INGRID SLIPOVER

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Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL (2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL
Bust circumference: 104 (108) 116 (120) 128 (140) 148 (156) 168 cm [41 (42½) 45¾ (47¼) 50½ (55) 58¼ (61½) 66¼ inches]
Length: 54 (55) 57 (59) 60 (63) 64 (67) 68 cm [21¼ (21¾) 22½ (23¼) 23½ (24¾) 25¼ (26½) 26¾ inches] (excl.
neck edge)
Gauge: 20 sts x 30 rows = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches] in texture pattern on 4 mm [US6] needles after wash and
blocking
Needles: Circular needles: 4 mm [US6] / 40, 60, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 24, 32 and/or 40 inches], 3 mm [US2½]
/ 40 cm [16 inches] and 3.5 mm [US4] / 40, 80 and/or 100 cm [16, 32 and/or 40 inches]
Materials: Suggestion 1: 250-300 (300) 350 (350-400) 400 (450) 450-500 (500) 500-550 g Jensen by Isager Yarn
(50 g = 125 m [137 yds]) or 300 (350) 400 (450) 450-500 (500) 500 (550) 550-600 g Pura Lana by
Gepard Garn (50 g = 115 m [126 yds]) or 300 (300) 300-400 (400) 400 (400) 400-500 (500) 500 g
Pelsuld 5,5/2 by Hjelholts Uldspinderi (100 g = 275 m [301 yds]) held together with 75 (100) 100
(100-125) 125 (125) 125-150 (150) 150 g Silk Mohair by Isager Yarn (25 g = 212 m [232 yds]) or Soft
Silk Mohair by Knitting for Olive (25 g = 225 m [246 yds]) or Brushed Lace fra Mohair by Canard
(25 g = 210 m [232 yds])
Suggestion 2: 400 (450) 500 (550) 550-600 (600) 700 (700) 700-750 g Peer Gynt fra Sandnes Garn
(50 g = 91 m [98 yds])
 PATTERN
The Ingrid Slipover is worked from the top down in a knit and purl texture pattern. First, the back yoke is
worked back and forth and the sloping shoulders are shaped using short rows. Then stitches are picked up
and knitted for the shoulders, which are worked separately and then joined to form the front yoke. The front
and back yoke are joined at the underarms to form the body, which is worked straight down in the round.
Rib edges are worked along the armhole openings and at the neck. The Ingrid Slipover is worked in a texture
pattern, which consists of three different pattern sections, each one separated by an eyelet section.
Begin by knitting a swatch to determine which needle size you need to achieve the correct gauge before
starting the project – note that the gauge needs to be correct both in width and height, for you to be able to
achieve the measurements given at the top of the pattern.

Size guide
The Ingrid Slipover is designed to have approx. 20 cm [8 inches] of positive ease, meaning it is designed to
be approx. 20 cm [8 inches] larger in circumference than your bust measurement. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL
(2XL) 3XL (4XL) 5XL are designed to fit a bust circumference of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-100) 100-110 (110-
120) 120-130 (130-140) 140-150 cm [30½-33½ (33½-35½) 35½-37½ (37½-39½) 39½-43¼ (43¼-47¼) 47¼-
51¼ (51¼-55) 55-59 inches].
The measurements for the finished garment are given on the first page of the pattern. Before beginning your
project, measure yourself to determine which size will fit you the best. For example, if you measure 90 cm
[35½ inches] around your bust (or around the widest part on your upper body) you should knit a size S. A
size S slipover has a bust circumference of 108 cm [42½ inches] which in the given example would give you
18 cm [7 inches] of positive ease.

Increases
Increases are worked so the resulting stitch is either a knit stitch or a purl stitch that slants either to the right
or to the left. The increases are worked as follows:
M1Lk: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit
this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1Rk: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit
this strand.
M1Lp: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then purl
this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1Rp: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then purl
this strand.

About the charts

The charts for the texture pattern can be found at the end of the pattern. The texture pattern consists of
three different texture sections (double moss stitch, a cross pattern and double rib) and an eyelet pattern is
worked between each section. No selvedge stitches are worked.
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The key for the chart symbols can be found on page 10. The chart is read from the bottom up, and from left
to right on WS rows and from right to left on RS rows.
The stitches inside the bolded square of each chart are the pattern repeat. The pattern repeat is repeated
as many times per round as the number of stitches allows.

