What is retinol and is it worth buying?

Retinol is a popular anti-ageing ingredient in the world of skincare. But it's important to ensure you're using the right type of product, in the right way, to avoid wasting money or damaging your skin.

With prices ranging from just £2.49 to as much as £270 it pays to know if you really need to spend more, too.

We asked consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto and cosmetic chemist Dr Barbara Olioso of The Green Chemist consultancy to give us the lowdown to help you make the right decision for you.

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What does retinol do?

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family - a range of vitamin A compounds that are beneficial for skin, helping to:

• Reduce fine lines and wrinkles
• Reduce pigmentation and sun damage
• Clear pores and tackle acne
• Smooth and brighten skin 

It does this by stimulating collagen production and helping the skin to regenerate, increasing the turnover of cells.

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Does retinol really work?

Yes, it does. Scientific studies show that retinoids can reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation after 12 weeks of use.

As to when you should start using it (e.g preventatively or not), Dr Mahto says: 'The skin loses about 1% of collagen (a protein which gives skin its structural support) per year from your mid-twenties. Therefore starting a retinoid from your late 20s onwards is reasonable.'

Any younger is not necessary or recommended. In fact, experts have warned against children or teenagers using retinoid products. At this age you don't need anti-ageing products and because your skin is still developing retinol can cause redness and irritation.

Retinol can be beneficial in later years, even if the signs of ageing have already started. A 2024 pooled analysis of six controlled clinical studies looked at participants with an average age of 47.7 and mild to moderate signs of sun damage including wrinkles and found that using 0.1% retinol improved signs of photoaging with only a few reported cases of skin irritation.

When it comes to which products work best, spending lots doesn't guarantee that the product is any better than some cheaper ones, especially if they have the same active ingredients.

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Retinol vs retinoids: what's the difference and why it matters

Retinol is one type of retinoid - but there are several and they differ in their effectiveness.

The term is often used generically, but when you shop for 'retinol' you may actually be buying another type of retinoid or even a product containing several types of retinoid.

There's a hierarchy of retinoids that are categorised by how many steps it takes to convert them into active retinoic acid once they're applied to your skin, and therefore how potent they are. The fewer the steps, the stronger the formulation - and often the pricier the product.

• Retinoids that don't require conversion: retinoic acid, only available on prescription in the UK (such as tretinoin or Roaccutane) used for conditions including acne
• Retinoids that convert in one step: retinal/retinaldehyde and retinoic acid esters - often listed as granactive retinol, retinyl retinoate or hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR)
• Retinoids that convert in two steps: retinol
• Retinoids that convert in three steps: retinyl esters, such as retinyl palmitate (pro-retinol), retinyl acetate, retinyl linoleate and retinyl propionate

Retinoids that need little or no conversion can cause more skin irritation and redness than ones that converts in several steps, so if you're new to retinoids a product containing retinyl esters or retinol may be the most suitable. 

The same applies for the percentage of retinoid a product contains (they can range from 0.1% up to 5%) so start low and gradually increase the strength if your skin tolerates it.

The winter months are a good time to start using a retinoid product, especially in the UK, because they can cause increased sensitivity to the sun and in the UK winter UV levels are low. It is recommended to use high factor sunscreen to protect your skin if using retinol.

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Where to buy retinol

There are plenty of well-priced high street retinoid products, so you don't need to spend a fortune to get the benefits.

Most high street pharmacies, online beauty stores and even supermarkets stock retinoid products, including some great value own-brands. 

Here are some examples of cheaper retinoid products we found, starting with the less intense products:

Retinyl ester products

• Biovene Retinol Night Lift Tightening Cream with retinyl palmitate and retinol (£2.49 for 50ml, £4.98 per 100ml, B&M)
• Skin Saints Retinol Night Serum with retinyl palmitate and retinol (£4 for 50ml, £8 per 100ml, Tesco)
• Superdrug Optimum Retinol Day Cream with 0.3% retinyl palmitate (£14.99 for 75ml, £19.99 per 100ml, Superdrug) 
• Boots Ingredients Retinol Night Moisturiser with retinyl palmitate and retinol (£7 for 30ml, £23.33 per 100ml, Boots)
• Olay Regenerist Retinol 24 MAX Night Skin Cream with retinyl propionate and retinol (£22 for 50ml, £44 per 100ml, Boots)

