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Unit 2 - Design Principles and Methods
Unit 2 - Design Principles and Methods
TYPES OF DESIGN
Designs can be broadly classified into two types
1. Structural Design: - Structural designs are made by joining together lines,
forms, etc together. It is a simple design suitable for its purpose
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ELEMENTS OF DESIGN
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ii. Curved Lines –Ccurved lines are graceful and gives a feminine effect.
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2. Shape: - A shape is defined as a two-dimensional area that stands out from the
space. All objects are composed of shapes. Basic shapes are ggeometric shape,
organic shape and inorganic shape.
Garment design makes use of different types of shapes,
which can be structural or decorative. Structural shapes are part of the garment
structure and include various garment components such as sleeves, collars,
pockets, necklines, etc. Decorative shapes are the external trims,
embellishments, embroidery, etc. which enhance the appearance of the garment.
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Basic Hues
ii. Value: - Value of a colour means the lightness and darkness of a hue. The
lightest or highest value is white and the darkest or the lowest value is
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black. Lightest values of a colour are also called ‘tints’. By adding white to
the colour one obtains ‘tints’ which are lighter than the normal value.
‘Shades’ are darker than the normal value. By adding black to the normal
colour one gets ‘shades’ which are below the normal value. Value scale is
a graded scale of tints and shades, ranging from white at the top to black
at the bottom.
Intensity or Chroma
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ii. Secondary Colours: - When two primary colours are mixed in equal
proportion a secondary colour is obtained.
Yellow + Blue = Green
Blue + Red = Violet
Red + Yellow = Orange
iii. Intermediate colours: - If a primary colour is combined with an adjacent
secondary colour the resultant colour is called intermediate colour.
Yellow + Green = Yellow – Green
Green + Blue = Blue – Green
Blue + Violet = Blue – Violet
Violet + Red = Red – Violet
Red + Orange = Red – Orange
Orange + Yellow = Yellow – Orange
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iv. Neutral Colours: - The Black, White and Grey are neutral colours. They
are used in backgrounds.
v. Warm and Cool Colours: The colour wheel can be divided into warm
and cool sides. The colours on the red side of the wheel are said to be
warm colours. Warm colours are red, orange, and yellow. Orange is the
warmest colour. Colours on the side of green are cool colours. Blue is
the coolest colour.
Colour Schemes
Colour schemes or colour harmonies mean the different combinations
of colours in a design in a pleasing way. Colour schemes which are produced
through the aid of a prang colour wheel are of three types:
i. Related Colour Schemes: - They are produced by combining colours that lie
near to each other on the prang colour wheel.
E.g. - Monochromatic and Analogous Colour Scheme.
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d. Triad Colour Scheme: - is one which combines any three colours that
form an equilateral triangle on the colour wheel. There are four such
combinations.
i. Primary triad → Yellow, Blue & Red
ii. Secondary triad → Green, Violet & Orange
iii. Intermediate triad I → Yellow–Orange, Red–Violet & Blue–
Green
iv. Intermediate triad II → Yellow – Green, Red – Orange & Blue –
Violet.
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5. Texture: -Texture refers to as a material feels when the fingertips are run
lightly along its surface. Soft, shiny, dull, rough, crisp, smooth, sheer is some
of the textures. Shiny and glossy texture reflects light and thus increases the
apparent size of the wearer. Dull fabrics absorb light and thus tend to
decrease the size of the wearer.
Types of Texture:
Physical or tactile texture: Physical texture is what we feel when we run the
hand gently over the surface of a fabric or give the fabric a gentle squeeze.
Visual texture:
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Texture in Garments
6. Space: - Space is what holds the design and its parts in place. Space has no
mass of its own. Space may be positive and negative.
Positive Spaces: Positive space is the space which is filled by the
design elements.