Mock cables
The mock cables can either slant right (RC, right cross) or slant left (LC, left cross). They are worked without
the need of an accessory cable needle as follows:
RC: Knit 2 stitches together without lifting the stitches off the left needles, knit the first stitch on the
needle once more, then let both stitches fall off the left needle.
LC: Knit the second stitch on the needle through the back loop without lifting stitches off the left
needle, knit the first two stitches together through the back loops, then let both stitches fall off
the left needle.

Double moss stitch

The first part of the shoulder is worked in double moss stitch with short rows. and the part with short rows
is not shown in the chart but is written in the pattern below instead. You will need to follow the written
instructions and refer to the charts when necessary. Double moss stitch is worked as follows:
Row 1: * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2: Work as Row 1.
Row 3: * P1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4: Work as Row 3.

Repeat Row 1-4.

Back yoke
The first section is worked back and forth in double moss stitch. Short rows are worked to shape the back
yoke. Use the German Short Row technique when turning, i.e. when the pattern says ‟turn” (see video at
www.petiteknit.com).
Work as follows:
Cast on 88 (88) 96 (96) 104 (104) 112 (112) 120 sts on a 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular
needle with your preferred method.
Break the yarn.

Slip the first 28 (28) 32 (32) 36 (36) 40 (40) 44 sts from the left to the right needle (without knitting them).

Join new yarn and purl 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 (32) 32 sts until there are 28 (28) 32 (32) 36 (36) 40 (40) 44
sts left on the needle, turn.
The next row is a RS row.

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Row 1 (RS): * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * until there are 26 (26) 30 (30) 34 (34) 38 (38) 42 m left on the
needle, turn.
Row 2 (WS): Work the sts as they present until there are 26 (26) 30 (30) 34 (34) 38 (38) 42 m left on the
needle, turn.
The next row is a RS row.

Continue working back and forth in double moss stitch, while working short rows to shape the back yoke,
as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work in pattern to 2 sts after the last RS turn (meaning you work the short row stitch from
the previous RS row and then knit the next 2 sts), turn.
Row 2 (WS): Work in pattern to 2 sts after the last WS turn, turn.

Work Row 1 and 2 a total of 12 (12) 14 (14) 16 (16) 18 (18) 20 times (at the last turn there are 2 sts left on
the left needle). The next row is a RS row.

The short rows have now been completed and you now work back and forth across all sts.

Work 2 rows in double moss stitch as the pattern dictates. The next row is a RS row.

The rest of the back yoke is worked back and forth in the texture pattern as Chart for back yoke on page
10 dictates.
When all the increases have been worked there are 104 (104) 112 (112) 120 (128) 136 (144) 152 sts on the
back yoke.

Break the yarn and let the sts rest, while the shoulders and the front yoke are worked.

Left shoulder
Pick up and knit the 28 (28) 32 (32) 36 (36) 40 (40) 44 sts furthest to the left along the back yoke cast on
edge. Pick up from the RS with a 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular needle and with the
short end of the yarn, so the first row can be worked from the RS. Pick up and knit between the sts on the
cast-on edge (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Work the eyelet pattern as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Purl across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): K1, * yarn over, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
(as if to bind off) *, repeat from * to * until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, k1.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.
Row 5 (RS): Purl across.
Row 6 (WS): Knit across.
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The next row is a RS row.

Now work back and forth in double moss stitch as follows:

Row 1 (RS): * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): Work as Row 1.
Row 3 (RS): * P1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 3.

Work Row 1-4 a total of 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 times (i.e. until 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 (20) 24 (24) 24 rows have
been worked.
The next row is a RS row.

Continue working back and forth in double moss stitch, while working increases for the neckline at the same
time. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): K1, M1Lk, work double moss stitch as the pattern dictates to end of row (1 stitch has
been increased).
Row 2 (WS): Work double moss stitch as the pattern dictates.

Work Row 1 and 2 a total of 6 times. There are now a total of 34 (34) 38 (38) 42 (42) 46 (46) 50 sts on the
needle.

Break the yarn and let the sts rest, while the right shoulder is being worked.

Right shoulder
Pick up and knit the 28 (28) 32 (32) 36 (36) 40 (40) 44 sts furthest to the right along the back yoke cast on
edge. Pick up from the RS with a 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular needle and with the
short end of the yarn, so the first row can be worked from the RS. Pick up and knit between the sts on the
cast-on edge (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Work the eyelet pattern as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Purl across.
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.
Row 3 (RS): K1 * yarn over, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch
(as if to bind off) *, repeat from * to * until there is 1 stitch left on the needle, k1.
Row 4 (WS): Purl across.
Row 5 (RS): Purl across.
Row 6 (WS): Knit across.
The next row is a RS row.

