The Ultimate

How-to Guide
to making Perfume
Table of Contents

3 Introduction
Who is the Guide designed for?

4 The History of Perfume
The progress of perfume through ancient times to modern-day practices

6 The Basics of Fine Fragrance
Basic Information around Perfume and fragrances

9 How Perfume is Made

From ingredients to maturation, these steps highlight the process of perfumery

12 Perfume as a Business
The economic viability of starting your own perfume business

13 The Fragrasol Formula

How to create your own perfume in 3 easy steps

14 Supplier List
A comprehensive list of all suppliers to get you started!

19 Resources and References

Learn how to make

your own perfume in
3 STEPS - page 13
Einführung

From the Ancient Egyptians to the tales told from religions, humans
have always wanted to enhance their scent, emulating the smells of
nature. Not only does Perfume, or “fragrance of the gods,” have an
intimate history with mankind, but it is also a global market that is
projected to reach US$92 billion by the year 2024.

Who is this How-To Guide designed for?

This comprehensive eBook is designed to suit anyone looking for detailed information on
how to create perfume, or more facts and insights into the perfumer’s world. Packed with
relevant business information and helpful how-to’s, this guide will assist anyone wanting to:

1. Start a Perfume Business

2. Learn how Perfume is made
3. Learn how to formulate your own fragrances and scents
4. Learn what ingredients perfumes are crafted from
5. Learn how to create a homemade perfume
6. Learn about the history of perfume

Anyone with the slightest interest in fragrances or perfumery can create a signature scent.
Not only will you learn how to master the art of creating perfume, but the lessons learnt
can be applied to a range of scented crafts; including room diffusers, cosmetics, and
advanced perfumery.

This fascinating craft will push you to explore new senses and sensations, and the
satisfaction of blending your ideas to perfume perfection makes this a rewarding interest!
Read on to discover!

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History
Perfume began with the ancient Egyptians, where it
influenced the Romans, then the Greeks, and onwards
to the Oriental kingdoms. It was only when 13th century
Crusaders bought back samples to Italy, France
and England that new and innovative methods and
ingredients would lead to our contemporary perfumes.
The below timeline gives interesting insights into the
progress of perfume, which was crafted out of periods
of strife and innovation in his Natural History, that we can
recreate these scents in our modern times.

Archaeological teams unearthed an enormous factory

that existed 4 000 years ago during the Bronze Age.

How did Perfume become a modern icon?

1200 BCE | Mesopotamia

A woman named Tapputi was the first recorded chemist, with her existence found on
a 1200 BC Cuneiform tablet in Babylonian times. She was a powerful member within
the Mesopotamian government and religion as overseer of the Royal palace. She
developed methods for oil and scent extraction as the basis for perfume crafting,
with her ground-breaking techniques in solvents pushing the craft forward.

Ancient Egypt
The Ancient Egyptian wealthy families begin wearing and enthusiastically adopting
perfumes, using the scents for religious and beautification purposes. Fragrances
were thought to be the sweat of the Sun-God, Ra. Nefertum, the God of Fragrance,
even wore a head dress made of water lilies, an iconic perfume ingredient of the
time. The Ancient Egyptians also had complex recipes, formulas and apparatus
for perfumery, and imported vast amounts of ingredients from Punt, in Africa,
indicating international trade relations at play.

4
 Ancient Rome
The oldest perfumery factory, and the mythical home to the Goddess of Love,
Aphrodite, was discovered in Cyprus in 2007. Archaeological teams unearthed an
enormous factory that existed 4 000 years ago during the Bronze Age. It was over
4,000m², indicating perfume making on an industrial scale for the temples and the
people. It is estimated that by 100 AD, Ancient Romans were using 2 800 tons of
frankincense a year! There are so many perfume recipes from the ancient Romans
and Greeks, carefully penned by people like Pliny the Elder in his Natural History,
that we can recreate these scents in our modern times.