Negative Spaces: It is the empty space or the background
PRINCIPLES OF DESIGN
Design principles should be regarded as guides rather
than rigid rules. These principles are not actually formulae for creating beauty, but
they help one to judge, the clothing selected is artistically good or bad. The major
principles of design are:
1. Balance
2. Proportion
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3. Rhythm
4. Emphasis
5. Harmony
1. BALANCE
Balance is the principle of design that produces a feeling
of rest and equilibrium. It is attained by groping lines, shapes or colours
around a central point in such a way that the general effect has sense of
equilibrium. Balance is of two types.
Types of Balance
There are two types of balances: -
i. Formal balance (Symmetrical balance): - It is also known as symmetrical
balance. Here objects of equal interests and weight or identical objects are
placed on either side of the imaginary center.
ii. Informal balance (Asymmetrical balance):- Here objects are placed not in
equal distance, but placed such that they appear to be in equilibrium. Lighter or
smaller objects are placed closer to the central point, while heavier and bigger
objects are placed further away.
2. PROPORTION
The principle of proportion, also known as the ‘law of relationships. It
refers to how an object, idea or colour is related to other with regard to size,
numbers, quantity etc.
The Greek oblong’ is considered as most appropriate ratio of space
divisions and it is also called as “the golden oblong”. It is recognized standard
for space relationship. This oblong always uses the ratio of 2: 3 or 3: 5 in case
of flat surfaces. For solids it is 5 : 7 : 11.
3. RHYTHM
Rhythm as an art principle is defined as easy, connected path along
which the eye follows a regular arrangement of motifs. Rhythm can be
achieved in the following ways.
i. Rhythm by Repetition: - Rhythm is produced when a line, shape or colour
is repeated at regular intervals.
E.g.: A series of buttons.
ii. Rhythm by Gradation: - Gradation means a sequence or regular
progression of objects in a series.
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4. EMPHASIS
Emphasis means a center of interest should be related to the total
structure of the garment. This may be a dominating object, dominating colour
or dominating idea in a design. A centre of interest is created by arranging
different elements of design in a special way. The emphasis can be created
through,
a. use of special lines,
b. use of different shapes in a design,
c. leaving sufficient background space around the object,
d. use of contrasting colours,
e. grouping of objects,
f. use of decorations in a design,
g. Use of lights and shades.
5. HARMONY
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INTRODUCTION
In fashion designing a wide list of terms are used.
Students aiming to be in the field of fashion should have a clear idea about the
various terms that are prevailing in the industry. Besides familiarity we should be
able to distinguish the difference within the terms.
FASHION TERMS
The following are the most important terms that are
greatly used in the fashion industry: -
1. Style: -
- Style is the distinguishable characteristic of a garment.
- It is a particular look, shape or type of apparel.
- If consumers support a style, it becomes fashion.
- It is always constant whether it is currently accepted or not.
- The style may have a characteristic cut, silhouette, fabric, colour palette,
surface embellishment, pattern-making, garment construction or finishing
techniques.
- E.g. – Necklines, Scoop. V-neck, Boat neck, Bermuda, Pinafore
2. Trend: -
- A fashion trend refers to the movement of fashions in clothing follow.
- It is a popular style for practice, especially in clothing, foot wear, accessories,
make up, or furniture.
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- Garments are designed and produced with special design, fabric and fit to a
specific person.
- It is also called made-to-order apparel.
- Custom made clothing was produced mostly by women of the house prior to
the mass production at the factories. The garments were also stitched by
hand very meticulously.
8. Haute Couture: -
- In French, Haute couture refers to high fashion created by designers known
as ‘couturiers.
- Couture is unique and exclusive creations of fashion customized for individual
clients, since the design is never duplicated.
- The extremely high prices are due to design exclusivity, high quality of fabric,
skilled labour used for surface design techniques, embroidery, drape,
craftsmanship, garment construction and quality of finish.
- Among the most reputed international couture labels are Chanel, Dior,
Versace and Valentino. India has several designers like Ritu Kumar, Tarun
Tahiliani, Rohit Bal, Suneet Verma, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Arora,
Manish Malhotra and others in this genre.
9. Prêt a Porter: -
- (French) refers to ready to wear (RTW) clothing derived from the couture
collection.
