Costuming:SL esb vader

Darth Vader: ESB

Model SL-33075, Photo by Matthew R Barker

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	Description: Darth Vader: ESB Prefix: SL Detachment: Sith Lord Detachment Context: Star Wars Episode V: The Empire Strikes Back See also: ROTS Vader, ANH Vader, ROTJ Vader

For 501st membership, only the requirements in black need to be met. The Sith Lord Detachment defines additional, optional levels of costuming excellence. In the page below, items listed under “For level two certification” are recommended features that will greatly improve the quality of the costume. These items are not required for 501st membership, but are highly recommended. Items listed under “For level three certification” are some of the highest level accuracy features for those who strive to be screen accurate. Please visit the SLD site for more specific details.

Please note: Visit the Frequently asked questions page for information on the Rubies Supreme Vader costume. All uses of the term silver in this document imply a machined aluminum look. Weathered or used aspects referred to in text, may not necessarily be depicted in photos. Click pictures to enlarge and view details; the text only highlights the key aspects of each component.

This Visual Guide has been reviewed by the detachment staff and the LMO team and is certified for use as a minimum approval guideline for GMLs. GMLs are free to approve this costume type. This document is not intended to be a detailed how-to on costume construction; rather a visual guide to be used for 501st costume approval. Details on construction may be found on the respective costume detachment web forum. GMLs uncertain about an aspect of submitted costume shall post questions in the appropriate DL/GML peer review section of the Legion forum. Measurements given in this document are intended to be approximate and generalized; not criteria for approval. Requirements for all 501st costumes are proportional to the wearer in scale, fit and size. Text descriptions are only one part of the guideline. GMLs and costumers must consider both text and pictures (CRL and Reference) when reviewing the costume.

Required Costume Components

The following costume components are present and appear as described below.

	Dome The dome is gloss black. There is a thumb-sized indentation in the front center of the dome brow, but there is no sharp point in the dome brow between the eyes of the mask. Allowed (but not recommended): The front center of the dome brow may be smooth and not contain an indentation.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The black paint used on the dome should match that used on the face mask and the chest armor. The brow of the dome should sit level with the brows of the mask contouring to them and allowing them to be revealed.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): When viewed from the side, the bottom of the dome should slope downward to the back. This hides the back edge of the face mask neck. The center ridge ("mohawk") should be prominent from the rest of the dome and not rounded off. When the wearer looks up such that the lower tubes on the sides of the mask are horizontal, the very back of the dome should almost be touching or flush with the cape.

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	Face Mask The face mask is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal/dark grey. The inset of the nose should be silver. The face mask is asymmetrical. The lenses are slightly bubbled and tinted amber/dark grey (eyes are not visible behind lenses). The lower mouth vent is triangular with rounded corners, and is slightly smaller than the size of the upper mouth vent. Large, silver, diamond-shaped mesh is inset in both vents; additional black screen backing may be used to conceal the wearer’s face further. The tusks are metal-looking, silver, and have rounded (hemispherical) tips. There is not a substantial gap between the neck of the face mask and the top of the chest armor. The neck of the face mask should hover over the neck of the chest armor. No skin is visible from any angle (under or through the mask). Allowed (but not recommended): The tusks may have pointed (conical) tips.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The lenses should be tinted amber with NO reddish hue. The black and grey paints used on the face mask should match that used on the dome and the chest armor. All features of the face mask (corners, edges, etc.) should have a sharp, crisp, and non-rounded look to them besides the tubes. No neck brace should be worn with the face mask.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The eye sockets (areas bordering the lenses) should be painted black except the bridge of the nose. On the wearer's right, the grey section of paint directly above the cheek should come to a sharp point on the side of the nose. The small lower section of each cheek is painted black. To contrast the cheek on the wearer's left, and to match the cheek on the wearer's right. The wearer's right side of the mask is higher than the left side (asymmetrical). The neck of the face mask should sit on the top part of the chest armor when the wearer looks slightly downward.

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Balaclava A balaclava is a black head sock/hood that is worn under the helmet and is used primarily to hide the following features: the wearer's mouth which could be seen through the mouth and chin vents, the wearer's neck which could be seen under and around the neck of the mask (especially during movement of the head), and the back of the wearer's neck/head which could be seen from the back at a low angle underneath the dome. While the balaclava is labeled as "required" merely because it is the simplest way to ensure that none of the features listed above are visible when the wearer is in full costume as well as to keep the wearer's head cool, any other items or methods that achieve the same result may be used instead of an actual balaclava.

