Oblina

Crochet pattern by
 About this toy

Size
40 cm (15,7")

Yarn and crochet hook

DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) yarn (black, white and red colours) and a 2,50 crochet HOOK (US
size 1/B or 2/C) or according to the yarn.

Skills required
Crocheting in spiral, crocheting in rounds, chain, slip, single, half double crochet and double
crochet stitch, increasing and decreasing of stitches.

How difficult
3. Intermediate

Contact me
If you have any qestions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me via the email
([email protected]) or Facebook (@monoxatoys).

One serious rule

Contents of this tutorial MAY NOT be copied, reproduced, altered, published or distributed
in any way.
You MAY sell finished products, if you credit me as the designer
(@monoxatoys at Facebook and Instargam).

1
 Hi there
J I am so-o-o GLAD that you have chosen me
to be your amigurumi crochet guide and decided
to create OBLINA with my help!

THANK YOU.

It will be fun, I promise.

My OBLINA is not an easy toy, so I believe, that

you already have some experience in crocheting
amigurumi, because in this tutorial I will focus
more on tricky moments (such as bending the
tail)
Let’s begin! J

The plan
1) First, I will give you the list of ABBREVIATIONS, that I going to use in this tutorial and
remind you of the most common TECHNIQUES.

2) After that, I will show you an INVISIBLE single crochet decrease method.

3) Then I will explain to you HOW TO READ my patterns.

4) In the next block, I will provide you with the list of MATERIALS AND TOOLS needed
for the OBLINA creation process.

5) Then, I will share with you the long-waited crochet PATTERN.

6) After that, I will explain to you how to SHAPE the FACE of a toy.

7) Finally, I will teach you how to ASSEMBLE all the details together and share with you
some of My TIPS.

2
 Abbreviations and Technology
ch =
chain stitch

sc =
single crochet

sl st = slip stitch

dc =
double crochet

hdc = half double crochet

inc = increase
Increases look like a
“slingshots” on a crocheted fabric, so it is easy to spot them. You going to need increases to
WIDEN your crochet detail. To increase one stitch, you have to simply work TWO stitches IN
ONE stitch.

dec = decrease = sc2tog

Decrease – is really just
subtracting of a stitch in a
single crochet row. You
going to need decreases to NARROW your crochet detail.

3
 How to make invisible decrease
The standard method of decreasing is to SC2TOG, which leaves a bit of a bump and a small
gap. On the one hand, it makes it easier to find a decrease if you have lost the count, but on
the other hand, stuffing going to show through this gaps and bumps will give uneven
surface… and all the work will look untidy. However, if you promise to be a good girl and
count carefully your stitches, and use stitch marker, I will show you my secret DECREASE
METHOD, that makes decreases INVISIBLE!

1) Insert the hook under the front loop of the first single crochet stitch. Do not yarn
over.

2) Insert the hook under the front loop of the second stitch and pick it up onto the hook
(it won’t be easy at first and it will take some time to get to use to this move, but the
result is absolutely worth it!). Yarn over.

3) Draw through the first two loops. Yarn over and draw through all loops.

J Now let’s play a game: spot the decrease! J

4
 How to read my pattern

sc n = make n single crochet stitches, one in each stitch.

Number of the row

Pattern, you have to repeat
“So“much times
number of stitches in a row after finishing a row………

4) {sc 2, inc} * 6 (24)

That means, that in the fourth row you going to repeat fragment “two single crochet
stitches, increase” six times and at the end of the row you will get 24 stitches.

5
 Materials & Tools
1) YARN. I used DK weight (8 ply / 11 wpi) polyester yarn (100g – 240mt (3,5 Oz – 262
yards)) and a 2,50 mm crochet hook (US size 1/B). Colors: white, black – about 70 g
(2,5 Oz) each, red yarn – about 25 g (0,9 Oz).

For eyelashes and hair (on the tail and head) I used thinner black cotton yarn (100g –
210 mt (3,5 Oz - 230 yards)) – about 10 g (0,26 Oz) and a 1,25 mm crochet hook (US
size 10).