- It is factory made-clothing, manufactured with high quality standards, at more
affordable prices in multiple sizes in a wider range of colour options.
- Standard patterns, factory equipment, and faster construction techniques are
used for ‘prêt-a-porter’ to keep costs low
- This term is widely used now as the fashion retail sector.
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FASHION CYCLE
Fashion always remains in motion. The changes in fashion
depend on economic, social, and psychological factors. Fashions change with same
series of events. The acceptance and rejection of a particular style is indicated
through the fashion cycle. It is usually depicted as a bell-shaped curve. The five
stages of a fashion cycle are:
― Introduction
― Rise in popularity
― Peak of popularity
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― Decline in popularity
― Rejection
Stage1. Introduction Stage
It is the introduction of a style.
A fashion is born when it’s worn for the first time. For example, models
and celebrities’ wear.
The introduced style has usually limited acceptance by consumers.
Higher prices of products and limited production.
Stage2. Rise in Acceptance / Growth Stage
When the style gets wider acceptance, the demand rises.
Fashion followers pick up the trend thus increasing the appeal and
popularity of the style.
Adaptation and changes are done in style at this stage.
Price is affordable by using less expensive fabrics and styles.
Mass production is carried out.
Stage3. Peak in Popularity / Maturity Stage
This stage represents the peak of popularity.
The style is widely worn in society.
Majority of consumers demand and accept variations of the style with
different price level.
Introducing new colour, texture or details in the existing style may keep
that style alive for longer period.
Lengths at this stage determines if fashion becomes a classic.
Price is affordable and style is produced in large quantities.
Stage4. Decline in Popularity / Decline Stage
This stage indicates the decline in popularity.
The style has over-exposed or become monotonous.
Demand for the fashion decreases and the style is over saturated.
Consumers won’t pay high price for the fashion
Decrease in demand leads to start offering discounts and reduced price.
Stage5. Rejection / Obsolescence
The style is considered to be outdated and is therefore rejected.
Consumers are no longer interested.
Retailers do not restock products
Production of style has stopped by manufacturers.
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Fashion Cycle
Length of cycles: - The life of a fashion can seems quite short. This period may
range from several months to several years. Some fashions take a short time to
reach the peak in popularity, others take longer; some decline slowly, others quickly.
A classic style is one originally introduced as a fashion item but because of its
superior design features and broad appeal, stays popular over a long period of
time. E.g., true classics include Levis jeans, T-shirts, pleated skirts, blazers, etc.
A fad style will decline popularity shortly due its extreme design. E.g., extreme
silhouettes, strong colours, bright bold prints, exaggerated accessories are typical
examples of fad.
A Standard style called long-wave phenomenon, are reflective of styles that
start gradually increase popularity and sustain for a longer period of time and
then their popularity eventually decreases.
2. Trickle-up theory:
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- Madrid: - First, Madrid Fashion Week is the most prestigious fashion event in
Spain.
The top fashion cities of India: - India is a country with an ancient clothing design
tradition, yet an emerging fashion industry.
- Delhi: - Fashion Capital of India. Up to six fashion weeks are conducted in
every year. More than 50 leading fashion designers are from this city. Delhi is
now 24th in the fashion capital of world.
- Kolkata: - The everyday style of Kolkata includes creative fix of Indian
fabrics and prints mixed with western styles. With many top designers
setting up their shop in Kolkata such as the celeb-famous Sabyasachi and
Anamika Khanna, it has also become a go-to city for designer wedding
shopping. Kolkata is also famous for the very affordable garments available
owing to its proximity to all the major ports around the globe.
- Mumbai: - Mumbai is the famous fashion center of middle fashion zone of
India. Bollywood, one of the world's biggest film industries, heavily influences
the city's fashion. Some of the most famous international fashion brands
and labels can be easily spotted in Mumbai along with a wide range of local
markets. ‘Lakme Fashion Week’ is the main attraction of fashion lovers of
India.
- Bangalore: - This city is the main center of south fashion zone of India.’
