Twisted Toadstool

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Twisted Toadstool
Written and Designed by: The Twisted Hatter
Distributing, reselling, rewriting or sharing of this pattern (or its photos) is prohibited (this includes making
tutorials). You may of course sell the finished product, but listing it for sale using my photos is NOT allowed.
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If you have any questions regarding this pattern Please message me via the Site it was purchased
on. I can also be reached on FB & Instagram. I prefer when people message me directly (or in my
fb group), mainly because when you post it on a group page you are not always going to get the
correct answer.
https://www.instagram.com/twistedhatter1981
https://www.facebook.com/groups/998677850555703
Adult: 22.5
Child: 20.6
Materials you will need: Please read this ENTIRE section before purchasing yarn.
*My goal for this pattern was to make finding the yarn size needed a bit easier for people outside
of the US, so I went with RHSS Ombre. It’s still a worsted weight #4, but it’s 2mm as opposed to
RHSS solids which is 3mm. With that being said you still need to use a sturdy yarn or else your hat
won’t hold shape well.
*You can still use regular RHSS or something similar in size, but keep an eye on your tension if you
tend to naturally crochet loose.
*I would recommend doing a test run in a solid color 1st to see where you want to color change if
doing multiple colors (that way you get a better idea of where the colors will hit).
*If using Ombre the easiest way is to buy 2 skeins to pull from (preferably ones that start with the
same color change).
Yarn
Color Approx
Item Yarn Size Brand Used
(Substitute your own) . Yds.
Adult Hat Worsted Weight(4) Deep Teal Red Heart Super Saver Ombre 585
Adult Hat ruffle Worsted Weight(4) Violet Red Heart Super Saver Ombre 220
Jazzy 290
Child Hat Worsted Weight(4) Red Heart Super Saver Ombre
Green Apple 200
Child hat ruffle Worsted Weight(4) Picasso Pink Shades Iceyarns 122
Violet 50
Shrooms Worsted Weight(4) Red Heart Super Saver Ombre
Deep Teal 35
Dots Worsted Weight(4) Violet Red Heart Super Saver Ombre 80
• I hook (5.5mm) Or size needed to obtain gauge • Yarn or tapestry needle

• H hook (5mm) • Small amount of stuffing for Shrooms
• C hook (2.75mm) • 28 Stitch markers
• Scissors • Sewing pins
• Optional: Styrofoam head (very useful when sewing pieces on).
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Stitch Guide: Please read this to avoid questions.
St M: Stitch marker Dc: Double crochet
CC: Color Change 2tog: Decrease between 2 stitches
MR: Magic ring FLO: Front loop only
Ch: Chain BLO: Back loop only
St/Sts: Stitch/Stitches Sk: Skip
Sl st: Slip stitch (join is also a sl st) FO: Fasten off
Bb: Back bump (the bump under the V on a ch) FP: Front Post
Sc: single crochet BP: Back post
Hdc: Half double crochet
Pattern Notes: Please read me!!!

• Do Not count beginning chains unless instructed
• When working in rows: The 1st stitch of the row is worked in the last st of prev row (the st the ch
emerges from) unless instructed not to.
• When working in rnds: The 1st stitch is worked in the same st ch emerges from, unless instructed
not to.
• When you see anything between *-*3x, repeat that sequence the amount of times specified
• When I CC (change color), I join, yo with new color & pull through to CC. If you have a preferred method
feel free to do it that way.
Gauge for Pattern: Double strand with I (5.5mm) Hook (or hook size needed to obtain
gauge). 8 sc & 8 rows= 2.5”
Please make sure you work with the right side of the sts facing out when making this hat.
If you don’t you will run into a major problem when trying to sew the brim.
Right Side Wrong Side

