Margot the Cat

Crochet and
Knit Pattern

By: Melan
Crochet
TikTok: Mellyg.p
Materials Notes:
This pattern is made to be adjustable. I will give general stitch
skeleton: counts and measurements that I used, but feel free to adjust to
*jewelry/craft wire the sizing you prefer! The pattern encourages more intuitive
*wire cutters/round nose pliers free-hand shaping than stitch and row counting.
body:
*1 skein sugar and cream Skeleton:
cotton weight 4 yarn Legs and Hips:
*size 4mm crochet hook 1. Begin by cutting two equal lengths of wire for the legs and hips.
*stuffing Cut the wire about 4 inches longer than you want the legs and
*12 mm cat safety eyes hips to end up.
*yarn needle 2. Tightly twist the two lengths of wire together with round nose
*embroidery thread or thin pliers or your hands. Cut off any extra unwanted length. Curl
the ends to form feet. Bend the piece to form two legs and a
yarn (nose color)
hip section (see fig. 1). My finished leg piece was about 15
*stitch marker
inches long.
sweater: Arms:
*any 3-weight yarn 1. Cut two equal lengths of wire for the arms. Cut the wire about
*4mm double pointed knitting 4 inches longer than you want the arms to end up.
needles 2. Twist the two lengths of wire together and cut off any extra
*yarn needle unwanted length. Curl the ends to form hands. My finished arm
piece was about 8.5 inches long. (See fig. 2).

Abbreviations
St(s) – stitches
Ch(s) – chains
Sc – single crochet
Inc – increase (sc 2 in one st)
sc2tog – sc two together
dc- double crochet Figure 1
tr – treble crochet
hdc – half double crochet
Slst – slip stitch
k- knit
p- purl

Figure 2
Head and Spine:
1. Cut two equal lengths of wire for the head and spine. Cut the wire 6-7 inches longer than you want the
head and spine to end up.
2. Twist the two lengths of wire together, leaving long tails at the end for wrapping. My tails were 3-4
inches long. Curl the top of the twisted wires to create a head. The length from the top of my head to
the end of the spine was about 4 inches long. (see fig. 3).
3. Using round nose pliers, twist the remaining tails of the head and body piece around the hips of the
legs. (see fig. 4).

Figure 3 Figure 4

Attaching the Arms:

1. Cut a length of wire about 10 inches long. Place your arm piece where you would like it to connect to
the spine.
2. Wrap the 10-inch wire around the arm piece tightly to secure it to the spine. It should form a small
shoulder. (see fig. 5).

Figure 5
Crochet Time
Legs:
Leg One:
With body color yarn and crochet hook, make a magic circle with six single crochets worked into the center. Slst
to join.
Row 1: work six sc in the round. (6 sts).
Repeat row 1 until the leg is just under the hips of your skeleton (see fig. 6). Fasten off leg one.
***Do not worry about slip stitch to join or chaining throughout the leg. I found it easier to just keep
going in the round.***
***Note: My example photos used 8 stitches in the round. Feel free to add one or 2 extra stitches to
your magic circle!
Leg Two:
Repeat process of leg one. Do not fasten off leg two.

Figure 6

Connecting the Legs:

Continuing on leg two, ch 1. Slst to join to any stitch at the top of leg one. (see fig. 7).
Row 1: work sc in the round of leg one. Work 1 sc into the joining chain. Continue working sc in the round of leg
two until you get back to the joining section. (see fig. 8 for top of connected legs). Place a stitch marker to mark
where your round ends as a guide.
***connect legs off of the skeleton, then slip them back on.
***there is a very helpful video by The Friendly Red Fox on YouTube called “How to Attach Crocheted
Doll’s Legs.”

Figure 7 Figure 8
Body:
Continue working sts in the round of your connected legs. I wanted this doll to be more round, so I added some
optional increases. See figure 9 for increase placement. Work rows until the body is just under the shoulders of
the skeleton. (see fig. 10).

Figure 10
Figure 9

Decrease row:
Starting a new row, [sc, sc2tog]. Repeat around the row. (See fig 11). Pack in stuffing tightly, adding more in
places to shape parts like the stomach and butt. Make sure to stuff around all sides of the wire. (See fig 12).

Figure 11 Figure 12
Finishing the Body:
1. Work sc until you are lined up with the wire arm. Chain 3. See fig 13. Maneuver your pieces so that the
chain goes over the wire arm. Skip one stitch from where you chained, and slst into the next stitch. The
wire arm should go through the chain space. Figure 14 shows how the top of the body looks. The
chains should look like tank top straps. Finish sc the row and slst. Fasten off. Add any last-minute body
stuffing here.

Figure 13 Figure 14

Arms:
Repeat the process of leg one, but only make enough rows to cover the wire arms. Fasten off both
arms with long tails.

