Ed’s 5-star review:
Y'know, when you go to the movies and you see those Fandango commercials before the previews? The ones with the paper bag puppets. Yeah, those ads. Well, my favorite is the Bollywood musical number (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pqCKoGhc-qA). That has nothing to do with this review except I just had some great Indian food. OK, maybe that's still a stretch...
Even though West Portal sounds like a gateway to heaven or at least the entrance to a really pricey Greek-style spa, it's actually one of those neighborhoods in which I rarely venture. I'm a downtown type of guy that refers to anything in this area as "somewhere over Twin Peaks". Shame on me for having such a limited vantage point since there are a lot of cool eateries around here of which this is one of the best.
Five of us commandeered a table in this low-key Indian restaurant (...not to be mistaken for Rotee, the also stellar and slightly more casual place in the Haight). It was abuzz with activity that night, but the decor was soothing to this savage beast. Mustard walls. Silk fabrics framed on the walls. Soft lighting. Just the right vibe for the type of dinner that five friends, who hadn't seen each other in a while, wanted to have. On our appetite meter, we were definitely more than peckish moving toward full-blown famished.
So to cut to the chase, we went for two orders of the $33-per-person Roti's Feast, which you may see as our lazy way to get around the menu. Yes, t'is true...but that's because everything looked so good. We received assorted samosas and pakoras which we promptly subdivided, a mixed tandoori plate, murgh masala, dal, pulao, kachumber, raita, naan, kheer and chai. If you recognize more than three names on that list, you have a more sophsticated palate than mine.
I actually don't recall the chai, but I was so wrapped up in the dinner conversation that I may have overlooked it in favor of the wine. We also went for the dessert-like $16 Lamb Korma, which was bathing in a spicy cream sauce and topped with almonds & cashew nuts. Very tasty. We also shared the $10 Aloo Gobi, which had cauliflower and potato chunks cooked with onions, turmeric, and fresh herbs. The $4 Onion Kulcha was excellent as it was naan stuffed with herbs, spices and onions The dishes were becoming a blur of furious flavors at this point in the evening.
No matter as I plan to return to the wilds of West Portal even if it means going outside my geographic comfort zone. Even with all the Indian options in my part of town, including Rotee and Indian Oven, the food is just that good here. So prepare the horses and the wagons and if you are not of such pioneer stock, you are still allowed to take a Muni train. It's worth the trek in any case.
FOOD - 5 stars...rich, tasty Indian food in the Wild, Wild West Portal area
AMBIANCE - 4.5 stars...warm, not ostentatious and seemingly quite popular
SERVICE - 4 stars...relatively prompt and serviceable
TOTAL - 5 stars...for the food mainly...scale Twin Peaks and bring a Fandango-inspired paper bag puppet to entertain yourself in case there is a wait