Crochet dragon pattern

Wyvern

Designed by Kristina Mavdrik @mavdrik_toys

https://instagram.com/mavdrik_toys
Do not take a purchased (or free) copy of the pattern and rewrite it into your own words/terms. Just as you cannot
copy, translate the pattern and “reword” it to make it your own, you also cannot share the pattern you purchased
with a friend. Do not share the photos from this pattern to sell your finished product of that work, or for any other
purpose. That’s a copyright infringement.
List of recommended materials and tools:

Yarn Velour in cakes (100 g/450 m) – main yarn color;

Size 1.1 mm crochet hook;

Glass eyes d. 12mm;

Toy stuffing;

Florist wire d 0.55 mm, you will need a cut 220cm length;

Seed beads;

Clear glue;

Sewing needle, scissors, pins;

A chalk of soft pastel, its color is one shade darker than main yarn color (color
choice is just my recommendation);

__

It may help to use your favorite materials and tools but in this case you might need
to adapt eyes size. Final size of your work may differ.

Final size of the dragon with the recommended materials and tools will be about
25cm length without the tail length; the wingspan is about 30 cm.

If you choose recommended materials

and tools, you will 35gr of velour
yarn.
Wyvern the dragon

A wyvern is a legendary winged dragon, a popular creature in European literature,

mythology and folklore. Today they are often used in fantasy literature and video
games; frequently appear as a mascot of schools and athletic teams. George RR
Martin chose these wyvern dragons in “A song of Ice and Fire”.

I am a great fan of the dragons, its beautiful body shape and bewitching wingspan.

The dragon has a wire frame inside, so its posable. The horns are crocheted in and
the limbs are made on the body.

The file includes a detailed instruction on wire frame making and decoration steps.

The pattern is a detailed step by step

instruction with many photos and videos
of difficult steps.

If you have any questions or problems

with the pattern, please do not hesitate to
contact me, I am always happy to help.

You may also like:

My VKontakte group -
https://vk.com/mavdrik_toys

Instagram - https://instagram.com/mavdrik_toys?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=

My book “How to crochet a dragon” - https://book24.ru/~7FN4W

Abbreviations (US crochet terms):

MR- magic ring;

SC- single crochet;

DC- double crochet;

HDC- half double crochet;

SL ST – a slip stitch;

INC- increase;

DEC- decrease;

CH- a chain stitch;

picot stitch – ch3, sl st into the 1st stitch of foundation

Head-body-tail (a continuous piece)

1. Start 6 sc in a MR

2. 6 inc = 12 sc

3. (sc, inc) * 6 = 18 sc

It may help to use a running stitch

marker, a cut of wasted yarn to mark the
beginning/end of a round.

4. (5 sc, inc) * 3 = 21 sc

5. Without any changes = 21 sc

6. (6 sc, inc) * 3 = 24 sc

7. Without any changes = 24 sc

8. (7 sc, inc) * 3 = 27 sc

9. Without any changes = 27 sc

10. (8 sc, inc) * 3 = 30 sc

11. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 sc

12. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 sc

If you use safety eyes, install them

between the 12th and the 13th rounds in
the center from both sides.

13 - 16. Without any changes (4 rounds)

= 42 sc

17. (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 sc

18. (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 sc

19. Without any changes = 30 sc

20. (3 sc, dec) * 6 = 24 sc

Add stuffing.
 21. Without any changes = 24 sc
back loop
Without cutting the yarn, continue making
the horns. See the chart below.

22. Crochet 7 sc; now crochet the stitches

in brackets into front loops only.

(ch7, ch1, from the 2nd stitch from hook 3

front loop
sc, 3 hdc, sl st into next stitch of the head,
ch5, ch1, 2 sc, 2 hdc,

Crochet 8sc into front loops of the head, ch5, ch1, 2 sc, 2 hdc, sl st into next stitch,
ch7, ch1, 3 sc, 3 hdc) continue making the round, crochet 7 sc to the end of the

CH1
sc
thestitches of the hdc
22nd round CH1

round, work into both loops= 24 sc

23. Without any changes = 24 sc. You worked into front loops in the round below,
so in these stitches, work into the unused back loops.

