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Luxury Haircare Formulation Guide - Hair Growth Lab - Anna's Archive
Luxury Haircare Formulation Guide - Hair Growth Lab - Anna's Archive
LUXURY HAIRCARE
FORMULATION GUIDE
TREATMENTS FOR BE T TER HAIR
1
Hair Growth Lab Disclaimer
•••
Copyright © Hair Growth Lab by Holinic 2020
2
HAIR GROWTH L AB
LUXURY HAIRCARE
FORMULATION GUIDE
TREATMENTS FOR BETTER HAIR
3
4
H A IR GROW T H L A B
TABLE OF CONTENTS
32
7 HOW TO STORE YOUR
ABOUT THIS GUIDE RAW MATERIALS
9 36
QUICK NOTES THE ECONOMICS OF DIY HAIRCARE
12 40
WHY FORMUL ATE SUBSTITUTE INGREDIENTS
YOUR OWN PRODUCTS?
43
14 SHAMPOO FORMUL ATIONS
INGREDIENTS AND ITEMS TO
ALWAYS HAVE AT HOME 87
CONDITIONER & MASQUE
20 FORMUL ATIONS
STORING YOUR FORMUL ATIONS
113
22 PROTEIN TREATMENT
THE IDEAL DISPENSERS FOR FORMUL ATIONS
YOUR FORMUL ATIONS
139
26 DE TANGLER
HOW TO MAKE DIY HAIRCARE FORMUL ATIONS
L AST LONGER
153
SEAL ANTS, OILS AND LEAVE-IN
30 TREATMENT FORMUL ATIONS
HOW TO MAKE
YOUR OWN E X TRACTS 173
SCALP TREATMENT FORMUL ATIONS
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The hair you’ve always wanted is already within you and the motivation you need
to achieve it is overflowing! All that’s missing now are the right tools, methods and
formulations that will take your hair to the next level. I’ve spent most of my adult
life meticulously collecting these methods. In recent years, I took those methods
a step further, perfecting them with testing and guidance from certified chemists
and biochemists. These methods and formulations have served me well, and I
hope they go on to transform your hair as much as they have transformed mine.
This guide is best used in conjunction with the Hair Growth Lab Program, but may also
work on it’s own. The most effective results will be seen after you tweak the recipes
and use the right combination, ratios and amounts of certain ingredients for your hair
profile. In order to do this, it’s recommended to complete a hair profile assessment
and understand the implications of your unique situation. With testing and tweaking,
you’ll eventually have a fully customised routine made for your unique hair situation.
You’ve got a long journey ahead, but I promise it’s a lot of fun!
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Some
QUICK NOTES
As you learn which formulations work for your hair, and as you
tweak them to perfection, it is highly recommended to make
your products in large batches. This brings down the cost of each
product and saves you time over the long-term. This guide will
also cover preservation and storage in the following pages. This
will allow you to safely keep your products for up to 12 months.
In a world where convenience is king, it’s becoming less and less common for
people to make their own stuff. People are cooking less and less. They’re ordering
take out more and more. All our daily needs can be ordered straight to our doors.
out of shampoo? Just hop on Amazon, press a few buttons and... BAM, you have shampoo
at your door in less than 24 hours.
In a world where you can have everything at the press of a button, it’s hard to imagine why
some would choose to make their own haircare. If you got hold of this formulations guide,
then I’m guessing you’ve already decided that making your own products is the right thing
to do.
If you’re here but you’re not fully convinced yet, let me share a few key reasons why making
your own hair care matters more than ever in this day and age.
Reclaiming Control
Any coffee lovers here? If you are one, I bet you have a preference for how you like your
beans roasted. Maybe you even have a type of roast from a specific region. Maybe you like
having your coffee with only a dash of a certain kind of milk. If you were to buy a coffee off
the shelf, chances are it’s not made exactly how you would like it. It might have too much
milk, the roast isn’t made the way you like it. The coffee jjujst doesn’t satisfy you in the
same way as your favourite coffee.
It’s the same with haircare. If you opt for store-bought products, you have no control over
how the product is made. It can never perfectly fit your personal preferences. There is
always a little too much or this or too little of that. That’s why it’s so hard to find the perfect
product for you. The only way to have your ideal product is by making it yourself and
tweaking it until it gives you the results you want. Just like your morning coffee at home.
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Most store-bought products are filled with ingredients that make the product more
pleasant to use. Those ingredients help to give products a better consistency or
make it smell like flowers. Unfortunately, these pleasant features come at a cost.
For example, Sodium Chloride is your common table salt. It’s widely used in
haircare to thicken up shampoos and conditioners. Unfortunately, salt is terribly
drying for your hair. Additionally, synthetic fragrance makes your product smell
nice but it’s incredibly drying and potentially irritating if you have a sensitive scalp.
When you make your own products, YOU get to choose if those characteristics
are worth sacrificing the health of your strands over.
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In order to be profitable, many hair care manufacturers opt for cheap and
synthetic ingredients. It makes products more affordable but you end up paying
for it with your hair. Aloe vera is an incredible ingredient for hair care. However,
manufacturers will use synthetic gels and liquids that act like aloe vera. But they
come with side effects that aloe vera simply wouldn’t have. If you decide to make
your own products, you have full control over the quality of the ingredients. You
can choose to use fresh ingredients and natural essential oils rather than toxic
and synthetic lab-made compounds.
DIY haircare is definitely not as convenient as buying off the shelf. But making your
products at home are definitely convenient for your hair and the environment.
From the points above, it’s clear that mass-produced haircare is simply not good
for you or the planet. Your hair and the world will benefit if you incorporate more
DIY haircare in your routine. It requires extra time and effort, but it will certainly
pay off the longer you commit to it. You’ll save the environment and you’ll save
your hair.
