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(@olya.

usolya)
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Hello! I’m glad that you’ve chosen


this crochet pattern ☺

My name is Olya Usoltseva and I


create toys, which are adored by
children, and which you like
crocheting. In every toy, there is
some part of my heart and soul.

I make up every piece and make


very detailed descriptions with
photos and video to give you an
opportunity to create a toy like mine
and enjoy the process.

Have a great mood and enjoy the process!

Links (social media):

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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THE CROCHET PATTERN IS COPYRIGHT PROTECTED AND IS THE SOLE PROPERTY


OF OLGA USOLTSEVA.

IT IS FORBIDEN:

✓ TO DISTRIBUTE, TRANSMIT TO THIRD PARTIES;

✓ TO COPY (FULLY OR PARTIALLY);

✓ TO BE MADE PUBLICLY AVAILABLE;

✓ TO MAKE VIDEOS USING MATERIALS (FULLY OR PARTIALLY) FROM THIS TUTORIAL;

✓ TO RESELL AND EXCHANGE THE CROCHET PATTERN.

ONE PERSON PURCHASES ONE CROCHET PATTERN IN USE.

YOU ARE WELCOME TO SELL ANY ITEMS YOU MAKE FROM THIS

PATTERN, PROVIDED THEY ARE MADE BY YOU AND NOT COMMERCIALLY

OR MASS PRODUCED.

I WILL BE GLAD IF YOU SPECIFY MY NAME WHILE PUBLISHING THE PHOTO

OF A READY TOY:

«crochet pattern by @olya.usolya»

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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click on the text and you will be redirected to appropriate page


(clickable not in all applications)

LINKS TO THE VIDEOS ......................................................... 5

MATERIALS & SUPPLIES........................................................ 7

ABBREVIATIONS ........................................................................ 8

LEGS .................................................................................................. 9

HEAD ............................................................................................... 11

BODY ............................................................................................. 13

TAIL ................................................................................................. 16

GILLS .............................................................................................. 18

EYES ............................................................................................... 21

ARRANGEMENT....................................................................... 23

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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This PDF file contains 6 videos. Click on the red icon to


watch the video. Be sure your device has access to the Internet
because the videos are on YouTube.

Links to the videos:

1. LEG.

2. START CROCHETING THE HEAD.

3. ATTACHING LEGS.

4. GILLLS.

5. EYE.

6. CREST.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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A toy can be made of different types of yarn. It is important to choose


the appropriate hook size.

YarnArt JEANS/ Himalaya Dolphin FINE


Alize Cotton Gold (360 yds./3.5 Oz.) (191 yds./3,5 Oz.)

Main yarn consumption < 1.8 Oz. Main yarn consumption ~ 0,5 skein
Hook for the body 2 mm Hook for the body 2,25 mm
Hook for the eyes 2 mm Hook for the eyes 2,75 mm
Height 7.9”/20 cm Height 10.2”/26 cm

YA Jeans HDF
36 03

Alize CG HDF
390 10

* Please, pay attention to the fact that every person has his/her own style
and crochet density. The size of the finished toy may vary from the size
indicated in the pattern.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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✓ thin plush yarn (191 yds./3,5 Oz.) (Himalaya Dolphin Fine, etc.):
- light pink (main yarn);
- crimson (additional yarn); *depending on your crocheting
✓ semi-cotton yarn (360 yds./3.5 Oz.) (YarnArt density, thread tension, crocheting
Jeans, Alize Cotton Gold, Gazzal Jeans, etc.): method (tick / mixed / cross ←
- black (eyes, eyebrows, smile); watch the video), you should
- white (eyes); correctly choose the hook size. I
- lilac (eyes); crochet in a mixed way (capture on
✓ hooks: top, then capture on bottom),
- 2,25 mm for the body; strong thread gauge/tension.
- 2,75 mm for the eyes;
*if you crochet a toy of semi-cotton yarn, then use the same hook and yarn as for
the body;
*if you crochet a toy of plush yarn, then use a hook 0,75-1 mm larger and use
semi-cotton yarn;
✓ sewing needle to sew body parts;
✓ stitch markers;
✓ pins with large head;
✓ scissors;
✓ fiber filling;
✓ love.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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*U.S. terminology

