Combine them using a
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) blender or hand mixer for 2 minutes (120 seconds).
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
50 g 7. Take a spoon and gently stir the mixture for another 20
seconds to release any air bubbles that formed during the
Panthenol blending step.
2.5 g
8. Place the bowl in the water bath while gently mixing until your
Hydrolyzed wheat protein batch cools down to 40 – 45 degrees celcius.
10 g
9. Add the wheat protein and combine gently.
Potassium Sorbate
5 g dissolved in 10ml of water 10. Dissolve potassium sorbate in 10ml of water. Once it has
completely dissolved, add this solution to the main batch and
Fragrant Essential Oil gently combine.
A few drops (optional)
11. Add a few drops of essential oil (optional).
Fresh Lemon Juice
A few drops 12. Check the pH of your batch using pH strips. Bring the formula
down to 3.00 – 3.50 by adding small portions of lemon juice,
checking and testing again until it’s adjusted.

13. Allow the conditioner to settle down overnight. You may safely
use it after 24 hours. Apply to freshly shampooed medium-
high porosity hair to add structure and shine.

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NOURISHING PRE-SHAMPOO HAIR MASK

Styling products, grooming techniques and chemical treatments leave our


hair damaged, fragile and frizzy. Not only is damaged hair harder to style, it
also breaks easily which results in lost volume, density and length. Sadly, we
can’t just grow completely new hair and start fresh. What we really need is a
remedy to fix damaged hair, gain back some of our natural shine texture and
finally bring back those good hair days again. If your hair is dry, frizzy and
damaged, this homemade pre-shampoo might be exactly what you need.

This nourishing hair mask is a super blend of organic oils that provide
excellent slip, lubricity and penetration. It’s a mix of sealing and penetrating
oils which you may adjust to your hair type. The mix of oils delivers a
powerful punch of minerals to nourish your scalp.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR NOURISHING PRE-SHAMPOO HAIR MASK

Natural oils and butters are an excellent source of long chain


fatty acids which provide a natural source of emollients that have
incredible conditioning properties.

Coconut oil is full of lauric acid, and will penetrate the hair shaft
to deeply nourishing the hair and protect it during the cleansing
process.

Shea butter contains triglycerides of stearic and oleic acid. These


fats deliver high quality conditioning to your hair, without any
greasiness.

Almond oil is used in this formulation to provide a potent dose


of Vitamin E and antioxidants to your scalp, helping it fight free
radical damage and prevent hair loss.

Meadowfoam seed oil and argan oil are primary added for a dose
of nutrients to the scalp. While they also help keep the hair silky,
smooth and moisturized, they are also very beneficial to our scalp.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

If you’re sensitve to coconut oil or you have low porosity,


try replacing it with an oil more suited to your hair profile.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 70G 1. Combine all oils and shea butter in a medium sized bowl. If
the coconut oil or shea butter are solid you can do this step
Coconut Oil in small saucepan over low heat.
25 g
2. Add a few drops of a essential oil to scent your product and
Organic Shea Butter combine well.
25 g
3. Use this product the same way you’d use regular conditioner
Sweet Almond Oil and wash it off after 5-10 minutes.
10 g
4. Store any leftover product in a sterile and air tight container.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil The formulation is 100% oil based and doesn’t require any
5g preservatives.

Argan Oil
5g

Fragrant Essential Oil


A few drops (optional)

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ALL-NATURAL MOISTURIZING HAIR MASK

Dry and dull hair is a major concern for most of us. Hair loses its moisture
content due to harsh chemical treatments and exposure to environmental
stressors. In both cases, our hair becomes more static, rougher and frizzier.
This is even more prominent at at the tips of our hair where our hair is more
damaged and fragile. We formulated an All-Natural Moisturizing Hair Mask
to bring back your hair’s luscious healthy look.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR MOISTURIZING HAIR MASK

Aloe vera gel is used as a hydrating base for this formulation. The
gel is rich in polysaccharides, proteins and minerals which provide
the perfect balance of hydration, strength and nourishment for
your hair.

Raw honey is used in this formulation for adding nourishment


and shine to the hair shaft.

Coconut oil is a penetrating oil and is used to deeply nourish the


hair shaft. It’s most beneficial for porous, dry and brittle hair. A
blend of these oils ensures the deeper layers of your hair get
nourished. If you have low porosity hair or sensitive scalp types,
please use an oil more suited to your hair profile.

India amla oil ‘s fatty acid composition gives this formulation extra
shine properties. This is optional and can be replaced with your
favourite penetrating oil.

Cucumber extract is added to provide a soothing and calming


effect on the scalp. It will help with scalp hydration while
moisturising the hair shaft.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)

• Steel spatula or spoon

IMPORTANT NOTES

Try to use freshly obtained aloe vera gel for this recipe.
Please don’t use this product mixture if your scalp
is sensitive, inflamed, damaged or has a high level of
dandruff. Keep in mind your hair’s porosity when making
this mask and replace coconut oil with a less penetrating
oil if you have medium to low porosity.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 80G MASQUE


1. Gently combine aloe vera gel, honey and glycerin in a medium
sized bowl until the mixture looks uniform.
Natural Aloe Vera Gel
25 g
2. Add coconut oil, meadowfoam seed oil, Indian amla oil and
jojoba oil to the concoction and mix well. Then add cucumber
Raw Natural Honey
extract and mix again.
10 g
3. If you’d like to preserve this formulation, add dissolved
Vegetal Glycerin
potassium sorbate in a small portion of warm water and mix it
10 g
into the batch. If you would like to make this recipe whenever
you’d like to use it, then there’s no need to add potassium
Coconut Oil
sorbate.
5g
4. Let the mixture rest in a cool and dry place for 20-30 minutes.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil
5g
5. After that, apply a generous portion to pre-washed hair. Keep
the mask on your hair for 15-20 minutes. This will replace
Indian Amla Oil
your pre-shampoo.
10 g
6. After 20 minutes, rinse with warm water and follow your
Jojoba Oil
cleansing routine as usual.
5g