2) 2,50 mm crochet HOOK (US size 1/B – 2/C) or according to the yarn.
3) Polyester fiberfill, wool, wadding etc. for STUFFING (about 80g (2,8 Oz))
4) Plastic dragon EYES (diameter 40 mm (1.6“))
5) White nylon THREAD
6) Wire 45cm (18“). Thickness of the wire: 1,2mm (0,47“)
7) Black insulating fabric tape
8) Hot glue gun, hot glue
9) White felt
10) White polymer clay for teeth (if you are going to make them by yourself) or you can
use bigger white beads

11) YARN NEEDLE, sewing PINS, SCISSORS, stitch MARKER.

J That’s it with the boring staff! Yeho-o-o! Now I invite you to the world of magic stitches!
Our jorney begins!

6
 Patterns
Let’s start with smaller details, because when you start to crochet the body, you will need
readymade legs/ arms/ antennae of the eyes to crochet them into the body.

Legs (2 details – one black, one white)

0) Chain 5
1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 2, make 5 sc into the 5th stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 2 (12 )
2) inc 3, sc 2, inc 5, sc 2 (20)
3) sc 2, inc 2, sc 4, {sc 1, inc} *5, sc 2 (27)
4) sc 2, hdc, {2 dc in one stitch}*2, hdc, sc 8, inc, sc 1, {2 dc in one stitch, dc}*2, {inc, sc
1} *2, sc 3 (34)

It is not absolutely necessary, but if you want Oblina’s foot to hold its shape, you can cut
two soles out of felt or cardboard, using the shape you got after row 4) as a stencil.
Soles should be a little bit smaller, tha the actual shapes.
7
5) sc 34
Back loops only!
6) sc 2, dec 3, sc 26 (31)

Insert the sole.

My TIP: For the black leg you can put a little bit of black yarn on the bottom of the detail (so
the stuffing could not be seen throw the holes).

7) sc 14, dec, sc 8, dec, sc 5 (29)

8) sc 2, dec 2, sc 23 (27)
9) sc 2, dec 2, sc 21 (25)
10) {sc 1, dec}*5, inc, {sc 1, dec}*3 (18)
11) dec 5, sc 6, dec (12)

Firmly stuff the leg.

12) dec 3, sc 4, dec (8)

13) dec, sc 2, inc, sc 3 (8)

8
14) - 27) sc 8 – 12 rows

For the white (right) leg:

28) Sc 1, hdc, dc, hdc, sc 1, sl st 3 (8)

For the black (left) leg:

28) Sl st 3, sc 1, hdc, dc, hdc, sc 1 (8), finish as an open piece (see description below)
9
 How to finish an open piece
1) Make a slip stitch to the next stitch. Cut the yarn, leaving about 40 cm (16“) long tail
(you will use it later to sew detail together). Draw the yarn tail through the loop.

2) Insert the hook through the next stitch from FRONT to BACKfront to back and draw
the yarn tail throught.

3) Insert the hook through the next stitch from BACK to FRONT and draw the yarn tail
throught.

Thumbs (2 details – one black, one white)

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) sc 6
3) sc 6
4) sc 6, sl st, finish as an open piece.

Arms (2 details – one black, one white)

0) Chain 5

1) Make 3 sc to the 2nd stitch from the hook, sc 2, make 5 sc into the 5th stitch, turn over and start
crocheting from another side of the chain: sc 2 (12 )

2) inc 3, sc 2, inc 5, sc 2 (20)

3) sc 2, inc 2, sc 4, {sc 1, inc} *5, sc 2 (27)

4) sc 2, hdc, {2 dc in one stitch}*2, hdc, sc 8, inc, sc 1, {2 dc in one stitch, dc}*2, {inc, sc

1} *2, sc 3 (34)

NB! The following two rows have different patterns for right and left hand, so pay attention:

5) White (right) hand: sc 19, sl st 5, sc 2, sc 3 together with the white thumb, sc 5 (34)
10
 Black (left) hand: sc 19, sl st 5, sc 10 (34)