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As you embark on your haircare formulation journey, you’ll need to make sure you
always have your toolkit ready. Let me run you through some items you should always
have on hand when making your own product at home.
pH Testing Strips
The pH level is the make or break of any DIY product (or store bought product,
really). The products you formulate need to be within a specific pH range in order
to be effective and safe for your hair.
All scalp products require a pH of 4.50-5.50 for optimal scalp health. If the pH of
your scalp products is not alkaline enough (that means it’s less than 4.50), it won’t
be able to kill the bacteria on your scalp. This is especially important if you make
shampoo. If the pH is too alkaline, then it will cause damage to your scalp and lead
to other issues such as excess oiliness and hair loss.
Products that are applied to your strands will require a different pH level. For
optimal hair health, your products will require a pH of 3.00 - 3.50. If the pH is too
high (that means it’s more than 3.50), damage starts to occur on the hair shaft and
your hair loses it’s ability to hold moisture and becomes very dry. If it’s too low, the
cuticle will close too tightly, restricting moisture from entering or leaving the shaft.
To ensure your homemade products are in the correct pH range for your scalp
(4.50-5.50) and your hair (3.00 - 3.50), you should always have a packet of pH
strips at hand when making your own haircare. They are only a few dollars for a
100 strips, so it’s a very worthwhile investment!
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Lactic Acid
If you struggle with super frizzy hair, make sure to always have a little bottle of lactic
acid in your toolkit. Lactic acid helps relax and smooth down the cuticles of the
hair, helping seal in moisture while making hair more manageable and less frizzy.
You can add it to your homemade and even your store bought hair masks. For
a hair mask, use no more than 5 drops of a 10% lactic acid formulation or 2
tablespoons of yoghurt if you prefer to go natural.
Lemon
Lemon contains citric acid which has a pH level between 2 and 3. This makes it a
great natural ingredient to bring down the pH level of your formulations. Whenever
your product is too alkaline, add a few drops of lemon juice to balance it out.
Aloe vera is a must in every DIY haircare toolkit. It’s very affordable and serves as
humectant, lubricant and a pH balancing agent. It also helps improve the texture
of your DIY products. Fresh aloe vera is best, however, it’s always good to keep a
tub as well as a fresh plant at home.
BTMS is an emulsifier that is naturally obtained from grapeseed oil. It gives your
formulations a beautiful consistency. It’s an effective aid for detangling your hair and still
light enough to use in leave-in conditioners. The number ‘25’ refers to the percentage
of the conditioning agent Behentrimonium Methosulfate. It can be 25 or 50. You can
experiment with both kinds, the higher the number the lower the percentage of Cetearyl
Alcohol which is a fatty alcohol (i.e. not harmful for your hair) that helps moisturize
dry hair. The final product might also turn out thinner but that shouldn’t impact its
effectiveness.
Essential oils
If you like to have lovely smelling products, be sure to keep a few bottles of your favourite
essential oils at home. Please note that products with essential oils should not come in
contact with the scalp due to risk of irritation. If you want to go completely fragrance
free, then you don’t have to worry about this step.
The more effective formulations will be the ones that contain the right ingredients for
your hair profile. Porosity is an important factor to keep note of and you should use an
oils with the right fatty acid composition for your hair’s porosity level. You can learn all
about which oils are for you in the Hair Growth Lab program.
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Panthenol
Wheat Protein
The more effective formulations will be the ones that contain the right ingredients
If you have high porosity hair, adding hydrolyzed wheat protein to your products
is a quick and easy way to fill up your porous strands and give it more structure
and moisture retention properties. If you have low porosity hair, then you can skip
this ingredient.
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These are the most readily available glass containers and are
the most affordable too. However, they do not block out UV
rays which means the product stored inside is at risk of speedy
oxidation. If you choose to use clear glass, please make sure to
be super vigilant with keeping your products in a dark place and
out of the sunlight.
Ultraviolet Glass
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The benefits of DIY haircare are endless. But if there’s one thing that holds us back
from making our own haircare, it’s the confusing art of preserving them. The good
news is, there are many simple ways to make your DIY haircare last longer. Let’s
shine a light on some of the most effective ones.
Use a Preservative
When it comes to using a preservative, I recommend using only the most natural
ones. My preferred preservative is potassium sorbate which is considered to be
very mild and non-irritating.
If you prefer to go even more natural, you may use essential oils such as rosemary
oil (.5% of the mixture) as well as oils high in antioxidants (Jojoba and Vitamin E).
Another useful addition is Grapefruit Seed Oil which is antimicrobial and it can be
added to oil formulations to reduce the rate at which they oxidise.
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Tap water adds bacteria to your formulations which can massively shortens its
shelf life. If you chose to use water, opt for distilled water. However, even if it’s
distilled, you will likely need a preservative to prevent bacteria from growing.
If you don’t use water at all and make a 100% oil-based formulation, then you can
store it in an air-tight jar for a long time without any issues. It’s only when water is
added that you need to add a preservative.
Wash your hands thoroughly before getting to work on your products. Disinfect
any tools and surfaces you plan to use to minimise any risk of contaminating the
product. If bacteria gets in your product, it will start going rancid a lot faster. Make
sure to wash your containers with soap and then boil them in a water bath before
you start making a new batch of product. Be sure to let them dry completely before
filling them up.
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If you don’t plan on adding preservatives, keeping your haircare inside the fridge
is the easiest, safest and fastest way to keep it lasting longer. Most products won’t
last more than 3-5 days so make sure to check that they haven’t spoiled before
you use them.
As you work through the formulations in this guide, you’ll often find that you need
extracts as part of the ingrediets list. Most of the times you can purchase those
extracts online but they are actually really easy to make at home. In this guide I’ll
tell you how. We recommend making just as much as you need to avoid having to
preserve your high grade extracts.
Chamomile Extract
Cucumber Extract
Chop a washed unpeeled cucumber into 0.5 cm pieces and blend it until you
have a smooth liquid. Place a cheesecloth in a strainer and set it in a bowl. Pour
the liquid into the strainer. What comes out on the other side is your cucumber
extract, redy to be used.