Cucumber Extract
10 g

Potassium Sorbate
(optional)
0.25 g

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DEEP NOURISHMENT CONDITIONER

A deep treatment conditioner formulated with certified organic plant,


vegetable, flower, and tree extracts. Helps repair dry, chemically treated,
damaged, porous and overworked hair. Restores lustre, softness, flexibility
and shine, while detangling instantly.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR DEEP NOURISHMENT CONDITIONER

Olive oil and jojoba oils are both sealing and penetrating oils.
This will ensure hydration stays in the strand after washing while
adding lubrication, shine and managability to your hair.

Green tea extract is included for its antioxidant content, adding a


layer of free-radical fighting properties to the outer layer of your
strand.

Chamomile extract is added for its antibacterial activity. Due to


the the high water and oil content, a formulation like this has an
increased risk of spoiling. The extract will slow down the rate of
bacterial growth.

Potassium sorbate is used to preserve the product. This will


ensure a shelf-life of 6 - 12 months.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers

• Glass bottle for storage

IMPORTANT NOTES

If you prefer not to use preservatives, you may keep


the oils seperate from the other ingredients and only
combine them right before usage.

If you’d like your conditioner to be more viscous,


you can thicken up the consistency by adding 2.5 g
of xathan gum or guar gum. Just blend the gum with
water until smooth and then continue with step 1.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1L OF
1. Combine water, olive oil, jojoba oil, both extracts and ACV in a
CONDITIONER
bowl or beaker. Stirring gently until all combined.
Water
2. If you’d like to preserve this formulation, add potassium
600 ml
sorbate to the mixture and stir until completely dissolved.
Olive oil
3. Check the pH of the formula and adjust it with additional
100 ml
drops of ACV until it reaches 4.50 - 5.50.
Jojoba oil
4. Transfer the product into an air-tight bottle and close it.
100 ml
Shake the mixture heavily until the concoction becomes a
uniform colour. Your conditioner is ready for use!
Green tea extract
100 ml
5. Due to the lack of emulifiers, the oil and water will separate.
Just make sure to give the bottle a nice shake before use.
Chammomile extract
100 ml

Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV)


20 ml

Potassium Sorbate
2g (optional)

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PROTEIN TREATMENT FORMULATIONS

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LIGHT PROTEIN TREATMENT

Hair is made up of keratin (protein) and is damaged by everyday exposure


to the environment and our styling techniques. Due to all the things we
put our hair through, this protein loss leaves our hair dull, frizzy and rough.
Restoring the protein loss is critical for achieving healthy and strong hair.
If you have medium-high porosity and looking for a protein treatment, this
treatment is for you.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR LIGHT PROTEIN TREATMENT

Yogurt is rich in minerals and protein, and it’s slightly acidic due
to it’s lactic acid content (pH 4.00 – 4.50). The certain minerals,
protein and lactic acid come together for a perfect base for this
light protein treatment. It’s not only an amazing moisturizing
agent, but also a great scalp nourishing treatment.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein adds a little extra protein to further


fortify your hair shaft.

Meadowfoam oil is a light-colored and odorless triglyceride. It is


primary made up of long-chain fatty acids which makes it highly
moisturizing, without that greasy feeling. The lightness facilitates
the absorption of protein deep into the hair shaft.

Castor oil is used to help seal the hair shaft once the treatment
is washed off.

Lemon juice contains citric acid and helps in creating a


buffering system of our mixture. It also helps to balance the pH.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is best used fresh. You may freeze it


and thaw before use, however, the texture will change.
complete hair damage control!

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PREPARATION

MAKES 45G MASQUE 1. Weigh out the yogurt in a mixing cup. Add castor oil and
meadowfoam seed oil and mix well.
Plain Yogurt
25 g 2. Once your mixture is smooth, add hydrolyzed wheat protein.

Castor Oil 3. Leave this mixture in a cool, dry place for 30 minutes to allow
5g the protein to combine with the yoghurt.

Meadowfoam Seed Oil 4. Apply your protein treatment on unwashed hair. Use a brush
10 drops to spread the mixture evenly through your strands. Leave on
for 15 - 20 minutes.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
5g 5. Rinse off the mixture thoroughly with warm water. Make sure
no product residue stays on your hair as excess protein left
Fresh Lemon Juice on your hair will result in stiffness.
A few drops
6. Follow up with shampoo and apply a leave-in conditioner for
the best effect.

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STRONG HOMEMADE PROTEIN TREATMENT

Hair damage is a major concern for all of us, but especially for those of us
who spend a lot of time in the sun or have bleached, colored, straightened or
permed hair. These heat and chemical applications cause significant damage
to your hair structure, breaking the keratin bonds inside the hair shaft.

Protein loss leads directly to hair breakage, poor moisture retention and
dull, frizzy and rough looking hair. To restore your hair’s natural virgin looks,
deep conditioning and high-strength protein treatments are required. If you
have high porosity hair, this treatment is for you! This formulation delivers
several protein molecules with different molecular weights. They penetrate
and attach to various crosslinks of the hair fiber, restoring mechanical
strength and making your hair stronger and more resistant to breakage.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR STRONG PROTEIN TREATMENT

A combination of moisturising and nourishing yogurt, honey in


combination with egg makes up the base of our Strong Protein
Hair Treatment recipe.