24. (2 sc, dec) * 6 = 18 sc

25 - 26. Without any changes = 18 sc

27. (2 sc, inc) * 6 = 24 sc

28 - 36. Without any changes (9 rounds) =

24 sc

37. (3 sc, inc) * 6 = 30 sc

38 - 40. Without any changes (3 rounds) =

30 sc

41. (4 sc, inc) * 6 = 36 sc

42 - 45. Without any changes (4 rounds) =

36 sc

Make wire frame.

To control symmetry of the legs I install

a running stitch marker in the middle of
bottom part. I choose thin cotton thread
bright color to mark.

Take a cut of wire 40cm length. Make a

loop on a tip of a wire cut, its length is
equal the length of crocheted piece, I
made 11cm length. Install wire frame
deep inside the head. Now the head and
the neck are posable. Add stuffing.

Make 2 cuts of wire 30cm length

(each).

Twist each cut of wire as pictured.

The length of twisted part is 7 cm.

There are must be 3 toes on its tip as
pictured. The length of each toe is 1cm.
Try to make all limbs symmetrical to
each other.
Click the link to watch the video on how to make the
limbs:

https://youtube.com/shorts/TArY0wEOXGs

If you
choose a
printed version of the pattern, it may
help to scan the QR code.

Twist two limbs to connect as pictured.

Leave long tips of wire frames. Connect
the limbs with main wire frame.

Twist tips of wire frame to connect.

46. Without any changes = 36 sc, 12 sc is the distance between the legs.

Do not forget to place wire frame into a gap between stitches as you go (6 sc, the
leg, 24 sc, the leg, 6 sc). Front legs must be placed on the line of the 1st and the last
horns.

47 - 51. Without any changes (5 rounds) =

36 sc

52. (5 sc, inc) * 6 = 42 sc

53. Without any changes = 42 sc

54. (5 sc, dec) * 6 = 36 sc

55 -57. Without any changes (3 rounds) =

36 sc

58. (4 sc, dec) * 6 = 30 sc

59. Without any changes = 30 sc

60. (8 sc, dec) * 3 = 27 sc

61. (7 sc, dec) * 3 = 24 sc

62. Without any changes = 24 sc

Add stuffing.
Make back legs.

Take 2 cuts of wire 30cm length (each).

Twist back legs as you do for front legs.

The length of twisted part is 7 cm. There are 3 toes on a tip of each leg, as pictured.
The length of each toe is 1 cm. Try to make all limbs symmetrical to each other.

Twist wire frames together to connect as pictured. Twist the wire frames to main
wire frame to connect. It may help to wrap medical tape to secure the place of
connection.
Remove all extra cuts of wire frame, leaving the longest. Its length is minimum 20
or 25cm. If the length of your wire frame is shorter, connect one more cut of wire.

If you choose a different yarn fiber, focus on the size of your dragon– the length of
remained part of wire frame must be longer than the length of crocheted part of the
head and the body (I think at least two or three cm).

63. Without any changes = 24 sc. Do not forget to place wire frame into a gap
between stitches as you go.

The limbs are placed symmetrically as pictured. The distance between back legs is
10 stitches.

64 - 65. Without any changes = 24 sc

Stuff the work as you go.

66. (6 sc, dec) * 3 = 21 sc

67. Without any changes = 21 sc

68. (5 sc, dec) * 3 = 18 sc

69 - 70. Without any changes = 18 sc

71. (4 sc, dec) * 3 = 15 sc

72 - 73. Without any changes = 15 sc

74. (3 sc, dec) * 3 = 12 sc

75 – 78. Without any changes (4 rounds) =

12 sc

79. (2 sc, dec) * 3 = 9 sc

80 - 84. Without any changes (5 rounds) = 9

sc

85. (sc, dec) * 3 = 6 sc

86 – 87. Without any changes = 6 sc

88. 3 dec = 3 sc

Make a loop, pull the yarn but do not cut it.

Wrap the yarn around the tail.

Cut remained tip of wire frame, leaving

about 10cm length.

Drop some glue and wrap yarn around the tip

of wire frame. Pull the yarn tightly. Wrap
more yarn near the foundation to strengthen.
Thread a needle and hide remained yarn tail inside the body.
Front legs

Step 1 sc from the leg and attach the yarn. Crochet 8 sc (I marked them in orange
color) on the surface around the leg as pictured. Insert your crochet hook into the
gaps between the stitches.

1 - 11. Without any changes = 8 sc

Add stuffing.

12. (sc, dec) * 2, dec = 5 sc

13 - 15. Without any changes = 5 sc

Cut and fasten off the yarn.