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Use a fresh aloe leaf from a plant, first cut off one of the outer leaves from the base
of the plant. Wash it well, removing any dirt, and then stand it upright in a cup or
bowl for 10–15 minutes. This allows the yellow-tinted resin to drain out of the leaf.
The resin contains latex, which can irritate your skin, so completing this step is important.
After the resin has drained completely, wash off any remains on the leaf and peel
off the thick skin using a small knife or vegetable peeler. Once the leaf has been
peeled, you will see the natural aloe vera gel. Using a small spoon, scoop it into
your blender. Be careful not to include any pieces of the aloe vera skin. Blend the
gel until it’s frothy and liquefied, which should only take a few seconds. Your gel
is ready to use.
Onion Extract
Place the a peeled onion in a water bath. Make sure its completly submersed. After
2 hours move the onion into a blender (without the water) and blend it until you
have a uniform mixture with few to no visible chunks. Use a cheese cloth or very
fine strainer to seperate the onion from it’s liquid. If you don’t have a fine strainer,
make sure to not bled the onion too much. Your extract is ready for use.
Take a pot and add 1L water to 7 Tbs of loose green tea. Steep at room temperature
for 1 hour. Seperate the leaves from the extract using a strainer. Dispose of the
leaves. Your extract is ready.
There are a lot of factors that cause oxidation, the ones most
relevant to use are oxidation caused by oxygen and oxidation
caused by UV. UV rays oxidise organic components in water
while oxygen also oxidises oils. Based on those factors
here are a few things you can do to keep your precious raw
material safe (this also applies to your final products btw).
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Dry Place
Dark Place
Clean Containers
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This is a must for all oils. Make sure to close all bottles
tightly after every use to keep the oils from going bad. They
do last longer than ingredients that contain water but you
don’t need to risk it.
Keep It Raw
If you go on Youtube and look for DIY hair masks, what you’ll often find are homemade
treatments that use groceries for their active ingredients. For example, yoghurt for
lactic acid or eggs for their fatty acids and protein. For this reason, homemade DIY
recipes end up with a reputation of being remedies that aren’t all that fun to use
and make. The formulations in this guide follow a different method and philosophy.
They are luxurious formulations made with raw and natural ingredients. Although
some recipes will contain food products, they will mostly be kept at a minimum.
As you work through this guide, you might find yourself thinking that it’s cheaper to
buy a shampoo than to buy all the ingredients to make one. I’ve included this section
to clear up some of the misconceptions and explain the economics of DIY haircare
and how it saves your wallet. For reference, let’s use the Living Proof PhD Shampoo
which is a high-performance shampoo. Right now it retails at around $28 for 8 Oz.
Together with a haircare chemist, we’ve formulated a shampoo that is inspired by this
product. Now lets do the math for the DIY shampoo you can find in this guide.
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Sometimes you can’t just pay the exact amount you need for your shampoo so you might end up
spending a total of $84.80 for all the raw ingredients. Let’s go a little deeper. Reetha and Shikakai
are amongst the most expensive ingredients here based on how much you need and the price
per quantity. So without going back and reordering more Reetha and Shikakai, you could make this
formulation 4 times. So it’s actually more like $84,80/4 which is $21,20 but you’ll also get around 16
FL Oz/1L of product each time you make it. That’s double of what you get with Living Proof.
Overall you will likely pay around this much per bottle.
That’s a difference of almost $20. You can also reuse those ingredients in other formulations.
For example, ingredients such as Potassium Sorbate, Essential Oil, Almond Oil, Dried Chamomile
Flowers and Amla can be used for a variety of different formulations in this guide. They also last a
very long time.
Additionally, not every ingredient there needs to be used in your formation. Some are optional and
may not be relevant to your hair profile.
You don’t want to spend on preservatives? Don’t worry they are optional as long as you make the
product fresh, store it appropriately and use it fast. Don’t want to spend on an emulsifier? I’ve made
it optional and left a note on what the consequences are of not using it. This way its up to you to
decide where to trade off savings vs. convenience.
SUBSTITUTE INGREDIENTS
We all have different allergies and preferences when it comes to certain ingredients.
The table on the right shows you which ingredients can be substituted and what to
substitute them with.
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SHAMPOO FORMULATIONS
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This deep clean herbal shampoo is a very gentle hair cleansing formulation that
effectively cleans all the dirt, bacteria and product residue from our hair without
stripping it of its natural oils. We’re using several kinds of soap nuts and a coconut
derived surfactant to ensure the deepest of cleanses without requiring a sulphate or
harsh detergent. To keep it as natural as possible, this product is formulated without
any synthetic thickeners or viscosity boosters.
Reetha & Shikakai are two plants proven to have hair cleansing
properties. Reetha is also known as Indian Soap Nut because of the
high levels of saponins present in its extracts. Leaving both these
plants to soak in water ends up generating a lot of foam, so they
are a great addition to your shampoo.
For hair conditioning, we are adding sweet almond oil. This is a great
way of nourishing your hair strands during the cleansing process.
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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
• Steel spatula or spoon
IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
MAKES 1L SHAMPOO 1. Put all three powders, chamomile dried flowers, ginger roots
and lemon peel in a glass jar and soak them in warm water.
Water The water mustn’t be too hot as you don’t want to scald the
850ml herbs. Leave them in the water for 24 hours.
Amla (Indian Gooseberry) Dried 2. After your mixture has been soaking for 24 hours, stir it gently
Raw Fruit Powder and filter the liquid using a kitchen tea strainer or cotton
50g fabric. Make sure to catch all big chunks and solid particles.
We want our shampoo to be completely smooth.
Reetha (Indian Soap Nut) Dried
Raw Fruit Powder 3. Add coco-glucoside to the mixture and stir gently to avoid
50g foam formation. Add almond oil and gently combine.