Head:
With body color and size 4mm crochet hook, make a magic circle with six single crochets worked into the
center. Slst to join. Use a stitch marker to help keep track of stitches.
Row 1: ch 1. Inc in the round. Slst to join. (12 sts).
Row 2: ch 1. [sc, inc] in the round. Slst to join. (18 sts).
Row 3: ch 1. [sc, sc, inc] in the round. Slst to join. (24 sts).
Row 4-7: ch 1. Sc in the round. Slst to join (24 sts).
I attached my safety eyes between row 6-7, four stitches apart.
Row 8: ch 1. [sc, sc, sc2tog] in the round. Slst to join. (18 st).
Row 9: ch 1. [sc, sc2tog] in the round. Slst to join. (12 sts).
Row 10: ch 1. Sc2tog in the round. Slst to join. Do not sew hole closed. Fasten off with long tail. (6 sts).
***note: this is an average pattern for a ball. If you need your doll’s head to be larger, add more increase rows
before row 4.

Ears (Make 2):

 With body color, chain 8.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook. Hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sc in
last st. fasten off with tail for sewing.

Sewing:
Use yarn tails and yarn needle to sew the head, arms, and ears onto your body piece. I first sewed the
head onto the body by attaching the hole of the head to the hole of the neck. Then I sewed on the
arms to the chain of the shoulders and the armpit section. Lastly, I pinched the ears into triangles and
sewed them about two rows above the eyes. Move all ends to the back of your doll.

Embroidery:
Follow photos for the embroidery of the nose. (my photos do not show the nose in the right place, I
forgot to take photos of me stitching the actual nose).

Insert yarn needle with Insert yarn needle Insert needle up under The finished nose should
nose color from a higher through where you want the horizontal stitch and look like this. With your
stitch down to where you the left side of the nose through the top of the needle, you can weave
want the right side of the to be placed and down head. Pull through. the ends through the
nose to be placed. Pull through where you want back of the doll.
yarn through, leaving a the bottom of the nose
tail. to be placed. Pull
through.

All your tails from sewing

and embroidery should
be weaved through the
back of the doll. You can
then weave them inside
the doll or weave them
through and cut the tails.
Sweater:
Front:
Using 3 weight yarn and 4mm knitting needles, cast on stitches until they measure slightly bigger than
your doll’s torso. See figure 15. Keep a note of how many stitches you casted on. I casted on 19.

Figure 16

Figure 13

Row 1-2: work 1x1 ribbing (k1p1) across.

Row 3: knit across.
Row 4: purl across.
Row 5-Neckline: repeat row 3 and 4 until your piece fits over the front of your doll, ending on a purl
row.
Row 6: Knit stitches for the shoulder. I knit 6 stitches for mine. Knit two more stitches to begin your
cast off of the neck hole. Cast off stitches until there is an equal amount of stitches left on the other
shoulder. Knit the last stitches. It should look like figure 16.
Finishing the First Shoulder:
Row 7: turn over and purl the shoulder stitches.
Row 8: Knit the shoulder.
Row 9: Purl the shoulder.
Row 10: knit two to begin cast off. Cast off the shoulder. Fasten off.
Finishing the Second Shoulder:
The stitches of the second shoulder should still be on a needle.
Row 11: attach yarn and purl the shoulder.
Row 12: knit the shoulder.
Row 13: purl the shoulder.
Row 14: knit two to begin cast off. Cast off the shoulder. Fasten off.
Back:
Cast on the same number of stitches as the front piece.
Row 1-2: knit 1x1 ribbing.
Row 3: knit across.
Row 4: purl across.
 Row 5-end: repeat 3-4 until your back piece is the same length as the front piece (including shoulders),
ending on a purl row. Turn, and cast off. Figure 17 shows finished front and back pieces.

Figure 17 Figure 18

Sleeves:
To measure how to make your sleeves, you can use the front piece and the back piece. Place the front
piece on the front of the doll and the back piece around the arm. As seen in figure 18, the back piece is
a few stitches too wide and a few stitches too long. So, I know for the sleeve that I should cast on a few
less stitches and do a few less rows than I did for the back.

Cast on stitches. I cast on 16.

Row 1: Work one row of ribbing.
Row 2: knit across.
Row 3: purl across.
Row 4-End: repeat row 2-3 until the sleeve is long enough, ending on a purl row. Turn and cast off the
sleeve. Fasten off with long tail.

Repeat the same steps for the other sleeve.

Sewing:
Back and Front:
First, place your front and back pieces on your doll. Use the tails to sew the shoulders of the front piece
to the back piece. Sew the side seams under the arms (figure 19).
***note: if your yarn is stretchy, you may be able to sew the sweater separately. Mine did not
fit over the doll’s head, so I had to sew the pieces while they were around the body.
 Figure 20
Figure 19

Sleeves:
Sew the side seams of the sleeves before attaching them to the body.

Pull the sleeve over the arm, and line up the side seam with the side seam of the body (figure 20). Use
a yarn tail to sew around the arm seam. Repeat for the other sleeve.

Weave in the ends.

And that is everything!!!!

Thank you for purchasing this pattern!
Please tag me with your finished project on tik tok, I would love to see it!

My final dimensions:
From ear to foot: 11.5 inches
From tip of arm to tip of arm: 9 inches
Circumference of body: 7 inches