Thread a needle (use long cut of thread, do not tie a knot).

Drop some glue and holding the yarn tail, wrap yarn around the toe. Repeat for all
remained toes. Then wrap yarn around the leg.

Wrap more yarn near the foundation to strengthen. Draw yarn through the body
several times to fasten off. Bend the leg as you like best.

Wrap yarn around the second leg the same way.

Click the link to watch the video to know how to wrap yarn
around the toes:

https://youtu.be/-2QuMNQrUFw
Back legs

Step 1 sc from the leg and attach the yarn. Crochet 10 sc on the surface around the
leg as pictured. Insert your crochet hook into the gaps between the stitches.

1 - 8. Without any changes = 10 sc

Add enough stuffing inside back legs.

9. (sc, dec) * 3, sc = 7 sc

10. Without any changes = 7 sc

11. (sc, dec) * 2, sc = 5 sc

12. Without any changes = 5 sc

Cut and fasten off the yarn.

Thread a needle (use long cut of thread, do

not tie a knot).

Drop some glue and holding the yarn tail, wrap yarn around the toe. Repeat for all
remained toes. Then wrap yarn around the leg.

Wrap more yarn near the foundation to strengthen. Draw yarn through the body
several times to fasten off. Bend the leg as pictured.

Wrap yarn around the second back leg the same way.
Wings

Work in flat rows making ch1 at the end of each row, incomplete rows.

! You will see the chart on the next page. I recommend printing it and mark the
rounds you have finished. It helps you not to count each stitch. I hope this note is
helpful.

1. Make ch45. Continue working from the 2nd stitch from hook (it may help to
crochet one more chain stitch if it is difficult to work into the 1 st one).

2. 44 sc, ch1, turn the work = 44 sc

3. 20 hdc, I use a running stitch marker to mark the 20th stitch not to count each
stitch and to see the place where sc and hdc meet, 12 sc, do not finish the row (the
row is incomplete) crochet ch1 and turn the work = 32 sc
 1st row
3rd row
5th row
7th row
9th row
The wing making chart

11th
row
27
29
31
33
35
4. 12 sc, 20 hdc, ch1, turn the work (make ch1 loose when you finish hdc, it helps
to make a beautiful flat edge) = 32 sc

5. 20 hdc, 22 sc (12 stitches are stitches of last round and other stitches of an
incomplete row), dec, ch1, turn = 43 sc

6. Dec, 21 sc, 20 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 42 sc

7. 20 hdc, 10 sc (incomplete row), ch1, turn the

work = 30 sc

8. 10 sc, 20 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 30 sc

9. 20 hdc, 20 sc, dec, ch1, turn the work = 41 sc

10. Dec, 19 sc, 20 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 40
sc

11. Crochet sc in the row (you work 40 normal

stitches along the stitches of the row below,
and 4 more stitches in the places where you
made decreases in the rows below. I marked
these 4 stitches in the picture) ch1, turn the
work = 44 sc

Working yarn is above when you finish the

row.

Continue working.

12. 24 sc, 20 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 44 sc

13 – 22. Continue working, repeat the rows

from the 3rd to the 12th, follow the chart above.
23. Hdc, hdc dec, 17 hdc, 12 sc
(incomplete row), ch1, turn the work = 31
sc

24. 12 sc, 19 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 31

sc

25. Hdc, 2 hdc dec, 14 hdc, 22 sc, dec,

ch1, turn the work = 40 sc

26. Dec, 21 sc, 17 hdc, ch1, turn the work

= 39 sc

27. Hdc, 2 hdc dec, 12 hdc, 10 sc

(incomplete row), ch1, turn the work = 25 sc

28. 10 sc, 15 hdc, ch1, turn the work = 25 sc

29. Hdc, 2 hdc dec, 10 hdc, 20 sc, dec, ch1, turn the work = 34 sc

30. Dec, 19 sc, 8 hdc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, ch1,

turn the work = 31 sc

31. Hdc, 2 hdc dec, 6 hdc, 4 sc,

(incomplete row), ch1, turn the work = 13
sc

32. 4 sc,4 hdc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, ch1, turn

the work = 11 sc

33. Hdc, 2 hdc dec, 2 hdc, 17 sc, dec, ch1,

turn the work = 23 sc

34. sc, 2 dec,13 sc, 2 hdc dec, hdc, ch1, turn the work = 19 sc

35. sc, 2 dec, 10 sc, 2 dec, ch1, turn the work = 15 sc

36. 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, sc, ch1, turn the work = 11 sc

37. Sc,2 dec, 4 sc, dec =8 sc

38. Dec, 6 sc, ch1, turn the work = 7 sc

39. 5 sc, dec = 6 sc

40. Without any changes = 6 sc.

Cut the yarn.