Ancient Persia
The Ancient Persians were huge stakeholders in perfume and dominated the trade
for hundreds of years. The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Avicenna (also known
as Ibn Sina) is thought to have introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers
by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today, and was first to
figure out the chemistry behind perfumes that weren’t oil-based.

Medieval Europe
After the Holy Wars in Arabia, and the already blossoming perfume industries of
other lands, Crusaders bought the concept of perfume with them on their return. The
wealthy of the time carried Pomanders, a ball of scented material kept in a beautiful
open case that was meant to ward off infections and ‘bad air.’ Here, the first alcohol-
based perfume was created. Known as Hungary Water, as it is believed to have been
crafted for the Queen Elizabeth of Hungary in 1370, using distilled alcohol and herbs.

1400-1500s | Italy
Medieval Italy was the home to the modern-day liquid perfume. After the
breakthrough discovery of aqua mirabilis, which was a clear substance made of 95
percent alcohol and imbued with strong scent. Eureka- modern day perfume! After
this, Venice became the centre of the world trade in perfume for hundreds of years.
However, it is Catherine de Medici, an Italian bride wed to the French king, who is
credited with bringing perfume to France, England and the rest of the world.

1800’s to Modern Day

By the late 1800’s, synthetic compounds were being discovered, and the
modern perfume industry was born.

5
The Basics of Fine Fragrance
Fragrance and Perfume Basic Information

Perfume is a product of the extracted oils of plants and

flowers with a base solvent, such as alcohol. Loved
from as early as 3 000 BCE, the captivating scents of
nature evoke emotions and memories that our other
senses can’t grasp. Our emotional ties to the smells that
surround us often make perfume ‘liquid memories.’

Perfume Classifications
There are 3 basic categories into which perfumes are classified:

1. The concentration or dilution level of the

essential oils to alcohol solvent
2. The scent family to which it belongs
3. The notes of the scent

Perfume Concentrations
What is the difference between Perfume, Eau de Parfum,
Eau de Toilette and Eau de Cologne? Fragrances need 3
notes to keep the
perfume well-rounded
The different names for the types of perfume refer to the
and long-lasting
concentration of perfume oil to alcohol. Perfume oils are extremely
intense, toxic and concentrated, so it needs to be distilled using
alcohol as the base.

Eau de Cologne Eau de Toilette Perfume, Parfum or Extrait Eau de Parfum

Between 2-5% Perfume Between 4-10% Perfume 15-25% Perfume oil has Between 8-15% Perfume
oil in alcohol and water, oil in alcohol, this is a light the highest fragrance oil, this is a common
this concentration is the spray composition and concentration and is the fragrance type and
most diluted and last lasts for about 3 hours. most expensive. Not always suitable for everyday wear,
for 2 hours suitable for dry or sensitive lasting up to 8 hours
skin, but usually lasts
8-24 hours

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The Fragrance Family
How to understand where a scent sits

There are numerous categories within the fragrance wheels, as well as different models of the Fragrance
Wheel. We choose to follow the Michael Edwards Fragrance Wheel, a consultant in the perfume
industry and known as the finest ‘nose’ in the world.

A Fragrance Wheel is meant to assist users in understanding the notes and styles that they desire,
although often a favourite scent is a combination of a few notes and sections! The Fragrance Wheel
breaks down the perfumes into several main categories, and then similar styles and subcategories
within each.

FLORAL NOTES ORIENTAL NOTES WOODY NOTES

Floral: Fresh cut flowers Soft Oriental: Incense & Wood: Aromatic woods
Soft Floral: Aldehydes & amber & Vetiver
powdery notes Oriental: Oriental resins Mossy Woods: Oakmoss
Floral Oriental: Orange Woody Oriental: & Amber
Blossom & sweet spices Sandalwood & Patchouli Dry Woods: Dry Woods
and Leather

FRESH NOTES FOUGÈRE NOTES

Aromatic: Aromatic Fougere is French for fern and is a combination of elements from
Herbs & Lavender the above groups, containing the largest variety of scents since it
Citrus: Citrus Oils & made up of combinations of elements from the other groups.
Bergamot
Water: Marine & Aquatic
Notes
Green: Green notes &
Galbanum
Fruity: Fruits & Berries

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Scent Notes | The Fragrance Pyramid
What are the base, heart and floral notes of perfume?