Eggs contain significant amounts of protein and cholesterol which


add strengthening and conditioning properties to this recipe.
This means your hair will feel not just more moisturized, but also
physically stronger and thicker too. To complete this recipe, we
added three different hydrolyzed proteins. These proteins are
help repair the damaged bonds in your hair.

Oils are added for moisturizing effects and lubricity. Once


the proteins have seeped into your strand to fortify it, the
oils will work to give the strand a shiny and a smooth surface.

Lemon juice contains citric acid which ensures a friendly hair and
scalp pH level.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

Please always use fresh plain yogurt. Be careful not


to add too much lemon juice or the pH level will drop
further down to strong acidic conditions. If the formula is
too acidic, the proteins will not be able to penetrate the
shaft as deeply as it needs to. Keep this product away
from the scalp and only apply to high-porosity hair.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 110G 1. Place yoghurt in a medium sized cup along with honey
and egg.
Plain Yogurt
50 g 2. Add melted coconut oil, castor oil and meadowfoam
seed oil into the yogurt and mix until the consistency is
Raw Honey even and the oil is well combined with the yogurt.
20 g
3. Once the mixture is smooth, add hydrolyzed wheat
Egg protein, hydrolyzed soy protein and hydrolyzed silk
1 protein. Mix until it’s combined into a smooth texture.
This can take some time but please be patient and
Natural Coconut Oil (Unrefined) gentle to ensure no clumps.
10 g
4. Check the pH level of the product and if required,
Castor Oil adjust it to 3.00 - 3.50 by adding a few drops of fresh
10 g lemon juice. Only a few will do, otherwise the mixture
becomes too acidic. As this recipe uses yogurt, it’s best
Meadowfoam Seed Oil to make a fresh batch when needed. Potassium sorbate
5g can be used, but the formulation and lactic acid will be
most effective when used fresh.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
5g 5. Leave this mixture in a cool, dry place for 30 minutes.

Hydrolyzed Soya Protein 6. After 30 minutes, apply the product to clean hair. Be
5g sure to spread it evenly over your hair for the best
results. Leave the mixture on your hair for 15 - 20
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein minutes.
5g
7. Rinse the the treatment off thoroughly, using warm
Fresh Lemon Juice water and make sure no product residue stays on your
A few drops strands.

8. Follow this treatment up with a moisturising mask to


restore hydration to your newly fortified strands.

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VEGAN NATURAL PROTEIN TREATMENT

Protein treatments are essential for hair health, but it can be difficult to
find vegan options on the market. This formulation is for those that are
eagerly looking for sustainably sourced vegan protein treatment options.
The recipe is wonderfully simple and very easy to make with ingredients you
may already have in your kitchen!

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR VEGAN NATURAL PROTEIN TREATMENT

Chickpea is an excellent source of protein; it’s affordable and


easily accessible in most places. We’re using it as the main protein
source for this formulation. It’ll provide a smoothness boost to
your distressed hair. If you have oily hair, the chickpea powder
has the ability to absorb sebum too.

Moringa is another well-known source of protein that helps to


balance the amino acid composition of this formulation. It will
ensure the hair strand receives several different molecular sizes
of protein.

Avocado & castor oils are added to give your hair extra
conditioning and and slip. This ensures that you don’t struggle
to spread the mixture evenly or accidentally pull your hair during
the application process.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

Be careful not to add too much lemon juice or the pH


level will drop further down to strong acidic conditions.
If the formula is too acidic, the proteins will not be able
to penetrate the shaft as deeply as it needs to. Chickpea
may make a dry scalp drier, so please keep it away from
the scalp if you have this scalp type. Only apply this
treatment to high-porosity hair.

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PREPARATION

1. Well combine all ingredients, except for the lemon juice


MAKES 100G MASQUE
in a medium sized bowl.
Water
2. Check the pH level of the mixture and if you need to,
40ml adjust it to 3.00 - 3.50 by adding a few drops of fresh
lemon juice. Make sure you only add a few drops at a
Chickpea Powder, fine time.
30 g
3. Keep mixing until the paste is completely uniform in
Moringa leaf powder texture and colour, cover it with a lid and let it rest for
20 g around 30 minutes.

Avocado oil 4. Your product is ready for use! Apply the paste to
5g severely damaged strands and leave on for 20 minutes.
Rinse and follow your cleansing routine as normal.
Castor oil
5g

Fresh Lemon Juice


A few drops

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YOUR OWN NO.3 TREATMENT

This treatment is inspired by probably one of the most popular hair


treatments available on the market. It’s known for its amazing results when
it comes to bringing back strength and managability to previously damaged
and extremely high porosity hair. This formulation is a natural & organic
alternative to the commercial product. The goal was to use naturally sourced
ingredients to deliver the same results as it’s famous counterpart. The
recipe is simple and easy to make and does not contain harmful chemicals
that might damage or irritate your hair and scalp.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR OWN NO.3 TREATMENT

Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate makes


up the base of this formulatiom. It is used to form a slippery
emulsion and stabilizes the whole product system. It also helps
with detangling the hair and improves wet & dry combing by
minimizing fiber friction.

Glycerin is an excellent humectant and used to improve the


hydration power of this formuation.

Castor, argan oil & shea butter are included for these emollient
properties. Castor oil in particular enhances the surface of your
strands by sealing the cuticle without preventing the protein
delivery system. Argan oil is a sealing and penetrating oil that
imparts shine and slip to the product.

Cucumber extract delivers polyphenols known for their


antioxidant properties while also nourishing the strands.

Hydrolyzed wheat protein penetrates the hair fiber and fills


broken protein bonds causes by UV, chemicals, heat, styling or
other external factors in order to restore shine and structure.