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Now work back and forth in double moss stitch as follows:
Row 1 (RS): * K1, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): Work as Row 1.
Row 3 (RS): * P1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 3.

Work Row 1-4 a total of 5 (5) 5 (5) 5 (5) 6 (6) 6 times (i.e. until 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 (20) 24 (24) 24 rows have
been worked.
The next row is a RS row.

Continue working back and forth in double moss stitch, while working increases for the neckline at the same
time. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work double moss stitch as the pattern dictates to the last stitch on the needle, M1Rp,
p1 (1 stitch has been increased).
Row 2 (WS): Work double moss stitch as the pattern dictates.

Work Row 1 and 2 a total of 6 times. There are now a total of 34 (34) 38 (38) 42 (42) 46 (46) 50 sts on the
needle.
Do not break the yarn, as the next follows from here.

Front yoke
Now join the right and left shoulder to form the front yoke, while casting on new sts between the two
shoulders for the neck.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Work double moss stitch as the pattern dictates across the right shoulder, cast on 20
(20) 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 (20) 20 new sts using the backward loop method for the neck, work
double moss stitch as the pattern dictates across the left shoulder.
Row 2 (WS): Work the sts as they present.

There are now a total of 88 (88) 96 (96) 104 (104) 112 (112) 120 sts on the needle.

Now work 2 (2) 6 (6) 10 (10) 10 (10) 14 rows in double moss stitch as the pattern dictates. Note that the
double moss stitch section on the front yoke is 8 rows longer than the one on the back yoke due to the
construction of the slipover.

Now work back and forth in texture pattern with increases as Chart for front yoke on page 11 and 12
dictates.
When all the increases have been worked there are 104 (104) 112 (112) 120 (128) 136 (144) 152 sts on the
front yoke.

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Body
Now join the front and back yoke to form the body and work the body in the round on a 4 mm [US6] / 80 or
100 cm [32 or 40 inches] circular needle.

Work as follows:
Work in double rib as the chart shows across the front yoke sts, cast on 0 (4) 4 (8) 8 (12) 12 (12) 16 sts in
extension of the front yoke sts using the backward loop method, work in double rib as the chart shows
across the back yoke sts, cast on 0 (4) 4 (8) 8 (12) 12 (12) 16 sts in extension of the back yoke sts using the
backward loop method. There are now a total of 208 (216) 232 (240) 256 (280) 296 (312) 336 sts on the
needle.
Join in the round and place a marker after the first 0 (3) 3 (5) 5 (7) 7 (7) 9 backward loop sts at the right
underarm to mark the beginning of the round.

Work the rest of the body as Chart for body on page 13-16 dictates. If you want a shorter or longer slipover,
the length can be adjusted on the last section in double rib.

Note that RC and LC in the cross pattern are worked across the beginning/end of the round on some rounds.
On these rounds, the last stitch of the previous round is “borrowed” to work the mock cable.

Finish by working 2 rounds in double knitting, before working an Italian bind off as follows (see video at
www.petiteknit.com):
Round 1: * Slip 1 purl-wise with yarn held in front of work, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 2: * P1, slip 1 purl-wise with yarn held in back of work *, repeat from * to * to end of round.

Bind off using the Italian bind off technique (see video at www.petiteknit.com).

Armhole rib edges

Pick up and knit 112 (114) 118 (122) 126 (142) 144 (158) 164 sts from the RS with a 3.5 mm [US4] / 40 cm [16
inches] circular needle along the armhole opening. This is the approx. equivalent to picking up and knitting 4
sts for every 5 rows.
Start and end at the bottom of the armhole.

Join in the round and place a marker for the beginning of the round.

Work 7 rounds in rib (k1, p1).

Finish by working 2 rounds in double knitting the same as for the body and bind off tightly using the Italian
bind-off technique.

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Neck edge
Instructions are given for two different neck edge: a standing neck edge with an eyelet pattern, and a folded
neck edge.
Pick up and knit 108 (108) 108 (108) 112 (112) 112 (112) 112 sts from the RS along the neck opening using
a 3 mm [US2½] / 40 cm [16 inches] circular needle. This is the approx. equivalent to picking up and knitting
3 sts for every 4 rows along the sides and 1 stitch in every stitch at the back of the neck and in the backward
loop sts mid front. Start and end mid back.