6) White (right) hand: sc 3, dec 3, sc 11, sl st 5, sc 9 (31)

Black (left) hand: sc 3, dec 3, sc 7, sc 3 together with the white thumb (see the picture below),
sc 1, sl st 5, sc 9 (31)

7) sc 14, dec, sc 2, sl st 5, sc 2, dec, sc 4 (29)

8) sc 2, dec 2, sc 11, sl st 5, sc 7 (27)
9) dec 6, sc 3, sl st 5, sc 3, dec 2 (19)
10) dec 4, sc 9, dec (14)

Firmly stuff the hand.

11) dec 3, sc 2, inc, sc 1, dec 2 (10)

12) dec, sc 8 (9)
13) dec, sc 7 (8)
14) sc 8
15) sc 8
16) - 34) sc 8 – 19 rows, finish as an open piece

11
It is not necessary, but if you don’t want the thumb to stick out, you can sew it to the hand
with one-two stitches:

Make two long stitches with thread of yarn of contrast color to separate the fingers:

Antennae (2 details)
Use black yarn.

0) Chain 15
1) sc 1 in 2nd stitch, sc 13 (14), turn
2) ch 1, sc 14 (14), turn
3) repeat row 2
12
4) Fold the detail together and join the edges with slim stitches

13
Eyes (4 details)
Use black yarn.

5) Chain 2
6) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
7) Inc 6 (12 )
8) {sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
9) {sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
10) {sc 3, inc} *6 (30)

Finish TWO details as open pieces (see the

picture below), other two – leave with a long tail
(about 150 cm). You will need the tail to join two
parts of the eye.

Eyelashes (on two finished details)

Use thin black yarn and smaller 1,25 mm (10) hook

14
1) Join thinner cotton yarn to the eye detail, that is finished as open piece.
2) ch 11
3) sl st 1 into the 2 stitch, sl st 5, sc 4 + additional sc stitch into the joining place (11)
nd

4) front loops only: sc 3 into the last row of the eye detail
5) ch 13
6) sl st 1 into the 2 stitch, sl st 6, sc 5 + additional sc stitch into the joining place (13)
nd

7) front loops only: sc 3 into the last row of the eye detail
8) ch 11
9) sl st 1 into the 2 stitch, sl st 5, sc 4 + additional sc stitch into the joining place (11)
nd

10) front loops only: sc 3 into the last row of the eye detail, finish as an open piece.

My TIP:

If you want eyelashes to hold the shape, you can strengthen them with sugar syrup (3 ts of
sugar to 1/4 glass of hot water).

Fix eyelashes the way you like it on some rubber surface (yoga block, yoga mat) with sewing
pins and apply some sugar syrup on them. Leave to dry overnight.

15
Lips

Upper lip:
Use red yarn.

0) Chain 2
1) sc 4 in 2nd stitch
2) {sc 1, inc} *2 (6)
3) sc 1, dec, sc 1, inc, sc 1 (6)
4) inc 2, sc 4 (8)
5) {sc 1, inc} *4 (12)
6) {sc 2, inc} *2, sc 6 (14)
7) sc 5, inc, sc 8 (15)
8) {sc 4, inc} *3 (18)
9) sc 7, inc, sc 10 (19)
10) sc 8, inc, sc 10 (20)
11) sc 8, inc, sc 11 (21)
12) sc 9, inc, sc 11 (22)
13) sc 10, inc, sc 11 (23)
14) sc 23
15) sc 11, inc, sc 11 (24)
16) sc 24
17) dec, sc 9, dec, sc 11 (22)
18) dec, {sc 3, dec} *4 (18)
19) inc, {sc 3, inc} *4 (22)
20) sc 2, inc, sc 9, inc, sc 9 (24)
21) sc 24
22) sc 14, dec, sc 8 (23)
23) sc 23

24) sc 14, dec, sc 7 (22)

25) sc 13, dec, sc 7 (21)
26) sc 13, dec, sc 6 (20)

Now you can firmly stuff the lip.