Retinol products

• Sainsbury's My Skin Matters renewing night cream with retinol (£4.55 for 50ml, £9.10 per 100ml, Sainsbury's)
• Barber Pro Retinol night serum (£9 for 30ml, £30 per 100ml, Boots)
• Me+ Retinol Booster with 0.3% retinol (£9.99 for 30ml, £33.30 per 100ml, Superdrug)
• BeautyPro Retinol 1% overnight serum (£10 for 30ml, £33.30 per 100ml, Ocado)

Retinal/retinaldehyde/retanoic acid esters

• The Ordinary Granactive Retinoid 2% emulsion with granactive retinoid hydroxypinacolone retinoate and retinol (£11 for 30ml, £36.67 for 100ml, Boots)
• Q+A Retinol Facial Serum with hydroxypinacolone retinoate 0.2% (£12 for 30ml, £40 per 100ml, Sainsbury's)
• The Inkey List Retinol Serum with 0.5% granactive retinoid and 1% retinyl acetate (£14.40 for 30ml, £48 per 100ml, Boots)

*Prices and availability correct as of 16 April 2024.

Is encapsulated retinol worth it?

Retinol reacts with light and as it decomposes it can become unstable but with an encapsulated version (sometimes referred to as a 'retinol optimiser') the retinol is encased in a carrier system to protect it.

It also allows the active ingredient to be released slowly into the skin, meaning it can penetrate deeper. 

Dr Olioso tells us: 'Encapsulation keeps the retinol stable until it is applied to skin.' For example, CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol Serum for blemish-prone skin (£22.99 for 30ml, £76.63 per 100ml, Superdrug).

If you're sticking to standard retinol products, be sure to keep the product in a cool, dark place, out of direct sunlight, to help preserve it (the same applies to most beauty products).

Moisturising retinoid products 

Choose products that contain hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, squalane or ceramides to counteract any redness or skin irritation the retinol may cause.

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How to use retinol

Retinol and other retinoids need a little extra care to get the best out of them and to ensure they don't upset your skin. Here are our top tips on how to use them:

• Apply at night plus use sun protection. Retinol reacts with light so apply before bed and wear high SPF sun cream because it makes your skin more sensitive to sun damage. Take extra care in the summer and sunny climes.
• Build up use slowly. Start with a low percentage, applying once or twice a week at first, gradually building up to every other night and finally every night. 
• Expect some mild burning - but not too much. Some irritation, stinging and peeling skin are common side effects when starting retinoids, but if your skin is sore you should give the product a break. 
• See a doctor first if you have sensitive skin. The same applies if you have a condition such as eczema, rosacea or psoriasis.
• Take care around the eyes. A retinol product specifically for lines and wrinkles around the eyes is fine to use, but take care not to get it in your eyes.
• Avoid retinol if you're pregnant, breastfeeding or trying to conceive. Large amounts of vitamin A can harm your unborn baby, says the NHS. The risk is higher with oral high-dose retinoids, but it's best to avoid topical versions too.

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Retinol vs bakuchiol

In recent years, several plant-based alternatives to retinol have come on the market, including bakuchiol, which is derived from the babchi plant. Dr Olioso says: 'It has excellent efficacy data and is also light stable.'

A 2018 study in the British Journal of Dermatology, which pitted bakuchiol against retinol, found it was comparable in its ability to improve photoageing, making it a good option for those with sensitive skin.

Again, it's relatively widely available, and you can buy it for less than £8 - for example, Nature Spell 1% Bakuchiol Face Serum (£7.99 for 30ml, Superdrug) or Boots Botanics 1% Bakuchiol (£7.99 for 15ml, sometimes on offer for £3.99). 

Nivea also makes a bakuchiol serum - Nivea Cellular Lifting Serum, available at Superdrug (£24.99 for 30ml).

Is retinol vegan?

Although retinol is naturally found in animal products such as milk and cheese, retinoids used in cosmetic and skincare products tend to be synthetic because ones that occur naturally aren't stable enough for use in cosmetics.

However, if you need extra reassurance that your retinoid product is vegan, check with the manufacturer or The Vegan Society.

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Note: Products featured selected based on active ingredients listed, cheapest prices and high street availability in major retailers. Correct as of 16 April 2024.