Panthenol is a humectant and also noticeably improves the


strength of the hair fibre. This results in significantly improved

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hair surface strength and shine.

Potassium sorbate is a preservative. It’s recommended for this


formulation, esepcially if you plan to store your formulation for
up to 12 months.

Citric acid is used to adjust pH of the formulation.

EDTA tetrasodium is a water softening agent which chelates hard


water metals such as calcium and magnesium. It essentially helps
remove tiny particles of metals that lodge into your hair due to
hard water which leaves your hair softer, smoother and much
shiner. This is optional and only recommended if you have hard
water in your area.

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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT

• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 100mL)

• Steel spatula or spoon

• Scale

IMPORTANT NOTES

EDTA is only needed if you have hard water. Please use


preservatives if you plan on storing your product for
more than one week.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 1L TREATMENT 1. Take an empty microwavable 1L glass beaker and weigh it


without any content inside. Take a note of the weight of the
Water empty beaker. Fill it with water and dissolve the EDTA in it.
800mL
2. Add glycerin to the mixture and gently stir. Place the beaker
EDTA in the microwave at heat it up for around 1 minute at 650W
0.5 g so the mixture reaches 70 degrees celcius. If you don’t have
a microwave you can place the beaker in a water bath and on
Vegetablel Glycerin your stove.
35 g
3. While you wait, fill the sink up with cold water. You’ll need this
Castor Oil water bath for cooling your formulation.
30 g
4. Take a second beaker or clean saucepan and place castor oil,
Natural Shea Butter shea butter, argan oil, cetearyl alcohol (and) behentrimonium
10 g methosulfate and panthenol inside. Heat everything up just
enough to melt into a homogeneous mixture.
Argan Oil
5g 5. Heat up the first mixture to 75 degrees celcius before
combining it with the second mixture. Use a hand blender to
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) combine and emulsify the product. Blend for 2 minutes.
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
50 g 6. Place the beaker inside the water bath and continue mixing
gently using a metal spoon for another 2 minutes.
Panthenol
2.5 g 7. Once the mixture has lowered to 40 – 45 degrees celcius, stir
in cucumber extract and hydrolyzed wheat protein until it’s
Cucumber extract well combined. Set aside.
10 g
8. To preserve your mixture for 6 -12 months, dissolve
potassium sorbate in water using a separate bowl or beaker.
Hydrolyzed wheat protein
Once dissolved, add it to the mixture under continuous
15 g
stirring.
Potassium Sorbate
9. To scent your treatment, add a few drops of you favorite
5 g dissolved in 10mL water
essential oil.
Fragrant Essential Oil
10. Test the pH by adding pulp-free lemon juice in small amounts
A few drops (optional)
to the mixture while continuously checking the pH. Repeat
until the pH is between 3.00 and 3.50.
Fresh Lemon Juice
Enough to adjust pH
11. Once the pH is balanced, allow your product to rest for 24
hours. After that, you may apply this treatment to freshly
shampooed hair.

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DETANGLER FORMULATIONS

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NO-FUSS DETANGLER

Detangling is amongst one of the most important practices in every haircare


routine. And unfortunately, it can be a very time-intensive haircare practice
too. This No-Fuss Detangler formulate is incredibly fast and simple to make
and will help you speed up your detangling process while nourishing your
hair at the same time. It contains only the simplest ingredients that are
available at home or easily bought online.

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YOUR NO-FUSS DETANGLER

The lemon juice is used due to its acidic pH level, helping to


flatten the hair cuticles so they do not lift up and break during
the detangling process.

Glycerin is a humectant that will improve the hydration capabilities


of this recipe.

Argan & Jojoba Oils are used to slightly penetrating and slightly
seal your hair cuticle. This will soften the hair, align the cuticles
and give it extra slip.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

If you plan on using the product over a longer period of


time, don’t forget to add the preservative to extend the
shelf-life.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 530ML 1. Pour water into a medium sized bowl and stir in argan oil,
DETANGLER jojoba oil and vegetable glycerin.

Water 2. Now add a few drops of your favourite essential oil to give
500mL your detangler a nice scent. Lavender or lemon oil work really
well with this one.
Filtered lemon juice
Max. 10mL 3. Add in lemon juice without pulp to blance the pH. Ensure the
formulation is at a pH level below 3.65. This will ensure the
Vegetable Glycerin application does not damage the structure of your strands by
10 g shifting its natural pH.

Argan Oil 4. If you’d like to store the detangler for more than a week, you
5g may add potassium sorbate.

Jojoba Oil 5. Decant the detangler into an air tight spray bottle. Shake
5g firmly before every use to cobine water and oil. Generously
spray onto your ends and detangle gently. Wash after use.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)

Potassium Sorbate
(optional preservative)
1g

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SUPER SLIPPER DETANGLING GEL

Detangling is, unfortunately, a very time-intensive haircare practice too,


despite how important it is for maintaining healthy strands. This detangling
gel formulation feels incredibly luxurious and will impart an intense slip
onto your strands, allowing you to speed up your detangling process while
nourishing your hair at the same time. The ingredients required for this
product are slightly more difficult to source compared to the No-Fuss
Detangler. However, the performance of this product is incredible. If you
have hair that tangles easily, you gotta give this formulation a go!

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR SUPER SLIPPERY DETANGLING GEL

Glycerin is an excellent humectant which is added to deliver loads


of moisture to the hair. It helps in maintaining water balance
across the strand. This moisture retention is what keeps your
strands flexible and allows them to slip out of the knots.