The mark of a good perfume is one that Application

tells its story over time. A perfume is meant High
to unfold as the hours progress, providing Top
new smells and notes to carry. Perfumes are Notes
formulated using 3 notes as the base- Top 15 minutes

notes, Middle Notes and Base notes. Each of

Volatility
these represent a different category of scents Middle
within the perfume’s unique recipe, and these Notes
notes interchange over time. 30 minutes

Base
Notes
Low 5 hours

These are the first impressions of a perfume. Strong, intense and bold, they introduce
Top the fragrance. Made of lighter molecules, these generally last between 10 and 30
Notes minutes before evaporation, allowing the middle notes to come to the forefront.
Examples of Top Note Scents: Citrus such as Bergamot and lime, Eucalyptus, Sage

Often known as the heart notes, these are noticed as the top notes disappear, roughly
Middle 10 minutes to 45 minutes. These are giving scents, lasting up to 6 hours.
Notes Examples of Middle Note Scents: Scents: Pine, Lavender, Pepper and Geranium

The lingering foundation of every perfume, the base notes of perfume comprise the
Base heaviest and largest molecules that take time to evaporate, even lasting beyond 24
Notes hours.
Examples of Base Note Scents: Sandalwood, Patchouli, Clove, Vanilla, Rose

Important to note that it is the middle and base notes of a fragrance that build the
foundation and roundedness of any perfume.

Create your own Perfume today!

Visit Page 13 to find out how!
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How Perfume is Made
How to Make Perfume

Gums
The Ingredients
Grass
Natural Ingredients of Perfume
Historically, perfumes were dominantly manufactured from
natural resources, such as woods, grasses, gums, resins, fruits,
Wood Fruit
spices and flowers. Flowers are especially important as it is
very difficult to create a perfume without a floral heart and Spices
floral essences, but not all flowers produce the oils needed
for scent. The Lily of the Valley, although heady in flowering
aroma, is such a plant. It is estimated that roughly 2,000 of the Flowers
250 000 known flowering plant species contain the essential
oils needed for perfumes. Perfumes can also be made with
animal products, such as musk from male deer in Tibet, castor Resins
from beavers in Canada, and ambergris from Sperm whales,
which has been outlawed since 1977.

It is estimated that only 2,000 of the 250 000 known flowering

plant species contain the essential oils needed for perfumes

The process of manufacturing natural sources is exorbitant- a 15-mililiter bottle of French perfume needs
the extracted oil from 660 roses, and Sandalwood and Rosewood demands have led to deforestation
around the world. Potential crop fails, animal suffering and conservation concerns have all driven
perfumers to start using synthetic ingredients.

Synthetic Ingredients of Perfume

Synthetic ingredients are aromatic chemicals that replicate natural
A 15ml bottle of
sources and ingredients. It is estimated that synthetic compounds
contribute to two-thirds of all the most popular fragrances made French perfume
today. Lab manufactured; synthetic ingredients have the additional needs the
benefits of a longer-lasting and denser scent through synthetic extracted oil
fixatives, the ability to blend with essential oils (allowing for from 660 roses
countless variations), and the conservation of the planet.

There are 3 main types of Synthetic ingredients for perfume:

1. Full Synthetics: These synthetics are almost entirely manufactured from petroleum by-products
2. Semi-Synthetics: Natural scents that have been modified by artificial means
3. Natural Isolates: Fragrances that sit between natural and synthetic as they have been developed
by isolating one smell from a more complex base

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Perfume Ingredient Collection
Whether large-scale or small business, it’s imperative that you have the source of your scents prior
to beginning. Plant fields must be harvested, often handpicked by quality of fragrance. Animal by-
products are extracted from the fatty substances and glands directly from the animal. Aromatic
chemicals, if using synthetic compounds, must be created in the laboratory by perfume chemists,
which we recommend.●

Perfume Extraction Methods

Below are the 5 main methods of Perfume Extraction, whereby the oils are extracted from plant and
natural matter.

