1 Scope constructed as to prevent fraying out during the

This Section describes a method of measuring the test. The breaking force ig then measured with
breaking strength of stitched seams in shoe the direction of pull perpendicular to the geam
upper and lining materials. The test is intended to and expressed as force per unit length of geam.
be used to evaluate seams either cut from shoes The type of breakdown that occurs is also
or made up to simulate actuaJor proposed recorded.
constructions for shoes. The construction of the
seam is not, therefore, specified precisely but it 5 Test piece preparation
should be stated when reporting the test result. 5.1 Specially prepared test pieces. From the
upper or lining material (or both) cut sufficient
2 References squares with 50 mm sides to produce three
This Section refers to the following standards seamed test pieces for each direction of test.
publication: Mark the direction of the backbone, warp threads
or machine run clearly on each square.
BS 1903, Glossary of terms used by the light
clothing industry. NOTE The number of squares per test piece and
their type varies according to the upper
3 Definitions construction at the seam. For example, the test
piece may consist of two pieces of the same
For the purposes of this Section of BS 5131, the
upper material stitched together, or two pieces of
following definitions apply.
different upper materials. or it may include one or
more lining materials and perhaps also reinforcing
3.1 lapped seam tapes.
a seam in which the edge of one section overlaps The number of directions of tost also varies
the edge of the other by a small amount (the according to the upper construction. Separate
underlay allowance) with the reverse side of the tests in the "along" and "across" directions may
top section in contact with the face of the lower bo sufficient, but for some purposes test pieces
section and the stitching through the underlay may need to be prepared with "along" and
allowance (see Figure 5.13/1) "across" squares combined, or with squares cut
on the bias. Stitch the squares together to
produce three test seams for each direction of
NOTE This seam differs somewhat from a lapped
seam as used in the garment industry and as test, The types of seam construction and the
described in BS 1903. choice of thread, needle size and type and stitch
density are normally selected to simulate the
shoemaking process under examination. The
3.2 closed seam following examples are a guide to the selection of
a seam made by placing the face sides of the two these features when a specific process is not
sections in contact, with the edges aligned, see being simulated.
Figure 5.13/2(a), stitching through them close to Uppers 1.2 mm to 1.8 mm thick (with or without a
the aligned edges and then folding the two lining)
sections back so that their faces are in the same
plane [see Figure 5.13/2] Size 14 needle with a continuous filament
polyamide or polyester thread or a polyester core
spun thread having a metric ticket number of 50
3.3 seam allowance or 60; a round point or narrow wedge needle for
the distance from the edge of the section to the leathers, round point, round triangular tipped or
first functional row of stitching. In a closed seam, extra narrow wedge for coated and uncoated
the seam allowance for the two sections is the fabrics and a round point needle on meshes; 6
same, but in a lapped seam they may differ stitches per centimetre; either a lapped or closed
seam; seam allowance 2 mm for leather, 2 mm for
3.4 underlay allowance polyvinylchloride coated fabric, 3 mm for most
polyurethane coated fabrics (although 2 mm may
the amount by which the lower section of a be sufficient for some stronger polyurethane
lapped seam is overlapped by the top section coated materials); underlay allowance 9 mm.

4 Principle
Test pieces containing a stitched seam are
prepared with the ends of the seam so
Size 12 or size 14 needle with a continuous Set the jaws of the tensile machine to 30 mm
filament polyamide or polyester thread or a apart
polyester core spun thread having a metric ticket
number of 60 or 75; needle point as for uppers; 6 and clamp the 25 mm wide central test strip
to 7 stitches per centimetre; seam allowance as for between them so that the seam is 15 mm from
uppers. each jaw and is parallel to the jaw edges. The 12
When the seam has been made, trim it to mm wide edge strips are not clamped but are
provide a 25 mm test width with two 12.5 mm allowed to hang free (see Figure 5.13/5). Clamp
edge pieces by cutting down to within 3 mm of test pieces cut from shoes in the game way with
the stitch line (see Figure 5.13/3). Considerable
care is required when cutting near to the seam, the same jaw separation, even if they are smaller
and a small sharp hand knife is probably the best than the preferred size,
tool to use. Operate the machine and record
a) the force in newtons, at which failure
5.2 Test pieces cut from shoes. Where possible, occurs (breaking force);
cut two rectangular test pieces of the dimensions
b) the type, or types, of failure.
shown in Figure 5.13/4, preferably from different
shoes. The central part of the seam (i.e. Test the duplicate test pieces in the same way;
excluding the parts in the two edge also the test pieces corresponding to the other
pieces) shall be approximately mid-way between dheetions of test.
the two ends of the test piece and, if curved, 9 Calculation and expression of results
approximately parallel to these ends, as judged For each test piece calculate its seam strength
by eye.
by dividing the breaking force by the test piece
If the shoe upper is too small for this size of test
piece, the width of the central portion between width (normally 25 mm) and express the result
the cuts may be reduced, but not to below 10 as newtons per millimetre (N/mm). Calculate the
mm. The edge pieces shall not be reduced in arithmetic average of the seam strengths for all
width. test pieces (usually three) corresponding to one
6 Apparatus direction of test.
6.1 Conditioning cabinet or room capable of
maintaining an atmosphere of 20 ± 2 oc and 65 ± 10 Test report
2 % relative humidity. Include the following items in the test report: a)
6.2 Tensile testing machine with a range of 0 the average seam strength for each direction
to 2 000 N and a rate of traverse of 100 ± 20 of test expressed in accordance with clause 9;
mm/min. The jaws shall be at least 30 mm wide. b) the type or types of failure;
6.3 If seams are to be prepared specially (see 5.1) c) full details of the seam construction
a suitable sewing machine and accessories such including seam type, material type and
as needles will be required. thickness used, thread type and size,
7 Conditioning needle type and size, stitches per
Condition the prepared test pieces for at least 48 centimetre, seam allowance and underlay
h in an atmosphere at 20 ± 2 oc and 65 2 % allowance;
d) the width of the centre part of the test
relative humidity and carry out the tests in this
pieces, if it is not 25 mm;
standard atmosphere,
e) reference to the method of test,
8 Procedure
i.e. BS 5131-5.13;
Measure the width of the centre part of each
f) the date of testing.
test piece, if this is not 25 mm.