Potassium Sorbate
3 g (optional)
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This shampoo is formulated to keep your oiliness at bay and is especially suited for oily
scalp types. It’s an effective but mild cleanser that won’t strip your scalp of it’s natural
oils and prevents your scalp from overproducing oil in between your next wash. We’ve
left out all harmful foaming agents so you might notice that it won’t foam as much as
store-bought shampoos. However, it won’t affect the efficacy or effectiveness of the
formulation. The foaming properties of shampoos are purely cosmetic and can be
harmful to an oily and flaky scalp. If you want some bubbling action, don’t forget to
use your scalp massager when using this formulation.
Sweet almond oil is our potent emollient boosting hair slip and
shine.
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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1L, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
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We’ve combined the zero-waste and gentle cleansing philosophy in the Bar Minimum
Conditioning Shampoo Bar. This zero-waste shampoo bar is completely natural
and gentle so you can save the environment and your hair at the same time. You
see, store-bought shampoo bars aren’t as healthy as they sound. They tend to be
manufactured just like hand soap bars, which are usually corrosive and damaging
for hair. However, they’re becoming more popular because they create zero waste.
This formulation is perfect for sensitive scalp types as we’ve only included the absolute
necessary ingredients needed to do a great cleansing job. The shampoo bar is solely
made of natural oils converted into a bar of soap using sodium hydroxide. In our
recipe below, all oils are naturally sourced and are blended with Panthenol which is
added to restore your hairs strength, shine and smoothness. The recipe is a bit more
difficult to make as you’ll have to cook the mixture and then cool it inside a mould but
it’s going to be worth it.
Coconut Oil is high in lauric acid which is the main base of the
bar and is responsible for the bar’s hardnes. Coconut oil also
adds natural cleansing and foaming properties to the bar. If your
hair doesn’t agree with coconut oil, you can use olive oil instead.
However, olive oil will produce a much softer bar.
Castor & Shea Butter are used in this formulation for both their
emollient properties as well as their beautiful and soft texture.
Castor oil, in particular, enhances fibre surface properties, shine
and helps in align your hair’s cuticle. Both are added in this recipe
to provide conditioning properties.
Sweet Almond & Hemp Seed Oils have the perfect fatty acid
profile for providing additional smoothness and easier detangling
during the shampooing process..
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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Thermometer
• Plastic spoons
• Scale
IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
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One of the main concerns around making your own haircare products at home is the
complicated process of turning a bunch of raw ingredients into a finished product. To
make this process simpler, we’ve formulated the Super Quick & Easy Shampoo which
contains only 6 ingredients. Due to it’s simplicity, it won’t target specific concerns. It’s a
simple shampoo with limited cleansing power, making it perfect for when you need to
wash your hair often but you don’t want to damage your scalp from regular cleansing.
If you’re sweating daily or working in the hospital and you need to shampoo your hair
daily, this one is perfect for you.
Orange juice is added here for its polyphenols and citric acid,
which provide additional cleansing properties and maintain the
balance of pH our scalp and hair needs.
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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Large pot
• pH test strips
IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
1. Pour hot water into a bowl and slowly sift in reetha powder
MAKES 1L SHAMPOO
while continously stirring until completely combined.
Water
2. Add chamomile extract, orange juice and a few drops of
890 ml
essential oil to your liking, mixing after each step.
Reetha (Indian soapberry nuts)
3. Next, add a few drops of your favourite essential oil to give
Powder
your shampoo a nice scent.
50g
4. If you’re planning to store your shampoo for more than
Chamomile flower extract (non-
one week, then add potassium sorbate at this step. Simply
alcoholic)
dissolve it in a few drops of water and add to the mixture.
50g
5. Use pH test strips to test the shampoo. Adjust the mixture
One medium sized orange (freshly
with orange juice until it has reached a pH of 4.50 - 5.50.
squeezed, no pulp or seeds)
10ml
6. Strain the mixture through a fine strainer or cheese cloth and
store in a sterile bottle. Shake gently before use.
Potassium Sorbate
3g
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Dry shampoos are a convenient way to give your hair a boost of freshness without
having to go through the normal process of shampooing your hair. They give you the
freedom to basically skip the washing, cleansing, conditioning and drying for another
day. This is perfect if you’re strapped for time or you’re trying to reduce the number
of times you expose your hair to the harmful ingredients found in regular shampoos.
Unlike store-bought dry shampoos which are often filled with other equally harmful
compounds and come in aerosol cans (which are terrible for the environment and for
your hair), this formulation is completely natural. We’re using almond powder blended
with fruit powders and essential oils to give your hair a clean look and feel, toxin-free!
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IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
MAKES 1KG DRY 1. Mix almond powder, oat starch and dry lemon fruit powder in
SHAMPOO a bowl.
Almond powder (fine) 2. Add a few drops of a essential oil to scent your product
485g (optional). Combine well. Don’t use too much oil otherwise the
powder may become grainy
Oat starch
485g 3. Store an air tight container and place it in a cool and dry
place. You can freeze also the powder to ensure no bacterial
Dry Lemon fruit powder growth or spoiling.
30g
4. Dust a generous amount of dry shampoo powder onto your
Fragrant Essential Oil scalp. Massage in for 2 minutes and leave it on your scalp
A few drops (optional) for another 5 minutes. This will allow the powders to absorb
sebum. Dust off the excess and you’re good to go.
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The most important task for every shampoo is to cleanse while maintaining a healthy
scalp. This shampoo is formulated to target the problem areas of Hair Growth and
Hair Retention. If you’re struggling with dandruff or excess oiliness which leads to hair
loss, then definitely give this shampoo a try! Additionally, this shampoo helps stimulate
more hair growth due to its caffeine content, so it is perfect for those looking for
longer and denser hair. The recipe contains green coffee powder blended with Indian
soapberry nuts. Coffee is loaded with antioxidants and soapberry nuts provide a mild
cleansing abilitiy. We’ve also added onion extract which is full of sulfur to maintain a
healthy scalp.