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Adult & Child: Both sizes will start the same, then you will branch off after rnd 36.
I recommend doing rnds 1-31 in a tighter tension to help keep the shape of the twist
Note: You will be working in continuous rounds.
*Refer to pattern notes for 1st st placement in rnds, rows & CC
*Beginning chains are not counted
*Do not join or turn unless instructed
Using I hook (5.5mm) & 2 strands of Deep Teal yarn or Jazzy for child. Yes you hold both strands
when crocheting.
Rnd 1: In MR ch 1, sc 2, hdc 2. (4) Pull strands tight to close, place st marker in last st.
Rnd 2‐4: Sc in nxt2sts, hdc in nxt2sts. (4)
Rnd 5: 2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st, 2hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st. (6)
Rnd 6‐8: Sc in nxt3sts, hdc in nxt3sts. (6)
Rnd 9: 2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt2sts, 2hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt2sts. (8)
Rnd 10&11: Sc in nxt4sts, hdc in nxt4sts. (8)
Rnd 19: Sc in nxt7sts, hdc in nxt7sts. (14)
Rnd 24: *2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt2sts* 3x, *2hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt2sts* 3x. (24)
Rnd 30: *2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt5sts* 6x. (42)
Rnd 31: *Sc in nxt3sts, 2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt3sts* 6x. (48) If you tightened your tension as
recommended, make sure to start the pattern’s gauge now.
Rnd 32: Sc in nxt48sts. (48)
Rnd 34: *Sc in nxt4sts, 2sc in nxt st, sc in nxt4sts* 6x. (60)
Rnd 36: *2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt9sts* 6x. (66) For Child size move onto Child hat, For Adult continue on.
Rnd 37&38: Sc in nxt66sts. (66)
I check my gauge constantly in these next 6 rnds to make sure I stay on track. 8 sc should measure 2.5”.
If your head is smaller than 22.5”, it’s ok if you’re a smidge under gauge. If it’s larger then watch yourself.
Rnd 40‐45 (6rnds): Sc in nxt72sts. (72) This hat isn’t intended to sit low on the head, but if you want it
longer feel free to add more rnds.
Optional: Due to working in continuous rnds, I felt my hat looked a bit lopsided. After rnd 45, I went 32
sts past the st marker (that’s my new end point).
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Before starting the next rnd, place st markers in 1st & last st of rnd 45. You will also want to put st
markers in 1st & last st of nxt rnd.
Rnd 46: BP sc in nxt72sts, join in 1st st made (leave the st markers there). (72) This rnd is where the
under ruffle will be.
We are starting the brim, the sts will be worked in the sts of rnd 45. If you want a shorter brim, the
Childs one will work also, the count will just be different (instead of doing something 21x it would be
23x).
Switch to an H (5mm hook).
**Please go to note & pic on page 14 if your brim starts to ruffle.
If you want to be picky and check gauge mine is 7sc + 7 rows=2”
The rnd count will start at 1.

Rnd 1: Pull yarn loop through to 1st st of rnd 45, ch 1, 2sc in same st as ch 1, sc in nxt2sts, *2Sc in nxt st,
sc in nxt2sts* 23x. (96) Continue working in the rnd without joining
Rnd 3: *Sc in nxt3sts, 2Sc in nxt st* 24x. (120)
Rnd 8: *Sc in nxt5sts, 2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt5sts* 12x. (144)
Rnd 11&12: Sc in nxt168sts. (168)
Rnd 15: *Sc2tog, sc in nxt13sts* 12x, sl st in 1st st made. (168)
Rnd 16: Ch 1, sc in same & nxt167sts, sl st in 1st st made. (168)
Rnd 17: Ch 1, Working in FLO reverse sc (aka crab st) in each st, sl st in 1st st made. (168) FO leaving one
of the strands 6ft for sewing. Sew in all other ends. If you are making the under ruffle go to that section
nxt. If you decide you don’t want it, go to Sewing Brim & Ruffle. The brim still needs to be sewn to help it
keep shape.
Under Ruffle:
*The 1st st starts in the same st as your join
*The beginning chains are not counted (if you have a preferred method like an invisible seam, ch 1, or
anything else feel free to do it)
Using H hook (5mm) & 1 strand Violet yarn.