Steam Distillation
This process of perfume extraction involves pushing steam through plant
material, where the essential oils turns to a gas. This gas is processed through
tubes, cooled and liquified. Some oils can be extracted by boiling parts of the
plant, such as the petals.

Solvent Extraction
Some manufacturers choose to extract using solvents. Plant parts
are dissolved in benzene, which leaves a waxy material which
contains the oils. The wax is then exposed to ethyl alcohol. During
this method, plant parts are dissolved in benzene and exposed to
ethyl alcohol, which is then burned off, leaving a higher concen-
tration of the perfume oil on the bottom.

Enfleurage
In this process of perfume extraction, flowers are placed on glass sheets
which are coated in grease. Stacked in wooden tiers, the flowers are
removed by hand and changed out until the grease has absorbed the flower
fragrance.

Maceration
Like enfleurage, maceration is a process of perfume extraction that uses warmed fats to
absorb a flower’s fragrance. Just like solvent extraction, the fats and grease are burnt off
in alcohol, leaving the essential oils behind.

Blending Your Perfume Oils

The process of blending is normally done by a master in the perfumer’s field,
commonly known as a ‘nose.’ The master perfumer has a specific formula
or recipe that often takes thousands of attempts to perfect. It could take as
many as hundreds of different ingredients and notes to develop the formula,
and years to develop to a fine fragrance.

10
Once the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The alcohol base that is used is critical to the
overall quality and longevity of the perfume, so an Ethyl alcohol with the least impurities is ideal. We
recommend using the purest ethanol available – make sure to check and compare the certificate of
analysis for impurities.

The amount of alcohol to perfumer’s oil differs greatly, and fragrances are given different names depending
on their concentration. Below is a guide to the naming protocol associated with perfume sprays:

Eau de Cologne
• Between 2-5% Perfume oil in alcohol and water
• The oldest term for perfume, this concentration is the most diluted
• Lasts for about 2 hours
• Usually sold in sprays, Eau de Cologne is normally marketed to the youth markets

Eau de Toilette
• Between 4-10% Perfume oil in alcohol
• A light spray composition with 4% – 10% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol.
• Usually lasts for about 3 hours.

Eau de Parfum
• Between 8-15% Perfume oil
• One of the most common fragrance types and is suitable for everyday wear
• Contains 15% – 20% pure perfume essence
• Lasts for about 5 to 8 hours

Perfume, Parfum or Extrait

• 15-25% Perfume oil
• Parfum, also known as extrait de parfum or pure perfume, has the highest fragrance
concentration.
• Lasts the longest of all, usually 8-24 hours
• Not always suitable for users with dry or sensitive skin
• The most expensive of all scents
• Slightly thicker and oilier

Perfume Ageing and Maturation

Once you have gathered, extracted, blended and mixed with alcohol, your perfuming concoction needs
to settle and mature. In this stage the perfume is set aside in a dark, cool space where it stays anywhere
from 30 days to one year, without any disturbances.

The ageing process allows the alcohol and oils to bind together, resulting in a collected scent. From
here, the perfumer will test the smell and make sure the fragrance has the notes that they’re looking for.
Adjustments, tweaks, and additional blending can take place here, perfecting the perfume. After any
changes, allow the perfume to sit for a few more weeks to mature.
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Perfume as a Business
The economic viability of starting your own Perfume Business

Perfuming can be quite complex, especially if reliant on natural sources, such as plant and animal oils.
Harvesting of huge fields, handpicking, collecting, extracting, blending and maturation can take a vast
amount of time, resulting in the industry only being viable to a few brands.

