Alnmouth
Alnmouth is a village on the coast of Northumberland in northeast England, at the outflow of the River Aln. In 2021 the population was 444.
Understand
[edit]- "A small sea-port town, famous for all kinds of wickedness", according to the Methodist leader John Wesley.
Alnmouth is first reliably documented in 1152, but has obviously been inhabited much longer. It was a small fishing port, with a busy spell in the 17th / 18th centuries with ship-building, exporting grain and importing guano as fertiliser. In those days the village extended further south, as the River Aln made a loop around Church Hill, but in 1806 a storm broke through the sandhills and the river adopted its present straighter course. The shallow harbour was inadequate for 19th century vessels but the arrival of the railway in 1847 turned Alnmouth into a beach resort. It's a quiet place until the summer sun brings day-trippers from Newcastle.
Get in
[edit]
Newcastle Airport (NCL IATA) is 40 miles south on A68. Take the Metro into Newcastle city centre for trains and buses.
1 Alnmouth railway station is on the London - Newcastle - Edinburgh main line. Most trains rush through non-stop but there's an hourly service from Newcastle upon Tyne taking 25 min via Morpeth, and continuing to Berwick-upon-Tweed, Dunbar and Edinburgh.
The station is 1½ miles west of town in Hipsburn, see below for buses and taxis. It has a staffed ticket office and machines. No cafe, and the toilets are closed ufn. There is step-free access to both platforms.
By road follow A1 to Alnwick then A1068 to Hipsburn then B1338 into Alnmouth.
Arriva Northumbria Bus X18 runs hourly from Newcastle Haymarket, taking 1 hr 45 min via Gosforth, Morpeth, Amble, Warksworth and Hipsburn (for station). In Alnmouth it turns around at the war memorial roundabout near the art gallery then returns to Hipsburn and onward to Alnwick (15 min). Two buses per day carry on up the coast to Craster, Beadnell, Seahouses, Bamburgh, Belford, Beal (for Lindisfarne) and Berwick.
Bus X20 runs M-Sa hourly from Newcastle via Ashington, Lynemouth and Hipsburn to Alnwick, but doesn't come into Alnmouth.
Get around
[edit]The bus connects Alnmouth, the railway station and Alnwick.
The local taxi firm is Knights (+44 7760 751667). Alnwick-based taxis also serve Alnmouth.
There is no ferry across the river to Church Hill. The river can be forded for about two hours either side of low tide: it's easier if you squelch barefoot and carry your boots. The work-around at other states of tide is a four-mile hike via the bridge and coastal path.
See
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- Town centre along Northumberland St is a pleasant mix of 18th and 19th century low-rise.
- St John the Baptist Church is Anglican, consecrated in 1876.
- 1 Old School Gallery, Foxton Rd NE66 3NH, ☏ +44 1665 830554. M-Sa 10AM-5PM, Su 10AM-4PM. Commercial art gallery with changing exhibitions and outdoor cafe.
- 2 Alnmouth Gun Battery was built in 1881 during a panic that the French would invade. This seems to have scared off the French, who invaded Tunisia instead; it was rebuilt during World War One but never saw action.
- 3 Ferryman's Hut is a dinky cabin on Riverside Rd full of memorabilia of the rowboat ferry across the river, which plied from about 1900 to the 1960s. It's open 24 hours.
- 4 Church Hill across the river is marked by a cross, a replica of the ancient cross of St Waleric's chapel, wrought in Lindisfarne. St Waleric's was already teetering through coastal erosion before the storm of 1806 toppled it. The 1870s saw a plan to re-open the old cemetery here, and a mortuary chapel was built 50 yards south of the cross, but the plan fell through. The chapel roof was removed to discourage squatters.
- 5 Alnmouth Saltmarsh and Dunes is an SSSI, a Site of Special Scientific Interest, encompassing the estuary of the River Aln, its former course looping around Church Hill, and the dunes south of the river. Together with other protected shoreline to the north and south it forms part of the Northumberland Shore SSSI.
Do
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- Beaches: the village beach is sandy; it's interrupted by a rocky patch then continues north of the golf course. There's a longer beach south of the river but there you have to worry about the tides for getting back.