Lemon Juice is highly acidic. A few drops are used to balance the
pH of this formulation.
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IMPORTANT NOTES
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PREPARATION
MAKES 1L SHAMPOO 1. Mix reetha powder in a bowl with warm water until it’s
completely combined. Then add the coffee powder and mix
Warm water again.
890mL
2. Add onion extract to the mixture and stir to combine.
Reetha (Indian soapberry nuts)
Powder 3. Add an essential oil to the treatment to give it your preferred
50g scent (optional).
Green coffee powder 4. Add potassium sorbate to preserve the batch. Stir until
50g dissolved.
Onion extract (non-alcoholic) 5. Check the pH level and adjust with lemon juice until it has
10g reached a pH of 4.50 - 5.50.
Potassium Sorbate 6. Strain the mixture and store in an airtight glass bottle.
3g
7. Shake the product gently before every use to make sure the
Fragrant Essential Oil ingredients are well combined.
A few drops (optional)
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This formulation is for all the hair bleachers, the blondies and anyone who
enjoys highlights in their hair. Bleached hair is always going to be weaker
and more fragile than virgin hair. This means it needs extra care to stay
healthy. Unfortunately, bleaching normally requires you to apply even
more damaging products to keep up the look. One of the most frustrating
downsides of lifting your hair colour is the brassy tones that accompany it.
Lifting your hair colour is quite damaging in itself, and having to cover up
the brassy tones with a store-bought purple toners adds to the damage. In
my own search for a healthier purple toner, my chemist and I came up with
the Non-Drying Purple Shampoo formulation. A gentle shampoo that fights
back against those dreaded brassy tones without drying out your strands.
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RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
IMPORTANT NOTES
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H A IR GROW T H L A B
PREPARATION
Potassium Sorbate
2 g (optional)
Lemon juice
few drops to balance pH
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EDTA tetrasodium is a water softening agent which chelates hard water metals such
as calcium and magnesium and improves water wetting ability to for better cleansing.
It can also remove tiny metals that are stuck to your hairs shaft. Once removed you’ll
notice how much shinier your hair has gotten. This is totally optional and only needed
if you have extremely hard water.
Guar gum is a natural thickener used in food and cosmetics formulations to boost
the viscosity of the product. It is rich in natural starch and improves your hair’s overall
appearance and texture.
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate is the base of our product. This
compound is what emulsifies and stabilizes the formulation. It’s highly moisturising
and gives the conditioner loads of slip.
Hydrolyzed wheat protein penetrates the hair fiber and fills broken protein bonds
causes by UV, chemicals, heat, styling or other external factors in order to restore
shine and structure.
90 L U X URY H A IRCA RE
H A IR GROW T H L A B
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
• Steel spatula or spoon
• Scale
IMPORTANT NOTES
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H A IR GROW T H L A B
PREPARATION
1. Fill the sink up with cold water. You’ll need this water bath for
MAKES 1KG OF cooling your formulation.
CONDITIONER
2. Dissolve EDTA in water and stir until completely dissolved.
Water This step is completely optional and can be skipped if you do
750L not have hard water or would like to keep the conditioner
simple. If you skip this step simply proceed with regular water.
EDTA
0.5 g 3. Add glycerin and guar gum to the liquid and gently mix
together to make a paste. Transfer the mixture to a saucepan.
Vegetablel Glycerin
25 g 4. In a separate saucepan, combine shea butter, argan oil,
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate and
Guar Gum panthenol.
10 g
5. At the same time, heat up both saucepans. Heat the glycerin
Natural Shea Butter and guar gum paste until it reaches a temperature of 70
25 g degrees celcius. Alongside this, heat up the oil mixture just
enough to melt all the solids into a liquid.
Argan Oil
5g 6. As soon as the paste reaches 70 degrees celcius, pour the
oil mixture into the paste mixture. Combine them using a
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) blender or hand mixer for 2 minutes (120 seconds).
Behentrimonium Methosulfate
50 g 7. Take a spoon and gently stir the mixture for another 20
seconds to release any air bubbles that formed during the
Panthenol blending step.
2.5 g
8. Place the bowl in the water bath while gently mixing until your
Hydrolyzed wheat protein batch cools down to 40 – 45 degrees celcius.
10 g
9. Add the wheat protein and combine gently.
Potassium Sorbate
5 g dissolved in 10ml of water 10. Dissolve potassium sorbate in 10ml of water. Once it has
completely dissolved, add this solution to the main batch and
Fragrant Essential Oil gently combine.
A few drops (optional)
11. Add a few drops of essential oil (optional).
Fresh Lemon Juice
A few drops 12. Check the pH of your batch using pH strips. Bring the formula
down to 3.00 – 3.50 by adding small portions of lemon juice,
checking and testing again until it’s adjusted.
13. Allow the conditioner to settle down overnight. You may safely
use it after 24 hours. Apply to freshly shampooed medium-
high porosity hair to add structure and shine.
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H A IR GROW T H L A B
This nourishing hair mask is a super blend of organic oils that provide
excellent slip, lubricity and penetration. It’s a mix of sealing and penetrating
oils which you may adjust to your hair type. The mix of oils delivers a
powerful punch of minerals to nourish your scalp.
Coconut oil is full of lauric acid, and will penetrate the hair shaft
to deeply nourishing the hair and protect it during the cleansing
process.
Meadowfoam seed oil and argan oil are primary added for a dose
of nutrients to the scalp. While they also help keep the hair silky,
smooth and moisturized, they are also very beneficial to our scalp.
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IMPORTANT NOTES
98 L U X URY H A IRCA RE
H A IR GROW T H L A B
PREPARATION
MAKES 70G 1. Combine all oils and shea butter in a medium sized bowl. If
the coconut oil or shea butter are solid you can do this step
Coconut Oil in small saucepan over low heat.
25 g
2. Add a few drops of a essential oil to scent your product and
Organic Shea Butter combine well.