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	Cape The cape is made of black wool (or wool equivalent). The cape should be between 200 and 220 degrees when laid out flat. On the wearer, the cape should be open from armor corner, around back, to the other armor corner. Not open like ROTS. Not closed like Rogue One. The cape collar is black leather (or leather-like material) and is one inch (1”) to one and one quarter inches wide. (1-¼”). The cape collar should not be seen when worn correctly. The cape is held closed with a chain, or fastened/positioned to give the same effect as being held closed with a chain. The front of the cape collar is pulled under the neck of the mask so that the cape chain is not visible. Allowed (but not recommended): The satin lining may equally hang one to two inches below the entire wool component of the cape.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The cape should be made of wool and the cape collar should be made of leather. The cape collar should not be visible in full costume when viewing the wearer from behind. The edges of the cape should drape over the front corners of the chest armor thus hiding the shoulder bells while the wearer's arms are at his/her side; the edges should not drape so far inward that they overlap onto the outermost black raised sections.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The outside of the cape should be constructed in either three, four or six panels (sections of wool).

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	Chest Armor The chest armor is painted in an alternating pattern of gloss black and gloss gunmetal grey. The centermost raised section is grey, and all other raised sections are black. The shoulder bells are entirely black, and each are attached to the chest armor by hinges or are fixed to the armor to simulate hinged bells. The bells can also be attached to the chest armor by leather (or other fabric) strapping which allows the bells to hang.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The black and grey paints used on the chest armor should match the colors that were used on the dome and the face mask. The armor should be fitted with padding if necessary to ensure 1) the bottom of the armor does not rise up substantially off the chest, 2) the back of the chest armor does not stick out substantially through the cape, 3) that the side of the chest armor and the top of the shoulder bells are almost flush.

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	Inner Robe The inner robe is made of the same material as the outside of the cape (wool). It is ankle length, and worn over the codpiece, but under the chest armor and belt, and the edges of the robe are a few inches away from the chest box. The edges of the robe line up with the black stripe on the chest armor at the top, and the inside edge of the belt boxes (toward the buckle) at the belt. There are at least three darts/pleats on each side of the inner robe that run perpendicular to the belt. The first dart/pleat is placed one and one quarter inches (1-1/4”) from the inside edge of the robe. Each dart/pleat is three-quarter inches (3/4”) wide and three-quarter inches (3/4”) deep. The darts/pleats are sewn from the belt to mid-chest box height. Approximately four inches. (4”). The pleats/darts are folded over toward the chest box and pressed down. The folded over dart/pleat should run from the belt to under the chest armor. The darts/pleats can be sewn down to give the tight pleated look, or they can be left open above the sewn dart line and folded over without sewing them down and allowed to open. Allowed: The side seams may be open from the belt down if the robe isn't full enough to properly drape in the front.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The arm opening should be large enough for the body suit to be seen under the arm.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The inner robe should be secured firmly by the belt so that the area between the belt and chest armor stays close to the wearer and is pulled taut. The opening of the inner robe should gradually get larger as it approaches the chest armor. The edges of the robe should not be completely vertical from the belt to the chest armor. The edges of the robe should intersect the chest armor on the black stripes and intersect the belt boxes between the inside edge and the middle of the belt box. The inner robe darts/pleats should have the “ESB-look”. This look is, as in the Hoth scene and others, where the darts are held together tightly until mid-chestbox, then open up as the darts go toward the armor. See reference photos.