Join yarn in marked 1st st of rnd 46
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st & nxt71sts, join in 1st st made. (144)

Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in 1st st, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt st, 2dc in
nxt st* 71x, join in 1st st made. (216)
Rnd 3: Ch 2, dc in 1st 2sts, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt2sts, 2dc
in nxt st* 71x, join in 1st st made. (288)
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Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in 1st 4sts, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt4sts, 2dc in nxt st* 71x, join in 1st st made. (432)
The next rnd will be the last rnd of the ruffle. It should hit the 6th rnd from the top not counting
the crab st rnd. I recommend doing a couple sts to see if it touches. If you have to pull on it at all
then please adjust with the options below.
*If you are under you can do treble crochet or do the dc as written then do another rnd of sc or hdc
(without inc) whichever gets you to that point (the 2nd option is more work in my opinion).
*If you are over I’m not sure if it would matter, but you could hdc to be safe and see if that works.
Rnd 6: Ch 2, dc in 1st 5sts, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt5sts, 2dc in nxt st* 71x, join in 1st st made. (504) FO,
sew in end. I would sew the brim/ruffle now, then make any shrooms or pieces you want to sew on.
Child Hat:
I check my gauge constantly in these next 6 rnds to make sure I stay on track. 8 sc should measure 2.5”.
If the kids head is smaller than 20.5”, it’s ok if you’re a smidge under gauge. If it’s larger then watch
yourself ;)
Rnd 37‐44 (8rnds): Sc in nxt66sts. (66) This hat isn’t intended to sit low on the head, but if you want it
longer feel free to add more rnds.
Optional: Due to working in continuous rnds, I felt my hat looked a bit lopsided. After rnd 44, I went 32
sts past the st marker (that’s my new end point).
Before starting the next rnd, place st markers in 1st & last st of rnd 44. You will also want to put st
markers in 1st & last st of nxt rnd.
Rnd 45: BP sc in nxt66sts, join in 1st st made (leave the st markers there). (66) This rnd is where the
under ruffle will be.
We are starting the brim, the sts will be worked in the sts of rnd 44.
Switch to an H (5mm hook).
**Please go to Note & pic on page 14 if your brim starts to ruffle.
If you want to be picky and check gauge, mine is 7sc + 7 rows=2”
The rnd count will start at 1.

Rnd 1: Pull yarn loop through to 1st st of rnd 44, ch 1, 2sc in same st as ch 1, sc in nxt2sts, *2Sc in nxt st,
sc in nxt2sts* 21x. (88) Continue working in the rnd without joining
Rnd 2: *Sc in nxt3sts, 2Sc in nxt st* 22x. (110)
Optional: CC to green. I do this by inserting hook in nxt st, yo with 2strands green, pull through st, yo &
pull through both loops on hook, knot with the pink & FO Pink.
Rnd 11: *Sc2tog, sc in nxt11sts* 11x, sl st in 1st st made. (132)
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sc in same & nxt131sts, sl st in 1st st made. (132)
Rnd 13: Ch 1, Working in FLO reverse sc (aka crab st) in each st, sl st in 1st st made. (132) FO leaving one
of the strands 6ft for sewing. Sew in all other ends. If you are making the under ruffle go to that section
nxt. If you decide you don’t want it, go to Sewing Brim & Ruffle. The brim still needs to be sewn to help it
keep shape.
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Under Ruffle:
*The 1st st starts in the same st as your join
*The beginning chains are not counted (if you have a preferred method like an invisible seam, ch 1, or
anything else feel free to do it)
Using H hook (5mm) & 1 strand Picasso Pink Shades

yarn.
Join yarn in marked 1st st of rnd 45
Rnd 1: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st & nxt65sts, join in 1st st made.