MR – magic ring;
CH – chain;
SS – slip stitch;
St – stitch;
SC – single crochet;
HDC – half double crochet;
INC – increase (work 2 stitches in the same St);
INC HDC – increase of half double crochet (work 2 HDC in the same St);
DEC – decrease (2SC together through the front loops);
(SC, INC)*6 (18) – repeat the combination in brackets 6 times, the
number in brackets is the total number of St in a round.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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First, we are going to crochet legs, as they are going to be attached in


the process of crocheting.
Do you know that if the magic
ring made of plush yarn
couldn’t be tightened, you can
use 2 CH instead it, working first

*main yarn 6 SC in the second chain from


the hook?
*crochet 4 details
*don’t stuff

1. in MR: 2 SC, (chain 4, (start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 3 SC), SC)*3,
SC (6);

2. 2 SC, SC between the fingers,


SC between the fingers, 2 SC (6);
3-6. 4 rounds 6 SC;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- work additional 2-4 SC to the side edge of the detail (when folding);
(see photo);

- work a CH, fold detail in half and crochet both sides together with 3 SC;

- fix and cut the thread.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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The head, body and tail are crocheted as one detail.

*main yarn
*stuff in process, DON’T stuff the tail

0. Chain 15;
- work in spiral (without a turning CH and SS) as in all amigurumi toys (oval-
shape detail);
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 13 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from
the hook, on the other side: 12 SC, INC (30);

2. INC, 12 SC, 3 INC, 12 SC, 2 INC (36);


3. INC, 13 SC, (INC, SC)*3, 12 SC, (INC, SC)*2 (42);
4. 2 SC, INC, 12 SC, (2 SC, INC)*3, 12 SC, (2 SC, INC)*2 (48);
5. 48 SC;
6. INC, 15 SC, (INC, 3 SC)*3, 12 SC, (INC, 3 SC)*2 (54);
7. 54 SC:
8. 2 SC, INC, 14 SC, (2 SC, INC, 2 SC)*3, 12 SC, (2 SC, INC, 2 SC)*2 (60);
9-16. 8 rounds 60 SC;
- in order increases and decreases in the head are above each other,
it is necessary to align the stitch marker, since it may shift a lot to the
right in the process of crocheting;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- if you crochet “straight SC” without shifting of stitch marker, then you do
NOT need to shift stitch marker;
- fold the detail in half along the start chain and shift the stitch marker to
the next SC after the fold line on the side (if required);

17. 4 SC, DEC, 12 SC, (4 SC, DEC)*3, 12 SC, (4 SC, DEC)*2 (54);
18. 54 SC;
19. 3 SC, DEC, 12 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*3, 12 SC, (3 SC, DEC)*2 (48);
20. 2 SC, DEC, 12 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*3, 12 SC, (2 SC, DEC)*2 (42);
- if required, align the stitch marker on the side;
21. SC, DEC, 12 SC, (SC, DEC)*3, 12 SC, (SC, DEC)*2 (36);
22. DEC, 12 SC, 3 DEC, 12 SC, 2 DEC (30);
- if required, align the stitch marker on the side;
23. DEC, 9 SC, 3 DEC, 9 SC, 2 DEC (24);
- don’t fasten off, continue crocheting the body;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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*stuff in process
24. (7 SC, INC)*3 (27);
25. (8 SC, INC)*3 (30);
- in Round 26 we are going to attach the legs;
- for accuracy of attachment mark 2 times 3 SC (place of legs attachment)
at a distance of 5 SC on the chest;
- if required, adjust (shift) the stitch marker in Round 26;
- please, be sure to check this area by markers because the beginning
of the round may shift differently!

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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3 SC 3 SC

5 SC

26. 3 SC, 3 SC with the leg, 5 SC, 3 SC with the leg, 16 SC (30);

27. (9 SC, INC)*3 (33);


28. (10 SC, INC)*3 (36);
29-33. 5 rounds 36 SC;
- in Round 34 we are going to attach the legs;
- for accuracy of attachment mark 2 times 3 SC (place of legs attachment)
at a distance of 7 SC on the tummy;
- if required, adjust (shift) the stitch marker in Round 34;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- please, be sure to check this area by markers because the beginning


of the round may shift differently!