Neck edge with eyelet pattern is worked as follows:

Round 1-8: * K2, p2 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 9: * Yarn over, slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch (as if
to bind off) *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 10-18: * P1, k1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round (note that on the first round the yarn overs
from the previous round are purled)

Finish by working 2 rounds in double knitting the same as on the body and bind off tightly using the Italian
bind-off technique.

Folded neck edge is worked as follows:

Round 1-11: Work in rib (k1, p1).
Round 12: * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn held in front of work *, repeat from * to * to end of
round.
Round 13: * Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with yarn held behind work, p1 *, repeat from * to * to end of round.
Round 14-22: Work in rib (k1, p1).

Now the rib edge is folded double and knitted together by knitting every other stitch of the next round
together with a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted, while at the same time
binding off.
Work as follows (see video at www.petiteknit.com):
* Pick up a stitch from the round where stitches were picked up and knitted and place it on the left needle.
Knit the picked up stitch together with the first stitch on the left needle. Pass the second stitch on the right
needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). Knit 1 stitch. Pass the second stitch on
the right needle over the stitch that was just knitted (i.e. bind off the stitch). *
Repeat from * to * to the end of the round.

Take that the neck edge doesn’t become twisted – make sure to check along the way that each stitch is
knitted together with the stitch directly below it.

Weave in all ends.

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Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease, knit two stitches together
M1Lk: Make 1 Left knit-wise; Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches
from front to back, then knit this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1Lp: Make 1 Left purl-wise; Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches
from front to back, then purl this strand through the back loop (twisted).
M1Rk: Make 1 Right knit-wise; Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches
from back to front, then knit this strand.
M1Rp: Make 1 Right purl-wise; Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches
from back to front, then purl this strand.
p purl
p2tog decrease, purl two stitches together
RS right side of your work
skp slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work

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Chart for back yoke
All sizes

Work 2 (2) 2 (2) 2 (3) 3 (4)

4 times (i.e. for a total of
16 (16) 16 (16) 16 (24) 24
(32) 32 rows)

Work a total of 10 (10) 11 (11) 12 (12) 13 (13) 14 times

knit on RS, purl on WS

purl on RS, knit on WS

yarn over

slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch

RC

LC

M1Lk

M1Rk

M1Lp

M1Rp

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Chart for front yoke
Size XS, L, XL and 5XL

Work 2 (–) – (2) 2 (–) – (–)

4 times (i.e. for a total of
16 (–) – (16) 16 (–) – (–)
32 rows)

Work a total of 10 (–) – (11) 12 (–) – (–) 14 times

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Chart for front yoke
Size S, M, 2XL, 3XL and 4XL

Work –a (2)
total
2 (–)of – (2)
(3) 23
(4) times
(–) – (3) 3 (4)(i.e. for a
– times
total of – (16) 16 (–) –
(24) 24 (32) – rows)

Work a total of – (10) 11 (–) – (12) 13 (13) – times

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Chart for body
Size XS and 5XL

Work 9 times (i.e. for a total of 18 rounds)

Change to a 3.5 mm [US4] needle
Work 8 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) 11 times (i.e. for a
total of 16 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) 22 rounds)

Work 3,5 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) 4,5 times (i.e. for
a total of 14 (–) – (–) – (–) – (–) 18 rounds)

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Chart for body
Size S, M, 2XL and 3XL

Work 9 times (i.e. for a total of 18 rounds)

Change to a 3.5 mm [US4] needle
Work – (10) 10 (–) – (11) 11 (–) – times (i.e. for
a total of – (20) 20 (–) – (22) 22 (–) – rounds)

Work – (3,5) 4 (–) – (4,5) 4,5 (–) – times (i.e. for

a total of – (14) 16 (–) – (18) 18 (–) – rounds)

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Chart for body
Size L and XL
Work 9 times (i.e. for a total of 18 rounds)
Change to a 3.5 mm [US4] needle
Work – (–) – (11) 11 (–) – (–) – times (i.e. for a
total of – (–) – (22) 22 (–) – (–) – rounds)

Work – (–) – (4,5) 4,5 (–) – (–) – times (i.e. for

a total of – (–) – (18) 18 (–) – (–) – rounds)

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Chart for body
Size 4XL
Work 9 times (i.e. for a total of 18 rounds)
Change to a 3.5 mm [US4] needle
Work – (–) – (–) – (–) – (11) – times (i.e. for a
total of – (–) – (–) – (–) – (22) – rounds)

Work – (–) – (–) – (–) – (4,5) – times (i.e. for a

total of – (–) – (–) – (–) – (18) – rounds)

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