Sycamore Sweater

SYCAMORE SWEATER
________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL
Bust circumference: 99 (104) 109 (113) 124 (134) 146 cm [39 (41) 43 (44½) 48¾ (52¾) 57½ inches]
Length: 57 (58) 60 (62) 64 (65) 66 cm [22½ (22¾) 23½ (24½) 25¼ (25½) 26 inches] (measured mid back
below the turtleneck collar)
Gauge: 16 sts x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in stockinette stitch on 5 mm [US8] needles
Needles: Circular needles: 5 mm [US8] / 60, 80 and/or 100 cm [24, 32 and/or 40 inches] and 4.5 mm [US7] /
80 and/or 100 cm [32 and/or 40 inches]; Double-pointed needles: 5 mm [US8] and 4.5 mm [US7]
Materials: Main color: 250 (250) 300 (300) 350 (350-400) 400 g Jensen Yarn by Isager Yarn (50 g = 125 m
[137 yds]) in color 0 held together with 75 (75) 100 (100) 100 (100-125) 125 g Silk Mohair by Isager
Yarn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) in color 6
Stripe color: 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (100) 100 g Spinni by Isager Yarn (50 g = 300 m [328 yds]) in color
39s held together with 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (100) 100 g Spinni by Isager Yarn (50 g = 300 m [328 yds])
in color 44 held together with 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 (100) 100 g Spinni by Isager Yarn (50 g = 300 m
[328 yds]) in color 61 (one strand of each color) held together with 25 (25-50) 50 (50) 50 (50) 50 g
Silk Mohair by Isager Yarn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) in color 33 (one strand)
PATTERN
The Sycamore Sweater is worked from the top down. The first section is worked back and forth on the
circular needle to shape the neckline, then the rest is worked in the round on the circular needles. The yoke
is shaped first by working shoulder increases from both the right side and the wrong side of the work while
working flat, then with increases for the sleeves, and finally with raglan increases. The sleeves are worked
in the round on double-pointed needles or on a circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. The
asymmetrical stripe pattern on the Sycamore Sweater is formed by working short rows, specifically using
the Japanese Short Row technique.
Size guide
The Sycamore Sweater is designed to have approx. 15 cm [6 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed
to be approx. 15 cm [6 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L)
XL (2XL) 3XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-120)
120-130 cm [30½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-51¼ inches].
The measurements for the finished garment are given on the first page of the pattern. Before beginning your
project, measure yourself to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm
[35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size S. A
size S sweater has a bust circumference of 104 cm [41 inches] which in the given example would give you
14 cm [5½ inches] of positive ease.
About increases
Increases are worked differently depending on the side they are supposed to lean towards (right or left).
They are worked as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
M1R: From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to
front, then knit this strand.
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to
back, then purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1L: From the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to
back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to
front, then purl this strand.
Yoke
The yoke is worked in stockinette stitch. The first section of the yoke is worked back and forth on the circular
needles while the neckline is being shaped. After this, the work is joined to continue in the round on the
circular needle. The yoke is constructed first with shoulder increases on both sides of 6 shoulder stitches,
then with sleeve increases and finally with classic raglan increases. The short row pattern is not started until
the raglan increases are being worked.
2
You will have a lot of stitch markers to keep track of – for this reason I recommend using stitch markers of
one color to mark the increases and stitch markers of another color to mark the short rows.
Cast on 37 (38) 39 (40) 41 (42) 42 sts on a 5 mm [US8] / 60 cm [24 inches] circular needle. Do not join to knit
in the round, as the yoke is started to be knit flat. Change to a longer circular needle along the way (80 or
100 cm [32 or 40 inches]) to accommodate the growing number of sts.
Purl across 1 row. The next row is a RS row.
Mark the shoulder sts by placing markers on both sides of them as follows:
1 stitch (left front), place Marker 1, 6 sts (left shoulder), place Marker 2, 23 (24) 25 (26) 27 (28) 28 sts (back),
place Marker 3, 6 sts (right shoulder), place Marker 4, 1 stitch (right front).
Shoulder increases
Now work back and forth in stockinette stitch while working shoulder increases on both RS and WS rows
as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, knit across shoulder sts, slip Marker 2, M1L, knit to
Marker 3, M1R, slip Marker 3, knit across shoulder sts, slip Marker 4, M1L, knit to end of row.