Repeat the pattern to crochet the 2nd wing.

Wings wire frame

Take a long cut of wire (I made 40 cm

length). Make a loop on a tip of wire;
place it along the wing foundation.

The loop is not more than 1 cm longer

than the wing.

Thread a needle (use long thread), do

not tie a knot.

Make several stitches to fasten off wire

frame, wrap thread around the loop
(you made the same for the toes).

Use a needle and thread to sew the wire frame to top of the wing (see the chart).

! I recommend using wire frame matching or similar color to the yarn color you
choose. Make stitches very often, wire frame is not seen.

When you sew wire frame stretch the edge of the work as you go.
When you reach the top of the wing, turn wire frame to the bottom of the wing.
Place wire frame to the center of the wing (12-13 rounds). Make stitches to sew.

Click the link to watch the video on how to sew wire on

the wing: https://youtube.com/shorts/fQC7k5Ce1Nw

Make a loop on bottom of the wing. Cut the wire; bend

its edge to the wing. Wrap yarn around the loop. Fasten off the yarn and hide it
inside the body.
Take one more long cut of wire (at least
20 cm length). Make a loop 1 cm length
on its tip and place it from the bottom to
the top of the wing, stepping 6 stitches
from the wire frame you already made.

Sew wire frame to the top. Cut extra

length, bend the edge of the wire frame
and sew it on the wing. You made wire
frame for the 1st wing. Repeat all steps for
the 2nd wing in a mirror image. You make
left and right wings.
Decoration and assembly

Sew seed beads on the wings. I recommend doing it before you install the wings.

I use seed beads different sizes 10 and 12, the colors match to the eyes of the
dragon. I recommend using sewing

thread matching color; sew the seed beads

on top part of the wing.

Decorate the eyes. Glue glass eyes, I

choose 12mm diameter.

Glue the eyes on the 12th or the 13th

rounds of the head symmetrically from
both sides. You may glue them in the
center or lift them down. It will influence
on the mood of your dragon

Thread a needle (take a long cut of

thread). Embroider upper and lower
eyelids. Upper eyelid is wider and bigger.
Do not cut the thread; embroider the
nostrils. Pull the needle out of a gap
between the 3rd and the 4th rounds of the
head on the eyes line. Make a stitch 1 sc
length. Wrap thread as pictured.
Spine

Attach the yarn to the center of the head,

stepping sc from the horns.

Crochet sc along the body on the center of

the back to the end of crocheted part of
the body. Insert your crochet hook into
gaps between stitches.

Click the link to watch

the video to know
how to crochet the
spine: https://youtube.com/shorts/Ak4DG-urPn0

Ch1, turn the work, sl st, 2 hdc into one

stitch, sc.

Now you will repeat the sequence of

stitches mentioned in brackets indicated
times number:

(2 dc, picot stitch, 2 dc) – into one stitch,

4 sc – repeat 9 times.
Last spike of the back which is closer to the
head is bigger than others.

Crochet ch2, now crochet all stitches in

brackets into next stitch - (3 dc, picot stitch,
3 dc), ch2 and sl st. Fasten off the yarn, hide
remained yarn tail inside the body.

Tinting

It helps to make the dragon more expressive.

I do not make bright shades. I choose extra soft pastel and an angle brush. Apply a
chalk on a sheet of paper, take the brush and start shading.

! I highly recommend crocheting a sample and check how the shading looks on the
surface!

I paint tips of the spikes and the horns, space above and under the eyelids, the
nostrils and wire frame of the wings.
Sew the wings

I recommend pin the wings and check how they look on the body and only then
start sewing.

Pin the wing near the wing foundation on the body; fasten off top part of the wing,
stepping 0.5mm from the foot of front leg. Sew the wing on the front leg to the leg
foundation and grabbing stitches of the body near the foundation.
Congrats! You have just
finished the pattern.

Have fun!

Best regards,

Kristina Mavdrik