Slippery elm and marshmallow root are herbs with naturally and
incredibly slimy and slippery properties. Even moreso than aloe
vera! Getting the root is better but using the powdered form is
easier if you are a beginner. Once mixed with liquid, it becomes
a viscous and slippery liquid.

The lemon juice is used for its acidic pH level, helping to flatten the
hair cuticles so they do not lift up and break during the detangling
process. You must filter it and remove any pulp as it will affect the
effectiveness of the product.

Argan oil is used to slightly penetrate and slightly seal your hair
cuticle. This will protect, soften and seal the hair, giving it extra
slip.

Green tea extract delivers polyphenols known for its antioxidant


features. We’ve included this to nurture your strands, should you
go into the sun afterwards.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This product will have a shelf-life of 7 days in the fridge


or up to 12 months with a preservative. If you chose
to not preserve the mixture, you may also store any
excess product in the freezer and thaw it when
needed. The consistency is still very slippery, however,
the antioxidant properties will be deactivated.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 100ML 1. In a saucepan, and add water, marshmallow root and


DETANGLER slippery elm powder. Turn on the heat and stir to dissolve the
powders as the water heats up.
Water
85mL 2. Allow the mixture simmer for 15 minutes or until a well-
combined gel like consistency forms. You can always thin out
Filtered lemon juice the consistency later. However, you can not thicken it. So if it’s
a few drops too watery, continue to simmer until it’s reached your desired
consistency. Take off the heat and allow it to completely cool.
Vegetable Glycerin
5g 3. Once cooled, stir in glycerin, argan oil and green tea extract.

Slipper Elm Powder 4. If you prefer a thinner consistency, simply add more water.
If you would like to add a scent, add a few drops of your
2g
favourite essential oil. If you would like to preserve the
mixture, dissolve the potassium sorbate in a few drops of
Marshmellow Root Powder
water and add it to the mixture. Stir everything well.
3.5g
5. Test the pH of the product and adjust accordingly with filtered
Argan Oil
lemon juice until the mixture is below 3.67. It’s essential that
3g
there is no pulp in the juice for this particular formulation.
Green Tea extract
6. Strain the mixture to remove any clumps and decant into a
1g
pump bottle.
Potassium Sorbate
7. Use this product to detangle your knots before washing or
1 g (optional)
after. This product also doubles up as a sealant so you may
adjust the oils/humectants based on your hair profile.

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SEALANTS, HAIR OILS AND LEAVE-IN TREATMENT FORMULATIONS

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ULTIMATE SHINE SEALANT

After washing and conditioning your hair, it’s important that you protect
it from sustaining new damage and dehydration. A sealant does just
that. It seals in the moisture you’ve just added through the conditioning
step of your haircare routine and protects your strands against
cuticle abrasion caused by external forces such as wind and rubbing.

Most commercial sealants are used as leave-in conditioners and are made
up of plenty of synthetic and harmful materials. This sealant is formulated
without any harmful additives to protect your hair and provide you with the
moisture retention you need. This sealant is best used in summer as the
ingredients can solidify in cold weather, making it less effective.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR ULTIMATE SHINE SEALANT

Coconut oil is full of carbon-12 lauric acid which imparts moisture,


sheen and smoothness to the hair shaft. Although the formulation
is a sealant, the coconut oil will penetrate the shaft to ensure your
hair is moisturised until the next wash.

Shea Butter, macadamia nut oil, argan oil & almond oil also have
fatty acid compositions that impact an excellent amount of shine
to the hair shaft and will seal the hair shaft, prevent moisture
from escaping.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

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PREPARATION

1. Heat up the coconut oil and shea butter in a


MAKES 105G OIL
saucepan until it just becomes liquid. This makes
them easier to work with and will also improve how
Coconut Oil
they spread onto the strand.
25 g
2. Add all other oils and combine.
Shea Butter
25 g
3. Add an essential oil of your choice. This is
completely optional and only for your enjoyment.
Macadamia Oil
25 g
4. Pour a small portion of this oil into your palms and
rub them together to heat up the product. Spread it
Argan Oil
all over your hands and inbetween your fingers.
15 g
5. Apply this oil mixture evenly to you damp freshly
Almond Oil
washed hair by running your hands through your
15 g
hair. Avoid using too much to avoid weighing down
your hair.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)

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10 WONDERS NATURAL HAIR OIL

Ready for some hair oils? Oils seem to be everyone’s darling when it comes
to hair care products. Unfortunately, they are often way too overpriced for
what they are. This mixture of 10 oils costs a fraction of what a similar oil on
the market would cost. It has all the properties to seal in moisture, eliminate
frizz and protect your strands against thermal & UV induced damage.

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YOUR 10 WONDERS NATURAL HAIR OIL

Natural oils and butters like the ones in this formulation are
excellent sources of natural emollients. Castor oil is rich in medium
to long range fatty acids which enhances your hair’s sheen.

Shea butter contains triglycerides of stearic and oleic acid.


These natural fats are added to deliver an optimum conditioning
experience without any greasiness.

Almond Oil, Jojoba, Meadowfoam seed oil and Argan Oil are
added to give your hair bounce and softness. They also deliver
nourishment to our scalp, two birds with one stone!

Amaranth Seed Oil is a natural blend of linoleic acid and oleic acid
which are unsaturated fats in nature. They provide a very thin
hydrophobic coating to your hairs surface which gives it shine
without making it greasy.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

The shea butter in this formulation might become a solid


paste in winter or cold weather. In this case, you can melt
it down with you stove on very low heat before combining
it with the rest of the oils.