(132)
Rnd 2: Ch 2, dc in 1st st, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt st, 2dc in
nxt st* 65x, join in 1st st made. (198)
The next rnd will be the last rnd of the ruffle. It should hit the 6th rnd from the top not counting
the crab st rnd. I recommend doing a couple sts to see if it touches. If you have to pull on it at all
then please adjust with the options below.
*If you are under you can do treble crochet or do the dc as written then do another rnd of sc or hdc
(without inc) whichever gets you to that point (the 2nd option is more work in my opinion).
*If you are over I’m not sure if it would matter, but you could hdc to be safe and see if that works.
Rnd 5: Ch 2, dc in 1st 4sts, 2dc in nxt st, *dc in nxt4sts, 2dc in nxt st* 65x, join in 1st st made. (396) FO,
sew in end. I would sew the brim/ruffle now, then make any shrooms or pieces you want to sew on.
Sewing Brim & Ruffle: Please refer to the pictures provided

*I wanted to work the brim in continuous rnds to avoid having a seam. It does make it a tad harder when
trying to mark the sts because of the rnd shift where the seam would normally be. I place my 1st marker
to the right of the “seam” & continue counting & marking towards the right.
*You will be marking the 3rd loop of the sc (it’s the bump on the wrong side of the sc, see pic if needed).
With the underside of the brim facing you, count 6

rnds down from the outer portion of the brim (not
counting the crab st rnd), place a st marker in the 3rd
loop of sc, count 6sts, place st M in 6th st (you should
have 5 open sts between the 2 M), continue doing
that all the way around making sure you stay on the
6th rnd.
When you place the last marker, you’re going to

notice how the 1st & last one look off by a rnd (don’t
worry it won’t be noticeable when sewn). You should
have 28 (22 for child) st markers total placed.
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Line up rnd 1 of the ruffle with the st M directly above it &

attach one st to the st M, count 18sts & attach the 18th st to
the nxt st M, repeat that all the way around.
Fold brim to where the Remaining BLO of the brim is

touching the 3rd loop of marked rnd (the fold should hit
between the dec rnd and the prev rnd), using your FO
strand, whip st the BLO & 3rd loops together, when you
reach a marker insert needle through the ruffle, 3rd loop &
BLO connecting the 3 together. FO sew in all ends.
There are probably much better shroom patterns out there, but here’s mine in case you’re
lazy like me & don’t want to search lol!
*I personally like to needle felt over the shrooms. Since I don’t know enough about that, I’m doing color
changes. I separated my Violet Ombre into 4 sections, light (V,a), medium (V,b), dark (V,c), & darkest
(V,d).
*To Color Change (CC) for these
I insert my hook in nxt st, yo with
new color, pull through, yo, pull
through both loops (this is the
1st sc of the rnd). FO prev color,
knot & work over the strands.
The CC is the 1st sc of the rnd.