Bangalore Fashion Week is the Famous fashion show. Eexperimenting with
fashion and mixing Indian prints such as Rajasthani block prints, Kalamkari
and Ikkat with western styles such as crop tops and skirts, are common
trend.
- Hyderabad: -. Inspired by the grand Mughal empire that once ruled it,
Hyderabad's fashion is flamboyant and hard to miss. Hyderabad is a very
designer-friendly city leading to dozens of famous designers setting up shop
here.
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wrong side of the fabric, in a stretching state. When tension is released after
stitching, it makes gathers.
d. Gathering with Gathering Foot: - Using a gathering foot is an easy and
time-saving way to gather fabric automatically.
Gathers
2. Shirring: - Shirring is the method of gathering along multiple parallel rows of
straight stitching. At least 3 stitches are necessary to create shirring. The stitches
can be done with elastic threads. The elastic thread are used in the bobbin to
create an elasticated row of stitching. Shirring is far more comfortable than
regular elastic as it is soft and flexible.
Shirring
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3. Pleats: - Pleating involves folding fabric into different shapes creating differences
in the volume and texture of the fabric. Pleats have been used in textiles and
fashion for ever. But the style and techniques of pleats have changed a lot with
technological innovations. Pleats are a great fabric manipulation technique,
adding interesting details to a garment. They create freedom of movement in
clothes, and texture to any fabric. There are a lot of ways to create pleats with
fabrics. The four common methods to create pleats in fabrics are:
a. Stitching: - These types of pleats are made by stitching the top part of the
pleats, then pressing the rest of the length.
b. Heat-pressing fabric: - Heat pressed type of pleats uses a mechanical force
to pleat the fabric, and heat to fix them. For a permanent effect, only
polyester can be used. The effect doesn’t last on natural fibers.
c. Using chemicals: - Chemicals can be used to set pleats in natural fibers.
Depending on the effect needed, different chemicals are applied on fabrics,
as well as heat and sometimes pressure. Fabrics are chemically pleated by
meters, not after being cut or sewn. It makes these fabrics harder to cut and
sew
d. Handmade: - Handmade pleats are made by expert pleaters only, this is quite
technical to achieve.
Types of Pleats
a. Side pleats: - These are also known as knife pleats. The knife pleat is the
basic pleat used in sewing. Normally the under pleat will be half that of the
over pleat.
b. Box pleats: -These combine two approaches to create the box pleat. There
is a left-hand flat pleat followed by a right-hand flat pleat which
together forms box effect. Inverted box pleats have the "box" on the inside
rather than the outside.
c. Accordion pleat: - It looks like an accordion because it is formed by two
pleats which both have the same length. It's a form of tight pleating which
allows the garment to expand its shape when moving.
d. Crystal Pleat: - Crystal pleating is a very small accordion pleat with both
sides of the pleat measuring about 2 to 3mm.
e. Sunray Pleats: - A Sunray pleat is a graduated accordion pleat that is
pleated in a semi-circle. The pleat starts off very small at the hip and gets
bigger closer to the hem.
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f. Fancy Pleats: - With new technologies a wide rage of fancy pleats are used
in designing.
4. Tucks: - Tucks are kind of like pleats. The difference is that tucks are stitched at
their base so that the folds remain secured. The volume needed is twice the size
of the final tuck. Lightweight fabrics are best for sewing tucks. Different Types of
Tucks are:
a. Pin tuck: - A pin tuck is a very narrow tuck made at regular intervals, mostly
parallel to each other. They form a regular decorating element in kids’ dresses
and nightdresses. Tucks can be used pretty anywhere but it is on bodices that
you see often.
b. Spaced Tucks: -These are tucks which have a width of 1/4 inch from the fabric
folded edge; they are also spaced apart.
c. Cross Tucks: - Cross tucks are made by folding and stitching both horizontally
and vertically, creating a cross in the middle.
d. Corded Tucks: -These are tucks with yarns, cords or embroidery thread added
to the edge of the tucks.
e. Shell Tucks: - For making shell tucks, first make spaced tucks, make it flat and
stich in the middle parts which creates a scalloped look in the tuck. This can be
easily made by fashion maker machines.
f. Twisted Tucks / Wavy Tucks: - These are simple tucks sewn across the fabric
and then stitched down in a back and forth manner making waves.