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PREPARATION

1. Blend all oils together in a bowl or beaker.


MAKES 100G OIL
2. Decant into a pump bottle.
Sunflower Oil
72 g
3. It’s ready for use!
Shea Butter
1g

Castor Oil
2.5 g

Jojoba Oil
5g

Almond Oil
10 g

Moringa Oil
2.5 g

Argan Oil
2.5 g

Crambe Abyssinica Seed Oil


2.5 g

Amarnath Seed Oil


1g

Meadowfoam Seed Oil


1g

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UV PROTECTANT SEALANT / SPRAY

UV radiation is something we protect our skin from all the time, but our
hair gets damaged by it too! It can cause quite significant hair damage
as it causes free radicals inside the hair fiber. Studies have revealed
that repeated exposure to UV radiation makes hair brittle and fragile.
Additionally, exposure to radiation can cause a significant loss in hair
color intensity. Various plant oils are known for their special UV protectant
features, so we created this DIY easy-to-make spray to keep your hair and
color proctected in the sun! You may also omit the water and use this as an
oil sealant with UV protectant properties.

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YOUR UV PROTECTANT SEALANT / SPRAY

Moringa oil is rich in oleic acid, which means that it’s nourishing
and moisturizing, while also giving your hair a smooth and silky
shine. It is highly resistant to oxidative degradation, which means
that it protects the hair against environmental pollutants and UV
radiation. Moreover, it offers conditioning to the hair and scalp, so
it doesn’t just help your hair fight off damage caused by UV rays,
it is also a great moisturizer, which your hair will need if you’re in
the sun a lot.

Argan oil and wheat germ oil is are source of unsaturated fatty
acids, such as linoleic, oleic, and linolenic acids. More importantly,
wheat germ is particularly rich in tocopherols, mainly γ- and
δ-tocopherol. All of the above-mentioned acids are known to have
significant UV-protectant properties.

Carrot seed oil is added due to its anti-inflammatory and anti-aging


profile. Almond oil is added for moisturization and silkiness.

All mentioned ingredients work together to protect your hair


against sun damage while keeping it moisturized, locking in
hydration, and imparting a silkiness to the strand.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

If you choose to make it a spray for easier application,


you will need to preserve the product with a preservative.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 100G SEALANT


Sealant Version
OR
1. Combine all oils in a mixing bowl or beaker. Omit the water.
200ML SPRAY
2. Add any essential oil of your choice (optional).
Water
3. Due to the pure concentration of oil, the product does not
100ml
have a pH so it doesn’t have to be balanced.
Moringa Oil
4. Store the sealant in a pump bottle. Apply to damp hair for
50 g
improved spreadibility.
Argan Oil
20 g
Spray Version
Wheat Germ Oil
1. Combine all oils and water in a mixing bowl or beaker.
10 g
2. Add any essential oil of your choice (optional).
Carrot Seed Oil
10 g
3. Add in lemon juice without pulp to blance the pH. Ensure the
formulation is at a pH level below 3.65. This will ensure the
Almond Oil
application does not damage the structure of your strands by
10 g
shifting its natural pH.
Potassium Sorbate
4. Dissolve potassium sorbate in a few drops of water and stir
1 g (optional)
into the mixture.
Lemon juice
5. Store the mixture in a spray bottle. Simply shake and spray
A few drops onto hair before sun exposure. You may reapply as a top up
for long days in the sun.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)

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SCALP TREATMENT FORMULATIONS

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SCALP EXFOLIATING TREATMENT

Skin exfoliation is an important step of a thorough cleansing process. It


removes the dead cells and other particles from the topmost surface of our
scalp. Those things usually turn our skin dull, scaly and dry and this isn’t just
limited to the skin on your face and body, it happens on your scalp as well.

Dead skin, sweat and pollution that stays on your scalp can easily
clog your pores which leads to hair loss and other inflamed scalp
conditions. If you get rid of residue like that, your scalp will immediately
become healthier and grow better hair. Alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g.
lactic acid or glycolic acid) are known for their exfoliation properties.
So, here is a recipe that is rich in alpha-hydroxy acids, moisturizing
agents and emollients fully sourced from natural ingredients.

This recipe uses organic acids from natural resources (yogurt & fruits) for
skin exfoliation. This is a common way of exfoliating your skin and making it
look nice and refreshed without requiring any mechanical force.

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YOUR SCALP EXFOLIATING TREATMENT

Yogurt contains an alpha-hydroxy acid called lactic acid which


is an excellent exfoliating agent as well as a moisturizer. It helps
your scalp maintain a healthy moisture barrier while also gently
exfoliating dead skin from the scalp’s surface.

Fresh Apple juice also contains alpha hydroxy acids which help to
gently dissolve dead skin off the scalp.

Honey is used to bring add a powerful dose of moisturising


and soothing capabilities to this formulation. Exfoliation can
sometimes cause sensitivities and the honey will sooth and
help protect the scalp from environmental stressors. It also
hydrates the scalp without creating an oily feel and it’s also full
of antioxidants to

Yogurt with it’s rich in lactic acid and minerals while apple juice
contains tartaric and malic acids. Mixing these acids with honey
creates a superb moisturizing paste full of highly nourishing
ingredients. If your scalp is dry, itchy and flaky, this paste will
target any irritation, dry skin, and bacteria growth which will
reduce your symptoms.

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Oatmeal powder is a good source of starch used for soothing


the skin surface. It’s also extremely moisturizing due to it’s high
content of B‑vitamins which act like humectants (a substance
that draws water in from the atmosphere). The powder also helps
thicken up the formula so to make the application more enjoyable.

Neem oil is an antibacterial powerhouse. It contains compounds


such as Mahmoodin and Nimbidin that can effectively kill bacteria
while providing anti-inflammatory and soothing effects. We use
this ingredient to give the formulation a gentle and calming touch
for even the most irritated scalps.