Modern perfumery has allowed for more new and diverse methods of manufacturing than in previous
centuries. Today, anyone can craft a signature scent using synthetic compounds instead of natural oils.
Another trend is the market’s desire for less concentrated forms of perfume that are less drying and
more for everyday uses. The combined factors of lab created ingredients and lower concentrations
of pure perfume have resulted in the decreased costs of scents, encouraging more widespread and
frequent use by consumers, and allowing new business opportunities for those interested.

120

100
92
Market size in billion U.S. dollars

88.5
85.1
81.8
80 78.6
72.7 75.6
69.9
67.2
65.6
60.6 61.6 61.6
60

40

20

The economic viability of the perfume industry is expected to

grow at rapid rates in the coming years. Worth $60.6 billion in
2012, the industry is expected to grow to an estimated global
market of $92 billion by 2024.

Of the total fragrance industry market share, household and personal care contributed the most to
market share. And as developing countries such as India, China and Africa acquire more disposable
income, the desire for luxury goods such as fragrances and perfume becomes more necessary.

Starting a profitable perfume business is within anyone’s grasp, and thanks to modern-day innovations,
is relatively easy to create. Using the Fragrasol Formula, a tried and tested method, this easy three
step process gives new perfumers a stable and simple way of crafting desirable perfumes.

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 The Fragrasol Formula
How to make Perfume in 3 Simple Steps

The Fragrasol Formula is an internationally recognised formula for creating perfume. Using Fragrasol
Perfume solvents as the alcohol base, this cosmetic grade, 99.9% pure ethanol is the ultimate perfumer’s
alcohol. With no impurities, this solvent is manufactured and supplied according to the highest standards
and needs of the perfume industry. Combined with the remaining instructions of the Fragrasol Formula,
your perfect perfume scent is only a few steps away!

The below guide is based on synthetic ingredients, using the simplest steps to creating perfume.

1 Step 1 | Gather Your Materials

What you’ll need:

1. Fragrasol Perfume Solvent | Perfumers Alcohol
2. Synthetic Scent Solution | Perfume Oil or Compound
3. Glass Mixing Beaker or Fluoride Plastic bottles
4. Measuring Jug or Beaker

2 Step 2 | Measure and Mix

1. Now we’re ready to mix our scent and alcohol solvent! Make sure you have measured
out the correct quantities of perfume oils to perfumer’s alcohol. Below is a common
formula that will guide you to the perfect perfume/alcohol ratio.

Desired amount of perfume Quantities

500ml Perfume 100ml Perfume Oil to 400ml Fragrasol

1 litre Perfume 200ml Perfume Oil to 800ml Fragrasol

2.5 litres Perfume 500ml Perfume Oil to 2 litres Fragrasol

2. Mix your perfume oils with your Fragrasol Perfumer’s Alcohol in a glass beaker or
fluoride plastic bottles. Shake vigorously for 30 seconds or more.

3 Step 3 | Maturation

1. Now that you have the perfume scent and oils mixed, it’s time for the toughest part-waiting.
The scented oils and the perfumer’s alcohol need time to bind and mix, so set aside at least
30 days for the process of ageing and maturation to occur
2. Pack your perfume, still contained in a glass beaker or fluoride bottles, in a dark, cool space
where it will not be disturbed at all
3. After 30 days, or longer if you can wait, re-test your perfume by smelling it. If it needs
additional notes or tweaks, now is the time to add any new scents.
4. If your perfume smells like you wanted, simply decant into perfume bottles and getting ready
to spray or sell!

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Supplier List
We’ve put together a Supplier list of all suppliers who provide quality perfuming products. These
suppliers have a range of products, tools and advice so feel free to get in touch and ask a few
questions!

1. Perfumer’s Alcohol Supplier Enterprise Ethanol

3. Perfume Synthetic Oils Supplier Scent lab
4. Perfume Bottles and Sprayers Bonpak
5. Fluoride Bottles Scent lab
6. Glass Beakers and Mixers Bonpak

Come visit us at
www.enterpriseethanol.co.za/fragrasol-south-africa

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 Fragrasol Perfumer’s Alcohol | Enterprise Ethanol

Fragrasol is Enterprise Ethanol’s in-house range of perfumer’s alcohol. Offering 3 types of Perfumer’s
alcohol, consumers can be assured that the alcohol solvent to perfumes is 99,9% pure and tested
accordingly.

