Ed’s 5-star review:
First things first, if you're working off an all-you-can-eat sensibility and think that "Man vs. Food" is the height of culinary aesthetics, you might as well go to the CPK up the block. However, if you feel like taking your palate out for an adventurous albeit thoughtfully choreographed spin, then chef Corey Lee's intimate restaurant will likely do the trick. If you can get your appetite around bites rather than servings, you will then see why I chose Benu to mark my 1,800th review milestone. Besides, it was Jamie W.'s birthday, and I wanted to go somewhere, well...special, a place that doesn't offer a Groupon yet.
I had not been to this location since the increasingly disappointing Two closed, so I wasn't aware the entrance was shifted behind an elegantly zen terrace with Japanese dwarf maples. In fact, we weren't even sure the main glass doors led to Benu since there is no signage. The impeccably suited host opened the door and immediately took my coat. Just so you know, this is the kind of place where everyone speaks quietly and deferentially. Our reservation wasn't until 7:30PM, but we were politely seated a half-hour early. For a place with such buzz, we were surprised how sparsely populated the dining room was.
The menu is minimal as I assume focus is more on execution than variety. They don't follow the Jack in the Box model, more the In-n-Out model where they focus on a few things right rather than a lot of things badly. I counted just ten dishes across the appetizers and entrees, and each sounded fascinating. But before we got to any of those, we received a small box with long, paper-thin rectangular wafers that turned out to be Buckwheat Lavash with Nori (Seaweed) (see photo). This was their stylish take on a bread basket.
To take particular note of Jamie's big day, we ordered a couple of $23 flutes of the lightly fermented Ployez-Jacquemart Extra Brut Rose. An equally sparkling amuse bouche followed - Cherry Blossom Granita with Yogurt, Cucumber and Pistachio (see photo). All this was simply the overture to the main part of the meal. Jamie ordered the $12 Summer Squash Hot Pot with a Pine Nut Tofu and Tomato, which was a refreshing concoction for a mid-summer supper. Mine was the $16 Abalone Glenobloise with the sprigs of charred cauliflower barely peeking out from the three meaty pieces of flavorful abalone mollusks (see photo).
For his entree, Jamie went for the heartiest-sounding dish on the menu, the $32 Beef Braised in Pear, Shiitake Mushroom, Lily Bulb, Lettuce and a Bone Marrow Vinaigrette (see photo). The meat was ridiculously tender with the meld of flavors adding a sweet-savory accent that I've never tasted before. I ordered the more exotic $38 Whole Japanese Sea Cucumber Stuffed with Shrimp, which came with Pork Belly, Cucumber, Eggplant, and Fermented Pepper (see photo). It was an innovative take on surf-and-turf that turned the sea cucumber into a delicate but tasty cannoli-like creation.
To end our dining experience, Jamie had the $10 Almond Brioche with Apricot, Buttercream, and Osmanthus, the latter of which must have been represented by the colorful gelatinous caps (see photo). There was also a sheet of edible cellophane, color coordinated of course, placed on top as a decorative accent. My dessert was the more conventional-sounding $12 Chocolate Pudding with Cherry, Walnut and Candied Barley (see photo), which turned out to be a carnival of sweet, rich flavors dazzling presented with the cherry in both candied and ice cream forms and the barley almost like snowflakes.
Naturally given how exalted the meal was, we were given four complimentary artisan chocolates (see photo) as the final movement in what was a culinary symphony. Before we wafted away from our palate-titillated experience, we were able to meet Corey who was beyond cordial to these intruders to his immaculate kitchen staffed with what looked to be at least eight sous-chefs. No less a luminary than Momofuku's David Chang just tweeted this was the best restaurant ever, but be forewarned that this is not a dining experience for everyone. Clearly, if you're looking for a belt-unbuckling, toothpick-flicking meal with a to-go bag of leftovers, this is not it.
FOOD - 5 stars...creativity this startling needs to be commended...kudos to Corey
AMBIANCE - 4.5 stars..unostentatious, sparse but womb-like
SERVICE - 4.5 stars...deferential, attentive
TOTAL - 5 stars...special occasion dining for the semi-adventurous palate not looking for a belly-busting meal