Ask pretty much anyone who has done some fine dining in Santa Fe what their favorite dish was at their favorite restaurant experience, and there’s a good chance it will be the elk tenderloin at Geronimo. Perhaps that dish’s fame illustrates why this world-class, popular, and beloved eatery is so memorable. It’s unique, surprising, classic, contemporary, and delicious, all at once.
When I planned my foray into restaurant reviewing for Pasatiempo, I decided to start at the top. With so many dining options in our town that I refer to as “The City Deliciously Different,” I surmised that sharing my thoughts about a place that I think has set the standard in excellence for Santa Fe’s food scene would give readers an idea of where I will come from, now and in future reviews. That’s not to say that it’s all downhill from here, but rather, here is one of the best in the spectrum of terrific places to eat.
I consider many local chefs and restaurateurs to be friends. How can you ask a parent which child is their favorite? I love them all, but will start with the magna cum laude.
In a town where parking can be challenging, it’s great to note that Geronimo has valet parking. That dapper gentleman with square shoulders (and jaw) and killer smile who greets you at the door is likely owner Chris Harvey, who certainly looks the part and fills the role of host and maître d’ extraordinaire. Harvey started there as a waiter in 1992 and has a lengthy tenure as GM and owner since 1994. He glides throughout the handsome dining areas, overseeing the proceedings and setting the tone for the top-notch service.
Jim Davis, and his partner Nancy Morgan, of Albuquerque, celebrate Nancy’s birthday at Geronimo on Friday, June 21, 2024.
Our young server belies her years with menu and wine knowledge; she started as a captain’s assistant seven years ago and is now a full-fledged captain, and rightly so. What exemplifies excellent service is an attentive server who is there when you need them and visits the table without interrupting the conversation. I am always impressed that the staff here seems to be connected and in cahoots with keeping things flowing without intrusion.
The food runners announce the dishes they are presenting but also are able to read what is going on at the table. Dishes, plates, cutlery, and glassware that we are done with are swiftly removed, thus conquering one of my pet peeves: a cluttered table of used service items.
Guests are welcomed with a glass of New Mexico’s own Gruet bubbly, a classy start and a sign that Geronimo wants you to unplug from your day. The adobe walls of the former Borrego House residence built in 1756 are a calming eggshell color, while the banquettes and chairs boast a rich burnt caramel tone. The fireplace by the front door is dormant during warmer months but fires up in the winter. Although the dress code is “smart casual,” the atmosphere inspires diners to want to dress up.
The front room has a VIP vibe and is often where regulars, cognoscenti, and special occasion diners are seated; the center cozy bar is mostly for single and double diners. The back room is slightly larger, but all areas are equally comfortable, and I have enjoyed dining in all of them.
As the delicious brioche and crisp lavash arrive, my dining companion, himself a wine writer, and I discuss our post-Gruet wine options. We opt for single glasses so we can pair each course. As Geronimo veterans, we both vow to try not to limit our choices to our all-time favorite dishes, a challenge when confronted with Hawaiian ahi tuna sashimi and tartare and Vermont-raised quail and foie gras.
The Hawaiian ahi tuna sashimi and tartare are menu staples and favorites of the reviewer.
We can’t pass up the long-standing dish with the tartare, delivered with slabs of seared tuna alongside a mound of chopped tuna that is enriched with cubes of avocado, all of which is served with delicate buttermilk scallion pancakes and small dollops of fiery wasabi aioli and tangy lime soy syrup (delish!).
Because we are on the cusp of summer, we chose a Hecht & Bannier Granache Rosé de Provence that has light strawberry and vanilla notes to accompany the tuna and a new-to-us dish of Arborio rice risotto topped with chunks of lobster, rock shrimp, a king crab leg, and a rich lobster beurre blanc. The bright rosé cuts through the richness of both dishes without overpowering the flavorful but mild seafood in this scrumptious dish.
Since I am not reviewing restaurants anonymously (although the idea of donning disguises à la Peter Sellers in The Pink Panther was tempting), Executive Chef Sllin Cruz sent out additional dishes for us to sample knowing I was keeping an eye on the budget (you could love a chef like that). Chef Cruz, who was born in Michoacán, Mexico, came to the United States when he was 13 and worked his way up in the restaurant industry until finally starting at Geronimo as chef de cuisine under heralded Eric DiStefano in 2015.
The grilled asparagus salad is a can’t miss dish at Geronimo.
It was DiStefano who put Geronimo on the culinary map by creating some of the dishes that still remain on the menu. A great friend of mine, I feel his presence every time I return. Certainly the elk will forever be attributed to his vast talent as well as the tuna tartare, crab cakes, grilled lobster, and more.
“Eric elevated the Santa Fe dining scene and raised the bar on what people thought fine dining was,” Harvey says. “His influence brought attention to Santa Fe.”
Cruz took over the kitchen in 2016 after DiStefano’s untimely death that year, and, as a testament to his previous boss’ talent, added several new hit dishes in the same world-class vein. Since that year, he and Harvey also have been co-owners of the booming restaurant.
Cruz sends us a middle course, a fresh and springy grilled asparagus salad of frisée, arugula, a poached egg, and a duo of dressings — basil-chive aioli and bacon-shallot vinaigrette. The egg’s runny yolk marries the flavors together (more delish). My friend pairs it with a crisp and dry Pierre Sparr Grande Réserve Riesling with lemony notes that goes perfectly with the greens.
Our main course has to include that famous elk tenderloin, which is delivered medium-rare and fork tender with roasted garlic mashed potatoes, sugar snap peas, and applewood-smoked bacon and brandied mushroom sauce — a stunner worthy of its fame.
Is it, perhaps, the most delicious meat dish in town? I never thought it possible to grill baby lamb chops and leave them rare in the middle and as charred and crusty as fabulous barbecue burnt ends on the outside, but Cruz succeeds and manages to rival the elk tenderloin. The dish includes a merlot in the sauce reduction, so our glasses of Sokol Blosser Estate Pinot Noir, with its juicy dark fruit tones, and bold and tannin-rich Ridge Three Valleys Zinfandel continues the red wine theme deliciously.
Although we are bursting, skipping dessert here would be a sin. So we order the light (ha!) and tart fresh Meyer lemon crêpe, which is plump with lemon curd and crème fraiche and comes with a shot of Limoncello to gild the lily. I won’t ruin the surprise to be found in the simply named “Apple,” but it is a work of art and as tempting as the one in the Garden of Eden. Kudos to pastry chef Ericka Hernandez for creating such delicacies to close out our meals.
While the elk and lamb are top-notch, Geronimo also offers a well-executed vegetarian tasting menu that I have often selected courses from and added to my carnivore meal (the wild mushroom and sherry bisque is divine). The full bar — there are always a few sleek martinis floating by on server trays — and its award-winning wine list all add to the Geronimo dining joys.
As Santa Fe and New Mexico evolve as culinary destinations, Geronimo continues to lead the pack. Long may she reign. ◀