16
27) sc 13, dec, sc 5 (19)
28) sc 12, dec, sc 5 (18)
29) {sc 4, dec} *3 (15)
30) sc 11, dec, sc 2 (14)
31) sc 8, dec, sc 2, dec (12)

Now you have the last chance to stuff the upper lip

32) {sc 1, dec} *4 (8)

33) dec, sc 4, dec (6)
34) sc 2, dec, sc 1, inc (6)
35) {sc 1, dec} *2 (4)

Do not cut the yarn, you are going to crochet lower lip right away.

Lower lip:

36) sc 4 - this row will be a folding point.

37) {sc 1, inc} *2 (6)

38) {sc 2, inc} *2 (8)
39) {sc 3, inc} *2 (10)
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40) {sc 4, inc} *2 (12)
41) sc 1, inc 2, sc 9 (14)
42) sc 1, inc, sc 2, inc, sc 9 (16)
43) sc 2, inc, sc 3, inc, 9 (18)
44) sc 18
45) sc 6, inc, sc 11 (19)
46) sc 5, inc, sc 3, inc, sc 9 (21)
47) {sc 6, inc} *3 (24)
48) sc 24
49) sc 7, hdc 3, dc 3, hdc 3, sc 8 (24)
50) sc 8, hdc 3, dc 3, hdc 3, sc 7 (24)

Now work even (continue crocheting the same number of stitches) for 5 rows:
51) sc 24
52) sc 24
53) sc 24
54) sc 24
55) sc 24

56) sc 10, hdc 3, dc 3, hdc 3, sc 5 (24)

57) repeat row 56
58) sc 24
59) {sc 6, dec} *3 (21)
18
60) sc 9, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 5 (19)
61) sc 12, dec, sc 5 (18)
62) sc 18

Now you can firmly stuff the lip.

63) sc 9, dec, sc 3, dec, sc 2 (16)

64) sc 9, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 1 (14)
65) sc 9, dec 2, sc 1 (12)

Now you have the last chance to stuff the lower lip.

66) {sc 4, dec} *2 (10)

67) {sc 3, dec} *2 (8)
68) {sc 2, dec} *2 (6)
69) {sc 1, dec} *2 (4)
70) Sc 4

Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle. Put
upper and lower lip together and sew stitches of last row of the lower lip to the beginning
of upper lip.
Make a double knot.
Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against the
body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

You can also sew the other corner of the lips together:

19
Body
Use black yarn.

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12 )
3) {sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) {sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) {sc 14, inc} *2 (32)

Now work even (continue crocheting the same number of stitches) for 5 rows

7) sc 32
8) sc 32
9) sc 32
10) sc 32
11) sc 32

How to “bend” the tail

Now we have to make a stop. I am going to share with you my unique technique of
“bending” crochet details.
20
If you want to “bend” crochet detail really drastically (the case we have with Oblina’s tail),
usual decreases and increases do not work.
You need somehow to enlarge outer surface and narrow inner surface if the detail.
I name this technique “pits” and “hills”.
“Pits” – help to narrow the inner surface (using slim stitches instead of single crochet
stitches).
“Hills” – help to enlarge the outer surface (using 2 half-rows, one of them goes on the wrong
side (reverse half-row), another – on the right side).

I am will show you how “pits” and “hills” work using blue and red colors.
You keep crocheting in black. Change the color when it is said so in the instruction.

“Pit”
12) sc 1, sl sl 14, sc 17 (32)

NB! Please, please, please! Try to make slim stitches really loose, otherwise it will be
difficult for you to squeeze the hook into them during the next row. And you are going to
hate me after the very first “pit” J.

13) repeat row 12

14) sc 2, sl sl 14, sc 16 (32)
15) repeat row 14

21
As you can see, the section, where you have done slim stitches (left side of the detail), goes down,
so the inner surface narrows.

Now let’s make a “Hill”.