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	Chestbox The chest box is square, satin black, and worn right below the chest armor. The black leather (or leather-like material) one inch (1") wide straps are worn over the bodysuit, but under the chest armor and inner robe, and attach to the top and sides of the chest box as shown. The face of the chest box consists of: Two metal-looking silver rods on each side that are machined as shown, and each are bracketed at the top and bottom. The brackets at the top are black and each have a “U” shaped cutout on the upper inner half of the bracket. The brackets at the bottom are bronze in appearance and bear a finned design. Three vertically stacked metal-looking silver coin slots on the wearer's right. These coin slots blink red. A blue colored panel (upper) and a red colored panel (lower) are on the wearer’s left and each are mounted in a raised black area slightly larger than the panels themselves. These panels are unlit. Along the bottom are four rocker switches which are mounted in a raised black section at their base and are, from wearer's right to left, three white and one red. Small metal-looking silver switches are between each rocker and above each colored panel (five total). Exotic (not aurebesh) text appears below each of the coin slots. Allowed (but not recommended): The top black brackets may have upside down "U" shaped cutouts on the lower inner half of the bracket. The blue and red colored panels may be lit.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): In terms of width, the chest box should extend just past the center-most black sections of the chest armor. The straps should be made of leather. The coin slots should not blink too rapidly (strobe) nor stay lit for more than a couple of seconds. None of the five metal silver switches should resemble each another. All should have more of a chrome appearance as opposed to a machined aluminum appearance.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The chestbox should be slightly weathered and the straps should look slightly aged. The black bracket on the wearer’s right should be larger than the one on the wearer’s left. The bronze bracket on the wearer’s left should not bear the finned design on the outer half. The outer edge of each bracket should slightly protrude towards the top of the chest box (mirror image each other). The center of each coin slot should have square corners, and contains a semi-translucent red material.

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	Bodysuit The body suit is made of black leather (or leather-like material), fitted to the wearer, and quilted in lines spaced about one inch apart down the torso, arms, and legs. A one-, two-, or three-piece suit is acceptable. An open mesh back is also acceptable for comfort and heat dispersal. Additional Note: The body suit in the film was constructed in three pieces: A top with only the sleeves quilted, a vest, and pants.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The body suit should be made of leather. It should have a wrinkled/worn appearance.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The vest front of the bodysuit should have the look of being made from four quilted parts with the seams in the correct places. There should be a middle seam, and two other seams that are five quilted lines left and right from the middle seam. Approximately four inches (4”) below the armor one of the seams deviates and is sewn on the face of the sixth quilted line until it disappears under the armor. This creates the look of the fractional quilted line looking like the letter “V”. The left and right seams should meet the bottom of the chest armor on the inside edges of the raised black stripes on the chest armor on both sides.

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	Gloves The gloves are black leather (or leather-like material) and mid-forearm length. The upper surface has sewn lines spaced approximately one inch (1") apart which run parallel to the arm and start just behind the knuckles towards the fingers. The palm side has no sewn lines. Additional View 1, Additional View 2.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The gloves should be made of leather (more specifically, it should match the leather of the body suit). The gloves should flare out at the end opening on the outside (little finger side), but not on the inside (thumb side). There should be six rectangular sections created by the sewn lines on the upper surface; they are not of uniform width (the outer sections are smaller than the middle sections).
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The sewn lines should be very finely stitched, and the upper surface should be padded minimally, if at all. The sewn lines in the flared section are stitched as a "V" turning the sixth (outermost) section into a "Y". The stitching on the gloves, with the exception of the sewn lines on the top of the glove, should be external. The top and bottom of the glove in the flared section should not be directly sewn together; an intermediate triangular section should adjoin them starting at the wrist bone. It should be approximately two inches (2") in width at the end opening of the glove. The seams on the fingers should be whip stitched.

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	Belt The belt is made of black leather (or leather-like material) and is approximately two and a quarter inches wide. The lightsaber hook is silver, metal, and held to the backside of the belt by two silver rivets (which are located towards the bottom of the belt). The lightsaber hook is mounted slightly forward of the wearer's left hip. The buckle is metal or metallic in appearance, and is slightly smaller than the belt boxes in terms of height. The base layer of the buckle is black and rectangular. The second layer is silver and in the shape of a horizontally elongated "D." There are five progressively smaller rectangular cutouts. The smallest cutout is a square. The top layer of the buckle consists of a silver circle located on the center of the arc of the "D." Allowed (but not recommended): The cutouts on the second layer of the buckle may have rounded edges. The smallest cutout may also be a circle.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt should be made of leather. The belt should have incised lines one eighth of an inch from the top and bottom. The base layer of the buckle should not be gloss black.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The belt should look aged, and the buckle should be weathered. The belt should have two metallic studs/bolts partially visible under the wearer's left of the belt buckle when viewed from the wearer's left side (not a prominent stud/bolt as seen on the ROTJ belt, as the buckle style used to close the belt must have changed from ANH/ESB to ROTJ).

