Costuming:TS snowtrooper

Snow Trooper

Model TS 7143, Photo by Rob “Ice Axe” Kittell

Visit the Gallery for this Costume for more models and parts views.

	Description: Snow Trooper Prefix: TS Detachment: Blizzard Force Context: Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back These troopers wear specialized cold weather gear for frozen, hostile environments

For 501st membership only the requirements in black need to be met.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type. This document is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. Details on construction may be found on the respective costume detachment web forum. GMLs uncertain about an aspect of submitted costume shall post questions in the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the Legion forum. Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval. Requirements for all 501st costumes are proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size. Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

Helmet Centered on top of the helmet dome is a solid, flat disk detail (plastic or metal). Piece may be either silver, brass or white in color. Should be no more than .5" in diameter, recommended 0.47". Goggles / eye lenses of the helmet provides a relatively accurate shape. Not cut too small or too large. Lenses are a medium to dark green. Cowl on the helmet is made from a smooth and dull or semi-glossy, medium to heavy weight white material. Ideally the cowl is made from a 2 layers of white Kiss Laminate, glued together with hobby adhesive spray. Alternatively you can use a white “Marine” vinyl material. Cowl is proportionate with helmet size. Front of Cowl should generally extend to just above or be in line with the top of the arch-detail of the chest plate when the wearer is standing up straight. Cowl may extend past the arch-detail of the chest, but should not be excessive or extend to mid-section of the chest. Length may vary depending on wearer's body type and can be taken into account, but should fall in line with aforementioned guidelines. Front and back of the cowl meet in the middle over the wearer's upper collar bone/traps. NOTE: Where both halves of the cowl meet, they should not be glued/fixed together. They may overlap or appear to be split from the main helmet's body, but wearer's head/neck should not be exposed as a result. Sides of cowl may extend to just over the tops of the wearer's shoulder bells, but not cover them completely. Cowl cut style impacts this appearance; So long as the shoulder bridges from the chest plate are covered (with the exception of the rear) it is generally within tolerance. The back of the cowl extends down far enough to cover the back of the neck and fall between the the troopers back and backpack. Helmet shroud is contoured around the eyes of the helmet and flares out near the shoulders. Rear of helmet shroud has (6) square box indented details Helmet brow width should be approx. 1/2". Leeway given if scaled properly for larger or smaller-made helmet. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Duster Made of white/off-white (ivory) material. Duster appears grayish or dirty, after weathering. Overall appears to fit loosely and/ or baggy to wearer. Not too tight or "slim" fit. Made of medium to heavy weight fleece or wool, that “pills” after wear. Extends down to the tops of the boots but no further than the top of the ankle. Front corners of the duster are rounded. Front portion of the Duster extends to either reach OR cover the top edge of the cod piece when worn. The front-open portion of the Duster wraps around the front, far enough to cover the sides of the codpiece. Duster includes two belt loops, one on each side, at about the belly button line. Belt loops are made of the same material as the duster (fleece/wool), and wide enough for the abdomen belt (which should be approx 2 1/4" wide). No external pockets are authorized. There is no set securing method, but the bib portion of the duster is not visible when wearing the chest piece. Weathered appropriately. Color palette should be a tan-brown color, if not a dirty light grey, and have a fairly consistent/uniform color across the entirety duster. Additional application of dirt/weathering along the bottom portion of the duster to mimic natural weathering is appropriate. Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Shoulder Armor Shoulders match visual reference. See the Snowtrooper Shoulder Armor detail page for more information. Shoulders have (7) trapezoid shaped box details along the bottom. Rim is raised the entirety of the shoulder bell, merging into a rounded detail mid-way on both sides. Shoulders are attached directly to the Duster via personal discretion. No visible attachment method is present, UNLESS it is sewn. Optional: The armor is (or appears to be) sewn onto the duster, via (3) spaced areas along the upper edge. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Forearm Armor Made of plastic or fiberglass, each forearm is different in details. See the Snowtrooper Forearm Armor detail page for more information. Placement is not consistent; they are interchangeable. Forearms have an unadorned/smooth curved cuff. Made of matching material as the main body Not a soft cloth material. Wrist cuff appears attached to forearm with no visible spatial gaps. Appearance of overlapping plastic is acceptable. It is attached to the outsides of the main forearm, not the inside. The addition of a strap to further secure the forearm piece is allowed, but is not considered screen accurate. If done, this strap matches the duster for reduced visibility. Optional: Split cuff is allowed per film reference, in that the wearer's INSIDE cuff is NOT visibly attached to the forearm and the wearer's OUTSIDE cuff is visibly attached to the forearm. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Gloves and Hand Plates White/off-white (ivory) gloves. Gardening gloves are movie accurate such as Wells Lamont or similar design of glove. Gloves have elastic wrist/cuff. No buttons or snaps. Cuff excess is tucked into the forearm/ duster sleeve. Hand plates are a mirrored design (both are different for each hand). Hand plates are in the same style as ESB TK hand plates. Placement is not consistent; they are interchangeable. Optional: The armor is (or appears to be) sewn onto the gloves, with stitching on four corners of the hand plates. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) for handplates. Fpr Gloves, a light use of black to obtain a dirty or "greasy" dirty appearance. Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Chest Armor Chest Armor matches visual references. See the Snowtrooper Chest Armor detail page for more information. Accurate shape/design to front of chest. Outer rim has a continuous trim edge. As well as a raised trim on the recessed box. Shoulder straps are Stormtrooper style and secured to the chest armor by one Chicago screw/Binding Post on the front, centered onto the first raised rectangular "step" detail. Rear of shoulder strap has same detail, securing an under-strap to the plastic. Under strap is white, made of nylon or poly webbing, at least 30mm wide, with no distinguishable stitching at least. Under strap feeds through a narrow horizontal slit below the last rectangular "step" detail of the plastic shoulder strap, secured by a rear mounted Chicago screw/Binding Post The front recessed box includes several detail pieces. One T-shaped slider knob greeblie is silver and matches the provided image. Left of the slider knob is a silver/metal plate. Two squares below metal plate detail are matching grey color. Rectangular black detail added on left portion of metal plate. Two thin-lined boxes that sit over one another on right side. Right of the slider knob is light grey. Right-hand side of chest has an elongated rectangular strip of metal with each end split-riveted (alternative are saddler's rivets) to the chest armor. Rivets are in-line/centered on either end above the LED covers. Metal strip has (3) red rectangular LED light covers/caps, spaced equidistantly and retains light diffusing plastic insert. Left-hand side of chest has two oblong shaped details which protrude outwards. They are offset and staggered from one another, one being more forward. The forward most center is a light grey. The front-face of the rearmost oblong is dark red. Outside of the rear oblong is light grey. A clear separation between the red and grey is distinguishable. Light grey box detail painted on the lower-right hand corner of chest armor Mid-chest/Rib strapping to backpack. made of nylon or poly webbing with no distinguishable stitching at least 30mm wide. Elastic is Authorized. No noticeable stitching is present. Strapping from backpack is connected to chest armor via a metal wire-like, squared off "U"-shaped fixture. Fixture is secured via two rivets (Split or saddlers OR any flat-cap style), one over the other, and is attached to the inside of chest armor, protruding outwards. Hardware is silver or a rusted brown Recommended paints: Humbrol #5 Dark AD Grey, Humbrol #21 Gloss Black and Humbrol #20 Crimson Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Backpack Paint scheme matches visual references. See the Snowtrooper Backpack detail page for more information. Backpack has distinct emblems and markings as seen on both sides as well as the top-left corner of the backpack. See reference for proper placement of emblems and markings. Secured with two soft white straps, underneath the existing plastic shoulder straps, running vertical to backpack. Secured above the hips/ribs with two additional straps connecting to the chest armor, running horizontal to backpack. Strapping from backpack is connected to chest armor via a metal wire-like squared off "U"-shaped fixture. Fixture is secured via two split -rivets (one over the other) and is attached to the inside of chest armor, protruding outwards Lower/mid chest armor has strapping to backpack. made of nylon or poly webbing with no distinguishable stitching at least 30mm wide. Elastic is Authorized. No noticeable stitching is present. Attachment to chest armor at shoulders: Refer to chest armor standards for plastic shoulder strap requirements. Connection to backpack and shoulder straps should be subdued. Optional: Screen used method utilized an older equivalent to the modern "3M Dual Lock Fastener" WARNING: If using the 3M Dual Lock Fastener, be mindful that they are incredibly difficult to take apart and you risk damaging them! Recommended paints: Humbrol #5 Dark AD Grey, Humbrol #21 Gloss Black, and Humbrol #20 Crimson (for the recessed circle details on the sides of the backpack and the red rectangle on the "face" of the pack) Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Abdomen Armor / Belt Buckle Armor is identical in design to visual references. Directly in the center is a silver disk greeblie containing three circular raised details/dots. Orientation of disk greeblie can alternate between having one dot at the top OR having two dots at the top. Two narrow vertical slits spaced on either side of Ab plate for the belt to be fed through. Belt is made from an approximately 2 1/4" wide and stiff polypropylene Webbing material but may also be a nylon webbing material. Belt does not appear saggy and is flat and straight when worn. Belt does not have any visibly obvious method of attachment and appears hidden as best as possible when worn. Suggested to overlap at the rear with velcro with the thermal detonator centered over it. Abdomen armor is worn either tapered-side up or tapered-side down. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber). Belt is also weathered with a light use of black to obtain a dirty or "greasy" dirty appearance, should not be excessive for the belt. Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Detonator Consist of a gray cylinder 2 to 2.5" in diameter with indented white end caps and a white control panel, with details closest to the right-side end cap when worn. Detonator is centered on the back of belt and is secured by two metal clips. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Pouches May be worn in front of the Duster's belt loops OR behind the Duster's belt loops. Pouches are rectangular and boxy with an angled flap. Each pouch is different having the angle pointed inward rather than being identical. Orientation of pouches is interchangeable, but are not identical (no two left-side pouches or vice versa) Pouches secure to abdomen belt, hanging just below the bottom of the belt by two loops that extend above the top of the pouch's body on the back. The top of the pouch's body is flush with the bottom of the belt. Loops are no wider than 1 ½” and must be visible when worn. Additionally, loops should be just tall enough to accommodate the belt's width with little to no visible slack. Straps match pouch material. Pouches are made of either a canvas or duck cloth material, which is white or ivory in color, however, must appear a tan-like color after weathering. Pouches should appear filled out and not flat or empty Pouches are weathered appropriately. Color palette should be tan/brown-like with a light use of black to obtain a dirty or "greasy" dirty appearance. Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Pants White/off white (ivory) pants required. Acceptable examples are karate G.I. pants, “dockers”, “Dickies” painters pants , US army Cold Weather over-pants, or something similar. No pockets, zippers, or buttons are visible when trooper is standing or moving. Covering of these items by the codpiece and/or duster is acceptable. Pants fit somewhat loosely and have enough length to properly "blouse" over the tops of the boots. Pants are weathered appropriately. Color palette should be a dirty-white to a dirty tan/brown color. Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Codpiece Worn under the Duster, over the pants. See the Snowtrooper Codpiece Armor detail page for more information. A belt rig (not visible in costume) is typically used to wear the Codpiece Codpiece has at minimum a 1" and max of 1 1/4" white color elastic strap or poly webbing attached to the bottom-center "point" of the codpiece. Strapping should be attached at the "point" 2 rivets, side by side Optional: Screen accurate method utilizes 2, 7mm x 9mm single cap rivets, each fed through a M4 x 15mm washer. (side by side) This white strap runs between the legs and attaches upwards to a point underneath the duster, commonly to the main belt of the cod-piece. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Knee Armor Knee armor is identical in design to reference photo. Knees have a white/ivory elastic strap fixed to middle section of armor when worn. Optional: Screen accurate strap is approx. 4" wide elastic, sewn along the outside-edge of knee armor. Armor is weathered appropriately. Color palette should be blacks and dark browns (burnt umber) Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Boots Canadian Mukluk boots with or without the liner. NOTE: Mukluks run larger than standard US sizes. Recommended to get at least 2 sizes smaller than your regular US shoe size. Most, but not all due to being military surplus, come with wool liners and fit may be determined to be good if you can comfortably wear the wool liners with boots. Three- 1"- 1 1/4" wide straps, made from either nylon, cotton webbing or poly webbing material, are added to the upper portion of the boots. Straps are held in place with a brass/silver Chicago screw/Binding Post along the rear-center "spine" of the boot. (one per strap) Minimal stitching is authorized if white velcro sewn onto strap. However, this stitching appears as a thin rectangular box with no cross stitching; appears as just an outline. White thread is used for this stitching. Orientation of overlapping strap is interchangeable; acceptable to have them both pointing the same direction (to the left or to the right). Optional: If you wish to retain the D-rings, laces must be present. Weathered appropriately. Color palette should be a dirty white and can vary in degree, but must not noticeably appear out of place or inconsistent with the rest of the costume's weathering style. Screen use boots used randomly applied blotches of white paint Weathering should ideally be at a medium level, not too light but not heavy or excessive. Advised to use photo references to gauge appropriate degrees of weathering.