“Hill”
16) sl st 1 (this stitch does not count: you need it just to move the row a little bit forward),

ch 1 (counts as first stitch of the row), turn to the wrong side,

22
sl st 1 into the 2-nd stitch (as it is shown on the picture), sc 3, hdc 6, sc 3, sl st 2 (16)

17) ch 1 (counts as first stitch),

turn, sl st 2, sc 3, hdc 4, sc 3, sl st 3 (16)

As you can see, the section, where you have done half-rows (right side on the detail), goes up, so
the outer surface widens.

23
You are going to repeat that thick with “pits” and “hills” 5 times, until you get the perfect
Oblina’s tail. Technique itself is simple, but once again, please, try to make loose slim
stitches, otherwise this part of the pattern will become a living hell for you.

18) sc 16,

Now you have to be careful, while “climbing up” the “hill”, try not to lose one stitch: make
the next sc into the place shown on the picture:

Finish row 18) with sc 16 (32!)

Make sure you really have 32 stitches in this row!

19) sc 32 (32)

Change the colour! Proceed with the white yarn

24
 How to change the colour
My TIP is that you change colour in the end of previous stitch. That means, that you start
the last stitch as usual, but for the final loop, which you pull through, you are already using
a new colour.

“Pit”
Now work even for 4 rows:
20) -23) sc 3, sl st 14, sc 15 (32) – 4 rows

“Hill”
24) sc 1, sl st 1 (those two stitches do not count: you need them just to move the row a little bit forward) ch 1,
turn, sl st 1, sc 3, hdc 6, sc 3, sl sl 2 (16)
25) ch 1, turn, sl st 2, sc 3, hdc 4, sc 3, sl st 3 (16)

26) sc 17, sc 4 together with the folded white leg,

My TIP: Fold white leg this way, that the double crochet stitch, that you have in the last row
is exactly on the right, and the first joining stitch will be made in it. This way joining will look
more natural and legs will not stick up.

25
sc 6, sc 4 together with the folded black leg,

My TIP: Fold black leg this way, that the second slim stitch, that you have in the last row is
exactly on the right, and the first joining stitch will be made in it. This way joining will look
more natural and legs will not stick up.

Finish row 26) with sc 1 (32)

Later, the joining of the legs will look this way:

27) sc 32

“Pit”
Now work even for 4 rows:
28) -31) sc 2, sl st 14, sc 16 (32) – 4 rows

“Hill”
32) sl st 1 (this stitch does not count: you need it just to move the row a little bit forward) ch 1, turn, sl st 1, sc
3, hdc 6, sc 3, sl sl 2 (16)
33) ch 1, turn, sl st 2, sc 3, hdc 4, sc 3, sl st 3 (16)

26
34) sc 32
35) sc 32, finish last stitch with black color (32)

Change the colour! Proceed with the black yarn

“Pit”
Now work even for 4 rows:
36) -39) sc 3, sl st 14, sc 15 (32) – 4 rows

“Hill”
40) sc 1, sl st 1 (this stitch does not count: you need it just to move the row a little bit forward) ch 1, turn, sl st
1, sc 3, hdc 6, sc 3, sl sl 2 (16)
41) ch 1, turn, sl st 2, sc 3, hdc 4, sc 3, sl st 3 (16)

42) sc 32
43) sc 32

“Pit”
Now work even for 4 rows:
44) -47) sc 3, sl st 14, sc 15 (32) – 4 rows

“Hill”
48) sc 1, sl st 1 (this stitch does not count: you need it just to move the row a little bit forward) ch 1, turn, sl st
1, sc 3, hdc 6, sc 3, sl sl 2 (16)
49) ch 1, turn, sl st 2, sc 3, hdc 4, sc 3, sl st 3 (16)

50) sc 32
51) sc 32

NB! Bended part of the body is over, no more “pits” and “hills”!
Congratulations! Now pattern gets much easier.

Now work even for 6 rows:

52) -57) sc 32 – 6 rows

Now you can firmly stuff the tail.