Turmeric is a traditional ingredient used in cooking. It has powerful


anti-inflammatory properties and helps to stimulate the follicles
and improve blood flow to the scalp.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This recipe is most effective when made fresh as


preservation will deactivate lactic acid activity. This means
the exfoliation properities will not work anymore. Please
prepare a fresh batch each time you require this treatment.

Oat powder may cause adverse effects for low-porosity


hair. Please avoid getting it on your strands to avoid
protein build up. If you have high-porosity hair, this
doubles up as a light protein treatment.

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PREPARATION

1. In a mixing bowl, add yoghurt, honey and freshly squeezed


MAKES 100G MASQUE
apple juice, and gently mix them together with a spoon.
Plain Yogurt
2. Add in the oat powder and mix gently until it becomes a
40 g
uniform paste. Please make sure to mix patiently to avoid any
bumpy textures.
Organic Honey
20 g
3. Add neem oil and turmeric powder.
Fresh Apple Juice
4. Test the pH of the mixture. Adjust with lemon juice until the
20 g
mixture is in a range of 4.50 -5.50.
Oat Powder
5. The end product should look like a paste. Leave it for 30
10 g
minutes in a cool and dry place.
Neem Oil
6. Apply this paste to clean hair. Massage it thoroughly into your
5g
scalp. If you wish to apply it to your ends, make sure to add a
few drops of lemon juice to bring the pH down to 3.00-3.50.
Turmeric Powder
5g
7. Leave it in for 15-20 minutes. Rinse off with warm water and
make sure to properly rinse all of the mixture from your hair
Fresh Lemon Juice
as any residue might weigh your hair down later.
4-5 drops

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NOURISHING SCALP TREATMENT

Healthy scalp means healthy hair. This is part of my haircare


philosophy and it’s overlooked by many of us when we are buying
hair care treatments. Sure, hair grows out of the scalp, but the scalp
itself is not hair, so dousing it in shampoo is not doing it any favors.

An unhealthy scalp may result in dryness, dandruff and, eventually, hair loss.
That’s why the scalp needs to be cleaned and conditioned properly! Things
like excessive use of shampoo, too hot water in the shower, environmental
conditions, stress and many other factors may cause quite severe dryness!

In order to prevent this, or fight back, we need to tackle the root cause while
also nourishing our scalp with this powerful scalp treatment.

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YOUR NOURISHING SCALP TREATMENT

Indian gooseberry oil (or Indian Amla Oil) and African baobab tree
oil are unique essential oils with unique properties that assist in
retaining hydration and firmness of the epidermis layer of the
skin. Additionally, they contribute anti-inflammatory effects which
are highly beneficial to your roots and may help reduce hair fall.
Together, they are an incredible hair health resource that can
soothe and treat your scalp gently!

Sweet almond, avocado & jojoba oils are used together in this
formulation for their lubricity, conditioning, skin regeneration,
healing and moisturizing properties.

Rosemary oil has intense anti-inflammatory and antibacterial


qualities. It’s a great addition to your scalp care routine and helps
prevent dandruff caused by excess sedum production while
preventing bacteria from damaging your scalp health.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

Rosemary oil is very potent and may cause hair loss or


irritation for sensitive scalps. If you know you’re sensitive
to oils, please leave this ingredient out.

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PREPARATION

1. Weigh all the oils in a mixing cup and mix them gently.
MAKES 36 OIL
2. Your product is ready to use immediately or can be stored in
Indian Amla Oil
a cool, dark and dry place for later use.
(Indian Gooseberry Oil)
10 g

Sweet Almond Oil


10 g

African Baobab Seed Oil


5g

Golden Jojoba Oil


5g

Avocado Oil
5g

Rosemary Oil
1g

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SCALP STIMULATING TREATMENT

This luxurious blend of oils makes for a perfect scalp treatment after a long
and stressful day. It’s aromatic and helps you destress, while also stimulating
blood flow to the scalp. It’s perfect for chilling and growing your hair at the
same time! The natural plant derived oils in this formulation contain special
medicinal properties from cleaning to moisturizing and even calming.

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YOUR SCALP STIMULATING TREATMENT

Lemon balm oil rich in polyphenols such as rosmarinic,


protocatechuic, caffeic, and chlorogenic acids, and derivatives of
hydroxycinnamic acid. It has remarkable antimicrobial and anti-
inflammatory to help with itchiness or dandruff. However, it’s
mainly used in this formulation for its soothing effect, helping to
relax the nerves in your scalp and allowing for more blood flow.

Olive oil is in this formulation because it’s highly anti-inflammatory,


helping to improve blood flow. It has been shown to activate
dormant hair follicles into an induced anagen phase.

Macadamia nut oil is one of the few plant oils that contain a high
content of palmitoleic acid. It’s extremely nourishing and helps
strengthen your hair follicles which inturn reduces hair loss. It’s a
bit of a pricey oil, but it’s worth it if you’re experiencing hair loss.

Rosemary oil is an anti-inflammatory, analgesic, antidepressant,


astringent and nerve stimulant. It’s used to stimulate blood flow
to the follicles.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

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PREPARATION

MAKES 60G OIL


1. Mix all ingredients in a bowl or beaker.
Olive Oil
2. Once the mixture is uniform, pour it into an airtight
25 g
bottle for storage or immediate use.
Grape Seed Oil
3. Apply a small amount to the scalp and massage in for
10 g
5-10 minutes. Rinse off with shampoo.
Macadamia Nut Oil
10 g

Lemon Balm Oil


10 g

Rosemary Oil
5g

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DRY & ITCHY SCALP TREATMENT

“The same way a plant can’t grow in bad soil, you can’t grow healthy
hair on an unhealthy scalp”. If you’ve been part of the Hair Growth Lab
Program, you’ll know just how important is it to have a healthy scalp.
Leaving a dry and itchy scalp untreated eventually leads to an extreme
case of hair loss that can take many months to heal and recover from.