25 g
3. Use this product the same way you’d use regular conditioner
Sweet Almond Oil and wash it off after 5-10 minutes.
10 g
4. Store any leftover product in a sterile and air tight container.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil The formulation is 100% oil based and doesn’t require any
5g preservatives.
Argan Oil
5g
Dry and dull hair is a major concern for most of us. Hair loses its moisture
content due to harsh chemical treatments and exposure to environmental
stressors. In both cases, our hair becomes more static, rougher and frizzier.
This is even more prominent at at the tips of our hair where our hair is more
damaged and fragile. We formulated an All-Natural Moisturizing Hair Mask
to bring back your hair’s luscious healthy look.
Aloe vera gel is used as a hydrating base for this formulation. The
gel is rich in polysaccharides, proteins and minerals which provide
the perfect balance of hydration, strength and nourishment for
your hair.
India amla oil ‘s fatty acid composition gives this formulation extra
shine properties. This is optional and can be replaced with your
favourite penetrating oil.
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 1-2 small beakers)
IMPORTANT NOTES
Try to use freshly obtained aloe vera gel for this recipe.
Please don’t use this product mixture if your scalp
is sensitive, inflamed, damaged or has a high level of
dandruff. Keep in mind your hair’s porosity when making
this mask and replace coconut oil with a less penetrating
oil if you have medium to low porosity.
PREPARATION
Cucumber Extract
10 g
Potassium Sorbate
(optional)
0.25 g
Olive oil and jojoba oils are both sealing and penetrating oils.
This will ensure hydration stays in the strand after washing while
adding lubrication, shine and managability to your hair.
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
MAKES 1L OF
1. Combine water, olive oil, jojoba oil, both extracts and ACV in a
CONDITIONER
bowl or beaker. Stirring gently until all combined.
Water
2. If you’d like to preserve this formulation, add potassium
600 ml
sorbate to the mixture and stir until completely dissolved.
Olive oil
3. Check the pH of the formula and adjust it with additional
100 ml
drops of ACV until it reaches 4.50 - 5.50.
Jojoba oil
4. Transfer the product into an air-tight bottle and close it.
100 ml
Shake the mixture heavily until the concoction becomes a
uniform colour. Your conditioner is ready for use!
Green tea extract
100 ml
5. Due to the lack of emulifiers, the oil and water will separate.
Just make sure to give the bottle a nice shake before use.
Chammomile extract
100 ml
Potassium Sorbate
2g (optional)
Yogurt is rich in minerals and protein, and it’s slightly acidic due
to it’s lactic acid content (pH 4.00 – 4.50). The certain minerals,
protein and lactic acid come together for a perfect base for this
light protein treatment. It’s not only an amazing moisturizing
agent, but also a great scalp nourishing treatment.
Castor oil is used to help seal the hair shaft once the treatment
is washed off.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
MAKES 45G MASQUE 1. Weigh out the yogurt in a mixing cup. Add castor oil and
meadowfoam seed oil and mix well.
Plain Yogurt
25 g 2. Once your mixture is smooth, add hydrolyzed wheat protein.
Castor Oil 3. Leave this mixture in a cool, dry place for 30 minutes to allow
5g the protein to combine with the yoghurt.
Meadowfoam Seed Oil 4. Apply your protein treatment on unwashed hair. Use a brush
10 drops to spread the mixture evenly through your strands. Leave on
for 15 - 20 minutes.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
5g 5. Rinse off the mixture thoroughly with warm water. Make sure
no product residue stays on your hair as excess protein left
Fresh Lemon Juice on your hair will result in stiffness.
A few drops
6. Follow up with shampoo and apply a leave-in conditioner for
the best effect.
Hair damage is a major concern for all of us, but especially for those of us
who spend a lot of time in the sun or have bleached, colored, straightened or
permed hair. These heat and chemical applications cause significant damage
to your hair structure, breaking the keratin bonds inside the hair shaft.
Protein loss leads directly to hair breakage, poor moisture retention and
dull, frizzy and rough looking hair. To restore your hair’s natural virgin looks,
deep conditioning and high-strength protein treatments are required. If you
have high porosity hair, this treatment is for you! This formulation delivers
several protein molecules with different molecular weights. They penetrate
and attach to various crosslinks of the hair fiber, restoring mechanical
strength and making your hair stronger and more resistant to breakage.
Lemon juice contains citric acid which ensures a friendly hair and
scalp pH level.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
MAKES 110G 1. Place yoghurt in a medium sized cup along with honey
and egg.
Plain Yogurt
50 g 2. Add melted coconut oil, castor oil and meadowfoam
seed oil into the yogurt and mix until the consistency is
Raw Honey even and the oil is well combined with the yogurt.
20 g
3. Once the mixture is smooth, add hydrolyzed wheat
Egg protein, hydrolyzed soy protein and hydrolyzed silk
1 protein. Mix until it’s combined into a smooth texture.
This can take some time but please be patient and
Natural Coconut Oil (Unrefined) gentle to ensure no clumps.
10 g
4. Check the pH level of the product and if required,
Castor Oil adjust it to 3.00 - 3.50 by adding a few drops of fresh
10 g lemon juice. Only a few will do, otherwise the mixture
becomes too acidic. As this recipe uses yogurt, it’s best
Meadowfoam Seed Oil to make a fresh batch when needed. Potassium sorbate
5g can be used, but the formulation and lactic acid will be
most effective when used fresh.
Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
5g 5. Leave this mixture in a cool, dry place for 30 minutes.
Hydrolyzed Soya Protein 6. After 30 minutes, apply the product to clean hair. Be
5g sure to spread it evenly over your hair for the best
results. Leave the mixture on your hair for 15 - 20
Hydrolyzed Silk Protein minutes.
5g
7. Rinse the the treatment off thoroughly, using warm
Fresh Lemon Juice water and make sure no product residue stays on your
A few drops strands.