(4 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker 4, purl across shoulder sts, slip Marker 3, M1L, purl to
Marker 2, M1R, slip Marker 2, purl across shoulder sts, slip Marker 1, M1L, purl to end of
row. (4 sts have been increased)
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 6 times (i.e. work 6 RS rows and 6 WS rows). There are now a total of 85 (86)
87 (88) 89 (90) 90 sts on the needles. The next row is a RS row.
Distribution of sts:
13 sts (left front), Marker 1, 6 sts (left shoulder), Marker 2, 47 (48) 49 (50) 51 (52) 52 sts (back), Marker 3,
6 sts (right shoulder), Marker 4, 13 sts (right front).
Now work shoulder increases on both RS and WS rows as established, while also working increases at the
beginning and end of every RS row to shape the neckline. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to Marker 1, M1R, slip Marker 1, knit across shoulder sts, slip Marker 2, M1L,
knit to Marker 3, M1R, slip Marker 3, knit across shoulder sts, slip Marker 4, M1L, knit to the
last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (6 sts have been increased).
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker 4, purl across shoulder sts, slip Marker 3, M1L, purl to
Marker 2, M1R, slip Marker 2, purl across shoulder sts, slip Marker 1, M1L, purl to end of
row. (4 sts have been increased)
3
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 1 (1) 1 (2) 3 (3) 4 times (i.e. work 1 (1) 1 (2) 3 (3) 4 RS rows and 1 (1) 1 (2) 3 (3)
4 WS rows). There are now a total of 95 (96) 97 (108) 119 (120) 130 sts on the needles.
The next row is a RS row.
A total of 14 (14) 14 (16) 18 (18) 20 rows with shoulder increases have now been worked and the distribution
of sts is as follows:
16 (16) 16 (19) 22 (22) 25 sts (left front), Marker 1, 6 sts (left shoulder), Marker 2, 51 (52) 53 (58) 63 (64) 68
sts (back), Marker 3, 6 sts (right shoulder), Marker 4, 16 (16) 16 (19) 22 (22) 25 sts (right front).
Sleeve increases
The shoulder increases have been completed. However, the number of sts on the sleeves now needs to be
increased and the 6 shoulder sts are renamed sleeve sts. Increases are still worked at the beginning and
end of every RS row to shape the neckline. Please note: The sleeve increases are worked “on the other side
of the markers” now, towards the shoulder sts, which have become sleeve sts now, and they are only
worked on every other row (RS rows). Also note that the number of sts on the back remains constant.
Leave the markers (Marker 1-4) on the needle.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K3, M1L, knit to Marker 1, slip Marker 1, M1L, knit across sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 2,
knit to Marker 3, slip Marker 3, M1L, knit across sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 4, knit to the
last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3. (6 sts have been increased)
Row 2 (WS): Purl across.
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 2 (2) 4 (3) 2 (2) 1 times. There are now a total of 107 (108) 121 (126) 131 (132)
136 sts on the needles. A total of 3 (3) 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 rows with increases for the neckline have now been
worked. The next row is a RS row.
18 (18) 20 (22) 24 (24) 26 sts (left front), Marker 1, 10 (10) 14 (12) 10 (10) 8 sts (left sleeve), Marker 2, 51 (52)
53 (58) 63 (64) 68 sts (back), Marker 3, 10 (10) 14 (12) 10 (10) 8 sts (right sleeve), Marker 4, 18 (18) 20 (22) 24
(24) 26 sts (right front).
Join the work in the round on the next row, and continue to knit in the round from the right side as follows:
K3, M1L, knit to Marker 1, slip Marker 1, M1L, knit across sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 2, knit to Marker 3,
slip Marker 3, M1L, knit across sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 4, knit to the last 3 sts on the needle, M1R, k3,
cast on 13 (14) 11 (12) 13 (14) 14 new sts in extension of the sts on the needle using the backward loop
method. (6 sts have been increased and 13 (14) 11 (12) 13 (14) 14 backward loop sts have been cast on)
Join the work in the round and knit to Marker 1 at the left sleeve. Marker 1 now marks the beginning of the
round.
4
There are now a total of 126 (128) 138 (144) 150 (152) 156 sts on the needles.
Marker 1, 12 (12) 16 (14) 12 (12) 10 sts (left sleeve), Marker 2, 51 (52) 53 (58) 63 (64) 68 sts (back), Marker 3,
12 (12) 16 (14) 12 (12) 10 sts (right sleeve), Marker 4, 51 (52) 53 (58) 63 (64) 68 sts (front).
Knit across 1 round.
Continue in the round on the circular needles while working sleeve increases on every other round as
follows:
Round 1: Slip Marker 1, M1L, knit across left sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 2, knit to Marker 3, slip
Marker 3, M1L, knit across right sleeve sts, M1R, slip Marker 4, knit across front to beginning
of round. (4 sts have been increased)
Round 2: Knit across.
Work Rounds 1 and 2 a total of 8 (7) 4 (8) 9 (7) 6 times. There are now a total of 158 (156) 154 (176) 186
(180) 180 sts on the needles.
Raglan increases and pattern