Pls keep that in mind if you are
not doing a CC.
1 2 3 4 5
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All Shrooms will be worked with a C hook (2.75mm) & 1 strand of yarn
*Do not join or turn unless instructed. You will be working in continuous rnds.
Shroom 1: Make 1
Starting with Violet (A)
Rnd 1: In MR, ch 1, sc 2, hdc 2. (4) Pull strand tight to close, place st M.
Rnd 3: 2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st, 2hdc in nxt st, hdc in nxt st. (6)
Rnd 6: CC to (V,b) in nxt st, FO (V,a), sc in nxt3sts, hdc in nxt4sts. (8)
Rnd 7: *Sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st* 4x. (12)
Rnd 9: *Sc in nxt2sts, 2sc in nxt st* 4x. (16)
Rnd 10: CC to (V,c) in nxt st, FO (V,b), sc in nxt2sts, 2sc in nxt st, *sc in nxt3sts, 2sc in nxt st* 3x. (20)
Rnd 12: CC to (V,d)in nxt st (place st M for later), FO (V,c), sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st, *sc in nxt2sts, 2sc in
nxt st* 7x. (32)
Rnd 13: BP sc in nxt32sts. (32)
Rnd 14: CC to Teal in nxt st, drop (V,d) keeping it on the outside of your work, *sc2tog* 15x, sc in nxt st.
(17) lightly stuff
Rnd 15: *sc2tog* 7x, sc3tog. (8)
Rnd 16: FP sc in nxt8sts. (8)
Rnd 17: *Sc in nxt2sts, sc2tog* 2x. (6)
Rnd 22‐24: Sc in nxt10sts. (10) You can do as many rnds of this as you want for desired length. If you are
sewing it onto a flat surface do desired amount of rnds, sl st in 1st st made, FO leaving a tail for sewing. Or
do the nxt couple rows if sewing onto the side of hat (I think it sits better this way).
Row 25: Sl st in nxt st, ch 1, sc in same & nxt7sts, leave rem sts unworked, ch 1, TURN. (8)
Row 26: Sc2tog, sc in nxt4sts, sc2tog, ch 1, turn. (6)
Row 28: *Sc2tog* 2x. (2) FO leaving a tail for sewing. Lightly stuff stem.
Rnd 29: Return to rnd 12, pull (V,d) through marked st, ch 1, sc in same & nxt31sts, join in 1st st made.
(32) FO, sew in end.
Shroom 2: Make 1
Rnd 1: In MR, ch 1, sc 4. (4) Pull strand tight to close, place st M.
Rnd 2: 2Sc in nxt4sts. (8)
Rnd 3: CC to (V,b) in nxt st, FO (V,a), 2sc in nxt st, *sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st* 3x. (12)
Rnd 5: CC to (V,c) in nxt st, FO (V,b), sc in nxt15sts. (16)
Rnd 7: CC to (V,d) in nxt st (place a st M for later), FO (V,c), sc in nxt3sts, 2sc in nxt st, *sc in nxt4sts, 2sc
in nxt st* 3x. (24)
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Rnd 9: CC to Teal in nxt st, drop (V,d) keeping it on the outside of your work, *sc2tog* 11x, sc in nxt st.
(13) lightly stuff
Rnd 16&17: Sc in nxt10sts. (10) You can do as many rnds of this as you want for desired length. If you
are sewing it onto a flat surface do desired amount of rnds, sl st in 1st st made, FO leaving a tail for
sewing. Or do the nxt couple rows if sewing onto the side of hat (I think it sits better this way).
Rnd 22: Return to marked st on rnd 7, pull (V,d) through marked st, ch 1, sc in same st, picot= (ch3, sl st
in BB of 3rd ch from hook), *sc in nxt2sts, picot* 11x, sc in nxt st, join in 1st st made. (12 points) FO sew in
end.
Shroom 3: Make 1
Rnd 7: CC to (V,d) in nxt st, FO (V,c), sc in nxt23sts. (24)
Rnd 9: CC to Teal in nxt st, FO (V,d), *sc2tog* 11x, sc in nxt st. (13) lightly stuff
Rnd 15&16: Sc in nxt10sts. (10) You can do as many rnds of this as you want for desired length. If you
are sewing it onto a flat surface do desired amount of rnds, sl st in 1st st made, FO leaving a tail for
sewing. Or do the nxt couple rows if sewing onto the side of hat (I think it sits better this way).
Shroom 4: Make 1
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Rnd 8: CC to Teal in nxt st, FO (V,d), sc in nxt st, sc2tog, *sc in nxt2sts, sc2tog* 9x. (30)
Rnd 9: *Sc in nxt st, sc2tog* 10x. (20)
Rnd 10: *sc2tog* 10x. (10)
Rnd 11: *FP sc2tog, FP sc in nxt st* 2x, FP sc2tog, FP sc in nxt2sts. (7)
Rnd 14: 2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt6sts. (8)
Rnd 16‐20: Sc in nxt10sts. (10) You can do as many rnds of this as you want for desired length. If you are
Shroom 5: Make 3
*I’m not going to CC on the cap, instead I’m doing 1 of each. (V,a), (V,c) & (V,d)
Starting with Violet (A), (C) or (D)
Rnd 3: *Sc in nxt st, 2sc in nxt st* 6x. (18)
Rnd 7: CC to Teal in nxt st, FO (V), *sc3tog* 5x, sc2tog. (7) Lightly stuff
Rnd 8: FP sc2tog, FP sc in nxt5sts. (6)
Rnd 13: Sc in nxt10sts. (10) You can do as many rnds of this as you want for desired length. If you are
Dots: Make as many as you like