Fragrasol 901 | Basic Perfume Solvent

Our Fragrasol 901 is designed for basic perfumery application. This denatured ethanol product is an
over the counter answer to those who do not have a licence to purchase pure ethanol

• Basic Perfume Solvent Formula

• Fully Denatured Spirit
• No Rebate License Required

Applications

• Basic perfumery
• Fragrance base
• Room diffusers

Find out more

Fragrasol 955 | Standard Perfume Solvent

Our Fragrasol 955 product caters to the commercial sector, offering a unique fully denatured product
that still maintains a 99.9% alcohol purity, ensuring quality application

• Standard Perfume Solvent Formula

• Fully Denatured Spirit
• No Rebate License Required

Applications:

• Commercial perfumery
• Fragrance base

Find out more

15
Fragrasol 1020 | Advanced Perfume Solvent

Our Fragrasol 1020 product is an advanced formula based on 99.9% pure alcohol. This fully denatured
product contains key ingredients that makes it an ideal perfume solvent base

• Advanced Perfume Solvent Formula

• Fully Denatured Spirit
• No Rebate License Required

Applications:

• Advanced commercial perfumery

• Fragrance base

Find out more

Enterprise Ethanol also offers advice around appropriation, licensing and any perfuming questions you
may have. We are also open to the public, and consumers are welcome to stop by our retail shop to view
the products.

Website: www.enterpriseethanol.co.za
Address: 8 Avalon Road, Westlake View, Modderfontein
Email: [email protected]
Facebook: www.facebook.com/EnterpriseEthanol

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 Perfume Packaging | Bonpak

Bonpak is South Africa’s leading supplier of glass and plastic containers, with a special focus on perfume
bottles. Bonpak’s competitive pricing and flexibility in order quantities, means the smaller bottlers can
compete in any market whilst offering first-time entries and home industries a chance to grow their
business without having to invest in large quantities of containers. The wide range of sizes and shapes
from both local and imported manufacturers starts with a 5ml dropper bottle to a 4.5Lt (one gallon) jar.
Closures are available of all the jars and bottles supplied, offering a one stop shop for customers.

Bonpak offer a range of perfuming bottles, containers, lids and corks- below are some of our favourites:

• Perfume Pen Sprayers

• Perfume bottles
• Credit Card Sprayers
• Roll On
• Glass Vials

Helpful, open to the public- and with no minimum orders, Bonpak offers a full retail store with collection
capacity, or nationwide delivery.

Website: www.bonpak.co.za
Address: 8 Avalon Road, Westlake View, Modderfontein
Email: [email protected]
Facebook: www.facebook.com/BonpakSA

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 Synthetic Perfume Scents | Scent lab

Scent Lab is the leading supplier of fine fragrance oils. Offering more than just quality perfume oil – they
offer advice, formulations and so much more. Defined by Quality, supported by affordability, Scent lab is
the preferred perfume supplier.

Offering pre-packaged scents, inspired by the worlds most iconic fine fragrances, you can expect to
discover scents such as Armani Si, Coty, and Elizabeth Arden Red Door. Alternatively, chat to the teams
to discover how to create your own signature scent!

Website: www.scentlab.co.za
Address: 8 Avalon Road, Westlake View, Modderfontein
Email: [email protected]

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Carefully crafted and produced by
Qwerty Digital | Performance Consultants

Digital with Intent

www.qwertydigital..co.za
[email protected]

Resources and References

en.wikipedia.org www.madehow.com

www.bustle.com www.wysinfo.com

www.statista.com www.aplus.com

www.slate.com www.scentbird.com

www.alphaaromatics.com www.fragrancesoftheworld.com

www.perfume.com

Get in touch today!

087 135 0927
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