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Optional Accessories

Items below are optional costume accessories. These items are not required for approval, but if present appear as described below. If adding in an accessory after initial approval, the item still needs to be submitted to local GML for approval before use.

	E-11 Blaster (ESB) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. D-ring mounted on the rear. Sterling based blasters have the correct M-38 or M-19 style scope. The M-19 scope is preferred. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built, resin cast, Hyperfirm rubber cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster and you cover all the rows of holes, the blaster will have 7 T-tracks total. But, if you want to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total) with the lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side, then you shall cover the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, and grind off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side and drill a new row of holes in its place.

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E-11 Blaster (ESB Promo/Stunt) Based on a real or replica Sterling sub-machine gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. Folding stock (does not need to function). No ammo counter shall be present. Correct style scope. No power cylinders on the magazine housing. Scratch-built or cast blasters shall have a total of 6 T-tracks on blaster (leaving the lowest row on the magazine housing side uncovered). If using the Hasbro E11 toy blaster, it is modified to have the correct number of T-tracks (6 total), with a lower row of open vent holes on the magazine housing side. This is accomplished by covering the pre-existing rows of holes with T-tracks, then grinding off the lower integrated T-track on the magazine housing side, and drilling a new row of holes in its place. Two greeblies on the left rear area. Three studs on the right rear area. Add two scope block greeblies. Remove front bayonet muzzle disk. Remove magazine housing parts. Remove D-Ring mount. Swoosh trim on right side above the pistol grip.

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	DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle Manufactured by BlasTech Industries, the DLT-19 heavy blaster rifle is much more powerful with a much greater range than the E-11 blaster. Because of its powerful, long range capabilities, this rifle is commonly used on Imperial controlled planets with large, clear, open areas. Based on a real or replica MG-34 machine gun.

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DLT-20a Blaster Rifle The BlasTech DLT-20A blaster rifle was a long-barreled rifle (sometimes referred to as a "longblaster") with a top-mounted rangefinder and electronic sight. It had automatic and semiautomatic settings and a rate of fire very close to that of the DC-15A blaster rifle and other longblasters. This was one of the few blaster models produced with a magnatomic adhesion grip, keeping the weapon firmly in the wielder's grip and making him or her more difficult to disarm. With additional collimating rings and longer conduits of galven circuitry, these rifles have improved consistency in their shots. Based on a real or replica STG-44 machine gun, with parts from the Browning M1919. Real or prop scope. Flat or semi-gloss black. Blaster is lightly weathered.

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	Holster Holster is the appropriate color and style for the specific blaster. Holster is not present if no blaster is carried.

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• This CRL is available as a PDF

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