*I’m still using my separated Violet yarn. I’m starting the dots light at the brim & gradually going to dark
up to the tip of the hat. I pin each one on after making it to see how I want them arranged.
*When I sew these on I’m going to have the wrong side facing up because I like the way it bubbles up a
tad (if you do it that way make sure your MR knot is on the “right side”).
Page 12 of 14
Using C hook (2.75mm) & 1 strand of Violet yarn
*You will be working in continuous rnds.
*All dot sizes are started from rnd 1 of the same pattern, at the end of each rnd you can either sl st in 1st
st made & FO leaving a tail for sewing, or do not sl st & keep going for a larger dot.
Rnd 1: In MR, ch 1, sc 8. (8) Pull strand tight to close, sl st FO or continue, place st M.

Rnd 2: 2Sc in nxt8sts. (16) Sl st, FO or continue.
Rnd 3: *2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt st* 8x. (24) Sl st, FO or continue.
Rnd 4: Sc in nxt24sts, sl st in 1st st made. (24) Sl st, FO or continue.
Rnd 5: *2Sc in nxt st, sc in nxt2sts* 8x. (32) FO leaving a tail for sewing.
Sewing Pieces on:

Begin by pinning all the pieces onto the hat.
For cleaner sewing I split my yarn in half for the dots, it makes the sts less noticeable.
*For the Shrooms you will pin the opening onto the hat, then whip st around it.
*For the dots I prefer the wrong side of the sts facing up, but you can do it either way. I whip st mine on
by grabbing a st of the hat & going into the outer loop of the dot.
Page 13 of 14
Your Toadstool is complete,

it was no easy feat,
now come join me in the shade,
or go frolic in the glade!
I hope you enjoyed this pattern! Feel free to tag me in your finished item.
Page 14 of 14
Note about the brim: The brim was designed to be flat. During testing a couple of the testers brims
ruffled up. I did try to fix the issue, but I can’t get mine to ruffle so I’m not sure what is causing the issue
(it could have something to do with tension). With that being said, I personally think it’s cute (some
shrooms are like that).

Twisted Toadstool

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Page 1 of 14

• I hook (5.5mm) Or size needed to obtain gauge • Yarn or tapestry needle

Pattern Notes: Please read me!!!

Right Side Wrong Side

The rnd count will start at 1.

Using H hook (5mm) & 1 strand Violet yarn.

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st & nxt71sts, join in 1st st made. (144)

The rnd count will start at 1.

Using H hook (5mm) & 1 strand Picasso Pink Shades

Rnd 1: Ch 2, 2dc in 1st & nxt65sts, join in 1st st made.

Sewing Brim & Ruffle: Please refer to the pictures provided

With the underside of the brim facing you, count 6

When you place the last marker, you’re going to

Line up rnd 1 of the ruffle with the st M directly above it &

Fold brim to where the Remaining BLO of the brim is

The CC is the 1st sc of the rnd.

Dots: Make as many as you like

Rnd 1: In MR, ch 1, sc 8. (8) Pull strand tight to close, sl st FO or continue, place st M.

Sewing Pieces on:

Your Toadstool is complete,

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