27
Change the colour! Proceed with the white yarn.

Work even for 17 rows:

58) – 74) sc 32 – 17 rows

In the next row you are going to crochet arms into the body. So make sure that arm are
folded this way:

75) sc 5, change the color – proceed with black yarn, sc 23,

sc 4 together with the folded white arm (32)

28
76) Sc 14, sc 4 together with the folded black arm, sc 14 (32)

Now work even for 16 rows:

77) -92) sc 32 – 16 rows

93) sc 1, sc 2 together with the folded right antenna, sc 17, sc 2 together with the
folded left antenna, sc 10 (32)

29
30
 How to make a carcass for antennae
Now you have to make a carcass for antennae, so they could hold the weight of the glass
dragon eyes and won’t fall down.

1) Cut about 45 cm (17,7”) of wire. Draw the circle on the paper (the same diameter, as
the opening of Oblina’s body has).
Make the circle out of wire, so there will be two 15 cm (5,9”) ends (“hands”) left.

2) Wrap the black fabric tape tightly around the wire.

31
3) Insert the “hands” of the carcass into antennae.

4) Crochet the next row over the carcass.

32
94) sc 1 over the carcass, sc 2 into the free stitches of antennae, sc 17 over the carcass, sc 2 into the free stitches
of antennae, sc 10 over the carcass (32)

Make loops out of “hands” of the carcass (those loops will go into crocheted parts of the
eyes, when you start to assemble the toy):

33
So far you should have this beauty:

34
Now work even for 3 rows:
95) -97) sc 32 – 3 rows

98) sc 10, change the color, proceed with white yarn

With antennae pointing out in different directions, it is not very handy to crochet the last
(white) part of Oblina’s body.

So, I offer you two options:

1. If you do not like sewing, you just continue to crochet rows 98)-124) (Option 1).
2. If it is handier for you (like it was for me) to crochet separately white part and then
sew it to the rest of the body, then start a follow Option 2 instructions below.

Another advantage that Option 2 gives is that is easier to crochet hairspring on the
head, when it is crocheted separately. So, if you are choosing Option 2, make sure,
you have crocheted all three hairsprings on the top of head, before you join it to the
rest of the body.

Option 1:

Proceed with row 98, after color changing crochet sc 22 (32)

Now work even for 21 row:

99) -119) sc 32 – 21 row

120) {sc 14, dec} *2 (30)

121) {sc 3, dec} *6 (24)
122) {sc 2, dec} *6 (18)
123) {sc 1, dec} *6 (12)
124) dec 6 (6), close the opening (see description below)

35
 How to close the opening
1) Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn
needle.

2) Insert the needle from the centre and under the front loop only. Draw the yarn
through. Pick up all the remaining stitches the same way.

3) Grab the yarn and pull until the hole is tightly closed.

4) Make a double knot.

5) Exit the needle elsewhere on the work, pull the yarn tail taut, and snip it right against
the body (the tail should disappear inside the body).

Option 2:

Crochet separately the last white part of Oblina’s body:

0) Chain 2
1) Sc 6 in 2nd stitch
2) Inc 6 (12 )
3) {sc 1, inc} *6 (18)
4) {sc 2, inc} *6 (24)
5) {sc 3, inc} *6 (30)
6) {sc 14, inc} *2 (32)

Now work even for 21 row:

7) -27) sc 32 – 21 row

Crochet hairsprings on the top of the head:

How to crochet hairsprings on the head

1) First hairspring: join thin black yarn to the 3rd row (counting from the top of the head)
ch 19, sl st 1 into the 2nd stitsh, sl st 17 + additional sc stitch into the joining place

36
 Cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle. Exit the needle elsewhere on the
work, hiding the tail.

2) Second hairspring: join thin black yarn to the 1rd row, 1 cm from the 1st hairspring
ch 20, sl st 1 into the 2nd stitsh sl st 18 + additional sc stitch into the joining place

Finish as a first hairspring.