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	Belt Boxes The belt boxes are black and centered vertically on the belt. Both belt boxes are approximately two inches (2”) from the edge of the buckle on both sides. The belt boxes mirror one another. Each belt box has, from the edge closest to the buckle: two opaque green rectangular light panels bordered by a small black slanted bezel. These green light panels are set above a half strip of braid-reinforced transparent hose inset in a rectangular cutout. A cylindrical opaque red light set in a very small chrome bezel. Six silver posts with smooth, not knurled, sides in two vertical columns of three. All lights are constantly lit. Allowed (but not recommended): The red light may be a small domed opaque light, and may also be set in very noticeable chrome bezel. The red light may also not contain any bezel at the base. The six silver posts may have knurled sides.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The belt boxes should be metal.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Depending on the scene in which they are viewed, the belt boxes can range from being unweathered to slightly weathered to extremely weathered. The belt box should be "tapered": the back face should be larger than the front face. Clarification: The chrome bezel is very thin and extends one-eighth to one-fourth the height of the red light, and therefore is barely noticeable when the red light is on, giving the illusion that it is not there.

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	Lightsaber The lightsaber should be a Master Replicas or custom built based on the MPP Microflash or the Heiland Synchronar 3-Cell flash handle to match the hilt used in ESB. The metal has a chrome appearance. The grips extend all the way to the middle section. A lever is not present on the box on the middle section. The side bars of the box on the middle section are black. There are connecting wires towards the top of the lightsaber. The lightsaber should only be required as long as it's in compliance with the applicant’s local laws.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The lightsaber should be capable of being belt worn with the emitter facing upwards (detachable blade or no blade). The lightsaber should be a 1:1 scale of the lightsaber used in the film.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The lightsaber should be slightly weathered.

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	Codpiece The codpiece is a padded-construction and faced in black leather (or leather-like material). It is worn over the bodysuit, directly below the belt, and under the inner robe. It covers the front of the groin area and extends to the hips. In its center, there is a slight rectangular inset with rounded corners that is edged with rolled piping.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The codpiece should be made of leather, have a wrinkled/worn appearance, and not be thicker than one inch. A piece of leather, or leather-like material, should seemingly emerge from the backside at mid-height and gradually become more noticeable as it becomes a "lip" connected to the bottom front of the codpiece.
	OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): The inset is countersunk a bit from the face. In other words, it isn’t flush with the face of the cod. The piping around the inset starts roughly 1/2 of the way up from the bottom of the inset on the wearer’s left and ends there also. The piping overlaps itself at that location.

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	Shin Guards The shin guards are gloss black. Each shin guard covers the leg from the ankle to the knee, and at least one half of the leg when viewed from the side. The knee is shaped like a cut diamond. Below the knee are six small square protrusions in a horizontal line (three on each side). On both sides of the raised area along the center, a long "U" shaped cutout starts at mid-armor height, and gradually increases in depth. The shin guards are attached by two straps that go around the boot. The shin guards should be pushed down to the top of the boot when worn correctly.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Both shin guards should slightly contour to each leg (right and left specific shin guards). The right shin guard is taller than the left. On both shin guards, the “U” shaped cutout on the wearer's left is longer.

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	Boots The boots are made of black leather (or leather-like material) with a satin shine and are lace-less. A gloss shine is also acceptable. They come to just below knee height, have a rounded toe, and a smooth textured appearance. Not a pebbled leather appearance. There is no noticeable zipper in full costume. A zipper in the back of the boot, or completely covered by the shin, is allowable if it cannot be seen in full suitup. The sole of the front does not exceed one inch (1") in thickness and the heel does not exceed two inches (2") in thickness. An aggressive, heavy tread or lug sole is not approvable. The sole should be "flat" when viewed from the side. Note: The strap/buckle at the top is not required; this area is covered in full costume and may or may not be there based on the style of boot.
	OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): The boots should be made of leather. The sole should not exceed one and one-half inches (1-1/2") in the heel or three-quarter of an inch (3/4") in the front. Internal lifts (if used) should not be noticeable.

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• This CRL is available as a PDF

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