- Golf: two courses lie side by side along the shore.
- - Almouth Village GC is the southern or lower course, starting from Marine Rd in the village. It's 9 holes: the design is credited to Mungo Park (1836-1904), winner of the 1874 Open, and he was certainly the first club pro. He's not to be confused with Mungo Park from Selkirk (1771-1806), who had some bother with a water hazard while searching for a course in Africa. To be specific, the course of the Niger.
- - Alnmouth GC (aka Foxton Hall) is the northern or upper course of 18 holes. The club ran both courses until the village club split off in 1936. White tees 6406 yards, par 71, visitor round £75. They have accommodation in the Dormy House.
- - and see Alnwick for the Castle GC.
- Northumberland Coastal Path hugs the coast for 62 miles from Cresswell north to Berwick, and is usually done as a series of there-and-back Sunday strolls. The local section is from Warkworth along the coastal dunes, then parallel to A1086 to take B1338 into Alnmouth. Continue north along the beach past Boulmer and Howick to Craster.
- Sailing: River Aln Boat Club are based at 25 Riverside Rd by the Ferryman's Hut.
- The Friary, Alnwick NE66 3NJ. Founded in 1961, this is a community of Franciscan friars living in simplicity and seclusion. You can join them for religious retreats or volunteer work, and they're open to all for a cup of tea at 4:30PM daily.
- Alnmouth Arts Festival is principally a display and sale of local artwork, at several village venues. The next is probably 14-15 June 2025, tbc.
Buy
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- Village Store, 52 Northumberland St NE66 2RJ. Daily 8AM-6PM. Convenience store and Post Office.
- Supermarkets are clustered at the east edge of Alnwick.
Eat
[edit]- School Yard Pizza is a food truck outside the art gallery, April-Oct Sa Su noon-8PM. Mixed reviews.
- Sun Inn at 29 Northumberland St has decent grub and 3 rooms. Dog-friendly.
- Whittling House has the best dining, see Sleep.
- Bistro 23 / Tea-Cosy Cafe is at 23 Northumberland St, open M F Su 11AM-4PM, W Th Sa 11AM-4PM, 7-10PM.
- Scott's is a deli with cafe and wine bar at 15 Northumberland St, open daily 10AM-3:30PM.
- Nanna Pats is a cafe at 58 Northumberland St, open daily 10AM-3:30PM.
Drink
[edit]- Red Lion is at 22 Northumberland St. They serve pizza daily plus Sunday lunch and have rooms.
Sleep
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- Hope & Anchor, 42 Northumberland St NE66 2RA (50 yards north of Whittling House), ☏ +44 1665 830363. The rooms are okay but food and service are sometimes poor. B&B double £120.
- St Valery, 27 Northumberland St NE66 2RA (next to Whittling House), ☏ +44 1665 833123. Open Feb-Oct, this is a beautiful welcoming B&B in a Victorian villa, dog-friendly. B&B double £200.
- 1 Whittling House, 24 Northumberland St NE66 2RA, ☏ +44 1665 463001. Restaurant with stylish rooms, some dog-friendly. B&B double £150.
- 2 Schooner Hotel, 8 Northumberland St NE66 2RS, ☏ +44 1665 830216. A coaching inn dating to the 1600s. Mixed reviews for comfort and cleanliness. B&B double £80.
- 3 Nether Grange (HF Holidays), Marine Rd NE66 2RZ, ☏ +44 1665 830431. Accommodation and guided or self-guided walking holidays of 2 to 7 nights.
- 4 Shoreside Camping Huts, Alnwick NE66 3BD, ☏ +44 1665 830554. Four comfy cabins by the golf course, open year-round, minimum stay of 2 nights. Double (room only) £230.
- Self-catering: lots of cottages.
Connect
[edit]As of August 2024, Alnmouth and its approach roads have 4G from O2, Three and Vodafone, and 5G from EE.
Go next
[edit]- Alnwick is a charming market town with a sumptuous castle.
- Craster is a fishing village to the north, with the scenic ruin of Dunstanburgh Castle.
- Lindisfarne is a tidal island with a ruined priory and elegantly refurbished castle. Check the tides before visiting.