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Sl. Type of
Use Examples
No. Stitches
- Used to stitch the outlines or inner lines in a
design
- Running stitches can be used to fill design
as in "Kantha embroidery”
- Beads and sequences can be included in Running Stitch
Outline-
these types of stitches. Back Stitch
1 Stitches
- Looping or whipping can be done for more Stem Stitch
decoration.
- Designs with narrow lines and emphasising
of a filled design can be done with these
stitches.
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b. Smocking: - This is done by gathering and embroidering over the gathers. This
can be worked only over a plain cloth.
At first gathers are made by hand using running stitch.
Then work desired stitch over the gathered fabric. This is used to decorate
waistline, sleeve, neckline, yoke and any other part of the garment. This stitch
looks attractive and is liked by many. The amount of material required for
smoking is two to three times the width of the finished article. Stitches used are:
- Stem Stitch
- Cable Stitch
- Herring bone stitch
- Knot Stitch
c. Cording: - Cord embroidery is the process of sewing fancy yarn, tapes or
ribbons to fabric. The cording embroidery has a three-dimensional.
Cording embroidery is a specialist embroidery technique, which let us to sew
on materials, patterns made of ribbons, beads, cords or decorative chains (e.g.
metal or plastic chains). Different names are used for this work depending upon
the type and materials used such as ‘couching’ ‘ribbon embroidery’ ‘bead
embroidery’ etc.
With the use of embroidery machines for decorating
materials, the work has become extremely simple and fast. Cording
embroidery allows us to sew on different materials decorative elements such
as:
˗ Tapes,
˗ Beads,
˗ Decorative chains
˗ Cords.
d. Kamal Work: - “Kamal Kadai” is an Indian embroidery style native to the state of
Andhra Pradesh. Kamal work primarily uses needle weaving to stitch beautiful
flowers. This beautiful embroidery gives a 3D effect to the designs.
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uses different coloured threads. The basic stitch used is running stitch along
with satin stitch and chain stitch.
‘Kanthas’ can be beautifully used as quilts. It was
presented to the bride and groom as well as used to wrap valuables and gifts.
Kantha worked is used to decorate bags, book cover, etc. Nowadays, Kantha
embroidery is done on single layer or white or coloured fabric base using
contemporary motifs. The product range include stoles, dupattas, saris and suit
materials.
INTRODUCTION
DYEING
b. Skein Dyeing: - Yarns are dyed in skeins or packages. Cotton and linen are
generally dyeing at the yarn stage. Skeins of yarns are hung on rods. Then that
are placed in a dye bath. These roads are rotated to circulate the skeins through
the dye bath. In package dyeing the spools of yarns are arranged in perforated
roads and then immersed in a tank. The dye is forced through these to get
colour. Yarn dyeing is less costly than raw stock dyeing.
c. Fabric Dyeing: - The finished fabric passes through a dye bath and absorbs the
dye stuff from the solution. Woven or knitted fabric can be dyed in batches in
fabric dyeing. Colouring can be done according to the trends and the wastage is
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minimized in this process. Beck dyeing, pad dyeing, jet dyeing are examples of
fabric dyeing methods.
PRINTING
a. Block Printing: - This is one of the oldest and simplest methods of applying
designs on the fabric. In this method wooden or metal blocks with carved
design are used. The material to be printed is spread on a padded table. The
designed block is dipped in the dye paste is stamped on the material and
allowed to dry. The process is repeated over the entire fabric surface which is
to be printed.
c. Stencil Printing: - Stencils are made by cutting the design in cardboard, thin
fiber sheet, wood or metal. Place the fabric on a padded table. The stencil is
laid on the fabric at required place. Dip the sponge on the dye paste and dab
on the stencil through open spaces.
d. Screen Printing: - Screen printing is an easy and widely used method for
printing. Screen printing is used for large and finer patterns. It is a slow process
but can be effectively used on knitted fabric to produce a large number of
designs. It is also known as silk screen printing because the screens were
made of fine, strong silk threads. Today they are also made of nylon, polyester
or metal wires.
