A really good banh mi is one of my favorite lunchtime treats.
So when I heard about Mi-Sant, a new Roseville restaurant specializing in banh mi, croissants and other Vietnamese items, I knew I’d have to get there sooner rather than later.
The operation, in a former Baker’s Square restaurant near Rosedale Center, is takeout only for now, as they get their feet under them, so I ordered lunch to go and had a picnic with friends.
I ordered online and picked up inside the space, which is so modern and fresh that you’d never know its former life was as a well-worn chain restaurant. It was busy. Very busy. And because the staff is new, my order took a while. (As an aside, I’d like to encourage patience at all restaurants at the moment, because most are getting used to full capacity limits again, and most are woefully understaffed.)
The owners are second-generation Vietnamese-Americans, and one of them, Quoc Le, is the son of the owners of the legendary Trung Nam bakery on University Avenue in St. Paul, so I had high expectations.
And happily, those expectations were exceeded.
Let’s start with the baguette, which is the basis for every good banh mi sandwich: This one is light and airy, with just the right amount of crisp to the crust. It holds the fillings, of which there are many options, perfectly. We really enjoyed each one we tried — a very umami bulgogi beef; an herbaceous, tender lemongrass chicken; and tender grilled pork.
Those fillings are also brilliantly used to make bowls — the basis of which can be rice, or rice noodles — or spring rolls. It’s a great option for those who don’t eat bread.
But for those who are on the gluten train, I cannot recommend highly enough the croissants here. My favorite way to eat them was in a breakfast sandwich, stuffed with egg, cheese and your choice of meat — we loved the nod to Minnesota’s favorite canned protein, Spam.
The sweet croissants are great, too, though. We tried the almond and one stuffed with blueberries and cream cheese and really enjoyed both.
For the trendy among us, there is bubble tea, but also a killer Vietnamese coffee, served hot or iced.
The first location of Mi-Sant is in Brooklyn Park, where a drive-through window from its former life as a fast-food restaurant served it well. I can see this concept popping up like daisies all across the metro, but for now, it’s definitely worth the drive to Roseville.
Small Bites are first glances — not intended as definitive reviews — of new or changed restaurants.
Mi-Sant
- Where: 1881 W. Minnesota 36, Roseville
- Contact: 651-444-8107; mi-sant.com
- Prices: Sandwiches run from $6-$8; bowls from $9.50-$11; croissants, $3.75-5
- Good to know: Ample on-site parking; gluten-free, vegetarian and vegan options