7 SC

34. 3 SC, 3 SC with the leg, 7 SC, 3 SC with the leg, 20 SC (36);

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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35. (10 SC, DEC)*3 (33);


*so that the fiber filling
36. (9 SC, DEC)*3 (30); does not fall into the tail
- don’t fasten off, continue crocheting during active games and
the tail; washing, you can sew it
inside with a thread

*don’t stuff
- shift stitch marker in the next SC from the middle of the tummy (continue
working the Round to the middle of the tummy);

37. DEC, 12 SC, 2 INC, 12 SC, DEC (30);


38. DEC, 26 SC, DEC (28);
39. DEC, 11 SC, 2 INC, 11 SC, DEC (28);
40. DEC, 24 SC, DEC (26);
41. DEC, 10 SC, 2 INC, 10 SC, DEC (26);
42. DEC, 22 SC, DEC (24);

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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43. DEC, 9 SC, 2 INC, 9 SC, DEC (24);


44. DEC, 20 SC, DEC (22);
45. DEC, 8 SC, 2 INC, 8 SC, DEC (22);
46. DEC, 18 SC, DEC (20);
47. DEC, 7 SC, 2 INC, 7 SC, DEC (20);
48. DEC, 16 SC, DEC (18);
49. DEC, 6 SC, 2 INC, 6 SC, DEC (18);
50. DEC, 14 SC, DEC (16);
51. DEC, 5 SC, 2 INC, 5 SC, DEC (16);
52. DEC, 12 SC, DEC (14);
53. DEC, 4 SC, 2 INC, 4 SC, DEC (14);
54. DEC, 10 SC, DEC (12);
55. DEC, 3 SC, 2 INC, 3 SC, DEC (12);
56. DEC, 8 SC, DEC (10);
57. DEC, 2 SC, 2 INC, 2 SC, DEC (10);
58. DEC, 6 SC, DEC (8);
59. DEC, SC, 2 INC, SC, DEC (8);
60. DEC, 4 SC, DEC (6);
- work a CH, fold the tail edge in half
and crochet both sides together with
3 SC;
- fix the thread and hide the end
inside the tail.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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Large:
*crochet 2 details
*start with main yarn

0. Chain 12;
- work in spiral;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 10 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from
the hook, on the other side: 10 SC (23);
- change thread color to additional one (leave a long end of crimson
yarn to sew);

2. work a CH, turn, SC, (chain 3, SC)*22 (23);

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- fold detail in half and work both sides together with 1 SC;

- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew.

Medium:
*crochet 2 details
*start with main yarn

0. Chain 9;
- work in spiral;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 7 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from
the hook, on the other side: 7 SC (17);
- change thread color to additional one (leave a long end of crimson
yarn to sew);
2. work a CH, turn, SC, (chain 3, SC)*16 (17);
- fold detail in half and work both sides together with 1 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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Small:
*crochet 2 details
*start with main yarn

0. Chain 6;
- work in spiral;
1. start in the 2nd chain from the hook: 4 SC, 3 SC into the last chain from
the hook, on the other side: 4 SC (11);
- change thread color to additional one (leave a long end of crimson
yarn to sew);
2. work a CH, turn, SC, (chain 3, SC)*10 (11);
- fold detail in half and work both sides together with 1 SC;
- fix the thread and leave a long end to sew.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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*crochet 2 details
*if you crochet a toy of semi-cotton yarn, then use the same hook and
yarn as for the body
*if you crochet a toy of plush yarn, then use a hook 0,75-1 mm larger and
use semi-cotton yarn
*if you crochet a toy of thick plush yarn, then use semi-cotton thread
folded in half
*eye should be 6 rows in height on the head (if it is smaller, take a larger
hook)
*start with black yarn

1. 6 SC in MR;
2. 6 INC (12);
- change thread color to white (leave long
end of black thread to sew);
3. SC, INC HDC, HDC, INC HDC, SC, SS (8);
- fix the thread, leave long ends of black and white
threads for sewing and embroidering the glare;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- work (lilac) chain stitch under white SCs;

- embroider glare with white thread.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- crochet crest on the tail:


• mark points of the beginning and the end of crocheting the crest on
the body (about 2 rows above the end of the body);

• work a SC series from the start to the end points;

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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• make a turn, skip SC of the previous row, work 3 SC, then work INC HDC
in each SC of the previous row up to the last 4 SC;

• work 3 SC, SS in the last 4 SC of the


previous row;
• fix, cut and hide in the tail the thread end.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- sew gills on the sides of the head; small gills pointing down;

- sew the eyes between Rounds 12 and 19 at a distance of 10 SC;


6 rows

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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- embroider the eyebrows;

- embroider the smile:


• mark smile line, as shown in the photo;
• stretch the thread inder the pins;
• fix the middle and two lower points with stitches.

for personal use only @olya.usolya


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for personal use only @olya.usolya

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