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screen is made by blocking the unwanted areas with a light sensitive chemical
substance). The dye paste is brushed or poured on the screen. Then dye is
forced through its unblocked areas, onto the fabric with a rubber edged
squeegee. Based on the type of screen used it may be – flat screen printing or
rotary screen printing.
e. Digital Printing: - This is the latest printing technology and is improving day by
day. Digital designs and printing is more popular nowadays. This printing allows
to achieve unlimited colour options and design variations.
f. Tie & Dye: - This is a form of resist dyeing. It is simple method and yet many
fascinating designs are produced in the fabric. ‘Bandani’ saris of Gujarat and
Rajasthan are made by this method.
The parts of the fabric or the yarn which are to resist the
dye are tied with strings or narrow strips of cloth according to the design.
Marbling, knotting, spirals, stripes, co-cantered circles are some of the designs
produced by tying the thread differently. The strings or the stripes are waxed to
increase the resistance and so get better results. Soak the prepared fabric into
the dye bath. Rinse the cloth under and allow to dry. Cut the strings from cloth
or garment.
g. Batik: - Batik is a resist printing process for making beautiful designs on fabric.
Wax is used to prevent dye from penetrating the cloth, leaving blank areas in
the dyed fabric. First, the wax is applied the outline of the pattern. The cloth is
then immersed in the dye bath. The area of the cloth where the wax is applied
will remain white. The unwanted portion absorbs colour which appear in a
design form. This art of resist printing very popular in Indonesia.
FABRIC PAINTING
a) Outlining: - Design outline is drawn with narrow brush, neatly. Dots and lines
can be also used for outlining to get an embroidered look.
b) Filling: - In this method, the figure or shape is filled with either a colour, or
colours or with a pattern suitable for the design like dots or lines.
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e) Mural: - This is very popular today. To give the garments a rich look variety
mural designs and colours are given.
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Technical Drawing
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Drawing Silhouettes
Flats serve the purpose to clearly show the design
elements therefore keep the drawing relatively simple. The classic approach is to
use just black ink lines.
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1. Neck lines
2. Collars
3. Sleeves and cuffs
4. Skirts
5. Pants
6. Dresses
7. Plackets
8. Pockets
9. Ruffles
10. Flounces
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INTRODUCTION
1. Drafting
2. Draping
Drafting: -
Drafting Method: -
3 Useful for personal use and for 2-dimensional method, makes it difficult to
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Body Measurements:
3. Bust/Pivot Point : 9”
Steps of Construction:
Front:
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Mark the pivot point 14 from 4, 4-14 = 9” such that 14-9 is ½ of distance between
two pivot points (3.5”)
Darts:
Side Dart: Mark point 11 by going down 4.5” from point 7 for side dart,
Armhole Dart: Mark point 12 at the deepest point of armhole for armhole dart,
Dart width= ¼ “ both sides, Dart length: 1” away From Pivot point 14
BACK:
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Mark the pivot point 14 from 4, 4-14 = 9” such that 14-9 is ½ of distance between
two pivot points (3.5”)
Measurements:
Sleeve bottom : 9”
Steps of Construction:
Join 0-4
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Measurements:
Sleeve bottom : 9”
Steps of Construction:
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Draping: -
2 Modify the unattractive aspects This process requires the use of dress
forms, in various sizes.
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Types of Patterns:
4. Personal Patterns: - These are exclusive pattern sets created for making
custom fitted garments for any particular person.
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Pattern Information:
The information contained in the production pattern fall into the following categories:
a) Text in formation
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1. Seam Allowance
3. Cutting Line
4. Stitching line
5. Arrows
6. Bust Point
8. Darts
12. Notches
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