Raglan increases are worked on the last section of the yoke, meaning increases on both the body and the
sleeves are now worked on every other round. At the same time, the stripe pattern on the sweater is started,
which is formed using short rows. For this pattern the Japanese short row technique is used, see video at
www.petiteknit.com. The Japanese short row technique has the advantage that the turn itself is almost
invisible on the surface of the work. It also has the advantage that you use removable markers (here called
SR markers) to mark a loop of yarn, and these markers are easy to use as guides while you are knitting. On
the following row the marked loop of yarn is worked together with its neighboring stitch, to close the hole
that the turn would otherwise create (see video at www.petiteknit.com for details). For each short row that
is worked in the main color, a short row must also be worked in the stripe color to balance it out – this way
the number of rows in the work remains the same across the whole round. All short rows are described in
detail in the pattern.
The first pattern stripe is started on the first round with raglan increases, and the first part of it is worked in
the main color. Afterwards these short rows need to be balanced by short rows worked in the stripe color.
Please note that the pattern distinguishes between SR markers on the needle and SR markers on loops.
Start at the beginning of the round (at Marker 1) and work as follows:
5
Row 1 (RS): Slip Marker 1, M1L, knit to Marker 2, M1R, slip Marker 2, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts before Marker
3, M1R, k2, slip Marker 3, M1L, knit to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker 4, k2, M1L, knit 42 (43)
43 (47) 51 (51) 54 sts, turn and place SR marker around working yarn (7 sts have been
increased). There are now a total of 165 (163) 161 (183) 193 (187) 187 sts on the needles.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker 3 and purl 49 (50) 50 (54) 58 (59) 61 more sts, turn and place SR marker around
working yarn.
Row 3 (RS): * Knit to 2 sts before Marker 3, M1R, k2, slip Marker 3, M1L, knit to Marker 4, M1R, slip
Marker 4, k2, M1L *, knit 28 (28) 29 (31) 34 (34) 36 sts, turn and place SR marker around
working yarn (4 sts have been increased). There are now a total of 169 (167) 165 (187) 197
working yarn.
Row 5 (RS): Work from * to * as described for Row 3, knit 10 (10) 10 (12) 13 (13) 14 sts, turn and place SR
marker around working yarn (4 sts have been increased). There are now a total of 173 (171)
169 (191) 201 (195) 195 sts on the needles.
working yarn.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to 2 sts before Marker 3, M1R, k2, slip Marker 3, M1L, knit to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker
4, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts before Marker 1, M1R, k2, while the three SR markers on loops are
removed from their loops and placed on the needle along the way (after the loop has been
worked together with the neighboring stitch) to mark the placement of the balancing short
rows in the stripe color (see video at www.petiteknit.com). (5 sts have been increased). There
are now a total of 178 (176) 174 (196) 206 (200) 200 sts on the needles.
Break the yarn and slip sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to 5 sts before Marker 3,
turn the work so the next row can be worked from the WS.
Now work short rows in the stripe color to balance out the short rows in the main color, so the work will
once again have the same number of rows all the way around. Please note that the following section
distinguishes between SR markers on the needle and SR markers on loops.
Join the stripe color and work from the WS as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Purl to the first SR marker on the needle (i.e. after Marker 2 and Marker 1), while the three SR
markers that are on loops are removed from their loops and placed on the needle along the
way (after the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), turn and place SR
marker around working yarn.
2, k2, M1L, knit to SR marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn
(4 sts have been increased). There are now a total of 182 (180) 178 (200) 210 (204) 204 sts on
the needles.
6
Row 3 (WS): Purl to SR marker on the needle (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop
has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), turn and place SR marker around
working yarn.
Row 4 (RS): Work as Row 2 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
together with the neighboring stitch). There are now a total of 186 (184) 182 (204) 214 (208)
208 sts on the needles.
Row 5 (WS): Work as Row 3.
together with the neighboring stitch). There are now a total of 190 (188) 186 (208) 218 (212)
212 sts on the needle.
The balancing short rows have now been completed.
Continue in the stripe color, while working more short rows that will be balanced by short rows in the main
