Center Punch Grinding Jig

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Novices’
Corner
A Centre-punch
Grinding Rest
I N last week’s article an extemporised

rest for grinding centre-punches
was described, but if this is made in
rather more elaborate form it will be
found a useful article of workshop
equipment, and, at the same, time its Fig. I. Showing the V-rest attached to the grinding table
construction will provide some interest-
ing workshop practice.
The dimensions given, may, of course, have Finally, the surfaces of the part should be
to be varied to suit a particular grinding machine. given a good finish by careful filing with a fine
The general arrangement drawing, or in this file.
case the photograph in Fig. I, is intended to The clamp, part (2): is made from a piece of
show the worker what he has to make, and the mild-steel I in. wide and 1/2 in. thick. The work
working drawings in Fig. 2 give the dimensions is painted with marking fluid, and its contour
of all the parts. The V-rest, part (I), is made is marked-out with the jenny calipers, but for
from a length of 1/2in. x 1/8 in. mild-steel strip, this operation it is essential that the end of
and before being cut to length, the position of material should have been made square with its
the screw holes should be marked-out as already parallel sides by filing and checking with the
described and then drilled 1/8 in., but if it is found try-square. An alternative method is to use
that these drill holes do not allow the 1/8in. one side for guiding the jenny calipers and to
1/8”
i-t
Fig. 2. Working drawings of the grinding rest
Whitworth screws to pass freely, then they apply the square to this side for marking-out
should either be enlarged with a taper broach the lines lying at right-angles.
or a No. 30 drill should be put through. Next, The work is now cut roughly to shape with
cut off the part to length and clamp it in the vice the hacksaw, and then finished to the given
with 13/16 in. projecting, then hammer over this dimensions by filing.
portion to form a right angle bend. If any difficulty is experienced in filing the
The right-angled V can be cut roughly to sides of the part flat and to a good finish, it is
shape with a small hacksaw and then finished best to rub the work to and fro on a large file
with a triangular file. The inner surfaces of the to ensure accuracy. The next step is to drill
limbs of the V should be bevelled to allow the and tap the blind hole, only, to receive one of the
punch, when in place, to turn freely. 1/8 in. diameter screws securing the V-rest in
14
THE MODEL ENGINEER JANUARY 5, 1950
position. To ensure easy tapping this hole curved surface. In this instance, the limb is
should be drilled with a No. 39 drill and to a finished to this form to give a more sightly
depth of 1/2 in. to afford ample end-clearance for appearance.
the tap. The under surface of the lower limb is now
When using the tap, care must be taken to marked out with the jenny calipers to indicate
keep it at right-angles to the work surface by the position of the clamp screw (3) ; and as
checking its position from time to time with the previously described the tapping size hole is
drilledwith a No. 3 drill while the part is held in
the machine vice.
Burrs raised Burrs prevented For the clamp screw, a standard 1/4 in. B.S.F.
‘when tapping by entering clear- bolt 3/4 in. in length may be used, or, if preferred,
this part can be made specially for the purpose
size drill and will then, perhaps, as shown in Fig. 4, have
a rather more workmanlike appearance. A length
of 3/8 in. diameter round mild-steel is secured in
the machine vice and then cross-drilled with a
No. 22 drill at a distance of 31/32 in. from the
end. The methods employed for cross drilling
shafts have been described so recently in T H E
Fig. 3 M ODEL E NGINEER that they need not be referred
to here.
square. The taper tap is first entered and is
followed by the plug tap to form a full thread
in the hole for a depth of 5/16 in.
The V-rest can now be attached to the clamp
with the single screw, and the work is clamped
in the machine vice with the jaws gripping both
the V-rest and the clamp. Should the vice
jaws ‘not be sufficiently deep to do this, then a
piece of material I in. wide by some 1/4 in. thick
should be placed i n the vice on either side of the
work to ensure that the V-rest is retained
correctly in place on the clamp. A drill fitting
the remaining hole in the V-rest is now entered
for about 1/32 in. to mark the drilling centre
and form a guide for the tapping size drill which
follows. This drill is put right through the Fig. 4. Alternative form of clamp-screwfor the rest
upper limb of the clamp and the hole is tapped
as before. This method of working ensures
that the two screws will enter their holes without The rod is next gripped in the self-centring
binding. chuck, and after the end has been faced, it is
When it was stated above that the clearing turned down to 1/4 in. diameter for a length of
size drill should be entered in the clamp for a 3/4 in. ;the tip is then chamfered by taking a light
distance of about 1/32 in., it should in fact be cut with a V-pointed tool. Next, the turned
made to enter for its full diameter to a depth portion is threaded 1/4 in. x 26 t.p.i., by using the
equal to about 1-1/2 threads ; this is to prevent tailstock die-holder, or this operation can be
the metal surrounding the hole from being carried out with an ordinary die-stock with the
raised in a burr when the tap is put in. This part held in the vice. The screw is then parted
operation which is illustrated diagrammatically off, and after it has been reversed in the chuck,
in Fig. 3 should always be carried out whenever the head is turned, faced and chamfered as shown
a hole is drilled for tapping, and before the tap is in Fig. 4. The tommy bar is made from a
entered. length of 5/32 in. diameter silver-steel, and its
It will be noticed that in the drawing in Fig. 2, ends are chamfered in the lathe, but if preferred,
showing the upper surface of the clamp, a curved a short cross-handle, like that seen in the photo-
broken line appears ; this is the conventional graph, can permanently be fixed in place.
way of indicating that a part lying underneath, This completes the work and the appliance
namely the limb of the clamp, is formed with a can now be assembled ready for use.
Locomotive Castings and Parts

A. J. REEVES & CO. have favoured us with Other useful items include castings for bogies
a copy of their 1950 catalogue which we can for making up passenger cars for 3-1/2in. and 5-in.
commend to the attention of our readers especi- gauges ; simple stationary steam engines ;
ally the locomotive-building fraternity. Its 24 boiler fittings of all kinds ; injectors ; pumps ;
pages are crowded with particulars and prices for solders ; lubricators ; a very comprehensive
castings, parts and materials for practically all range of materials ; small tools, a few other
“ L.B.S.C.'s ” well-known locomotives, as well workshop necessities and a wide selection of
as for the 0-6-0 tank engines “ Gert.” “ Daisy ” publications. The catalogue costs 6d., and should
and “ Vera ” specially designed b y Mr. A. .R. be interesting and useful to all owners of home
Donaldson. workshops, not only to locomotive enthusiasts.
15

Center Punch Grinding Jig

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Center Punch Grinding Jig

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- -+‘-- ” , 1: ~--

I N last week’s article an extemporised

Fig. 2. Working drawings of the grinding rest

Locomotive Castings and Parts

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