This formulation is designed to be keep your scalp hydrated to combat


dryness while regulating bacterial growth to keep itchiness under control.
Scalp dryness and subsequent itchy sensations can have a myriad of causes.
They range from metabolic changes inside our bodies, all the way external
debris & allergies. To fight any external causes, we’ve turned to an arsenal
of natural ingredients. A combination of them will treat the external root
cause of the problem rather than just masking the symptoms.

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YOUR DRY & ITCHY SCALP TREATMENT

Yogurt is rich in lactic acid which is known for its exfoliation and
moisturising properties. It also contains protein which helps align
the cuticles of the hair shaft. Additionally, the lactic acid content
will help minimise scalp flaking. If you have low porosity, it is
recommended to keep this treatment away from your strands to
avoid protein build-up.

Onion juice is used in this formulation for its high content of


amino acids and vitamins. The onion-y smell comes from it’s high
sulfur content. Sulfur is also used in dandruff & scalp treatment
shampoos for it’s keratolytic, antibacterial and antifungal
properties.

Garlic is another good source of sulfur and other important


minerals such as selenium. Selenium relieves itching and flaking
of the scalp and helps disintegrate dry, scaly particles.

Tea tree oil has anti-infective, antiviral, antibacterial, and


anti-fungal properties. It’s a very strong essential oil and only a
tiny bit needs to be use for the desired effect.

Lavender oil is used in this formulation for two reasons. It’s


antiseptic and antimicrobial to help fight bacteria grow that
leads to itchiness. But it also has a potent scent which gives this
formulation a sweet aroma and will cover up the onion and garlic
aromas.

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A regular application of essential oils and nourishing ingredients


can help restore or maintain a healthy scalp. This very simple
yet very effective recipe uses onion & garlic as natural remedies
as they contain sulfur & selenium along with other active
compounds. In case your worried about the smell, don’t be. Onion
and garlic are diluted in water and we’ve added essential oils to
mask the smell even more.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

We recommend making this formulation from scratch


every time you want to use it. The treatment can be
stored in the fridge for up a week but it will be most
effective when made fresh.

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PREPARATION

1. Peel onion and garlic and place in a water bath for 2 hours.
MAKES 130G OF
TREATMENT
2. After 2 hours move both ingredients into a blender and
blend until smooth. Take a cheesecloth or fine strainer to
Greek Yoghurt
extract the liquid into a clean, medium sized bowl or glass
50 g
beaker. Dispose the leftover matter.
Onion Extract
3. In a separate bowl weigh out the yoghurt and add garlic,
20 g
onion extract and tea tree oil. Stir gently until combined.
Garlic Extract
4. If you can’t handle the garlic or onion smell, you may use
10 g
an essential oil to help make the treatment more pleasant
to use. If you are sensitive to oils or essential oils, it’s
Water
recommended to skip this step.
50mL
5. Test the pH of the mixture. Adjust with lemon juice until the
Tea Tree Oil
mixture is in a range of 4.5-5.5.
2g
6. Use immediately or store the mixture in an airtight container
Fragrant Essential Oil
in the fridge for up to a week.
A few drops (optional)
7. Apply the mixture generously to the scalp. Leave on for at
Lemon Juice
least 30 minutes to allow the formulation to dissolve any dry
A few drops
flakes and fight bacterial growth on your scalp.

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ANTI-HAIR LOSS TREATMENT WITH DHT BLOCKER

Talking about hair loss treatments always leaves a slight aftertaste in my


mouth. It’s just been used way too much by dubious hair care companies
to capitalise on one of our biggest insecurities. So I want to preface this by
saying that this is not a magic potion and it’s just one of many things you
can try to reduce hair loss. I go into way more detail on this topic inside the
program so for now please look at this formulation as just an additional tool
in your Hair Growth Lab toolbox. We’ve formulated this recipe to stimulate
the scalp, deliver nutrients and heal weakened follicles.

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THE SCIENCE BEHIND


YOUR ANTI-HAIR LOSS TREATMENT

Lemon Balm is antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, decongestant,


and soothing which helps reduce irritation while unclogging the
follicles.

Ginger oil contains volatile oil containing gingerols and glycosides


of gingerdiol. It is an excellent anti-inflammatory agent used to
improve overall scalp health.

Avocado Oil is known for its skin and scalp healing properties.
The acid composition inside avocado oil has shown to promote
collagen production which is essential to firmly anchor our hairs
follicles.

Olive oil contains 60-70% oleic acid and Avocado oil also has
around 70% unsaturated content. This makes them a good
choice to block DHT. DHT is an androgen (male sex hormone)
which is made from testosterone. DHT binds to receptors in your
hair follicles, causing the follicle to shrink. By blocking DHT, it’s
therefore possible to prevent hair loss. However, these results
are highly personal.

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IMPORTANT NOTES

This formulation is 100% oil based so you don’t need


any preservatives to store it for a long time. Just make
sure to use a sterile container and keep in a cool, dry
and dark place.

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PREPARATION

1. Combine all ingredients in a medium sized bowl and mix


MAKES 102G TREATMENT
them gently until well combined
Olive Oil
2. Your product is ready!
70 g
3. Apply to scalp and massage for 5 minutes. Rinse as usual.
Lemon Balm Oil
15 g

Ginger Oil
12 g

Avocado Oil
5g

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