Protein treatments are essential for hair health, but it can be difficult to
find vegan options on the market. This formulation is for those that are
eagerly looking for sustainably sourced vegan protein treatment options.
The recipe is wonderfully simple and very easy to make with ingredients you
may already have in your kitchen!
Avocado & castor oils are added to give your hair extra
conditioning and and slip. This ensures that you don’t struggle
to spread the mixture evenly or accidentally pull your hair during
the application process.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Avocado oil 4. Your product is ready for use! Apply the paste to
5g severely damaged strands and leave on for 20 minutes.
Rinse and follow your cleansing routine as normal.
Castor oil
5g
Castor, argan oil & shea butter are included for these emollient
properties. Castor oil in particular enhances the surface of your
strands by sealing the cuticle without preventing the protein
delivery system. Argan oil is a sealing and penetrating oil that
imparts shine and slip to the product.
RECOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
• Glass beakers
(1 liter, 500mL and 100mL)
• Scale
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
DETANGLER FORMULATIONS
NO-FUSS DETANGLER
Argan & Jojoba Oils are used to slightly penetrating and slightly
seal your hair cuticle. This will soften the hair, align the cuticles
and give it extra slip.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
MAKES 530ML 1. Pour water into a medium sized bowl and stir in argan oil,
DETANGLER jojoba oil and vegetable glycerin.
Water 2. Now add a few drops of your favourite essential oil to give
500mL your detangler a nice scent. Lavender or lemon oil work really
well with this one.
Filtered lemon juice
Max. 10mL 3. Add in lemon juice without pulp to blance the pH. Ensure the
formulation is at a pH level below 3.65. This will ensure the
Vegetable Glycerin application does not damage the structure of your strands by
10 g shifting its natural pH.
Argan Oil 4. If you’d like to store the detangler for more than a week, you
5g may add potassium sorbate.
Jojoba Oil 5. Decant the detangler into an air tight spray bottle. Shake
5g firmly before every use to cobine water and oil. Generously
spray onto your ends and detangle gently. Wash after use.
Fragrant Essential Oil
A few drops (optional)
Potassium Sorbate
(optional preservative)
1g
Slippery elm and marshmallow root are herbs with naturally and
incredibly slimy and slippery properties. Even moreso than aloe
vera! Getting the root is better but using the powdered form is
easier if you are a beginner. Once mixed with liquid, it becomes
a viscous and slippery liquid.
The lemon juice is used for its acidic pH level, helping to flatten the
hair cuticles so they do not lift up and break during the detangling
process. You must filter it and remove any pulp as it will affect the
effectiveness of the product.
Argan oil is used to slightly penetrate and slightly seal your hair
cuticle. This will protect, soften and seal the hair, giving it extra
slip.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Slipper Elm Powder 4. If you prefer a thinner consistency, simply add more water.
If you would like to add a scent, add a few drops of your
2g
favourite essential oil. If you would like to preserve the
mixture, dissolve the potassium sorbate in a few drops of
Marshmellow Root Powder
water and add it to the mixture. Stir everything well.
3.5g
5. Test the pH of the product and adjust accordingly with filtered
Argan Oil
lemon juice until the mixture is below 3.67. It’s essential that
3g
there is no pulp in the juice for this particular formulation.
Green Tea extract
6. Strain the mixture to remove any clumps and decant into a
1g
pump bottle.
Potassium Sorbate
7. Use this product to detangle your knots before washing or
1 g (optional)
after. This product also doubles up as a sealant so you may
adjust the oils/humectants based on your hair profile.
After washing and conditioning your hair, it’s important that you protect
it from sustaining new damage and dehydration. A sealant does just
that. It seals in the moisture you’ve just added through the conditioning
step of your haircare routine and protects your strands against
cuticle abrasion caused by external forces such as wind and rubbing.
Most commercial sealants are used as leave-in conditioners and are made
up of plenty of synthetic and harmful materials. This sealant is formulated
without any harmful additives to protect your hair and provide you with the
moisture retention you need. This sealant is best used in summer as the
ingredients can solidify in cold weather, making it less effective.
Shea Butter, macadamia nut oil, argan oil & almond oil also have
fatty acid compositions that impact an excellent amount of shine
to the hair shaft and will seal the hair shaft, prevent moisture
from escaping.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Ready for some hair oils? Oils seem to be everyone’s darling when it comes
to hair care products. Unfortunately, they are often way too overpriced for
what they are. This mixture of 10 oils costs a fraction of what a similar oil on
the market would cost. It has all the properties to seal in moisture, eliminate
frizz and protect your strands against thermal & UV induced damage.
Natural oils and butters like the ones in this formulation are
excellent sources of natural emollients. Castor oil is rich in medium
to long range fatty acids which enhances your hair’s sheen.
Almond Oil, Jojoba, Meadowfoam seed oil and Argan Oil are
added to give your hair bounce and softness. They also deliver
nourishment to our scalp, two birds with one stone!
Amaranth Seed Oil is a natural blend of linoleic acid and oleic acid
which are unsaturated fats in nature. They provide a very thin
hydrophobic coating to your hairs surface which gives it shine
without making it greasy.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Castor Oil
2.5 g
Jojoba Oil
5g
Almond Oil
10 g
Moringa Oil
2.5 g
Argan Oil
2.5 g
UV radiation is something we protect our skin from all the time, but our
hair gets damaged by it too! It can cause quite significant hair damage
as it causes free radicals inside the hair fiber. Studies have revealed
that repeated exposure to UV radiation makes hair brittle and fragile.
Additionally, exposure to radiation can cause a significant loss in hair
color intensity. Various plant oils are known for their special UV protectant
features, so we created this DIY easy-to-make spray to keep your hair and
color proctected in the sun! You may also omit the water and use this as an
oil sealant with UV protectant properties.