3) Third hairspring: join thin black yarn to the 1rd row, 1 cm from the 2st hairspring
ch 19, sl st 1 into the 2nd stitsh, sl st 17 + additional sc stitch into the joining place

Finish as a first hairspring.

Sew white part to the rest of the body.

37
 Assembling
How to join 2 pieces of the eye
Using the long tail of yarn, that you have left before (150 cm = 59”), start to join 2 pieces of
the eye together (one is with eyelashes, another – without).

For the right eye (there should be 8 stitches between joining point and the first eyelash):

sc 1, hdc 7,
hdc 1 only into the front detail (because there is an eyelash crocheted to the back part and there is no free stitch left),
hdc 2 (front detail + free loops of the back detail),
hdc 1 only into the front detail,
hdc 2 (front detail + free loops of the back detail),
hdc 1 only into the front detail,
hdc 7, sc 3,

38
Insert the carcass into the “pocket” you got after joining to details of the eye together:

And finish the row: sl st 3 (28)

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle. Sew the
last stitches of the crochet detail of the eye to antenna. Make a double knot. Exit the
needle elsewhere on the work, hiding the tail.

39
For the left eye (there should be 10 stitches between joining point and the first eyelash):

Sc 3, hdc 7,
hdc 1 only into the front detail,
hdc 2 (front detail + free loops of the back detail),
hdc 1 only into the front detail,
hdc 2 (front detail + free loops of the back detail),
hdc 1 only into the front detail,
hdc 7,

Insert the carcass:

40
And finish the row: sc 1, sl st 3 (28)

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle. Sew the
last stitches of the crochet detail of the eyes to antenna. Make a double knot. Exit the
needle elsewhere on the work, hiding the tail.

How to crochet hairsprings on the tail

1) First hairspring: join thin black yarn to the 2 rd

row (counting from the beginning of the tail)
ch 30, sl st 1 into the 2nd stitsh, sl st 28, 3 sl st into the tail (among the 2nd row)

2) Second hairspring: ch 26, sl st 1 into the 2 stitsh sl st 24, 3 sl st into the tail (among the 2 row)
nd nd

3) Third hairspring: ch 28, sl st 1 into the 2 stitsh sl st 28, 3 sl st into the tail (among the 2 row)
nd nd

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail, and fasten off. Thread the yarn tail into a yarn needle. Exit the
needle elsewhere on the work, hiding the tail.

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 How to make teeth
You can use bigger white beads for teeth. Or you can make Oblina without them. Or you can
sculpture them out of polymer clay.

1) Sculpture two tooth-like pieces (1,5*1,5*1,0 cm)

2) Insert needles into them (so there would be a hole for sewing)

3) Boil them for 5-7 minutes in water to harden the clay

4) Let the clay to cool down

5) Cover teeth with white nail polish, if additional gloss is needed

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6) Sew teeth to the lips, entering the needle from the back side of the lips.

How to make dragon eyes

There three options available for you:

1) You can simply purchase those dragon eyes. Here are some links from etsy:
https://etsy.me/2WTEeTD

https://etsy.me/3avogD3

2) Or you can paint back sides of cabochons with nail polish (some creative girls are
doing that):

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3) Or you can use my tutorial and use printable file to create beautiful dragon eyes:

My video tutorial “How to make doll’s eyes” is here: https://youtu.be/BtkuVY_6MNI

Downloadable file with pictures of the eyes I bought here:

https://etsy.me/2wOtZFF

Cabochons I bought here:

https://s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_dUdSvPG

When dragon eyes are ready/ bought, just attach them with hot glue to the crochet parts of
the eyes.

Using the hot glue attach the lips too (or you can fix them with hot glue and then sew them
to the body, so it would be more secure).

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 How to make “scratches” on the white parts of the
body
Just follow my pictures:

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 I know, that you cannot believe it, but that is IT!
You made it!
Your OBLINA is alive and it’s the most amazing toy in the world!

If you have any questions, rely on my unlimited support and contact me on Facebook –
@monoxatoys or via email [email protected]
I hope I will see you again soon!

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