color afterwards. Work as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Purl to Marker 1 and purl 50 (51) 52 (55) 59 (60) 63 more sts (remove SR markers on loops
along the way after the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), turn and
place SR marker around working yarn.
Row 2 (RS): * Knit to 2 sts before Marker 1, M1R, k2, slip Marker 1, M1L, knit to Marker 2, M1R, slip
Marker 2, k2, M1L *, knit 48 (49) 49 (53) 57 (58) 61 sts (remove SR markers on loops along
the way after the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), turn and place
SR marker around working yarn (4 sts have been increased). There are now a total of 194
(192) 190 (212) 222 (216) 216 sts on the needles.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (WS): Purl to Marker 1 and purl 57 (58) 59 (63) 67 (68) 72 more sts, while the three SR markers that
are on loops are placed on the needle along the way, do not turn the work.
Break the yarn and join the main color. Purl until you get to the stripe color again approx. immediately after
Marker 3. Break the yarn. Slip sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) until Marker 1.
7
Turn the work and join the main color. Please note that the following section distinguishes between SR
markers on the needle and SR markers on loops.
Now work short rows in the main color to balance out the short rows in the stripe color. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Slip Marker 1, M1L, knit to Marker 2, M1R, slip Marker 2, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts before Marker
3 (while the three SR markers that are on loops are placed on the needle along the way),
M1R, k2, slip Marker 3ind, M1L, knit to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker 4, k2, M1L, knit to SR
marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn. (7 sts have been
increased). There are now a total of 209 (207) 205 (227) 237 (231) 231 sts on the needles.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to SR marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
4, k2, M1L, knit to SR marker on the needle remove SR markers on loops along the way after
the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), turn and place SR marker
around working yarn (4 sts have been increased). There are now a total of 213 (211) 209 (231)
241 (235) 235 sts on the needles.
working yarn.
Row 5 (RS): Work as Row 3. There are now a total of 217 (215) 213 (235) 245 (239) 239 sts on the needles.
Row 6 (WS): Work as Row 4.
4, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts before Marker 1 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after
the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch), M1R, k2. (5 sts have been
increased)
A total of 8 raglan increases have now been worked at Marker 1, Marker 2, Marker 3 and Marker 4, and
there are a total of 222 (220) 218 (240) 250 (244) 244 sts on the needles.
Knit across 1 round, while the last SR markers on loops are removed along the way. Please note that you
will meet the SR marker from the opposite direction rather than the previous SR markers. See video at
www.petiteknit.com.
The pattern on the yoke has now been completed (and the hardest part of this pattern is now finished –
congratulations!). The rest of the yoke is worked in the main color.
8
Continue in the main color with raglan increases on every other round starting at Marker 1 as follows:
Round 1: Slip Marker 1, M1L, knit to Marker 2, M1R, slip Marker 2, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts before Marker
3, M1R, k2, slip Marker 3, M1L, knit to Marker 4, M1R, slip Marker 4, k2, M1L, knit to 2 sts
before Marker 1, M1R, k2. (8 sts have been increased)
Round 2: Knit across.
Work Rounds 1 and 2 a total of 3 (4) 6 (4) 5 (7) 9 times. There are now a total of 246 (252) 266 (272) 290
Marker 1, 50 (50) 52 (54) 56 (56) 56 sts (left sleeve), Marker 2, 73 (76) 81 (82) 89 (94) 102 sts (back), Marker
3, 50 (50) 52 (54) 56 (56) 56 sts (right sleeve), Marker 4, 73 (76) 81 (82) 89 (94) 102 sts (front).
Body
The body is worked in the round on a 5 mm [US8] / 80 or 100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needle. Starting
at Marker 1, divide the sts for sleeve and body while casting on sts at the underarms. Remove Marker 1 to
Marker 4 at the same time and place a marker for the beginning of the round (Marker 0). Work as follows:
Round 1: Remove Marker 1, place 50 (50) 52 (54) 56 (56) 56 sts on a stitch holder (left sleeve), cast on
6 (6) 6 (8) 10 (12) 12 sts for the underarm using the backward loop method, remove Marker
2, knit 73 (76) 81 (82) 89 (94) 102 sts (back), remove Marker 3, place 50 (50) 52 (54) 56 (56) 56
sts on a stitch holder (right sleeve), cast on 6 (6) 6 (8) 10 (12) 12 sts for the underarm using
the backward loop method, remove Marker 4, knit 73 (76) 81 (82) 89 (94) 102 sts (front).
There are now 158 (164) 174 (180) 198 (212) 228 sts on the needle for the body. Place a marker in the middle