Moringa oil is rich in oleic acid, which means that it’s nourishing
and moisturizing, while also giving your hair a smooth and silky
shine. It is highly resistant to oxidative degradation, which means
that it protects the hair against environmental pollutants and UV
radiation. Moreover, it offers conditioning to the hair and scalp, so
it doesn’t just help your hair fight off damage caused by UV rays,
it is also a great moisturizer, which your hair will need if you’re in
the sun a lot.
Argan oil and wheat germ oil is are source of unsaturated fatty
acids, such as linoleic, oleic, and linolenic acids. More importantly,
wheat germ is particularly rich in tocopherols, mainly γ- and
δ-tocopherol. All of the above-mentioned acids are known to have
significant UV-protectant properties.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Dead skin, sweat and pollution that stays on your scalp can easily
clog your pores which leads to hair loss and other inflamed scalp
conditions. If you get rid of residue like that, your scalp will immediately
become healthier and grow better hair. Alpha-hydroxy acids (e.g.
lactic acid or glycolic acid) are known for their exfoliation properties.
So, here is a recipe that is rich in alpha-hydroxy acids, moisturizing
agents and emollients fully sourced from natural ingredients.
This recipe uses organic acids from natural resources (yogurt & fruits) for
skin exfoliation. This is a common way of exfoliating your skin and making it
look nice and refreshed without requiring any mechanical force.
Fresh Apple juice also contains alpha hydroxy acids which help to
gently dissolve dead skin off the scalp.
Yogurt with it’s rich in lactic acid and minerals while apple juice
contains tartaric and malic acids. Mixing these acids with honey
creates a superb moisturizing paste full of highly nourishing
ingredients. If your scalp is dry, itchy and flaky, this paste will
target any irritation, dry skin, and bacteria growth which will
reduce your symptoms.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
An unhealthy scalp may result in dryness, dandruff and, eventually, hair loss.
That’s why the scalp needs to be cleaned and conditioned properly! Things
like excessive use of shampoo, too hot water in the shower, environmental
conditions, stress and many other factors may cause quite severe dryness!
In order to prevent this, or fight back, we need to tackle the root cause while
also nourishing our scalp with this powerful scalp treatment.
Indian gooseberry oil (or Indian Amla Oil) and African baobab tree
oil are unique essential oils with unique properties that assist in
retaining hydration and firmness of the epidermis layer of the
skin. Additionally, they contribute anti-inflammatory effects which
are highly beneficial to your roots and may help reduce hair fall.
Together, they are an incredible hair health resource that can
soothe and treat your scalp gently!
Sweet almond, avocado & jojoba oils are used together in this
formulation for their lubricity, conditioning, skin regeneration,
healing and moisturizing properties.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
1. Weigh all the oils in a mixing cup and mix them gently.
MAKES 36 OIL
2. Your product is ready to use immediately or can be stored in
Indian Amla Oil
a cool, dark and dry place for later use.
(Indian Gooseberry Oil)
10 g
Avocado Oil
5g
Rosemary Oil
1g
This luxurious blend of oils makes for a perfect scalp treatment after a long
and stressful day. It’s aromatic and helps you destress, while also stimulating
blood flow to the scalp. It’s perfect for chilling and growing your hair at the
same time! The natural plant derived oils in this formulation contain special
medicinal properties from cleaning to moisturizing and even calming.
Macadamia nut oil is one of the few plant oils that contain a high
content of palmitoleic acid. It’s extremely nourishing and helps
strengthen your hair follicles which inturn reduces hair loss. It’s a
bit of a pricey oil, but it’s worth it if you’re experiencing hair loss.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Rosemary Oil
5g
“The same way a plant can’t grow in bad soil, you can’t grow healthy
hair on an unhealthy scalp”. If you’ve been part of the Hair Growth Lab
Program, you’ll know just how important is it to have a healthy scalp.
Leaving a dry and itchy scalp untreated eventually leads to an extreme
case of hair loss that can take many months to heal and recover from.
Yogurt is rich in lactic acid which is known for its exfoliation and
moisturising properties. It also contains protein which helps align
the cuticles of the hair shaft. Additionally, the lactic acid content
will help minimise scalp flaking. If you have low porosity, it is
recommended to keep this treatment away from your strands to
avoid protein build-up.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
1. Peel onion and garlic and place in a water bath for 2 hours.
MAKES 130G OF
TREATMENT
2. After 2 hours move both ingredients into a blender and
blend until smooth. Take a cheesecloth or fine strainer to
Greek Yoghurt
extract the liquid into a clean, medium sized bowl or glass
50 g
beaker. Dispose the leftover matter.
Onion Extract
3. In a separate bowl weigh out the yoghurt and add garlic,
20 g
onion extract and tea tree oil. Stir gently until combined.
Garlic Extract
4. If you can’t handle the garlic or onion smell, you may use
10 g
an essential oil to help make the treatment more pleasant
to use. If you are sensitive to oils or essential oils, it’s
Water
recommended to skip this step.
50mL
5. Test the pH of the mixture. Adjust with lemon juice until the
Tea Tree Oil
mixture is in a range of 4.5-5.5.
2g
6. Use immediately or store the mixture in an airtight container
Fragrant Essential Oil
in the fridge for up to a week.
A few drops (optional)
7. Apply the mixture generously to the scalp. Leave on for at
Lemon Juice
least 30 minutes to allow the formulation to dissolve any dry
A few drops
flakes and fight bacterial growth on your scalp.
Avocado Oil is known for its skin and scalp healing properties.
The acid composition inside avocado oil has shown to promote
collagen production which is essential to firmly anchor our hairs
follicles.
Olive oil contains 60-70% oleic acid and Avocado oil also has
around 70% unsaturated content. This makes them a good
choice to block DHT. DHT is an androgen (male sex hormone)
which is made from testosterone. DHT binds to receptors in your
hair follicles, causing the follicle to shrink. By blocking DHT, it’s
therefore possible to prevent hair loss. However, these results
are highly personal.
IMPORTANT NOTES
PREPARATION
Ginger Oil
12 g
Avocado Oil
5g