of the new sts for the left underarm (Marker 0) to mark the beginning of the round. Place a second marker
in the middle of the new sts for the right underarm (Marker R).
Work 3 (3) 3 (5) 3 (3) 3 rounds in stockinette stitch.
Now work pattern stripes on the body, and as opposed to the stripes on the yoke the pattern stripes go all
the way around the body.
Start at Marker 0 and work short rows in the main color as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 56 (58) 62 (65) 72 (77) 83 sts, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to Marker 0 and knit 36 (37) 40 (42) 47 (50) 54 more sts, turn and place SR marker around
working yarn.
9
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to Marker R, while the three SR markers on loops are removed from their loops and
placed on the needle along the way (after the loop has been worked together with the
neighboring stitch) to mark the placement of the balancing short rows in the stripe color. Do
not turn the work.
Break the yarn and slip the sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to Marker 0. Turn the
work and join stripe color. Please note that the following section distinguishes between SR markers on the
needle and SR markers on loops.
Start from the WS and work as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Purl to first SR marker on the needle, while the three SR markers that are on loops are
removed from their loops and placed on the needle along the way to mark the placement of
the following short rows, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
Row 2 (RS): Knit to SR marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 4 (RS): Knit to SR marker on the needle (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop
working yarn.
Row 5 (WS): Work as Row 3 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
together with the neighboring stitch).
Row 7 (WS): Purl to Marker 0 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
Break the yarn and slip sts from the left to the right needle without knitting them to Marker R.
Turn the work to work from the RS and work 7 rounds in stockinette stitch with the stripe color (remove SR
markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch).
10
You are now at Marker R. Work short rows with the stripe color from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 63 (66) 70 (73) 80 (86) 93 sts (i.e. until there are 16 (16) 17 (17) 19 (20) 21 sts left on the
round), turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker R and purl 63 (66) 70 (73) 80 (86) 93 more sts (i.e. until there are 16 (16) 17 (17)
19 (20) 21 sts left on the round), turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
Row 3 (RS): Knit to Marker R and knit 45 (47) 50 (52) 57 (61) 66 more sts, turn and place SR marker around
working yarn.
Row 4 (WS): Purl to Marker R and purl 45 (47) 50 (52) 57 (61) 66 more sts, turn and place SR marker around
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to Marker 0, while the three SR markers that are on loops are removed from their loops
and placed on the needle along the way to mark the placement of the following short rows.
Break the yarn and slip the sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to Marker R.
Turn the work to work from the WS. Please note that the following section distinguishes between SR markers
on the needle and SR markers on loops. Change to the main color and work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Purl to Marker 0, while the three SR markers that are on loops are removed from their loops
and placed on the needle along the way to mark the placement of the following short rows,
purl to SR marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (WS): Purl to Marker R (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
together with the neighboring stitch), do not turn the work.
work to work from the RS.
11
Work in the round in the main color starting at Marker 0 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after
the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch) until the sweater measures 40 (41) 42 (44)
47 (47) 48 cm [15¾ (16¼) 16½ (17¼) 18½ (18½) 19 inches] mid back from the cast on edge at the back of
the neck.
Now work the final pattern stripe on the body. Work in the main color from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit to Marker R and knit 68 (70) 74 (76) 82 (87) 93 more sts (i.e. until there are 11 (12) 13 (14)
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker R and purl 64 (66) 70 (72) 78 (83) 89 more sts (i.e. until there are 15 (16) 17 (18)
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to Marker 0, while the three SR markers that are on loops are removed from their loops
do not turn the work.
Break the yarn and slip the sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to Marker R. Turn the
work and join the stripe color. Please note that the following section distinguishes between SR markers on
the needle and SR markers on loops.
Work from the WS as follows:

Row 1 (WS): Purl to first SR marker on the needle, while the three SR markers that are on loops are
removed from their loops and placed on the needle along the way to mark the placement of
the following short rows, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
12
Row 7 (WS): Purl to Marker R (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
work to work from the RS and work 9 rounds in the stripe color in stockinette stitch (remove SR markers on
loops along the way after the loop has been worked together with the neighboring stitch).
You are now at Marker 0. Work short rows in the stripe color from the RS as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit 59 (62) 66 (69) 76 (82) 88 sts (i.e. until there are 20 (20) 21 (21) 23 (24) 26 sts left before
Marker R), turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
Row 2 (WS): Purl to Marker 0 and purl 49 (52) 56 (59) 66 (72) 78 sts (i.e. until there are 30 (30) 31 (31) 33
(34) 36 sts left before Marker R), turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
Row 7 (RS): Knit to Marker R, while the three SR markers that are on loops are removed from their loops
and placed on the needle along the way to mark the placement of the following short rows.
Break the yarn and slip the sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to Marker 0.
Turn the work to work from the WS. Please note that the following section distinguishes between SR markers
on the needle and SR markers on loops. Change to the main color and work short rows as follows:
Row 1 (WS): Purl to Marker R, while the three SR markers that are on loops are removed from their loops
purl to SR marker on the needle, turn and place SR marker around working yarn.
working yarn.
working yarn.
13
Row 7 (WS): Purl to Marker 0 (remove SR markers on loops along the way after the loop has been worked
together with the neighboring stitch), do not turn the work.
Break the yarn and slip the sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them) to Marker R. Turn the
work to work from the RS.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch from the RS until the sweater measures 49 (50) 52 (54) 56 (57) 58 cm
[19¼ (19¾) 20½ (21¼) 22 (22½) 22¾ inches] mid back from the cast on edge at the back of the neck. The
beginning of the round is still at Marker 0.
Change to a 4.5 mm [US7] / 80 cm [32 inches] circular needle and work 8 cm [2¼ inches] in the round in
1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).
Work 2 rounds in double knitting as follows:

Round 1: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the back, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Bind off using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).
Sleeves
The sleeves are worked in the round on either 5 mm [US8] double-pointed needles or on a 5 mm [US8]
circular needle using the Magic Loop technique. Please note that there are no short rows on the sleeves.
Place the 50 (50) 52 (54) 56 (56) 56 resting sleeve sts on a 5 mm [US8] needle. Pick up and knit 6 (6) 6 (8) 10
(12) 12 sts in the 6 (6) 6 (8) 10 (12) 12 sts that were cast on at the underarm on the body. There are now a
total of 56 (56) 58 (62) 66 (68) 68 sts on the needle (see video at www.petiteknit.com). Place a marker for
the beginning of the round in the middle of these 6 (6) 6 (8) 10 (12) 12 sts.
Work in the round in stockinette stitch until the sleeve measures 36 (36) 36 (37) 37 (36) 36 cm [14¼ (14¼)
14¼ (14½) 14½ (14¼) 14¼ inches], while at the same time working decreases every 12th (12th) 12th (9th)
8th (7th) 8th round a total of 7 (7) 7 (9) 10 (11) 10 times by working a decrease round as follows: K1, K2tog,
knit to the last 3 sts of the round, k2tog through the back loops, k1. There are now a total of 42 (42) 44 (44)
46 (46) 48 sts on the needles. At the same time working the sleeve in stripes (without short rows), matching
exactly where the color changes on the body. Count the rounds, so the color changes are the same on the
body and the sleeves.
14
Change to a 4.5 mm [US7] needle and work 8 cm [2¼ inches] in the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).
Work 2 rounds in double knitting the same as on the body and bind off using the Italian bind off technique.
Work the other sleeve identically, matching the color stripes with the corresponding side of the body.
Neck edge
The neck edge is worked in the round on a 4.5 mm [US7] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle.
Pick up and knit approx. 90 (92) 94 (96) 98 (100) 102 sts from the RS along the neck edge with a 4.5 mm
[US7] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle. This is approx. equivalent to picking up 1 stitch in every stitch all
the way around the neck opening.
Work 19 cm [7½ inches] in the round in 1 x 1 rib (k1, p1).
Work 2 rounds in double knitting as follows:

Round 1: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the front *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn held in the back, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Bind off using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).
Finishing
Weave in all ends.
15
Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together
M1R from the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back
to front, then knit this strand.
from the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front
to back, then purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1L from the RS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front
to back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
From the WS: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from
back to front, then purl this strand.
p purl
RS right side of your work
SR marker Short Row marker
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work
Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2022
www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or
redistributed in any way. Nor may you sell any items produced using the directions in this pattern.
Share your version of the Sycamore Sweater on Instagram with
#sycamoresweater #petiteknit
Happy knitting!

Sycamore Sweater

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Sycamore Sweater

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SYCAMORE SWEATER

Purl across 1 row. The next row is a RS row.

Knit across 1 round.

Raglan increases and pattern

Join the stripe color and work from the WS as follows:

The balancing short rows have now been completed.

Work 3 (3) 3 (5) 3 (3) 3 rounds in stockinette stitch.

Start from the WS and work as follows:

Work from the WS as follows:

Work 2 rounds in double knitting as follows:

Work 2 rounds in double knitting as follows:

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